No problem. I didn't even know that they made PID controllers with that difference until I bought a case of them. Took me a minute to figure that out as well.
@@vesslades Sorry about that. I posted that in the Facebook Group for the machine a while ago when I figured it out but never added it in a video until now.
@@BusterBeagle3D Hi, got a question for you. I've set up my controller according to these steps but I still get the same issues I had last night (before touching any settings) It gets waaaaaay to hot and the steam stinks down my entire place.. I tried measuring the temp with an IR thermometer which is hard on shiny objects but I got values over the set 200 degrees, highest I could read was 270. Eventually the thermometer started to scream that the Max temp was reached (400 according to the label on it) Any ideas what might be wrong? I've got a K sensor according to the ebay page. But something's very off with this. Thanks mate
I did as you said and it still allows me to set over 300 on the main screen. Is that supposed to be like that? Will it just ignore the setting and just heat up to 300? Confusing... My manual also came all in chinese lol
Alright I had a look at the rest of the setting and I've found out that you also need to set SuH (Set value High - highest value you can set) to 300. You might as well set SuL(Set value Low) from -20 to 20 or even 150, because you never actually will need to go lower than like 150.
You are correct. I like to be able to set the machine to zero if I’m doing something with the PID controller and I don’t want the bands heating up but you are correct that the negative values are not necessary with this setup.
What temperature are you using for Polypropylen? I had the issue that die PP cold down to fast while injecting, leaving me with a half full mold... Since that I use 270°C for Polypropylen, but I don't know, if that's to bot😅
If you are using an aluminum mold you should heat your mold first before you use it. After a few shots inside the mold the temp of the plastic will keep the mold hot. I was using 250C for PP but then realized that the melt temp was 160C so I started shooting much closer to that. I was using 160C in the SLA 3D printed molds that I will be making a video about shortly.
Hey couldn't find if you already answered these questions or not but with the bigger chamber do you know about how long your time is between shots? Also curious where you get your pellets and if you've tried TPU? Just saw you got some items back in stock and hoping to buy soon.
If you completely empty the chamber it does take 2-3 minutes between shots to be able to shoot again. This also depends on your temp and the material used. I have not tried TPU myself but if you ask around the Buster Beagle 3D Facebook group you may find other who have.
I don't have any lists other then what is listed in the description of the original video. It's hard to keep links to these parts active since people sell out or stop carrying them at all together. I also provide the links more as a idea of what you need and not really where to buy them except for the chambers which I actually sell. I encourage people to shop around and find the best cost of the other parts depending on where you live.
I'm also looking into making a limited number of kits that can be purchased. Keep an eye on the Square site for when I might be able to offer those. The cheapest option would still be DIY.
Hi. I have not tried latex or silicon molds in an aluminum frame but believe other have done so. Feel free to check out the Buster Beagle 3D Facebook group. I’m actually testing 3D printed molds but ran into an issue where my printer broke and I’m waiting on parts to fix it. Hope to have a video out soon after I do.
If you are asking how fast can you produce a part I would say 1 every minute or so. You need to have a little time for the mold to cool down between shots. The process usually goes, shoot the plastic, hold down for about 10 seconds, remove the chamber from the mold, refill the chamber with pellets, then remove the mold from the clamps and carefully demold your part. Then repeat.
Do you know if a thermoplastic polymorph would work in this? I don't know if that is the right term but looking to use this machine on the type of plastics that get soft and are moldable when put in 150°f water then will harden once cooled.
I haven't tried using something like that in this machine but I'm not sure if it would work. From my understanding that material almost feels like the consistency of clay when you are molding with it. I'm not sure it would have the ability to be extruded from the nozzle opening into a cavity. Seems like you should be able to simply warm it up and press it between a mold if that is what you are trying to achieve. This is all a guess however since I have not used it.
I'm not sure that would be possible with a machine of this size and pressure. If you think about how large that could be if you injected a sheet that was 1mm thick the sheet would be 3x3 feet wide. I would think that would require more pressure then you could manually pull with the machine as it sits now. Even if you increase the length of the handle to increase the pressure I'm not sure the other components could handle the force. I might be wrong and I would love to see if you can pull it off.
But if I have a longer barrel can I add more heating bands and stay around 120? And how wide would I be able to make nozzle before it doesn’t heat it consistently
@@TheMrstambaugh The barrels do a pretty decent job of dispersing the heat so I'm not sure how many you would need. I'm no electrician so I'm not sure how many heat bands the PID and SSD can handle. You may need to add more then one PID setup on the machine almost like running 2 machines. I have not tried such a large setup so I would only be guessing.
It depends on the setup of your PID. There is a setting in the COD 001 under the setting called UNIT. When UNIT=0 it's Celsius, UNIT=1 it's Fahrenheit. By default it's set to C I believe.
Just ordered your kit. I have a controller already. I also have a rather large standing drill press, and I'm going to investigate utilizing your plunger and heater block with the drill press as the pressure mechanism. Are you aware of others doing this? Is there a facebook group or anything?
Hello. There is a Buster Beagle 3D Facebook group but I have not seen someone do that yet. You would need to figure out how to mount the chamber in something on the drill press. The diameter of the part you need to mount is 42.5mm if that helps you out.
As much as I would like to I really don't have the bandwidth to make molds for customers. I'm not really a pro at it either. I would suggest posting in the Buster Beagle 3D Facebook Group or even the small scale injection molding group and you can find someone willing to make molds. There are also many CNC groups out there where you could also find people to take that on.
I wish there was a way to mute the stupid repetitive music. That said, the project is very interesting and well thought out. I'll have to tune back in when I can deal with the distraction better.
So helpful, my PID works so much better now.
Great to hear!
Sweet!! I was just about to ask for updates.
great, love the improvements
Thanks!
Awesome! This may be why mine doesn't heat! the polarity thing, I've got one of those "Good-Y" controllers. Thanks for this
No problem. I didn't even know that they made PID controllers with that difference until I bought a case of them. Took me a minute to figure that out as well.
@@BusterBeagle3D It worked, that was the issue. Been wondering about this for a while
@@vesslades Sorry about that. I posted that in the Facebook Group for the machine a while ago when I figured it out but never added it in a video until now.
@@BusterBeagle3D No worries! Haven't had the time to start using it anyhow. Glad it finally works though
@@BusterBeagle3D Hi, got a question for you. I've set up my controller according to these steps but I still get the same issues I had last night (before touching any settings) It gets waaaaaay to hot and the steam stinks down my entire place.. I tried measuring the temp with an IR thermometer which is hard on shiny objects but I got values over the set 200 degrees, highest I could read was 270. Eventually the thermometer started to scream that the Max temp was reached (400 according to the label on it)
Any ideas what might be wrong? I've got a K sensor according to the ebay page.
But something's very off with this.
Thanks mate
I did as you said and it still allows me to set over 300 on the main screen.
Is that supposed to be like that?
Will it just ignore the setting and just heat up to 300?
Confusing...
My manual also came all in chinese lol
Alright I had a look at the rest of the setting and I've found out that you also need to set SuH (Set value High - highest value you can set) to 300.
You might as well set SuL(Set value Low) from -20 to 20 or even 150, because you never actually will need to go lower than like 150.
You are correct. I like to be able to set the machine to zero if I’m doing something with the PID controller and I don’t want the bands heating up but you are correct that the negative values are not necessary with this setup.
@@BusterBeagle3D Yeah I've set it to 20 for that exact reason.
What temperature are you using for Polypropylen?
I had the issue that die PP cold down to fast while injecting, leaving me with a half full mold...
Since that I use 270°C for Polypropylen, but I don't know, if that's to bot😅
If you are using an aluminum mold you should heat your mold first before you use it. After a few shots inside the mold the temp of the plastic will keep the mold hot. I was using 250C for PP but then realized that the melt temp was 160C so I started shooting much closer to that. I was using 160C in the SLA 3D printed molds that I will be making a video about shortly.
Hey couldn't find if you already answered these questions or not but with the bigger chamber do you know about how long your time is between shots? Also curious where you get your pellets and if you've tried TPU? Just saw you got some items back in stock and hoping to buy soon.
If you completely empty the chamber it does take 2-3 minutes between shots to be able to shoot again. This also depends on your temp and the material used. I have not tried TPU myself but if you ask around the Buster Beagle 3D Facebook group you may find other who have.
@@BusterBeagle3D Perfect, didn't know about the Facebook group I'll have to check it out. Thanks!
Did you ever put together at that all-encompassing buylist you mentioned? I'm pretty bad about ordering things online.
I don't have any lists other then what is listed in the description of the original video. It's hard to keep links to these parts active since people sell out or stop carrying them at all together. I also provide the links more as a idea of what you need and not really where to buy them except for the chambers which I actually sell. I encourage people to shop around and find the best cost of the other parts depending on where you live.
I'm also looking into making a limited number of kits that can be purchased. Keep an eye on the Square site for when I might be able to offer those. The cheapest option would still be DIY.
@@BusterBeagle3D Ah.. I gotcha. Thank you
Have you attempted to do a pull on latex moulds (with a solid mother mould)?
Hi. I have not tried latex or silicon molds in an aluminum frame but believe other have done so. Feel free to check out the Buster Beagle 3D Facebook group. I’m actually testing 3D printed molds but ran into an issue where my printer broke and I’m waiting on parts to fix it. Hope to have a video out soon after I do.
What size production could a set up like this handle on a small one inch sized plug?
If you are asking how fast can you produce a part I would say 1 every minute or so. You need to have a little time for the mold to cool down between shots. The process usually goes, shoot the plastic, hold down for about 10 seconds, remove the chamber from the mold, refill the chamber with pellets, then remove the mold from the clamps and carefully demold your part. Then repeat.
Links for thermal paste and heat sink are both for the thermal paste...
Opps! That's what I get for posting at 3AM. Thanks for catching that. I fixed it.
Do you know if a thermoplastic polymorph would work in this? I don't know if that is the right term but looking to use this machine on the type of plastics that get soft and are moldable when put in 150°f water then will harden once cooled.
I haven't tried using something like that in this machine but I'm not sure if it would work. From my understanding that material almost feels like the consistency of clay when you are molding with it. I'm not sure it would have the ability to be extruded from the nozzle opening into a cavity. Seems like you should be able to simply warm it up and press it between a mold if that is what you are trying to achieve. This is all a guess however since I have not used it.
Would it be overkill to attach a small fan to blow across the fins of the solid state relay?
Maybe. My first version of the build didn't even have the fin and it worked fine. Not sure it would need a fan but it wouldn't hurt.
Have a suggestion to upgrade it to shoot 7in cubed? Besides multiple nozzles
I'm not sure that would be possible with a machine of this size and pressure. If you think about how large that could be if you injected a sheet that was 1mm thick the sheet would be 3x3 feet wide. I would think that would require more pressure then you could manually pull with the machine as it sits now. Even if you increase the length of the handle to increase the pressure I'm not sure the other components could handle the force. I might be wrong and I would love to see if you can pull it off.
I thought that as well so to go around was thinking of using a 5 ton actuator. Specifically off of a log splitter
But if I have a longer barrel can I add more heating bands and stay around 120? And how wide would I be able to make nozzle before it doesn’t heat it consistently
@@TheMrstambaugh The barrels do a pretty decent job of dispersing the heat so I'm not sure how many you would need. I'm no electrician so I'm not sure how many heat bands the PID and SSD can handle. You may need to add more then one PID setup on the machine almost like running 2 machines. I have not tried such a large setup so I would only be guessing.
Is it not possible to swap the SSR to one that fails open?
I'm not sure to be honest. Doesn't seem like a good way to fail for sure.
What is that tiny electric screwdriver that you use?
It's called a WoW Stick and I love it! amzn.to/2ZHGL77
@@BusterBeagle3D thanks!
So the temp will be reading celsius ?
It depends on the setup of your PID. There is a setting in the COD 001 under the setting called UNIT. When UNIT=0 it's Celsius, UNIT=1 it's Fahrenheit. By default it's set to C I believe.
Do you deliver to UK or is there a link to buy from EUROPE
Hi. You can find the custom stainless steel parts on the Etsy store which does ship internationally. www.etsy.com/shop/BusterBeagle3D
That “fin” is a heat sink - which has a multiplicity of fins…
Just ordered your kit. I have a controller already. I also have a rather large standing drill press, and I'm going to investigate utilizing your plunger and heater block with the drill press as the pressure mechanism. Are you aware of others doing this? Is there a facebook group or anything?
Hello. There is a Buster Beagle 3D Facebook group but I have not seen someone do that yet. You would need to figure out how to mount the chamber in something on the drill press. The diameter of the part you need to mount is 42.5mm if that helps you out.
Hola donde puedo comprar y que la envíen a chile saludos.
www.busterbeagle3d.com Everything can be shipped worldwide!
Do you sell them
I sell the stainless steel chamber parts to make them but do not currently offer a complete machine.
Can you make me some molds for your machine?
As much as I would like to I really don't have the bandwidth to make molds for customers. I'm not really a pro at it either. I would suggest posting in the Buster Beagle 3D Facebook Group or even the small scale injection molding group and you can find someone willing to make molds. There are also many CNC groups out there where you could also find people to take that on.
I wish there was a way to mute the stupid repetitive music. That said, the project is very interesting and well thought out. I'll have to tune back in when I can deal with the distraction better.