Did this job for close to 25 years and I loved it thought it was the best job in the world, at the same time I regret doing it if you’re a young fellow thinking of getting into this it’s not worth it there are now more fallers then jobs . Back in the old days jobs are plentiful and the pay was big but things are changing fast
He is right I cut timber for 25 yrs also. The money sounds big but in the long run your better off with a job with retirement. In sw Washington and Oregon your retirement was what you saved. They also don't tell you about saw Bill's. You provided your own tools. I loved it out there. The men you worked with are different than any others. I didn't let my boys cut or go on the rigging. Don't get this in your blood.
I am not a faller- it makes me feel awful to know that all of you guys are out there risking your necks, doing physics calculations without college degrees, just so society doesn’t fall apart. I appreciate you.
You dont need a college degree to understand physics, these days all college is good for is indoctrination. These guys wouldn't be serving our country the way they do if the college system got their hands on them
I'd have to say that this is a very good video on teaching the art of felling trees!!!! There's a couple of things missing, but all in all; very informative video!!!! New sub for sure!!!! ;-)
Personally I went through half dozen of both huskies and stihls. For a lot of reasons prefer my simpler Jonsered. I can start it one pull by lowering the throttle real quick as it begins to start.
ok, so were buying a husqvarna 266 SE tomorrow and its up to me to learn and translate about the use, since im the only english speaking person in the family, i make this comment of this thing we noticed I find it quite funny how at 20:35 this guy places his saw smack in the middle of his escape route, where i would figure its best to place the saw at the end of the escape route before the tree starts to fall. I see he has time for this because he came to the point driving in the wedges in the cut and the saw was no longer needed. It even was shut off at that moment He now had to pick up the saw while the tree was already falling, and it was placed directly in his escape route, If something went wrong and he needed to make a run for it, he would have tripped over the saw. i also think it is easier to run away without a chainsaw in your hands which you had to pick up off the ground first. And certainly when it has blade on it with that length. I would fear this blad could get stuck behind something, slowing you down in the run. so as soon as you start with the wedges, first place the shut off saw somewhere handy -like the end of your escape route, and/or at a safe distance. sadly for me i probably wont be allowed to use our new chainsaw, although i intend to and then cut our hedge with it to scare my neighbours and i know this guy has done this 20000times before and knows what he is doing before making this video, but i just thought to point it out, since it is a safety video
Interesting that short stubby tree is more dangerous than a tall, large tree. That last one was pretty cool, looked rotted too. I have no idea why I'm so transfixed on these tree felling videos all of a sudden.
Preston Jones smaller ones are the ones that can get you killed. It's a highly dangerous business, but bigger trees are relatively easier to fell (at least that has been my experience).
I put obstacles in my path to make it more exciting, once I even escaped into the fall to make it really fun. I can't work in the yard anymore because I'm a paraplegic. I should make better life decisions
Half the comments on these videos series are about that. I’m not sure why, but it could be this is more predictable with these old softwood trees? Also, you can’t fall 2 or 3 trees at once using the trigger wood method, as they’re doing here.
Great series of videos. I am curious about the blaze orange axe. What brand is it? What are the favorite axes used in BC by loggers and forestry professionals?
Er, surprised that no-one else has mentioned this - at 23:30 the faller fella walks right in front of the undercut - isn't that an absolute no-no, especially when the 'tree' is a 1/2 cut through pile of rot?
Actually the danger zone in that case is BEHIND the tree. You can escape the frontward fall, but if it barberchairs and kicks back it can violently explode in some cases if the holding wood fails. Either way you'd want to avoid it though.
On all your videos you say to check for over head hazards, but you never say how to remove them or what next? Then this last tree, split an I thought it would have been a good idea to have placed a chain around it above the cut to protect fellers should it barber chair
I can't speak for them, but I speculate that if the bottom of the log is splayed at all, it could complicate the safety-perfect cutting technique. If you're making a vidya for safety display purposes it would be wiser to go just a little higher so as to cut into a perfect circle rather than an irregular stump. But IDK, maybe the mill won't want that wood anyhow for board foot
I wish the narrator could be a bit more informative. For example, "once you've finished cutting, you can _never_ go back to that tree again", but not explaining any whys. Same with "clear two escape paths", but never say why two, what directions, etc. Very nice video to watch, anyhow!
Those escape routes are explained in prior videos. 45 degrees from back of the felling direction. Always good to have a backup in case something happens so 2 is better than 1. Offset to avoid dangers of tree kicking up or throwing material backwards from the felling.
They should have mentioned, that you should always bore into rotten trees before you put a face in them because some rotten ones will sit right on your saw & or just completely collapse the moment you attempt to put a face in. And If you have tall rotten trees, especially still with their tops attached, then they are far more dangerous when wedging because some part of the tree & or the entire top can snap off and come straight down on you but if you have a good size preferably green tree close by, then you can use that tree to pile drive or knock the tall rotten tree over. So you would put a thick/wide face into the rotten tree & make your face depth about a quarter of the diameter of the tree & put your wedges by hand in you're back cut as you cut but DO NOT drive your wedges in with your axe..! Than you make sure you have a long escape route & another tree to get behind so as to block any debris that may come back your way & than you pile-drive or push your dead tree over with your bigger green tree by using a glancing blow, NEVER hit the rotten tree straight on if it is a bigger rotten tree & never try to knock over medium size to big trees that are broken off half way up or shorter, if it is a sound firm rotten tree! If it is very rotten/to dangerous to even cut & it can be at ANY length & you have a big enough heavy green tree that will adequately reach it, than you can use that tree to smash or push the rotten tree over but once again have a long escape route with another good size green tree to take cover behind because the butt of your push tree can come right back at you if you accidentally make a dead on hit & debris from your rotten tree can sometimes come back towards you also. Now if you have a big green tree that has a prominent lean & the tree is 5' feet diameter or bigger & you're in soft soil or a creek bottom or anywhere else where you can see the many of the roots of that tree on the surface. Make sure to cut out a good long escape rout to where you have another tree to get get behind & far enough away from the length of the roots on the ground. And when you make your face in this tree make it one third in like you would on most other trees but make your wedge almost as thick/wide as your face depth, so you have a good open face for the tree to fall into, than take your bar & cut out the core of your tree ONLY, by putting your bar into your face. than when making your back cut make sure your saw chain is sharp & your rakers are not to short to where your chain grabs and stalls your saw & stops your chain on your back cut because if you don't cut this tree on your back cut fast enough & prep the tree proper like I'm taking about, the tree will come over & close the small face & than rip stump & the roots straight up out of the ground & kill anyone on top of the roots! And you should always cut your stumps as close to the ground or you can on all trees other than rotten trees, when it's possible to do it & still properly cut your tree!
Seems you guys have your own concept of "holding wood", applying the term to what's commonly known as "hinge wood" or simply "hinge". What's commonly referred to as "holding wood" is the yet-unfinished cut from boring a backcut out from the hinge. Snip that- down she goes. Why confuse things?
I think hinge wood is a type of holding wood. After all it is the only thing that keeps the tree on the stump. So all hinge wood is holding wood but not all holding wood is hinge wood, as you point out.
I think the point was he was never going to bring the tree down and also wanted it a little stronger and keep some wood in there so it never fell back on him but he would be nowhere near it so it wasn't that important.
Its only because some people are idiots and can't controll the saw 100%, when the saws warm it's less dangerous. keep the nose of the bar on the ground or a log/root for a bit more stability
Why would you cut that monster tree down? It's surrounded by good young trees that haven't taken hundreds of years to grow...cut them down! Leave the monsters or there won't be any more on this planet. SMH. Even if it's dead it's great for other species in the forest.
Find information and resources on manual falling & bucking here: www.worksafebc.com/en/health-safety/industries/forestry/types/manual-falling-bucking
Best videos to learn Felling the right way
Way beyond my level but a really interesting video. Impressive skills. Thanks.
Excellent work !
Did this job for close to 25 years and I loved it thought it was the best job in the world, at the same time I regret doing it if you’re a young fellow thinking of getting into this it’s not worth it there are now more fallers then jobs . Back in the old days jobs are plentiful and the pay was big but things are changing fast
He is right I cut timber for 25 yrs also. The money sounds big but in the long run your better off with a job with retirement. In sw Washington and Oregon your retirement was what you saved. They also don't tell you about saw Bill's. You provided your own tools. I loved it out there. The men you worked with are different than any others. I didn't let my boys cut or go on the rigging. Don't get this in your blood.
Funnest job you can have especially when your cutting danger trees on fires
I am not a faller- it makes me feel awful to know that all of you guys are out there risking your necks, doing physics calculations without college degrees, just so society doesn’t fall apart. I appreciate you.
You dont need a college degree to understand physics, these days all college is good for is indoctrination. These guys wouldn't be serving our country the way they do if the college system got their hands on them
Physics calculations without college degrees? Would you prefer to proffer?
Are you serious a college degree ,this dude might not have one but physics is his degree without a d gree
Fallers know shit that would make you’re head pop
Thanks for the film materials - from the Poland
2:19 "Always start on the lower or front tree." 4:37 "Once you are finished working on this tree you can never go back to it."
A really interesting tutorial, my compliments !
Many thanks !
I have never used a humboldt notch, next time I will.
I would like to buy this faller feller a beer!
james davies sounds good 👌🏻 beer 🍻
I'd have to say that this is a very good video on teaching the art of felling trees!!!! There's a couple of things missing, but all in all; very informative video!!!! New sub for sure!!!! ;-)
I love how all these tutorial vids show only 2 brands... this is all you need to know when buying a saw
Tac yeah. I have 3 Stihls but I like Husqvarnas too,used to use both when I was heli logging in BC.
Personally I went through half dozen of both huskies and stihls. For a lot of reasons prefer my simpler Jonsered. I can start it one pull by lowering the throttle real quick as it begins to start.
Wicked nice wood lots up there most looks like select logs
too bad all of the stumps are waist high, loosing a lot of wood over the whole day.
ok, so were buying a husqvarna 266 SE tomorrow and its up to me to learn and translate
about the use, since im the only english speaking person in the family, i make this comment of this thing we noticed
I find it quite funny how at 20:35 this guy places his saw smack in the middle of his
escape route,
where i would figure its best to place the saw at the end
of the escape route before the tree starts to fall. I see he has time
for this because he came to the point driving in the wedges in the cut and the saw
was no longer needed. It even was shut off at that moment
He now had to pick up the saw while the tree was already falling, and it was placed directly in his escape route, If something went wrong and he needed to make a run for it, he would have tripped over the saw. i also think it is easier to run away without a chainsaw in your hands which you had to pick up off the ground first. And certainly when it has blade on it with that length. I would fear this blad could get stuck behind something, slowing you down in the run.
so as soon as you start with the wedges, first place the shut off saw somewhere handy -like the end of your escape route, and/or at a safe distance. sadly for me i probably wont be allowed to use our new chainsaw, although i intend to and then cut our hedge with it to scare my neighbours
and i know this guy has done this 20000times before and knows what he is doing before making this video, but i just thought to point it out, since it is a safety video
Regan Teresa but Stihl. Less headache and less over-heating in summer months
These guys are pros. They know when to leave the saw behind. A saw is not hard to run or step over.
Nice video great training videos
Great educational videos. These guys on the West coast know how to cut big trees. Where do you get your sawyer tool belts for holding wedges and axe??
Interesting that short stubby tree is more dangerous than a tall, large tree. That last one was pretty cool, looked rotted too. I have no idea why I'm so transfixed on these tree felling videos all of a sudden.
Preston Jones smaller ones are the ones that can get you killed. It's a highly dangerous business, but bigger trees are relatively easier to fell (at least that has been my experience).
Only if you know what your doing , both small and big can be dangerous !!!
Escape routes are much more exciting if you cut them while you're running.
Don't try that at work.
Don't try it at all
Indeed.
I put obstacles in my path to make it more exciting, once I even escaped into the fall to make it really fun. I can't work in the yard anymore because I'm a paraplegic.
I should make better life decisions
great video thanks
wow at that last tree...i would love to have a chance at that someday...well done sirs
RockyMountain We have a lot of grapevines where I live so you got to do this alot.
good job
brilliant tutorial....but can u explain why there are no centre hollow cut with using a trigger of cutting the back of the notch>
You mean a bore cut.
Soft wood doesn’t need it apparently
Half the comments on these videos series are about that. I’m not sure why, but it could be this is more predictable with these old softwood trees? Also, you can’t fall 2 or 3 trees at once using the trigger wood method, as they’re doing here.
Great series of videos. I am curious about the blaze orange axe. What brand is it? What are the favorite axes used in BC by loggers and forestry professionals?
There just spray painted that way as to not lose them. Different brands
Just paint yours. When it goes bad, paint the new one. Lol. I've never lost mine and it's just wood.
That saw cuts like butter
16:55 For a moment, he forgot he was doing a SAFETY video 🤣
Terimakasih from Indonesian
Ok bos salam👍👍 dari Indonesia🇮🇩👍👍🙏🙏
BRAVO 💪👍💪
Why don’t you show what it really looks like on the WC. Looks like you’re falling in beacon hill park
Er, surprised that no-one else has mentioned this - at 23:30 the faller fella walks right in front of the undercut - isn't that an absolute no-no, especially when the 'tree' is a 1/2 cut through pile of rot?
Actually the danger zone in that case is BEHIND the tree. You can escape the frontward fall, but if it barberchairs and kicks back it can violently explode in some cases if the holding wood fails. Either way you'd want to avoid it though.
On all your videos you say to check for over head hazards, but you never say how to remove them or what next?
Then this last tree, split an I thought it would have been a good idea to have placed a chain around it above the cut to protect fellers should it barber chair
25:50 busted not taking his earmuffs of while wedging as stated ealier in the clip about this tree.
That last (jacked) tree was really dangerous rotten-through giant.
How do I turn the sound up
It's in the BC Faller Training Standard - Falling Hazards (14 of 17) episode.
Sthil’s and Huskies are two of the best chainsaws ! But I prefer Sthil !
Why do you guys leave the butts so high?
I can't speak for them, but I speculate that if the bottom of the log is splayed at all, it could complicate the safety-perfect cutting technique. If you're making a vidya for safety display purposes it would be wiser to go just a little higher so as to cut into a perfect circle rather than an irregular stump. But IDK, maybe the mill won't want that wood anyhow for board foot
16:38 😲 open up that undercut or it'll close up too soon and barberchair!
What is BC?
I wish the narrator could be a bit more informative. For example, "once you've finished cutting, you can _never_ go back to that tree again", but not explaining any whys. Same with "clear two escape paths", but never say why two, what directions, etc.
Very nice video to watch, anyhow!
Just add "..or you'll be sorry." after each.
Those escape routes are explained in prior videos. 45 degrees from back of the felling direction. Always good to have a backup in case something happens so 2 is better than 1. Offset to avoid dangers of tree kicking up or throwing material backwards from the felling.
I'm a 51 yr old woman. Why am I watching this at 2:47 am?
Maybe you were a tree feller in a past life 🤠
Look how rotted that last tree was.. also why do none of these guys wear safety glasses? it only took me one splinter in the eye to figure that out.
Usually the visor screen works if you use them
They jacked that tree good.
newbie. why push a tree? why not just fell both if they are not entangled?
easier to push a smaller leaner to set it in the lay rather than trying to bang it over with wedges, safer aswell.
That last one split all the way up. Bummer.
I’d never move to next tree wtf eh, it’s “wait for me”! I don’t want the chance of tree 1 falling on or kicking me and I would need the wedges too
They should have mentioned, that you should always bore into rotten trees before you put a face in them because some rotten ones will sit right on your saw & or just completely collapse the moment you attempt to put a face in. And If you have tall rotten trees, especially still with their tops attached, then they are far more dangerous when wedging because some part of the tree & or the entire top can snap off and come straight down on you but if you have a good size preferably green tree close by, then you can use that tree to pile drive or knock the tall rotten tree over. So you would put a thick/wide face into the rotten tree & make your face depth about a quarter of the diameter of the tree & put your wedges by hand in you're back cut as you cut but DO NOT drive your wedges in with your axe..! Than you make sure you have a long escape route & another tree to get behind so as to block any debris that may come back your way & than you pile-drive or push your dead tree over with your bigger green tree by using a glancing blow, NEVER hit the rotten tree straight on if it is a bigger rotten tree & never try to knock over medium size to big trees that are broken off half way up or shorter, if it is a sound firm rotten tree! If it is very rotten/to dangerous to even cut & it can be at ANY length & you have a big enough heavy green tree that will adequately reach it, than you can use that tree to smash or push the rotten tree over but once again have a long escape route with another good size green tree to take cover behind because the butt of your push tree can come right back at you if you accidentally make a dead on hit & debris from your rotten tree can sometimes come back towards you also. Now if you have a big green tree that has a prominent lean & the tree is 5' feet diameter or bigger & you're in soft soil or a creek bottom or anywhere else where you can see the many of the roots of that tree on the surface. Make sure to cut out a good long escape rout to where you have another tree to get get behind & far enough away from the length of the roots on the ground. And when you make your face in this tree make it one third in like you would on most other trees but make your wedge almost as thick/wide as your face depth, so you have a good open face for the tree to fall into, than take your bar & cut out the core of your tree ONLY, by putting your bar into your face. than when making your back cut make sure your saw chain is sharp & your rakers are not to short to where your chain grabs and stalls your saw & stops your chain on your back cut because if you don't cut this tree on your back cut fast enough & prep the tree proper like I'm taking about, the tree will come over & close the small face & than rip stump & the roots straight up out of the ground & kill anyone on top of the roots! And you should always cut your stumps as close to the ground or you can on all trees other than rotten trees, when it's possible to do it & still properly cut your tree!
Pardon me ?
The only person willing to take the job was a con man trying to poach my timber. I am too small for the professionals. Put that in my obituary.
34:00 "Make bore cuts towards the heart of the tree.." not a good vid to watch if you are a hippy
love these vids.. but it is sad to see 300+(?) year old tree carved apart like some humpback whale in the 19th century..
Seems you guys have your own concept of "holding wood", applying the term to what's commonly known as "hinge wood" or simply "hinge". What's commonly referred to as "holding wood" is the yet-unfinished cut from boring a backcut out from the hinge. Snip that- down she goes. Why confuse things?
I think hinge wood is a type of holding wood. After all it is the only thing that keeps the tree on the stump. So all hinge wood is holding wood but not all holding wood is hinge wood, as you point out.
10:10 clean up yer dutch!!
Wedges are also good for killing vampires.
And wen I did we called it a bever cut
9:48 feller failed to leave a clean under cut ...wtf?...thought this was a certified safety tutorial ?
I think the point was he was never going to bring the tree down and also wanted it a little stronger and keep some wood in there so it never fell back on him but he would be nowhere near it so it wasn't that important.
@@mudhustle he left a dutchman not best practice
If these guys had to cut timber for two skidders. The boss would fire their butt before lunch. It takes these guys for ever to cut a tree.
That last huge tree was rotten as all getup.
The JACKED tree at end fell and broke apart. It looked rotten above the cut. Yes? That made it a very dangerous tree indeed.
14:25 what a joke!!!!...nothing about cleaning the under cut at 9:48
Two Trees at once you dance with swords sir
Are we hammering the trees down now or should we use the chainsaw. Common sense......balance.
I am a logger and I never got told this
Lol. Just smart I reckon.
Shoulda doubled up on second tree. He ran outta wedge and was lucky it dropped.
I am told drop-starts are dangerous.
Its only because some people are idiots and can't controll the saw 100%, when the saws warm it's less dangerous. keep the nose of the bar on the ground or a log/root for a bit more stability
@@RyanSmith-ec4vo never drop start a saw. First thing i was taught.
wtf is he cutting on the ground lol
Why would you cut that monster tree down? It's surrounded by good young trees that haven't taken hundreds of years to grow...cut them down! Leave the monsters or there won't be any more on this planet. SMH. Even if it's dead it's great for other species in the forest.
for the safety of these hardworking people, very dangerous to be working around
You are not the sharpest tool in the shed I see