Also, you are completely correct on your account of Gingery's motives / philosophy. At the time when he made the series, buying an equivalent lathe would be quite expensive. When i started the project, even the Chinese lathes were of considerable expense to me, which was why I thought this would be a good alternative route to take. I'd also learn how to build the machine, fix and upgrade it, etc... All skills you wouldn't have if you were new to machining and buying an off the shelf lathe.
I'd like to make Gingery's 4-jaw independent chuck, and will most likely do it when I have a chance. Up to this point I have build the Gingery 2-jaw chuck, which seems to do acceptable work with the new permanent spindle. The 2-jaw is a faceplate accessory, and a bit of a pain to mount work on center each time ( unless using stock of the same diameter ). I would really like to adapt the typical 7x10 / 7x12 import 3-jaw chuck to my lathe initially, and should be as easy as making the backplate.
Dear Sir, the machine was bolted to the table and my method of finding the center of the round stock was from the South Bend - How To Run A Lathe book which I believe is still completely valid. Regards.
I definitely feel that the spindle I produced for the lathe is completely boss, considering what I started out with, and that I pulled it off on the first attempt - I even got the MT1 taper in the nose accurate on this machine. Gingery definitely shows that you can create an accurate machine tool starting out with almost nothing. People seem to miss the point and suggest that I machine everything out of steel, or cast it in iron, but I'm working within the limitations of a home shop and budget.
Thanks! The table I had the lathe on was a bit wobbly, and the dumbbells basically made it a bit more stable. I have it on a much nicer table now, so no need for them anymore.
Thanks for the comment. I used a grade B granite surface plate to scrape the back ways, and then the carriage was set for a snug fit and used to scrape the front ways - in that sense the front ways should end up being with reference to the back ways. Checkout the Gingery series of machine shop from scap metal books, most if not all of the techniques I used were from those books ( lathe and mill books ): Cheers, Morgan
I wish, I do have the book and actually wish I had purchased that before building the lathe as there are many upgrades / tips that could have been applied to the lathe build. My wife ended up buying me a small grizzy mini mill toward the end of my build, and that has worked out for the most part so I don't really have an immediate desire to build the Gingery Milling Machine at this point. Maybe the shaper :)
Thanks for the reply norton, however the spindle has been accurate enough for the work I'm doing, and being that the lathe itself is home built per the Gingery plans, Overall the spindle diameter is accurate enough to fit very well in my headstock bearings, and has very little runout as tested on my dial test indicator - possibly not as good as a purchased machine, but I have not used one of those so I have no comparison there... Anyways, I've done good work on the lathe so far.
I'd like to make all the gingery accessories from book #6, but at this point the steady rest is of a lower priority, as I don't think I'll be machining anything as long as the spindle for a while. It would definitely be beneficial if I had to turn down something this long again. I would really like to add a stepper motor to drive the leadscrew for threading, and then possibly do a digital version of the dividing head to cut gears on my mill :)
Very nice work Sir! One trick an old machinist taught me, while boring, if you press down on the boring bar with something (an open wrench) you eliminate much chatter.
Despite earlier comments. and being British, I still use the old imperial system when I need to - I can visualize feet and inches much better, but I also use metrics as well. Your machine seems to perform very well!
The spindle in this video was made from 1" CRS round stock ( 1018 ). You could use whatever material you want, though the lathe had a temporary spindle made from 1018 and it worked fine, so I opted to use the same material - cheaper and seemed to work fine. If I have problems I'll turn down a new spindle with a better material.
Hopefully when the lathe is done I'll get to working on other projects I wanted the machine for in the first place. I'll continue posting videos of my projects, etc... so if interested stay tuned :)
Well only so much can be determined from the video, I actually spent a considerable amount of time from start to finish correcting issues in the lathe to be able to produce the final ( fairly accurate ) spindle at the end of the video. Anyways, I still have a lot of work to do figuring out how to properly grind down a tool bit, but regardless the spindle that was created does accurate enough work for what I'm doing - I know simply because I have produced some good working parts with it...
I am gearing up to build a vertical milling machine along the lines of Gingery's concepts. I do not have room for a large machine and the decent benchtop machines are in the 2,500 to 3,000 dollar range even now. They are still not really what I need for making parts for my shop that is specializing in pre WWI race cars and 100% replica exotics such as the Bugatti T34 and the Morgan Aero that I am starting with.
impressive m/c comsidering.. regaeding a chinese lathe; my first china lathe CRAFTEX B2227L made worse cuts out of the box than your homebuilt. it cost me $1300cdn including shipping and taxes; not to mention another nearly 6 months time resolving the major functional deficiencies. my question is what did you use as reference to scraped the ways for this m/c? try a follow rest, it may help reduce the chatter. again, nice m/c considering the difficulties in building from scratch..
Morgan, you are doing a great job and look to be having fun doing it. I would like to give you a name of a man that does a great deal of casting and maybe you could pick up a few pointers from him. His name on youtube is myfordboy. I have learned a lot from him and many others on here including you. Keep up the great work!
You have tool chattering on account of a flimsy setup and too much speed. I can hear the tool is not ground properly (clearance angles) and is rubbing. Excessive tool overhang is also causing chatter. The net result will be a mediocre (useless) spindle that will not be able to do good work -- you will need to make a new spindle to correct your problem.
I'd imagine most of the vibrations are from the camera mount, but regardless the lathe does the work I need it to do which is what I wanted out of the build ... not sure shame has anything to do with it...
Also, you are completely correct on your account of Gingery's motives / philosophy. At the time when he made the series, buying an equivalent lathe would be quite expensive. When i started the project, even the Chinese lathes were of considerable expense to me, which was why I thought this would be a good alternative route to take. I'd also learn how to build the machine, fix and upgrade it, etc... All skills you wouldn't have if you were new to machining and buying an off the shelf lathe.
I'd like to make Gingery's 4-jaw independent chuck, and will most likely do it when I have a chance. Up to this point I have build the Gingery 2-jaw chuck, which seems to do acceptable work with the new permanent spindle. The 2-jaw is a faceplate accessory, and a bit of a pain to mount work on center each time ( unless using stock of the same diameter ). I would really like to adapt the typical 7x10 / 7x12 import 3-jaw chuck to my lathe initially, and should be as easy as making the backplate.
Dear Sir, the machine was bolted to the table and my method of finding the center of the round stock was from the South Bend - How To Run A Lathe book which I believe is still completely valid. Regards.
I definitely feel that the spindle I produced for the lathe is completely boss, considering what I started out with, and that I pulled it off on the first attempt - I even got the MT1 taper in the nose accurate on this machine. Gingery definitely shows that you can create an accurate machine tool starting out with almost nothing. People seem to miss the point and suggest that I machine everything out of steel, or cast it in iron, but I'm working within the limitations of a home shop and budget.
Thanks! The table I had the lathe on was a bit wobbly, and the dumbbells basically made it a bit more stable. I have it on a much nicer table now, so no need for them anymore.
Thanks for the comment. I used a grade B granite surface plate to scrape the back ways, and then the carriage was set for a snug fit and used to scrape the front ways - in that sense the front ways should end up being with reference to the back ways.
Checkout the Gingery series of machine shop from scap metal books, most if not all of the techniques I used were from those books ( lathe and mill books ):
Cheers,
Morgan
I wish, I do have the book and actually wish I had purchased that before building the lathe as there are many upgrades / tips that could have been applied to the lathe build. My wife ended up buying me a small grizzy mini mill toward the end of my build, and that has worked out for the most part so I don't really have an immediate desire to build the Gingery Milling Machine at this point. Maybe the shaper :)
Thanks for the reply norton, however the spindle has been accurate enough for the work I'm doing, and being that the lathe itself is home built per the Gingery plans, Overall the spindle diameter is accurate enough to fit very well in my headstock bearings, and has very little runout as tested on my dial test indicator - possibly not as good as a purchased machine, but I have not used one of those so I have no comparison there... Anyways, I've done good work on the lathe so far.
I'd like to make all the gingery accessories from book #6, but at this point the steady rest is of a lower priority, as I don't think I'll be machining anything as long as the spindle for a while. It would definitely be beneficial if I had to turn down something this long again. I would really like to add a stepper motor to drive the leadscrew for threading, and then possibly do a digital version of the dividing head to cut gears on my mill :)
Morgan,
Very well done! The procedure is very clear and the quality of the work superb.
thanks,
Rick Sparber
Very nice work Sir! One trick an old machinist taught me, while boring, if you press down on the boring bar with something (an open wrench) you eliminate much chatter.
Despite earlier comments. and being British, I still use the old imperial system when I need to - I can visualize feet and inches much better, but I also use metrics as well. Your machine seems to perform very well!
The spindle in this video was made from 1" CRS round stock ( 1018 ). You could use whatever material you want, though the lathe had a temporary spindle made from 1018 and it worked fine, so I opted to use the same material - cheaper and seemed to work fine. If I have problems I'll turn down a new spindle with a better material.
Hopefully when the lathe is done I'll get to working on other projects I wanted the machine for in the first place. I'll continue posting videos of my projects, etc... so if interested stay tuned :)
Good job Morgan! If you lived near Shawnee Ok. I would like to visit. I just finished Gingerys sheet metal brake. Way to go man!
Well only so much can be determined from the video, I actually spent a considerable amount of time from start to finish correcting issues in the lathe to be able to produce the final ( fairly accurate ) spindle at the end of the video. Anyways, I still have a lot of work to do figuring out how to properly grind down a tool bit, but regardless the spindle that was created does accurate enough work for what I'm doing - I know simply because I have produced some good working parts with it...
Wow. If that lathe can get that smooth a finish on CRS, that's impressive...
What will you do when you already do your machinery?
Is there any chance you are going to do a similar series for the gingery milling machine?
very nice work...and video quality ...thanks for sharing this...
I am gearing up to build a vertical milling machine along the lines of Gingery's concepts. I do not have room for a large machine and the decent benchtop machines are in the 2,500 to 3,000 dollar range even now. They are still not really what I need for making parts for my shop that is specializing in pre WWI race cars and 100% replica exotics such as the Bugatti T34 and the Morgan Aero that I am starting with.
Great job. Do you have the plans of the lathe?I am very interesting.
what was the material for the spindle shaft? I'm assuming drill rod.
impressive m/c comsidering.. regaeding a chinese lathe; my first china lathe CRAFTEX B2227L made worse cuts out of the box than your homebuilt. it cost me $1300cdn including shipping and taxes; not to mention another nearly 6 months time resolving the major functional deficiencies. my question is what did you use as reference to scraped the ways for this m/c? try a follow rest, it may help reduce the chatter. again, nice m/c considering the difficulties in building from scratch..
Nice work! Sorry if this has been asked more than once, what purpose do the dumbbells serve?
Why didn't use use the lathe to bore the centre using a spot drill
Are you going to make a steady rest?
I love Sharpies i use them all the time.
Morgan, you are doing a great job and look to be having fun doing it. I would like to give you a name of a man that does a great deal of casting and maybe you could pick up a few pointers from him. His name on youtube is myfordboy. I have learned a lot from him and many others on here including you. Keep up the great work!
it will probably happen when it is cheaper to buy metric machine screws and bolts at the hardware store, for now I will stick to inches :)
Nice job
lefthand?
Is the smoke from the hot oil dangerous?
nah, it has the same poisoning properties than regular engine oil
Cigarettes are probably worse than it
o seu sistema de medição é POLEGADAS...?......Morgan
My wife and daughters used to call me the crazy professor because I'm always out in my workshop making something.
great job
se fazer isso com o paquímetro na minha empresa..esta despedido na hora...rsrsrsrsr
Haha, yes I get that too - my wife calls me the mad scientist at times working in my lair in the basement :)
Great info
EL PRIEMER ERROR QUE LE OBSERBO A ESTE MECANICO ES MARCAR EL CENTRO CON EL CALIBRADOR . PARA ESO ESTA LA ESCUADRA DE CENTROS .
Here, in Brazil, we have lathe operator that gets to be our president, but, unfortunately he didn't was so good ...
I love to cut metal! I love to cut metal! I love to cut metal!
dear sir, please bolt your machine to whatever it is sat on, and buy a centrefinder!!
SUPER.....
You have tool chattering on account of a flimsy setup and too much speed. I can hear the tool is not ground properly (clearance angles) and is rubbing. Excessive tool overhang is also causing chatter. The net result will be a mediocre (useless) spindle that will not be able to do good work -- you will need to make a new spindle to correct your problem.
wood lathe vibrations. you dont have any shame ?????
I'd imagine most of the vibrations are from the camera mount, but regardless the lathe does the work I need it to do which is what I wanted out of the build ... not sure shame has anything to do with it...