Appreciate the heads up re META35 ! Have been dithering around for months wondering whether to jump onto the F5, this seals the deal Ted. Onya mate. Mal Oz
If you're using a film camera that doesn't contain a computer, you can get an app for your phone called PhotoExif. You can input all of your camera and lens info, as well as what film you are using. Then, as you are taking pictures you can dial in the settings in the app and press the "Shutter" button and it records all of the metadata. After you scan your negatives you sync the images to the metadata. It's very simple and easy to use. The only downside is you have to remember to hit the button on the app after you shoot each photo. It can get tedious if you are shooting 35mm, but with medium and large format it's not a pain. I recommend it.
Great vids as usual. Re the F5 and Metadata35...with the nikon MF-28 data back attached and the clock set correctly, the F5 will also record the timestamp each image was shot. Then using Metdata35 it will recall that timestamp and embed that into the image metadata rather than the time and date you pulled the data from the camera. Further, once you have the timestamp each image was taken stored inside the tiff file, you can then match this to the timestamp of any GPS data you might have recorded on a handheld GPS unit at the time you shot image....assuming the clock in the GPS is set to the same time as the clock in the MF-28 :-) I use a Garmin Epix strapped to my wrist for this. Its a manual process to add the GPS data into the file using say, Lightroom, but at least you end up with a file with a decent set of metadata that has time/date/camera settings along with a mapable set of gps coordinates. But we're shooting film, so where's the rush, eh ?😎
Great video Ted. Talk about timely, I just started using Meta35 with my Nikon F100 and Canon 1V and love it. I also just rescanned some negatives using your suggestions and they look great! Thank you so much for posting this!
More "photo lit" less gear please! Love the show always, but nothing beats learning about the greats and you've introduced me to so many. Keep em coming! Thanks Ted
Thank you for doing this series of videos, Having just developed and scanned my first rolls of film with a F100, I can see that I'm not to far off track.
I'm currently using a dedicated refurbished Coolscan LS-2000 (circa 2000) for the web. It cost about £130 in total ( I think I got lucky considering people are selling the SA20 adapters for over £100 alone on fleaBay) , but I have to use an old dedicated SCSI PCI Adaptec compatible, Windows XP PC for this. Orphaned tech I suppose, but I've been far happier with the results than any of the current flatbeds I've used. On screen, they look quite faithful to the darkroom prints from the same negative. I scan in 'plain' and import them to Lightroom without adjustment. They will look flat and grey, but there are only one or two moves to bring out the punch of the negative much as I would do with exposure and filters in the darkroom. Using the scanning software and finalising the initial scan (via VueScan etc) seems limiting. I think of them as 'RAW' images. Lightroom, of course, didn't exist back then. So to me fiddling with the native scanning software is redundant since its release. I sharpen very minimally with film because I know that the scanner I'm using is not going to be capturing the film fully. I looked at a Fomapan 100 darkroom print I'd taken 20 years ago and it was so fine compared to the scan when zooming in. As a youngster, I realised that when I took negatives to an auto lab to be printed they would look flat and grey, probably because of the automatic software presets of that machine (b&w hard shadows would result in drab mid tones in otherwise contrasty summer late noon images), when I printed in the darkroom using split grade and certain filters they'd look far better and closer to what I wanted. Lightroom is no different, great because it's in real time and the absence of laborious test strips. Still, no satisfaction of a luscious darkroom print. I'd love a LS-9000 though, just for medium format, I just can't fit it into the budget currently. Also, do you have any thoughts about the notion of 'grain aliasing' with scans. I shrugged the idea off when I first read about it, but when you think how much tonality is missed or reinterpreted during a scan in between a grey pixel block when you zoom in and a white or black square (or colour), it makes you scrutinize a bit more. After all, the analogue original has now become digital. Information is lost.
I thought you were actually going to talk about the scan process itself, not just plug the product. only 3 minutes out of 15 were about scanning negs... Don't want to be negative, I like your channel very much.
He does have a video titled "Scanning Negatives" where he does that. This one's take on Metadata, I thought was very relevant and useful information; I do also wish it could be applied to any camera. That would be killer.
This video is more of an overview for people who already understand the process and want tips to improve.
6 лет назад
If you're using old cameras with no meta data whatsoever, there are solutions like Exif Notes (Android) that enables you to register data like shutter speed, film type and all other types of meta data at the location (or later). The app will add the GPS data (if you do this on location) The next step is to run ExifTool on your PC to embed the meta data into the files, a very simple and automatic process. This might be too much work if you “spray and pray” with a 35mm, but if you're shooting MF or LF it can definitely be worth the extra two steps.
I use Silverfast to scan 35 mm film with my Reflecta Crystalscan 7200. This software has the option to save RAW-scans so that I can do all the adjustments in Photoshop.
Love your videos! Having a Notebook, being put together, running XP / Vista, which will run old software ie PaintShop Pro, Photo Impact, and an old scanner. Again thanks for the videos!
First, I liked seeing your cat. Second, thanks for expressing your opinion on scanning. I agree with you regarding scanning software. I use the Epson software with a Epson Perfection 2450. I sometimes wonder if I'm getting the best resolution that I can. I'm also experimenting with VueScan. I'm just not convinced that software makes any difference as far as bit depth and resolution is concerned. The hardware has limitations so the software doesn't have the full gamut to work with. There is only one lamp brightness in the scanner--at least mine. And the photoreceptor sensitivity and density is set in stone the best I can tell. I suspect that at the factory they set the scanner hardware to record the BRIGHTEST you can record vs. the DARKEST. Then it's out and into the software where you pick off what you want. I'd be great if you could control the intensity of the lamp and then do some sort of HDR with those large bit depth transparencies. Does anyone make anything like that?
+Digitized Chaos Hi--in case you're still interested in this topic, here's my two cents regarding scanning slides and getting consistent results: 1) Get an IT8 target, preferably on the film stock you use the most. 2) Calibrate your scanner every 3-4 weeks. 3) This unfortunately means you need to also invest in some scanner software that supports IT8 color calibration (I'm a SilverFast user, but I think VueScan offers this as well). 4) Opinions divert here, but I'm getting better results when scanning the emulsion side of the slide film; it is less glossy and therefore introduces less problems due to reflections. However, you need to flip the scanned image afterwards in order to have it properly oriented. 5) SilverFast allows for scanning in its proprietary RAW format (albeit the file extension is TIFF and you are able to open the file directly in Photoshop--but don't do any edits there, it is a nightmare). So if possible, scan in whatever RAW format your software allows you to do that; thus you can just scan the film and don't have to worry about adjustments, which need to be done on a per slide basis. 6) Since I use SilverFast AI Studio for scanning, I also use SilverFast HDR Studio (has nothing to do with HDR photos--they had this name long before HDR photos became popular) for editing the raw scans, as it can read the infrared channel of the scan to remove dust and scratches (this is hardware based scratch and dust removal; do not use software based SDR as this introduces a lot of softness to your scanned image). It also sports some nice auto-sharpening algorithms based on the scanner you used. You may still opt to do some final touch ups using PhotoShop or LightRoom once you have the raw image converted to a "regular image". 7) Make sure that along your scanning workflow each piece of software is set to use the proper color profile (otherwise calibrating your scanner is futile). And please, do not use sRGB as your color profile of choice for the resulting image--you'll lose a lot of tonality. So use some more advanced color profiles like Prophoto or Joseph Holmes' "Ekta Space", which I prefer for printing. Only when creating the JPG copy of the scanned images use the sRGB color profile; otherwise the majority of the people you're going to share your pics with won't be able to see some proper colors on whatever website you upload them for sharing. I'm using Photoshop's built in automation script for creating the JPGs out of the final TIFF files. If you are using a flatbed scanner (I'm using an Epson 4990 Photo flatbed scanner), make sure the film is totally flat, as it does not sport autofocus when scanning. I got some glass inserts for the film holder you probably saw in Ted's video. And you should find the sweet spot of your scanner regarding its focal plane; if the film plane is too low, you're lucky, as you can put something underneath the film holder (e.g. use some plain copy paper and cut it out in the shape of the film holder to support it entirely). Hope this is of any help. Cheers, Michael
The price point is pretty good considering the cost of an original ES-E1 cable from canon, I have a 1V and i would love to get the meta data from the camera.
Hi Ted. Thanks for the great videos. Can you discuss the trade-offs of scanning vs using a DLSR to digitize film. I seem to get better results with my DLSR vs my old scanner so I'm curious on your thoughts.
Hi Ted! I lately started with some film photography alongside my digital camera. I use lightroom for workflow and editing and i really love it! the problem is that i would like to add camera information (like: film type, camera name, basic shooting information) in the metadata of the scanned film. I've understood that there is a tool called Exiftool (by Phil Harvey), but if i recall correctly is a standalone program. Is there a plug-in for lightroom that you are aware of? What did you do before this program? Have you any advice? GREAT SHOW BTW!!!!
What type of cameras work with this? Also can you embed the metadata manually from your notes if you have a camera that doesn't save the .txt file like the f5?
+Zach Smith I'm looking for an answer to your first question. My guess for the answer is -- expensive ones. Late model film cameras that would embed this feature were not cheap. And not long afterwards, we had digital. For your second question, you can embed all the metadata you want from your notes after scanning and importing your pics into whatever software you use for cataloging (Lightroom, Bridge, Picasa, etc.). Update: Found at least a partial answer to your first q on which cameras... From Meta35's site --- www.meta35.com/cameras/ the Canon EOS 1V, Nikon F5, F6, F100, N90 and N90s, and the Minolta Maxxum 7 and 9.... there are probably others, but this is a good start
Very interesting video. Does anyone know how to prevent the Epson scan software to cut off the left and right part of the histogram? It always does that, and I need to correct this for every individual frame, which is very time demanding.
Ivan Lietaert I do the same thing. Histogram adjustment for every frame.. guh.. was sort of hoping this vid would give a glimpse into Ted's scan procedures including navigating the cumbersome EpsonScan. Probably not what 99% of AOP viewers are here for tho..
stark senap Supposedly radioactive lenses (like the aero-ektar) were just made with radioactive materials because of more lax regulations back then. I don't think there's much more to it.
stark senap Well, some of them have a yellowish tint that may affect color in color images, and add a little more contrast on b&w images, as far as I know. I have no first hand experience with them.
+Svett Menneske The yellow tint disappears after a couple of hours under UV light (sun or lamps) depending on how strong it is. The Thorium (radioactive) elements of the lens were used because they are less fragile. If you have a lens like the Aero Ektar that was built so huge (there are some that weigh multiple hundred kilograms) that's just needed. Contrary to popular belief the radiation isn't that bad; For the 178mm lens it's about twice the recommended yearly value per year.
I'm really considering getting a scanner, getting tired of juggling two labs. one for developing and a other for scanning. just not sure on the hole going about scanning part.
Hey Ted, Good video, really informative. I learnt something new today. Thank you. P.S, why do you pronounce nikon as "naikon", surely it should be pronounced "nick on".
Hi Ted, do you know what's the "Short term memory" of Nikon F5 / other compatible cameras? Meaning, if I shoot 7 consecutive rolls, and later scanned them, would it remember all the metadata from roll 1-7, or only the last roll? I hope that makes sense. Cheers!
+Nick Susatyo Just replied to someone else - if you use the MF28 back will all the extra data its about 10 rolls. Standard shooting info only is almost 80.
+Nick Susatyo you are prompted to name and store all the rolls on your computer when you download them in case you need them later. The software will ask if you want to keep them on the camera or not.
Very interesting! I bought the software (from abroad [Sweden], no problems at all). Yes I mentioned that I found out via your podcast. Question for you: Is there any setting I need to do on my Nikon in order for this to work? Or does the camera always keep the last filmroll in memory? What if I'm shooting, let's say 2 rolls of film, do I loose the first metadata when starting on the second roll? Is there a way I could extra t that metadata and save it for use later after I have scanned it? As you see, there where a couple of things you did not mention. Otherwise: great video! Keep up the good works!
+TheRobertSt it depends on what you're storing - basic data will give you almost 80 rolls in storage. If you use all the data from the Mf28 its down to 10. Camera will tell you when its full, you're prompted to clear the memory or save it when you're inside Meta35
+The Art of Photography Ok I'll have to wait for the software to arrive. Meanwhile my old truster Epson scanner died on me today. I will go out and buy the latent:Epson Perfection V550 tomorrow. Thanks for answering me so quickly.
Hi, does scanning degrade the image quality quite badly? It sounds quite scary because I would like to go into film from digital and I don't want to be giving crappy looking work to clients (I don't know how to develop and print from film as I heard it can destroy the image completely if you do it wrong)
I was kinda disapointed, lots of talk about the proggie, very, very few about scanning. Even something like preferred DPI didn't come to the table. on top, completely linked to the f5m which for the price(used) is a great cam bit doesn't have the matrix metering on vintage glass I think. Just my two cents.
I've just recently started using exiftool to save basic exif fields in my large format work. It's sort of a PITA but I hope that in the long run it will help as there is no way to relate negatives to those scrawled notes in my little ring-back notebooks. Here's an example on flickr - www.flickr.com/photos/harebaremi/20599096798/
Look for the program Analogexif. I don't have a USB port on my 85 year old Kodak folder. There is a mac version of the program but I don't know about PC. Not the most intuitive but gets the job done and free.
+noytheyah You can embed all the metadata you want after scanning and importing your pics into whatever software you use for cataloging (Lightroom, Bridge, Picasa, etc.). Like +thorleyphotography said below, carry pencil and paper with you and keep track of your setting while shooting.
Thanks, I was thinking about this just before this video came out and I thought I could just go into the file properties and add it that way but no luck. Ive been just adding abbreviated info into the filename but its such a pain.
Hi Ted, I noticed your scan software is outdated. I use Epson Perfection 4990 Photo scanner which came with a 4.0 Dmax as oppose to 3.8 on the model you currently have, and see no reason to upgrade at all, mainly because Epson provides tons of support (drivers and manuals repairs etc.) and secondly because I love the SilverFast Ai Studio 8 software that comes with it (I upgraded to this pro edition immediately), there is absolutely nothing better. Just make sure you have the latest and greatest and you'll be fine carrying on as you've always done. www.silverfast.com/show/silverfast-ai-studio-8/en.html
I don't have money for Hasselblad Flextight scanner,i don't want to take chanse with used,expensive Nikon Coolscan on the Craig's list.I do scanning with DSLR,Sigma macro lens and sturdy Kaiser Reprostand.(Mirror for the aligment) If I ever get offer to show my picture in the art gallery,i will pay someone to scan my film with drum scanner.(It will never happen) Flat bad scanner stinks!
+Broj 1 you have to use one before you make that judgement. I've had nice prints made from EPSON V750M scans, medium format film, and printed on very fine exhibition grade paper. Unless you're printing very large format it's hard to see a major difference. 16 inch square prints from a Hasseblad 6x6 neg look great.
Excellent video, Ted! Agreed on manually controlling everything rather than relying on software presets. Have you ever tried scanning with a digital camera? I wondered if you have an opinion on this. It's a cheap alternative if you already own a digital camera. To get the most out of it, it can take a bit more time than using a scanner. I get pretty good results with a Canon 7D and a macro lens. Raw files allow a lot of manual control over the results: www.flickr.com/photos/charlespkuntz/20337538611/in/dateposted-public/
Appreciate the heads up re META35 ! Have been dithering around for months wondering whether to jump onto the F5, this seals the deal Ted. Onya mate.
Mal
Oz
If you're using a film camera that doesn't contain a computer, you can get an app for your phone called PhotoExif.
You can input all of your camera and lens info, as well as what film you are using. Then, as you are taking pictures you can dial in the settings in the app and press the "Shutter" button and it records all of the metadata. After you scan your negatives you sync the images to the metadata. It's very simple and easy to use. The only downside is you have to remember to hit the button on the app after you shoot each photo. It can get tedious if you are shooting 35mm, but with medium and large format it's not a pain. I recommend it.
Oh shit I wish I knew about this sooner
Awesome! Thanks for this tip ;)
Great vids as usual. Re the F5 and Metadata35...with the nikon MF-28 data back attached and the clock set correctly, the F5 will also record the timestamp each image was shot. Then using Metdata35 it will recall that timestamp and embed that into the image metadata rather than the time and date you pulled the data from the camera.
Further, once you have the timestamp each image was taken stored inside the tiff file, you can then match this to the timestamp of any GPS data you might have recorded on a handheld GPS unit at the time you shot image....assuming the clock in the GPS is set to the same time as the clock in the MF-28 :-) I use a Garmin Epix strapped to my wrist for this.
Its a manual process to add the GPS data into the file using say, Lightroom, but at least you end up with a file with a decent set of metadata that has time/date/camera settings along with a mapable set of gps coordinates. But we're shooting film, so where's the rush, eh ?😎
By far ! the Best Utube channel on Photography . Thank You .
For metadata I use a program called exiftool by Phil Harvey. Manually enter the values that I have written in my notebook...
Great video Ted. Talk about timely, I just started using Meta35 with my Nikon F100 and Canon 1V and love it. I also just rescanned some negatives using your suggestions and they look great! Thank you so much for posting this!
More "photo lit" less gear please! Love the show always, but nothing beats learning about the greats and you've introduced me to so many. Keep em coming! Thanks Ted
Thank you for doing this series of videos, Having just developed and scanned my first rolls of film with a F100, I can see that I'm not to far off track.
Having fun with the film?
Welcome back, missed you!!
Yes I am enjoying film, still lots to learn.
I'm glad you found something you enjoy, Eric McWhirter . I used to like film, but not the expense.
It's not overly expensive, you defiantly have to be sure with your shots.
I always take lots of shots. Even back then with film.
I'm currently using a dedicated refurbished Coolscan LS-2000 (circa 2000) for the web. It cost about £130 in total ( I think I got lucky considering people are selling the SA20 adapters for over £100 alone on fleaBay) , but I have to use an old dedicated SCSI PCI Adaptec compatible, Windows XP PC for this. Orphaned tech I suppose, but I've been far happier with the results than any of the current flatbeds I've used.
On screen, they look quite faithful to the darkroom prints from the same negative. I scan in 'plain' and import them to Lightroom without adjustment. They will look flat and grey, but there are only one or two moves to bring out the punch of the negative much as I would do with exposure and filters in the darkroom. Using the scanning software and finalising the initial scan (via VueScan etc) seems limiting. I think of them as 'RAW' images. Lightroom, of course, didn't exist back then. So to me fiddling with the native scanning software is redundant since its release. I sharpen very minimally with film because I know that the scanner I'm using is not going to be capturing the film fully. I looked at a Fomapan 100 darkroom print I'd taken 20 years ago and it was so fine compared to the scan when zooming in.
As a youngster, I realised that when I took negatives to an auto lab to be printed they would look flat and grey, probably because of the automatic software presets of that machine (b&w hard shadows would result in drab mid tones in otherwise contrasty summer late noon images), when I printed in the darkroom using split grade and certain filters they'd look far better and closer to what I wanted. Lightroom is no different, great because it's in real time and the absence of laborious test strips. Still, no satisfaction of a luscious darkroom print.
I'd love a LS-9000 though, just for medium format, I just can't fit it into the budget currently.
Also, do you have any thoughts about the notion of 'grain aliasing' with scans. I shrugged the idea off when I first read about it, but when you think how much tonality is missed or reinterpreted during a scan in between a grey pixel block when you zoom in and a white or black square (or colour), it makes you scrutinize a bit more. After all, the analogue original has now become digital. Information is lost.
I thought you were actually going to talk about the scan process itself, not just plug the product. only 3 minutes out of 15 were about scanning negs...
Don't want to be negative, I like your channel very much.
He does have a video titled "Scanning Negatives" where he does that. This one's take on Metadata, I thought was very relevant and useful information; I do also wish it could be applied to any camera. That would be killer.
its a common thing on this channel...
This video is more of an overview for people who already understand the process and want tips to improve.
If you're using old cameras with no meta data whatsoever, there are solutions like Exif Notes (Android) that enables you to register data like shutter speed, film type and all other types of meta data at the location (or later). The app will add the GPS data (if you do this on location)
The next step is to run ExifTool on your PC to embed the meta data into the files, a very simple and automatic process.
This might be too much work if you “spray and pray” with a 35mm, but if you're shooting MF or LF it can definitely be worth the extra two steps.
Cool video ! I use a Reflecta CrystalScan 7200, it's not very expensive and the quality is quite good, but you have to advance each frame manually.
I have an old Epson v500 that i've had for years. Does just fine.
I use Silverfast to scan 35 mm film with my Reflecta Crystalscan 7200. This software has the option to save RAW-scans so that I can do all the adjustments in Photoshop.
Love your videos!
Having a Notebook, being put together, running XP / Vista, which will run old software ie PaintShop Pro, Photo Impact, and an old scanner.
Again thanks for the videos!
First, I liked seeing your cat. Second, thanks for expressing your opinion on scanning. I agree with you regarding scanning software. I use the Epson software with a Epson Perfection 2450. I sometimes wonder if I'm getting the best resolution that I can. I'm also experimenting with VueScan. I'm just not convinced that software makes any difference as far as bit depth and resolution is concerned. The hardware has limitations so the software doesn't have the full gamut to work with. There is only one lamp brightness in the scanner--at least mine. And the photoreceptor sensitivity and density is set in stone the best I can tell. I suspect that at the factory they set the scanner hardware to record the BRIGHTEST you can record vs. the DARKEST. Then it's out and into the software where you pick off what you want. I'd be great if you could control the intensity of the lamp and then do some sort of HDR with those large bit depth transparencies. Does anyone make anything like that?
any advice for consistent slide scans?
+Digitized Chaos Hi--in case you're still interested in this topic, here's my two cents regarding scanning slides and getting consistent results:
1) Get an IT8 target, preferably on the film stock you use the most.
2) Calibrate your scanner every 3-4 weeks.
3) This unfortunately means you need to also invest in some scanner software that supports IT8 color calibration (I'm a SilverFast user, but I think VueScan offers this as well).
4) Opinions divert here, but I'm getting better results when scanning the emulsion side of the slide film; it is less glossy and therefore introduces less problems due to reflections. However, you need to flip the scanned image afterwards in order to have it properly oriented.
5) SilverFast allows for scanning in its proprietary RAW format (albeit the file extension is TIFF and you are able to open the file directly in Photoshop--but don't do any edits there, it is a nightmare). So if possible, scan in whatever RAW format your software allows you to do that; thus you can just scan the film and don't have to worry about adjustments, which need to be done on a per slide basis.
6) Since I use SilverFast AI Studio for scanning, I also use SilverFast HDR Studio (has nothing to do with HDR photos--they had this name long before HDR photos became popular) for editing the raw scans, as it can read the infrared channel of the scan to remove dust and scratches (this is hardware based scratch and dust removal; do not use software based SDR as this introduces a lot of softness to your scanned image). It also sports some nice auto-sharpening algorithms based on the scanner you used.
You may still opt to do some final touch ups using PhotoShop or LightRoom once you have the raw image converted to a "regular image".
7) Make sure that along your scanning workflow each piece of software is set to use the proper color profile (otherwise calibrating your scanner is futile). And please, do not use sRGB as your color profile of choice for the resulting image--you'll lose a lot of tonality. So use some more advanced color profiles like Prophoto or Joseph Holmes' "Ekta Space", which I prefer for printing.
Only when creating the JPG copy of the scanned images use the sRGB color profile; otherwise the majority of the people you're going to share your pics with won't be able to see some proper colors on whatever website you upload them for sharing. I'm using Photoshop's built in automation script for creating the JPGs out of the final TIFF files.
If you are using a flatbed scanner (I'm using an Epson 4990 Photo flatbed scanner), make sure the film is totally flat, as it does not sport autofocus when scanning. I got some glass inserts for the film holder you probably saw in Ted's video. And you should find the sweet spot of your scanner regarding its focal plane; if the film plane is too low, you're lucky, as you can put something underneath the film holder (e.g. use some plain copy paper and cut it out in the shape of the film holder to support it entirely).
Hope this is of any help.
Cheers, Michael
Ted Thanks so much for sharing and appreciate all the great Videos can't tell you how much I enjoyed Deb.👍✌
Yes, cool video!! looks like the Meta35 works with my Nikon F100. Need to get it! Thanks for the video Ted!!
Ted, have you tried VueScan? It has all the power you needs and works with hundreds of scanners?
This was an ad for MetaData. . .MANY other photographers use VueScan and say it works very well.
@@BluesImprov You reponded to a video from FOUR YEARS AGO.
Thanks Ted!!! This is very interesting!
The price point is pretty good considering the cost of an original ES-E1 cable from canon, I have a 1V and i would love to get the meta data from the camera.
Can you do a video tutorial on the Nikon mf-23 databack for the Nikon F4s?
ohh they support Canon eos 1V too! So tempting~
I was wondering if you have scanned 8x10 B&W negatives. If so, do you fluid mount on the glass? Thanks...
Ted do you scan film as a service? How much do you charge per roll of 35mm BW film?
Hi Ted. Thanks for the great videos. Can you discuss the trade-offs of scanning vs using a DLSR to digitize film. I seem to get better results with my DLSR vs my old scanner so I'm curious on your thoughts.
Hi TEd... what camera do you use to make your videos ? Thxn
great video, congratulation i love it..., i have a question,, i have a nikon N90s the meta works with this camera?
Luis Velazquez no, the n90s is a much lower end camera that does not have that feature built into it. Only the f5 and f6 have that
Big fan of the show! I have the opportunity to jump on either a Nikon F100 or a Nikon F3, which would you suggest?
Hi Ted!
I lately started with some film photography alongside my digital camera.
I use lightroom for workflow and editing and i really love it!
the problem is that i would like to add camera information (like: film type, camera name, basic shooting information) in the metadata of the scanned film.
I've understood that there is a tool called Exiftool (by Phil Harvey), but if i recall correctly is a standalone program.
Is there a plug-in for lightroom that you are aware of?
What did you do before this program?
Have you any advice?
GREAT SHOW BTW!!!!
What type of cameras work with this? Also can you embed the metadata manually from your notes if you have a camera that doesn't save the .txt file like the f5?
+Zach Smith I'm looking for an answer to your first question. My guess for the answer is -- expensive ones. Late model film cameras that would embed this feature were not cheap. And not long afterwards, we had digital.
For your second question, you can embed all the metadata you want from your notes after scanning and importing your pics into whatever software you use for cataloging (Lightroom, Bridge, Picasa, etc.).
Update: Found at least a partial answer to your first q on which cameras... From Meta35's site --- www.meta35.com/cameras/ the Canon EOS 1V, Nikon F5, F6, F100, N90 and N90s, and the Minolta Maxxum 7 and 9.... there are probably others, but this is a good start
Great video! I have a F100 and would like to use Meta35. Does it work? Do I need this special back for it?
I use a Nikon coolscan v and it great but I want to get into medium format is the flatbed the best way for scanning medium format.
i use the Epson v550 and it works great
I love your directing and editing in your vids. Great info! Thanks!!!!!
Very interesting video.
Does anyone know how to prevent the Epson scan software to cut off the left and right part of the histogram? It always does that, and I need to correct this for every individual frame, which is very time demanding.
***** Thanks, I'll look into that next time I do some scanning!
Ivan Lietaert I do the same thing. Histogram adjustment for every frame.. guh.. was sort of hoping this vid would give a glimpse into Ted's scan procedures including navigating the cumbersome EpsonScan. Probably not what 99% of AOP viewers are here for tho..
Hi Ted, thanks for the video. I have an Epson V550, and just wondering if you have any experiences of using anti-Newton glasses with your scan?
Hi Ted, possible you can talk about radio active lenses? Cheers.
stark senap Supposedly radioactive lenses (like the aero-ektar) were just made with radioactive materials because of more lax regulations back then. I don't think there's much more to it.
stark senap Well, some of them have a yellowish tint that may affect color in color images, and add a little more contrast on b&w images, as far as I know. I have no first hand experience with them.
+Svett Menneske The yellow tint disappears after a couple of hours under UV light (sun or lamps) depending on how strong it is. The Thorium (radioactive) elements of the lens were used because they are less fragile. If you have a lens like the Aero Ektar that was built so huge (there are some that weigh multiple hundred kilograms) that's just needed. Contrary to popular belief the radiation isn't that bad; For the 178mm lens it's about twice the recommended yearly value per year.
hey please talk about metrics how to to outdoor photo shoots on nikon f5 with models polaroid is too expensive for proofing.
Have you up graded yet? What are you doing for MF/LF scans? keep up the good work
what 4x12 do you have? loaded with v30s? You're a guitar guy like me too.
I'm really considering getting a scanner, getting tired of juggling two labs. one for developing and a other for scanning. just not sure on the hole going about scanning part.
Was there a longer video on scanning? In the video, I see that you're putting a tray film holder. What is that?
Hey Ted,
Good video, really informative.
I learnt something new today.
Thank you.
P.S, why do you pronounce nikon as "naikon",
surely it should be pronounced "nick on".
+Jas Mann In the US, most people pronounce Nikon the way Ted does. In countries outside the US, "nick on" is more common.
Same a “zee” versus “zed”. It’s an American thing.
Hi Ted, do you know what's the "Short term memory" of Nikon F5 / other compatible cameras? Meaning, if I shoot 7 consecutive rolls, and later scanned them, would it remember all the metadata from roll 1-7, or only the last roll? I hope that makes sense. Cheers!
+Nick Susatyo Just replied to someone else - if you use the MF28 back will all the extra data its about 10 rolls. Standard shooting info only is almost 80.
+Nick Susatyo you are prompted to name and store all the rolls on your computer when you download them in case you need them later. The software will ask if you want to keep them on the camera or not.
if i scan it with a normal scanner will it turn out like that? i have a canon pixma 145
Very interesting! I bought the software (from abroad [Sweden], no problems at all). Yes I mentioned that I found out via your podcast. Question for you: Is there any setting I need to do on my Nikon in order for this to work? Or does the camera always keep the last filmroll in memory?
What if I'm shooting, let's say 2 rolls of film, do I loose the first metadata when starting on the second roll? Is there a way I could extra t that metadata and save it for use later after I have scanned it? As you see, there where a couple of things you did not mention. Otherwise: great video! Keep up the good works!
+TheRobertSt it depends on what you're storing - basic data will give you almost 80 rolls in storage. If you use all the data from the Mf28 its down to 10. Camera will tell you when its full, you're prompted to clear the memory or save it when you're inside Meta35
+The Art of Photography Ok I'll have to wait for the software to arrive. Meanwhile my old truster Epson scanner died on me today. I will go out and buy the latent:Epson Perfection V550 tomorrow.
Thanks for answering me so quickly.
I have the same scanner!
one day maybe could u do a video on printing in true digital black and white? Best printers and ideal paper
Gregory Crewdson please. (Although I'm sure you're already on that).
Nice!!!
Do I need that data back to get the meta data
Michael F5 nope
Hi, does scanning degrade the image quality quite badly? It sounds quite scary because I would like to go into film from digital and I don't want to be giving crappy looking work to clients (I don't know how to develop and print from film as I heard it can destroy the image completely if you do it wrong)
Why do you want to do this? You want to go from digital to film?
wow, a film Lightroom ! :)
I was kinda disapointed, lots of talk about the proggie, very, very few about scanning. Even something like preferred DPI didn't come to the table. on top, completely linked to the f5m which for the price(used) is a great cam bit doesn't have the matrix metering on vintage glass I think. Just my two cents.
He has another video called Scanning Negatives where he goes over DPI.
I can't have a 35mm only scanner I do 645 a bit.
I've just recently started using exiftool to save basic exif fields in my large format work. It's sort of a PITA but I hope that in the long run it will help as there is no way to relate negatives to those scrawled notes in my little ring-back notebooks. Here's an example on flickr - www.flickr.com/photos/harebaremi/20599096798/
How do you add metadata to images shot with old school cameras?
noytheyah Pencil and paper
Look for the program Analogexif. I don't have a USB port on my 85 year old Kodak folder. There is a mac version of the program but I don't know about PC. Not the most intuitive but gets the job done and free.
+noytheyah You can embed all the metadata you want after scanning and importing your pics into whatever software you use for cataloging (Lightroom, Bridge, Picasa, etc.). Like +thorleyphotography said below, carry pencil and paper with you and keep track of your setting while shooting.
Thanks, I was thinking about this just before this video came out and I thought I could just go into the file properties and add it that way but no luck. Ive been just adding abbreviated info into the filename but its such a pain.
Please tell us how you get metadata in LR? Maybe it's a new feature because I'm still using version 4.
Hi Ted, I noticed your scan software is outdated. I use Epson Perfection 4990 Photo scanner which came with a 4.0 Dmax as oppose to 3.8 on the model you currently have, and see no reason to upgrade at all, mainly because Epson provides tons of support (drivers and manuals repairs etc.) and secondly because I love the SilverFast Ai Studio 8 software that comes with it (I upgraded to this pro edition immediately), there is absolutely nothing better. Just make sure you have the latest and greatest and you'll be fine carrying on as you've always done.
www.silverfast.com/show/silverfast-ai-studio-8/en.html
Дякую!
I don't have money for Hasselblad Flextight scanner,i don't want to take chanse with used,expensive Nikon Coolscan on the Craig's list.I do scanning with DSLR,Sigma macro lens and sturdy Kaiser Reprostand.(Mirror for the aligment)
If I ever get offer to show my picture in the art gallery,i will pay someone to scan my film with drum scanner.(It will never happen)
Flat bad scanner stinks!
+Broj 1 you have to use one before you make that judgement. I've had nice prints made from EPSON V750M scans, medium format film, and printed on very fine exhibition grade paper. Unless you're printing very large format it's hard to see a major difference. 16 inch square prints from a Hasseblad 6x6 neg look great.
Excellent video, Ted! Agreed on manually controlling everything rather than relying on software presets. Have you ever tried scanning with a digital camera? I wondered if you have an opinion on this. It's a cheap alternative if you already own a digital camera. To get the most out of it, it can take a bit more time than using a scanner. I get pretty good results with a Canon 7D and a macro lens. Raw files allow a lot of manual control over the results:
www.flickr.com/photos/charlespkuntz/20337538611/in/dateposted-public/
An MS 20!
👍👍👍
you have a moog?? niccce!
one day maybe could u do a video on printing in true digital black and white? Best printers and ideal paper