Your tutorials for years now have been saving me. Today your "move" at 15:03 saved me again! I was wracking my brain over how I messed up both of my xt m8000 derailleurs. I thought I'd used wrong grease or something. Nope... It was the move to rotate the whole jockey wheel housing that I'd missed!!
Great video, I service my rear derailleurs every year to this level, for the last 25 years, people don't realise Shimano make Thier derailleurs serviceable, I serviced my 1992 original xtr rear derailleur every year it's still working fine, my only advise is that the Shimano clutch grease is specifically made, most greases, in my experience,they don't work properly, shimanos own grease does, it's called Shimano internal hub grease, comes in a tube, it doesn't feel like normal grease under your fingers, it's specialist grease, it's the best option, in my experience
the slotted table is KILLING ME! HAHA All those tiny parts just teetering on the edge, sometimes hanging in between the slats. Someone get this man a workbench! All in all, great step-by-step detail! Thanks for the walkthrough!
Thank you. I watch all of your videos. I took your advice, instead of buying a cheap road bike that I would have to upgrade later I found a used 2017 cannondale optimo disc with mavic wheels, 105 components, ultegra rear mech, and 11-34 cassette. This bike is fantastic, just like you said it would be. Please keep these videos coming.
Thanks a lot for this super nice walk-through! I'm not really a tinkerer and was very hesitant to dismantle my XT derailleur, but after watching your video, I wanted to try! Managed to fix a very sticky clutch which was preventing the system to keep tension on my chain - so proud it works like a charm now! At the workshop they were going to replace the whole thing, so this video surely saved my more than 100 EUR!
Was out for a ride today, the derailleur didn't hold tension on my chain, none! Took it apart as instructed here for service... I'm not sure what the actual problem was, but it's fixed! You saved me from buying a new one! My hat is off to you :) Edit: Subscribed ;)
First off thank you for your very informative videos! I regularly use them to service my bikes. I came to this video because I did the same thing where my chain was on the bottom of the inner cage and rubbed groves. I'll be replacing it today. I appreciate your videos so much!
Thanks for this video. I always thought it was my clutch mechanism that was screwing up, it turns out it was the "axel" as you call it. Mine was completely seized up with the bushing it sits in. I had to carefully ease it out by BASHING-THE-CRAP-OUT-OF-IT with a hammer. Once out I spent a good 10 minutes cleaning it and the bushing to get them nice and shiny again. My internal spring looked like it had been salvaged from the Titanic, but after a good scrubbing, it looks almost brand new. It's now running extra smooth. Thanks again
If you're getting grit inside the bearing seals they're not sealing properly. Better to replace the bearings with new, improved ones than have to strip and clean out the grease from your sealed bearings (which you should never have to do).. You should always re-pack the bearings with grease, not oil as that is what they were designed to run in. Oil is too thin and will run out of the bearings past the seals leaving the bearings dry and they will wear out faster, so, use grease!
Thx a million! I managed to follow all your steps, except the clutch cannot be removed from the axle. The steel band around it was easy to take off, but the clutch would not move. This is the first time I checked the mechanism after 10,000 km.
Great over hall. Very well done with easy to follow instructions. 5 stars for complete procedures explained. Hope to see other moving parts like front and rear suspension linkage as well.
Great video. I like the way you get in nice and close with the camera and hold things steady. So many video makers wave things about and don't let the auto focus catch up. One suggested improvement, though, as the parts are often black why not use coloured gloves to help make the parts stand out. I love the clear and calm narration of all your videos.
Soooooo cool. Thank you so much. It is no rocket science, but I (and many others) just need someone explain and show the Little Tricks. I am looking forward to seeing more maintainable videos from you. Maybe changing the center bearing of the crank shaft or/and pedals (Sudpin 3 S-Pro). I am biking under really muddy conditions here in my area. You really HELPED A LOT. thanks so much. PS Grease in the open(ed) bearing (the 2 pulleys; not[!!!] freewheel-bearing) the is much better than oil. Use a PTFE grease, which keeps the moisture out. This will enlarge lifetime of the bearing oil will be moved away by overlooking and than you only have steel on steel dry running, grease will „dropped“ in the ball race by gravity and temperature).
and yes it is important what type of grease you're using. You don't wanna use anti-seize on the bearings, ideally you should use "fast" grease, basicaly lower density grease, so it doesn't slow the bearings down
Bro, I recommend that you lipeis the parts with diesel and leave them better, it does not damage them and gives them many properties both in paltics and metals.
I remove my chain every 2 to 3 days to clean it. I only do 20 miles a day, but I was knocking chains out within a few months. My bike shop told me to remove it and clean it everyday. I use a quick link, but I found out recently that Shimano ones you can only use once, and KMC 3 x. How do you clean your chain if you use a pin? You wouldn't want to take that out every few days. Is the Park Tool chain cleaner device good enough? I read that it doesn't really clean inside the chain. Another good video, some of the best bike ones on RUclips.
You can use Connex links or Connex chains by Wippermann that you can remove it all you want, or degrease it all and use a wax base lubricant such as Squirt if you don't want to clean thourghly every day (just wiping the chain after a ride is enough).
@@OjStudios KMC say don't remove the chain, and just clean it using a cloth, then regrease. The chain has wax put on it before assembly, and using chemicals will remove this wax.
I have the park tool cyclone scrubber used with original WD-40 as cleaner degreaser. It works very well and chains come out much cleaner than shaking the chain in a bottle with cleaner, using a tooth brush and rags. While it's hard to know what the inner rollers and pins look like, I can say that the chain scrubber yields a chain that's very clean on the outside meaning addition of new lube won't carry dirt from outside into the rollers and pins. Also, manipulating the links after scrubbing, I don't detect any gritty feeling which infers a decent clean internally. I tilt the scrubber slightly through multiple angles as the chain runs through. This causes the bristles to contact chain at different angles and pressures and results in a well cleaned chain. I use Rock and Roll lube in the drier late spring thru November riding season and TriFlow in winter: so quality, appropriate lube for conditions is key as well. Chain scrubber works great, easy to use, both aspects that cause me to clean my drivetrain more often and better than I would without it. A good portion of the WD-40 can be reused since when it's left to sit, the particulates settle out nearly completely. The proof I'd say is that my Shimano 11s chains have yet to show wear of 0.5% based on a Park Tool CC-4 chain wear indicator despite a full year of daily MTB riding in all conditions. Recommend the chain scrubber for sure.
So useful video, thank you, but how you put in place the clip with just one finger is a mystery, i've been trying for hours now, losing it again and again, pretty sure I'll never get it right ;)
at 12:28 that part is damn sticky in mine as I have not clean it since I bought it 5 years ago. There is lots of resistance at that pivot. I just took it apart hours ago and wash it and regrease it. Oh my, the shifting improved especially at the smaller cog where the spring tension becomes weaker. Also at13:38, the spring is hooked on the hole of the plate. My older XT had two holes which I forgot which to use. In the end, I choose the hole which is giving me more spring tension.
Yeah its important on what grease you use on top of the clutch plate. @ 12:36 I tired lots and they all failed to work well. Best grease is the Shimano internal hub grease which is recommended. Also make sure to really cake the grease on booth parts.
At the end there you mentioned that your bracket should have no resistance however before opening up mine there was some spring tension and when I unscrewed it a spring fell out. Just looking for clarification if the spring is or isn’t needed
You wouldn’t figure how the spring jumped out off its place when I loosed the axle. I was very lucky because while flying it didn’t crash my tv neither my face. When I picked it from floor I noticed it looked expanded and bent. I’d like to share a picture.
Hi, love your tutorial. Help me a lot. Now I know more about my bike. By any chance, you can make a video, how to repair, service Shimano SLX M7000 & XT M8000 - GS 11 Speed shifter trigger. TQ
May I ask you if it is normal to have a little lateral movement in the derailleur cage (Shimano Ultegra r8000)? (The bike has 21.000 km. So far I changed 3 o 4 chains but never the cassette and the crowns). In any case, the shifting is perfect.
you also could mension where it would be good to use a bit of blue thread lock, in my opinion especialy on the pulleys threads, being careful not to use too much.
Hello! I have a shimano xt derailleur, which unfortunately I damaged yesterday. I hit it on a rock, but strangely, only the clutch was damaged. the cover cracked, I saw that it can be replaced. instead, a piece of the body of the clutch, which is actually attached to the derailleur, with rivets, broke. I see that you did not disassemble this part of the clutch in the tutorial either. the question is if this part of the clutch can be changed, because it broke right where the cover screw goes in or do I have to buy a new derailleur? I bought this one last year.... 🙄😥😞 thank you for your answer !
@@cannondany can you maybe do another video about best bikes for affordable prices in range of trails like 27,5 hardtails with plus size tyre clearences.
Hi thanks for the comprehensive video, I have this derailleur, the shifting is perfect but i have noticed that the chain rubs slightly on the side of the metal frame that holds the jockey wheels. In fact it seems to be a bit loose in that it can be moved from side to side when looking at the back of the bike. When I try to back pedal on the smallest cassette cog the chain jumps off and moves to bigger cogs on the cassette. Anyone any idea what or how to fix this, at times i can hear / feel the chain rubbing, many thanks. (not sure i have the confidence to take the whole thing in bits so just trying to fix my problem :-) ).
My Pulleys didn't have arrows but those three dots in the middle. So these dots should be visible from the outer side? I build them in to the inner side. Have a M8130 Linkglide derailleur that I cleaned today but i don't know how they were in there because of too much dirt. My old Pulleys are worn out, the chain jumps off the T-Pulley i ordered new ones to change them asap.
@@Prodiod actually i realize an article ,m8000 is on;y for 46 bro… yes you can but it my fck up your rd hanger by using 51T but if you think it works we;; good luck then
Disassembled RD-M5120... Its terrible... maybe its only mine but the part which should be lightly greased, was covered in grease, and spring with everything around rusted, and spring is bent... Its worth 20 eur today, not sure if it worth to buy a spring separately
hey. i have a problem with my front gear shifter (shimano xt m8000). it jams when i try to downshift with my index finger. i can only downshift with my thumb. maybe you can give me an advice? Thanks! :)
Please please can you help me. This looks like the setup I need but can’t find the information anywhere for the life of me. Is the a 10 speed 11-46 cassette with a 34t chainring using the mx8000 Deore rear mech. A reply would be very much appreciated. Thank you
Hi everybody and thanks SickBiker for your excellent advice... BUT... @8:45 when you take out the axel how do you stop the nut on the back of the axel from turning? When I undo mine with the 4mm allen key it just turns round and round, and so does the silver part on the other end. I can't get at the spring without taking it off. Any help or advice much appreciated!
I only change the chain, when it shows 0,5 on the chain measuring tool (for the lighter, titanium / alloy cassette) and 0,75 for the steel / alloy cassette.
Love you Bro! #LoveFromInda The what is the cost of your whole Drivetrain?? Is it possible to replace a old freewheel wheel by a new freehub wheel of same size?
In order to switch from the freewheel to the freehub, you need to replace the hub. If you don't lace the spokes yourself, it might be cheaper to buy a complete new wheel.
@@cannondany Chain is above the metal thing and indexing is perfect,how many links on the chain there should be on 2x11 SLX drivetrain/cassette and XT mech?
Your tutorials for years now have been saving me. Today your "move" at 15:03 saved me again! I was wracking my brain over how I messed up both of my xt m8000 derailleurs. I thought I'd used wrong grease or something. Nope... It was the move to rotate the whole jockey wheel housing that I'd missed!!
Great video, I service my rear derailleurs every year to this level, for the last 25 years, people don't realise Shimano make Thier derailleurs serviceable, I serviced my 1992 original xtr rear derailleur every year it's still working fine, my only advise is that the Shimano clutch grease is specifically made, most greases, in my experience,they don't work properly, shimanos own grease does, it's called Shimano internal hub grease, comes in a tube, it doesn't feel like normal grease under your fingers, it's specialist grease, it's the best option, in my experience
the slotted table is KILLING ME! HAHA All those tiny parts just teetering on the edge, sometimes hanging in between the slats. Someone get this man a workbench! All in all, great step-by-step detail! Thanks for the walkthrough!
Great video - thank you. However, the gaps in your table really stressed me out 😊
Andy Brown I was going to make this exact comment. It was hard to watch the little parts go on there.
I have also just spent 20 minutes worrying about all the parts falling through the gaps 😂
replace table with porch and that is my life. All the bike parts fall through the slats. All!!!
its called profesional table
Same here...
I had no idea there were so many parts inside....amazing !
Those gaps on your table gives me anxiety the whole time. Trying my best enough to watch your tutorial to the end. Again thank you for the knowledge!
🤣 me too
Thank you. I watch all of your videos. I took your advice, instead of buying a cheap road bike that I would have to upgrade later I found a used 2017 cannondale optimo disc with mavic wheels, 105 components, ultegra rear mech, and 11-34 cassette. This bike is fantastic, just like you said it would be. Please keep these videos coming.
I am happy for you Bill!
Thanks a lot for this super nice walk-through! I'm not really a tinkerer and was very hesitant to dismantle my XT derailleur, but after watching your video, I wanted to try! Managed to fix a very sticky clutch which was preventing the system to keep tension on my chain - so proud it works like a charm now! At the workshop they were going to replace the whole thing, so this video surely saved my more than 100 EUR!
Was out for a ride today, the derailleur didn't hold tension on my chain, none! Took it apart as instructed here for service... I'm not sure what the actual problem was, but it's fixed! You saved me from buying a new one! My hat is off to you :)
Edit: Subscribed ;)
3 years later and the same problem. This video guided me again :)
Thanks!
First off thank you for your very informative videos! I regularly use them to service my bikes. I came to this video because I did the same thing where my chain was on the bottom of the inner cage and rubbed groves. I'll be replacing it today. I appreciate your videos so much!
Thanks for this video. I always thought it was my clutch mechanism that was screwing up, it turns out it was the "axel" as you call it. Mine was completely seized up with the bushing it sits in. I had to carefully ease it out by BASHING-THE-CRAP-OUT-OF-IT with a hammer. Once out I spent a good 10 minutes cleaning it and the bushing to get them nice and shiny again. My internal spring looked like it had been salvaged from the Titanic, but after a good scrubbing, it looks almost brand new. It's now running extra smooth. Thanks again
Pretty sure I am in your situation right now. Came to this video for detail on how it "should" look
Awesome video! My derailleur would not return to the starting position. I followed the video to overhaul it and it works perfectly now!
Same here.
do you mean that the derailleur was stuck in foreward position? if yes it happened also to me, but mine has only 1000km so its a bit strange
If you're getting grit inside the bearing seals they're not sealing properly. Better to replace the bearings with new, improved ones than have to strip and clean out the grease from your sealed bearings (which you should never have to do)..
You should always re-pack the bearings with grease, not oil as that is what they were designed to run in. Oil is too thin and will run out of the bearings past the seals leaving the bearings dry and they will wear out faster, so, use grease!
Thx a million! I managed to follow all your steps, except the clutch cannot be removed from the axle. The steel band around it was easy to take off, but the clutch would not move. This is the first time I checked the mechanism after 10,000 km.
Busted my clutch lever. This will help. Thanks
I also have over 4000+ km on my Cube Reaction and haven't done anything this extensive.
Fantastic explanation that I’ve just followed step but step. My M8000 is now back to its former glory. Thank you.
Great over hall. Very well done with easy to follow instructions. 5 stars for complete procedures explained. Hope to see other moving parts like front and rear suspension linkage as well.
Sir, I salute you! You are a virtuoso! If I took my Shimano apart it would never be coming together again. :)
Simply superb. Makes servicing the derailleur child’s play.
Great video. I like the way you get in nice and close with the camera and hold things steady. So many video makers wave things about and don't let the auto focus catch up. One suggested improvement, though, as the parts are often black why not use coloured gloves to help make the parts stand out. I love the clear and calm narration of all your videos.
Soooooo cool. Thank you so much. It is no rocket science, but I (and many others) just need someone explain and show the Little Tricks. I am looking forward to seeing more maintainable videos from you. Maybe changing the center bearing of the crank shaft or/and pedals (Sudpin 3 S-Pro). I am biking under really muddy conditions here in my area. You really HELPED A LOT. thanks so much.
PS Grease in the open(ed) bearing (the 2 pulleys; not[!!!] freewheel-bearing) the is much better than oil. Use a PTFE grease, which keeps the moisture out. This will enlarge lifetime of the bearing oil will be moved away by overlooking and than you only have steel on steel dry running, grease will „dropped“ in the ball race by gravity and temperature).
Man, your table with slits between them is giving my anxiety. I am so sure you gonna drop something and not find it ever.
Thank you, I never thought about just taking off the bottom pulley to take off the derailler. So much easier. Thank you
I don't even think I had a bicycle where the pulleys could come off. A quality rear mech would be better for servicing though
Request xt M8000 Shifter maintenance.
and yes it is important what type of grease you're using. You don't wanna use anti-seize on the bearings, ideally you should use "fast" grease, basicaly lower density grease, so it doesn't slow the bearings down
Awesome video. I was so relieved there is a video like this. Thanks man.
great detailed video and clear commentary. very helpful.
Very helpful, made it easy to help a friend get his derailleur working again.
thanks so much for this video - i have done the job maybe 5 times now but always need to watch the video - but i am getting quicker!!
Merci grâce a toi j'ai pu sauver mon dérailleur. Thank you thanks to you I was able to save my derailleur.
Thanks I finally did this to my derailleur and it works flawless now thanks very much
Bro, I recommend that you lipeis the parts with diesel and leave them better, it does not damage them and gives them many properties both in paltics and metals.
I think you are right with the chain, that's the way it goes on my xt I think
Wow so much engineering goes into this little thing! 🧔👍
Nice videos mate. Love your channel. I recommend to use compressed air to make parts dry after cleaning in water/degreaser .
Great video! Thank you very much. Now I have the confidence to service my bike.
I remove my chain every 2 to 3 days to clean it. I only do 20 miles a day, but I was knocking chains out within a few months. My bike shop told me to remove it and clean it everyday. I use a quick link, but I found out recently that Shimano ones you can only use once, and KMC 3 x. How do you clean your chain if you use a pin? You wouldn't want to take that out every few days. Is the Park Tool chain cleaner device good enough? I read that it doesn't really clean inside the chain.
Another good video, some of the best bike ones on RUclips.
What brand chains you're using? SRAM chains wear out way easier than let's say KMC or Wippermann
You can use Connex links or Connex chains by Wippermann that you can remove it all you want, or degrease it all and use a wax base lubricant such as Squirt if you don't want to clean thourghly every day (just wiping the chain after a ride is enough).
@@OjStudios KMC say don't remove the chain, and just clean it using a cloth, then regrease. The chain has wax put on it before assembly, and using chemicals will remove this wax.
I have the park tool cyclone scrubber used with original WD-40 as cleaner degreaser. It works very well and chains come out much cleaner than shaking the chain in a bottle with cleaner, using a tooth brush and rags. While it's hard to know what the inner rollers and pins look like, I can say that the chain scrubber yields a chain that's very clean on the outside meaning addition of new lube won't carry dirt from outside into the rollers and pins. Also, manipulating the links after scrubbing, I don't detect any gritty feeling which infers a decent clean internally. I tilt the scrubber slightly through multiple angles as the chain runs through. This causes the bristles to contact chain at different angles and pressures and results in a well cleaned chain. I use Rock and Roll lube in the drier late spring thru November riding season and TriFlow in winter: so quality, appropriate lube for conditions is key as well. Chain scrubber works great, easy to use, both aspects that cause me to clean my drivetrain more often and better than I would without it. A good portion of the WD-40 can be reused since when it's left to sit, the particulates settle out nearly completely. The proof I'd say is that my Shimano 11s chains have yet to show wear of 0.5% based on a Park Tool CC-4 chain wear indicator despite a full year of daily MTB riding in all conditions. Recommend the chain scrubber for sure.
Do you really work on a bench with loads of slots in to lose washers, bolts and who knows what down?
Thanks for the video! Saved me buying a new one/paying a shop to fix mine!
I'd like to see shimano m7000 brake lever overhauled. Mine's dirty so I like to see how to do it properly. Thanks!
So useful video, thank you, but how you put in place the clip with just one finger is a mystery, i've been trying for hours now, losing it again and again, pretty sure I'll never get it right ;)
at 12:28 that part is damn sticky in mine as I have not clean it since I bought it 5 years ago. There is lots of resistance at that pivot. I just took it apart hours ago and wash it and regrease it. Oh my, the shifting improved especially at the smaller cog where the spring tension becomes weaker. Also at13:38, the spring is hooked on the hole of the plate. My older XT had two holes which I forgot which to use. In the end, I choose the hole which is giving me more spring tension.
Yeah its important on what grease you use on top of the clutch plate. @ 12:36 I tired lots and they all failed to work well. Best grease is the Shimano internal hub grease which is recommended. Also make sure to really cake the grease on booth parts.
thank you for the video lots of attention to detail lots of important information!
Great job! Are the spray cleaner lube you used listed?
N1, exactly what i was looking for!
Saved my derailleur - thanks!
Thank. Very interesting and informative. I was afraid to climb into the switch, everything turned out to be just thanks again.
At the end there you mentioned that your bracket should have no resistance however before opening up mine there was some spring tension and when I unscrewed it a spring fell out. Just looking for clarification if the spring is or isn’t needed
You wouldn’t figure how the spring jumped out off its place when I loosed the axle.
I was very lucky because while flying it didn’t crash my tv neither my face.
When I picked it from floor I noticed it looked expanded and bent.
I’d like to share a picture.
Hi, love your tutorial. Help me a lot. Now I know more about my bike. By any chance, you can make a video, how to repair, service Shimano SLX M7000 & XT M8000 - GS 11 Speed shifter trigger. TQ
May I ask you if it is normal to have a little lateral movement in the derailleur cage (Shimano Ultegra r8000)? (The bike has 21.000 km. So far I changed 3 o 4 chains but never the cassette and the crowns). In any case, the shifting is perfect.
you also could mension where it would be good to use a bit of blue thread lock, in my opinion especialy on the pulleys threads, being careful not to use too much.
Hello! I have a shimano xt derailleur, which unfortunately I damaged yesterday. I hit it on a rock, but strangely, only the clutch was damaged. the cover cracked, I saw that it can be replaced. instead, a piece of the body of the clutch, which is actually attached to the derailleur, with rivets, broke. I see that you did not disassemble this part of the clutch in the tutorial either. the question is if this part of the clutch can be changed, because it broke right where the cover screw goes in or do I have to buy a new derailleur? I bought this one last year.... 🙄😥😞 thank you for your answer !
I'm having a problem removing my chain stabilizer. It's stuck. Do you know any way on how could I remove that? My derailleur is Deore XT M8100.
Wow really great video, really helped me out a lot. Thank you so much! Greetings from Germany
This is art! Thanks man.
Now I want to do that. In the workshop is too cold (I don't have a heater), and my wife does not allow me to do that in the living room.
Same story. I close in bathroom to do this when family goes to sleep.
:-)
weird. my m8000 had non bearing pulleys. swapped them out sharpish.
i'll definitely be sealing up those holes at the back of the clutch😬
what do you think about getting an budget friendly 29er Hardtail and convert it to 27,5+ Size Bike for Trails.
It might be a good idea, but I would rather try to find a 27,5 model, that will accept the Plus tires. Can be much cheaper.
@@cannondany can you maybe do another video about best bikes for affordable prices in range of trails like 27,5 hardtails with plus size tyre clearences.
Hi thanks for the comprehensive video, I have this derailleur, the shifting is perfect but i have noticed that the chain rubs slightly on the side of the metal frame that holds the jockey wheels. In fact it seems to be a bit loose in that it can be moved from side to side when looking at the back of the bike. When I try to back pedal on the smallest cassette cog the chain jumps off and moves to bigger cogs on the cassette. Anyone any idea what or how to fix this, at times i can hear / feel the chain rubbing, many thanks. (not sure i have the confidence to take the whole thing in bits so just trying to fix my problem :-) ).
My Pulleys didn't have arrows but those three dots in the middle. So these dots should be visible from the outer side? I build them in to the inner side. Have a M8130 Linkglide derailleur that I cleaned today but i don't know how they were in there because of too much dirt. My old Pulleys are worn out, the chain jumps off the T-Pulley i ordered new ones to change them asap.
Love your maintenance videos Danny!
Hi Tomi, I see you start posting some videos :)
Yeah, I wanted to give it a try :)
Hey Good day! how to fix my clutch switch can you make a video about it? Thanks!
Extremely helpful thanks
Are T-8000 ' s the same for other viewer's information ?
Removing the derailleur without breaking the chain, can it be done in other model of deraileur..?
unless your derailleur is some Chinese no-brand you should be ableto remove the tension pulley with an allen key
Yes.
Can you fix RD-M6000
i wonder what cassette are you using 11-46 ot 11-51T
is m8000 can support 11-51? hoping you cab answer my question
i use 11-46 no problem. I think maximum is 48
m8000 will not handle 11/51
Sunrace makes an 11-50 cassette called the CSXM80. I use it on my m8000 derailleur and it works great.
@@Prodiod actually i realize an article ,m8000 is on;y for 46 bro… yes you can but it my fck up your rd hanger by using 51T but if you think it works we;; good luck then
hi excelent video congrats...very detail. the on off switch what is exactly do? who is the usage of this ? my option is always to off. Is this right?
puts tension on the derailleur. leave it on. less chain slap. i only switch it off if i take my wheels off
I work at a bicycle shop and I can confirm that the comment of Marcell is 100% correct.
Can I replace derailleur hanger to direct mount hanger?
Thanks ! this helped me put everything back together :D
Thank you great video for people thex want konger life for his deraileur
Disassembled RD-M5120... Its terrible... maybe its only mine but the part which should be lightly greased, was covered in grease, and spring with everything around rusted, and spring is bent... Its worth 20 eur today, not sure if it worth to buy a spring separately
hey. i have a problem with my front gear shifter (shimano xt m8000). it jams when i try to downshift with my index finger. i can only downshift with my thumb. maybe you can give me an advice? Thanks! :)
clean out and re-lube your shifters!
Or maybe u have to fine tune your deraileur use the tension screws it might be out of alignment with your cassette
Очень хороший обзор. Завтра переберу свой переключатель. Если не смогу собрать, то тебе пошлю, чтобы ты собрал как специалист! 😉 Привет из России!
Please please can you help me. This looks like the setup I need but can’t find the information anywhere for the life of me. Is the a 10 speed 11-46 cassette with a 34t chainring using the mx8000 Deore rear mech. A reply would be very much appreciated. Thank you
Thank.. I have bending cage of m8000 rd
perfect instructions, very helpful, thank you! Professional work :-)
do you know wether it is possible to install an M8000 cage on an M9000 derailleur? because the xtr carbon plate costs 4x the xt
i think its maybe oneup components? that make aftermarket cages. nice ano shades too
please for eagle also
Very helpful. Thanks!
Hi everybody and thanks SickBiker for your excellent advice... BUT... @8:45 when you take out the axel how do you stop the nut on the back of the axel from turning? When I undo mine with the 4mm allen key it just turns round and round, and so does the silver part on the other end. I can't get at the spring without taking it off.
Any help or advice much appreciated!
I used a drill to make an off-centre hole and jammed it with a second allen key.
your videos are so great and detailed! makes me wanna tear my bike apart!haha keep it up please!
Can I turn a Deore M8000 SGS into a GS by just toggling the cage?
No
can change rd xt m8000 cage sgs to gs?
GS
Snapped me di2 on the X part
Q can I buy a regular xt hanger and replace all but the di2motor?
Hi there,can i use two different jockey wheel sizes in the same derailleur on a bike? thanks
Awesome vid…thank you. Saved me making a bunch of mistakes !
15:42 definitely put some sort of lube (i greased it) there, otherwise it will be prone to creaking when the cage moves later on...
Page 25 si.shimano.com/pdfs/dm/DM-RD0004-08-ENG.pdf
THOSE GAPS😖😖😖😖😖😖😖😖😖😖😖😖😖😖😖BUT GREAT VIDEO sooo clearrrr
So do you change the chain before the 2000 km? And do you think the chain of a Tiagra 10 speed needs a check after 2000km? Thanks.
I only change the chain, when it shows 0,5 on the chain measuring tool (for the lighter, titanium / alloy cassette) and 0,75 for the steel / alloy cassette.
Buen video , muy bien explicado. Gracias
What kind of oil you used for the pulley bearing? Can chain oil be used?
use a synthetic oil. They are a bit more thick than regular chain oil. or anything that's specifically used for bearings.
Hi Danny , can I wash the parts with the high pressure pump (WOMA type 2502-750 bar) ? Dziękuję !
Yes, except for the seals. Make sure to dry all well - pressured air is great.
@@cannondany Thank you !!!
Love you Bro! #LoveFromInda
The what is the cost of your whole Drivetrain??
Is it possible to replace a old freewheel wheel by a new freehub wheel of same size?
In order to switch from the freewheel to the freehub, you need to replace the hub. If you don't lace the spokes yourself, it might be cheaper to buy a complete new wheel.
Watching you take apart all those small parts and screws on that table was cringe worthy. How many parts fell through the gaps?
Thank you, i just bought used m8000 for 45.60 usd.
ok,6:09 that piece of metal in the middle,my chain sometimes grinds on that?new chain 200 km
Chain too long? On the wrong side? Gears not well adjusted?
@@cannondany Chain is above the metal thing and indexing is perfect,how many links on the chain there should be on 2x11 SLX drivetrain/cassette and XT mech?
rd m8000 glass polimer parts use ?? or full alluminum?