This is probably the best tuition I've ever received, I've got countless images in my files where I got the halo sun. Gonna have to go back and re edit a ton of images now, thanks Mark, you make learning a joy.
I get your point for not selecting the sky, but using a linear gradient like that inevitably affects the mountains in the background. Have you ever considered selecting the sky and then intersecting it with a linear gradient? That way you still avoid having the same effect between the lower and higher part of the sky, but do not lose the already limited details of the mountain range. Nice video, as usual, btw...
As always, another great tutorial. I actually like something in between the first and older edit, and the new edit in this video. But what is great is hearing how you used the masks. Which I just tried on a few of my photos with what I think are nice results.
Great tips Mark. I really enjoy and appreciate your tutorials. I think though, and I not the only person to mention this, your wall clock needs a new battery! Thx again for great class! Tony
I've also noticed halos on my landscape images. In my photos this phenomenon usually occurs with a hue shift where the orange sunset breaks up and forms a yellow halo around the sun, or blue sky breaks up to cyan. And, as you memtioned, once you've seen it you cannot unsee it. I use Darktable's filmic rgb module to counter it. It simulates film and I get great results from it. No more unnatural looking skies and no more halos for me.
Been editing like that a while now, even entered an image into a camera club competition, the image received a rubbish review from the judge, he commented that the sun looked un-naturally defused and was too bright, he also said that the sun should have been cloned out, just no pleasing some judges,
Thank you for showing us your skills/methods etc. and showing us how we can change the outcome of the image. But as always, its down to the personal taste of the taker. Thanks for your videos, much appreciated.
Ok! I see what it is about! I have been doing sunrises/sets for years with the sun almost centered while on beaches mainly when on a driftwood beach, But what I do is bracketing 5 at +/- 2EV the main thing it does is it brightens the dark side of things like the driftwood or even over a marina of white boats I get white and not a bluish tint on the white, yes my A7RMV has a selection in the AWB for white and that does it. I started many years ago even before going Sony but my new, then, A7SM1 could do 5 at +/-2 or 3, It was the HDR era because cameras did not have the dynamic range as they do today. Now to explain you have 5 images to play with but a HDR program merges all images and you get brightness on the dark side of things instead of a silhouette but also you get a nice round red ball - well NOW I know that is not a good thing but the bracketing also works during the blue hour to not have silhouettes but stars very sharp. I will go back to the many images and try for I have all 5 to work with. As a note I just found my A7R5 will do 5 at +/- 2ev hand held and great without a sun in the sky, I have the A7RM2 still and found by forgetting my plate for my tripod that it, back in 2017, would do 3 at +/- 2EV hand held while others had sticks but the greatest thing I had more depth and color in a dimly lit cavern and caves. BUT You did open my eyes or squint some!!!!! Thank You also use a 12-24mm at 12mm for sunrise/sets. Again just info A real GEM of a lens is the Sony APS-C E 10-18mm (15-27mm in 35mm) but can be used at 12mm in full frame (little mark to know where 12mm is) but Sooo Small with treads for front filters, F4 and OSS was great on my A7SM1(no IBIS) for a walk around. It was great for Astro Milky Way's at f/4 you can get pin point stars before the 2017 12-24mm, it sells now for more than I paid, Just info for small lens in a bag if you want to go wider than 24mm. Oh! you have to remove the light shield to go up to the 18mm in full frame.
Since I wear glasses, oftentimes, while shooting a sun rise/set, I will take my glasses off and capture that image in my mind. I am not blind, just a -5.25, but enough that this blurs the sky, much like your final product demonstrated in this video. It is not always about sharpness!
I guess I would say to each their own. I prefer the first edit better. Myself being a hobbyist, I edit to my liking and its not necessarily the way it would be looking at it with the naked eye.
Nice video Mark. Timely as well as I am looking at a shot I took yesterday that had that halo which I thought looked a little too much (read: fake). As usual your videos help amateurs like myself to look a little less amateur.
Interesting comment about starting out everyone does this. Until recently one could not do the fine tuning with Lightroom that you show so we did what we could with what we had. Thanks for the tips now I have to go back over the years and fix my mistakes
Over time I've learned that global editing will mostly not provide the best results. Masking such a using a linear gradient for the sky are key methods for making one's images better.
I got it! I noticed what I miss/desire in your vids. You are really good at explaining things right up until you actually do something important, like when you decide just how far to bring down the sky mask. At that point you say something along the lines of "I think that looks pretty good." You stop explaining right at the moment I most want to have an explanation. Why does this look pretty good right about here? Why not a little more? Why not a little less? Can you express just what the criterion is that you are using? It might not be fully conscious, but can you make it so and relate your thought process to your audience? That would be so awesome if you could do this, at least for me. It would elevate your videos from very useful to truly enlightening. Thanks. Keep 'em coming.
Correction: in general, yes, when you say "just about here" or similar is usually a sign that there is more you could explain. But, there are points later in this video where you say something like that but it is clear to me what it is you are focusing on, what effect you are adjusting. This is the best processing video I have seen from you. I am trying hard to learn how to process photos, especially RAW photos. I am going to watch this one multiple time, I am sure. Very helpful. Very enlightening. Thanks!
LR classic, so your super informative videos are v useful. Thankyou! However I puzzle how you and so many other LR demonstrators have such super fast LR slider/masking responses even on laptop rather than desktop. I like so many others have tried everything and especially with masking get so frustrated.
Yes, you're probably right...the answer is always more gear to keep up with the newest software. Just as well I've not been tempted to follow down the 60/100mp cameras!
✅QUICK QUESTION: What program do you edit your photos in?
Lightroom
Lightroom.
LRc, PS with various plugins..Topaz, DXO, On1,Luminar. I also use TK9 panel with PS.
Lightroom Classic
Lrc
I still like the first edit more. Usually I focus on the Sun halos and try to fix them but, I like to see the clear shape and the rays.
This is probably the best tuition I've ever received, I've got countless images in my files where I got the halo sun. Gonna have to go back and re edit a ton of images now, thanks Mark, you make learning a joy.
Love to hear this - thank you!
I get your point for not selecting the sky, but using a linear gradient like that inevitably affects the mountains in the background. Have you ever considered selecting the sky and then intersecting it with a linear gradient? That way you still avoid having the same effect between the lower and higher part of the sky, but do not lose the already limited details of the mountain range. Nice video, as usual, btw...
Best of both worlds :). Mask intersections are super powerful!
As always, another great tutorial. I actually like something in between the first and older edit, and the new edit in this video. But what is great is hearing how you used the masks. Which I just tried on a few of my photos with what I think are nice results.
Great tips Mark. I really enjoy and appreciate your tutorials. I think though, and I not the only person to mention this, your wall clock needs a new battery!
Thx again for great class!
Tony
Thanks for the tips
I've also noticed halos on my landscape images. In my photos this phenomenon usually occurs with a hue shift where the orange sunset breaks up and forms a yellow halo around the sun, or blue sky breaks up to cyan. And, as you memtioned, once you've seen it you cannot unsee it. I use Darktable's filmic rgb module to counter it. It simulates film and I get great results from it. No more unnatural looking skies and no more halos for me.
Been editing like that a while now, even entered an image into a camera club competition, the image received a rubbish review from the judge, he commented that the sun looked un-naturally defused and was too bright, he also said that the sun should have been cloned out, just no pleasing some judges,
Thank you for showing us your skills/methods etc. and showing us how we can change the outcome of the image. But as always, its down to the personal taste of the taker. Thanks for your videos, much appreciated.
Glad to do it Andy!
Hey Mark,
Thanks a lot for all the great lessons. I always learn something new and useful from you.
Game changer! Thanks, Mark!
Happy to hear!
Ok! I see what it is about! I have been doing sunrises/sets for years with the sun almost centered while on beaches mainly when on a driftwood beach, But what I do is bracketing 5 at +/- 2EV the main thing it does is it brightens the dark side of things like the driftwood or even over a marina of white boats I get white and not a bluish tint on the white, yes my A7RMV has a selection in the AWB for white and that does it. I started many years ago even before going Sony but my new, then, A7SM1 could do 5 at +/-2 or 3, It was the HDR era because cameras did not have the dynamic range as they do today. Now to explain you have 5 images to play with but a HDR program merges all images and you get brightness on the dark side of things instead of a silhouette but also you get a nice round red ball - well NOW I know that is not a good thing but the bracketing also works during the blue hour to not have silhouettes but stars very sharp. I will go back to the many images and try for I have all 5 to work with. As a note I just found my A7R5 will do 5 at +/- 2ev hand held and great without a sun in the sky, I have the A7RM2 still and found by forgetting my plate for my tripod that it, back in 2017, would do 3 at +/- 2EV hand held while others had sticks but the greatest thing I had more depth and color in a dimly lit cavern and caves. BUT You did open my eyes or squint some!!!!! Thank You also use a 12-24mm at 12mm for sunrise/sets. Again just info A real GEM of a lens is the Sony APS-C E 10-18mm (15-27mm in 35mm) but can be used at 12mm in full frame (little mark to know where 12mm is) but Sooo Small with treads for front filters, F4 and OSS was great on my A7SM1(no IBIS) for a walk around. It was great for Astro Milky Way's at f/4 you can get pin point stars before the 2017 12-24mm, it sells now for more than I paid, Just info for small lens in a bag if you want to go wider than 24mm. Oh! you have to remove the light shield to go up to the 18mm in full frame.
Masterclass technique.
Since I wear glasses, oftentimes, while shooting a sun rise/set, I will take my glasses off and capture that image in my mind. I am not blind, just a -5.25, but enough that this blurs the sky, much like your final product demonstrated in this video. It is not always about sharpness!
Nice video Mark, thnx!
Your clock needs a fresh AA! 😊
More magic! 👍🥂
Outstanding presentation… Very worthwhile viewing👍👍
Thanks a million!
Very useful education
The Walkman and VHS tape though!!! NICE...!! lol
🤣🤣
I guess I would say to each their own. I prefer the first edit better. Myself being a hobbyist, I edit to my liking and its not necessarily the way it would be looking at it with the naked eye.
I do not see this when I look at the sun. In Oklahoma, it's hazy, so the circular sun is clearly visible to the naked eye.
Nice video Mark. Timely as well as I am looking at a shot I took yesterday that had that halo which I thought looked a little too much (read: fake). As usual your videos help amateurs like myself to look a little less amateur.
Editing, something must be wrong with me, I like the before, but still, well done.
Interesting comment about starting out everyone does this. Until recently one could not do the fine tuning with Lightroom that you show so we did what we could with what we had. Thanks for the tips now I have to go back over the years and fix my mistakes
Glad it was helpful!
Over time I've learned that global editing will mostly not provide the best results. Masking such a using a linear gradient for the sky are key methods for making one's images better.
Looking much more professional
Great advice as always! Thanks Mark!
Glad it was helpful!
Great video and very informative.
Glad you enjoyed it!
One of the best thing this technique does is to mitigate "color banding" in bright areas where the dynamic range is being pushed to its limits.
LRc, PS with various plugins..Topaz, DXO, On1,Luminar. I also use TK9 panel with PS.
Ooooh, stoked to try this out. Thanks for the video!
Hope you enjoy it!
That's very helpful, thank you!
My pleasure!
Smashing love that tip on sun editing...I shall use that. Thanks
Great to hear you enjoyed it!
Grazie per il tutorial!!!Video interessante è spiegato molto bene...Complimenti!!!
Thank you!
Hi Mark, I agree with the impact on the sun ... much better, but I do miss some of the detail in the sky the sun ... :-) Kind regards, Guy.
Thanks Guy!
THank you!! I needed this tip
Glad it was helpful!
I got it! I noticed what I miss/desire in your vids. You are really good at explaining things right up until you actually do something important, like when you decide just how far to bring down the sky mask. At that point you say something along the lines of "I think that looks pretty good." You stop explaining right at the moment I most want to have an explanation. Why does this look pretty good right about here? Why not a little more? Why not a little less? Can you express just what the criterion is that you are using? It might not be fully conscious, but can you make it so and relate your thought process to your audience? That would be so awesome if you could do this, at least for me. It would elevate your videos from very useful to truly enlightening. Thanks. Keep 'em coming.
Correction: in general, yes, when you say "just about here" or similar is usually a sign that there is more you could explain. But, there are points later in this video where you say something like that but it is clear to me what it is you are focusing on, what effect you are adjusting. This is the best processing video I have seen from you. I am trying hard to learn how to process photos, especially RAW photos. I am going to watch this one multiple time, I am sure. Very helpful. Very enlightening. Thanks!
Thank you, @MarkDenneyPhoto
Great video!
Thanks!
Good Stuff !!😁
Thanks 😁
Wow huge difference did you shot this using exposure bracketing? Mahalo
No this was a single exposure
@@MarkDenneyPhoto thanks love your videos great work 🙏🏼
ACR+CAPTURE 1
LR classic, so your super informative videos are v useful. Thankyou! However I puzzle how you and so many other LR demonstrators have such super fast LR slider/masking responses even on laptop rather than desktop. I like so many others have tried everything and especially with masking get so frustrated.
It could be hardware related. The new MacBook Pros with the M series processors combined with sufficient memory are quite snappy.
Yes, you're probably right...the answer is always more gear to keep up with the newest software. Just as well I've not been tempted to follow down the 60/100mp cameras!
Be careful in your search for perfection, you might not like it when you find it. - Salvador Dali
If the sky is not flat with a mountainous or forest background
Lol. hveravellir? (Iceland)
Kind of like an Orton effect, isn't it?
Yes similoar
Lrc
Maybe use something other that the 'industry standard' Lightroom?