So glad I found your video. Have an 11 Sequoia with flickering lights and bobbing volt meter in dash. Was dreading getting the front end removed just to get to the alternator. Going to try this hack as soon as the part arrives. I have a two post lift in my barn, so it may get done in record time. Subscribed and will report back once it's done. ETA: Going to temper my enthusiasm. I have the 5.7L. Hoping there's enough similarity there to make this work.
Hey thanks for the feedback glad it helped! Don’t forget to subscribe! I always add videos if it will help - but that tundra never breaks hahaha so it’s a great truck just not for content on this channel. Of course it only has 200,000
Actually, my truck is a 2uz 4.7 L! And also for what it’s worth, the canister filters are a good thing… traditionally, oil filters have a bypass valve in them so when the engine demands very high oil pressure and flow at higher RPMs in loads, oil bypasses the filter and goes to critical engine components, but if that filter is made incorrectly, the filter could in fact starve the engines components of the oil that it needs, so rather than rely on aftermarket manufacturers getting it right, Toyota and many others decided on canister filters so that the bypass valve is inside the engine. It has nothing to do with materials saved or the cost to manufacture
@@DrewGarage Good info didn't realize that. It's funny our 1950s Ford grain truck had a canister style and I always hated changing the oil on it because it was hard to get it to seal properly and I covered the floor in a thin film of oil more than once. The 5.7 Tundra I have has the canister style and the OEM composite style seals well but if you get an aftermarket metal one it has the same issues as the old Ford one...but its good to know that it provides a bit better protection.
Well, I’m not exactly sure how I did, but I would’ve remembered if it was difficult… Yes, the power steering was left in, but I had no problem at all getting to the bolts to get out the alternator…
You are most welcome! That’s what this channels all about! This happens to be my personal truck, but we also own a small dealership, and I try to get it on film every time I find a way to eliminate the necessary steps from the factory manuals. Consider subscribing :-) my truck just hit 200,000 miles, anything worthwhile will be posted here
Excellent video! There’s so much misinformation out there it’s nice to get a real, true, honest, easy way to do it. Thank you so much.
This video is saving me from removing the radiator and stuff, I'm happy. Thank you. Shop manual shows removing all kinds of stuff
So glad I found your video. Have an 11 Sequoia with flickering lights and bobbing volt meter in dash. Was dreading getting the front end removed just to get to the alternator. Going to try this hack as soon as the part arrives. I have a two post lift in my barn, so it may get done in record time. Subscribed and will report back once it's done. ETA: Going to temper my enthusiasm. I have the 5.7L. Hoping there's enough similarity there to make this work.
thanks for the awesome tips man I had the job done in 25 minutes. sway bar and large stud
Hey thanks for the feedback glad it helped! Don’t forget to subscribe! I always add videos if it will help - but that tundra never breaks hahaha so it’s a great truck just not for content on this channel. Of course it only has 200,000
Thank you, going to tackle this issue tomorrow. Fingers crossed!
Thanks for viewing! Hope it helped! Let us know, and please subscribe!
Just bot a 2013 tundra 5.7. Thanks fir the help.
Thanks! Please subscribe
Hey i have a 2017. Alot of other vids say i need to drop the power steering pump. Did you do that?
Good video, I like the approach of dropping the sway bar! I just noticed that truck has a spin on oil filter...was that an adapter for the 4.6 or 5.7?
Actually, my truck is a 2uz 4.7 L!
And also for what it’s worth, the canister filters are a good thing… traditionally, oil filters have a bypass valve in them so when the engine demands very high oil pressure and flow at higher RPMs in loads, oil bypasses the filter and goes to critical engine components, but if that filter is made incorrectly, the filter could in fact starve the engines components of the oil that it needs, so rather than rely on aftermarket manufacturers getting it right, Toyota and many others decided on canister filters so that the bypass valve is inside the engine. It has nothing to do with materials saved or the cost to manufacture
@@DrewGarage Good info didn't realize that. It's funny our 1950s Ford grain truck had a canister style and I always hated changing the oil on it because it was hard to get it to seal properly and I covered the floor in a thin film of oil more than once. The 5.7 Tundra I have has the canister style and the OEM composite style seals well but if you get an aftermarket metal one it has the same issues as the old Ford one...but its good to know that it provides a bit better protection.
@@kermitzforg yea my 1950 Chevy had a canister! I want to say it was Fram c1 or c5 filters. They were the size of toilet paper rolls
Looks like the psp was left in, how exactly did you access the top 2 alternator bolts, thx
Well, I’m not exactly sure how I did, but I would’ve remembered if it was difficult… Yes, the power steering was left in, but I had no problem at all getting to the bolts to get out the alternator…
Seems impossible without removing the ps pump
@@10RFuentes no it works. I saw me do it :)
3 different types of alternators for some reason@@10RFuentes
Thanks, much appreciated.
You are most welcome! That’s what this channels all about! This happens to be my personal truck, but we also own a small dealership, and I try to get it on film every time I find a way to eliminate the necessary steps from the factory manuals. Consider subscribing :-) my truck just hit 200,000 miles, anything worthwhile will be posted here
Thanks for sharing 👍
this is in a 2uz or a 3ur?
Why toyota?