Building Stove Doors, Dampers, and Hardware
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- Опубликовано: 13 сен 2024
- I go over my methods for building doors and dampers for masonry heaters and rocket stoves in my normal rambling way. This is a long one, sorry! I'm using my Tiny House Cook Stove as an example. Hopefully this will help you all build some stoves!
Plans for the stove above, and others available here:
walkerstoves.com/
Door materials used:
Aluminum Door Trim: amzn.to/3co8ESY
Door Corners: amzn.to/2Wifoft
Door Glass: amzn.to/2SOvtYa
Door Latch: amzn.to/2zqRx4a
My Clay/Sand Mortar Mix Recipe: 3 parts dry sharp sand by volume, 1 part dry ground fire clay by volume. Add water to desired consistency.
Fire clay: amzn.to/2ykT2B0
Sharp sand: amzn.to/2LJKqa9
Commonly used parts: amzn.to/2XlBvko
Thanks for watching!
Great video, Matt! I have been working on a RMH for about 3 years and I have been contemplating a few details to finish it off. This was the inspiration that I needed. Thanks for all the information that you have shared.
You could use stainless steel pans for both the door and the frame.
Fuck yeah, Matt.
And I'm down with the bed frames, too.
Thanks Matt. This is really helpful.
Hi Matt,
Was very interesting to see the inner workings here. I just had a question regarding the cavity meant for the hot oven/fast heat exchanger. I thought the space there looked quite narrow where the down draft enters lower oven. Could you really fit an oven or coil heat exchanger in that side space? The video portion from about 15m onwards focuses on the stove cavity I'm referring to. What typical temperature does the hot oven space operate at??
I wanna do almost the exact same thing minus the oven in my enclosed patio/workshop area to keep warm in the winter when working on my projects and with covid am short on cash and not wanting to waste what little cash I have into trying to design something and not have it work well! Looking for something that is already battle tested👍
thanks
Great idea!!
Would appreciate a construction video.
Really neat, keep it up!
Cool build Matt and thank you very much for sharing it.
I just got an idea, what if you took a short section of say 1/2" pipe and rammed it tight with rock wool insulation and ran the coat-hanger wire through that perhaps with a washer on top to make it pretty, would that not work as a seal and provide enough friction to keep the damper where you want it? If you wanted to make sure that the rock wool stayed in there perhaps fixing washers both ends with a welder or perhaps soldering them? Or maybe even superglue would work? :-)
Thanks for the compliment and brainstorming Morten. I think your idea would work very well! I don't have any issues with my simple solution, but certainly there's always room for improvement and your concept is quite smart and sound from my perspective. Thank you for sharing!
I do alot of canning can I use my canners in particular a pressure canner on this? They say not to use them on a glass cook top electric stove
This looks like the walker batch box stove. I was wondering if you were down to sharing the stove plans so I could build one for myself? 😁
I'm going to go do maintenance on the build Saturday. We're upgrading to 2600 degree brick. I met a boiler builder who gave us 100 of them.
He also gave us a roll of KAO wool paper to face the 1/2 top plate of the core. He claims It will keep it from cupping. He suggested using it as a gasket for the plate, as well. He gave me a masonry handsaw, and 3 gallons of refractory cement. Off to the races. Too bad it's slated to be cloudy and 20 degrees.
I described the secondary air metal burnout problem and he said, "Wrap it in the 'k-paper'... use refractory cement as 'glue' and cut out the slit with a knife."
Score! Great stuff J, can't wait to see the build. Oh, hey, I solved the secondary air deterioration. Check it out:
walkerstoves.com/walker-pre-port-secondary-air-tube.html
Yep, kaowool will work well for sealing and insulating the steel top. That stuff is handy!
broaudio No slit in the vertical stainless?
Not in this one, yet. I haven't had a chance to test with and without, and it's working well enough without I think it might be worth it to leave it whole. I'm not sure if it would break down faster once cut, but I feel like it might. You get two uprights from one muffler part, so at some point I'll try the slit version.
broaudio Awesome.
i have built a wood fire stove,with 2ndry air,it work good. when i shot the primery air i am getting water run down my triple wall stove pipe..look for some help on that..
Hello Matt,
first thing, really like this stove and am currently building it. The plans are easy to read and follow. I do have a question; Can the ceramic glass top that is salvaged from a donor stove be cut to size? I have limited space to work with the ceramic glass to may have to be sized. Thanks again
Thanks so much for your support, and I'm so glad to hear of a build! Keep me posted, please, and let me know what I can add to the plans. I'm just starting to compile all the info and it's a bit overwhelming trying to parse what you need to know from all of the info in my head. As for the glass, I have had good luck cutting it with a wet saw and a fine diamond blade. It's nervous work, but should come out okay. Thanks for the comment and stay in touch please.
Thanks for the tip, it does sound nerve racking. In helping understand and simplify the plans, I would humbly suggest giving the final inside dimensions. And a build list such as 2 boards of this dimension and 2 boards of that dimension and top and bottom board dimension might simplify the instructions. Kind of like a model car or put it together yourself furniture. Really only need the ceramic fiber board dimensions. The instructions on sheet 6 says the port is 9" tall when it seems like it should be 10'" like the inner walls. And on sheet 3 it seems like the top should be 21" x 18". Overall I've really been enjoying this project. It will take me a few weeks to complete it and will update you after it is finished. Thanks again.
This is great feedback LP, thank you! Please give me some more details on what you mean by "inside dimensions."
I will for sure add a build list for the core, that would be helpful.
When you say, "only need the ceramic fiber board dimensions", do you mean the brick work dimensions were too much and unnecessary? After I got a ways into it I realized the bricks are going to dictate the size and dimensions were not needed. I'll clean it up a bit, leave the opening dimensions and such. Is that what you meant?
Port is sitting on floor piece, inner sides are below, captured by the floors.
You are right about the top! I am fixing that now, thank you! Great catch. If you don't mind, please email me through the walkerstoves site when you have more. Thanks again.
Does this pass fire and building code ??? Just want to know. Thanks
Also, two questions. When you open the cook oven door, do you usually first engage the chimney bypass damper? I find that if I don't first switch the exhaust path straight to chimney than the draw in the firebox is interrupted. On occasion I even get smokeback at that point. I'm just wondering if opening the damper is standard practice, or if my symptoms reflect a problem with my implementation of the design?
Second and related, I tried that new automotive exhaust pipe you recommended for the pre-port secondary air vertical tube. I did let in a slot in the back. The secondary combustion still starts up pretty easily (I see it flare off at the back within a few seconds of loading) but when starting from anything other than red hot coals it seems to less quickly stable when I close down the primary, and will often go out. I run it with the primary open some until the whole box is lit up and then i close down the primary and the secondary combustion will go for the rest of the burn. You think the secondary is pulling too much air, maybe, with the big open top plus the slot? Or since I'm still using that damn Pisla door (was planning on building a door for this winter but at the moment I'm stoking other fires so to speak) do you think i'm getting too much air leakage up front to stabilize the back burn as quickly as I should?
Anyways, I love the new design as well. What's that beautiful stone with the red waves on it between your oven and firebox?
Hi Kieran, great to hear from you!
Yes, if the fire is ripping when you open the oven door, it's a good idea to use the bypass. Of course it depends on conditions, but you essentially kill the draft for the time the door is open, so the firebox can act up if you don't use the damper.
I do not believe that the new air tube should be much different in performance from the original. The flare should allow it to flow a bit better, but the amount of air should still be regulated by the original inlet size.
It's hard to say what the cause is for the slower start and instability at first. I do believe a lot of it a function of leakage from the front, and those Pislas are sieves in that regard. Perhaps your fuel is a bit green this year as well, or you are like me, going through the less ideal fuel in the pre-season here? I know that my start times vary widely depending on what my wood is like.
The red rock is something I was given by my cousin, I don't know what it is. My uncle passed and these were big chunks in his material pile. I think it might be some Italian stone that he intended to use for tile. Anyway, I sliced into them with my wet saw, and....!!! I know, I love that sun detail on the front. Cool stuff.
Hope that helps, and hope you get it tuned up. Keep me posted on how things go for you as you dial it in, please!
Nice info. I used some sandstone for the lintel over the oven door.
Have you ever played with adjusting the secondary air inlet? I have a scrap of ceramic fiber board I've played with that I use sometimes to slightly restrict secondary air just to watch the flare adjust. Do you think by damping down the opening you could achieve a longer slower burn without way upping the CO numbers, etc.? I'm very comfortable with the burn profile, I was just curious if you've ever played with it.
Timely question, I just got my Testo back from service/calibration and did the first run on the new stove this morning. I do not usually restrict the secondary, typically just the primary, for fear of collapsing the secondary burn and burning dirty. But, now that I have the Testo back, I'm going to play with air settings a bit and see if I can get us some more info and perhaps better data on tuning for folks with different goals and conditions. First run today was great, without even trying it's riding in the mid 80% eff. range and CO stable down around 100ppm.
If I must guess, I imagine you can choke it down quite a ways in most instances without too much harm. Air settings are currently sized to be able to mix and consume the fuel from a full load of smaller pieces, to allow it to be run hot and not overfuel. I believe there's a lot of leeway, and typically it's got much more O2 than it needs.
I have no testing equipment, but anecdotally I agree that there seems to be a lot of leeway. I've found that by regulating the fuel I can slow the burn down a bit without being able to observe a decrease in burn efficiency.
I love playing with it in the evenings.. I'll burn twice as much as I need to just because I love living at 80 degrees sometimes. But the main reason I have messed with it a bit is I burn three types of wood mainly: kiln-dried lumber yard scraps for kindling, Tree of Heaven/Allianthus Altissima, and Mulberry. The tree of heaven and Mulberry are like diametric opposites in terms of density and the mill scraps are another thing entirely. I think I've found that I can get a longer burn out of the super lightweight stuff by slightly choking off the secondary, but that could just be my imagination. And then when I load the mulberry I open it back up and it rips like crazy, but the mulberry's got the density to still run for a few hours.
For whatever these observations are worth to anyone else out there playing with these.
Looking forward to playing with the door hardware you've got on here. The butterfly clip looks great.
when I shut the primer air,then open the 2ndary air ,I get some water or cerasolt comeing down my triple wall pipe out side..
Hard to say Mac, higher exhaust temps would cure it. You are probably choking the fire too much, try giving it some primary along with the secondary. Good luck.
i am running the stove at about 300/325 better know.working lot better.
Dry timber?
Has anyone used 8020 to make a door?
Hi Matt,
Do you use this heater to heat your cabin soley? If I had a bigger house, say 1000 - 1200 sq ft, would I just then add more mass bench to heat the larger space? Increase size of heater maybe?
Also, does the whole cook surface get hot all over? How do you adjust temps for cooking? Have you found it easy to cook multiple dishes at once? Learning curve?
Spindrifter86 I built a 6" Walker core system. The home is 1600 sq feet. They stayed cozy last winter. I posted a vid of the build: "Walker Core With Light".
Hey E. I do use this as sole heat source, and it's doing fine although it was running full out full time last week. Now it's 84 in here and I lit the fire two hours ago. I do not think it would be enough for that size space, perhaps my larger cook stove would. This one has a small firebox in order to fit the format, the bigger stove can hold more wood. I still am not sure it would do all of that space, but of course it depends on the space and how you live. It might be fine, it would for sure be close to enough, and enough most days.
Cook top has a varied temp, from blasting hot over the "riser" to a nice simmer on the cool side. You can of course go up or down from there using air and fuel settings. Plenty easy to cook multiple dishes across the cook top. No real learning curve other than a normal time to get the hang of any new burner. It's really a super functional unit, it just plain works, without a whole lot of fussing. Light the fire, boil water, coffees on! Time for eggs and bacon! It really is that easy. Hope that helps.
thank you it does help. how hard is it to maintain the temp in the oven?
It is very stable, all the brick keeps it steady. It's simple to hold it at a certain temp, and it shines at long and low cooks. I stuck a pork picnic roast in there the other night while the fire was going, let the fire die and the roast cooked all night. One more fire in the morning, and I had 10lbs of pulled pork. It's very easy to use.
yummy. Looking forward to building one for an outdoor kitchen. Florida panhandle.