What's a typical range for CO in the flue (not CO2)? Beckett NX .60x60A at 145PSI. 4.1% O2 and 448degF I measure 1PPM CO. That seems really low CO, is that even possible? Testo 310. At trace smoke I get 7ppm.
If you are not getting unburned oil in the vent, you must be getting water. That would be condensate. If your vent temp is too low, water could be condensing from the fuel. GFM
why is the barametric damper mounted upside down? with that type of boiler it should be -0.02” WC over the fire. The whole purpose of this damper is to increase the contact time of the fire in the heat exchanger for better efficiency. now I have a pensotti and Riello and they run positive, which tooka bit of getting use to.
Didn’t you mean at the the fire/over fire -0.02 and in the pipe -0.04? Oil at the pipe before the barometric damper should be -0.04 or a bit higher and natural gas in the pipe before the draft hood should be -0.02 or a bit higher.
What is the make and model of the white probe instrument you use to determine the 0.02” WC over the fire and the 0.04” WC at the damper? Thank you for your time. Much appreciated.
@@grayfurnaceman Thank you so much for responding. I was a Union plumber for 10 yrs before the economy crashed in 08 but am now just getting into heating (forced hot air) and oil because that is what I have in my house. Your videos are so informative and easy to understand.
I see that you have drilled a hole in the exhaust pipe in order to insert your smoke tester. What do you do with the hole afterwards? I assume that you don't leave it open, as you don't want fumes in the boiler room. Please explain how you fiil or seal the hole afterwards.
You can use a bolt or piece of heat rated metal tape/foil tape. Some people use a glob of furnace cement or high temp silicone. The hole doesn’t need to be plugged, it’s not harming anything or pulling anything more in that the barometric damper is already. It won’t blow out unless the chimney is blocked, or the combustion of the furnace is to strong in the initial start. Occasionally if you have a severe down draft it could happen. Again the barometric damper will blow out more than a small hole so it shouldn’t be a concern at all. Usually the plug is more professionalism because customers are always concerned about a hole in their smoke pipe, so block it for your customers curiosity.
Thanks for the video. I have a question. I got my boiler in spec (co2, o2, EA, stack temp) Oil pressure is right on. My smoke test is still a #2. If I open up the air shutter any more, my numbers will start going out. Do you know what could cause this? The boiler was just cleaned and has a new nozzle.
If the burner is a flame retention type, you may have flame impingement on some part of the combustion chamber. Also be sure the gun depth is correct. GFM
When I took the burner off I found that the head was to big for the nozzle. I installed a smaller one (F3) and got the combustion in spec. I noticed shims on the bottom 2 studs where the burner mounts to the boiler. Have you even seen that? I was wondering what they're for.
Your videos are the best. Would you mind elaborating on how much you opened your air between smoke tests? Eighth inch? Quarter inch? Half inch? I assume you moved only fraction of an inch? I have AFG burner for a year 1990 Peerless WB-3 boiler gross output 129k BTU boiler. I don't have a manual for my boiler so I don't know what air settings should be. There's a sticker on the transformer that gives various air band/shutter settings for different models but my model isn't listed. The last technician did a smoke test but not a combustion analysis so I have no idea how efficient it is. He set air as follows: Air band (aka bulk or mass air) is open approx. 1/4". As in not closed per your statement. Air shutter (on side) is open about 1/3". I would like to understand the diff between air shutter and air band and when/why/how much to adjust each. What's your opinion on oil service contracts that also require customer to buy oil from them and only them at inflated prices? Why do they charge more for oil? I asked one company and their reason was you must use our oil because we know it's clean. I smelled a ripoff so I buy my oil from whomever I choose and I found my own service guy. Still looking for a service guy who knows what he's doing like you obviously do. Thanks!
+Matt Foley The movements of the air shutter are small. Try 1/8 inch to start. The air band is called the mass air damper for a reason. Those contracts are for those that want no surprises. It would be quite unusual for and oil company to deliver dirty oil. Hope this helps. GFM
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I enjoy these vids emensely... I need help with my burner...
Thank you for the informative vids.
Welcome
GFM
What's a typical range for CO in the flue (not CO2)? Beckett NX .60x60A at 145PSI. 4.1% O2 and 448degF I measure 1PPM CO. That seems really low CO, is that even possible? Testo 310. At trace smoke I get 7ppm.
Can you please explain to me why i sometimes get a wet spot on the paper while doing my smoke tests? its not oil i dont think and its not yellow .
If you are not getting unburned oil in the vent, you must be getting water. That would be condensate. If your vent temp is too low, water could be condensing from the fuel.
GFM
why is the barametric damper mounted upside down? with that type of boiler it should be -0.02” WC over the fire. The whole purpose of this damper is to increase the contact time of the fire in the heat exchanger for better efficiency. now I have a pensotti and Riello and they run positive, which tooka bit of getting use to.
I have used them both ways. They seem to work about the same. Maybe I should do a video on that.
GFM
Didn’t you mean at the the fire/over fire -0.02 and in the pipe -0.04? Oil at the pipe before the barometric damper should be -0.04 or a bit higher and natural gas in the pipe before the draft hood should be -0.02 or a bit higher.
What is the make and model of the white probe instrument you use to determine the 0.02” WC over the fire and the 0.04” WC at the damper? Thank you for your time. Much appreciated.
It s an electronic manometer. It is and its un branded from Ebay.
GFM
I bought mine on Ebay. It's made in China. It works really well and a great deal at only thirty or forty dollars.
@@grayfurnaceman is the atachment on your manometer hose just a piece of 1/4" copper?
@@MattMinistry Yes. The copper is there for the high temps in the vent.
GFM
@@grayfurnaceman Thank you so much for responding. I was a Union plumber for 10 yrs before the economy crashed in 08 but am now just getting into heating (forced hot air) and oil because that is what I have in my house. Your videos are so informative and easy to understand.
Isn't negative draft positive pressure ?
No, negative draft, negative pressure.
GFM
I see that you have drilled a hole in the exhaust pipe in order to insert your smoke tester. What do you do with the hole afterwards? I assume that you don't leave it open, as you don't want fumes in the boiler room. Please explain how you fiil or seal the hole afterwards.
the pressure is negative so it will not smoke:D
Wind a bolt into the hole with some gasket seal on it
You can use a bolt or piece of heat rated metal tape/foil tape. Some people use a glob of furnace cement or high temp silicone. The hole doesn’t need to be plugged, it’s not harming anything or pulling anything more in that the barometric damper is already. It won’t blow out unless the chimney is blocked, or the combustion of the furnace is to strong in the initial start. Occasionally if you have a severe down draft it could happen. Again the barometric damper will blow out more than a small hole so it shouldn’t be a concern at all. Usually the plug is more professionalism because customers are always concerned about a hole in their smoke pipe, so block it for your customers curiosity.
Don’t see many webster pumps anymore
Thanks for the video. I have a question. I got my boiler in spec (co2, o2, EA, stack temp) Oil pressure is right on. My smoke test is still a #2. If I open up the air shutter any more, my numbers will start going out. Do you know what could cause this? The boiler was just cleaned and has a new nozzle.
If the burner is a flame retention type, you may have flame impingement on some part of the combustion chamber. Also be sure the gun depth is correct.
GFM
Thanks. I'm going to buy the Beckett gauge you referred to in another video and check the gun depth.
When I took the burner off I found that the head was to big for the nozzle. I installed a smaller one (F3) and got the combustion in spec. I noticed shims on the bottom 2 studs where the burner mounts to the boiler. Have you even seen that? I was wondering what they're for.
The shims are probably there to point the burner flame away from the sides of the combustion chamber.
GFM
Makes sense. Thanks for your help.
Your videos are the best.
Would you mind elaborating on how much you opened your air between smoke tests? Eighth inch? Quarter inch? Half inch? I assume you moved only fraction of an inch?
I have AFG burner for a year 1990 Peerless WB-3 boiler gross output 129k BTU boiler. I don't have a manual for my boiler so I don't know what air settings should be. There's a sticker on the transformer that gives various air band/shutter settings for different models but my model isn't listed. The last technician did a smoke test but not a combustion analysis so I have no idea how efficient it is. He set air as follows: Air band (aka bulk or mass air) is open approx. 1/4". As in not closed per your statement. Air shutter (on side) is open about 1/3".
I would like to understand the diff between air shutter and air band and when/why/how much to adjust each.
What's your opinion on oil service contracts that also require customer to buy oil from them and only them at inflated prices? Why do they charge more for oil? I asked one company and their reason was you must use our oil because we know it's clean. I smelled a ripoff so I buy my oil from whomever I choose and I found my own service guy. Still looking for a service guy who knows what he's doing like you obviously do.
Thanks!
+Matt Foley The movements of the air shutter are small. Try 1/8 inch to start. The air band is called the mass air damper for a reason.
Those contracts are for those that want no surprises. It would be quite unusual for and oil company to deliver dirty oil. Hope this helps.
GFM
Thanks for making these. i hope you have monetized these videos
good stuff...