I broke a piece of glass due to concentrating a heat gun on one spot. I used the tape measure upside down and mistook 9 for 6...I learned a lot that day.
Dap 33 is a terrible glazing compound. I would recommend Aqua Glaze or Sarco Type M putty. Also, look for triangle glazing points (sold by CR Laurence, Strybuc and others) which are more suitable than push points.
when you say prime the glaze before painting, does this mean just regular paint primer then paint? I am just doing white, is it ok to use paint and primer in one for outdoors?
I always use oil based primer, not water based latex. The oil based will soak into the wood frame and glaze to adhere well. Top coats of paint can be oil based or latex, but I still prefer oil based because it will flow out well and the brush marks will disappear.
Many people recommend bedding, however I've almost never come across a single old window that was originally bedded. And the ones I found that were originally bedded had leaded glass.
I’ve been through this discussion with a few “experts”, and they agree that bedding in a tiny rope of glazing then gently seating the glass is the way to insure that moisture from the inside of the room (condensation) does not compromise the exterior glazing. Let’s say the condensation gets behind the exterior glazing and it freezes, it will eventually loosen the exterior seal. Once that happens, moisture (rain water) can enter the cracks and rapidly ruin the whole purpose of a good exterior seal. Yes, bed the glass and use a putty knife to slide off the excess squeeze out on the inside of the window frame. Paint right up on the glass/putty edge a bit to finalize the seal. If I get a tad sloppy and get the paint too far out on the glass, I can wait for it to dry a few days then use a razor blade window glass scraper.
I would like to reglaze a number of old sash windows in the next couple of weeks. I predict the temperatures to be anywhere from 60 to 85°. Can someone tell me which sarco product to use? I will be working outdoors. Also, the sarco products don't require you to use oil based paint do they? Also, how long do I normally need to wait before painting over the glaze? I'm reading anything from overnight to weeks. Thanks!
Hi David! You would have to use Sarco dual glaze putty since you are working outside. The Sarco Multi-glaze type M is only for indoor, out of the weather use. It takes 2 to 3 weeks for the dual glaze to dry enough to be painted. It can be used in the temperature range you stated, as the temperatures rise the putty gets softer and stickier so it's a little harder to tool smooth. From the product literature it can be painted with oil or latex paint after it has "skinned" over.
Great video but the constant stopping to read the text, really interrupted my focus on what you said before and there are some ppl that can’t read, so they have no clue what you are texting across the screen.
Thank you for all the good info but just a suggestion, I would take out the video still screens with the questions, I feel like it is too distracting, wastes too much time and breaks the continuity of the video, just imo, but otherwise very good!
Ok, this guy obviously knows what he is doing. My comment is merely a point of preference. I do not like that style of point at all. I much prefer the flat triangular style. They come with a small tool - a flat piece of metal bent at one end - which is used with a small hammer to drive them in. Merely preference but they work better for me. Also, I put a coat of linseed oil on the bare wood followed by a bead of glazing before setting the pane in place. Once I set the pane I push it down, (careful) with gentle pressure to seat. Then I put the points.
Does not look like you are bedding your glass which if correct is NOT an acceptable method. Also need to mention that glazing ledges need to be primed if bare. Also disagree with leaving damaged glazing. It can be steamed out safely or use other acceptable methods
I broke a piece of glass due to concentrating a heat gun on one spot. I used the tape measure upside down and mistook 9 for 6...I learned a lot that day.
Thank you great video, you made it easy to understand. Now I UNDERSTAND I will be spending a lot more time glazing my old windows than I thought 🙉
Ano, toto je perfektní postup, precizní práce!!
Great video, Karl. The bad part about that is, people like me are gonna ask a bunch of questions
Unfortunately doesn't seem like he's answering any questions
very informative...thanks for the training!
Is it advisable to keep the putty knife wet so it doesn't stick to the glazing putty and drag it?
Well done very informative... what's the best product to use during cold weather like now 20 degrees
Do you have to mix a catalyst with the glazing putty in order for it to set up? I glazed a window over a year ago and it still soft.
Dap 33 is a terrible glazing compound. I would recommend Aqua Glaze or Sarco Type M putty. Also, look for triangle glazing points (sold by CR Laurence, Strybuc and others) which are more suitable than push points.
Great .... well done.
what type of glaze or puddy do i use for old iron windows
@Allison hardy. Why do you like Aqua glaze and Sarco over Dap 33? Is Sarco an oil bas glaze, like Dap 33
Hi like to do a few exterior windows b4 snow. I'm unclear on what I have to use paint wise (oil ,latex) before & after glaze...
I tried to reglaze my window but it was to sticky. When is the best time to reglaze? Thanks
when you say prime the glaze before painting, does this mean just regular paint primer then paint? I am just doing white, is it ok to use paint and primer in one for outdoors?
I always use oil based primer, not water based latex. The oil based will soak into the wood frame and glaze to adhere well. Top coats of paint can be oil based or latex, but I still prefer oil based because it will flow out well and the brush marks will disappear.
Try the puttychomper, it's new and it's great.
Doesn't that glass need to be bedded first? Feels like a big step is being missed? Can you offer some insight on that please? Thanks.
Many people recommend bedding, however I've almost never come across a single old window that was originally bedded. And the ones I found that were originally bedded had leaded glass.
I’ve been through this discussion with a few “experts”, and they agree that bedding in a tiny rope of glazing then gently seating the glass is the way to insure that moisture from the inside of the room (condensation) does not compromise the exterior glazing. Let’s say the condensation gets behind the exterior glazing and it freezes, it will eventually loosen the exterior seal. Once that happens, moisture (rain water) can enter the cracks and rapidly ruin the whole purpose of a good exterior seal.
Yes, bed the glass and use a putty knife to slide off the excess squeeze out on the inside of the window frame. Paint right up on the glass/putty edge a bit to finalize the seal. If I get a tad sloppy and get the paint too far out on the glass, I can wait for it to dry a few days then use a razor blade window glass scraper.
Thanks for this. In removing old glass, how do I remove old nails/glazing points? Or do I snip them with wire cutters? Or bend them out the way?
If it’s a triangular point, turn your screwdriver or whatever on edge and run along the wood. It should come,out easily.
can I use silicon gel instead of glazing compound in a window in a china closet door?
Usually furniture has a wood quarter round or flat moulding pinned or wedged into place stained and finished to match the inside.
I would like to reglaze a number of old sash windows in the next couple of weeks. I predict the temperatures to be anywhere from 60 to 85°. Can someone tell me which sarco product to use? I will be working outdoors. Also, the sarco products don't require you to use oil based paint do they? Also, how long do I normally need to wait before painting over the glaze? I'm reading anything from overnight to weeks. Thanks!
Hi David! You would have to use Sarco dual glaze putty since you are working outside. The Sarco Multi-glaze type M is only for indoor, out of the weather use. It takes 2 to 3 weeks for the dual glaze to dry enough to be painted. It can be used in the temperature range you stated, as the temperatures rise the putty gets softer and stickier so it's a little harder to tool smooth. From the product literature it can be painted with oil or latex paint after it has "skinned" over.
I snip off the legs a bit so they get covered by the glaze.
Great video but the constant stopping to read the text, really interrupted my focus on what you said before and there are some ppl that can’t read, so they have no clue what you are texting across the screen.
I just wish I'd stop interrupting with all these questions, it sounded like he was just about to answer me every time.
Thank you for all the good info but just a suggestion, I would take out the video still screens with the questions, I feel like it is too distracting, wastes too much time and breaks the continuity of the video, just imo, but otherwise very good!
just patching it doesn't last
Ok, this guy obviously knows what he is doing. My comment is merely a point of preference. I do not like that style of point at all. I much prefer the flat triangular style. They come with a small tool - a flat piece of metal bent at one end - which is used with a small hammer to drive them in. Merely preference but they work better for me. Also, I put a coat of linseed oil on the bare wood followed by a bead of glazing before setting the pane in place. Once I set the pane I push it down, (careful) with gentle pressure to seat. Then I put the points.
Does not look like you are bedding your glass which if correct is NOT an acceptable method. Also need to mention that glazing ledges need to be primed if bare. Also disagree with leaving damaged glazing. It can be steamed out safely or use other acceptable methods
Did You make it with woodprix instructions?
Sounds like the glaze was old.
This time I'll use woodprix instructions to make it by myself.