I have been an electrician for 42 years and I have had many occasions to teach and be taught. You are a good teacher and have a good gift to teach folks.Keep up the good videos and keep cultivating your gift.
Great job. I learned more in 17 minutes than I thought. I have a one pipe system that is banging, spraying water, hot/cold, etc. The most important thing I learned was not to mess with the handle that shuts the radiator off. I have been moving those up and down like mad. Thanks. I feel smarter now! You rock! Mike
I love steam heat radiators. The heat is moist and even when the furnace shuts off, it still radiates heat. The hissing sound you hear at times is just so comforting.
If you ever plan to refurbish the radiators. Paint removal with something like Peel-away or burn-off, use a torch and wax to loosen all fittings (not the valve, but complete disassembly). Brush all the rust away, Cast Iron you can season like a pan (you’ll need a huge BBQ or kiln room to 450˚F and seasoning oil) or use metallic paint that’s heat-proof. The shiny, the better. Dull holds heat, shiny emits more.
I managed a private Estate with 37 night/day stats all controlled by pneumatic air pressure..We had commercial timers to switch over both stats and swap boilers on a 12 schedule..We had 2 burners that rarely if ever broke down.. Our HVAC mechanic who not only knew his stuff, he was happy to teach me all I asked..Thank you Floy at Colonie Mechanical for making my job easier..
I had to replace an air vent yesterday on an old radiator and when I purchased the new valve I thought it might be best to purchase a nipple extractor and 1/8 tap tool in case the valve broke when removing. It did. It was great having everything I needed without having to run back out to the store. I never used an extractor or had to tap new threads but it worked out great. I learned from videos like this, I watched maybe 50 different videos this week on one pipe steam heating systems and appreciate every single one of them, so thank you for doing these and showing us weekend warriors how to do what we need to. Thumbs up! BTW, I’m assuming you live somewhere in NY. I’m in Brooklyn where steam heat rules, and haven’t seen any radiators with designs on them. I like! 😀
Awsome video. Smart ideas. Have a 1947 Sun Coal converted steam boiler, there are about 12 radiators. Mom had 8 shut off at valve for 40 years. She passed I cleraned valves changed air bleeders and got intermitent heat from 4 of them A friend came over and noticed the return to the rear of boiler wasnt getting warm or hot, although I still got good heat in most rooms. Now zero heat Alot of rust
Quite possibly the best video for one pipe steam heat out here on RUclips. Lots of potential too. Maybe reshoot with a tripod? And also explain the furnace itself like explain pressuretrols and maintain for summer
LOVE your knowledge on these things. I feel so stupid right now. I live in a very small studio in the Bronx and the heat is driving me crazy and I have no idea how to turn it off which is why I found your video. :-) I like how knowledgeable you are on these things. Keep it up man.
Cool. Last winter I got a lot of banging. I think my valves don't fully close and it causes the bang. I was searching for replacements and came across your video. I will follow your suggestion and look for "Gordon".... Thanks
Got 'em thru my whole (100+ year old) condo, and they are gorgeous. Shame some folks cover them up with radiator covers, but if you have young children, having them exposed can be a burn hazard, they really heat up, so for some it's a safety issue.
Very nice video. Love your passion for the one pipe steam radiators. I have much more understanding and appreciation for the radiators in my 160+ year old house.
Your information about steam heating is incredibly informative. I grew up in a home where the house was heated by a wood stove. After doing a good deal of research about how to heat me home most efficiently. The university where I was a student and now work, still uses steam heat to keep most of the campus warm. The physical plant which heats the water is about a half mile from my building. And my office is always warm during the winter even when the temperature dips below zero. I am interested in using steam steam heat in my home and your videos have been very informative. If I can find a way to use steam heat, I will let you know how it goes.
Hello, amazing video. Learned quite a bit. I live in a 3 floor house(3rd floor is a converted attic apartment). When I moved in here, the radiators at the top floor did not work. I had them a long with the piping removed, and put in some electric baseboard heaters. I assumed since they were basically a hundred years old, the electric baseboards would be more efficient. I was wrong and wish I did more research before I had pies ripped out of the house. I had two radiators on the second floor(one for each bedroom), which I moved downstairs to replace ones that broke on the first floor, I learned my lesson though and left and capped the pipes. Second floor is still comfortable because enough heat rises that I have no complaints there. What I would like to do is get more back in the third floor apartment. My problem is this, I would have to run more piping and the house has basically been remodeled so I don't want to have to destroying ceilings again if it could be avoided. My head for the third floor was, to take the one pipe on the second floor, uncap and extend it to the third floor. This is where, ive been unable to find any information, once the pipe is on the third floor, can I split it and do two radiators? Its a single pipe steam system exactly like yours.
Very thorough video. Well done. Now I know what I have to do with my two radiators that are spewing out water like a river. Open the valve and tip away from the relief! Thank you!
Thanks for your helpful info. I know some about steam heat but am learning a lot more. For the cooling, I've seen radiated cooling only once before (on forced hot water systems NOT steam). There was a chiller put on to push cold water through the pipes which did work by putting out some cold air radiating from the radiator, but there were several modifications made as condensation forms on the cooled radiators and will drip dramatically so you need to drain it or it will go all over the floor
Ty for all the info.. my home is 112 years old with all different size steam radiators and i can never seem to get it right btw i use nickles instead of washers lol big gaps
hey thanks for making this video it's very informative! I don't really see any other types of media that actually shows and reviews steam heating system stuff and it's really useful to see options and what we need to find to fix old heating systems!
Great video! Thanks again, as I'm really learning a lot! I know it's time consuming, but hopefully you can keep your hydronic heat system videos coming! Especially with the cast iron radiators!
You can buy a steel element convector and a cast iron convectore at a plumbing supply store or a radiator refurbish store. I would you a lager air vent to get the steam in your bathroom radiator, for self standing cast iron radiators use a Gorton No.D air vent, for a convector use a Gorton No.1 air vent and that dosnt work then use smaller vents on the faster heated radiators and larger vents on the slower heated radiators, your best vents to use are Gorton air vents.
Because my boiler is on the same floor level as the rest of my apartment and since I decided to build a one pipe steam heating system I had no other choice but to elevate the radiators off the floor so the condensation can make its way back into the boiler.
You can put nice tables on top of the radiators, you need to rest them on spacers though, but it can limit the convection a little bit. I went through an old factory once and they had really nice cast iron radiators just lying around, I may go back and salvage them. One pipe steam heat is coming back in a big way thanks to natural gas heating. Good call on the valve adjustments, either need them on 100% or 0% otherwise its gonna be loud as hell all throughout your system.
@ Sir Sebastian, I would go with Heat-Timer varivalve which allows for the most air to exit the radiator in the shortest amount of time. Price is about $19 each but so much better made then Gordon or Hoffman. The second but more expensive way is go with a thermostatic radiator valve which you can set the room temperature for each radiator making each room its own zone but you will spend about $60 each. Change your valves every couple of years
Working steam pressure for this system is 7psi. I could lower the steam pressure to 2-1/2 psi but I don't pay for the heat. I would recommend 2-1/2 psi cut out and 1psi cut in if your using cast iron radiators because #1. they take longer to fill with steam and #2. 1/2 psi cut out your heating system will completely lose steam pressure by the time the burner decides to cut back in at 1/2psi. I always like to no less then 1-1/2psi in the system while the heating cycle is running.
Excellent video! Thanks so much. I now know how to operate my cast iron steam radiator, and I appreciate it much more too. LOVE my radiator! I really like your straight ahead style too. Keep it comin'.
part #1) thanks for the video and tips...I have a steam one pipe system @ my 4th floor apartment (approx. 150 feet from boiler) .. with large floor mount radiators .. most steam headers/supply pipe are about 80 yrs old .. bedroom radiator using maid-o-mist adjustable angle air vents.. cut off valve 30+ yrs old...... @ beginning of heat cycle the air vent blows steady like normal .. as steam gets closer to radiator the air flow @ vent begins to sputter & cough with air flow not steady
I've got a single radiator on my single pipe steam system that may have been added to my house after the rest of the system was installed. It has a separate pipe leading from the boiler to the radiator that's much smaller in diameter (1.25" O.D.) than the rest of the pipes (1.75" O.D.). This radiator doesn't drain correctly. It has been rebalanced to improve drainage, and while it's better, it never drains completely. So when it heats up, you can hear water inside the radiator gurgling. For the last two days, I started draining the pipes of the system near the boiler in an attempt to drain this radiator. It may have improved the situation somewhat, but it's not fully resolved. This may be compounded because the pipe for this radiator runs along the basement floor until it heads up to the second floor radiator, and the drainage valve in the basement is about 15" above the floor. I can continue to test draining the water from the pipes daily, but I'm also considering installing a drain valve on this pipe near floor level in the basement. Any thoughts about these or other fixes? How often should the pipes be drained? I drain down the boiler weekly to clean out the sludge from the system. Thanks!
Thanks for your reply. The radiator is pitched properly, but despite this, it doesn't drain fully. I'm thinking it must be because the line runs down along the basement floor and then up several inches to the drain valve, so there's really no way to fully drain this line. All the other pipes remain above the drain valve level, so they drain fully. Seems like I'd need to install both a drain valve in the pipe along the basement floor and some type of pump to completely remove the water from this pipe to solve the problem. That's probably not going to happen unless I can figure out a cheap pump. I also have my eye on ductless mini-split systems to replace both heating and cooling systems in my house. It's a $25,000 (!) all-electric solution, but once I add a few more solar panels, it's free to operate. I'm paying up to $200/month to heat a few hours a day about 4-5 months a year, and less for cooling, probably at least $1,000/year total.
PT1. Ok the first thing I need to know is do u control your heat? next do you have access to the boiler? and if so how much steam pressure is the system using? you should be operating at about 2-1/2 PSI cut out, and a cut in at no less than 1 to 1-1/2 PSI. I also recommend using smaller vents on the radiator that heat up fastest and larger vents on the radiators that take longer to heat up, HOFFMAN adjustable air vents and GORTON air vents dont use MAID O MIST.
Thanks for the demonstration. I'm having a hard time with my system. It is always asking for water, most of the radiators won't get warm. Those that do get warm only halfway. I've changed the vents, I've bleed the system. I've shut down all but one and still, the steam is very weak. I'm thinking that I have clogs in the system. If you can help, I'd greatly appreciate it.
@100PercentGreen) The average pressure inside any steam radiator is normally 3 to 5 psi but steam heating systems dont go any higher than 15 psi. if the air vent works propperly then you get no moisture condensation on the window from the air vent. hot water systems operate anywhere from 0 psi to 45 or 50 psi.
Good question, i live in houston so cool weather is a pleasant surprise. There should be a valve to regulate flow through the radiator so turning it clockwise should restrict steam flow through the radiator thus lowering the temperature. I would anticipate when you turn the valve to close it (especially up north) it will leak a bit so tighten up the packing if you need. Hope this was helpful and good vid by akwesi pls like.
Well if its the cut off valve then you will mostlikely need a plumber because if its been their for a while it will need to be cut out with an electric saw saw. the cut off valve is the conection that comes out the floor and supplie the radiator with steam.
I have the same one pipe heating system in my home. All the radiators have air valves and they are working. My radiators have a total of 7 fins and only 3 of them gets hot and the other 4 remains cold. Also the one in the bathroom does not get hot at all unless I turn my heat up to about 80. Please give some sugestions
I would rebuild your steam system or if you don't wish to go with steam then use hot water heat, I don't recommend baseboard radiators or forced hot air because neither of these systems hold heat once the boiler shuts down.
It sounds to me like you have a hot water heating system because you dont manually bleed out a steam systems, Gortons air valves automaticly vent themselve, my questions are do you live in a house or building? do you control your own heat? does your boiler have a water sight glass? do you have 1 or 2 pipe going in the radiator? and do the other radiators get hot in your house? these answers can help me better understand your situation so I can more accurately help solve your problem.
I know your busy. I would love to see you repair or refurbished an old radiator. What plumbing supply in the Bronx, refurbishes old radiators. I’m always trying to find old books on steam heat.
I live in NYC and would appreciate it if you could recommend a plumbing supply that carries cast iron radiators setup for a one pipe steam system. Very nice restoration of your radiators.
I own a 2 family home where I'm having a heating problem. It's a steam one pipe system. There's about 10 radiators in the house. One of the radiators gets hot some of the time. The others make heat except this one. The one in question is the first one coming from boiler.What should I look for to solve problem? Thanks for videos. Very helpful.
You might need to check or replace the air vent on your radiator with a Hoffman or a Gorton air vent, also check your cutoff valve to make sure its open all the way and make sure you radiator is properly pitched back to the cutoff valve.
GREAT ADVICE! Now, how would you handle this, apartment building, steam heat, 6 apartments (3 on each side) , but the apartments on the far side of the boiler receive less heat in the radiators than the apartments that are situated just above the boiler. By the time the boiler sends up the heat (steam) to the far side of the building it shuts off. Thank You!
I don’t know about the timing of the system, but, I wonder if on the far side, there may be end of the run risers that the relief valves are painted over. If that’s the case, then the system may be filled with compressed air on that side. So the steam never reached because it’s not vented out.
What are you running for pressure? You seem to get it, I am a heating mechanic and I love these old column rads and the cast convection rads Gordon's maid-o-mist best valves. Pressure should be half a pound cut in boiler pound and a half cut out. Steam is better and more efficient at the lowest pressure you can run. Fast main vents and slow adjustable rad vents.
Not if the radiator is properly pitched and the cut off valve is is completely open the air valve will work fine. The lowest point of the radiator is the best way to vent the radiator.
Well I have my radiators mounted on the wall because my boiler is on the same level as the ground and anyone who knows about one pipe steam heating systems knows the system cant funtion properly that way. Now where Im from in New York radiator can be found in most biuldings and even private houses but in newly biuld construction use hot water heating systems and mainly use baseboard or steel convector radiators wich are more commen on hot water systems.
You would need some type of heat exchanger some what like a scotch marine boiler and some how fit it into your woodburning stove but it all depends on how big you wood stove is and how big the space your trying to heat, you might end up having to build a wood boiler from scratch.
PT2. Also make sure your cutoff valves are completely open and make sure your radiators and steam mains are properly pitch back to the boiler, and if you added another radiator to your system then you might have to let your boiler run a litte long to bring up that steam pressure. let me know how you make out?
Probably not. It's usually just the packing. If tightening the packing nut doesn't fix it you can replace the packing. If it's the union it probably just needs to be tightened.
I just moved into an apartment with these ugly things, I hate 'em! Thankfully 2 are covered up. I have no idea how to work them. I have no idea why there's a thermostat in the living room ... I'm not sure how one device can control 4 separate radiators therefore I'm not using them and buying a EdenPure. I hoping investing in one of these will save on my propane or natural gas bill (I'm not sure which one heats up the water in the boiler in the basement) and I'm hoping my electric bill isn't high. I like your radiator, wish mine looked that good. Great video! ;-)
i have the same thing exepet it is a sigle like base heatter an it dont have a black knob like that could some ome help me out on how to do this please
Yeah you have a bad cutoff valve, the seat is in the closed position from the inside of the cutoff valve and causes water to store in the radiator thats why your getting the banging noise, your best bet is to replace it now once you do that dont regulate the radiator valve, the cutoff valve serves 1 purpose on 1 pipe systems, to cut the radiator of for repairs regulating the valve in do time you will only cause it to leak keep it 95% open and leave it be and your radaitors will work fine.
Enjoy watching your videos it breaks steam heating down to the basics! I'm in hopes of getting a little direction. I've moved into a 2 story house that recently had a conversion from oil to gas boiler using a gas gun and keeping the existing oil boiler. The boiler seem to be operating fine at around 150,000 btu but the radiators in the house do not get warm. The only way that I get heat is if i shut off all of the radiator control valves and leave one open. After gradually opening the other radiators, heat starts to come out. However, as soon as i shut the system off, im back to square one. This has me believing that it is a balancing issue instead of what ive heard from contractors that suggest repiping or installing new radiators (pricey expense). Any suggestions?
Thanks, looks like there might be more wrong than just the valve. Plumber will be here tomorrow. But this is very strange that my neighbors both above and below me have a lot more heat coming from their pipes, no?
Got it. The rod running thru the top INDICATES that the steam only travels along the bottom horizontally. A steam vent release that is adjustable by room temperature?
Well she didnt tell me what part of the radiator was leaking, if its just the packing on the spindle of the cutoff then thats an easy fix, the union on the cutoff valve is a little different if the valve is relatively new then tightening it should do it but older valves the threads usually get warped and the union wont fit back in place in these cases you would end up having to install a hole new cutoff valve.
Thanks you very much for the knowledge,I am thankful to have found this video. My heater keeps knocking. making a loud knocking noise... starts off soft and then knocks harder...If I'm not mistaken you stated that this was a result of turning the valve half way. And not having it open all the way?
Hello Sir, I’m planning on removing a cast iron radiator in my bathroom. This is for three purposes: 1. To have the radiator clean and painted 2. to address the wall behind the radiator and 3. to tile the floor beneath the radiator. I was wondering if turning off and plug in the local radiator valve is sufficient and would it be safe to run the steam back on for the entire house?
Hi, my mom had the same radiators as you and they take a long time to get hot, her bill is $400 a month, I was going to buy the new small efficient cast iron replacements; but the store owner said to insulate the pipes in the basement first. What do you think. Thank you for being informable and great video. Thanks again
Good video! I have a problem with one of my radiators on my one pipe steam system. This one radiator in the system is cold to the touch. I cleaned out the Varivalve air vent by soaking it in hot vinegar as per the manufacturer recommendation on their website. That failed to address the issue and I'm wondering if the air vent is bad or if the shutoff valve is bad or if their is a blackage. The knob on the shutoff valve moves freely. The rest of the radiators in the system are fine. What should I look at next? I was thinking to just replace the air vent since they are relatively cheap.
? if able to answer. Looks like when I bought my house in 09 that today I see it was installed wrong. its a one pipe system. going to call the install company and if not going to fix looks like I will. I have a 2800 sq ft home and would like to get the best rad. valve to adjust for 1st floor and 2nd floor. what s a good valve to use. maybe a #1 and #4 gordens. thanks Bob P.S. Great videos - Keep up The great steam Info.
Bob Rabida: Use an adjustable steam VENT to adjust the heat output. The Gentleman in the video is correct: Do NOT use a valve to adjust heat output. The vent will vent the air out of the radiator to let the steam in. No Air out= no steam in.
Thanks for the tips! I just purchased a cast iron baseboard unit for lack of space in a small bathroom. I was told by the hardware store that it would work in my one pipe steam sys. The radiator has two 3/4” ports on each end. My biggest concern now after some more research is that the 3/4” port is not big enough. The plumbing in the floor is still the same but will i have a problem after reducing it to 3/4? Obviously steam goes in and condensation comes back out the same port. Please let me know what you think.
Hi this video was very helpful in understanding how one pipe steam system works. I have steam cast iron radiators on the first floor and have 5 different radiators installed on the first floor. Out of the 5 only one is working that is if it wants to work. The 1 radiator is getting hot water in the pipe but is not heating up the radiator. The other radiator pipes are cold. Any suggestions what I may need to do?? I am a new homeowner and could definitely use your advice. Thank you.
Go to a hardware store and buy all new radiator bleeders. They have a different one for all various locations of the radiator. Check the pitch of the radiators. Check boiler capacity if someone replaced it. They go by square feet of steam and not BTU's. Also, check the water level in the boiler but I would presume you know that already. You also blow down the boiler or it will not heat up because sediment will insulate it from heat. If it is oil call your oilman. Make sure it has no major leak problems.
Hello, I have a one pipe steam system and I keep hearing an occasional bang on one of the pipes that appears to be in the wall, I was wondering what do you think it could be, and if there is anything one can do to prevent that from happening? thanks again for your videos, I'm in the chicago area, and i can tell you steam dudes make good money out here,
Awesome video, Sir! I have a single pipe steam system in my house and based on my years of experience as a homeowner your information is spot on! Something I noticed, at 15:12 you introduce the little short squat radiator. All your other taller radiators are quiet but that little guy's valve is hissing. I've got one of those squat radiators in my house (the rest are the old cast iron ones) and I have the same situation - when the heat's on and other radiators quiet down as they fill with steam my little guy still has a hissing valve. I've replaced the valve and even swapped valves with a known good one with another radiator, and always whatever valve is on the little squat one hisses even if it worked elsewhere. I wonder if you have any thoughts as to why that's the case? Do those "squatties" require a different steam valve?
Just viewed your video and now I'm keeping all valves OPEN! Here is my question, I have 2 floors to my home with 1 zone heating. My upstairs rooms get the majority of the heat and my first floors do get heated when the system turns on but they don't get as hot as the rooms upstairs. What if anything can be done?
Dude, having a valve on the bottom is a no no, the air at the top of the radiator will never escape, that's why the manufacturer put the valve on the top, unless you have some special radiator, but I doubt it. Hi check out " the wall Steam heating" blog, you'll see
Excellent video, thanks. One question -- I'm looking to temporarily remove my small one pipe steam radiator to clean it. I can't seem to crank the valve down enough to completely shut it off. It seems to only get lukewarm now. Should I force it further before trying to remove it?
Hi I have a radiator that doesn't have an air valve just a bleeding valve (not sure what else to call it) . The radiator takes a long time to get hot and isn't very efficient. How do I fix this? do I just replace this bleeding valve? could that be why it isn't heating properly? Thank You for sharing your knowledge. Bernard
Great video. I didn't know "steam radiators" existed! I have old radiators, but I'm assuming they are hot water as there are no steam valves. With hot water, can the cut off valve be used to regulate the temperature? Thanks a lot
Do you have a one pipe steam heating system with air vents at the end of the radiators or is it a two pipe heating system? do you have steam heat or hot water? and do you have cast iron radiators, steel convectors that are recessed in the wall or baseboard heating? I'm trying to get an idea of how your system is set up.
part #2)... .. I can feel the cutoff valve become red hot with steam as well .. maybe one or two sections receive partial steam.. it is at this point the air vent STOPS venting outward and begins a vacuum inward... the radiator never completely fills with steam .. this happens every heat cycle .. btw, 2 add'l radiators about 20-30 feet away (same apartment) work 100% of the time ... any advice would be helpful, thanks from NYC
I've always found radiators interesting. Thanks for sharing this. I have a question: why are your radiators mounted so far off the ground? Second, how common is it to find radiator systems that also cool, and why isn't it as common?
Got big bang noise constantly whenever the steam is pushed into the radiator. Also, hear water draining. Situation is: 1) new IPS Angled Adjustable Steam Radiator Valve, set to 6 (1-8). 2) shut valve is all way open. 3). the radiator is tilting towards the shut valve (measured with level). Based on the situation, what do you think why the water is still trapped in the radiator and how to fix the situation? thanks.
I have been an electrician for 42 years and I have had many occasions to teach and be taught. You are a good teacher and have a good gift to teach folks.Keep up the good videos and keep cultivating your gift.
your right
My son just bought a house with one pipe steam and we didn't understand how it worked. Thanks for a great explanation.
Great job. I learned more in 17 minutes than I thought. I have a one pipe system that is banging, spraying water, hot/cold, etc. The most important thing I learned was not to mess with the handle that shuts the radiator off. I have been moving those up and down like mad. Thanks. I feel smarter now! You rock! Mike
I love steam heat radiators. The heat is moist and even when the furnace shuts off, it still radiates heat. The hissing sound you hear at times is just so comforting.
Great job I'm a Stationary Engineer and learned plenty from your class
If you ever plan to refurbish the radiators. Paint removal with something like Peel-away or burn-off, use a torch and wax to loosen all fittings (not the valve, but complete disassembly). Brush all the rust away, Cast Iron you can season like a pan (you’ll need a huge BBQ or kiln room to 450˚F and seasoning oil) or use metallic paint that’s heat-proof. The shiny, the better. Dull holds heat, shiny emits more.
I managed a private Estate with 37 night/day stats all controlled by pneumatic air pressure..We had commercial timers to switch over both stats and swap boilers on a 12 schedule..We had 2 burners that rarely if ever broke down.. Our HVAC mechanic who not only knew his stuff, he was happy to teach me all I asked..Thank you Floy at Colonie Mechanical for making my job easier..
I have watched this video several times and shared it with many. Thank you!
Finally a video that actually explains the heating system I have thank you
Currently working in 2187 and previously at 2156. I wished I could have met you and learn a few things from you.
I had to replace an air vent yesterday on an old radiator and when I purchased the new valve I thought it might be best to purchase a nipple extractor and 1/8 tap tool in case the valve broke when removing. It did. It was great having everything I needed without having to run back out to the store. I never used an extractor or had to tap new threads but it worked out great. I learned from videos like this, I watched maybe 50 different videos this week on one pipe steam heating systems and appreciate every single one of them, so thank you for doing these and showing us weekend warriors how to do what we need to. Thumbs up! BTW, I’m assuming you live somewhere in NY. I’m in Brooklyn where steam heat rules, and haven’t seen any radiators with designs on them. I like! 😀
Awsome video. Smart ideas. Have a 1947 Sun Coal converted steam boiler, there are about 12 radiators. Mom had 8 shut off at valve for 40 years. She passed I cleraned valves changed air bleeders and got intermitent heat from 4 of them A friend came over and noticed the return to the rear of boiler wasnt getting warm or hot, although I still got good heat in most rooms. Now zero heat Alot of rust
Quite possibly the best video for one pipe steam heat out here on RUclips. Lots of potential too. Maybe reshoot with a tripod? And also explain the furnace itself like explain pressuretrols and maintain for summer
LOVE your knowledge on these things. I feel so stupid right now. I live in a very small studio in the Bronx and the heat is driving me crazy and I have no idea how to turn it off which is why I found your video. :-) I like how knowledgeable you are on these things. Keep it up man.
Broooo I just got into a 1 feed steam system. Glad to find this channel although there aren’t many
Cool. Last winter I got a lot of banging. I think my valves don't fully close and it causes the bang. I was searching for replacements and came across your video. I will follow your suggestion and look for "Gordon".... Thanks
That is a beautiful radiator. I love the art nouveau design of the floral embellishments in the castings.
Got 'em thru my whole (100+ year old) condo, and they are gorgeous. Shame some folks cover them up with radiator covers, but if you have young children, having them exposed can be a burn hazard, they really heat up, so for some it's a safety issue.
Very nice video. Love your passion for the one pipe steam radiators. I have much more understanding and appreciation for the radiators in my 160+ year old house.
Your information about steam heating is incredibly informative. I grew up in a home where the house was heated by a wood stove. After doing a good deal of research about how to heat me home most efficiently. The university where I was a student and now work, still uses steam heat to keep most of the campus warm. The physical plant which heats the water is about a half mile from my building. And my office is always warm during the winter even when the temperature dips below zero. I am interested in using steam steam heat in my home and your videos have been very informative. If I can find a way to use steam heat, I will let you know how it goes.
Hello, amazing video. Learned quite a bit. I live in a 3 floor house(3rd floor is a converted attic apartment). When I moved in here, the radiators at the top floor did not work. I had them a long with the piping removed, and put in some electric baseboard heaters. I assumed since they were basically a hundred years old, the electric baseboards would be more efficient. I was wrong and wish I did more research before I had pies ripped out of the house. I had two radiators on the second floor(one for each bedroom), which I moved downstairs to replace ones that broke on the first floor, I learned my lesson though and left and capped the pipes. Second floor is still comfortable because enough heat rises that I have no complaints there. What I would like to do is get more back in the third floor apartment. My problem is this, I would have to run more piping and the house has basically been remodeled so I don't want to have to destroying ceilings again if it could be avoided. My head for the third floor was, to take the one pipe on the second floor, uncap and extend it to the third floor. This is where, ive been unable to find any information, once the pipe is on the third floor, can I split it and do two radiators? Its a single pipe steam system exactly like yours.
Very thorough video. Well done. Now I know what I have to do with my two radiators that are spewing out water like a river. Open the valve and tip away from the relief! Thank you!
nice video love the history of steam heat. the dead men were very smart. they differently have my respect
Thanks for your helpful info. I know some about steam heat but am learning a lot more. For the cooling, I've seen radiated cooling only once before (on forced hot water systems NOT steam). There was a chiller put on to push cold water through the pipes which did work by putting out some cold air radiating from the radiator, but there were several modifications made as condensation forms on the cooled radiators and will drip dramatically so you need to drain it or it will go all over the floor
Great video. In my area steam radiators are very rare. As an hvac tech it is hard get good understanding of them.
Ty for all the info.. my home is 112 years old with all different size steam radiators and i can never seem to get it right btw i use nickles instead of washers lol big gaps
hey thanks for making this video it's very informative! I don't really see any other types of media that actually shows and reviews steam heating system stuff and it's really useful to see options and what we need to find to fix old heating systems!
Your knowledge is impeccable wow nice job brother
Great video! Thanks again, as I'm really learning a lot! I know it's time consuming, but hopefully you can keep your hydronic heat system videos coming! Especially with the cast iron radiators!
based on the videos on his channel now, it seems like he turned into a train buff.
You can buy a steel element convector and a cast iron convectore at a plumbing supply store or a radiator refurbish store. I would you a lager air vent to get the steam in your bathroom radiator, for self standing cast iron radiators use a Gorton No.D air vent, for a convector use a Gorton No.1 air vent and that dosnt work then use smaller vents on the faster heated radiators and larger vents on the slower heated radiators, your best vents to use are Gorton air vents.
Because my boiler is on the same floor level as the rest of my apartment and since I decided to build a one pipe steam heating system I had no other choice but to elevate the radiators off the floor so the condensation can make its way back into the boiler.
You can put nice tables on top of the radiators, you need to rest them on spacers though, but it can limit the convection a little bit.
I went through an old factory once and they had really nice cast iron radiators just lying around, I may go back and salvage them. One pipe steam heat is coming back in a big way thanks to natural gas heating.
Good call on the valve adjustments, either need them on 100% or 0% otherwise its gonna be loud as hell all throughout your system.
This is great to know! I live in a Victorian building with steam radiators
@ Sir Sebastian, I would go with Heat-Timer varivalve which allows for the most air to exit the radiator in the shortest amount of time. Price is about $19 each but so much better made then Gordon or Hoffman. The second but more expensive way is go with a thermostatic radiator valve which you can set the room temperature for each radiator making each room its own zone but you will spend about $60 each. Change your valves every couple of years
Working steam pressure for this system is 7psi. I could lower the steam pressure to 2-1/2 psi but I don't pay for the heat. I would recommend 2-1/2 psi cut out and 1psi cut in if your using cast iron radiators because #1. they take longer to fill with steam and #2. 1/2 psi cut out your heating system will completely lose steam pressure by the time the burner decides to cut back in at 1/2psi. I always like to no less then 1-1/2psi in the system while the heating cycle is running.
Excellent video! Thanks so much. I now know how to operate my cast iron steam radiator, and I appreciate it much more too. LOVE my radiator! I really like your straight ahead style too. Keep it comin'.
part #1) thanks for the video and tips...I have a steam one pipe system @ my 4th floor apartment (approx. 150 feet from boiler) .. with large floor mount radiators .. most steam headers/supply pipe are about 80 yrs old .. bedroom radiator using maid-o-mist adjustable angle air vents.. cut off valve 30+ yrs old...... @ beginning of heat cycle the air vent blows steady like normal .. as steam gets closer to radiator the air flow @ vent begins to sputter & cough with air flow not steady
I've got a single radiator on my single pipe steam system that may have been added to my house after the rest of the system was installed. It has a separate pipe leading from the boiler to the radiator that's much smaller in diameter (1.25" O.D.) than the rest of the pipes (1.75" O.D.). This radiator doesn't drain correctly. It has been rebalanced to improve drainage, and while it's better, it never drains completely. So when it heats up, you can hear water inside the radiator gurgling.
For the last two days, I started draining the pipes of the system near the boiler in an attempt to drain this radiator. It may have improved the situation somewhat, but it's not fully resolved. This may be compounded because the pipe for this radiator runs along the basement floor until it heads up to the second floor radiator, and the drainage valve in the basement is about 15" above the floor. I can continue to test draining the water from the pipes daily, but I'm also considering installing a drain valve on this pipe near floor level in the basement. Any thoughts about these or other fixes? How often should the pipes be drained? I drain down the boiler weekly to clean out the sludge from the system. Thanks!
It sounds like the problem your having is the pipe size going into the additionally added radiator is to small and most likely not pitched properly.
Thanks for your reply. The radiator is pitched properly, but despite this, it doesn't drain fully. I'm thinking it must be because the line runs down along the basement floor and then up several inches to the drain valve, so there's really no way to fully drain this line. All the other pipes remain above the drain valve level, so they drain fully. Seems like I'd need to install both a drain valve in the pipe along the basement floor and some type of pump to completely remove the water from this pipe to solve the problem. That's probably not going to happen unless I can figure out a cheap pump. I also have my eye on ductless mini-split systems to replace both heating and cooling systems in my house. It's a $25,000 (!) all-electric solution, but once I add a few more solar panels, it's free to operate. I'm paying up to $200/month to heat a few hours a day about 4-5 months a year, and less for cooling, probably at least $1,000/year total.
PT1. Ok the first thing I need to know is do u control your heat? next do you have access to the boiler? and if so how much steam pressure is the system using? you should be operating at about 2-1/2 PSI cut out, and a cut in at no less than 1 to 1-1/2 PSI. I also recommend using smaller vents on the radiator that heat up fastest and larger vents on the radiators that take longer to heat up, HOFFMAN adjustable air vents and GORTON air vents dont use MAID O MIST.
Thanks for the demonstration. I'm having a hard time with my system. It is always asking for water, most of the radiators won't get warm. Those that do get warm only halfway. I've changed the vents, I've bleed the system. I've shut down all but one and still, the steam is very weak. I'm thinking that I have clogs in the system. If you can help, I'd greatly appreciate it.
Thanks for sharing your neat old radiators
@100PercentGreen) The average pressure inside any steam radiator is normally 3 to 5 psi but steam heating systems dont go any higher than 15 psi. if the air vent works propperly then you get no moisture condensation on the window from the air vent. hot water systems operate anywhere from 0 psi to 45 or 50 psi.
Good question, i live in houston so cool weather is a pleasant surprise. There should be a valve to regulate flow through the radiator so turning it clockwise should restrict steam flow through the radiator thus lowering the temperature. I would anticipate when you turn the valve to close it (especially up north) it will leak a bit so tighten up the packing if you need. Hope this was helpful and good vid by akwesi pls like.
Very helpful, thank you for making this video. Now I know that water was coming out of the vent because i had the cut off valve half closed.
Well if its the cut off valve then you will mostlikely need a plumber because if its been their for a while it will need to be cut out with an electric saw saw. the cut off valve is the conection that comes out the floor and supplie the radiator with steam.
I have viewed your videos. You do a wonderful presentation and are very knowledgable! You are a master operating engineer! I
I use a paint called rustoleum its a hight heat resistant paint made for radiators, ovens, etc its a very good paint for high heat applications.
I have the same one pipe heating system in my home. All the radiators have air valves and they are working. My radiators have a total of 7 fins and only 3 of them gets hot and the other 4 remains cold. Also the one in the bathroom does not get hot at all unless I turn my heat up to about 80. Please give some sugestions
Im glad I was able to help.
I think thermostatic radiator valves are a good idea and a great way to save money there just a little exspensive but help save money.
Excellent video. You are a very good teacher. I have learned a lot from your videos. Keep it up.
I would rebuild your steam system or if you don't wish to go with steam then use hot water heat, I don't recommend baseboard radiators or forced hot air because neither of these systems hold heat once the boiler shuts down.
It sounds to me like you have a hot water heating system because you dont manually bleed out a steam systems, Gortons air valves automaticly vent themselve, my questions are do you live in a house or building? do you control your own heat? does your boiler have a water sight glass? do you have 1 or 2 pipe going in the radiator? and do the other radiators get hot in your house? these answers can help me better understand your situation so I can more accurately help solve your problem.
I know your busy. I would love to see you repair or refurbished an old radiator. What plumbing supply in the Bronx, refurbishes old radiators. I’m always trying to find old books on steam heat.
I live in NYC and would appreciate it if you could recommend a plumbing supply that carries cast iron radiators setup for a one pipe steam system. Very nice restoration of your radiators.
It also just chills the air and doesn't take the humidity out as an air conditioner does, but it did work okay.
I own a 2 family home where I'm having a heating problem. It's a steam one pipe system. There's about 10 radiators in the house. One of the radiators gets hot some of the time. The others make heat except this one. The one in question is the first one coming from boiler.What should I look for to solve problem?
Thanks for videos. Very helpful.
You might need to check or replace the air vent on your radiator with a Hoffman or a Gorton air vent, also check your cutoff valve to make sure its open all the way and make sure you radiator is properly pitched back to the cutoff valve.
GREAT ADVICE! Now, how would you handle this, apartment building, steam heat, 6 apartments (3 on each side) , but the apartments on the far side of the boiler receive less heat in the radiators than the apartments that are situated just above the boiler. By the time the boiler sends up the heat (steam) to the far side of the building it shuts off. Thank You!
I don’t know about the timing of the system, but, I wonder if on the far side, there may be end of the run risers that the relief valves are painted over. If that’s the case, then the system may be filled with compressed air on that side. So the steam never reached because it’s not vented out.
What are you running for pressure? You seem to get it, I am a heating mechanic and I love these old column rads and the cast convection rads Gordon's maid-o-mist best valves. Pressure should be half a pound cut in boiler pound and a half cut out. Steam is better and more efficient at the lowest pressure you can run. Fast main vents and slow adjustable rad vents.
I wish I had your knowledge on steam systems. I have a pipe that bangs. I always thought is was the radiator but I turned it off and it still bangs.
Not if the radiator is properly pitched and the cut off valve is is completely open the air valve will work fine. The lowest point of the radiator is the best way to vent the radiator.
Well I have my radiators mounted on the wall because my boiler is on the same level as the ground and anyone who knows about one pipe steam heating systems knows the system cant funtion properly that way. Now where Im from in New York radiator can be found in most biuldings and even private houses but in newly biuld construction use hot water heating systems and mainly use baseboard or steel convector radiators wich are more commen on hot water systems.
Love my Weil Mc Lane EG 45 one pipe system with full three inch header.
You would need some type of heat exchanger some what like a scotch marine boiler and some how fit it into your woodburning stove but it all depends on how big you wood stove is and how big the space your trying to heat, you might end up having to build a wood boiler from scratch.
PT2. Also make sure your cutoff valves are completely open and make sure your radiators and steam mains are properly pitch back to the boiler, and if you added another radiator to your system then you might have to let your boiler run a litte long to bring up that steam pressure. let me know how you make out?
Get a Gorton air release valve with a larger orifice. It will vent the air faster and your radiator will get hot faster and more completely.
You can try tightening the nut on the radiator cut off valve but if that doesn't work then you might have to replace the cut off valve.
Thanks for the video! I learn more more you than all the rest.
Is there a risk when putting the air-valve low on a one pipe system that the the valve will be filled by water and not function properly?
Probably not. It's usually just the packing. If tightening the packing nut doesn't fix it you can replace the packing. If it's the union it probably just needs to be tightened.
I just moved into an apartment with these ugly things, I hate 'em! Thankfully 2 are covered up. I have no idea how to work them. I have no idea why there's a thermostat in the living room ... I'm not sure how one device can control 4 separate radiators therefore I'm not using them and buying a EdenPure. I hoping investing in one of these will save on my propane or natural gas bill (I'm not sure which one heats up the water in the boiler in the basement) and I'm hoping my electric bill isn't high. I like your radiator, wish mine looked that good. Great video! ;-)
i have the same thing exepet it is a sigle like base heatter an it dont have a black knob like that could some ome help me out on how to do this please
Yeah you have a bad cutoff valve, the seat is in the closed position from the inside of the cutoff valve and causes water to store in the radiator thats why your getting the banging noise, your best bet is to replace it now once you do that dont regulate the radiator valve, the cutoff valve serves 1 purpose on 1 pipe systems, to cut the radiator of for repairs regulating the valve in do time you will only cause it to leak keep it 95% open and leave it be and your radaitors will work fine.
Enjoy watching your videos it breaks steam heating down to the basics! I'm in hopes of getting a little direction. I've moved into a 2 story house that recently had a conversion from oil to gas boiler using a gas gun and keeping the existing oil boiler. The boiler seem to be operating fine at around 150,000 btu but the radiators in the house do not get warm. The only way that I get heat is if i shut off all of the radiator control valves and leave one open. After gradually opening the other radiators, heat starts to come out. However, as soon as i shut the system off, im back to square one. This has me believing that it is a balancing issue instead of what ive heard from contractors that suggest repiping or installing new radiators (pricey expense). Any suggestions?
Thanks, looks like there might be more wrong than just the valve. Plumber will be here tomorrow. But this is very strange that my neighbors both above and below me have a lot more heat coming from their pipes, no?
Got it. The rod running thru the top INDICATES that the steam only travels along the bottom
horizontally.
A steam vent release that is adjustable by room temperature?
Well she didnt tell me what part of the radiator was leaking, if its just the packing on the spindle of the cutoff then thats an easy fix, the union on the cutoff valve is a little different if the valve is relatively new then tightening it should do it but older valves the threads usually get warped and the union wont fit back in place in these cases you would end up having to install a hole new cutoff valve.
Thanks you very much for the knowledge,I am thankful to have found this video. My heater keeps knocking. making a loud knocking noise... starts off soft and then knocks harder...If I'm not mistaken you stated that this was a result of turning the valve half way. And not having it open all the way?
Hello Sir, I’m planning on removing a cast iron radiator in my bathroom. This is for three purposes: 1. To have the radiator clean and painted 2. to address the wall behind the radiator and 3. to tile the floor beneath the radiator.
I was wondering if turning off and plug in the local radiator valve is sufficient and would it be safe to run the steam back on for the entire house?
Hi, my mom had the same radiators as you and they take a long time to get hot, her bill is $400 a month, I was going to buy the new small efficient cast iron replacements; but the store owner said to insulate the pipes in the basement first. What do you think. Thank you for being informable and great video. Thanks again
Thank you for sharing! Just subscribed. Hopefully I can find one if you explaining how to troubleshoot a steam boiler system. 👋🏽
we. own a one pipe heating system in a apartment and even though im little like 11yrs i get to operate the boiler
Good video! I have a problem with one of my radiators on my one pipe steam system. This one radiator in the system is cold to the touch. I cleaned out the Varivalve air vent by soaking it in hot vinegar as per the manufacturer recommendation on their website. That failed to address the issue and I'm wondering if the air vent is bad or if the shutoff valve is bad or if their is a blackage. The knob on the shutoff valve moves freely. The rest of the radiators in the system are fine. What should I look at next? I was thinking to just replace the air vent since they are relatively cheap.
? if able to answer. Looks like when I bought my house in 09 that today I see it was installed wrong. its a one pipe system. going to call the install company and if not going to fix looks like I will. I have a 2800 sq ft home and would like to get the best rad. valve to adjust for 1st floor and 2nd floor. what s a good valve to use. maybe a #1 and #4 gordens. thanks Bob
P.S. Great videos - Keep up The great steam Info.
Bob Rabida: Use an adjustable steam VENT to adjust the heat output. The Gentleman in the video is correct: Do NOT use a valve to adjust heat output.
The vent will vent the air out of the radiator to let the steam in. No Air out= no steam in.
Great and informative video, nice work!!
Thanks for the tips! I just purchased a cast iron baseboard unit for lack of space in a small bathroom. I was told by the hardware store that it would work in my one pipe steam sys. The radiator has two 3/4” ports on each end. My biggest concern now after some more research is that the 3/4” port is not big enough. The plumbing in the floor is still the same but will i have a problem after reducing it to 3/4? Obviously steam goes in and condensation comes back out the same port. Please let me know what you think.
Hi this video was very helpful in understanding how one pipe steam system works. I have steam cast iron radiators on the first floor and have 5 different radiators installed on the first floor. Out of the 5 only one is working that is if it wants to work. The 1 radiator is getting hot water in the pipe but is not heating up the radiator. The other radiator pipes are cold. Any suggestions what I may need to do?? I am a new homeowner and could definitely use your advice. Thank you.
Go to a hardware store and buy all new radiator bleeders. They have a different one for all various locations of the radiator. Check the pitch of the radiators. Check boiler capacity if someone replaced it. They go by square feet of steam and not BTU's. Also, check the water level in the boiler but I would presume you know that already. You also blow down the boiler or it will not heat up because sediment will insulate it from heat. If it is oil call your oilman. Make sure it has no major leak problems.
Hello, I have a one pipe steam system and I keep hearing an occasional bang on one of the pipes that appears to be in the wall, I was wondering what do you think it could be, and if there is anything one can do to prevent that from happening? thanks again for your videos, I'm in the chicago area, and i can tell you steam dudes make good money out here,
Awesome video, Sir! I have a single pipe steam system in my house and based on my years of experience as a homeowner your information is spot on!
Something I noticed, at 15:12 you introduce the little short squat radiator. All your other taller radiators are quiet but that little guy's valve is hissing. I've got one of those squat radiators in my house (the rest are the old cast iron ones) and I have the same situation - when the heat's on and other radiators quiet down as they fill with steam my little guy still has a hissing valve. I've replaced the valve and even swapped valves with a known good one with another radiator, and always whatever valve is on the little squat one hisses even if it worked elsewhere.
I wonder if you have any thoughts as to why that's the case? Do those "squatties" require a different steam valve?
One think I’ve learnt is that this man is very passionate about his heat 💆🏼♂️😂
Corey Gee "Learned" not "Learnt". You're welcome.
UnderGround Session Radio are you a man
Corey Gee Why?
Great video. Thank you for posting. Quick question - why are your radiators painted? Is it better to paint them or leave them unpainted?
Just viewed your video and now I'm keeping all valves OPEN! Here is my question, I have 2 floors to my home with 1 zone heating. My upstairs rooms get the majority of the heat and my first floors do get heated when the system turns on but they don't get as hot as the rooms upstairs. What if anything can be done?
I always use a pant brush and rust oleum paint.
Dude, having a valve on the bottom is a no no, the air at the top of the radiator will never escape, that's why the manufacturer put the valve on the top, unless you have some special radiator, but I doubt it. Hi check out " the wall Steam heating" blog, you'll see
Excellent video, thanks. One question -- I'm looking to temporarily remove my small one pipe steam radiator to clean it. I can't seem to crank the valve down enough to completely shut it off. It seems to only get lukewarm now. Should I force it further before trying to remove it?
Hi I have a radiator that doesn't have an air valve just a bleeding valve (not sure what else to call it) . The radiator takes a long time to get hot and isn't very efficient. How do I fix this? do I just replace this bleeding valve? could that be why it isn't heating properly? Thank You for sharing your knowledge. Bernard
Great video. I didn't know "steam radiators" existed! I have old radiators, but I'm assuming they are hot water as there are no steam valves. With hot water, can the cut off valve be used to regulate the temperature? Thanks a lot
Do you have a one pipe steam heating system with air vents at the end of the radiators or is it a two pipe heating system? do you have steam heat or hot water? and do you have cast iron radiators, steel convectors that are recessed in the wall or baseboard heating? I'm trying to get an idea of how your system is set up.
part #2)... .. I can feel the cutoff valve become red hot with steam as well .. maybe one or two sections receive partial steam.. it is at this point the air vent STOPS venting outward and begins a vacuum inward... the radiator never completely fills with steam
.. this happens every heat cycle .. btw, 2 add'l radiators about 20-30 feet away (same apartment) work 100% of the time ...
any advice would be helpful, thanks from NYC
I've always found radiators interesting. Thanks for sharing this. I have a question: why are your radiators mounted so far off the ground? Second, how common is it to find radiator systems that also cool, and why isn't it as common?
Got big bang noise constantly whenever the steam is pushed into the radiator. Also, hear water draining. Situation is: 1) new IPS Angled Adjustable Steam Radiator Valve, set to 6 (1-8). 2) shut valve is all way open. 3). the radiator is tilting towards the shut valve (measured with level). Based on the situation, what do you think why the water is still trapped in the radiator and how to fix the situation? thanks.
Great video, thanks for sharing your knowledge.