Oh man, that's funny! I would have done the same thing if I saw that older thermostat on the wall first. Who has multiple thermostats in their house when they only have one unit? I mean, what's going on in there? - some kinda hvac tech fun house situation??? 🤣 That filter has seen better days for sure. Enjoyed the video!
100 degrees over ambient is a rule of thumb but with an old system like that , I doubt if anyone when that system was built us Superheat or Sub cooling. Another good video.
Gotta ask again, but, Where’s your ductulator? It’ll stop the guess work on the airside. Easy to use. I have a Trane physical one and one on my iPad. ACCA. 25 x 10 at 800FPM is a more than adequate opening for a 2.5 ton (1000 cfm)main return. 800 FPM is not screaming loud through the grille slats. At 750, it’ll be quieter. That round in the bottom of the return looked like 14”. That’ll be the choke point. 25 x 10 opening has the equivalent of a 17.5” round duct. Good catch on the Tstat, and return opening, though the actual true opening would have been the smallest opening of the 3. The grille, the wood opening, which was not plumb either, or the round duct at the bottom. Enjoyed the vid.
@ACSuperHeat that's hoping the static pressure is what you're saying it is, but I can feel the excessive amount just from trying to remove the air filter. I'm not saying that it's impossible, under certain statics you can make the weirdest duct dimensions work. I was taught to line the .5In of W.C on the ductulator to the desired CFM I'm trying to achieve. And from there it will give the info I need. Granted, I didn't do a static pressure test but from seeing the cleanliness of the evap coil, I know the evap coil isn't causing an air restriction and I can feel the difference in the air coming across my hand before and after that "choked" section in the floor, I'm certain that duct needs to be enlarged. It's a common issue i come across down here in my area. Especially when that's the only return in the home.
Although if I look over your original comment I do believe we are saying the same thing just might be making different points 😅 I think I just read too fast
@@AB_HVAC you get used to all the in and outs of the ductulator quickly. You cannot design at .5 inch static. If they had, the RA opening would have been 14 x 8 at a 1000 fpm, feet per minute, through the grille, it’d be so loud you couldn’t live in that house. I go by fpm and total air cfm the unit can deliver. So you’d start with the main duct, 2.5 ton does 1000 cfm. 20 x 10 main, at .10 static, then flex branches. Won’t go to deep, but you can do it. Little time and practice.
Oh man, that's funny! I would have done the same thing if I saw that older thermostat on the wall first. Who has multiple thermostats in their house when they only have one unit? I mean, what's going on in there? - some kinda hvac tech fun house situation??? 🤣
That filter has seen better days for sure.
Enjoyed the video!
Good job AB
100 degrees over ambient is a rule of thumb but with an old system like that , I doubt if anyone when that system was built us Superheat or Sub cooling. Another good video.
Thanks man, you're on a roll watching and commenting 😅
Gotta ask again, but, Where’s your ductulator? It’ll stop the guess work on the airside. Easy to use. I have a Trane physical one and one on my iPad. ACCA. 25 x 10 at 800FPM is a more than adequate opening for a 2.5 ton (1000 cfm)main return. 800 FPM is not screaming loud through the grille slats. At 750, it’ll be quieter. That round in the bottom of the return looked like 14”. That’ll be the choke point. 25 x 10 opening has the equivalent of a 17.5” round duct. Good catch on the Tstat, and return opening, though the actual true opening would have been the smallest opening of the 3. The grille, the wood opening, which was not plumb either, or the round duct at the bottom. Enjoyed the vid.
The opening is 20 x10 not 25 x 10. Ductulator is in the truck, I have a Trane and Mingledorf one.
@@AB_HVAC 20 x 10. 800 FPM through return grille. Still good. Static at .065. Good there too. 20 x 10 duct = 15” round, getting closer.
@ACSuperHeat that's hoping the static pressure is what you're saying it is, but I can feel the excessive amount just from trying to remove the air filter. I'm not saying that it's impossible, under certain statics you can make the weirdest duct dimensions work. I was taught to line the .5In of W.C on the ductulator to the desired CFM I'm trying to achieve. And from there it will give the info I need. Granted, I didn't do a static pressure test but from seeing the cleanliness of the evap coil, I know the evap coil isn't causing an air restriction and I can feel the difference in the air coming across my hand before and after that "choked" section in the floor, I'm certain that duct needs to be enlarged. It's a common issue i come across down here in my area. Especially when that's the only return in the home.
Although if I look over your original comment I do believe we are saying the same thing just might be making different points 😅 I think I just read too fast
@@AB_HVAC you get used to all the in and outs of the ductulator quickly. You cannot design at .5 inch static. If they had, the RA opening would have been 14 x 8 at a 1000 fpm, feet per minute, through the grille, it’d be so loud you couldn’t live in that house. I go by fpm and total air cfm the unit can deliver. So you’d start with the main duct, 2.5 ton does 1000 cfm. 20 x 10 main, at .10 static, then flex branches. Won’t go to deep, but you can do it. Little time and practice.