I had 224K miles on my MK6 GTI before the plastic factory pump had a thermostat failure. The pump itself was fine. Of course since I was removing everything to get to the thermostat, replacing the pump seemed sensible. I called a very popular online VW/AUDI parts supplier to make sure I was buying the correct 2013 CBFA pump for my car. The rep told me he'd recommend "their" aluminum housing made by Bremmen. Since it less expensive and recommended I took his advice and ordered it. When it arrived it was for a CCTA application. How does this happen? I called them, they took care of me, but this time I told them, "Just send me the factory CBFA pump". So that's what I installed and it's working great (as expected). Hopefully I get some trouble free use out of it, like I did the first.
Hey, I just wanted to say thank you for the videos. I have a mk6 gti, and seeing your videos made me want to make a channel of my own for mk6 content. My only video right now is driving a twisty road but I'm hoping to start doing mod videos soon!
The reason why that water pump has an additional electrical sensor is because there is an ozone sensor that goes attached in front of the radiator for the cbfa engine. Volkswagen did this for the state of California to get emission credits. The reason why I know all this is cuz I am dealing with this issue at the moment. I replaced the radiator with the aftermarket aluminum and created an Ozone sensor from a Mercedes since it's only a three pinout and same color scheme. And now I installed OEM radiator that comes with the ozone sensor. Keep in mind, in order to buy the sensor you have to buy the OEM radiator from a Volkswagen dealership. Even with an oem radiator, this did not take care of the code. So now I have to replace a good working water pump because somehow the electrical temperature sensor or the thermostat is not matching the temperature values from the ozone sensor. To me it seems like if you change one you have to change both because both of these values communicate with the computer and they compare both values and see if they're matching. If they're not matching, it will throw you a code. I hate Volkswagen and their parts are not cheap and you can just ask any mechanic from the street you would have to get a specialist "European mechanic". How fancy!
Had a hell of a time ordering it even when you put the correct information in it still says it’s interchangeable. I can’t find this electrical outlet on any schematic on any damn one I order except for the thermostat which they all have a wire for that.
Darn I should have watched your video before the same thing happened to me getting the CCTA aluminum pump only to find out my mechanic found the secondary CBFA pump sensor 🥲 now getting the apparently “revised” plastic ceramic reinforced pump
Is there a video out on how to do this, I recently changed my water pump for an aluminum one and replaced the secondary pump. Now my hazard lights go on & off without me pressing the button. Headlights, fog lights and tail lights flickering and key not locking/unlocking car. Its not even letting my OBD2 scanner read the ECU.
Paid someone to install my water pump and didn’t know this, they didn’t tell me. 2 months later I’m replacing my fuel pressure sensor and see a plug that is disconnected and after hours of digging this was the issue. 🤦♂️
Happy to help even if it is a bit late! Yes, it can be rather confusing. I still have the aluminum pump for when this new plastic one goes out and I'll just get the sensor that's unplugged coded out.
So, finally having watched the video....what stopping someone from removing the water neck, drilling a hole and using a tap to install the sensor into the aluminum one? Seems pretty doable to me.
Wait so is that water pump viable for a 2010 gti? I was told that the timing belt and water pumps were a common issue I should look into after market parts.
Yes, this is the water pump for 2010 GTIs. They’re a big issue for 2010 and 2011 model years so a lot upgrade to aluminum. The issue I ran into was that I have a CBFA engine and not CCTA. My engine has more emissions regulation stuff on it and one of those is on the water pump. It’s a connector that the aluminum water pump upgrades don’t have so now I just have a spare water pump.
@@TheParkingLotMechanic beautiful thank you, love your videos man I know the full time job and finding time to work on car grind isn't easy. We do appreciate it though.
I think engine code is based on state emissions requirements not model year. Mine is a 2014 from Florida and is CCTA. If you’re was from California or the north-east us, it’s likely CBFA. It’s less than 10 states that required it during the mk6 model years
I was looking at this too when i first got my 2010. The shop that did my carbon cleaning never gave me clarification on which type of housing I have. Im assuming it will go bad at any time.
They both take them. Just gotta remove the flange on the end and replace it with the plastic cbfa one if you got cbfa. It would be a hybrid of alluminum and plastic. What matters is the housing the flange can be swapped out to the electric one, its only 2 bolts
@@michaeldeoliveira7689so from experience this is possible but needs to be modified, the connections dont fit perfectly but can be trimmed to fit and bolt together.
Unfortunately I have a CBFA engine so the aluminum one didn’t fit :( needed an extra sensor. And even after posting this, I’m learning more about CBFA being a California thing with emissions. So this video is already outdated XD
You could. With skills and time a lot is possible. Easiest solution is just swap in the aluminum up and either add a dummy plug to that emissions sensor or just leave it unplugged and code it out. I even kept the aluminum one to do that when this plastic one inevitably busts.
Running mine with that exact same issue and don’t run into any problems but check engine light stays no matter what but car doesn’t overheat and seems to work better when I check temps on my scanner, if there’s a resistor out there it would be a life saver!
I figured you could do that! Almost told the shop to still put it in and not get another one. Might just hold onto this one cause we know it’ll need one eventually
the water pump sucks!!!!!! unfortunately I have the CBFA because I live in Cali and had to use the oem plastic pump...Just FYI if you decide to upgrade your radiator to an aftermarket you gonna need the censor that connects to the front of it so you won't throw a code...that is if you decide to upgrade to an all aluminum radiator. You might get lucky and reuse the old censor but from what I hear people break them really easily when trying to take it off the old radiator.
Gotta love factory compromises! Radiator for my current goals isn't necessary but I'll for sure keep that in mind! When I go full on it, I'll be sure to do it right with proper cooling too. Thanks!
I had 224K miles on my MK6 GTI before the plastic factory pump had a thermostat failure. The pump itself was fine. Of course since I was removing everything to get to the thermostat, replacing the pump seemed sensible. I called a very popular online VW/AUDI parts supplier to make sure I was buying the correct 2013 CBFA pump for my car. The rep told me he'd recommend "their" aluminum housing made by Bremmen. Since it less expensive and recommended I took his advice and ordered it. When it arrived it was for a CCTA application. How does this happen?
I called them, they took care of me, but this time I told them, "Just send me the factory CBFA pump". So that's what I installed and it's working great (as expected). Hopefully I get some trouble free use out of it, like I did the first.
Hey, I just wanted to say thank you for the videos. I have a mk6 gti, and seeing your videos made me want to make a channel of my own for mk6 content. My only video right now is driving a twisty road but I'm hoping to start doing mod videos soon!
Thank you so much! And go for it! Make those videos! I know I'll be watching :)
The reason why that water pump has an additional electrical sensor is because there is an ozone sensor that goes attached in front of the radiator for the cbfa engine. Volkswagen did this for the state of California to get emission credits. The reason why I know all this is cuz I am dealing with this issue at the moment. I replaced the radiator with the aftermarket aluminum and created an Ozone sensor from a Mercedes since it's only a three pinout and same color scheme. And now I installed OEM radiator that comes with the ozone sensor. Keep in mind, in order to buy the sensor you have to buy the OEM radiator from a Volkswagen dealership. Even with an oem radiator, this did not take care of the code. So now I have to replace a good working water pump because somehow the electrical temperature sensor or the thermostat is not matching the temperature values from the ozone sensor. To me it seems like if you change one you have to change both because both of these values communicate with the computer and they compare both values and see if they're matching. If they're not matching, it will throw you a code. I hate Volkswagen and their parts are not cheap and you can just ask any mechanic from the street you would have to get a specialist "European mechanic". How fancy!
Had a hell of a time ordering it even when you put the correct information in it still says it’s interchangeable. I can’t find this electrical outlet on any schematic on any damn one I order except for the thermostat which they all have a wire for that.
Ecs tuning has some. That’s where I got mine. Says comes with electrical component
Does anyone know if you can run it without the sensor/ will it harm anything?
Bro I need that kit if you still have it
HEPU P681 for CBFA
Darn I should have watched your video before the same thing happened to me getting the CCTA aluminum pump only to find out my mechanic found the secondary CBFA pump sensor 🥲 now getting the apparently “revised” plastic ceramic reinforced pump
I've heard that the extra sensor can be coded out of the ecu.
Unfortunately I learned that after getting another plastic one installed XD
Is there a video out on how to do this, I recently changed my water pump for an aluminum one and replaced the secondary pump. Now my hazard lights go on & off without me pressing the button. Headlights, fog lights and tail lights flickering and key not locking/unlocking car. Its not even letting my OBD2 scanner read the ECU.
Or you can just use the old flange from the plastic one with the connector and bolt it right on
Yes but the old one's plug connects to something on the inside? @@Markedsoulofficial
Paid someone to install my water pump and didn’t know this, they didn’t tell me. 2 months later I’m replacing my fuel pressure sensor and see a plug that is disconnected and after hours of digging this was the issue. 🤦♂️
Happy to help even if it is a bit late! Yes, it can be rather confusing. I still have the aluminum pump for when this new plastic one goes out and I'll just get the sensor that's unplugged coded out.
Does leaving the sensor disconnected hurt the car in anyway? Or dies it just throw a code.
@@oWolf0 from my understanding, it just throws a code and doesn’t hurt the car. It’s something you can get programmed out too
@@TheParkingLotMechanic sweet sounds good 😁 thanks for the reply.
You can change the flange with the connector its only two bolts you get the other flange from the plastic one.
So, finally having watched the video....what stopping someone from removing the water neck, drilling a hole and using a tap to install the sensor into the aluminum one? Seems pretty doable to me.
TBH, was thinking the same thing. Someone has to have that information out there somewhere.
The electrical part you can swap onto the water pump. Its just bolted on
Wait so is that water pump viable for a 2010 gti? I was told that the timing belt and water pumps were a common issue I should look into after market parts.
Yes, this is the water pump for 2010 GTIs. They’re a big issue for 2010 and 2011 model years so a lot upgrade to aluminum. The issue I ran into was that I have a CBFA engine and not CCTA. My engine has more emissions regulation stuff on it and one of those is on the water pump. It’s a connector that the aluminum water pump upgrades don’t have so now I just have a spare water pump.
@@TheParkingLotMechanic beautiful thank you, love your videos man I know the full time job and finding time to work on car grind isn't easy. We do appreciate it though.
I think engine code is based on state emissions requirements not model year. Mine is a 2014 from Florida and is CCTA. If you’re was from California or the north-east us, it’s likely CBFA. It’s less than 10 states that required it during the mk6 model years
That is what it is.
I have a 2011 mk6 Gti will it fit
yessir
Fits both. If your cbfa just change the flange with two bolts
I was looking at this too when i first got my 2010. The shop that did my carbon cleaning never gave me clarification on which type of housing I have. Im assuming it will go bad at any time.
Sucks you didn’t get clarification. But if you need one, I’m either gonna sell the one I got or return it hahaha
It fits both. The flange can be changed with two bolts if you are cbfa
They both take them. Just gotta remove the flange on the end and replace it with the plastic cbfa one if you got cbfa. It would be a hybrid of alluminum and plastic. What matters is the housing the flange can be swapped out to the electric one, its only 2 bolts
How positive are you that it does work ?
@@michaeldeoliveira7689so from experience this is possible but needs to be modified, the connections dont fit perfectly but can be trimmed to fit and bolt together.
Where is the electrical connector physically?
Yes! I can't watch it yet, but awesome! Lol
Unfortunately I have a CBFA engine so the aluminum one didn’t fit :( needed an extra sensor. And even after posting this, I’m learning more about CBFA being a California thing with emissions. So this video is already outdated XD
@@TheParkingLotMechanic that sucks!!
It’s okay! Constantly learning!
@@TheParkingLotMechanic Me too brother!
Realistically, couldn't you just swap the plastic bit that encases the thermostat with the sensor and still run it with the aluminum waterpump?
You could. With skills and time a lot is possible. Easiest solution is just swap in the aluminum up and either add a dummy plug to that emissions sensor or just leave it unplugged and code it out. I even kept the aluminum one to do that when this plastic one inevitably busts.
Running mine with that exact same issue and don’t run into any problems but check engine light stays no matter what but car doesn’t overheat and seems to work better when I check temps on my scanner, if there’s a resistor out there it would be a life saver!
I figured you could do that! Almost told the shop to still put it in and not get another one. Might just hold onto this one cause we know it’ll need one eventually
the water pump sucks!!!!!! unfortunately I have the CBFA because I live in Cali and had to use the oem plastic pump...Just FYI if you decide to upgrade your radiator to an aftermarket you gonna need the censor that connects to the front of it so you won't throw a code...that is if you decide to upgrade to an all aluminum radiator. You might get lucky and reuse the old censor but from what I hear people break them really easily when trying to take it off the old radiator.
Gotta love factory compromises! Radiator for my current goals isn't necessary but I'll for sure keep that in mind! When I go full on it, I'll be sure to do it right with proper cooling too. Thanks!
All you had to do was replace the flange at the end to the plastic one with the sensor plug in from the old one, its two bolts
Broke mine, glued it back together. No light 🙏🏾
Love the collection of HW in the back I am a HW collector myself hit me up if your looking for anything I also do custom’s
Thanks, man! And I definitely will if I ever want a custom :)
@@TheParkingLotMechanic if you still have the water punp let me know
@@quiles351 I still have it! Hahaha
@@TheParkingLotMechanic ill buy from you whats your IG I’ll inbox you