Sure, it would have been possible to get Belleville spring washers. This would have been the "cleaner" solution. I just didn't want to wait for them and - honestly - I wasn't willing to spend 5 (or so) Euros to get 4 washers delivered.
Harald, when I drill or plunge mill any material which has stringy chips, I "peck drill" to break the chips. Since I assume that you are aware of this 'technique," is there a reason that you didn't do that with the stainless steel in this video? I ask because I'm sure that I'm unaware of possible reasons to *not* "peck drill" to break chips, at least in certain situations. Also, at about 20:45, when centerdrilling the stock in your lathe, your centerdrill appeared to move up before starting to cut -- was that an optical illusion, perhaps wear in your tailstock, or misalignment of tailstock center with the spindle centerline?
Thanks a lot for your comments and good questions. With regards to peck drilling: Honestly, yes, I am aware of the peck drilling technique, but in most cases I am just too lazy and did not develop the habit pd applying it. There isn't any good reason for not doing it. The friction clutch mechanism of my quill's auto feed would make it really easy to use. I will keep it in mind in the future. With regards to the moving center drill: you are probably right: I didn't notice this before watching my video. I have to check this - perhaps with a dial measuring the deflection of the quill. The tailstock alignment should be fine, but I will also recheck this. Thank you for your great contribution.
Klasse Arbeit, Harald. Ich habe grad vor ner Woche ein Video von einer ähnlichen Konstuktion in meinem Kanal veröffentlicht. Kannst ja mal reinschauen.
Sticking in meine Nase... May i suggest: Use a small ball bearing as a turning point for the adjustment screw, and turn an internal "cone" on the adjustment screw end, to avoid any tendency to "wander" when turning...the ball should be in a short V groove to allow it to travel as the tip of the screw moves in an arc with the top plate. In a similar application, I mounted the adjustment screw in a "barrel" that was inserted "across" the upper body, so that it could rotate with the arc of the adjustment, and ran on a fixed ball in the bottom member. Alternatively, one can use such a "barrel" in both plates, the one in the bottom can just sit in a V slot, but each barrel has a different thread, z.B. 6 mm standard and 6 mm fine, to achieve a differential thread adjustment, getting something like 0,2 mm per turn... Probably not too clear an explanation, sorry that it's not possible to insert a sketch. Trotzdem, nice job, nice video, kudos for showing an error, and how you fixed it!
Excellent thoughts and explanation. Thank you very much! I did not think of the trick with the ball bearing but considered using the differential thread trick.
Well spotted! Honestly - no I didn't notice this. The reason for pre-drilling with the center drill was mostly because I wasn't sure if the chamfer end-mill would be able to "drill" in the very center. I would expect that this should be sufficient to keep the chamfer mill "on track". I am obviously wrong. And - again honestly - I don't have an explanation. I have to investigate this. One possible explanation could be an issue with my y-axis. (On my Thiel the y-movement is NOT done with the table but with the spindle stock.) Thank you very much for pointing this out.
@@5b4aezmarinoscyprus71 🙂 I just went down into my basement shop and did a few quick checks which confirmed my suspicions that the ways of the y-axix of my mill is adjusted incorrectly. I can move the vertical head sideways (perpendicular to the y-axis) by about 0.05 mm just with the force of my hands. With the axis locked the movement is below 0.01 mm. So, fixing this issue will be my next "project". An other issue is the fact, that I have more than 3 mm "backlash" in the y-axis, i.e. I have to turn the adjustment wheel by a full turn between positive and negative adjustments. Don't know if I will be able to film my repair.
@@HaraldFinster that's a great idea filming the repairs of your milling machine. Just a suggestion, did you ever consider to replace the lead-Screw nut with ball nuts..? The tolerance with this type of nuts is zero...
@@5b4aezmarinoscyprus71 I considered this idea, but it would be a major modification. The backlash isn't a real problem for me, especially as I have a DRO on my machine which avoids the need of "overhooting" and targeting a specific measurement from one direction. I am pretty sure that my "backlash" issue is not caused by excessive wear of the spindle or spindle nut. I must have been drunk when I assembled the machine and probably forgot to tighten some screw properly. We will see...
That was great and it works really well. Great idea and functionality. Cheers Wylie
A very good and functional design, i like it!
wow! very nice one ! it seems that the adjustment works flawless !
Sehr schön gemacht 👍
Outstanding
(& your secret is safe with me)
……subscribed !
Thank you. "your secret is safe with me" I am relieved ;-)
Very nice mate!
BTW, I wonder if Belleville spring washers are available from someone like Hoffman?
Good idea using the "modified" locking washers!
Sure, it would have been possible to get Belleville spring washers. This would have been the "cleaner" solution. I just didn't want to wait for them and - honestly - I wasn't willing to spend 5 (or so) Euros to get 4 washers delivered.
Sehr klug Harald, insbesondere die Federn.
Harald, when I drill or plunge mill any material which has stringy chips, I "peck drill" to break the chips. Since I assume that you are aware of this 'technique," is there a reason that you didn't do that with the stainless steel in this video? I ask because I'm sure that I'm unaware of possible reasons to *not* "peck drill" to break chips, at least in certain situations. Also, at about 20:45, when centerdrilling the stock in your lathe, your centerdrill appeared to move up before starting to cut -- was that an optical illusion, perhaps wear in your tailstock, or misalignment of tailstock center with the spindle centerline?
Thanks a lot for your comments and good questions.
With regards to peck drilling: Honestly, yes, I am aware of the peck drilling technique, but in most cases I am just too lazy and did not develop the habit pd applying it. There isn't any good reason for not doing it. The friction clutch mechanism of my quill's auto feed would make it really easy to use. I will keep it in mind in the future.
With regards to the moving center drill: you are probably right: I didn't notice this before watching my video. I have to check this - perhaps with a dial measuring the deflection of the quill. The tailstock alignment should be fine, but I will also recheck this.
Thank you for your great contribution.
Klasse Arbeit, Harald. Ich habe grad vor ner Woche ein Video von einer ähnlichen Konstuktion in meinem Kanal veröffentlicht. Kannst ja mal reinschauen.
Sticking in meine Nase...
May i suggest:
Use a small ball bearing as a turning point for the adjustment screw, and turn an internal "cone" on the adjustment screw end, to avoid any tendency to "wander" when turning...the ball should be in a short V groove to allow it to travel as the tip of the screw moves in an arc with the top plate. In a similar application, I mounted the adjustment screw in a "barrel" that was inserted "across" the upper body, so that it could rotate with the arc of the adjustment, and ran on a fixed ball in the bottom member.
Alternatively, one can use such a "barrel" in both plates, the one in the bottom can just sit in a V slot, but each barrel has a different thread, z.B. 6 mm standard and 6 mm fine, to achieve a differential thread adjustment, getting something like 0,2 mm per turn...
Probably not too clear an explanation, sorry that it's not possible to insert a sketch.
Trotzdem, nice job, nice video, kudos for showing an error, and how you fixed it!
Excellent thoughts and explanation. Thank you very much!
I did not think of the trick with the ball bearing but considered using the differential thread trick.
But the differential screw will have to be untied in the middle with a cardan (or other coupling), otherwise everything will jam
@@SergeiPetrov if I understand the original suggestion correctly, the adjustment screw should run in slewable threads. This would solve the problem.
Dear Harald, did you notice that at 6:07 the carbide chamfer end-mill is moving left and right...?
Well spotted! Honestly - no I didn't notice this.
The reason for pre-drilling with the center drill was mostly because I wasn't sure if the chamfer end-mill would be able to "drill" in the very center.
I would expect that this should be sufficient to keep the chamfer mill "on track". I am obviously wrong.
And - again honestly - I don't have an explanation. I have to investigate this.
One possible explanation could be an issue with my y-axis. (On my Thiel the y-movement is NOT done with the table but with the spindle stock.)
Thank you very much for pointing this out.
@@HaraldFinster no need thanks, you offering such beautiful job and ideas to everybody...keep the great work my friend.
@@5b4aezmarinoscyprus71 🙂 I just went down into my basement shop and did a few quick checks which confirmed my suspicions that the ways of the y-axix of my mill is adjusted incorrectly. I can move the vertical head sideways (perpendicular to the y-axis) by about 0.05 mm just with the force of my hands. With the axis locked the movement is below 0.01 mm. So, fixing this issue will be my next "project".
An other issue is the fact, that I have more than 3 mm "backlash" in the y-axis, i.e. I have to turn the adjustment wheel by a full turn between positive and negative adjustments. Don't know if I will be able to film my repair.
@@HaraldFinster that's a great idea filming the repairs of your milling machine. Just a suggestion, did you ever consider to replace the lead-Screw nut with ball nuts..? The tolerance with this type of nuts is zero...
@@5b4aezmarinoscyprus71 I considered this idea, but it would be a major modification. The backlash isn't a real problem for me, especially as I have a DRO on my machine which avoids the need of "overhooting" and targeting a specific measurement from one direction. I am pretty sure that my "backlash" issue is not caused by excessive wear of the spindle or spindle nut. I must have been drunk when I assembled the machine and probably forgot to tighten some screw properly. We will see...