Inside some of my earliest DIY LED lamps.
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- Опубликовано: 26 авг 2024
- I made my first LED lamps a considerable time ago when there were hardly any available to buy. The cases were made from repurposed bases from compact fluorescent lamps.
The original red ones (red LEDs are super-rugged) are still going strong, even with continuous 24/7 operation.
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You ever had any strange callers late at night having a red glow in your hallway ?
Andy Wood I thought it strange that Clive made a video about Poundland condoms for his electronics hobby channel, but now that we hear that his hallway been a red light district for more than a decade, it's starting to make sense. :)
Thanks for giving me nightmares...
One of my favourite Clive videos! Something inherently cool about competently making one's own household items, especially less traditional ones.
Very interesting and a wonderful channel :)
A home brew LED lamp before the mainstream commercial ones arrived. Thanks for sharing.
Yes Clive needs more "Edison* in him.
Every room of my house has those spherical shades. Some of them may even the original ones with porcelain bases! :P
Leave a red lamp lit in the window at night for me to find my way back to you, oh those old westerns... :) Nice work on those :)
It feels good to make reliable good quality tings.
I always take my hallway lamp with me on my journeys, just kidding Clive!
Red light is handy as a nightlight, as it keeps your night vision intact and doesn't wake you up, and being in a bathroom fitting it's useful for seeing where you're going on those middle of the night trips to the throne after a spicy curry... :P
Actually, there's a teardown idea, a CFL+LED nightlight, got one of those (Osram DuLed, regular 12w CFL stick type with two cool white LEDs on the very tip and presumably some switching electronics inside) on the landing which you first switch on and it's on LED, switch off and straight on again and it's on CFL, would love to know how those work without breaking the one I have...
Quick edit - Seems the Osram DuLeds are NLA now, means I'd be a bit buggered in finding a replacement!!
***** I always thought it was green light that didnt ruin your night vision, i got that from the night vision military grade equiment that the view is always in green
jusb1066
It's all to do with the way retinas work in our eyes, they have two kinds of receptors, Cones, used for daylight sight, and Rods, used for low-light "night vision", the cones not only help us to see in daylight but also to produce hormones to say "It's daytime, time to keep your eyes open" even under artificial light when they receive enough light, it takes about 15 to 30 minutes for the rods to work fully in darkness (hence why when you first turn out the lights, everything is total darkness, but later on, you can see light in various places), and are easily swamped if you turn on a normal light and they go back to square one.
The red light factor comes in due to the fact that the Rods cannot detect red light, so aren't swamped out, but the cones can, so when your eyes are adapted to being in darkness, you can use a low-level red light (bright red lights CAN swamp out the rods, so low-level red is better) to see where you're going, but not lose your "night vision" aswell as not have the wakeywakey hormone released, so a red light for visiting the throne at night is handy to have... :)
As for military equipment and their green night vision, that's more to do with the way they enhance the available light into a visible spectrum, sticking night vision goggles over your eyes then taking them off in darkness results in them basically being blind as their rods are not adjusted to natural night vision... :)
Mandrake Fernflower
Well that happens in the Rods, as the body works via chemical interaction with all kinds of external sources, though technically it's the Retinal that has been made from beta-carotene that does the work in the eye that starts the process of light being turned into chemical and nervous signals that are sent to the brain... :)
Mandrake Fernflower The photosensitive pigment is rhodopsin or rhidopsin (don't know the spelling).
Thats pretty cool, making your own mains-powered LED lights.
i bought a gu10 lamp and put it in an old b22 cfl base. nice slimline spotlamp now.
I've done that to make directional reading lights too. It's a good result.
bigclivedotcom this one of mine is 0.72w
The LR G6SP are 625nm. It's a nice red orange color.
nice video, well explained
Hi Clive, great video - any other creations to share?
11:20 roxanne..
what is roxanne?
what is roxanne?
You don't have to put on the red light?
you don't have to sell your body tonight!
clever boy
Hi think your videos are rely good. I'm wording if it's possible you can do something on LED headlight for cars or motorbikes
I wonder if there would be a way to mechanically connect the discharge resistor only when removing a lamp from the socket.
Toni Lähdekorpi Well, one could use a depletion-MOSFET (Field effect transistor that turns on when Voltage is not applied) across the capacitor that would short it out when disconnecting the Live Voltage.
I've done that for a 6W LED driver circuit I designed and it worked great, though a 1k Resistor in series with the FET helps limiting the discharge current.
Maanuueel42 Obviously, but that's cheating ;)
Doing it purely mechanically, that's the random fun idea / challenge.
Because why not?
Toni Lähdekorpi There is a dedicated capacitor discharge component that detects loss of the mains supply and discharges the supply capacitors. It is mainly intended for applications where the capacitors are large and have to be discharged quickly for safety.
bigclivedotcom Indeed there are - the Philips/NXT TEA1708T is one such. It's more for removing the power that would be lost through a fixed discharge resistor in devices with soft power switches that spend most of the time in standby. This IC itself takes only 1mW on 230Vac.
I wonder how good the first gen 40 and 60w equivilant bulbs are doing now.
When did the first gen LED bulbs come out?
my guess late 2000s
I need help, after watching your videos it has sparked my interest in electronics again and I need the name of some books or some websites or something that can give me the theory behind electronics. I understand how components work but I don't understand why they work in whatever configuration they're in. Like for instance, if I wanted to build my own circuit to do a specific task what, components would I need to use and where do I need to put them to accomplish the task that I wnat them to do. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
The Art of Electronics has done me well. Maybe It'll do the same for you. The third edition is like 80$ on Amazon
What is the purpose of the series resistor, when the 330nF cap is already limiting the current?
***** the resistor limits the inrush current when switching the lamp on. Image switching the switch when the sine wave is right before its peak.
sarowie Thanks. Makes sense... should have thought of that myself!
***** Remember the impedance of the dropper cap decreases with frequency. Fast transients and spikes will push far more current and hence power though it than 50/60Hz mains which can (or will) take out any clamping zeners etc. on the other side. A low-value resistor in series gives them a chance plus it's usually a fusible one to give protection should the cap go s/c.
sarowie 'Fraid not. The cap acts a constant current source so there's no inrush current as such. See my earlier reply.
Graham Langley
Your points are valid, but mine is also. Please imagine flipping the switch when the main voltage is at its peak and the capacitor is empty. Now, the capacitor is charging from 320V (230V effective is 320V peak). This results in an inrush current. Granted: just a couple milliseconds, but certainly enough to shorten the life span of the switch. Ideally, we would only switch on devices when the AC is going trough 0V and off when the AC is going trough 0A, but in practice, a mechanical switch switches during a "random" phase (or in better words phase angle) of the sine wave.