Nobody has corrected you on how to say it but I must! Desiccant (Dess-i-kent). Thanks for the follow up video! Really appreciate it. I planned on using coiled copper line for my aftercooler (between the compressor and tank) but you showed me those transmission coolers can handle the pressure just fine. Thanks!
Cooling the air back down to ambient before it goes into the tank is probably the best dollar per benefit possible in terms of getting water out of the air.
Nice system. I'm glad to see the radiator. I suggestone simple change to greatly reduce or completely remove all moisture from going into your tank and your shop lines... From the radiator output, connect that to your copper lines input. Then, from your copper lines output, connect that to your tank's input. Then, from the tank, connect that to your shop line's input. Do this and you'll have no moisture in your tank or your shop lines.
Built a dryer with a large oil cooler, 12v adapter on a electric radiator fan and a single water trap. Only spent like $150 on everything. Took 300⁰ head temps down to 5⁰ above outside temperature keeping my tanks dry. At the chuck I used the dry crystal trap but after a year its still blue.
I second the oil cooler! Did that to mine a while back with the water separator in line before going into the tank and as you said, its well worth the investment.
Nice copper work & experimentation to improve your system, Kudos! A few suggestion: #1)Add an electric fan to the oil cooler. The logic is: A 1 inch + gap exists between the flywheel/fan blades & the cage mounted oil cooler & most of the air just goes anound the cooler because the fins resist air flow by design. With a fan pushing air thru the cooler, the cooling efficiency goes up + the extra airflow will cool the pump fins, reducing air discharge temp., further adding to the efficiency. Then flow the comp. air thru the water trap on the tank. The final solution to stop all water in the tank is: #2)Flow the air from the water trap into a Schedule 40 2" dia. × 36" long galvanized pipe, loosely stuffed with stainless steel wool scrub pads. Vertically mount the 2" pipe + a top bell reducer for air inlet & a bottom 2" "T" with bottom drain valve & side air exit to go to the tank inlet/check valve. This 2" vertical pipe is the rest of the magic formula. It provides reduced air velocity (more dwell time) to allow the remaining moisture to grab ahold of the stainless steel wool (coalescing) into droplets that fall into the drain valve area. Now you have air dry enough that No water will accumulate in the tank or lines. Use a desicant & then a particle filter combo At the Point of Use (taken from the wall mounted copper tube thingy because it is not necessary). About the up/down copper tube device: Have you ever seen an automobile cooling radiator made from copper tubes & No fins & No air flow? Or a modern car with solid wood wheels right? All these have been surpassed by surperior technology. For the ultimate engineer designed, hobby sized passive (No refrigerated driers), see Doug Kronemeyer's 3 part RUclips video series "DIY #9" where he presents, in Part 1, schematics & system design logic & knowledge. Part 2 is in his own shop, looking at each part of his sys. & how & why it works so efficiently. Alright, keep experimenting & learning every day! Peace, Paul from hot & super humid S. Central Tx.. P.S.A shoutout to Bud Stiner, THE Compressor Guru! He has many DIY tutorial repair & diagnostic videos (RUclips) & offers & ships parts, & local service/repair. Great guy!
Thank You for the info!! ....Just watched the 3 part series by Doug and about to watch Stiner. Looks like i will be setting up my air dryer starting today....doing this for DIY auto painting in garage. This was a huge help!! 😁👍
I like the idea of cooling the air before it goes into the tank, very smart. I plan on experimenting with a desiccant filter on the air intake to stop the moisture before it goes into the pump as well as your radiator cooling system. Will have the stock air filter first, then the desiccant filter and into the compressor. Will try that first before adding the radiator
Diekessent? Made me laugh out loud. 🤣🤣🤣 Great video though. I really like the radiator and will probably add one to my system. Makes me wonder why they aren’t sold as an option.
Thank you for a great really informative video on cooling compressed air! It sounds like something I will do now that I have seen yours. 1 question I have is, How does the radiator cool the air without a fan on it? how does that work? do you need to run electricity for it?
Interesting video. Clearly successful which is great. But I wonder if a little overcomplicated? For instance, why use desiccant chambers at the bottom of the loops when you could simply have a 150mm down stand on each loop with a purge valve? You know there will be condensed water there. You don’t need desiccant for condensed water. Desiccant is useful to eliminate vapour. Another example is the cooler before the compressor tank. If the water condenses in the tank, then the tank is essentially a condenser. That moisture is no longer in your air, although it will increase the humidity of the air in the tank. But that’s what your drier loops are for! Just empty the compressor tank daily. 👍🙂
Can you use a temp gun to get the temp on the pump side, then the output side of the radiator pipe after it’s been running for a good long time so it’s nice and hot. Curious to see the difference. My abrasive blasting system keeps getting clogged with moisture
Probably cheaper and simpler precooler option is a 5gal bucket of water with a coil of copper pipe in it with an auto drain at the bottom that expels it occasionally.
I remember the system being upgraded on the wall, that tank mod though, that's ingenious. I need to do that. Can you do a video specifically on the trans radiator mod? Like how to run it, the pulley and fan, e.t.c?
I can make one but it's super easy. No modifications to the pully or fan at all. The trans cooler is literally zip tied to the fan shroud and plumbing ran from the pump, to the cooler, to the auto drop, then back to the tank.
@@benhightowerv super easy and extremely effective for a cheap price tag. I have the parts I used linked below minus the plumbing which really needs to be purchased locally with the pieces brought in
The HF reviews are kinda sketchy on that dryer...not sure it's worth the risk. It seems these diy systems are durable and very few things to go wrong, if at all.
My only question is, what are the ends you put on the copper pipe to screw in and feed to the transmission cooler, and how do you install them on the copper pipe? Trying to do a similar setup now for my air compressor for a blasting cabinet. Awesome video btw.
That's sounds stupid to me. Why don't you put the cool air not through your drying system first before putting it in the tank? If your drying system is that good then you would get no condensation whatsoever in your tank in the first place, right?
Nobody has corrected you on how to say it but I must! Desiccant (Dess-i-kent). Thanks for the follow up video! Really appreciate it. I planned on using coiled copper line for my aftercooler (between the compressor and tank) but you showed me those transmission coolers can handle the pressure just fine. Thanks!
Cooling the air back down to ambient before it goes into the tank is probably the best dollar per benefit possible in terms of getting water out of the air.
Nice system. I'm glad to see the radiator. I suggestone simple change to greatly reduce or completely remove all moisture from going into your tank and your shop lines...
From the radiator output, connect that to your copper lines input. Then, from your copper lines output, connect that to your tank's input. Then, from the tank, connect that to your shop line's input.
Do this and you'll have no moisture in your tank or your shop lines.
Built a dryer with a large oil cooler, 12v adapter on a electric radiator fan and a single water trap. Only spent like $150 on everything. Took 300⁰ head temps down to 5⁰ above outside temperature keeping my tanks dry. At the chuck I used the dry crystal trap but after a year its still blue.
Hi. Can you share the details of your setup
That’s awesome air man great set up
I second the oil cooler! Did that to mine a while back with the water separator in line before going into the tank and as you said, its well worth the investment.
Thanks for explaining your build. Hadn’t researched my water problem yet and now I see what causes it. Peace ✌️
Nice copper work & experimentation to improve your system, Kudos! A few suggestion: #1)Add an electric fan to the oil cooler. The logic is: A 1 inch + gap exists between the flywheel/fan blades & the cage mounted oil cooler & most of the air just goes anound the cooler because the fins resist air flow by design. With a fan pushing air thru the cooler, the cooling efficiency goes up + the extra airflow will cool the pump fins, reducing air discharge temp., further adding to the efficiency. Then flow the comp. air thru the water trap on the tank. The final solution to stop all water in the tank is: #2)Flow the air from the water trap into a Schedule 40 2" dia. × 36" long galvanized pipe, loosely stuffed with stainless steel wool scrub pads. Vertically mount the 2" pipe + a top bell reducer for air inlet & a bottom 2" "T" with bottom drain valve & side air exit to go to the tank inlet/check valve. This 2" vertical pipe is the rest of the magic formula. It provides reduced air velocity (more dwell time) to allow the remaining moisture to grab ahold of the stainless steel wool (coalescing) into droplets that fall into the drain valve area. Now you have air dry enough that No water will accumulate in the tank or lines. Use a desicant & then a particle filter combo At the Point of Use (taken from the wall mounted copper tube thingy because it is not necessary). About the up/down copper tube device: Have you ever seen an automobile cooling radiator made from copper tubes & No fins & No air flow? Or a modern car with solid wood wheels right? All these have been surpassed by surperior technology. For the ultimate engineer designed, hobby sized passive (No refrigerated driers), see Doug Kronemeyer's 3 part RUclips video series "DIY #9" where he presents, in Part 1, schematics & system design logic & knowledge. Part 2 is in his own shop, looking at each part of his sys. & how & why it works so efficiently. Alright, keep experimenting & learning every day! Peace, Paul from hot & super humid S. Central Tx.. P.S.A shoutout to Bud Stiner, THE Compressor Guru! He has many DIY tutorial repair & diagnostic videos (RUclips) & offers & ships parts, & local service/repair. Great guy!
Thank You for the info!! ....Just watched the 3 part series by Doug and about to watch Stiner. Looks like i will be setting up my air dryer starting today....doing this for DIY auto painting in garage. This was a huge help!! 😁👍
Nice system!! Now I know what I am going to do, Thanks for the education.
I like the idea of cooling the air before it goes into the tank, very smart. I plan on experimenting with a desiccant filter on the air intake to stop the moisture before it goes into the pump as well as your radiator cooling system. Will have the stock air filter first, then the desiccant filter and into the compressor. Will try that first before adding the radiator
Good information John and another great video.
Great system. Another good video. Keep it up.
That’s what I like about you and your channel. You are always thinking about how to improve something.
Diekessent? Made me laugh out loud. 🤣🤣🤣 Great video though. I really like the radiator and will probably add one to my system. Makes me wonder why they aren’t sold as an option.
Ya me to.
Great video friend, God bless your weekend
Thank you for a great really informative video on cooling compressed air! It sounds like something I will do now that I have seen yours. 1 question I have is, How does the radiator cool the air without a fan on it? how does that work? do you need to run electricity for it?
Not at all the compressor runs the fan which pulls the air through the radiator. Works extremely well.
Interesting video. Clearly successful which is great. But I wonder if a little overcomplicated? For instance, why use desiccant chambers at the bottom of the loops when you could simply have a 150mm down stand on each loop with a purge valve? You know there will be condensed water there. You don’t need desiccant for condensed water. Desiccant is useful to eliminate vapour. Another example is the cooler before the compressor tank. If the water condenses in the tank, then the tank is essentially a condenser. That moisture is no longer in your air, although it will increase the humidity of the air in the tank. But that’s what your drier loops are for! Just empty the compressor tank daily. 👍🙂
Can you use a temp gun to get the temp on the pump side, then the output side of the radiator pipe after it’s been running for a good long time so it’s nice and hot. Curious to see the difference. My abrasive blasting system keeps getting clogged with moisture
T job. Makes so much since
Probably cheaper and simpler precooler option is a 5gal bucket of water with a coil of copper pipe in it with an auto drain at the bottom that expels it occasionally.
"dess-i-can't" 🙂--- Great setup.
I remember the system being upgraded on the wall, that tank mod though, that's ingenious. I need to do that.
Can you do a video specifically on the trans radiator mod? Like how to run it, the pulley and fan, e.t.c?
I can make one but it's super easy. No modifications to the pully or fan at all. The trans cooler is literally zip tied to the fan shroud and plumbing ran from the pump, to the cooler, to the auto drop, then back to the tank.
@@JDSOutdoors I kinda figured that's how it was but I wanted to be sure. That's awesome and definitely easily attainable
@@benhightowerv super easy and extremely effective for a cheap price tag. I have the parts I used linked below minus the plumbing which really needs to be purchased locally with the pieces brought in
The HF line drier is up to $550...no effort/maintenance except turn it on
The HF reviews are kinda sketchy on that dryer...not sure it's worth the risk. It seems these diy systems are durable and very few things to go wrong, if at all.
My only question is, what are the ends you put on the copper pipe to screw in and feed to the transmission cooler, and how do you install them on the copper pipe? Trying to do a similar setup now for my air compressor for a blasting cabinet. Awesome video btw.
Flare to compression fitting
@JDSOutdoors thank you sir!
Its' called DES-E-CANT.
Feel better?
The high school graduates among us will feel better if he manages to pronounce it correctly.
God forbid he help you out by saying how to pronounce it properly.. lol.
Put the transmission cooler into a pail of water
Jo please can you send me a video how i can make that air cooler on your compressor please 😬
Unfortunately I can't but next time I build one I'll film it
wayment ... if I watch this video from 2 years ago about how this drying system has worked for past year ...
Worked great
That's sounds stupid to me. Why don't you put the cool air not through your drying system first before putting it in the tank? If your drying system is that good then you would get no condensation whatsoever in your tank in the first place, right?