That battery cable was done like that so you can unhook it easy. Hard for someone to steal it if they can't start it. Did the same to the battery cable in my 67 Chevrolet truck. Also if your truck sits for long periods of time like mine does. Unhook that cable and your battery won't discharge as fast. Been using standard parts for years. They still work great and for a long time even though there made in China now. When I take one that far down I always install new brushes. There cheap and easy to install. Just cheap insurance I feel like.
In this case, the rotor is the field coil. The output is 3-phase alternating current. And there are 6 diodes for the bridge rectifier. It is neat how alternators regulate things. The old DC generators often used permanent magnets, and thus you couldn't regulate things on the field side. So the regulator sat between the output of the generator and the battery. It used relays and huge resistors. They were failure-prone. But then, they began to realize that instead of permanent magnets, they could use slip rings (instead of a commutator) and feed the field voltage into the slip rings (not use them for the output). So then semiconductors can control what feeds the field coil which takes far less current than is produced. So you can sample the output and allow the regulator to vary the field coil voltage based on how strong the battery needs to charge. Then, the above changes produce 3-phase AC. That is what the 6 diodes are for. The cathode bands of 3 diodes are connected together to form the + terminal and each of the other ends go to one of the 3 stator connections. The anode bands of 3 diodes each go to 1 of the 3 stator connections. Or restated, each connection gets an anode of one diode and the cathode of another. Of the 3 pairs, All the free cathodes connect together to the + battery terminal and all the free cathodes connect together and to the negative terminal. If the diode connections sound backward as I described it, it is because the diode contacts are named based on what goes in, not what comes out. So if positive enters the anode, it will leave the diode via the cathode. I'm not sure, but I think the stator is delta wound, meaning that the 3 coils are wired in series into a loop. Theoretically, they could be wired in a wye/star configuration where one end of all 3 coils tie together and optionally to ground.
I think all the WORST ones are in the Carolinas too, lol I've met a few of them. This was a Texas truck originally, the previous owner did all that work to it. Down here if you pick up a vehicle from the southwest it doesn't have rust so they stay in pretty good shape.
Just so you know Danijel I wouldn't have any problem putting a Croatian part in my truck, we've just got specific problems with China because there's no quality control that you can tell of from our end. I'm sure they make fine parts if they want to, but it's hard to know if it's a good china part or a crap china part when you buy it. Most people over here don't have a problem with other countries they just have a problem with crap from China specifically, lol.
Have the exact same problem replaced regulator w one from amazon ($9) same exact one as in vid and my 85 c20 did not fix it don't no if bad part or not one interesting thing on mine when I disconnect battery while running voltage shoots up to 15.1 v for about 15 min than stalled, also stalls Immediately when vent blower is turn on when batt is disconnected do any of u think its a bad replacement or something else I don't want wait weeks for a replacement or pay 35 locally on part not returnable once installed thx
I am having the same type of problem. I bought a new alternator after dragging up my engine in a 1976 Chevy K10. Old alternator was working before replacing intake, water pump, valve covers and alternator bracket. After putting it back together, noticed wasn't charging. Bought new alternator, installed it and still not charging. Had it tested at a shop, they said it wasn't producing any charge. Maybe VR is bad, replaced it and still not charging. Anybody have any suggestions?
Just subscribed, love your videos. It shows you are a jack of all trades like me. I was sad to hear you parts dealer charged you 33.99 for that regulator. On Rockauto . com it would be 11 bucks for the same Standard regulator. funny enough they also have a full kit (STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS AK5) which contains on top of the regulator also new brushes, springs,diode rectifier and a new bearing for 13 bucks!
Those same regulators cost me $5 from small autoparts stores, not brand named nor sold by O'Rielly to multi hike the price. I checked autozone for an alternator rectifier for a 94 suburban, it was almost the cost of a rebuilt alternator, like $60, a small auto electrical shop had them for $12. It pays to shop around.
Great video. Does that alternator have a fuse? I need to replace my alternator but some videos say to check fuse before you replace. I have a 65 c10 12v fuse box but can't find alternator fuse. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks
There's only a few things it can be, bad wiring or a bad alternator. It's possible you got a bad alternator right out of the box, too, I've had that happen before.
@Wayne Hansen, Will a chrome alternator bracket cause a bad ground? I dressed up the motor with a lot of chrome and that is when i started getting the problem. There used to be a ground on the carb mounting bolt that i moved to the ground on the alternator backed that staves to the battery in the other end?
Its' got to be either wiring, or a bad alternator right out of the box, which happens a lot more than you might think. 1 in every 7 or 8 alternators doesn't work right out of the box.... maybe more than that. I'd take it to the parts store and see if they can test the new alternator right there on the bench....
Same here, but, I bought a 110 amp alternator and the store can only input the parameters for what is in the parts list in their system which is a 63 AMP to test it. So they input that and it fails. How do you get them to test it to 110 AMPS? I already put a new VR in the new alternator thinking it was bad. Any help is appreciated. Thanks in advance!
I just put LEDs in the dash of my 1976. They are awesome! Just make sure you buy the dimmable type. I got 300lumen bright white bulbs. I recommend them.
I love these old trucks.....extremely easy to work on
Yup, I love how you can climb up in the engine compartment if you need to, lol Thanks for watching Lauren!
Thanks for the info. My 84 C30 just started reading low voltage and your video just saved me a chunk of change. Subscribed
Great video, never had one apart.. And nice truck that's a keeper!
Me neither until today :)
That battery cable was done like that so you can unhook it easy. Hard for someone to steal it if they can't start it. Did the same to the battery cable in my 67 Chevrolet truck. Also if your truck sits for long periods of time like mine does. Unhook that cable and your battery won't discharge as fast. Been using standard parts for years. They still work great and for a long time even though there made in China now. When I take one that far down I always install new brushes. There cheap and easy to install. Just cheap insurance I feel like.
Yeah it looked like the brushes would be simple to swap... I guess I'll leave the battery cable then, that makes sense :)
Time honored tradition! :)
nice, starting mine tomorrow. its a 92 1500 with the exact symptoms. this video saved me money, thank-you
I believe it's the exact same part and everything, so hopefully that will get you going!
🚗😎👍 I don't see many of those generation Chevy & GMC trux out on the roads anymore like I use to back n the day.
They're great man I've got a 1986 GMC I'm having worked on right now when I get it ready I'm going to do some videos on it too.
Yep,the rotor rotates,the stator stays.Crazy,right?😁 Nicely done,young Ronald!
That makes sense :)
In this case, the rotor is the field coil. The output is 3-phase alternating current. And there are 6 diodes for the bridge rectifier.
It is neat how alternators regulate things. The old DC generators often used permanent magnets, and thus you couldn't regulate things on the field side. So the regulator sat between the output of the generator and the battery. It used relays and huge resistors. They were failure-prone. But then, they began to realize that instead of permanent magnets, they could use slip rings (instead of a commutator) and feed the field voltage into the slip rings (not use them for the output). So then semiconductors can control what feeds the field coil which takes far less current than is produced. So you can sample the output and allow the regulator to vary the field coil voltage based on how strong the battery needs to charge.
Then, the above changes produce 3-phase AC. That is what the 6 diodes are for. The cathode bands of 3 diodes are connected together to form the + terminal and each of the other ends go to one of the 3 stator connections. The anode bands of 3 diodes each go to 1 of the 3 stator connections. Or restated, each connection gets an anode of one diode and the cathode of another. Of the 3 pairs, All the free cathodes connect together to the + battery terminal and all the free cathodes connect together and to the negative terminal. If the diode connections sound backward as I described it, it is because the diode contacts are named based on what goes in, not what comes out. So if positive enters the anode, it will leave the diode via the cathode. I'm not sure, but I think the stator is delta wound, meaning that the 3 coils are wired in series into a loop. Theoretically, they could be wired in a wye/star configuration where one end of all 3 coils tie together and optionally to ground.
Very good video...I'm having the same problem with my 91 Sonoma....
Good luck with it man!
Great video. Learn something new each day!!
Thanks Chad!
Badass truck!
Thanks!
I think all the WORST ones are in the Carolinas too, lol I've met a few of them. This was a Texas truck originally, the previous owner did all that work to it. Down here if you pick up a vehicle from the southwest it doesn't have rust so they stay in pretty good shape.
Subbed! Gonna try this with mine!
Good luck with it krystolix!
Great info. I have a 1984 C10, may try it if mine goes. Bad.
Thanks Bubba, we appreciate you watching!
Great job man !!!!!
Thank you Scott!
Nice car repair video,👍I work as mechanic in CITROEN dealership here in Zagreb Croatia ...almost all parts are now made in China now days...
Just so you know Danijel I wouldn't have any problem putting a Croatian part in my truck, we've just got specific problems with China because there's no quality control that you can tell of from our end. I'm sure they make fine parts if they want to, but it's hard to know if it's a good china part or a crap china part when you buy it. Most people over here don't have a problem with other countries they just have a problem with crap from China specifically, lol.
@@LyonsArcade
Yes, you're right...
Hey Joe would you leave the Porsche at home today that's what you drove being you're a big celebrity on RUclips but it's nice truck
No the damn Chauffeur laid out drunk all night and I had to drive myself unfortunately.
Have the exact same problem replaced regulator w one from amazon ($9) same exact one as in vid and my 85 c20 did not fix it don't no if bad part or not one interesting thing on mine when I disconnect battery while running voltage shoots up to 15.1 v for about 15 min than stalled, also stalls Immediately when vent blower is turn on when batt is disconnected do any of u think its a bad replacement or something else I don't want wait weeks for a replacement or pay 35 locally on part not returnable once installed thx
I am having the same type of problem. I bought a new alternator after dragging up my engine in a 1976 Chevy K10. Old alternator was working before replacing intake, water pump, valve covers and alternator bracket. After putting it back together, noticed wasn't charging. Bought new alternator, installed it and still not charging. Had it tested at a shop, they said it wasn't producing any charge. Maybe VR is bad, replaced it and still not charging. Anybody have any suggestions?
as a gamer working on my pos, it was cool to find this on a classic games channel, keep up the good videos my dude
Just subscribed, love your videos. It shows you are a jack of all trades like me. I was sad to hear you parts dealer charged you 33.99 for that regulator. On Rockauto . com it would be 11 bucks for the same Standard regulator. funny enough they also have a full kit (STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS AK5) which contains on top of the regulator also new brushes, springs,diode rectifier
and a new bearing for 13 bucks!
I love Rock Auto, sometimes though you kind of need it that day, this is my daily driver... Thanks for watching Patrick, we appreciate it!
Those same regulators cost me $5 from small autoparts stores, not brand named nor sold by O'Rielly to multi hike the price. I checked autozone for an alternator rectifier for a 94 suburban, it was almost the cost of a rebuilt alternator, like $60, a small auto electrical shop had them for $12. It pays to shop around.
🇺🇸Lots of Re-Built alternators are not very good. Go to MAD electrical for tips on Delco alternators. USA parts are still available. 🇺🇸
Thanks for the info Fred, i'm running into problems finding even things like US built Fuel Pumps now...
Call Holley direct for a refurbished new one made in USA,I think in Bowling Green Kentucky. P S don’t use Chinese gauges 🇺🇸🇺🇸😎
Nice vid bro
Thanks Michael, we appreciate you watching!
What's got a hole in the back of the frame to slide a paper clip through and hold the brush in
THANK YOU!!
Thanks for watching, Jerry!
Great video. Does that alternator have a fuse? I need to replace my alternator but some videos say to check fuse before you replace. I have a 65 c10 12v fuse box but can't find alternator fuse. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks
Say that's not a pinball or arcade machine are you trying to fool us?
We've got all kinds of stuff to work on around here!
Check the truck rubbers they might be worn out.
Actually one of the rubber belts is squeaking, I think I need to tighten the power steering pump
I bought a new alternator and still having the same problem in my 80 c10 . Any suggestions??
There's only a few things it can be, bad wiring or a bad alternator. It's possible you got a bad alternator right out of the box, too, I've had that happen before.
Often it’s simply a bad ground
@Wayne Hansen, Will a chrome alternator bracket cause a bad ground? I dressed up the motor with a lot of chrome and that is when i started getting the problem. There used to be a ground on the carb mounting bolt that i moved to the ground on the alternator backed that staves to the battery in the other end?
I have the same problem. I replaced the alternator and the battery and still having the same problem in my 79 c10 . Any suggestions??
Its' got to be either wiring, or a bad alternator right out of the box, which happens a lot more than you might think. 1 in every 7 or 8 alternators doesn't work right out of the box.... maybe more than that. I'd take it to the parts store and see if they can test the new alternator right there on the bench....
Same here, but, I bought a 110 amp alternator and the store can only input the parameters for what is in the parts list in their system which is a 63 AMP to test it. So they input that and it fails. How do you get them to test it to 110 AMPS? I already put a new VR in the new alternator thinking it was bad. Any help is appreciated. Thanks in advance!
Where is the starter solenoid
On Chevys they're actually on the starter itself.
And are you going to put LEDs in your truck?
LOL Man it drives me crazy when people have those super bright headlights, I feel like murdering somebody when they come up behind me.
I just put LEDs in the dash of my 1976. They are awesome! Just make sure you buy the dimmable type. I got 300lumen bright white bulbs. I recommend them.
cool
Thank you Tomy Power for watching all our videos!
@@xyrzmxyzptlk1186 cool!
@@LyonsArcade welcome!
@@xyrzmxyzptlk1186 cool!
👍🏼
Thanks Adam!
Hey buddy, wouldyou be interested in selling that truck?
Nah, I like it :)