G'day Mo, many moons ago I spent a few years in the middle east and did a few trips to "The Empty Quarter" (Rub' al Khali ٱلرُّبْع ٱلْخَالِي)...anyhow one time managed to get ourselves bogged just like this and even though we were literally a hundred km's from anywhere, a few Bedouin appeared and showed us this trick....so thankful
It’s great to see a channel giving four wheel drivers basic self recovery ideas to getting them out of these situations, crawl, steering control, maxtrax they are all great techniques thanks for the great videos and keep them coming!
BibiBosh He's a champ, isn't he ? have you heard that he isn't doing these videos any more ? He announced it on his last video posted around beginning of 2020. What a shame. I really loved his videos, his enthusiasm, and how he covers the complete 4x4 ing scene. he reckons it was getting to be too much work, and I can believe that. Anyway, I will wade through all his videos, eventually.
Thanks mate I got stuck in a sand wash in the desert two days ago and your tips helped me get out. Not from this specific vid. but I was able to air down, dig the sand out, put large sticks under the tires for traction and I was out. Thanks you saved me mate I know I could learn that info anywhere but I heard it from you and it kept me from having a bad time. So I wanted to say thanks if you see this! You help many people! Keep doing what you do :)
Crawl control is definitely easy because you turn the dial and just wait. But "crawl control" can totally be done without having the actual feature. You nailed this! Going back and forth may help. And turning the tires left and right definitely helps. THrowing in some stick or traction boards can't hurt either.
i have another one for you to try that's always worked for me and that is to reverse trying not to spin the wheels as much as possible then go forward and keep repeating you should be able to move a little bit further each time until you can just drive out. the trick is not spinning the wheels the sand becomes packed down under the wheels and any sand under the diffs etc gets pushed away a bit more every time you move.
To simulate a diff locker or a limited slip at least in the front if you slightly press the brake pedal and maintain throttle it will stop the front spinning one wheel as the brakes will load it up and allow power transfer back to the other side
@Robert Ross yup, I have a IFS 4ed and with a limited slip in the rear and open diff in the front I can drive through anything still with a slight amount of brake pedal
I have an FJ Cruiser without crawl control and have found this technique to work better without the rear diff locked. I do however use A-track. Found this by accident when I forgot to lock my diff and got out very fast. I have now been trying to do everything with A-track and no diff lock... crazy how much faster and safer it is, especially when on uneven terrain.
In the 1970s I had a Suzuki LJ50, meaning the 540cc 3Cyl two stroke. On Newcastle bight I climbed a dune in super slow mode, in 1st gear low range. Across at right angle to path that had bogged three larger 4WD. Wheels were turning like clock work, and climb/descent was over 10min. But attempt to drive same path bogged before 10% of the climb. Super slow rotation, ie crawl control WORKS!
Crawl control does more than spin the tires slow. It goes in reverse to fill the rut with sand. Also crawl control can put power to individual wheels that have the most traction so you don't keep digging in. Crawl control doesn't always work but it does most the time.
To achieve a greater benefit I would recommend adding one more transfer case in the vehicle. When engaged you are sending your power through the transmission and through two transfer cases which lowers your crawl ratio even further. We in Iceland use this on snow wheeling and overlanding trips and it is also equipped on the Arctic Trucks in Antarctica. Only problem is that you cant send a whole lot of power through this. It is just used for extremely deep snow and slow travel when necessary.
Hello fella, thank god you made the video. I, like you thought it was gonna be either rocking the vehicle or maxx trax. Never in a million did I expect to see this technique. In theory it should be digging you deeper but wow great result. Keep up with your brilliant videos. P.S im having trouble reaching your merchandise app. Keeps saying not private but I'd really love the blue T-shirt you're advertising. Please help... Total admiration from the UK 🇬🇧
I used the CC function on my 19' 4Runner. I took it out in the SC sandhills and bogged it on a sandy firebreak trail, all the way down. Turned on crawl control and it just lifted it right out. No digging needed. I've tried the slow tire spin method on other vehicles, but getting out of sand really depends on a myriad of factors, such as 2/4wd, tire type, weight of vehicle, and if you're turtled or not.
Hi, I love this system. I have on my Tacoma Offroad (Canada) , and this is great . Before I run FJ CRUISER toyota for 10 years and I very love this truck. But the Tacoma with the Crawl Control are very useful. The Tacoma offroad 3rd gen (2019) are very good truck.
Another method is to saw the steering wheel left and right as you crawl out. Also Engage the parking brake partially to lock the rear wheels if you dont have a diff lock. This causes the side walls to bite in the sand on either side of the holes the tires are in. It works like a charm.
Done this plenty of times. Even dragged a Landcruiser towing a 20’+ boat that was stuck at Indian Head doin this. Will help if you rock it back and forward a bit without breaking traction to start as well. A technique they has been around since adam was a boy. In days gone by on old Blitzes and Land rovers they use to wind them out of bogs on the crank.
I have found what works for me no matter if it’s fwd, rwd, or awd . Put it in low gear, ease on the gas to give your tires a chance to build grip. I never floor it. I find it to work the same in flood water minus the low gear. Step crawl to keep momentum but giving the water time to move out the way with splashing it up allowing the chance for your air intake to suck it in.
Yep, Crawl control is also on the FJ Cruiser. My FJ had a factory rear diff lock, my 200 doesn’t, but feel crawl control is more effective on the 200, maybe as the brakes are bigger on the VX. Crawl control not only spins the wheels, but also brakes alternate wheels so does a similar job to what you have with diff locks (in this situation). Years ago on my old open diff FJ40, I used to feather accelerator and brakes alternately to stop the opposite wheels from simply spinning (transfer power to the others). So, it is possible to do this with open diffs and if you’re really lucky, possibly even 2WD with patience.
Its a xmas miracle ! He who paddles on water...Archangle Michael has risen the poor old Mazda chariot from the bog once again ..god i love this channel amen...
This technique works great but watch your gauges.... I've seen a handful of older vehicles doing this up until they overheat and catch fire due to limited cooling
Love your videos mate. Now you have to do one without the locker, turn the wheels and apply left foot breaking. Then you will have a mini series on getting bogged on the beach. 😜
Nice job, that's informative. I was skeptical about the crawl control videos too. Now, I have very little experience in sand, but a lot in snow. I suspect however that sand, like snow, comes in MANY different varieties. Maybe you could perform this test in a hundred different locations so we can learn where it works and where it doesn't. :) No -- well keep up the good work anyway.
How often do you wash the sand from the underside of your truck? Do you do a thorough cleaning after each trip? Thank you for all your videos, I am envious of your beautiful country and the freedom you have to drive to so many spectacular places.
Awesome!! @Watched you dig out of the last one. Less sweat, less time . . . in THIS situation lol. I run a Toyota 4 Runner and it also has crawl control. Keep 'em coming! ATB from Canada.
Crawl control, used in a lot of modern, somewhat off-road vehicles, is like ABS in reverse and uses the same hardware. If a wheel spins and it’s opposite is stationary, it applies brakes to the spinning wheel which causes the open diff to send power to the opposite wheel instead.
Use left foot braking with open diffs. Left foot on brake, hold 1200-1500 rpms with right foot and work the brake off and on slowly with left foot. Basically works the same way ATRAC works by pushing power to the weeks that have traction rather than just letting the wheels without traction spin. Works in a broad range of terrain including if you lift a wheel and can't make progress.
The sand was damp under the surface which would be a big help with this test. Damp sand is sticky giving some grip. Hot dry sand above the high tide line is another test.
That's some moist sand though..... Once your touching frame & difs, ya might as well be on jacks... Always love these videos from down under... My trick from the GLAMIS sand dunesis, once bogged, HI LIFT up, push off & out of the holes, (front & back)... Never ever used a shovel.. HI LIFT and maybe WD40 (or water) to blast sand from the jack..
I have used this technique on a 4 X 4 with a manual transmission and no locking deferential. To get around not having locking differentials I lightly applied the parking brake to shift power to the tire with traction. I don't off road but it has been handy for the odd snow drift or missplaced ditch and something I was glad to know. I enjoyed your video, thank you. And... DUDE where did you get that bull bar? It is AWESOME! I'd like to look into getting one for our Toyota Tacoma. Be well!! : -)
Toyota 4Runner Trails and TRD Pros at least from about 2010/2011 have crawl control and a electric rear differential locker as well as ATC on the IFS which while not a true locker works just like one while also allowing steering. The Tacoma Trail and TRD Pros of the same years have similar 4 wheel capabilities. I live in NY (USA) and deal more with snow and rocks/gravel then sand but can say from experience crawl control has its uses. While no tech can make up for driver skills the tech Toyota puts into their trail vehicles is helpful. While crawl can be helpful for going up hills I don’t usually use it for that but where it shines is going down it controls the speed so you can focus on driving.
You can get out even easier if you move the car back and forward. In this way you can use the pothole “walls” to ensure an inertia when moving forward.
What you said about using a manual vs automatic transmission:, I've done this in a Mitsubishi L200 diesel, just put low range and 1st gear and let the engine do the rest. Not even touch the pedal, just turn the steering slowly like one turn every 10 seconds and it works like a dream. I got bogged on a sand dunes and there were many jeeps impressed that I could get out by myself, it did take about 5 minutes and at some point I doubted it was even moving at all
Low 1st and or reverse to pack down the track and centre diff lock engaged with tyres down to 18psi with a little left right on the wheel will help on the sand, I use an older 4WD without whizz bang fancy pants electronics like TCS and it works well. If really bad a set of tracks will really help.
I did something similar with a Jeep TJ with 33x12.5 BF Goodrich Mud Terrain tyres. I did it out of frustration. I put the old Jeep in four wheel low, put it in first gear, let off the clutch and just let it idle and sat there reclined in the seat about to fall asleep. Then I started to feel some motion after a few minutes and I looked and saw I had made some progress. I sat up and let things happen and a few minutes later, the Jeep had got out.
Have used similar on beach on my own.. manual gearbox, low 1st, jump out & use the shovel to push sand into hole ( dangerous but needed to) or slip maxtrak into hole.
And then there is, for you guys with open diffs, the trick of gently applying brake while you crawl. That will slow down the spinning wheel, forcing the diff to increase torque delivered to that wheel and, since a diff always delivers the same amount of torque L and R, also increase torque to the stuck wheel on the same axle. Doesn't replace a lock but may get you out of the sticky situation. Just don't brake and crawl permanently, obviously ;-) Also understand the brake pedal overrides the throttle control on many vehicles nowadays; courtesy of the runaway Toyotas in the US several years back. So now it's 1) engage left-foot brake and afterwards 2) touch the throttle.
HaJo Schatz haha just posted about this above...but I hadn’t thought about the disengaging of the throttle. Good point. I’ll put that one into the memory bank. Been using the technique since my FJ40 25 years ago.
@@PhilTaylorPhotog Ignorant poster here, not reading other's comments before adding his own 0.01 cents; sorry for that :-) But yes, a 25 y/o FJ40 unlikely has that safety feature, it only became fashionable some 10-15 years ago after Toyota lost a bundle in the US due to what turned out being floor mats slipping onto the accelerator.
Hi from Russia. We use the same technique to crawl out of deep snow. It is better to have low range kit in your transfer case for this trick. And I think it starts to work from certain tyre size for certain vehicle - The large the easier
This has a lot to do with the "traction control" systems in the new cars braking the wheels that are slipping and allowing the ones with momentary traction to grab as required. My new Navara does the same thing, I no longer get out and dig like I previously did in older 4x4s, I just sit in the aircon and wait for it to crawl out. And yes for most cars it still works even when you turn the traction control off, as you arent actually disengaging all the traction systems just primarily the throttle retardation when the car detects slippage.
Benny Banger Yes, Toyota’s crawl control can to a certain extent, but in this case it is more effective because it’s building a hardened ramp in front of the wheels...in mud not so much, but it depends on the type of mud.
Does work the key is having aggressive tires and locking differentials, especially tires with aggressive edge tread and slowly shaking the wheel to either side so that you're clawing against the sides of the ruts instead of the bottom. Lock your diffs, and find the right RPM for wheel speed and you'll just claw slowly along dragging through mud up to your frame. Eventually you'll gain enough momentum to drag yourself back up out of your own ruts like a boat slowly climbing up its own bow wave onto plane. Then once you're their stick to that speed. I've driven 2wd trucks with GVWRs over 12000kg down mud-pit access roads using the technique.
Nice one, i noticed this with my 4x4 canter on the beach. can just put low 1st no pedal input and it would just slowly jiggle its way out of anything. very cool. aso my V6 pajero manual, but doesnt have the low gears like my canter.
it's a long known trick of people in the US southeast. Mostly in mud but sand too. If you've got aggressive tires and decent horsepower you can just slowly claw your way forward even if you've dug yourself in to where you're dragging your frame. I've taken class 6 to 8 straight trucks down miles of dirt road turned to nigh bottomless mud pit that way. Find the right engine and wheel speed and you will slowly crawl forward on sheer momentum and the little bit of traction you can get even 2wd trucks (obviously all wheels driving helps).
Landrover Defender has an antistall in low first and second. You can take you foot of the clutch and it will drive itself without throttle. This allows you to hope out, gab a cold beer and throw a few sticks under the wheels. You don’t travel far if you beach the belly (diffs n gearbox) in the sand!
Why would this be more difficult with a manual transmission ? What I would do with my Tacoma is, 1st gear, low range, lock rear axle (no front locker) and hopefully idle out. Might give A-trac a go to.
Thanks for your research and development videos 😉 Always get some useful bit of info out of watching and then going out and having a go myself. Keep em coming!
Good video for beginners but this applies mostly to newer heavier version of 4x4 vehicles . The older single cab tacoma or jeeps can ride right over the soft stuff. Also you can always take your floor mats out and use them to get traction. Beware this technique on a really hot day while off-roading can cause your automatic transmission to over heat. Especially when you have already been romping around.
The video from Toyota I saw on their crawl control had the tires slowly turn forward, then slowly turn in reverse, and then repeat several times. The idea being that you drag sand down under the tire without ejecting it.
The mistake a lot of ppl make in sand is they get impatient and try gun it... That's when you end up with the chassis on the ground and the wheels free spinning in holes
after you had moved fwd a metre I reckon had you back tracked at that point then that one metre may have been enough to get you rolling....if not, then back to the grind You had your tyres at 20 psi simply because you couldn't bog yourself at ten.....love that......makes me wonder if you had then dropped them to ten how much quicker would it have been?
I've got an old 2001 MK Triton, V6 3L petrol. I was on a steep uphill on the beach needing to get back up on the track and behind me was water. 4 low and 1st gear, I slowly took my foot off the clutch and let it really do the rest itself no difficulty
Arabic viewer here, we use this technique A LOT but you must gently turn your front wheels right and left. It will make all the difference
Yes, shaking steering wheel will get you out way faster
G'day Mo, many moons ago I spent a few years in the middle east and did a few trips to "The Empty Quarter" (Rub' al Khali ٱلرُّبْع ٱلْخَالِي)...anyhow one time managed to get ourselves bogged just like this and even though we were literally a hundred km's from anywhere, a few Bedouin appeared and showed us this trick....so thankful
Here's a good example of this technique.
ruclips.net/video/_9mmajFmVcc/видео.html
Northern Michigan USA is mostly sand, slow and easy with gentle steering is the way I was taught as a child
@@Ulbre keeping the rpm between 1000 and 1500
If you keep turning right and left while you’re doing that, you will come out faster. Cheers from Dubai
I trust you to know about sand.
hoilst 😅🤣
Noted, haha!
Another cheers from Dubai✌🏼
Driving in deep snow, do the same thing if you get stuck! ;-) from Norway
I love that you try different things and then put the results up for everyone to see .... thanks
An old technique. The army taught this to my Dad in the forties. Along with rocking backwards and forwards in the hole. Always worked for him. 👍
@mvubu1234 lol You got that right
@mvubu1234 Best comment ever!
It’s great to see a channel giving four wheel drivers basic self recovery ideas to getting them out of these situations, crawl, steering control, maxtrax they are all great techniques thanks for the great videos and keep them coming!
You know what I love about 4wd’ing.
Happy people like this guy.
BibiBosh
He's a champ, isn't he ? have you heard that he isn't doing these videos any more ? He announced it on his last video posted around beginning of 2020. What a shame. I really loved his videos, his enthusiasm, and how he covers the complete 4x4 ing scene. he reckons it was getting to be too much work, and I can believe that. Anyway, I will wade through all his videos, eventually.
Thanks mate I got stuck in a sand wash in the desert two days ago and your tips helped me get out. Not from this specific vid. but I was able to air down, dig the sand out, put large sticks under the tires for traction and I was out. Thanks you saved me mate I know I could learn that info anywhere but I heard it from you and it kept me from having a bad time. So I wanted to say thanks if you see this! You help many people! Keep doing what you do :)
Crawl control is definitely easy because you turn the dial and just wait. But "crawl control" can totally be done without having the actual feature.
You nailed this! Going back and forth may help. And turning the tires left and right definitely helps. THrowing in some stick or traction boards can't hurt either.
i have another one for you to try that's always worked for me and that is to reverse trying not to spin the wheels as much as possible then go forward and keep repeating you should be able to move a little bit further each time until you can just drive out. the trick is not spinning the wheels the sand becomes packed down under the wheels and any sand under the diffs etc gets pushed away a bit more every time you move.
Awesome video!! I learned something new as well, and will put that in my box of tools.
Yep love my FJs crawl control function. Rarely used and some say it's a gimmick but when needed it's a doozy! :)
YEAH top stuff the crawl choke , had this in an old nissan swb 6 cylinder 4 X 4 . you can get out and walk with the vehicle . old school is great .
Do the same thing but slowly turn the wheel left and right. You get the same result but much quicker
Wow I thought you were going to get even more bogged just really slowly.
To simulate a diff locker or a limited slip at least in the front if you slightly press the brake pedal and maintain throttle it will stop the front spinning one wheel as the brakes will load it up and allow power transfer back to the other side
@Robert Ross yup, I have a IFS 4ed and with a limited slip in the rear and open diff in the front I can drive through anything still with a slight amount of brake pedal
I have an FJ Cruiser without crawl control and have found this technique to work better without the rear diff locked. I do however use A-track. Found this by accident when I forgot to lock my diff and got out very fast. I have now been trying to do everything with A-track and no diff lock... crazy how much faster and safer it is, especially when on uneven terrain.
I'm so glad u too didn't expect to get out WOW. Another fantastic video. Thanks
I like the myth busting approach 👍
In the 1970s I had a Suzuki LJ50, meaning the 540cc 3Cyl two stroke. On Newcastle bight I climbed a dune in super slow mode, in 1st gear low range. Across at right angle to path that had bogged three larger 4WD. Wheels were turning like clock work, and climb/descent was over 10min. But attempt to drive same path bogged before 10% of the climb. Super slow rotation, ie crawl control WORKS!
I was sceptical too! Very impressive. Have you done a video on what’s the best side to put an awning on? Cheers.
i would have thought the non-road side. this way you can have a quick lunch out of the weather while traveling.
Crawl control does more than spin the tires slow. It goes in reverse to fill the rut with sand. Also crawl control can put power to individual wheels that have the most traction so you don't keep digging in. Crawl control doesn't always work but it does most the time.
To achieve a greater benefit I would recommend adding one more transfer case in the vehicle. When engaged you are sending your power through the transmission and through two transfer cases which lowers your crawl ratio even further. We in Iceland use this on snow wheeling and overlanding trips and it is also equipped on the Arctic Trucks in Antarctica. Only problem is that you cant send a whole lot of power through this. It is just used for extremely deep snow and slow travel when necessary.
The beauty of the system is that it allows you to get out and dig around each tyre as it's working to extradite itself . . .☆
Really awesome technique , cheers for showing us that one
Something to remember. I found really low tyre pressure 13 psi and careful driving worked well on the beach. Thanks
Hello fella, thank god you made the video. I, like you thought it was gonna be either rocking the vehicle or maxx trax. Never in a million did I expect to see this technique. In theory it should be digging you deeper but wow great result. Keep up with your brilliant videos. P.S im having trouble reaching your merchandise app. Keeps saying not private but I'd really love the blue T-shirt you're advertising. Please help... Total admiration from the UK 🇬🇧
Wow im blown away. Thank you for that!
Really good Lsd makes a weekend better ;)
big love from saudi arabia 🇸🇦. just adjust the tires pressure to 20 psi or 18. then turn the steering left to right when you crawling out.
I don’t know why ur video popped up on my feed but u got a new subscriber here. I enjoyed ur video.
I used the CC function on my 19' 4Runner. I took it out in the SC sandhills and bogged it on a sandy firebreak trail, all the way down. Turned on crawl control and it just lifted it right out. No digging needed. I've tried the slow tire spin method on other vehicles, but getting out of sand really depends on a myriad of factors, such as 2/4wd, tire type, weight of vehicle, and if you're turtled or not.
AND of course tire PSI like you said at the end Michael! hah
Another fantastic video Michael
Hi, I love this system. I have on my Tacoma Offroad (Canada) , and this is great . Before I run FJ CRUISER toyota for 10 years and I very love this truck. But the Tacoma with the Crawl Control are very useful. The Tacoma offroad 3rd gen (2019) are very good truck.
Another method is to saw the steering wheel left and right as you crawl out. Also Engage the parking brake partially to lock the rear wheels if you dont have a diff lock. This causes the side walls to bite in the sand on either side of the holes the tires are in. It works like a charm.
Whoa, that was pretty awesome. Sand is tricky stuff. Thanks for the cool video!
I have been wondering this for some time now. Thanks for testing it out.
Done this plenty of times. Even dragged a Landcruiser towing a 20’+ boat that was stuck at Indian Head doin this. Will help if you rock it back and forward a bit without breaking traction to start as well. A technique they has been around since adam was a boy. In days gone by on old Blitzes and Land rovers they use to wind them out of bogs on the crank.
I have an FJ Cruiser with crawl control, works fantastically
I have found what works for me no matter if it’s fwd, rwd, or awd . Put it in low gear, ease on the gas to give your tires a chance to build grip. I never floor it. I find it to work the same in flood water minus the low gear. Step crawl to keep momentum but giving the water time to move out the way with splashing it up allowing the chance for your air intake to suck it in.
Yep, Crawl control is also on the FJ Cruiser. My FJ had a factory rear diff lock, my 200 doesn’t, but feel crawl control is more effective on the 200, maybe as the brakes are bigger on the VX. Crawl control not only spins the wheels, but also brakes alternate wheels so does a similar job to what you have with diff locks (in this situation). Years ago on my old open diff FJ40, I used to feather accelerator and brakes alternately to stop the opposite wheels from simply spinning (transfer power to the others). So, it is possible to do this with open diffs and if you’re really lucky, possibly even 2WD with patience.
Its a xmas miracle ! He who paddles on water...Archangle Michael has risen the poor old Mazda chariot from the bog once again ..god i love this channel amen...
Even quicker if you are on a slope and go down. I lived in the UAE and used this technique often. Good party trick.
wow love your vids man, I know this is not one of your newer ones, but a top one. Keep it up. Cheers.
This technique works great but watch your gauges.... I've seen a handful of older vehicles doing this up until they overheat and catch fire due to limited cooling
Great video man, I could of used this 15 years ago when I almost lost my TJ in the ocean as the tide came in.
Love your videos mate. Now you have to do one without the locker, turn the wheels and apply left foot breaking. Then you will have a mini series on getting bogged on the beach. 😜
Nice job, that's informative. I was skeptical about the crawl control videos too.
Now, I have very little experience in sand, but a lot in snow. I suspect however that sand, like snow, comes in MANY different varieties. Maybe you could perform this test in a hundred different locations so we can learn where it works and where it doesn't. :) No -- well keep up the good work anyway.
I'd like to see you try same thing but turning the wheel left and right like a lot of the comments are suggesting. Cheers!
How often do you wash the sand from the underside of your truck? Do you do a thorough cleaning after each trip?
Thank you for all your videos, I am envious of your beautiful country and the freedom you have to drive to so many spectacular places.
Awesome!! @Watched you dig out of the last one. Less sweat, less time . . . in THIS situation lol. I run a Toyota 4 Runner and it also has crawl control. Keep 'em coming! ATB from Canada.
Should try it in real soft dry sand next. Keen to see how that goes 👍
Crawl control, used in a lot of modern, somewhat off-road vehicles, is like ABS in reverse and uses the same hardware. If a wheel spins and it’s opposite is stationary, it applies brakes to the spinning wheel which causes the open diff to send power to the opposite wheel instead.
I swear half the time you go out just to get bogged 😂😂😂😅😅.
He does it all the time..😂
In Australia it is the other away around. Most people who get bogged swear half the time.
Dave's Shed I see what you did there bud ✌️😅
I think he does it so that when he accidentally bogs in, anyone watching will assume he intended it... 😉
Well thats the way you learn isnt it !
Use left foot braking with open diffs. Left foot on brake, hold 1200-1500 rpms with right foot and work the brake off and on slowly with left foot. Basically works the same way ATRAC works by pushing power to the weeks that have traction rather than just letting the wheels without traction spin. Works in a broad range of terrain including if you lift a wheel and can't make progress.
The sand was damp under the surface which would be a big help with this test. Damp sand is sticky giving some grip. Hot dry sand above the high tide line is another test.
That's some moist sand though..... Once your touching frame & difs, ya might as well be on jacks... Always love these videos from down under... My trick from the GLAMIS sand dunesis, once bogged, HI LIFT up, push off & out of the holes, (front & back)... Never ever used a shovel.. HI LIFT and maybe WD40 (or water) to blast sand from the jack..
I have used this technique on a 4 X 4 with a manual transmission and no locking deferential. To get around not having locking differentials I lightly applied the parking brake to shift power to the tire with traction. I don't off road but it has been handy for the odd snow drift or missplaced ditch and something I was glad to know. I enjoyed your video, thank you. And... DUDE where did you get that bull bar? It is AWESOME! I'd like to look into getting one for our Toyota Tacoma. Be well!!
: -)
Toyota 4Runner Trails and TRD Pros at least from about 2010/2011 have crawl control and a electric rear differential locker as well as ATC on the IFS which while not a true locker works just like one while also allowing steering. The Tacoma Trail and TRD Pros of the same years have similar 4 wheel capabilities. I live in NY (USA) and deal more with snow and rocks/gravel then sand but can say from experience crawl control has its uses. While no tech can make up for driver skills the tech Toyota puts into their trail vehicles is helpful. While crawl can be helpful for going up hills I don’t usually use it for that but where it shines is going down it controls the speed so you can focus on driving.
You can get out even easier if you move the car back and forward. In this way you can use the pothole “walls” to ensure an inertia when moving forward.
Good work Michael. For some reason I don't think my rig will ever do that.
What you said about using a manual vs automatic transmission:, I've done this in a Mitsubishi L200 diesel, just put low range and 1st gear and let the engine do the rest. Not even touch the pedal, just turn the steering slowly like one turn every 10 seconds and it works like a dream. I got bogged on a sand dunes and there were many jeeps impressed that I could get out by myself, it did take about 5 minutes and at some point I doubted it was even moving at all
Good stuff mate! I don't even fwd but love the videos, always entertaining and inspires me to get into it. Thanks
ItsYourBoiMax just get out there...you’ll learn as you go and love it.
I will definitely be interesting to see if that would work for snow.
It will just slowly steer left and right also helps to rock back and forth if possible
Low 1st and or reverse to pack down the track and centre diff lock engaged with tyres down to 18psi with a little left right on the wheel will help on the sand, I use an older 4WD without whizz bang fancy pants electronics like TCS and it works well. If really bad a set of tracks will really help.
Nice one Micheal great video again 👍😎🇳🇿
Your a bloody champion mate
I have been driving off road for decades, but I learned something from this video, I learned that I want a hat just like that.
Mate, great tip and you proved it - thanks.
I did something similar with a Jeep TJ with 33x12.5 BF Goodrich Mud Terrain tyres. I did it out of frustration. I put the old Jeep in four wheel low, put it in first gear, let off the clutch and just let it idle and sat there reclined in the seat about to fall asleep. Then I started to feel some motion after a few minutes and I looked and saw I had made some progress. I sat up and let things happen and a few minutes later, the Jeep had got out.
Impressive and certainly useful technique to try. Will it work in mud as well?
Have used similar on beach on my own.. manual gearbox, low 1st, jump out & use the shovel to push sand into hole ( dangerous but needed to) or slip maxtrak into hole.
Who would have thought!! Very cool!
And then there is, for you guys with open diffs, the trick of gently applying brake while you crawl. That will slow down the spinning wheel, forcing the diff to increase torque delivered to that wheel and, since a diff always delivers the same amount of torque L and R, also increase torque to the stuck wheel on the same axle. Doesn't replace a lock but may get you out of the sticky situation. Just don't brake and crawl permanently, obviously ;-)
Also understand the brake pedal overrides the throttle control on many vehicles nowadays; courtesy of the runaway Toyotas in the US several years back. So now it's 1) engage left-foot brake and afterwards 2) touch the throttle.
HaJo Schatz haha just posted about this above...but I hadn’t thought about the disengaging of the throttle. Good point. I’ll put that one into the memory bank. Been using the technique since my FJ40 25 years ago.
@@PhilTaylorPhotog Ignorant poster here, not reading other's comments before adding his own 0.01 cents; sorry for that :-) But yes, a 25 y/o FJ40 unlikely has that safety feature, it only became fashionable some 10-15 years ago after Toyota lost a bundle in the US due to what turned out being floor mats slipping onto the accelerator.
Hi from Russia. We use the same technique to crawl out of deep snow. It is better to have low range kit in your transfer case for this trick. And I think it starts to work from certain tyre size for certain vehicle - The large the easier
This has a lot to do with the "traction control" systems in the new cars braking the wheels that are slipping and allowing the ones with momentary traction to grab as required. My new Navara does the same thing, I no longer get out and dig like I previously did in older 4x4s, I just sit in the aircon and wait for it to crawl out. And yes for most cars it still works even when you turn the traction control off, as you arent actually disengaging all the traction systems just primarily the throttle retardation when the car detects slippage.
Excellent - thanks. Can "crawl control" work in mud?
Benny Banger Yes, Toyota’s crawl control can to a certain extent, but in this case it is more effective because it’s building a hardened ramp in front of the wheels...in mud not so much, but it depends on the type of mud.
@@PhilTaylorPhotog Thanks Phil. Question answered.
Thanks, not that our 4x4 XLT Rangers hit the sand but this might also work for soft soil / mud.
Does work the key is having aggressive tires and locking differentials, especially tires with aggressive edge tread and slowly shaking the wheel to either side so that you're clawing against the sides of the ruts instead of the bottom. Lock your diffs, and find the right RPM for wheel speed and you'll just claw slowly along dragging through mud up to your frame. Eventually you'll gain enough momentum to drag yourself back up out of your own ruts like a boat slowly climbing up its own bow wave onto plane. Then once you're their stick to that speed. I've driven 2wd trucks with GVWRs over 12000kg down mud-pit access roads using the technique.
You apply the park brake about 1/2 way. Air down the tires. Turn the steering wheel back and forth. That applies pressure to the spinning sidewalls.
Finally someone with a 4x4 has stumbled upon a basic principle of physics that does not involve reving the crap out of an engine.
I thought there was no chance of that working haha. Well done
Nice one, i noticed this with my 4x4 canter on the beach. can just put low 1st no pedal input and it would just slowly jiggle its way out of anything. very cool. aso my V6 pajero manual, but doesnt have the low gears like my canter.
If you turn the steering wheel to the far right and the far left quickly, it will be easier and faster . Good job .. thank you 👍
it's a long known trick of people in the US southeast. Mostly in mud but sand too. If you've got aggressive tires and decent horsepower you can just slowly claw your way forward even if you've dug yourself in to where you're dragging your frame. I've taken class 6 to 8 straight trucks down miles of dirt road turned to nigh bottomless mud pit that way. Find the right engine and wheel speed and you will slowly crawl forward on sheer momentum and the little bit of traction you can get even 2wd trucks (obviously all wheels driving helps).
Landrover Defender has an antistall in low first and second. You can take you foot of the clutch and it will drive itself without throttle. This allows you to hope out, gab a cold beer and throw a few sticks under the wheels. You don’t travel far if you beach the belly (diffs n gearbox) in the sand!
Nice mate ! From Texas
Thank you so much for making that video. That was most informative!!
A short video with a ton off information. Thanks.
Thanks for another great video legend 👍🏻
Why would this be more difficult with a manual transmission ? What I would do with my Tacoma is, 1st gear, low range, lock rear axle (no front locker) and hopefully idle out. Might give A-trac a go to.
Thanks for your research and development videos 😉 Always get some useful bit of info out of watching and then going out and having a go myself. Keep em coming!
Good video for beginners but this applies mostly to newer heavier version of 4x4 vehicles . The older single cab tacoma or jeeps can ride right over the soft stuff. Also you can always take your floor mats out and use them to get traction. Beware this technique on a really hot day while off-roading can cause your automatic transmission to over heat. Especially when you have already been romping around.
The video from Toyota I saw on their crawl control had the tires slowly turn forward, then slowly turn in reverse, and then repeat several times. The idea being that you drag sand down under the tire without ejecting it.
Surprised! Thanks for sharing mate..
Bog deep brother!!! As Cleetus McFarland would say
If you don't have diff lock - you can pull up the hand brake just enough to put resistance on the spinning wheels.
This technique works on any 4wd, with lockers or without it, tried it a few times today with my 1997 Nissan Navara D22....
The mistake a lot of ppl make in sand is they get impatient and try gun it... That's when you end up with the chassis on the ground and the wheels free spinning in holes
after you had moved fwd a metre I reckon had you back tracked at that point then that one metre may have been enough to get you rolling....if not, then back to the grind
You had your tyres at 20 psi simply because you couldn't bog yourself at ten.....love that......makes me wonder if you had then dropped them to ten how much quicker would it have been?
That’s amazingly, good video
Crawl control really works. Specially in sand.
I've got an old 2001 MK Triton, V6 3L petrol. I was on a steep uphill on the beach needing to get back up on the track and behind me was water. 4 low and 1st gear, I slowly took my foot off the clutch and let it really do the rest itself no difficulty