FANTASTIC install video. The build looks really good. good. I am glad it corrected your alignment issue. I do have a few minor additions for the viewers of this video. The Upper control arm controls Camber and Caster angles, front toe is controlled by the OE tie-rods on this vehicle. Also when you are tightening any control arm with a rubber bushing, make sure the arm is in the position in which it will be when in the resting and loaded position. Meaning that you need to either ck up the suspension so the control arm is where it would sit when the vehicle is on the ground or lower the vehicle to the ground before the final torque is put on the upper control arm bolts. This will ensure that the bushings are not over-articulated and they will last much longer.
In addition to camber adjustments, the other adjustment is not for toe, it's for caster. Toe is adjusted with the tie rods. But otherwise, great explanation!
You have to take the strut out to install for my car. The bottom and the three screws on top. Then you’ll be able to get the two screws behind the suspension through the upper control arm.
Thank you so much for your videos! Will be painting a 1959 Chevy sedan delivery soon. Any suggestions on how to paint under the wings ( fins) would be greatly appreciated.
Something I’ve wondered with these is, how does the bolt bite down hard enough on that adjustable part and so it won’t slide after a period of time or a few hard bumps? Is it groves underneath on the plates?
Nice and easy upgrade Pharraway, I always thought a little negative camber on the front (top of the wheels tilt inward a fraction) helps with the handling🤔 but knowing me I'm wrong🤷♂😂John UK.
FANTASTIC install video. The build looks really good. good. I am glad it corrected your alignment issue. I do have a few minor additions for the viewers of this video. The Upper control arm controls Camber and Caster angles, front toe is controlled by the OE tie-rods on this vehicle. Also when you are tightening any control arm with a rubber bushing, make sure the arm is in the position in which it will be when in the resting and loaded position. Meaning that you need to either ck up the suspension so the control arm is where it would sit when the vehicle is on the ground or lower the vehicle to the ground before the final torque is put on the upper control arm bolts. This will ensure that the bushings are not over-articulated and they will last much longer.
In addition to camber adjustments, the other adjustment is not for toe, it's for caster. Toe is adjusted with the tie rods. But otherwise, great explanation!
Nice work man
You have to take the strut out to install for my car. The bottom and the three screws on top. Then you’ll be able to get the two screws behind the suspension through the upper control arm.
Thank you so much for your videos! Will be painting a 1959 Chevy sedan delivery soon. Any suggestions on how to paint under the wings ( fins) would be greatly appreciated.
can you email me at pharrawaypaint@gmail.com
Something I’ve wondered with these is, how does the bolt bite down hard enough on that adjustable part and so it won’t slide after a period of time or a few hard bumps? Is it groves underneath on the plates?
Yes they are slotted
Nice and easy upgrade Pharraway, I always thought a little negative camber on the front (top of the wheels tilt inward a fraction) helps with the handling🤔 but knowing me I'm wrong🤷♂😂John UK.