Getting that tension clip back on was, quite possibly, one of the most infuriating tasks I have ever undertaken. Thanks for the video. It made the difference and saved my evening!
Thanks, John, the technique worked great. I also used an x-acto knife to initially separate the layers of the ring and then switched to the pick to move it into the groove. George Fry's suggestion about using zip ties to compress the washer was a great help, too. SRAM RED eTap AXS RD.
Thanks so much! This assembly came apart on my NX derailleur and I wasn't sure how it was supposed to be reassembled. I was able to get the split washer in with my hands, splitting it with my fingernails, which worked with a bit of patience.
Glad I came across this video. I was about to replace my 2015 XO1 rear derailleur because of a cracked B-tension plate. I didn't even know they sold this repair kit. SRAM # 11.7518.014.000
Helpful video. A minor difference with the NX. SRAM doesn't give a wave washer with that replacement kit, but rather a thin red O-ring. The split ring was a bear to install, even with a dental pick.
Thanks for the video. I spent ages trying to get that damn thing on but got there in the end. I replaced the mech and then unscrewed the bolt holding the mech on the hanger and I noticed the split washer had come off its seating. I’m going to have to do the whole thing again tomorrow because it’s late now and I’ve got zero patience. I wonder what would happen if I left the split washer off???
Nice! I'm having some issues with my NX eagle derailleur around this area; there's too much lateral play. I'm guessing either the wavy washer or the retainer ring is out of position for some reason so I'm looking into that first.
I took mine apart and forgot about it and putting it back together was driving me crazy. Thanks for this. But man, SRAM sucks. So overly complicated/difficult for a stupid mech
Great video. What causes you to want to change the b screw? I have grinding when I'm torquing on the crank going up hill primarily. Is the screw likely causing the problem. Thanks!
I break the B-adjust washer quite a bit on my DH bike. That's the only reason. It's a known issue and Sram has fixed it, but didn't issue a recall or anything, which is annoying. If you are getting grinding only when you are in a high torque scenario I doubt this is your issue, because it would just grind all the time. It's hard to diagnose the issue without the bike and knowing where the grinding is coming from. Just check to make sure your upper pulley of the derailleur is about 15 mm away from your lowest (biggest) gear on your cassette with your weight on the bike. In my experience with grinding cranks or cassettes I have done the following: -ensure your derailleur is adjusted correctly -re-grease your bottom bracket and cranks and tighten them to the proper torque specs. -ensure your cassette lock ring is tightened to the proper torque. -check the pivots for play in your frame if it's a full suspension. If all else fails take it to the bike shop. I've had a creaky crank on my old bike for a while and ended up finding a crack in my frame that was causing it, so give it a good inspection!
If you're replacing the ring, you can just yank the old one out with needle nosed pliers. It bends and comes out pretty easily. If you'r going to reuse it, I imagine a pic would be the way to go. Try to find the top end of the spiral ring.
Do you think I could use this Shimano kit for my bigbox bike? My B tension plate broke off of my "Pro Rush" deraileur that came on my Schwinn Taff, just the little arm part. It's a bummer because you can't even buy a replacement deraileur. I could buy a better deraileur as a replacement..if the cassette didn't match the deraileur. And the shifter. Oh, and it's a freewheel. That's an entire drivetrain plus a wheel that I would have to replace, costing 372 doll hairs (and that's serious budget components), for this tiny little broken piece. I knew I should have forked out double the cash for a real bike..but I was so excited to ride, serious mistakes were made.
I'm guessing the derailleur isn't serviceable to replace the plate? I'm not familiar with these shimano components, but you should be able to replace the derailleur with the another better quality shimano derailleur of the same speed, so your shifter and cassette spacing all match up. That shouldn't cost more than 50 bones. You could probably even find a used one cheaper.
Another thanks, One of these days I should start videoing my repairs, I've also got a lot of info I can share. just wondering how you shot your video?. tripod for smartphone? or real video camera?
So, this was poster earlier. I damaged the hanger and I am trying to replace it. In order to do that I also need to replace the hanger bolt. I have the new hanger and hanger bolt, but for the life of me can not figure a way to get the c-clip out of the old hanger bolt that is still attached to my X9 derailleur. I have made it to the b-adjust washer and can see the clip, but how to get it off of the hanger bolt? Any suggestions from anyone who has had to reverse engineer the above tutorial? Thanks
@@ap8833 I resolved it when my bike shop told me they couldn't get the clip off. Fortunately, I remembered a discussion about removing the hanger bolt in a MTB forum. I purchased a dental pick. It's precise and strong enough to grab the clip and pull it up over the threads of the hanger bolt. I had the clip off in a minute and the bike is up and running. The pick is now another tool in my bike toolbox.
Do you need the small parts. Can you just fit the derailleur without the split and/or wavy ring so that you just have the b tension bolt stopper and b bolt?
I have been told by another mechanic that you can run it without the split ring and just the wave washer. I actually tried it, and it seems to work fine, but there was a little bit more play in the derailleur.
is it normal for these x1 sram derailleurs to have a slight play when bolted in to the frame and no chain attached? I Can sligthly rock my force 1 back and forth and maybe it was due to damage.
@@johnjaguar89 ok thanks for the reply! The play seems to be quite large though, I'm measuring about 1mm to 2mm at the upper jockey wheel. it's true that once the chain is in place, I cannot rock the derailleur anymore. But I was wondering if this had to do with some washers missing. I had one washer that came with the derailleur (a loose washer, not the ones you are using here) and lost it at some point. Glad to know it's somewhat normal though
Or some idiot stripped out the torx on a used bike you purchased. The guy must have used a regular hex on the torx. Thanks - Ordered a eTAP replacement but zipped tied the limit down and replaced while sitting on the couch.
Getting that tension clip back on was, quite possibly, one of the most infuriating tasks I have ever undertaken. Thanks for the video. It made the difference and saved my evening!
Thanks, John, the technique worked great. I also used an x-acto knife to initially separate the layers of the ring and then switched to the pick to move it into the groove. George Fry's suggestion about using zip ties to compress the washer was a great help, too. SRAM RED eTap AXS RD.
Thanks so much! This assembly came apart on my NX derailleur and I wasn't sure how it was supposed to be reassembled. I was able to get the split washer in with my hands, splitting it with my fingernails, which worked with a bit of patience.
Great video, my B Tension washer has free play in it and causing me problems shifting up into the highest gear.
It was a slight PITA for about 10 mins but I got it! Thank you for posting.
Thank you John, I took my mech off to transport the bike and this stuff all sprang off. This is very helpful for me.
Glad I came across this video. I was about to replace my 2015 XO1 rear derailleur because of a cracked B-tension plate. I didn't even know they sold this repair kit.
SRAM # 11.7518.014.000
Thank you! I looked everywhere for an assembly drawing after my son took apart his x1. Your video cleared up my confusion
이 영상은 진짜 최고인듯. 아무도 알려주지 않았지만 언젠가는 자가정비하는 사람들이 꼭 필요한 영상이네요.
Dear John. Thanks for your Vid. Helped me a lot! Mounting this washer is really a pain.
hey mate, bloody big thanks for taking the time to make this video, I for one definitely appreciate it.
Thank you so much for posting this. Helped so much. You can zip-tie the tension plate to the derailleur to get both hands free.
Using the clamp like you did is genius! I never thought of that
Helpful video. A minor difference with the NX. SRAM doesn't give a wave washer with that replacement kit, but rather a thin red O-ring. The split ring was a bear to install, even with a dental pick.
my new NX has nothing, I think they forgot to put it on, it's very loose!
legend, very handy, shop told me i need a while new rear derailleur, this confirms its just replace the b plate
Thanks, this was exactly what I needed to get the new hanger bolt on.
You sir, have saved me from punching a wall and breaking my hand. THANK YOU!!!
Haha Good! Glad I could help.
Great help, thanks for taking the time to make this video!
Awesome video , a big help !! Such a easy method used , I got it on as quick as you did in this video once again thanks
I ended up buying a little O ring form Ace Hardware for 79c that replaced the red o-ring found in the SX and NX levels.
Thank you... SO much for this. Allowed me to diagnose what my problem was and how to fix it
Made it so much easier! Fixed mine in 10mins, great video
Thanks exactly what I was looking for. This thing pops off way to easy
Thank you for uploading this informative video.Also works on SRAM RED rear Derailleur.
Thanks for the video. I spent ages trying to get that damn thing on but got there in the end. I replaced the mech and then unscrewed the bolt holding the mech on the hanger and I noticed the split washer had come off its seating. I’m going to have to do the whole thing again tomorrow because it’s late now and I’ve got zero patience. I wonder what would happen if I left the split washer off???
Great video! We're a new shop and haven't had to replace that bolt yet, and the SRAM web site wasn't much help. Thanks!
Yep, perfect, got it on straight away after watching this. Thanks!
Haha just found this video AGAIN and it got me up and running AGAIN, I owe you a beer!!!
Nice! I'm having some issues with my NX eagle derailleur around this area; there's too much lateral play. I'm guessing either the wavy washer or the retainer ring is out of position for some reason so I'm looking into that first.
Amazing just what I was looking for thank you!
Thanks so much for posting this. Thought I destroyed my new eTap rear D. Whew!
Thank you. You’re a hero
I took mine apart and forgot about it and putting it back together was driving me crazy. Thanks for this. But man, SRAM sucks. So overly complicated/difficult for a stupid mech
You rock!! Thank you so much for posting this video!
Thank you, I have just fixed my mech thanks to your video 🤜🤛
whats the measurement of that wavy washer>?
Great video. What causes you to want to change the b screw? I have grinding when I'm torquing on the crank going up hill primarily. Is the screw likely causing the problem. Thanks!
I break the B-adjust washer quite a bit on my DH bike. That's the only reason. It's a known issue and Sram has fixed it, but didn't issue a recall or anything, which is annoying.
If you are getting grinding only when you are in a high torque scenario I doubt this is your issue, because it would just grind all the time. It's hard to diagnose the issue without the bike and knowing where the grinding is coming from.
Just check to make sure your upper pulley of the derailleur is about 15 mm away from your lowest (biggest) gear on your cassette with your weight on the bike.
In my experience with grinding cranks or cassettes I have done the following:
-ensure your derailleur is adjusted correctly
-re-grease your bottom bracket and cranks and tighten them to the proper torque specs.
-ensure your cassette lock ring is tightened to the proper torque.
-check the pivots for play in your frame if it's a full suspension.
If all else fails take it to the bike shop. I've had a creaky crank on my old bike for a while and ended up finding a crack in my frame that was causing it, so give it a good inspection!
But how do you remove the collar? Mine stripped.
Thanks for the vid man! It's the only one I've found
Super helpful! Thanks a bunch!
great video
i have just follow your direction and succeeded immediately..........THANKS
Thank you exactly what I needed.
Awesome! Just did this! Thank you so much!
Thanks for video!! Is there anyway to take it back?
Fantastic! Thank you for posting!
Great video👍🏻 Saved me a lot of time & prevented me from getting a sledge hammer out 😂
I can’t can’t get out... how can I do it ...??
If you're replacing the ring, you can just yank the old one out with needle nosed pliers. It bends and comes out pretty easily. If you'r going to reuse it, I imagine a pic would be the way to go. Try to find the top end of the spiral ring.
Many tx. Very helpfull. From the netherlands i greet you!
it works on original Red eTap 11 speed. Thanks!
What bolt is the one that screws into the frame? Is it a t25 torx?
Do you think I could use this Shimano kit for my bigbox bike? My B tension plate broke off of my "Pro Rush" deraileur that came on my Schwinn Taff, just the little arm part. It's a bummer because you can't even buy a replacement deraileur. I could buy a better deraileur as a replacement..if the cassette didn't match the deraileur. And the shifter. Oh, and it's a freewheel. That's an entire drivetrain plus a wheel that I would have to replace, costing 372 doll hairs (and that's serious budget components), for this tiny little broken piece. I knew I should have forked out double the cash for a real bike..but I was so excited to ride, serious mistakes were made.
I'm guessing the derailleur isn't serviceable to replace the plate? I'm not familiar with these shimano components, but you should be able to replace the derailleur with the another better quality shimano derailleur of the same speed, so your shifter and cassette spacing all match up. That shouldn't cost more than 50 bones. You could probably even find a used one cheaper.
Thanks. just what I need.
Another thanks, One of these days I should start videoing my repairs, I've also got a lot of info I can share. just wondering how you shot your video?. tripod for smartphone? or real video camera?
a lot of thanks.I almost bought a new one
So, this was poster earlier. I damaged the hanger and I am trying to replace it. In order to do that I also need to replace the hanger bolt. I have the new hanger and hanger bolt, but for the life of me can not figure a way to get the c-clip out of the old hanger bolt that is still attached to my X9 derailleur. I have made it to the b-adjust washer and can see the clip, but how to get it off of the hanger bolt? Any suggestions from anyone who has had to reverse engineer the above tutorial? Thanks
Same issue. I used a dremel to break off the washer - just be careful not to cut into the hanger.
@@ap8833 I resolved it when my bike shop told me they couldn't get the clip off. Fortunately, I remembered a discussion about removing the hanger bolt in a MTB forum. I purchased a dental pick. It's precise and strong enough to grab the clip and pull it up over the threads of the hanger bolt. I had the clip off in a minute and the bike is up and running. The pick is now another tool in my bike toolbox.
Do you need the small parts. Can you just fit the derailleur without the split and/or wavy ring so that you just have the b tension bolt stopper and b bolt?
I have been told by another mechanic that you can run it without the split ring and just the wave washer. I actually tried it, and it seems to work fine, but there was a little bit more play in the derailleur.
@@johnjaguar89 yep I'm running it without the split ring and had the same experience as you
I can also confirm there is more play in the derailleur without the split ring. So much so that I couldn't get smooth shifting
Does this replacement kit work on all eagle rear derailleur including the AXS?
The design has probably changed on the newer stuff, so I don't know.
is it normal for these x1 sram derailleurs to have a slight play when bolted in to the frame and no chain attached? I Can sligthly rock my force 1 back and forth and maybe it was due to damage.
Yes it will have slight play. Not enough to cause poor shifting, but there will be some because it has to move freely. I doubt it's damaged.
@@johnjaguar89 ok thanks for the reply! The play seems to be quite large though, I'm measuring about 1mm to 2mm at the upper jockey wheel. it's true that once the chain is in place, I cannot rock the derailleur anymore. But I was wondering if this had to do with some washers missing. I had one washer that came with the derailleur (a loose washer, not the ones you are using here) and lost it at some point.
Glad to know it's somewhat normal though
NoNotReally any problems since? I’ve got the same problem
@@Megadeth6633 any problems since? I’ve got the same problem
THANK YOU HEAPS!!!!!
Thank you
thank you!!
I broke just my b-tension screw - do you happen to know the size? I'm guessing its m4x20mm?
I use a m4 25mm
ty sir
thanks G
My B screw destroyed mine. I've only have the bike 6 days, brand new 2020 model. I'm fucking pissed. The shop better help keep put a new one in.
Or some idiot stripped out the torx on a used bike you purchased. The guy must have used a regular hex on the torx. Thanks - Ordered a eTAP replacement but zipped tied the limit down and replaced while sitting on the couch.
BTW, looks like there's a tool for this, but god knows where you'd find it. ruclips.net/video/OHapvEBVE-M/видео.html
Thank you