That's neat and all that you say no collisions while you're removed the entire rear end that was colliding lol. So do you just fabricate a newer rear end that sits higher or is angled to avoid the linkage?
Thank you I only did this 12 hours ago last night and went to bed straight after. I'm yet to look at what the seat resolution and light is. As for travel. Master is 80mm - 10mm from 2 rubbers making ~70mm With flipped setup the factory shock can move the full 70mm range better than before. I'm really more interested in looking at the extreme because it was kind of relevant to this.
Where do you get this model you're using to analyse the suspension? You created it yourself? I'd love to have a look at this myself. Very interesting video!
Also, i'd note it looks like your change makes the shock a lot more linear. The odd movement in the stock configuration will make the shock more progressive - ie. harder to bottom out - at a particular pressure, while your config makes the whole travel mostly linear (except for right at the very end), so it's probably going to be hard to get a good amount of sag without also blowing through the entire shock travel on a drop or jump. You can sort of see this in how easily you bottom the shock with your 150psi test at the end. Mostly speculation, feel free to correct me if I'm reading it wrong!
@@jc84com Hard labour indeed. Been measuring up various things on my Master to print up a solid set of top armour for it and learning a CAD program along the way. It's a lot of work. Don't even know how you'd go about modelling the suspension motion etc. Took me long enough as it is to do basic measurements, let alone what you've got going :) Re: jumping, the master is competent enough for most things. I guess I'm not exactly doing huge leaps or drops on it though.. (yet, at least). I wonder what the travel looks like on the hard setting, as that's how i've set up my master currently, and it takes about 200psi to get acceptable sag (~15-20%). Takes 0.5m drops and jumps reasonably well like that. Can you graph the change in the shock travel between the 3 different geometries? (soft, hard, your setup?) Not sure if that's possible or a lot of work, but I think it'd be great info to have.
Read up more at
forum.electricunicycle.org/topic/35144-master-v4-50s-linkage-suspension-ratio-movement-geometry-overview/
Great video Julian 🙏
Bloody genius!!! I don't ride begode at the moment but stumbled across your video..
Can't believe they didn't figure that out!!!💪💪💪👊👊👊🤣🤣👀👀👀👍👍👀👍👍👊💪💪😅😅😅
Nice🎉
Hi, where did you get that front handle? Looks awesome
Custom. Still working on it for how the light fits in.
I just purchased hoopite linkage for my master its yet to come
Hoopite makes some great linkages
That's neat and all that you say no collisions while you're removed the entire rear end that was colliding lol. So do you just fabricate a newer rear end that sits higher or is angled to avoid the linkage?
Yes so true.
I think just a small riser legs on the seat plate will be enough to remove the collisions for the seat and the rear brake light.
I have resolved this now. Made a small riser plate 23mm at the rear. And sloped, looks good with no collisions.
I’ve given up on Begode’s suspension and went w the Lynx.
A fantastic choice for deep pockets.
I'm a poor man with lots of time.
Where did you get this madmax boots ?
Forma Adventure Low ?
@@jc84com thanks . it's what they are called ?
cool video so will.have longer travel this way.? ..what have you done with the tailight afterwords?
Thank you I only did this 12 hours ago last night and went to bed straight after.
I'm yet to look at what the seat resolution and light is.
As for travel. Master is 80mm - 10mm from 2 rubbers making ~70mm
With flipped setup the factory shock can move the full 70mm range better than before.
I'm really more interested in looking at the extreme because it was kind of relevant to this.
Made a small sloped 23mm riser plate
Tail light installed
No collisions
Where do you get this model you're using to analyse the suspension? You created it yourself? I'd love to have a look at this myself.
Very interesting video!
Also, i'd note it looks like your change makes the shock a lot more linear. The odd movement in the stock configuration will make the shock more progressive - ie. harder to bottom out - at a particular pressure, while your config makes the whole travel mostly linear (except for right at the very end), so it's probably going to be hard to get a good amount of sag without also blowing through the entire shock travel on a drop or jump. You can sort of see this in how easily you bottom the shock with your 150psi test at the end.
Mostly speculation, feel free to correct me if I'm reading it wrong!
I mostly agree,
but it's a master with 80mm of travel. On paper but reality its 70mm
very minimal travel. I would not jump on this wheel.
I draw myself from photo and calipers measurements. Hard labour
@@jc84com Hard labour indeed. Been measuring up various things on my Master to print up a solid set of top armour for it and learning a CAD program along the way. It's a lot of work. Don't even know how you'd go about modelling the suspension motion etc.
Took me long enough as it is to do basic measurements, let alone what you've got going :)
Re: jumping, the master is competent enough for most things. I guess I'm not exactly doing huge leaps or drops on it though.. (yet, at least). I wonder what the travel looks like on the hard setting, as that's how i've set up my master currently, and it takes about 200psi to get acceptable sag (~15-20%). Takes 0.5m drops and jumps reasonably well like that.
Can you graph the change in the shock travel between the 3 different geometries? (soft, hard, your setup?) Not sure if that's possible or a lot of work, but I think it'd be great info to have.
@@jordanb722 yes I can do this
It's the same linkage as Extreme correct?
I got T4 pro but it does not comes with the same linkage as Master v4
Extreme is similar linkage, however it is different spacings. I have not tested yet. On the things to do.