How to Use a Screw Extractor | Remove snapped off bolt from engine
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- Опубликовано: 27 авг 2024
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Get these drill bits too (steel) amzn.to/2W3MmAD
Shop for the screw extractor you need on amazon here: amzn.to/2VNbpYz
Here is how I used my spiral tempered screw extractor to remove a very stubborn brass fitting that snapped off in the oil sending unit receptacle. Please take great caution to not rush these jobs as they can make more problems happen very quickly if you break the extractor.
The feeling of relief when a broken headless bolt comes out is amazing 😉
mistrydip2k having just done this on my footpeg mounts on my bike, that feeling was glorious. I gave myself a beer afterwards, as reward for a success.
I'm about to set off to do this for the first time. If I biff it I will have to tear my mower engine out. I can't wait to feel this relief!
Fuk I hope I know how that feeling is got this happen on my camshaft on bike
that feeling when you have the broken peace in your hand 🤤
I hope Ill get this feeling soon
Explaining and physically demonstrating is what I appreciate. I have a few broken items that took a while to get out; I will put them in plexiglass and use them as a paperweight. It is proof of overcoming things that make my stomach knot up. Thanks.
you're not kidding WHEN they work. I learned something here. I will never use anything other than hand force and I will go town and buy an expensive set just to have... BTW you did a great job holding the camera also
This extractor worked well on my 20 yr old broken off spark plugs. Going slow IS important! It also helps to spray PB Blaster on threads and tap the extractor with a hammer (lightly) to help Balster wick into threads. I tied other sprays i.e. liquid wrench, WD 40 with no luck. Soon after I used PB the screws came right out.
This stuff is what makes a mechanic, anybody can hang parts,but actually fixing or repairs, entirely something else
You were fortunate on this one. As you know, you must work slowly, carefully and not use a great deal of force. There is a better extractor type to use for brass (and plastic and other soft metals). You should invest in a set of straight-tapered extractors, which are four-sided. Depending on how deep in it was, the brass connector you removed could have expanded and been torn up as you tried to remove it with the spiral-taper extractor. The square-tapered style makes contact at four points of the fastener and won't expand it during removal the way a spiral one will. Spiral types are generally useless with soft metals and plastic/PVC connectors. They will connect initially, then expand the fastener. As you push in a little deeper, it will begin abrading the inside, enlarging the hole and turning uselessly. At that point, you'd probably spend a lot of time picking out pieces of it with tweezers and needle-nose pliers. Irwin-Hanson, Vermont American, Drill Hog, Knipex, etc., make square-tapered sets that will be good to have in your arsenal. Check them out on Amazon.
Thank you for the information. That is the issue I am having now and making it worse.
I was an engine machinist for 28 years and rule number one always drill the bolt all the way through so if the extractor breaks off a punch can drive the broken piece out the bottom of the bolt, and rule two don't force it, if it doesn't break loose drill it and install a heli-coil.
What I usually do is drill until I can get a tap the same size in the bolt. it take more work, but at least you don't have to worry about an Easy Out snapping off. Heli-Coil are ok but have some that didn't hold.
Automotive Mechanic for 16 years
What about for a broken bleed screw on a caliper you can't drill through that all
jz422--No disrespect, that's fine if you have a full hole with a bottom to drive it back through, but that's not the case here. You either use an extractor as he did (with no hole required to be drilled in this case), or break it up into smaller pieces by drilling the bolt out. Brass is a soft material, so I'd try a straight-tapered square extractor rather than the round spiral type he used. The straight-tapered extractor internally grips the fastener at four points and won't expand it as you remove it. The problem becomes more difficult if you break the extractor off in the bolt hole, as the extractor is hardened steel (i.e., not easily drilled). For most of us (myself included), the option then is to take it to a machine shop to let a machinist (like yourself) attempt removal. He may have conventional tools and techniques to do that, or he may have to resort to an electro metal disintegration (EMD) procedure on it to remove the broken extractor and remaining bits of the bolt. As satisfying as it is to do-it-yourself, extractions can go south very quickly. If someone doesn't know what he's doing, that can easily happen, making a bigger mess of things.
Alexander--No disrespect intended, but taps break, too. In all your years as a mechanic, a tap never broke on you, either while cutting new threads or while doing this? I believe they're hardened steel, as well. If true, you're very lucky.
My 1967 mustang coupe had tons of snapped, rounded and rusted bolts I used this on. Thanks for the video brother.
Nice video - well done for explaining how to use an 'Easi-out'. Years ago I did exactly what you warned against - I snapped the extractor in the broken off bolt! After a lot of swearing I worked out the extractor was as hard as hell.....through desperation I used a household masonry ie brick drill. It was the type with 2 brazed in hard cutting edges (probably carbide or similar).....to my amazement it was harder than the extractor and it turned the extractor into swarf although it killed the drill bit but I thought it was a very small price to pay! I hope this helps somebody in the same position! It also helps to use the biggest diameter extractor that will fit the bolt or stud that is broken off.
I don't know how many of your videos I have watched and I'm in the middle of my own 302 budget build! I snapped a cam bolt from ARP off in my block and you have no idea how ecstatic it makes me that you have a video documenting these extractors! I really hope it works for me!
I have used these a lot over the years. I got one stuck only once in a broken brass nipple in a cast iron boiler.
They work great for me
Man listen I could give a damn how long this video was, I was going to watch it to its end after snapping a bolt while changing valve covers and seals on my truck. I have this kit and now I know how to use it. Thanks man.
That is such old school!... Have you not seen modern extractors that have straight sharp edges on them. They work every time.
GREG GERHARDT I haven't seen them! Post a link.
Do some research dude!
Just happened to me today with the oil pressure on a sbc 305. This video made me feel better.
I own a extractor kit, but never really knew how to use them. Thanks to your video, I now have use for them, and how to use them properly. 2 thumbs up. Awesome video
This was relatively easy, with proper tool selection for this scenario. Bolt extraction is a big topic. When faced with more challenging situations, watch many other videos before starting, and don't be too aggressive right off-the-bat, to avoid making things worse. Seized rusty bolts will require different approaches and tools. Also, know when to give up and seek professional assistance.
Think of it like defusing a bomb. You're fucked already because the bolt broke off. But if you can delicately and carefully coax that bolt out you will be less fucked and succeed in removal. Takes a lot of careful work, slow work, skill, and patience. The broken bolt can do whatever the hell it wants to and nothing is guaranteed. Form an attack plan, and watch it closely. If you start slipping, try another plan.
Oh, the relief when it finally starts to move.
That is one of the finest rebuilds I've see sir. I don't have the car but I have the Engine. I'm all excited about trying to do a build as clean and with as much attention to detail as you have done here. Always remember, making mistakes is the way we learn. Not admitting our mistakes is a setup to failure in the future. Please keep up the good videos as there are many thousands of us out here getting something new as well as refresher courses from you. From a 60's Hot Rod Boy.
when he said "or you just broke something off in your block, and you're kinda like, shit now what do I do" I really felt that
Thanks something similar happened to me. Really appreciate that you did this video. I get your take with the "great caution" advice. Older Volvo 300 k miles and it might have easily been toast if it weren't for your help. The mechanic I trust said she is toast so I went online found your video and here I am saying thank you my friend. My repair efforts were successful
I've spent 3 hours trying to figure THIS problem out!! Mahalo for the help, time to extract this bolt!
see? mainlanders aren't so bad
now this was very well explained ..and with a nice voice....I have a set of those screw extractors lying around in my basement but never used them..I didn't even knew it should be used counterclockwise.So this was very instructive..thank you !
Excellent. It doesn't happen often, but when I need the extractor it is worth its weight in gold! Now I know how to use it properly. You duh man!
Dude nice motor, keep the project going man!!! Can't wait to see the final outcome!!
My story: removing a hex headed oil gallery plug with rounded hex. Drilled a hole, used the extractor, kept turning until I heard a dull ping. I cracked a small piece of the block. OMG! With the block piece came about 1/4 of the threaded hole, so I gut the plug out but totalled the block. A marine engineer friend told me to epoxy the engine block bit back in place with JB Weld. Did that and 20 years later the engine still runs strong. That sickening dull ping noise haunts me today.
Oh man. That's a sinking feeling. Try McMaster, Swagelok, or Serto. Serto has some oddball brass sizes. Good job!
Very helpful! Thanks for posting! My husband got new side steps for his truck and while taking the old steps off a bolt broke up inside. It’s a good 4-5 inches up inside the hole so this seems to be the only way to get his broken bolt out. Gonna go get these extracting screws now and hopefully they are long enough to reach! Thanks for posting!
Leticia--I hope you were able to get a set of these extractors at a big box store or, as I suggested in my comment, on Amazon or other online seller. They're kind of a specialized item, and I'm not sure you can find them easily in stores. I see Lowe's carries them, but you may have to order the set online from them and pick it up at your local store. They're one of those tools that you don't need very often, but when you need them, nothing else works for you. BTW, they're not extracting "screws"; they are screw or bolt extractors, so be sure to ask for them that way if you got to a store, or look for them online. They ARE screw-shaped or even drill-shaped in appearance, but that's where the similarity ends. Most extractors work on the "wedge" principle; you drill a hole, wedge the extractor in as tightly as you can, then turn counter-clockwise. As I mentioned in my comment a year ago (above), this style doesn't always work well with brass and PVC (i.e., soft materials), so a set of square tapered extractors is also good to have. I hope you were able to find what you need already, and that your husband was able to use them successfully.
Thank you very much! Snapped a screw off in my front end loader mechanism. You saved me $$$$.
just mentioning crazy nut,bolt etc sizes,our old uncle left us what we thought was a huge tinful of nut,bolts springs ad stuff that we don,t even recognise,but what a godsend since we started restoring older cars
Believe me,..... I understand how joyful you are!
You must also make another video explaining and demonstrating how to beat up your appy mechanic after he snapped off a bolt over tightening it.
thanks for your video - I had a caliper pin on my motorbike brakes that refused to budge. Your video was really good in showing what tool to use and how to use it, now my caliper is ready for new pins and the thread/caliper is undamaged!
very very useful!! just sheared off an almost identical brass connector for fluid pressure gauge screwed into test port on 83 Mercedes transmission. whew!! thanks for posting this!
A T shaped tapping wrench would fit on the extractor and due to the short handle will make it less likely to over torque the extractor. Great job!
perfect job I'm going to fix my problem now I broke the bolt inside the block when I'm doing the tintion bulley for the timing belt 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Thank you for your video on the broken extraction. Fixed my drill press
Great help. I have snapped off a seat belt anchor bolt. This has given me a potential solution. Cheers.
Hardened steel actually is quite easy to remove. Just pack the area with c4 and detonate. Of course, depending on how stressed the person is, you may consider sitting in the vehicle while it explodes.
Funny, my friends gave me the same advise!
Thanks, for the vid. I had an extractor break off once.. Yes, you are correct. DO NOT make it go past its limits.
A good tip i learned the hard way about is if a bolt is corroded and or seised tighten it then loosen and do those steps over and over till you get the bolt out
And throw some heat on it with a torch if you can.
man.... you lucked out. I broke one off last night and now I'm working on plan B
I assure you I do know how happy you were.
I've been listening to your videos and I have to say that I enjoy your videos. I to am a Ford lover and I really can appreciate the time and efforts that you put into your videos. I'm also glad to see you were able to remove it without too much aggravation!
Very informative!!!
Thanks for the helpful video since I accidentally broke my compressor at my work.
This is an amazing way to extract. Thank you for youre patient's and creativity way of explainig stuff. Good job
I used to use those kind of extractors.then i discovered the flute extractor.way better.ive removed 100's of broken brass, copper and s.steel pipe type of fittings
Cool technique. Extracting steel bolts are a little more challenging but thanks for posting anyhow.
Great. Now time to try this on my thermostat manifold for my blazer -_- wish me luck!
Awesome. Thanks for the video. This tool is good for extracting a bathroom broken shower valve cartridge. They get stuck and break off but this tool will do the trick and get the outer brass of the cartridge out. Thanks again. Cheers.
BTW... awesome friggin engine.
I think you should use a tsp handle when using an easy out. To leases the sideways forces on the easy out. I have used easy outs a lot when I worked on A7's when removing access panels . what a pain when you break one
Im going to subscribe because you help me a lot i break a temp sensor and because of this video i fix it!! Thank u so much!!
Thanks for the video. I broke a shock bolt flush in the axle and your video has helped.
Oh my......Thank God it was Brass. I had to, about a month ago, remove some torqued up 12.9 bolts that'd broken off. Took hours......and a good amount of high speed drill bits. Nice video, though. Great explanation.
Good video you explain it great I have 2 broken screws in my wheel on my mustang from the center caps I've never done it so was looking for some advise. I'm glad I watched your video first have a great day!
Personally thing you did a great job on explaining everything. Very helpful
You could find the proper threaded plug at any good small machine shop with a old timer machinist, spin one up in less then 10 mins. If your a weekend wrencher or even a pro, find a good manual machinist, he will become your best friend.
Nice, I wasn't expecting it to be that helpful too bad I'm kinda late and I had to make a new hole for when I had it happen on my car but very help full thanks
Man you got lucky,good job. I went a little too tight on power steering pump bolt. Tough to get at,wish me luck. 👍🏻
If dont have extractor or it's in tight space also sell tool that grabs outer edges of bolt which you can then get alot more leverage on tight bolt
best video about how to use an exctractor
I have had good luck extracting brass fittings by heating them up red hot with a torch doesn't take long, then let it cool and it will shrink a bit then it comes right out.
I,m sure some people could recommend a very good course on how to handle a video for this guy.
Great video. I have a bolt that holds the seat in, the bolt head snapped off. I have drilled the bolt out, so I will get an extract tool that you shown to get the rest of it out.
Thank you ~ I have an opportunity to purchase a large lot of these for re-sale and didn't know what the heck an "extractor" was.
I shouted yay when it came out watching this and I pray mine comes out as easily
did it come out ?
I see why people that work on cars for a living charge what they charge...I'm replacing a water pump on a 87 C4 Corvette and someone before me, must have tired to remove the AC bracket and broke one the bolts off that holds the brakes on...Iworked all day trying to remove it...
thanks for the video!!! :=)
Stud extractors will vary a lot in material quality and design. The best are likely to be a hardened and tempered mid to high carbon low alloy steel. This should be a little harder than a high tensile bolt (which are also tempered matensite). It's worth investing in a quality set but even so they can slip or snap (if abused) also if the stud is a ductile metal like brass and firmly stuck in the hole it can deform under the internal pressure from the extractor causing the threads to tighten up further.
Hate it when that happens!! Good job man!!
That engine is super cool
Thanks man ... great video. Have some nerf bars a friend gave me with similar issue of snapped heads and just needed a no how on getting the out.
You can drill it with a carbide drill bit or very carefully with a ceramic bit.
My dads spark plug in his van blew out of the hole[ the ceramic white part] and the only thing left was the piece screwed into the block. but the ends were rounded off and could not get a socket to grab it to remove the rest of the spark plug. i had to use one of the bolt extractors on a long extension to back out the old spark plug.because it sat down inside a heat shield around each spark plug hole
You make a great video. Have you ever seen the A-SURE OUT extractor? It can be removed in seconds if it breks no EDM or DRILLING. After seeing it, only a fool would use anything else! All materials and labor made in the USA!
Great Video good idea for the subject, there are many people who do not know that extractors exist. Might be worth mentioning that it is not a good idea to use them on thin walled material or or soft metals such as brass!!.. On stubborn bolts they can make matters a lot worse by deforming the remains of the bolt and making the bolt dig into the male threads. Also, don't buy cheap versions of these tools they are cheap mild steel that have been hardened to within an inch of there life making them extremely brittle and snap; as you say in your video if this happens we all go home.
That was a great video. Good camera, good lighting really clear explanation. Thanks because I have to do something almost exactly the same!👌👍
I was today years old when I found out you can use a drill on the extractor 🤯
Have had mixed results myself with them but always worth a try
I just broke a water pump bolt off. It's going to take a while to drill a hole of the proper size that will allow an extractor to get in. Damn! I'm surprised how easy it was to break off one of the bolts.
you got lucky snapping off a hollow bolt. i have had nothing but bad times with these extractors on normal bolts... one of them being the time i snapped the extractor off in the hole i had drilled. I wish i could remember how i got that one out, but it wasn't pretty.
Nice job. Love the details. Length of video just right. Thank you!
If you go into Home Depot and go to the water heater isle where the gas connectors are you will find a 3/8 threaded male nipple on one side and I believe it will be flare fitting on the other .
Challange at 4:13 to find 3/8 16 brass? Jamestown Distributors carries that thread in brass rod and machine screws (flat and round head). In silicon bronze you can get screws, hex head cap screws, rods and even carriage bolts. :-)
"Shit now what do I do?" -- thanks for your honesty :D
Yap I 've ever used drill for this kind of problem. Slow reverse Bosch with left handed drill bit....it's quiet all right though as this kind of fancy extractor is not easy to find in our country...I believe you are in USA...anyway nice engine...
Easy with a brass plug in a cast block. Satisfying video and nice build!
Got any tips for a guy with a high tensile bolt thats broken in a forged steel A-arm?
Thanks!
A tip if I may, things come out easier if they are lubricated. A light spray would always help.
cool vid thanks. Not a Ford guy but good luck with the motor.
Should be used as a last resort only, and dont use a cheap one.
Also, if you don’t have a bolt extractor you can drill a small hole in the bolt and lightly hammer a hex bit into the broken bolt and use a wrench or something to loosen it. Of course I don’t think it would work in this guys case.
Nice video m8, snapped a bolt off today....gunna be trying the easy out way tomorrow:(...
you can use barrel nuts or threaded sleves...they come in 16 threads...
Did the same thing on a 302 water pump
I have one of the worst kind of snapped bolt to take out.... Pain stacking slow to drill out a snapped titanium 8mm bolt but it is gradually drilling in... Its got stuck in motorcycle engine block bottom side and I knew it was going to snap the way it was twisting and not budging on the few mm sticking out on opposite side.
What adaptor did you use to attach a ratchet onto the extractor?
I am dealing with a brass jet in my carb that the flat head top stripped off smooth in a deep hole. Every screw gave me trouble, and of course the last jet to remove before I can start the cleaning and reassembly is so stuck in there I just want to scream. I may try to put a dab of JB weld on the tip of a bolt, screw in the tip and walk away. Come back and pray I can get it out.
This has been very helpful thank you
I saw this and thought an extractor might help me out. I tried to heed the warning not to break the extractor, was slow, careful and used vice grips that I thought wouldn't be capable of creating enough torque to break it. I broke it, drilled it out with carbide and made the hole a little bigger, then, yep I did it again thinking I would use a square tapered extractor and be really extra careful. So I want to elaborate on that warning for anyone like me that may not be familiar with extractors, they are very easy to break and there are some jobs they just can't handle. Three exhaust manifold bolts have, over time, broken themselves off in my head, I have ordered time sert kit and threads for the fix because extractors are... Yes I have had it soaking in penetrating rust eating you name it... Don't say to use a MIG cause it's recessed in the head-and I tried anyway but couldn't get a hold.
You should take extra care using a wrench/socket the wrenching action can snap it off. Typically those are used with a tap wrench where equal force on each side can be applied to avoid wrenching action.
How does the extractor screw into the brass plug? You already had it in? It is metal grinding on metal so a ratchet will start to drill it in?
I am a great believer in "PB BLASTER" saved me on a broken water pump bolt I also use never seize on anything I put back together. messy shit but worth its weight if you have to take it apart again. Castle makes an aerosol never seize product
I always use thread lube when putting in a critical bolt.