More of these clear & informative videos please. It's nice to be spoken to like a rider & not a person that's been a bike mechanic for the past 60 years!
Just like all the other comments said...... that was just a perfect lesson on fixing a chain. Thank you! One thing though, can you demonstrate this while using a typical multi tool. I think there may be some tips that could be found while using a multi tool vs a shop tool.
If you don’t have a chain-link tool but need to snap the quick-link closed: with the bike still on the stand (or on the floor) after adding the quick-link, pedal gently until the quick-link is at the top between the cassette and chain rings. Check visually to be sure both halves are correctly engaged as Jim pointed out. Hold the back brake and thump down on the drive side pedal [as though riding forwards] with your hand (or foot). The quick-link should snap closed as the top part of the chain feels the pulse of tension and pulls the 2 halves of the link away from each other.
I recently took a basic bicycle maintenance/repair class, and the subject of chain repair came up. They demonstrated a chain break repair, but it was fast and hard to see. Thanks for the great video - now I get it!!
When you want to lock the quick link in place instead of pedaling hard you can.. rotate the chain so the quick link is positioned to the top just behind the chain ring. Then you simply push on a pedal forward while locking the rear wheel with one hand. That's how I do it in the workshop and you could easily do it out on the road aswell. :)
Did this a couple of weeks ago, made a rattly sound. My mechanic fixed it, but I suspect that I didn't route it properly through those tabs at the jockey wheels. This is yet another excellent video from Jim the bike guy
THANK YOU so very much for these HELPFUL videos, as opposed to the endless streams of "commercials" that many other Cycling Channels seem to focus on.🙏
GREAT video Jim ! ONE thing I might add is that it is also possible to "click" the quick link into place simply applying pressure with your foot on one of the pedals WHILE applying the front and rear brakes firmly to hold the bike in place while you do so.. Your advice to replace the chain is golden. As a matter of fact it may well be a sign that just ordinary maintenance has been wanting :-)
@@JanKowalski-ux6nt Yes -thanks for 5:25 . . . but you don't HAVE to pedal hard :-) I was just saying that you can hold the bike with both brakes and press one of the pedals with your foot until you hear the link clicks into place.:-) I've done and it works just fine
Cheers Jim, you make it look and sound so simple with your very clear and informative video. I'm now confident enough to have an attempt at taking off my old and replacing a new chain tomorrow. Ta pal.👍
Enjoyed the video. Looking forward to having a go myself, just need to get some bits of kit before I start. It's great to see how the tools are used. My Specialized bike has 8 cogs on the cassette and one on the front. Presumably I need an eight speed chain?
Last year I installed a new chain and did a mountainous century with the chain rolling over the top of the tab in the rear derailleur arm. I was embarrassed to find it after getting home when cleaning the bike. D'oh! Fortunately there was no damage other than the paint on the tab scratched.
Hi Jim great video. Would you need to change your chain if you change your cassette size and or the size of chain rings? e.g go from a 50/34 m 11-28 to a 52/36 11-30?
I don't ride much-but I'm on my third chain in probably not even 50 rides. What the hell is going on? The first two, I had professionally done (including a tune up two years ago complete with new brakes/cables)... I'm hoping the guy who did my bike would have noticed something wrong-maybe not. I have a 2014 Stumpjumper, btw. I did notice broken teeth on the large sprocket (front-pedal) Could that be the reason? I'm about to go out into my garage and put on a new chain myself using your video to guide me. Hope it goes well cus the time before this last chain, I was riding up hill going a good speed & standing for momentum and my chain popped-driving my weight down on to my foot-s which slipped off my pedal down to the concrete and causing me to going upside down with my bike and my shin was wrecked man-so painful.. (sorry-vague explanation) I just want to get this going so I can ride my bike man!!
I’m assuming when you say speed you’re talking about the amount of rear cogs on cassette as I have a 16 speed bike 2 front 8 back Oh and possible stupid question could you not just measure old chain to get length ?
I’ve always measured the chain against the old one or by looping around big-big (without the derailleur). Never understood why but also it always seemed to end up OK. Your method makes a lot of sense and looks easier to do but is there no danger that the chain won’t be long enough to ride big front and big rear?
I've always seen it done the big-big way on youtube, but always learned to do it this way as well. As long as you followed the gearing specs of the derailleur you should be ok. The derailleur's tension mechanism is built to take up slack for a certain range of gears. as long as you follow that it should leave you with enough chain to use them. Basically, this method gives you the max amount of chain length your derailleur can support, if it's not enough, you need a different derailleur that can support the bigger range of gears. The big-big solution often ends up with a shorter chain, so less links, so more cycles of the chain needed for the same amount of distance which in theory means the longer chain (so the method seen here) should last a little longer. 😉
When I remove extra links to make a chain shorter, is it at all important if the chain ends up having an even number of links or an odd number of links? Or it doesn't matter?
8 speed chain on a 6 speed freewheel seems to wear out much faster than an old 6 speed chain,which wasn't stretching for years.I think there is some kind of conspiracy of the bike industry with chain stretch.Can't they make a chain which won't stretch after 800km?
Been watching a bunch of these videos recently - bet you can't guess why - and this one got on with the job with a minimum of flim-flam. That's not just smart, that's bikesmart!
More of these clear & informative videos please. It's nice to be spoken to like a rider & not a person that's been a bike mechanic for the past 60 years!
How can you not like this man! Clear, concise and simple tutorials. And I love a cuppa 😁
Jim the bike guy is a marvel. Plain and simple step by step. As those bloody meercats say ... Simples.
Just like all the other comments said...... that was just a perfect lesson on fixing a chain. Thank you! One thing though, can you demonstrate this while using a typical multi tool. I think there may be some tips that could be found while using a multi tool vs a shop tool.
Never broken a bike chain yet, after all these years, but broken multiple bike frames LMAO!!! None-the-less, great video of knowledge to have!
If you don’t have a chain-link tool but need to snap the quick-link closed: with the bike still on the stand (or on the floor) after adding the quick-link, pedal gently until the quick-link is at the top between the cassette and chain rings. Check visually to be sure both halves are correctly engaged as Jim pointed out. Hold the back brake and thump down on the drive side pedal [as though riding forwards] with your hand (or foot). The quick-link should snap closed as the top part of the chain feels the pulse of tension and pulls the 2 halves of the link away from each other.
I was surprised and disappointed he didn't mention that gem of information, as who wants to carry master link pliers on all their rides?
@@curtmcdWrong! He mentioned it in 5:25
@@JanKowalski-ux6nt nope ... 14:55 was when he was about to say it but didn't.
@@curtmcd He said that once around 5:25 and didn't had to repeat. Just watch the whole video instead of rewinding...
I recently took a basic bicycle maintenance/repair class, and the subject of chain repair came up. They demonstrated a chain break repair, but it was fast and hard to see. Thanks for the great video - now I get it!!
When you want to lock the quick link in place instead of pedaling hard you can.. rotate the chain so the quick link is positioned to the top just behind the chain ring. Then you simply push on a pedal forward while locking the rear wheel with one hand. That's how I do it in the workshop and you could easily do it out on the road aswell. :)
I know how to do this. I just love hearing from Jim.
Did this a couple of weeks ago, made a rattly sound. My mechanic fixed it, but I suspect that I didn't route it properly through those tabs at the jockey wheels. This is yet another excellent video from Jim the bike guy
THANK YOU so very much for these HELPFUL videos, as opposed to the endless streams of "commercials" that many other Cycling Channels seem to focus on.🙏
Clearly explained in a step-by-step manner. Much appreciated.
Thank you James. Your videos are excellent. Explained so well and without being rushed. My go to videos when I need help with repairs.
“Post it” l liked that description.
Amazing videos, just watched the tubeless one also. 11/10!!! Jim needs to get front and centre of youtube bike videos - amazing tutorial videos.
Half the reason I subscribe to David's channel is to follow Jim's videos. He's a master mechanic and wastes no time getting to his content.
Another great demo! Thanks
Best hair in the industry ;)
What a top bloke. Cool calm and clear instructions. Thank you for the lesson.
Jim, I'm new to working on my bike and love your videos.
Absolutely great video!
I use the wipperman. It's brilliant. Never had an issue
Jim the bike guy is the best. !!!Keep his videos coming.!!!!
GREAT video Jim ! ONE thing I might add is that it is also possible to "click" the quick link into place simply applying pressure with your foot on one of the pedals WHILE applying the front and rear brakes firmly to hold the bike in place while you do so.. Your advice to replace the chain is golden. As a matter of fact it may well be a sign that just ordinary maintenance has been wanting :-)
5:25
@@JanKowalski-ux6nt Yes -thanks for 5:25 . . . but you don't HAVE to pedal hard :-) I was just saying that you can hold the bike with both brakes and press one of the pedals with your foot until you hear the link clicks into place.:-) I've done and it works just fine
@@davidbee8178 You're right. Cheers
Loving this tutorial/guides, im using them to teach myself on how to do maintenance to my bike, and im learning alot, amazing work!
Cheers Jim, you make it look and sound so simple with your very clear and informative video. I'm now confident enough to have an attempt at taking off my old and replacing a new chain tomorrow. Ta pal.👍
Great job with this. Best one I have viewed
I used the same method to measure chain length.that very simply and never confused
thank you for a great video, it's so much better to shown step by step how to do it properly .
Enjoyed the video. Looking forward to having a go myself, just need to get some bits of kit before I start. It's great to see how the tools are used. My Specialized bike has 8 cogs on the cassette and one on the front. Presumably I need an eight speed chain?
Thanks David. These videos are excellent 😊
Great guide, but why would you change the chain after repairing it with a new quick link?
Thank you- are these quick links for repair the same as the permanent instal ones? I am assuming a new chain comes with one.
Last year I installed a new chain and did a mountainous century with the chain rolling over the top of the tab in the rear derailleur arm. I was embarrassed to find it after getting home when cleaning the bike. D'oh! Fortunately there was no damage other than the paint on the tab scratched.
I like this guy
Has Jim been on holiday great tan lol😀👍🚴🏼♂️
Yep!
@@jimthebikeguyBBC should make a series with you on how to maintain a bike. Seriously.
Thanks!
What size chain and quick link would you use for s single speed bike?
Hi Jim great video. Would you need to change your chain if you change your cassette size and or the size of chain rings? e.g go from a 50/34 m 11-28 to a 52/36 11-30?
What if I had removed say one link more (or less) than you did, would that make it noticeable/not work as well?
I don't ride much-but I'm on my third chain in probably not even 50 rides. What the hell is going on? The first two, I had professionally done (including a tune up two years ago complete with new brakes/cables)... I'm hoping the guy who did my bike would have noticed something wrong-maybe not. I have a 2014 Stumpjumper, btw. I did notice broken teeth on the large sprocket (front-pedal) Could that be the reason? I'm about to go out into my garage and put on a new chain myself using your video to guide me. Hope it goes well cus the time before this last chain, I was riding up hill going a good speed & standing for momentum and my chain popped-driving my weight down on to my foot-s which slipped off my pedal down to the concrete and causing me to going upside down with my bike and my shin was wrecked man-so painful.. (sorry-vague explanation) I just want to get this going so I can ride my bike man!!
12:15 nice hack
I’m assuming when you say speed you’re talking about the amount of rear cogs on cassette as I have a 16 speed bike 2 front 8 back
Oh and possible stupid question could you not just measure old chain to get length ?
I’ve always measured the chain against the old one or by looping around big-big (without the derailleur). Never understood why but also it always seemed to end up OK. Your method makes a lot of sense and looks easier to do but is there no danger that the chain won’t be long enough to ride big front and big rear?
I've always seen it done the big-big way on youtube, but always learned to do it this way as well. As long as you followed the gearing specs of the derailleur you should be ok. The derailleur's tension mechanism is built to take up slack for a certain range of gears. as long as you follow that it should leave you with enough chain to use them.
Basically, this method gives you the max amount of chain length your derailleur can support, if it's not enough, you need a different derailleur that can support the bigger range of gears.
The big-big solution often ends up with a shorter chain, so less links, so more cycles of the chain needed for the same amount of distance which in theory means the longer chain (so the method seen here) should last a little longer. 😉
Great video I'm a diesel mechanic but intimidated by bike mechanics it's totally foreign too me. Anything with the chain or gears is confusing to me.
How to fix a broken chain: buy a new one
When I remove extra links to make a chain shorter, is it at all important if the chain ends up having an even number of links or an odd number of links? Or it doesn't matter?
Doesn't matter 👍
Verry good
When fitting a new chain I thought you use big and big ring?
8 speed chain on a 6 speed freewheel seems to wear out much faster than an old 6 speed chain,which wasn't stretching for years.I think there is some kind of conspiracy of the bike industry with chain stretch.Can't they make a chain which won't stretch after 800km?
Hi
Why not simply place old chain next to new one? Or actually count number of links on old chain then remove on new one.
16:44 this chain almost ends too short
is this bike chain "bike specific"
Great information.
Thanks.
Been watching a bunch of these videos recently - bet you can't guess why - and this one got on with the job with a minimum of flim-flam. That's not just smart, that's bikesmart!