I could feel your pain Jordan when you were flipping those switches I have arthritis in both my hands also. It gets rough when you're flipping them switches back and forth like that. Loved the video. I do not own any Marantz yet but I plan on owning one eventually I have a lot of nice receivers but no Marantz Even the small ones are pretty expensive I'm still looking around for a good deal on one.
Very good video. One point: you adjust the colector DC bias current of the amplifier final transistors to 64mA (30mV/0.47ohm), while the Service Manual indicates to ajust this current to 21mA (10mV/0,47 ohm). Why do you increase the current? Thanks.
+melondeinvierno sorry for the late reply. I often find that the stock bias adjustments on Marantz 22 series receivers are slightly low -especially for the lower power models. A slight increase lowers crossover distortion slightly, perhaps not noticeable to most. However I've been able to tell with my ear and with a distortion analyzer there is a slight difference in the 3-5khz range
i have gotten my hands on one of these units a while ago and it is a fabulous unit the only issue i have is as of today the AUX input has gone very quiet. any ideas?
I have this receiver and mine is having the same issue you had at the beginning with the volume and speaker not working. So just for yucks I thought I'd give it a search and I'm here. If I move the volume up and down I can eventually come across a setting where both speakers will work. So I am guess it just needs some of your magic spray? Is it DeoxIT 5% Spray Contact Cleaner - D5?
First, open the top and look at the back of the speaker terminals. There are screws that hold them to the eyelet connectors. Make sure they're all tight. If that doesn't do it, figet with the speaker buttons while the channel is out to see if it will come back. If so get some deoxit in those switches and work them about 50 times each. If that doesn't work try the same with the tape monitor. And balance control. If all else fails you may have a bad volume control.
Jordan I have 2215B bought in 1974 I think. It has been on a shelf for years. I know the dial string needs redone but I would love to have it fixed and use it with the turntable my daughter got me for christmas. I have kept my vinyl all these years too. You seem to know your stuff, can you help me?
Hello Jordan, I wonder if you would help me figure out why my left speaker/output plays at reduced volume. I've cleaned all switches with DeOxit a few times to no avail, I will order some of that shield contact cleaner next and try that, if that doesn't work would replacing capacitors be my next step? Hope this finds you safe and healthy during these challenging times!
Sounds like more troubleshooting is in order. Replacing caps doesn't always fix these problems. If you don't have a scope to trace out where in the signal path the left channel diminishes, you'll never know what exactly is causing the problem and may just be pouring money in parts into it.
@@JordanPier Thanks, Jordan, for your honest reply, looks like I may need to invest in diagnostics and educate myself thusly so I can repair these things myself, wish there was a practical tutorial on how to use an oscilloscope to trace signal path thru a receiver and the likes for a newbie like me, Best Regards!
Hi Jordan, I just picked up a 2215B and found a service manual online. Regarding the bias adjustment, the manual indicates 10mV but you tuned the one in the video to 30mV. Is 30mV the optimum for best sound? Thank you!
@@JordanPier Thanks for the quick reply. 10mv is also in called out in my Sansui AU-317 manual but I think that unit definitely sounds better if I bump up above 20mV. I plan to recap the 2215B and then I'll be experimenting with the bias level a bit.
My 2285 has Woofer flutter when Loudness is on and volume cranked on JBL 430's (rated 120W RMS). Would Bias have something to do wtih this? Suggestions appreciated!
marty V.A. if flutter occurrs with no signal attached problems with DC leaking into the loudness circuit is possible. This is a rare failure. If you're playing records, this is more common due to records having imperfect surfaces along with acoustic feedback and poor cartridge compliance. Remove the signal from the input and observe again. If no flutter the problem is in your music source. If flutter is still present there is a problem in the loudness circuit - if it only does it with loudness on
as far as restore kits, there are none that I know of. if it works fine with no issues just enjoy it. treat switches and controls with caig deoxit, replace the lamps and you should be fine
Lately I noticed that one speaker is considerably quieter than the other and not so long ago I accidentally shut the receiver off as described above, so I thought that could have done the damage. I switched the speaker places, and still the same one is quiet. It works fine on higher volume levels, but still isn’t as loud as the other one. Is it the speaker or just potentiometer?
@@MrLaskez99 swap wires at the back of the speakers ( right to left and left to right). If the same speaker is still quiet it's the speakers fault. If the other speakers quiet now it's the receivers fault
I just got one. A 2215b in BLACK. yes Sir black. I´m curious if they exist on the U.S. market, or is it just european import. ? Google doesent tell much.
Thanks. Btw. Its an awesome sounding Receiver. Equal or better than a freshly serviced HK 70´s models ( 430,630,930 more powerful obviously - but not better in any way with moderate volume) In my book top tier. Lots of Gusto and attitude.
First of all - really appreciating your give-away-knowledge! When attaching the first clamp here: ruclips.net/video/Jfk5rTGOYeI/видео.html - I managed to lean it to the big metal part at the left. Result: blew it. Darn. My bad of course - any advice on how to proceed?
You're going to need service literature with a schematic, and to replace the output transistors and driver transistors at minimum. There will likely be burned open resistors in that signal path as well. Direct coupled amps like this go down hard when a part is shorted.
Ok, so I personally would just use LEDs if replacing the lamps on that classic vintage amplifier. I'm sure many puritans may get strongly pissed at my opinion.
I like the look of the original lamps. If they ever make LED lamps that can exactly mimic the color temp and illumination dispersion of the incandescent lamps -ill do it. Otherwise no. LEDs are a replace it and forget it. I also can't stand the flicker, and rectifying and smoothing the lamp voltage may require a dropping resistor to lower brightness - otherwise it's just too damn bright for my taste
I like brightness, that's why I thought of LED, for the extra brightness (though idk how the display actually looks irl). As for flicker I have no idea what people are talking about when they say LEDs flicker, they don't flicker for me or at least I can't see it, I guess some people have faster eyes.
Thanks for the guide Jordan. Just gave my Marantz 1040 a little tidy up thanks to your help!
I could feel your pain Jordan when you were flipping those switches I have arthritis in both my hands also. It gets rough when you're flipping them switches back and forth like that. Loved the video. I do not own any Marantz yet but I plan on owning one eventually I have a lot of nice receivers but no Marantz Even the small ones are pretty expensive I'm still looking around for a good deal on one.
Two small screws in the back will remove the meter lamp without having to dismantle that dial string pulley. Great info...
Very good video. One point: you adjust the colector DC bias current of the amplifier final transistors to 64mA (30mV/0.47ohm), while the Service Manual indicates to ajust this current to 21mA (10mV/0,47 ohm). Why do you increase the current? Thanks.
+melondeinvierno sorry for the late reply. I often find that the stock bias adjustments on Marantz 22 series receivers are slightly low -especially for the lower power models. A slight increase lowers crossover distortion slightly, perhaps not noticeable to most. However I've been able to tell with my ear and with a distortion analyzer there is a slight difference in the 3-5khz range
OK, understood. Thanks.
Can you help me to change relay on a 2215L please ? thanks
i have gotten my hands on one of these units a while ago and it is a fabulous unit the only issue i have is as of today the AUX input has gone very quiet. any ideas?
I have this receiver and mine is having the same issue you had at the beginning with the volume and speaker not working. So just for yucks I thought I'd give it a search and I'm here. If I move the volume up and down I can eventually come across a setting where both speakers will work. So I am guess it just needs some of your magic spray? Is it DeoxIT 5% Spray Contact Cleaner - D5?
First, open the top and look at the back of the speaker terminals. There are screws that hold them to the eyelet connectors. Make sure they're all tight.
If that doesn't do it, figet with the speaker buttons while the channel is out to see if it will come back. If so get some deoxit in those switches and work them about 50 times each.
If that doesn't work try the same with the tape monitor. And balance control.
If all else fails you may have a bad volume control.
@@JordanPier thanks for the quick reply I will try your suggestions!!!!!!
Don't the caps go out of spec or leak at 50 years?
Alot more now then when i made this video
Jordan I have 2215B bought in 1974 I think. It has been on a shelf for years. I know the dial string needs redone but I would love to have it fixed and use it with the turntable my daughter got me for christmas. I have kept my vinyl all these years too. You seem to know your stuff, can you help me?
Sure. Inbox me vintageavrepair at gmail dot com
Hello Jordan, I wonder if you would help me figure out why my left speaker/output plays at reduced volume.
I've cleaned all switches with DeOxit a few times to no avail, I will order some of that shield contact cleaner next and try that, if that doesn't work would replacing capacitors be my next step? Hope this finds you safe and healthy during these challenging times!
Sounds like more troubleshooting is in order. Replacing caps doesn't always fix these problems. If you don't have a scope to trace out where in the signal path the left channel diminishes, you'll never know what exactly is causing the problem and may just be pouring money in parts into it.
@@JordanPier Thanks, Jordan, for your honest reply, looks like I may need to invest in diagnostics and educate myself thusly so I can repair these things myself, wish there was a practical tutorial on how to use an oscilloscope to trace signal path thru a receiver and the likes for a newbie like me, Best Regards!
Hi Jordan, I just picked up a 2215B and found a service manual online. Regarding the bias adjustment, the manual indicates 10mV but you tuned the one in the video to 30mV. Is 30mV the optimum for best sound? Thank you!
10mv is ok, but in these I find the slightly higher bias setting yields a little less distortion.
@@JordanPier Thanks for the quick reply. 10mv is also in called out in my Sansui AU-317 manual but I think that unit definitely sounds better if I bump up above 20mV. I plan to recap the 2215B and then I'll be experimenting with the bias level a bit.
My 2285 has Woofer flutter when Loudness is on and volume cranked on JBL 430's (rated 120W RMS). Would Bias have something to do wtih this? Suggestions appreciated!
marty V.A. if flutter occurrs with no signal attached problems with DC leaking into the loudness circuit is possible. This is a rare failure. If you're playing records, this is more common due to records having imperfect surfaces along with acoustic feedback and poor cartridge compliance.
Remove the signal from the input and observe again. If no flutter the problem is in your music source. If flutter is still present there is a problem in the loudness circuit - if it only does it with loudness on
where i can find a restoration kit for the Marantz 2215B and some lamps?
look up dwojo for lamps
Thank you for the info
I appreciate it.
as far as restore kits, there are none that I know of. if it works fine with no issues just enjoy it. treat switches and controls with caig deoxit, replace the lamps and you should be fine
I appreciate your procedures. Kindly would appreciate like wise please clean your Scope and make it presentable.
Hello! Do you know what can happen if I turn the receiver off without having speaker set turned off beforehand? I mean, can this damage the speakers?
Very doubtful
Lately I noticed that one speaker is considerably quieter than the other and not so long ago I accidentally shut the receiver off as described above, so I thought that could have done the damage. I switched the speaker places, and still the same one is quiet. It works fine on higher volume levels, but still isn’t as loud as the other one. Is it the speaker or just potentiometer?
@@MrLaskez99 swap wires at the back of the speakers ( right to left and left to right). If the same speaker is still quiet it's the speakers fault. If the other speakers quiet now it's the receivers fault
@@JordanPier You mean reverse polarity?
Reverse just on one that’s been quiet or on both?
I just got one. A 2215b in BLACK. yes Sir black. I´m curious if they exist on the U.S. market, or is it just european import. ? Google doesent tell much.
+Funkywallot that would usually indicate it's for the euro markets. Pioneer sansui and Kenwood had their black face models too
Thanks. Btw. Its an awesome sounding Receiver. Equal or better than a freshly serviced HK 70´s models ( 430,630,930 more powerful obviously - but not better in any way with moderate volume) In my book top tier. Lots of Gusto and attitude.
How can I contact you?
vintageavrepair at gmail dot com
Jordan, was gonna buy a used 2215b for $75 but after watching this maybe not such a good idea. Nobody in my area has your skill, nor do I.
First of all - really appreciating your give-away-knowledge! When attaching the first clamp here: ruclips.net/video/Jfk5rTGOYeI/видео.html - I managed to lean it to the big metal part at the left. Result: blew it. Darn. My bad of course - any advice on how to proceed?
You're going to need service literature with a schematic, and to replace the output transistors and driver transistors at minimum. There will likely be burned open resistors in that signal path as well. Direct coupled amps like this go down hard when a part is shorted.
Ok, so I personally would just use LEDs if replacing the lamps on that classic vintage amplifier.
I'm sure many puritans may get strongly pissed at my opinion.
I like the look of the original lamps. If they ever make LED lamps that can exactly mimic the color temp and illumination dispersion of the incandescent lamps -ill do it. Otherwise no. LEDs are a replace it and forget it. I also can't stand the flicker, and rectifying and smoothing the lamp voltage may require a dropping resistor to lower brightness - otherwise it's just too damn bright for my taste
I like brightness, that's why I thought of LED, for the extra brightness (though idk how the display actually looks irl). As for flicker I have no idea what people are talking about when they say LEDs flicker, they don't flicker for me or at least I can't see it, I guess some people have faster eyes.
Man, you need to clean the face of your oscilloscope.