Some quick notes and reminders of what to look for during the KTM LC8 Valve adjustment. Follow us on Instagram @HOTRDD__Machines Subscribe and like for more cool tips and tricks
A couple notes that I didn't cover in my short video. I did the water pump upgrade / flush and oil change at the same time. So I already had 1/2 the bike apart. 1) To tear everything apart I just followed the KTM 950 Hall of Wisdom documents. 2) As I took each piece apart I put the misc. hardware in a ziploc bag and tape it to the part. Makes it handy going back together. 3) When I do this again I'll just do a radiator flush and oil change at the same time. Getting the oil tank and radiator out of the way sure makes life much easier. 4) Front and rear lobes face different direction when at TDC. From the left side of the bike. (Clutch side) Rear cylinder lobes @ TDC - Face in towards each other. And left (intake) rear lobe has the X that you align with the edge of the cylinder. Front cylinder lobes @ TDC - Face away from each other. And left (exhaust) front lobe has a circle that you align with the edge of the cylinder.
+Scoty ABML don't forget to disassemble each nut one at a time and place assembly lube on the threads and go to 25 nm on each one then final torque so you get the right spec and don't disturb the head gaskets
Scoty ABML about to do this tomorrow as I'm getting abit of oil residue at the head gasket. manual says torque to 25 in first stage and then to 43 in second stage. hope it stops the weaping
I did mine once. I really think the next time it needs to be done I'm going to sell the bike. What a pain in the ###! Worst part is the damn gas tanks.
Useful video. Thanks. Do you happen to know how to take the spark plug shaft out? there is a bolt I need to remove to access the shim but the shaft is on its way.
On the rear cylinder (or front with dots) do you line up the x on the tooth on both intake and exhaust cams or just the intake? And if just the intake, how do you know where to put the exhaust?
I realize this is very, very late. But the orange tool is to lock the bottom half of the engine at TDC "Top Dead Center" while you remove the cams and replace the chain.
@@hotrod-machines Hey, even though it's 8 years old that video was really helpful and well done to get a feeling of what doing a service on this bike is like. Do you still ride the 950 by any chance?
@@starstencahl8985 Nope sold the bike years ago because it wasn't getting ridden enough. 950S is still one of my favorite bikes. Rode it for several years and still sold it for what I bought it for.
A couple notes that I didn't cover in my short video. I did the water pump upgrade / flush and oil change at the same time. So I already had 1/2 the bike apart.
1) To tear everything apart I just followed the KTM 950 Hall of Wisdom documents.
2) As I took each piece apart I put the misc. hardware in a ziploc bag and tape it to the part. Makes it handy going back together.
3) When I do this again I'll just do a radiator flush and oil change at the same time. Getting the oil tank and radiator out of the way sure makes life much easier.
4) Front and rear lobes face different direction when at TDC.
From the left side of the bike. (Clutch side)
Rear cylinder lobes @ TDC - Face in towards each other. And left (intake) rear lobe has the X that you align with the edge of the cylinder.
Front cylinder lobes @ TDC - Face away from each other. And left (exhaust) front lobe has a circle that you align with the edge of the cylinder.
Very informative video. Helped a lot. Thank you!
Good vid, thanks for the tip regarding the torque at 90 degrees.
Thanks for doing this for us!
Thanks for posting, very helpful :-)
That torque trick is awesome many thanks!
yeah, good one...my torque wrench doesn't quite mate with the KTM bottle opener which also could work but the 13 to 14mm wrench works awesome
+Scoty ABML don't forget to disassemble each nut one at a time and place assembly lube on the threads and go to 25 nm on each one then final torque so you get the right spec and don't disturb the head gaskets
+Scoty ABML :) cheers
Scoty ABML about to do this tomorrow as I'm getting abit of oil residue at the head gasket. manual says torque to 25 in first stage and then to 43 in second stage. hope it stops the weaping
I did mine once. I really think the next time it needs to be done I'm going to sell the bike. What a pain in the ###! Worst part is the damn gas tanks.
Useful video. Thanks. Do you happen to know how to take the spark plug shaft out? there is a bolt I need to remove to access the shim but the shaft is on its way.
On the rear cylinder (or front with dots) do you line up the x on the tooth on both intake and exhaust cams or just the intake? And if just the intake, how do you know where to put the exhaust?
whats the need for the little orange tool when the TDC markings are on the gears?
I realize this is very, very late. But the orange tool is to lock the bottom half of the engine at TDC "Top Dead Center" while you remove the cams and replace the chain.
@@hotrod-machines Hey, even though it's 8 years old that video was really helpful and well done to get a feeling of what doing a service on this bike is like. Do you still ride the 950 by any chance?
@@starstencahl8985 Nope sold the bike years ago because it wasn't getting ridden enough. 950S is still one of my favorite bikes. Rode it for several years and still sold it for what I bought it for.
Is it necessary to retorque the head nuts?
No its not required. But its good practice.