Hey Ryan! Fantastic design! I originally went with the LNS 150A, ready-to-go (and don't regret it - it's a nice little machine), but this 2CU" shot size has got me wanting to build it for larger parts. Also, I'll be sending my more DIY-inclined viewers your way. THANK YOU for sharing this with folks.
I didn't even consider getting into this industry till I saw what Ryan built. Brilliantly taking what was available out there and repurposing it into a better, more useful tool. This is a huge step for me, getting away from 3D printed prototypes while avoiding the prototyping costs a pla$tic injector would need to charge. Huge!
I can't recommend building this machine enough. Ryan's customer service is fantastic. He's so fast to respond and has been so helpful. Big ups to Ryan for helping so many of us turn trash into treasure.
Thank you for this!!! I've been wanting to get into injection molding on a small scale for a long time, but couldn't justify the amount of money needed to be spent. THIS will open up all sorts of opportunities though!
Leave it to someone in the maker and open source community to figure out how to dramatically reduce barriers to entry along with price while not sacrificing quality.
For the cost, this is a no-brainer. Like $350 for the machine with 2.0 in.^3 upgraded capacity even if you go with the pre-sourced frame kit... Just buy it. The Galomb is $4500 for 1.0 in^3 capacity and the LNS 150A is $1800 for 1.1 in.^3 capacity. Seems very accessible even for someone without an engineering background
Is it worth upgrading to a 25mm linear shaft for the original moulder in your opinion? My injection cylinder arrives Monday so thinking about sourcing the other parts. I know those drill presses can be a bit flexible and flimsy. Great work btw 👍🏼
To be honest I would try the smaller version first just to see how it feels or works for you. You can always upgrade if you feel the volume is too small for you. If you use it without cranking down to hard on the handle you should be good. If you start doing more and more and want a more rigid machine then upgrade part as you see fit.
In case others are confused like I was, there are two thingiverse links, the smaller machine link has the wiring PDFs, the bigger machine link has the new frame as well as the stls. I bought a long 3/8 -16 rod and cut that up for the pludger and the guide rod. Added a nut at the bottom and top versus using a c clip. ACE Hardware had the same 3/8 handle as the printed one. Oh yeah, I could NOT get those heater bands on, so I bought M6 35mm screws and that worked well. For the black drill press stop, I bought a longer screw with a handle to allow easy adjustment. Used a spacer to help allow it to spin while tightening. The handle annoyed me, as you tighten the screw to hold up the assembly it tightens the handle down. I widened the hole in the handle, added an aluminum spacer, and no more annoyance.
Sorry for any confusion. You are correct. This is meant as an upgrade to the original machine. The original video was so long that I didn't want to repeat it all again here.
@@BusterBeagle3D no worries, I just kept clicking the new link and then finally realized the reference to the old!!! I was like where the heck are these wiring PDFs!
It's hard to say since I know what I'm doing when I do it since I have made so many but I would say it should probably take about 2-3 hours with all of the wiring and frame assembly.
@@BusterBeagle3D Thanks, that is helpful. Trying to figure out if we can shoot ABS with this. Pressure is the concern. What is the diameter of the chamber?
Got an upgrade part for the existing heat chambers out there? Still waiting on new endmills from when I broke trying to cut molds but ordered the frame nonetheless.
Make sure you tune the PID controller! Before connecting to the heaters. I had to quickly drop the temperature as they started to emit smoke. Pids were way off, wrong thermocouple, and it was set to amps instead of volts. Also the video c100 link was pretty good. I can tell he knew what a PID settings was. Other videos I looked at did not! The settings were pretty good, but he didn't tell you what each thing means. Also the PID were off a bit, so it was slow to heat and over shot a bit. I updated mine and now it goes up a bit faster and only goes over by a half or 1 C. I also adjusted my upper heat range to 295c. I hope the 300 is accurate
Your PID controller should have come with a manual that tells you what each settings means but I guess not every one does. Here is a link that might let you know a little more what each thing is. It may not be the exact same thing as yours but it would probably be close. www.vistronica.com/images/Documentos/REX-C100.pdf
@@BusterBeagle3D it seems all have different settings and screens. Also, the version I got doesn't properly control output through a voltage controller, but with a direct current dump. It immediately pushes the heaters to 500 F. Even if you are just going from 30 to 40 C. Its not bad if jumping to 250C from 20C, but small changes its not going to work. I bought a new controller with voltage control. Also, I have a full settings file for it from the manufacturer. Breme and RKC look like good options. I thought it was an RKC, but it was an RKG..... Amazon is allowing me to return it
I'm thinking that these hot ends could benefit from being insulated (heat wise) from the frame. Especially considering Ryan's comments about the benefits of wrapping the hot end with insulating muffler wrap or similar.
Hey Ryan, In the middle of building the kit. How should the total travel be for the plunger in the final assembly. Also how long of a 3/8" rod is needed to replace the one from the factory? Also, I can't find a drill press top anywhere so I'm using a shaft collar from Amazon.
You need a travel of at least 6 inches to fully evacuate the chamber. I use a 12 inch threaded rod but as long as it's around 9 inches or so it will be fine. For the drill press stands you will not be able to find the brackets as separate pieces. You have to purchase 2 drill press stands and use those parts that way. Be sure to watch the original injection molding machine video first before trying to assemble the MK2. Glad to hear it's coming together!
@@BusterBeagle3D Got it together and it works pretty great. My 3 hurdles in assembling the kit were. 1. The M8 cap socket bolts sold at Lowes had a head height that interfered with the drill press stand. 2. The PID box was hitting the back horizontal bar due to how I assembled the kit. 3. The thermocouple wire is super sensitive to motion during injection and sometimes reads a spiked temp. It'll set off the oooo alarm. I bought some molds and plastic from LNS and have been happily injecting for the past few days.
@@terisan2002 Glad you got it up and running! I would check and make sure there is no exposed wire on the thermocouple wire making it short out and read 0000. That is not a normal thing that happens with that wire. Something may be loose or as you pull down you may be touching another wire or the frame or something.
I'm looking at building this but 35x35 heater bands are oddly hardly to find in Australia... What is the actual outter diameter and length (of the heater section) of the heater chamber? Given you have to open up the 35mm ones in original video to allow for the sensor etc, but with the extended heat chamber that wouldn't be required so hoping to find a different heater band that will work. Thank you in advance
The diameter is 38mm the length is about 62mm. If you purchase the Bundle version off of the Etsy site you can get a version that comes with 2 band heaters as well. They are 110V but that just means you have to hook them up in series in Australia instead of parallel like we do in the US.
Ryan, super nice work, thanks for your hard work and sharing. We have a few small projects we would like to make, Polypropylene and maybe a Bayblend (a mixture of ABS and PC). Each component comes in less than 1.0 Cub. in. but there are some pretty intricate details were concerned about. Concern #1, do you think one needs "bleed holes" or vent holes to allow the plastic flow to the smaller intricate pockets, or is this even a concern? #2 How much pressure is actually required to push the plastic into the cavities, ie. can we leverage enough force to push the plastic into tiny areas? I know its a case by case issue but have you had experience in making intricate components? Thx Again, love your work BTW I'll be 3D printing our molds don't expect to get a lot of production out each mold, thinking some Sirya Tech resins, they read real well
Thank you! I'm far from a mold expert but you might be able to find a few folks on the Buster Beagle 3D facebook group that are. I haven't made anything that was too intricate yet but there might be some people over on the group who have. I have also used the Sirya Tech high heat resins with good results. Good luck!
Hi, very very nice! Just enjoyed your first Injection Machine 1.0 video. Very good, I like these kind of DIY vids that show quality and ease and easy enough to assemble. Are there 220/240V versions available too? Also, I'm new with this, but does the molten pellets tend to squirt out at the top (insert) somewhat when applying the pressure?
You can hook up the 110V band heater in series if you are outside the US. Inside the US the band heaters are hooked up in parallel. There is a diagram in the pictures of the Etsy listing that explain this for those outside the US.
Also the tolerance in the plunger should not really allow plastic to escape the top. I suppose it can happen and I have seen it once or twice but it is not the norm.
I'm not sure if it matters in this case, but in other use cases, those SSR's are mounted on substantial finned heat sinks. It seems off to just attach them to a plastic 3D printed housing. OTOH, in my case, there doesn't seem to be any temperature increase in SSR's attached to these heat sinks. My guess is that heat generated by SSR's is connected with the frequency of being turned on and off, but I'm a chemical engineer, not an electrical one, so that is just a guess! It would be great if someone with actual engineering experience in this area would comment!
You are correct. There is a large finned heat sink that you can get for those SSR's. In every single PID controller I have bought , which is quite a few, I have never had one come with the fin. The kit usually contains a PID, SSR, and K sensor. I have felt the SSR while using the machine and it never seems to get warm. It may be because like you said it is turning off and on a lot but then again I'm not a electrical or chemical engineer. :)
@@BusterBeagle3D The one and only PID controller that I bought, for use as a aluminum casting furnace, came with a finned heat sink. I bought a second SSR and heat sink to go with this, since I used two 120 volt circuits, rather than the one 240 volt circuit from my UK inspiration. But like I said, it doesn't seem like there is NOT a lot of heat being given off by the SSRs. I'm using a duty cycle of 4 seconds, so that the number of transitions is pretty small compared to 60 Hertz. To test this out, maybe I'll try a duty cycle of a 2 Hertz, to see if that causes any noticeable difference. But currently, I'm trying to grok using stepper motors. Right now, the stepper motor that I'm trying to use seems anemic compared to what I'm expecting.
If i were to build this version but have three heated chambers side by side to then have 6” effective pull, could the 6 heaters be powered via one PID controller our would I need to basically have three separate units on the same frame?
I'm not 100% sure but I don't think you would be able to power so many band heaters from 1 PID controller. I'm guessing you would want 1 PID for every 2 band. When you say side by side I assume you mean stacked. Currently the regular chamber with the extension in 6 inches. It may be hard to not only connect more then one but it also might be hard to generate the pressure needed to push plastic out of such a large chamber.
@@BusterBeagle3D ok. Yeah thought you’d need 1 PID per pair of band heaters. Im wanting to do a larger part. So imagine three of your devices standing side by side all injecting into the same mould
I’m guessing you didn’t use that extra handle that you said to keep before. Thank you for this great project. What’s next on your list, a horizontal IMM?
Considering trying injection molding for a part I'm working on, the part is a little under one cubic inch in volume however it's nearly 8 inches long, is the shot volume all that matters? can the machine accommodate a part that large?
As long as it’s not over the 2 cubic inches for the MK2 or 3 cubic inches for the MK3 it should still work. However you may need some extra pressure depending on how thin and detailed some of your parts get. Also don’t forget to preheat the mold to make sure the plastic does not solidify by the time it reaches the end of that 8 inches.
Any particular reason you went with a drill press vise? It is easier to buy and install, but seems much more annoying to use vs a push pull toggle clamp like what LNS technologies sells that you can put your weight onto.
this stood out to me also. I don't see an easier way than mounting the toggle clamp to the tslot...then there needs to be a way to mount your mold to the tslot also,. It would be awfully nice if there were something like a couple of long shoulder bolts to mount the back mold half, with the smooth pin extending through the front mold half with a toggle clamp between. Then I guess you need a back plate to mount the shoulder bolts.
...need to mount the toggle clamp to the front half of the mold too, something like a plastic insert nut with threads on the ID and OD, or maybe a piece of tslot mounted on the front mold half? Not as easy as the drill press vice but seem like it would be a lot quicker to mold.
Hey Ryan - great videos! I was wondering if the new one piece 2in3 kit is compatible with the extension piece for the original kit. Basically I'm interested in a 3 cubic inch shot. Would that be possible? and would the MK2 frame be able to accomodate the 2in3 kit plus an extension? Thanks!
Technically yes to the first question that it will fit on the extended chamber but I don't think the frame as it currently sits can hold it. You also would have to alter the handle to have a pull longer then it currently can do. I haven't done either personally myself. You would also almost certainly have to add band heaters to the design as well as possibly another PID controller.
@@BusterBeagle3D Thanks for the quick response Ryan. Let's say I really wanted to get a bigger shot - I can figure out the frame myself, but could I just connect the additional heater band wires the the wires already coming from the PID and SSR? Or will that overload the components? Could I get around it by switching to larger wires? Thanks again for your awesome videos!
Hi Ryan, I'm almost done building my MKII and have a few loose ends to tie up. The main one right now is replacing the spring that you talk about around the 3:40 mark in the video. I've been to my two local hardware stores and didn't see any springs that matched what you showed in the video. Can you elaborate on the spring you chose - dimensions, source, part number, anything like that?
Hello. I'm not sure if you are the same person that reached out by email this morning but I will let you know the same thing. The spring is listed in the Frame part PDF you can find on the Facebook group files section or on the Thingiverse page. I originally had it listed as a 4.5inch Long 15/32 spring but had updated that to a 3.5 inch 15/32 spring. The 4-1/2 was too long. Really you just want anything in there to provide a little resistance. The problem in the MK2 chamber is so heavy that to get a spring strong enough to hold it up it won't be springy (if that is even a word) to pull down the whole way. I would recommend either way adding the additional springs to the handle to keep it from crashing down on you. I had it come down once and crack me in the head and it didn't feel good. No springs are going to be just right so that's why it's good to come at it from both the handle springs and one in the drill press stand. You can see what I am talking about in the UPDATES video on my RUclips channel. If you can only find a longer spring that is ok as well. The gauge of the spring is so small you can cut it with some wire cutters and make it shorter. Hope this helps.
I know this comment is a few months old, but I thought I'd mention for others that I found a spring on Amazon that's 3 1/2" long by 7/16". That's more than close enough to the suggested 15/32" diameter without being the correct dimension. Can't post a link, of course, but here's the description to search for: Handyman SP 9667 Prime-Line Products Single Loop, Closed Extension Springs, 7/16" x 3-1/2", Nickel.
@@BusterBeagle3D My pleasure! On a side note, would love to see a Discord server pop up at some point. Although I miss the group aspects of the platform, I detoxed myself off of Facebook a while ago. Would still like to participate in the community, though.
Take a look at the pictures on the Thingiverse page. It all has to do with the hole position on your drill press stands. They vary slightly which is the reason for the different versions.
Hi Ryan, thanks for the great work! I'm probably going to build this sometime in future when the parts are available :) One thing I'm curious though, what determines the maximum size of the shot? Is it the capacity of the heat chamber? Thanks!
Hello Denny. Yes the max volume of the chamber determines what the shot volume can be. Since you can not inject into the same mold more then once at a time the volume of the mold can not exceed the volume of the chamber.
Hello. Currently there are no full pre-built kits of this machine. There is a kit that you can buy that has most of the frame parts that you can find here: inventorssource.com/product/busterbeagle-mk2-partial-frame-kit/
Hello. Interested in your machine design. According to the frame, everything is clear - there is a good description. Do you provide drawings of parts that need to be turned on a lathe (plunger, cup, lid)?
I don't currently sell full kits. I have made some in the past and might make some more in the future but I don't have any currently. The best and cheapest way is still to go that DIY route. Thanks!
Hello! They are currently out of stock but I am expecting the new stock to arrive tomorrow. You can find the link to the Etsy store here. I will be updating it as soon as the stock arrives. www.etsy.com/shop/BusterBeagle3D
So I built this and was following the directions for the rex c-100 configurations but my controller behaves differently from the one he shows in the video. I only have 3 digits in my lck screen for example. I also only get three digits in the code screen and am unable to enter the second table to check those values. Any help with this would be greatly appreciated.
Hi. I wouldn’t worry to much about the 2nd table. You might want to set the ARU in the first to 1(different then the video). It puts the PID in a learning mode. Then in COD 001 the one you really want to pay attention to is SLH which is the max temp of the heater bands. Make sure it’s set for less then the rating of your bands. Probably 300-350C or something around there. Hopefully your PID also came with a manual that should tell you how to navigate your specific PID controller but even if it has 3 numbers instead of 4 it should still function pretty much the same way.
I think that the 2 cubic inches would be about the largest this design could reasonably handle. You could check out the precious plastic website to see some designs that might be able to handle larger volumes but may be harder to make.
Oh and I forgot to mention, the drill stand will heat up a bunch. I put kapton tape on the pid controller box, used washers with kapton tap where there are screws etc
So bummed that RUclips showed me the version 1 video a couple months back but not this version 2! I almost wasted my money (well, seeing as I would definitely have gone for v2 if I had known). Anyway, Crafsman came through and said “this is V2”. 😮 V2あるの？？
There is an upgrade part that converts the MK1 into the MK2. All of the electrical is the same so you could easily move from one to the other. I currently now also sell a longer chamber as one piece instead of the extension but they both have the same volume either way.
Wow. It actually didn't occur to me that I had not posted a video of the 2 cubic inch shot in action. I guess it's because I made something that size to show can be done but was making things smaller since then. I will need to put a video together of a shot that size soon. Here is an image of the 2 cubic inch coin I made just to verify the size. photos.google.com/share/AF1QipP-JagYrEOwi6LlsFa-OlFJEVQuHxO5vUh7h0jyWUTlKX_wv-v9Vp0_TIpX-xH34w?key=bmNjdDZHazljTTRpdWtyR1NaUGJuNEs4MnJZeTl3
Unfortunately I don't have the Square site setup for international orders since it's only available in certain countries anyway. I may need to research the more since the selling fees are lower. For international the Etsy store is the way to go for now. Thanks
The shipping cost are based on the weight of the items that are being shipped. These are all heavy metal components so they cost what it costs to ship them. I make no money off of the shipping costs and to be honest with some countries I actually lose some money on shipping since it actually costs more then I charge. The MK3 bundles for instance are over 10lbs in the US that is $16.50(Medium flat rate cost), Canada $54, Everywhere else in the world I charge $75. However if it goes to Japan it cost me $95, Germany $78, UK $79, Australia $88, Spain $79, Korea $80. So you can see if anything I'm actually supplementing shipping in many cases.
Would you consider posting the design of the chamber and extension for sale so we can make them ourselves? Would also help take pressure off of you since they are difficult to keep in stock ;)
Hello, Unfortunately since it is a design the I manufacture and sell it is not a design that I release. I understand that it is currently on backorder but I have 400 on the way and should have them very soon. There are still some pre-orders on Etsy available right now that should so out at the end of this week.
Thanks for pointing that out! That's actually a left over from an older version of the handle that used extra springs to hold the handle up. I will update the pdf to remove them. You really only need 1 for the handle now.
@@KernsJW I could measure and add lengths as well. There are 2 pdfs, the one with the wires laid out was meant to be printed and used as a guide for the lengths. When I have a chance to update that pdf with wire lengths I will.
@@KernsJW Honestly it's not that bad. I'm not sure that it's really that much longer. I'm also not sure you can run 3 off of the same PID controller. You could always use larger band heaters if you wanted to as well. Just keep the diameter to 35mm.
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
Hey Ryan! Fantastic design! I originally went with the LNS 150A, ready-to-go (and don't regret it - it's a nice little machine), but this 2CU" shot size has got me wanting to build it for larger parts.
Also, I'll be sending my more DIY-inclined viewers your way. THANK YOU for sharing this with folks.
Thank you CrafsMan! I appreciate it and love your channel. Stay tuned for updates coming soon and potentially even a MK3 on the way!
Yup. I came over from TheCrafsMan channel.
@@BusterBeagle3D Cannot wait to see the MK3. This is awesome!
I didn't even consider getting into this industry till I saw what Ryan built. Brilliantly taking what was available out there and repurposing it into a better, more useful tool.
This is a huge step for me, getting away from 3D printed prototypes while avoiding the prototyping costs a pla$tic injector would need to charge.
Huge!
I can't recommend building this machine enough. Ryan's customer service is fantastic. He's so fast to respond and has been so helpful. Big ups to Ryan for helping so many of us turn trash into treasure.
Thank you! I appreciate the it very much!
I’m from da crafssssmannn clannnn love this
Hello and welcome! Thank you for stopping by!
Thank you for this!!! I've been wanting to get into injection molding on a small scale for a long time, but couldn't justify the amount of money needed to be spent. THIS will open up all sorts of opportunities though!
Thank you! Glad you like it!
Ive been waiting for this! Thank you. Looking forward to when you have more parts back in stock
Sorry it took so long!
Looking good Ryan!
OUTSTANDING video!
This is the setup I need
Glad you like it!
Looks like a very good, robust design. I might be back to you on that one 😄. Great job ryan, truly.
Thank you!
Awesome! I just bought this because it's perfect for what I needed. Thank you for making my life easier. :)
You are welcome! Thank you!
Leave it to someone in the maker and open source community to figure out how to dramatically reduce barriers to entry along with price while not sacrificing quality.
Thank you. I appreciate it.
Explain and who is that someone?
That looks like a really good design and somthing I am really thinking about after I move to my bigger home with a bigger workshop in a few weeks
great work, ill be grabbing material for this from you soon! Great addition to the shop!
Very good Machine, we thought of Placing the order to procure the machine for small plastic Parts.
For the cost, this is a no-brainer. Like $350 for the machine with 2.0 in.^3 upgraded capacity even if you go with the pre-sourced frame kit... Just buy it. The Galomb is $4500 for 1.0 in^3 capacity and the LNS 150A is $1800 for 1.1 in.^3 capacity. Seems very accessible even for someone without an engineering background
A+ work, more people should be making these!!
Is it worth upgrading to a 25mm linear shaft for the original moulder in your opinion? My injection cylinder arrives Monday so thinking about sourcing the other parts. I know those drill presses can be a bit flexible and flimsy. Great work btw 👍🏼
To be honest I would try the smaller version first just to see how it feels or works for you. You can always upgrade if you feel the volume is too small for you. If you use it without cranking down to hard on the handle you should be good. If you start doing more and more and want a more rigid machine then upgrade part as you see fit.
I’d love to have the list for the build. Thank you.
In case others are confused like I was, there are two thingiverse links, the smaller machine link has the wiring PDFs, the bigger machine link has the new frame as well as the stls.
I bought a long 3/8 -16 rod and cut that up for the pludger and the guide rod. Added a nut at the bottom and top versus using a c clip. ACE Hardware had the same 3/8 handle as the printed one.
Oh yeah, I could NOT get those heater bands on, so I bought M6 35mm screws and that worked well.
For the black drill press stop, I bought a longer screw with a handle to allow easy adjustment. Used a spacer to help allow it to spin while tightening.
The handle annoyed me, as you tighten the screw to hold up the assembly it tightens the handle down. I widened the hole in the handle, added an aluminum spacer, and no more annoyance.
Sorry for any confusion. You are correct. This is meant as an upgrade to the original machine. The original video was so long that I didn't want to repeat it all again here.
@@BusterBeagle3D no worries, I just kept clicking the new link and then finally realized the reference to the old!!! I was like where the heck are these wiring PDFs!
The shot size blows much more expensive machines out of the water! About how long would you estimate it takes to build the whole thing?
It's hard to say since I know what I'm doing when I do it since I have made so many but I would say it should probably take about 2-3 hours with all of the wiring and frame assembly.
@@BusterBeagle3D Thanks, that is helpful. Trying to figure out if we can shoot ABS with this. Pressure is the concern. What is the diameter of the chamber?
Got an upgrade part for the existing heat chambers out there?
Still waiting on new endmills from when I broke trying to cut molds but ordered the frame nonetheless.
It only for sale currently on the Etsy site until I get my large order in. I'll update the description with a link. Thanks
Make sure you tune the PID controller! Before connecting to the heaters. I had to quickly drop the temperature as they started to emit smoke. Pids were way off, wrong thermocouple, and it was set to amps instead of volts. Also the video c100 link was pretty good. I can tell he knew what a PID settings was. Other videos I looked at did not! The settings were pretty good, but he didn't tell you what each thing means. Also the PID were off a bit, so it was slow to heat and over shot a bit. I updated mine and now it goes up a bit faster and only goes over by a half or 1 C. I also adjusted my upper heat range to 295c. I hope the 300 is accurate
Your PID controller should have come with a manual that tells you what each settings means but I guess not every one does. Here is a link that might let you know a little more what each thing is. It may not be the exact same thing as yours but it would probably be close. www.vistronica.com/images/Documentos/REX-C100.pdf
@@BusterBeagle3D it seems all have different settings and screens. Also, the version I got doesn't properly control output through a voltage controller, but with a direct current dump. It immediately pushes the heaters to 500 F. Even if you are just going from 30 to 40 C. Its not bad if jumping to 250C from 20C, but small changes its not going to work. I bought a new controller with voltage control. Also, I have a full settings file for it from the manufacturer. Breme and RKC look like good options. I thought it was an RKC, but it was an RKG..... Amazon is allowing me to return it
Nice tutorial, for bigger injection volume I recommend Precious plastic injection machine. :) Its also opensource..
The one with the 5 ton log splitter? Looks pretty darned dangerous to me.
@@shedtime_au I use man powered machine and I am still alive after 1 year of using it
I'm thinking that these hot ends could benefit from being insulated (heat wise) from the frame. Especially considering Ryan's comments about the benefits of wrapping the hot end with insulating muffler wrap or similar.
Hey Ryan, In the middle of building the kit. How should the total travel be for the plunger in the final assembly. Also how long of a 3/8" rod is needed to replace the one from the factory? Also, I can't find a drill press top anywhere so I'm using a shaft collar from Amazon.
You need a travel of at least 6 inches to fully evacuate the chamber. I use a 12 inch threaded rod but as long as it's around 9 inches or so it will be fine. For the drill press stands you will not be able to find the brackets as separate pieces. You have to purchase 2 drill press stands and use those parts that way. Be sure to watch the original injection molding machine video first before trying to assemble the MK2. Glad to hear it's coming together!
@@BusterBeagle3D Thanks this helps so much! I just finished assembling mine today. Your videos really helped.
@@terisan2002 Glad to help! Would love to know how it's working for you.
@@BusterBeagle3D Got it together and it works pretty great. My 3 hurdles in assembling the kit were. 1. The M8 cap socket bolts sold at Lowes had a head height that interfered with the drill press stand. 2. The PID box was hitting the back horizontal bar due to how I assembled the kit. 3. The thermocouple wire is super sensitive to motion during injection and sometimes reads a spiked temp. It'll set off the oooo alarm. I bought some molds and plastic from LNS and have been happily injecting for the past few days.
@@terisan2002 Glad you got it up and running! I would check and make sure there is no exposed wire on the thermocouple wire making it short out and read 0000. That is not a normal thing that happens with that wire. Something may be loose or as you pull down you may be touching another wire or the frame or something.
I'm looking at building this but 35x35 heater bands are oddly hardly to find in Australia... What is the actual outter diameter and length (of the heater section) of the heater chamber? Given you have to open up the 35mm ones in original video to allow for the sensor etc, but with the extended heat chamber that wouldn't be required so hoping to find a different heater band that will work. Thank you in advance
The diameter is 38mm the length is about 62mm. If you purchase the Bundle version off of the Etsy site you can get a version that comes with 2 band heaters as well. They are 110V but that just means you have to hook them up in series in Australia instead of parallel like we do in the US.
Ryan, super nice work, thanks for your hard work and sharing. We have a few small projects we would like to make, Polypropylene and maybe a Bayblend (a mixture of ABS and PC). Each component comes in less than 1.0 Cub. in. but there are some pretty intricate details were concerned about. Concern #1, do you think one needs "bleed holes" or vent holes to allow the plastic flow to the smaller intricate pockets, or is this even a concern? #2 How much pressure is actually required to push the plastic into the cavities, ie. can we leverage enough force to push the plastic into tiny areas? I know its a case by case issue but have you had experience in making intricate components? Thx Again, love your work BTW I'll be 3D printing our molds don't expect to get a lot of production out each mold, thinking some Sirya Tech resins, they read real well
Thank you! I'm far from a mold expert but you might be able to find a few folks on the Buster Beagle 3D facebook group that are. I haven't made anything that was too intricate yet but there might be some people over on the group who have.
I have also used the Sirya Tech high heat resins with good results. Good luck!
@@BusterBeagle3D Thank you so much !
Good stuff 👍🏼👏🏻
Waiting for the pieces 😜
Pieces sent! Should be there on Wednesday!
I’m interested in making my own molding machine. So if I wanted to do a dual nozzle setup what would be required to add on sensor and heater bands
Hi, very very nice! Just enjoyed your first Injection Machine 1.0 video. Very good, I like these kind of DIY vids that show quality and ease and easy enough to assemble. Are there 220/240V versions available too? Also, I'm new with this, but does the molten pellets tend to squirt out at the top (insert) somewhat when applying the pressure?
You can hook up the 110V band heater in series if you are outside the US. Inside the US the band heaters are hooked up in parallel. There is a diagram in the pictures of the Etsy listing that explain this for those outside the US.
Also the tolerance in the plunger should not really allow plastic to escape the top. I suppose it can happen and I have seen it once or twice but it is not the norm.
Would you be able to add another heat chamber to this and it work the same still?
I'm sorry I'm not sure what you mean. Like run 2 chambers at the same time?
@@BusterBeagle3D i mean like the heat chamber extension. But I guess I’m really asking if I can use this same setup with the mk3 heating chamber?
I'm not sure if it matters in this case, but in other use cases, those SSR's are mounted on substantial finned heat sinks. It seems off to just attach them to a plastic 3D printed housing. OTOH, in my case, there doesn't seem to be any temperature increase in SSR's attached to these heat sinks. My guess is that heat generated by SSR's is connected with the frequency of being turned on and off, but I'm a chemical engineer, not an electrical one, so that is just a guess! It would be great if someone with actual engineering experience in this area would comment!
You are correct. There is a large finned heat sink that you can get for those SSR's. In every single PID controller I have bought , which is quite a few, I have never had one come with the fin. The kit usually contains a PID, SSR, and K sensor. I have felt the SSR while using the machine and it never seems to get warm. It may be because like you said it is turning off and on a lot but then again I'm not a electrical or chemical engineer. :)
@@BusterBeagle3D The one and only PID controller that I bought, for use as a aluminum casting furnace, came with a finned heat sink. I bought a second SSR and heat sink to go with this, since I used two 120 volt circuits, rather than the one 240 volt circuit from my UK inspiration. But like I said, it doesn't seem like there is NOT a lot of heat being given off by the SSRs. I'm using a duty cycle of 4 seconds, so that the number of transitions is pretty small compared to 60 Hertz. To test this out, maybe I'll try a duty cycle of a 2 Hertz, to see if that causes any noticeable difference. But currently, I'm trying to grok using stepper motors. Right now, the stepper motor that I'm trying to use seems anemic compared to what I'm expecting.
If i were to build this version but have three heated chambers side by side to then have 6” effective pull, could the 6 heaters be powered via one PID controller our would I need to basically have three separate units on the same frame?
I'm not 100% sure but I don't think you would be able to power so many band heaters from 1 PID controller. I'm guessing you would want 1 PID for every 2 band. When you say side by side I assume you mean stacked. Currently the regular chamber with the extension in 6 inches. It may be hard to not only connect more then one but it also might be hard to generate the pressure needed to push plastic out of such a large chamber.
@@BusterBeagle3D ok. Yeah thought you’d need 1 PID per pair of band heaters.
Im wanting to do a larger part.
So imagine three of your devices standing side by side all injecting into the same mould
@@Jledcustoms Looking at eventually doing something similar. Did you ever make any progress on this?
@@john_t_england not as yet
I’m guessing you didn’t use that extra handle that you said to keep before.
Thank you for this great project. What’s next on your list, a horizontal IMM?
No. I actually tried with that handle first but it didn't seem to be strong enough. I felt it was better to beef it up with a stronger handle.
Next on the list......sleep.
@@BusterBeagle3D LOL
Considering trying injection molding for a part I'm working on, the part is a little under one cubic inch in volume however it's nearly 8 inches long, is the shot volume all that matters? can the machine accommodate a part that large?
As long as it’s not over the 2 cubic inches for the MK2 or 3 cubic inches for the MK3 it should still work. However you may need some extra pressure depending on how thin and detailed some of your parts get. Also don’t forget to preheat the mold to make sure the plastic does not solidify by the time it reaches the end of that 8 inches.
@@BusterBeagle3D awesome! Thanks for getting back to me so quickly!
Love it! How many ounces is a 2 shot capacity?
If you are talking a US fluid ounces conversion then 2 cubic inches is 1.1 fluid ounces.
@@BusterBeagle3D Thank you!
Any particular reason you went with a drill press vise? It is easier to buy and install, but seems much more annoying to use vs a push pull toggle clamp like what LNS technologies sells that you can put your weight onto.
I just used it because I had it. You could of course add any type of clamp that you would like.
this stood out to me also. I don't see an easier way than mounting the toggle clamp to the tslot...then there needs to be a way to mount your mold to the tslot also,. It would be awfully nice if there were something like a couple of long shoulder bolts to mount the back mold half, with the smooth pin extending through the front mold half with a toggle clamp between. Then I guess you need a back plate to mount the shoulder bolts.
...need to mount the toggle clamp to the front half of the mold too, something like a plastic insert nut with threads on the ID and OD, or maybe a piece of tslot mounted on the front mold half? Not as easy as the drill press vice but seem like it would be a lot quicker to mold.
Hey Ryan - great videos! I was wondering if the new one piece 2in3 kit is compatible with the extension piece for the original kit. Basically I'm interested in a 3 cubic inch shot. Would that be possible? and would the MK2 frame be able to accomodate the 2in3 kit plus an extension? Thanks!
Technically yes to the first question that it will fit on the extended chamber but I don't think the frame as it currently sits can hold it. You also would have to alter the handle to have a pull longer then it currently can do. I haven't done either personally myself. You would also almost certainly have to add band heaters to the design as well as possibly another PID controller.
@@BusterBeagle3D Thanks for the quick response Ryan. Let's say I really wanted to get a bigger shot - I can figure out the frame myself, but could I just connect the additional heater band wires the the wires already coming from the PID and SSR? Or will that overload the components? Could I get around it by switching to larger wires? Thanks again for your awesome videos!
Hi Ryan, I'm almost done building my MKII and have a few loose ends to tie up. The main one right now is replacing the spring that you talk about around the 3:40 mark in the video. I've been to my two local hardware stores and didn't see any springs that matched what you showed in the video. Can you elaborate on the spring you chose - dimensions, source, part number, anything like that?
Hello. I'm not sure if you are the same person that reached out by email this morning but I will let you know the same thing. The spring is listed in the Frame part PDF you can find on the Facebook group files section or on the Thingiverse page. I originally had it listed as a 4.5inch Long 15/32 spring but had updated that to a 3.5 inch 15/32 spring. The 4-1/2 was too long. Really you just want anything in there to provide a little resistance. The problem in the MK2 chamber is so heavy that to get a spring strong enough to hold it up it won't be springy (if that is even a word) to pull down the whole way. I would recommend either way adding the additional springs to the handle to keep it from crashing down on you. I had it come down once and crack me in the head and it didn't feel good. No springs are going to be just right so that's why it's good to come at it from both the handle springs and one in the drill press stand. You can see what I am talking about in the UPDATES video on my RUclips channel. If you can only find a longer spring that is ok as well. The gauge of the spring is so small you can cut it with some wire cutters and make it shorter. Hope this helps.
I know this comment is a few months old, but I thought I'd mention for others that I found a spring on Amazon that's 3 1/2" long by 7/16". That's more than close enough to the suggested 15/32" diameter without being the correct dimension. Can't post a link, of course, but here's the description to search for: Handyman SP 9667 Prime-Line Products Single Loop, Closed Extension Springs, 7/16" x 3-1/2", Nickel.
@@john_t_england Thank you for the update. Yeah I don't have any control over the posting of links but thanks for the info for people to find it!
@@BusterBeagle3D My pleasure! On a side note, would love to see a Discord server pop up at some point. Although I miss the group aspects of the platform, I detoxed myself off of Facebook a while ago. Would still like to participate in the community, though.
This is SO COOL!!!! :-)
Thank you!
Should we expect to see you injecting your own grots soon?
Great stuff!
How do you determine what STL version to print for the pid case enclosure?
Take a look at the pictures on the Thingiverse page. It all has to do with the hole position on your drill press stands. They vary slightly which is the reason for the different versions.
Hey Ryan, could you consider selling a PID controller pre-wired to a band heater on your website? I'd buy that in a heart beat.
Thanks.
Hi Ryan, thanks for the great work! I'm probably going to build this sometime in future when the parts are available :)
One thing I'm curious though, what determines the maximum size of the shot? Is it the capacity of the heat chamber?
Thanks!
Hello Denny. Yes the max volume of the chamber determines what the shot volume can be. Since you can not inject into the same mold more then once at a time the volume of the mold can not exceed the volume of the chamber.
Hello, is the MKII available in a complete kit or mostly assembled? Thanks
Hello. Currently there are no full pre-built kits of this machine. There is a kit that you can buy that has most of the frame parts that you can find here: inventorssource.com/product/busterbeagle-mk2-partial-frame-kit/
@@BusterBeagle3D Thanks! Have you been able to do any type of flexible TPU type parts with this machine?
Hello. Interested in your machine design. According to the frame, everything is clear - there is a good description. Do you provide drawings of parts that need to be turned on a lathe (plunger, cup, lid)?
Hello. Since those are parts I currently manufacture and sell I don’t release plans for those. Sorry about that. Thanks for watching!
Well, I know what I want for Christmas.
I should buy some bows to get ready. :)
@@BusterBeagle3D dang straight!
Hey Ryan do you sell the full kit? I will love to purchase one from you plz!
I don't currently sell full kits. I have made some in the past and might make some more in the future but I don't have any currently. The best and cheapest way is still to go that DIY route. Thanks!
you have read my mind somehow lol
Help! I want to order all the parts to make my own injection molder. However I cannot find your links to be able too.
Hello! They are currently out of stock but I am expecting the new stock to arrive tomorrow. You can find the link to the Etsy store here. I will be updating it as soon as the stock arrives. www.etsy.com/shop/BusterBeagle3D
So I built this and was following the directions for the rex c-100 configurations but my controller behaves differently from the one he shows in the video. I only have 3 digits in my lck screen for example. I also only get three digits in the code screen and am unable to enter the second table to check those values. Any help with this would be greatly appreciated.
Hi. I wouldn’t worry to much about the 2nd table. You might want to set the ARU in the first to 1(different then the video). It puts the PID in a learning mode. Then in COD 001 the one you really want to pay attention to is SLH which is the max temp of the heater bands. Make sure it’s set for less then the rating of your bands. Probably 300-350C or something around there. Hopefully your PID also came with a manual that should tell you how to navigate your specific PID controller but even if it has 3 numbers instead of 4 it should still function pretty much the same way.
@@BusterBeagle3D Thanks a bunch, this is exactly the info I was looking for.
Is there a way to increase the shot volume even more beyond this? I’d buy today if you can tell me how
I think that the 2 cubic inches would be about the largest this design could reasonably handle. You could check out the precious plastic website to see some designs that might be able to handle larger volumes but may be harder to make.
Oh and I forgot to mention, the drill stand will heat up a bunch. I put kapton tape on the pid controller box, used washers with kapton tap where there are screws etc
So bummed that RUclips showed me the version 1 video a couple months back but not this version 2! I almost wasted my money (well, seeing as I would definitely have gone for v2 if I had known).
Anyway, Crafsman came through and said “this is V2”. 😮 V2あるの？？
There is an upgrade part that converts the MK1 into the MK2. All of the electrical is the same so you could easily move from one to the other. I currently now also sell a longer chamber as one piece instead of the extension but they both have the same volume either way.
so where is the video on 2 cubic inch shot size parts?
Wow. It actually didn't occur to me that I had not posted a video of the 2 cubic inch shot in action. I guess it's because I made something that size to show can be done but was making things smaller since then. I will need to put a video together of a shot that size soon. Here is an image of the 2 cubic inch coin I made just to verify the size. photos.google.com/share/AF1QipP-JagYrEOwi6LlsFa-OlFJEVQuHxO5vUh7h0jyWUTlKX_wv-v9Vp0_TIpX-xH34w?key=bmNjdDZHazljTTRpdWtyR1NaUGJuNEs4MnJZeTl3
Does your Square site ship to Canada, or should I stick with Etsy shop?
Unfortunately I don't have the Square site setup for international orders since it's only available in certain countries anyway. I may need to research the more since the selling fees are lower. For international the Etsy store is the way to go for now. Thanks
Why is shipping so much on everything you sell or promote for the injection molding press?
The shipping cost are based on the weight of the items that are being shipped. These are all heavy metal components so they cost what it costs to ship them. I make no money off of the shipping costs and to be honest with some countries I actually lose some money on shipping since it actually costs more then I charge. The MK3 bundles for instance are over 10lbs in the US that is $16.50(Medium flat rate cost), Canada $54, Everywhere else in the world I charge $75. However if it goes to Japan it cost me $95, Germany $78, UK $79, Australia $88, Spain $79, Korea $80. So you can see if anything I'm actually supplementing shipping in many cases.
Is the kit not goign to be sold anymore on etsy ? I see that it is not listed anymore ? :(
Yes! Very soon. Just waiting on a truck to pick up a container at the harbor in Long Beach and I should have them back in stock very soon!
Would you consider posting the design of the chamber and extension for sale so we can make them ourselves? Would also help take pressure off of you since they are difficult to keep in stock ;)
Hello, Unfortunately since it is a design the I manufacture and sell it is not a design that I release. I understand that it is currently on backorder but I have 400 on the way and should have them very soon. There are still some pre-orders on Etsy available right now that should so out at the end of this week.
Is the extension tube on the store somewhere?
It's only available thought the Etsy site currently. When I receive my larger order in it will be available on both sites.
Smart
Would this work with rubber?
As long as it can be melted under 300-400 degrees Celsius and inject at a pressure under around 1000 pounds of pressure. It should work.
Would you sell the machine assembled?
can i use this for chocolate ???
Not exactly made for that but I suppose it's possible. Nozzle hole may be too large.
Why does the PDF say 8 M8 washers?
Thanks for pointing that out! That's actually a left over from an older version of the handle that used extra springs to hold the handle up. I will update the pdf to remove them. You really only need 1 for the handle now.
@@BusterBeagle3D wiring guides are nice, what about adding lengths?
@@KernsJW I could measure and add lengths as well. There are 2 pdfs, the one with the wires laid out was meant to be printed and used as a guide for the lengths. When I have a chance to update that pdf with wire lengths I will.
@@BusterBeagle3D if you dont mind me asking, how is the heat up time with the extension? It seems you could fit 3 bands!
@@KernsJW Honestly it's not that bad. I'm not sure that it's really that much longer. I'm also not sure you can run 3 off of the same PID controller. You could always use larger band heaters if you wanted to as well. Just keep the diameter to 35mm.
Heya, the Thingiverse link is broken :X
Thanks for the heads up! Forgot to push that Publish button. :)
PDF link is missing.
Sorry about that. You can find the pfd in the thingiverse site here: www.thingiverse.com/thing:4799033/files
@@BusterBeagle3D No worries, parts ordered.