Sweet! I'm loving this! Everyone is doing LS swaps but they all assume the viewers know all the details in what it takes. I'm going through my very first LS swap this year and these episodes will be SUPER helpful. Thank you for doing this!
The fix on those exhaust manifold bolts is 3 things: remflex gaskets (thicker and better for headers), anti-seize, and cheap grade 2 bolts that will stretch instead of snap. I run lock washers as well to add that spring action.
The Dirty Dingo mounts are KEY to saving a pile of messing around. Well worth the money. Hoses and wiring can be adjusted, engines and transmissions are just not forgiving. Dirty Dingo also makes some awesome brackets to relocate the truck accessories and change spacing to fit what you have in tight spots without buying more parts.
I enjoy the digs you and Morske share. He did a video with ol Puddin and now just waiting on y’all to do one. Then maybe getting all 3 of you together. Epic! Thanks for the content Dan!!
The main thing I love about this channel is that you do things the way the average person would do them with basic hand tools and good ole elbow grease. Your ability to make your own repairs versus sending everything out to a shop is exactly how it should be done. I have a feeling of accomplishment when I can make things happen without paying a shop to do it.
I've done almost a dozen LS swaps from mild to wild and the most expansive part is the fuel systems. You can bolt 'em in cheap with adaptor plates and for $14 you can use your SBC automatic but weather you're running a carb or injection that is where you will spend your money. I'm doing a 5.3 with a 700r4 in a '68 C10 right now and I used a $50 motor mount kit to mount the engine, raised it 1" and used the stock pan and it's even with the front crossmember, a 6 quart poor man's dry sump. I did cam the engine and replaced some worn rockers, replaced the pushrods and did a trunnion upgrade. I've got a lot of work arounds but the stock intake is the best for a street car under $800 for an intake. The stock PCM with a flash will support 500hp without a problem (there's not a 5.3 made that won't put out 375hp and with a mild cam you can add another 55-60hp on the top end if you think you need it). If you have time you can use a cut down stock harness also. For a fuel system a inline 255 LPH Walbro pump frame mounted with a '98 up Corvette filter/regulator ($50) will fuel the motor and provide a return line to the tank or filler neck. A 3/8" hardline dead headed up to the fuel rail completes the system, the filter/regulator will provide a steady 62 psi to the rail. Exhaust manifolds or headers can get a little pricy but sometimes the stock pieces will work with a little trimming. I love doing the work and coming up with different solutions, I think your on the right track. There is a lot of performance in an LS, even stock. A 6.0L in stock form with the Holley Terminator X or Fitech kit should get you over 400hp, quite the snappy ride in a Tri-Five and once you've done one they are not difficult.
Thank goodness there are so many rotted out 15 yr old GM trucks (that cost 40K+ back in the day) out there to give up their drivetrains! 😆 Have fun Dan--we'll all be watching you you crazy kid!
Very informative video young man. My LS experience is from a 98 Vette. Where I installed a Magnuson SC then over boosted the stock motor and cracked #7 cylinder sleeve. Ouch! the rebuild was then the LQ4 iron block my LS1 Crank and Heads with Mahle Pistons, H Beam Rods, Crane Valve Gear and cam with the Magnuson upgraded to Intercooler. That engine build was paid for as I did not want to risk my skills, We ended up about 550 HP with headers and Water Meth injection. The Engine was bullet proof and would roar like Drag Car. Pulled to 6,500 real strong but flatten out pretty quick. Then Clutch, Tranny needed beefing up. I already had 3.7 Gear so the 1-2 shaft came up real fast. As the Corvette hit 140,000 miles the engine was still quite strong but i found a 2007 Ron Fellows I wanted so we made a deal and it moved on. The LS engine is a real strong piece of kit and i appreciate all the LS swaps. The tuning is the tricky part and i had a great tuner that really pulled the power out but left it safe and sane for the long run. Good luck I understand the rationale and think you on the right track for a good utility cruiser.
"If Mortske can do it anyone can.." I foresaw something like this when he mentioned you during the body work segment of his last video.. 😉 Great content as always 👌
ATTENTION DAN- First I actually watched this video last night just after it was produced! As an old school guy who grew up in the 1970s, graduated in the early 1980s, I HATE all these LS Swaps for a number of reasons!! And I would like to outline a couple here!! 1) Back in the 1950s and throughout the early 1980s parts were made out of this materials LS motors don't use in some cases!! That said those materials were known as METAL, and all the plastic parts on an LS motor wear out, even things that should NOT wear out, like plastic thermostat housings and pulleys! 2) While the modern motor does have parts available there are many places that still stock OLD PARTS as well, and a standard alternator on a 1970 to early 1980s car or truck for example ONLY COSTS around $45 to replace, where anything after 1990 costs $300 to replace, if they go bad! 3) Old cars don't require all the electronics newer LS motors require, SO in many cases you can run an old car, even if the battery is completely spent, as long as the alternator is working!! This is especially true in Chevys with HEI, or Fords and their Dura Spark boxes in the early 1980s! And I have run a lot of old cars on nothing BUT the alternator while I didn't have a decent battery to even start it! 4) A lot of guys these days seem "lazy" because they don't want to, or in some cases don't know how, to set up a carburetor or point type ignition system! And realistically, HEI and Dura Spark, isn't as bad to operate, because it either works and works good or it doesn't! And in most cases a part swap of simple parts, WILL fix most early electronic ignitions! Likewise too, YOU can buy fuel injection kits for older engines including the 1966 inline six you yanked out of the Chevy Biscayne!! There are even conversion kits to put HEI in those older motors as well!! PLUS you don't have to rip out all the basic wiring in an old car, to get them to run an LS motor!! And the wiring in old cars so basic, and simple that repairing it or adding to it is a ZERO BRAIN OPERATION in many cases!! 5) And lastly, some guys like myself think it is cool watching an LS swap take place, BUT we long for things that were much "simpler"! And a lot of old cars were great because of how simple they were to fix, work on and tinker with!! You didn't need a degree in computer science, to run them, and you could fix basically EVERYTHING with a 9/16 inch wrench and a Phillips head screw driver!! And many of the LS systems just over complicate what used to be just "easy to fix" in a lot of ways!! Trust me I have chase my share of "Wiring Gremlins" in a 1999 Ford F-150 and a 1996 Dodge Caravan, some times you are better off, just dumping that car on some other sucker, then it is to fix it!!!!! Especially if you are like me and DO NOT OWN A SHOP and you are working on your car in 3 feet of snow in your driveway during a New York Winter!!! It gets old trying to "find the short" when it is 19 degrees below zero out, and you can't feel your finger tips!!
1. Irrelevant, they sell metal versions of these and they are cheap to replace if they do go out . 2. Wrong, alternators aren't that expensive for basic ones. For high output sure, but that's true for alternators for old cars too. 3. You can run LS engines on bare basics like you can in an old car. 4. You don't have to rip out anything? You clearly have never done the swap. You only need 5 wires to make an LS run. 5. Yeah you aren't a builder, you can have simple LS and all you have to do is get the vats deleted from a service for 40 bucks. The rest isn't needed. A build starts getting complicated if you start throwing performance parts but this is for any build Your comment stinks of scared boomer who doesn't know what he's talking about. Maybe stick to watching videos instead of making a fool of yourself in the comments.
Its okay to fear what you don't know lol. I used to think a carbed small block was where it was at years ago too... times change. And no carbed small block will live as long and trouble free as any LS... that's a fact.. like a lot of modern engines.
If you let everything cool before putting a wrench on that welded nut it will come out easier. Heat expands it to break it loose, then when it cools comes right out
Put a set of coil covers on your ls and it looks like an old school small block also you can drill one hole in the pulley to access the 3 bolts to remove the ps pump and its still usable if you want to put it back on later it doesn't hurt the structure integrity of the pulley
Like a few people mentioned, a sheet metal intake and BBC style cool covers are a relatively inexpensive way to make an LS look a lot better when swapping. But of trimming for the alternator bracket and they fit up nice.
Those sheet metal intakes are terrible, especially if he leaves 317 heads on there with 9.4:1 compression, you'll lose 30lb/ft of TQ because the runner length will be too short and it might even lose 10hp up top. The newer truck intakes are like $100 and they pick up a good 15-20hp and are the best factory Cathedral port intake, he will need a 92mm 4 bolt throttle body but, that's no big deal they cost $90 on ebay. He really needs a set of 862/706 heads to pick up 1.2:1 compression ratio and getting him up to 10.6:1 and while he is doing that he should use a 0.039 or 0.027" head gasket instead of a 0.051" stock to add another 0.4-0.7:1 compression, putting him at 11-11.3:1. That would be perfect for a $120 Elgin 228/230 or better yet a 238/242 cam, then PAC 1218 or Comp 918 springs and 1.75-3" headers, a good 3600 stall and he'll really be cooking. That combo on E85 would get him the most TQ possible with a dished piston 6.0 with factory heads, factory intake manifold, still run on 91-91 Oct, he'll still have well over 500hp, possibly as much as 550hp and on the best budget HP/$. Rectangle port heads make lots of HP but, they are limited by piston to valve clearance and they lose tons of TQ in the mid range, the 706 heads allow a cam with at least 10 degrees more intake duration, have significantly more compression and will get within 10-15 HP at the peak with only 500-800 rpms at the very top where they might make less hp while having 15-25 more lbs/ft of TQ for 1500-1800 rpms in the mid range. The only better way to make HP/$ with an LS is to just turbocharge it out of the gate and start with a cheaper 4.8 or 5.3.
If you ever put PS back in it, put a slotted pulley on it. Don't forget antisieze on everything. Now you've got me wanting to go out and LS swap something else. The aluminum brightener from napa will make the parts look good...it does etch so be ready to wash it off. I know those oil pan gaskets are nice, but where the front and rear covers meet up, i always use a tiny amount of black rtv to catch that seam. For the holley, you need to know your reluctor count...24 or 58. The pickup on the back top of the block that points back, not up. Black is the 24 tooth, Tan/grey is the 58 tooth. Gen 3 are all black, Gen 4 are all tan. Gen 3 don't have VVT and you'll see that you have no sensor in the timing cover plate.
Gen 3 don't have VVT. I know you likely know that but you are trying to educate and put 4 instead lol. Aluminum brightener works but it's awful to deal with lol. It took like 6 hours of scrubbing, wire wheeling and brightener to make my L33 look nice again lol
@@StevenAndrews No, it just burns the skin nicely. It wouldn't touch the corrosion on the block until I wire wheeled everything first... then it was slow as hell. We have some stuff at the shop that makes aluminum look new again... its aggressive as hell and I wouldn't dare get it on your skin lol. Dunk it forget it for a few hours and wash it off... looks like new
If you're building with power tour in mind you might reconsider that ac compressor, if it'll fit in the car. Options out there for putting air in a tri five.
I started my channel doing the most budget swaps on RUclips (to my knowledge) was doing running and driving turbo foxbody for 2k or less and never got the views for me to keep the motivation. Thankfully you're already set and this will be a epic setup!!
I Bought me a little Silverado with an extended cab , it looks to be a cherry one in which the owner was a dear grandpa using it to make his haircut trips in , I hope to keep it simply to follow the legions of old run of the mill good olde maintenanced mechanicals through its next 5 year tour , Then when it’s time, give it all the grand work . Your a good mechanic with patience, watching the head bolt removal was like watching a surgeon in mid operation go into a story of calming Cardom . Learned me something . To let you know what your audience already has gathered , Its a master class when a teacher shows his revealed flaws that you may encounter under the execution of a job , the secret to a good channel , you have that easy neighborly chat quality in similar fashion with Vise Grip Garage and Derek .Ill Keep your channel in tune , the old ways will never ever grow tyresom.
hey dd man good choice with the ls! my 83 chevy k10 is running everything from the factory except the motor the stock ecu from the 02 chevy 1500 worked great the software to flash it was free (pcm hammer) and (tuner pro) pretty easy to use depending on ur pcm but all in i have probably 1800 in my swap and it runs fantastic if you want videos of how i did it all let me know!
The stock 317 heads along with an early truck w/78mm tb or car intake are so bad on a dished piston 6.0 you wouldn't be able to tell a difference between that and a flat top 5.3 with 706s, a TBSS intake w/90-92mm TB. Either engine with a cam, headers, tuned up is going to feel the exact same on the street. The secret is using 706 heads(with thinner head gaskets 0.027"), tbss/NBS intake, 92mm TB on a dished piston 6.0. That would give you 1.9:1 more compression, better ports that make more power, the best factory Cathedral port intake, will make a big cam feel good and when you run a flex fuel sensor you'll make a good 15-20TQ in the middle.
I bought a puller/installer tool for 45$ last summer. Tired of not having the tools to do the job. I am far from Rich that's for sure. Tool does Chevy/ford etc. I went from serpentine belt to the old v-groove belt in truck restoring 88 GMC half ton. Went from 305 fuel injection to 350 carved and kept getting belt squeal and removed that huge plate off of front and decided to go back to old school way with v-groove belts.
You could run that with a TH400, people do it all the time. If you're not allergic to buying higher octane fuel, I would recommend this. Get a set of 706 heads, especially for a big heavy car that you are going to drive in the street. Those heads will increase the compression ration from 9.4:1 up to 10.6:1 on their own, then I would use a 0.027" head gasket when reassembling it, that will put you at 11.3:1 compression ratio. From there I would used an Elgin 238/242 cam, PAC 1218 or Comp 918 springs, 1.75"-3" long tube headers, a NBS/TBSS intake manifold, maybe use a flex fuel sensor for E85 if it's available and you'll be well over 500hp and you'll have TONS of TQ in the mid range and it will still be safe for 91-93 Oct gas.
Quick note, I don't think that is a Holley 302-# pan (I don't believe Holley comes with a gasket and the Holley pan doesn't indent at the bolts like that). I am speaking from experience because I went with the old PW pan (because it looked close enough) and ended up having to get the proper Holley pan. It may still work for your application but I know my particular setup caused issues. Loving the content BTW.
Get a bottle of liquid Maalox anti-acid, and before you thread, the steel bolts back into the aluminum heads, coat the threads with Maalox, it will keep the threads from seizing it’s an old airplane mechanic trick
It's not cheap, but they sell kits to make a LS look like 57-65 fuel injected 327 or a 3x2bbl 427. They are on display at Summit Racing Tallmage OH store. Also, my turbo 6.0 4l80e with 3.73s on a 9x28 tire got 23-26mpg at 70mph on gasoline. Depending on air temperature and elevation
DD, it's so funny watching you extract a bolt that you heated up to take out. I couldn't believe you were trying to take out the bolt when it was red hot and soft. Of course it broke off because the metal molecules haven't cooled enough for strength yet. I put my hand over my eyes watching you fail with these bolts and doing a poor job extracting them out. You do decent work on the other things but this one, you need patience grasshopper.
@@stephenh.bunkybyrd2024 yeah you're comparing a leak at an auxiliary point on the top of the engine to a leak at the oil pump. You might as well compare the rubber gromits on the valve cover leaking to it too 🤣
The last 6.0 I swapped had several broken manifold bolts, I got all ready to do a vide on extracting them, but then they all spun out without even a visegrip. I was miffed at all the others I fought with, and sad I couldn't show how to do all of it on messed up parts. I do it different, buy the entire truck, pull all the parts I will need to stuff the engine in an older truck, or to put a 6.0 in a 1500 Silverado, then scrap the rest. I also use those trucks as winter beaters, so I need parts for them, so the better ones hang around for parts. If its completely stock parts, its dirt cheap considering new car parts are more expensive than old car parts. If you want reliable power and you have an sbc, the LS is a good upgrade. It cost me more to put vortec heads on a $500 sbc 400 short block than it does to rebuild a Pontiac with all new stuff. Nickle and dime you to death, and then it is a pooch. Been watching a few channels that swapped 5.3s into their old cars, like a G body Malibu, and then they take it to the track and it runs 15s to high 14s. I simply can't spend that much money to go that slow. If I spend $3k on an engine, it better run low 12s to high 11s in a stock weight car without a power adder. For daily driver late model stuff, yeah I like em. I do not consider them fast, but you can throw a lot of boost at them for a while. Thats why I like the LS for trucks, the 6.0 has decent power for a truck. The 07 1500 crew cab got one, the Escalade came with one, the 76 and 80 C10s are getting them, and so is the 88 C1500.
I put the motor sideways on the engine stand and drill a hole in the middle of the stud before I weld the nut to it, it seems to flow the weld down and heat the entire stud frees it up the first shot in my experience
Dan normally that other knob on the throttle is for a Cruise control and you need to get your angel of the dangle right for a 700R4 type TV cable. The travel of that TV cable adapter is not linear to the movement of throttle cable from what I recall. If you are up for a few dollars more check into Bowtie overdrives for the proper adapter that just attaches for that TV cable
A free but small LS clean up I learned from another swap video was to remove the ugly oil fill elbow from the Pass valve cover and then just take the fill cap and screw it back on the valve cover. One little ugly piece gone. OOPS, should have known you already knew that after seeing the end of the video. Well played!
99-02 dbc, 03-07 dbw. gen 4 07.5+ or 2005 yukon/envoy. usually the stock 99-02 cable works in most gm stuff. holley oil pan is close to the f body ls pan (98+) which i think you can get a little cheaper. MAKE SURE U HAVE THE CORRECT PICKUP TUBE O RING. Big deal if you want oil pressure. Dirty dingo is good for most mounts. Jegs has a flexplate chart per what transmission etc you want. I usually do ebay gaskets + 1 stick of rtv if its a real tight budget. cam retainer plate is a good thing to replace while youre in there. stock oil pumps fine unless youre going boosted youll starve your motor of oil with to big of a pump. double chain is not needed. you can bolt the car water pump if needed depending on your radiator routing. hope some of this info helps someone. Ive done these between $0 and $20k now. 1999 6.0s have a long crank except for manual option trucks, (you wouldnt really want this unless using the auto from the same truck). 4.8s/5.3s usually have dished plates, but i have seen them on 6.0 / vise versa. I dab the corners of the pan with rtv. make sure you align the rear timing cover with oil pan properly or there is a chance it will crack. front and real main covers with new seals can be bought for $40-50each. your holley should be 24x tooth dbc with multec 2 if stock truck. max is only needed if electric trans
ill add if you have a 4.8/5.3 with 706 heads id recommend getting them tested or swapped if they have a little battery icon, they are prone to cracking around bolt holes. you're also suppose to replace head bolts when changing head gaskets (TTY) and run mls headgaskets and exhaust flange gaskets (i use felpro) if you don't want them to leak. or the cheap gasket you get with your $80 eBay headers with a full sleeve of rtv lol. be careful with knock sensors or replace them bc they'll usually fall apart. its in service index to seal around the grommet due to water getting down in them. I believe they're 15 ftlbs. as far as exhaust bolts i usually run the arp bolts.
Not even remotely close. Then you can't tune anyway so you run out and pay a tuner for the Holley anyway...because unless its stock that autotune is a joke lol
Are LS's ugly? Yes. Are they boring? Also yes. But MAN they are fun to drive lol nothing like a stock motor making 330hp before you do anything to it and still be able to get something resembling mpg lol The 1980 Camaro I swapped a 5.3 in with a mild cam and exhaust was such a blast to drive. Cruised like grandmas bingo bomber, but you give it some beans and it would do hellacious burnouts. With a TH350 and 3.23's it was getting 18-20mpg. Probably could've gotten better than that if the smoke would stay in the damn tires lol
If you need an upper radiator hose get one for a 2012 Chevy/GMC van with an LS (I’m sure there are several years that are the same), but I route’s the water from the upper neck to the drivers side radiator inlet.
I tried the "weld a nut on " approach to removing a broke manifold collector stud. The stud just broke farther in every time I redid it. Maybe this works with aluminum heads but cast iron collector didn't get the job done. Use stainless steel bolts and you won't have this problem again.
Great video. LOVE how you guys all dish on each other. Mortske just made a little dig on you the other day, and he hits on Puddin all the time. Can't wait to see this in the FiveSix!
My next project after the Mustang is done is a 78 Monte Carlo. Currently it has no drivetrain at all so I'm hoping to find an LS to throw in it, even a 4.8 would work for me as I'm not looking for a ton of power.
low buck DIY guys get a micro squirt, easy to do and works just to run the engine. yes there are better systems but if you are not going digital dash and all that it works. The holley stuff is great for sure, have a sniper unit on my BBC in my 78 Malibu. For my 1994 camaro and my subaru swapped VW baja I went micro squirt. I have a v6 for now in the 94 but wanted to use it as a test for tuning with the software for the micro squirt. I will go LS later in it once I have the money and find a good LS engine.
Are you familiar with the adapter brackets that allow you to use sbc valve covers as cosmetic coil covers on an LS? Keep the coils in stock LS position, but hide them under your favorite sbc valve covers. Spruce up the motor a bit. I think they are neat. My best friend thinks they are insanely stupid. Not sure which side of the fence you might fall on
Why bother with stuff like that when he's running 317 heads and an early truck intake still...there are lots of thing that would be a better use of his money that would pay off with HP and TQ than cosmetic stuff.
I know that your friend Brent just sorts out a few wires, saves everything he needs from the doner rig and bam, did done. Or your cousin Richard DeBoss spent enough money to take the queen out for dinner to make a LS engine look like a 350 old school engine. My take is if you were to paint a turn to look like a steak, it would still taste like a turd so why blow the money. Its quite overwhelming to sort all the wiring off of the engine on the ls engines but really worth the time because that computer part comes off whole and the part to the gauge section is easy enough when your only using four wires out of it using the pin remover and just remove all, use the wires you will need by the color code and in their respected holes. I know if I can do it Dan that you can... John just brought over the stuff he wanted untangled and thats just what i did. I have used cement stripper to clean up aluminum fairly nice and truck drivers love their aluminum rims..... that said, they only look new for a maybe three months and then covered in brake dust, road grime an other stuff. There is some stuff out in a can that you mix with water, use a bottle brush to just smear it around, and just hose it off. its that easy i swear on my moms grave! I seen with these two old eyes wheels that looked really bad come super clean in say ten minutes with no scrubbing
I TOTALLY AGREE. my Ls swap engine itself was cheap, only 450 cdn$ for complete running 5.3L Ls that did have double the Hp the stock 305 BUT by time i converted all the different hookups i had spent several thousand that couldve bought a new 300Hp Crate SBC and it wouldve dropped right in over a weekend instead of 2-3 months of fabbing things together.
This is going to be sweet! That piece your looking at for kick down is for cruise control. I love the LS stuff but I am like you I have every shape and sized small block stuff.
My $0.02, while it's out anyway put a better cam in it. I like the BTR Truck Norris cam kit, should have come with these cam specs from the factory. Keep up the good work 👍
Or you know... any other small duration cam that's been made for the last 20 years. All the Truck Norris does better is idle like garbage lol... which appeals to a lot of people lol. Dan would love the truck Norris though... tiny camshaft that thumps and sounds "good" lol. It's a 6 liter.. you can run a bigger cam that actually thumps for a reason and keep your low end decent while making more power everywhere else
A lot of mechanics use 4 wheel carts for each job w mag trays for different bolts they have tools for the job side mounted trays for lubes hope it helps you
Looking good. Exhaust manifold bolts can put up a struggle in aluminum heads just as the second gen LT1’s. Can’t remember if you took the spark plugs out. Better do that now while it’s on the stand. Other than that it’s all good.
If the motor is broken and the whole swap is cheaper than sourcing a new one id do it. Maybe some kind of nice Pontiac engine or Mopar but I love me a Chevy 350 :)
Acdelco MLS stock exhaust manifold gaskets are the best header gaskets I've found. Cheap at the GM dealer and I have reused them multiple times with headers and exh manifolds on my turbo set up 👍👍lol with Dorman exh manifold bolts with Permatex ceramic extreme brake parts lubricant on the threads. Haven't broken a bolt since.
Factory Ferris metal bolts and Aluminum heads mating together cause electrolysis. This is due to the Ferris and Aluminum metals having a different electrical charge. This difference in charge basically welds the different metals together. Stainless Steel bolts have a very, very similar electrical charge to Aluminum. This similar charge limits electrolysis to near zero. Use Stainless Steel bolts on LS exhaust manifolds/headers and breakage will be non-existent.
LS swapping is easy power but it’s not tunnel ram or blower sticking out the hood cool. Trust me LS motors build some serious power that’s for sure. That LS will make a nice cruiser out of that old ride 👍.
We're just having fun here - "If you take stuff too serious this channel may not be for you Buddy" -
Ole Puddin is entertaining.
@@iannorton4463 Put it where the sun don't shine fella
Sweet! I'm loving this! Everyone is doing LS swaps but they all assume the viewers know all the details in what it takes. I'm going through my very first LS swap this year and these episodes will be SUPER helpful. Thank you for doing this!
It’s good to see all you RUclipsrs putting in our asses you get to see how each person does it pretty cool you’re doing a fantastic job Dan Dan
The fix on those exhaust manifold bolts is 3 things: remflex gaskets (thicker and better for headers), anti-seize, and cheap grade 2 bolts that will stretch instead of snap. I run lock washers as well to add that spring action.
The Dirty Dingo mounts are KEY to saving a pile of messing around. Well worth the money. Hoses and wiring can be adjusted, engines and transmissions are just not forgiving. Dirty Dingo also makes some awesome brackets to relocate the truck accessories and change spacing to fit what you have in tight spots without buying more parts.
X2 on dirty dingo! They make alot of swap parts that make things very simple.
Unfortunately not everyone has a Chevy or something they carry parts for
I enjoy the digs you and Morske share. He did a video with ol Puddin and now just waiting on y’all to do one. Then maybe getting all 3 of you together. Epic! Thanks for the content Dan!!
wondered what that snark about good ole Mortsky was about - he always figures stuff out just doesn't fix it usually 😆
The main thing I love about this channel is that you do things the way the average person would do them with basic hand tools and good ole elbow grease. Your ability to make your own repairs versus sending everything out to a shop is exactly how it should be done. I have a feeling of accomplishment when I can make things happen without paying a shop to do it.
I've done almost a dozen LS swaps from mild to wild and the most expansive part is the fuel systems. You can bolt 'em in cheap with adaptor plates and for $14 you can use your SBC automatic but weather you're running a carb or injection that is where you will spend your money. I'm doing a 5.3 with a 700r4 in a '68 C10 right now and I used a $50 motor mount kit to mount the engine, raised it 1" and used the stock pan and it's even with the front crossmember, a 6 quart poor man's dry sump. I did cam the engine and replaced some worn rockers, replaced the pushrods and did a trunnion upgrade. I've got a lot of work arounds but the stock intake is the best for a street car under $800 for an intake. The stock PCM with a flash will support 500hp without a problem (there's not a 5.3 made that won't put out 375hp and with a mild cam you can add another 55-60hp on the top end if you think you need it). If you have time you can use a cut down stock harness also. For a fuel system a inline 255 LPH Walbro pump frame mounted with a '98 up Corvette filter/regulator ($50) will fuel the motor and provide a return line to the tank or filler neck. A 3/8" hardline dead headed up to the fuel rail completes the system, the filter/regulator will provide a steady 62 psi to the rail. Exhaust manifolds or headers can get a little pricy but sometimes the stock pieces will work with a little trimming. I love doing the work and coming up with different solutions, I think your on the right track. There is a lot of performance in an LS, even stock. A 6.0L in stock form with the Holley Terminator X or Fitech kit should get you over 400hp, quite the snappy ride in a Tri-Five and once you've done one they are not difficult.
Thank goodness there are so many rotted out 15 yr old GM trucks (that cost 40K+ back in the day) out there to give up their drivetrains! 😆 Have fun Dan--we'll all be watching you you crazy kid!
Very informative video young man. My LS experience is from a 98 Vette. Where I installed a Magnuson SC then over boosted the stock motor and cracked #7 cylinder sleeve. Ouch! the rebuild was then the LQ4 iron block my LS1 Crank and Heads with Mahle Pistons, H Beam Rods, Crane Valve Gear and cam with the Magnuson upgraded to Intercooler. That engine build was paid for as I did not want to risk my skills, We ended up about 550 HP with headers and Water Meth injection. The Engine was bullet proof and would roar like Drag Car. Pulled to 6,500 real strong but flatten out pretty quick. Then Clutch, Tranny needed beefing up. I already had 3.7 Gear so the 1-2 shaft came up real fast. As the Corvette hit 140,000 miles the engine was still quite strong but i found a 2007 Ron Fellows I wanted so we made a deal and it moved on. The LS engine is a real strong piece of kit and i appreciate all the LS swaps. The tuning is the tricky part and i had a great tuner that really pulled the power out but left it safe and sane for the long run. Good luck I understand the rationale and think you on the right track for a good utility cruiser.
Putting a little too much faith in a ratchet strap my friend. I know how my luck goes..
Good information! Planning to ls something before i die…
Dan needs to put a cam in a LS and hear some chop and he will think they sound cool. plus they are all Roller engines so no flat comp scams issues.
"If Mortske can do it anyone can.." I foresaw something like this when he mentioned you during the body work segment of his last video.. 😉 Great content as always 👌
ATTENTION DAN- First I actually watched this video last night just after it was produced! As an old school guy who grew up in the 1970s, graduated in the early 1980s, I HATE all these LS Swaps for a number of reasons!! And I would like to outline a couple here!!
1) Back in the 1950s and throughout the early 1980s parts were made out of this materials LS motors don't use in some cases!! That said those materials were known as METAL, and all the plastic parts on an LS motor wear out, even things that should NOT wear out, like plastic thermostat housings and pulleys!
2) While the modern motor does have parts available there are many places that still stock OLD PARTS as well, and a standard alternator on a 1970 to early 1980s car or truck for example ONLY COSTS around $45 to replace, where anything after 1990 costs $300 to replace, if they go bad!
3) Old cars don't require all the electronics newer LS motors require, SO in many cases you can run an old car, even if the battery is completely spent, as long as the alternator is working!! This is especially true in Chevys with HEI, or Fords and their Dura Spark boxes in the early 1980s! And I have run a lot of old cars on nothing BUT the alternator while I didn't have a decent battery to even start it!
4) A lot of guys these days seem "lazy" because they don't want to, or in some cases don't know how, to set up a carburetor or point type ignition system! And realistically, HEI and Dura Spark, isn't as bad to operate, because it either works and works good or it doesn't! And in most cases a part swap of simple parts, WILL fix most early electronic ignitions! Likewise too, YOU can buy fuel injection kits for older engines including the 1966 inline six you yanked out of the Chevy Biscayne!! There are even conversion kits to put HEI in those older motors as well!! PLUS you don't have to rip out all the basic wiring in an old car, to get them to run an LS motor!! And the wiring in old cars so basic, and simple that repairing it or adding to it is a ZERO BRAIN OPERATION in many cases!!
5) And lastly, some guys like myself think it is cool watching an LS swap take place, BUT we long for things that were much "simpler"! And a lot of old cars were great because of how simple they were to fix, work on and tinker with!! You didn't need a degree in computer science, to run them, and you could fix basically EVERYTHING with a 9/16 inch wrench and a Phillips head screw driver!! And many of the LS systems just over complicate what used to be just "easy to fix" in a lot of ways!! Trust me I have chase my share of "Wiring Gremlins" in a 1999 Ford F-150 and a 1996 Dodge Caravan, some times you are better off, just dumping that car on some other sucker, then it is to fix it!!!!! Especially if you are like me and DO NOT OWN A SHOP and you are working on your car in 3 feet of snow in your driveway during a New York Winter!!! It gets old trying to "find the short" when it is 19 degrees below zero out, and you can't feel your finger tips!!
1. Irrelevant, they sell metal versions of these and they are cheap to replace if they do go out .
2. Wrong, alternators aren't that expensive for basic ones. For high output sure, but that's true for alternators for old cars too.
3. You can run LS engines on bare basics like you can in an old car.
4. You don't have to rip out anything? You clearly have never done the swap. You only need 5 wires to make an LS run.
5. Yeah you aren't a builder, you can have simple LS and all you have to do is get the vats deleted from a service for 40 bucks. The rest isn't needed. A build starts getting complicated if you start throwing performance parts but this is for any build
Your comment stinks of scared boomer who doesn't know what he's talking about. Maybe stick to watching videos instead of making a fool of yourself in the comments.
Its okay to fear what you don't know lol. I used to think a carbed small block was where it was at years ago too... times change. And no carbed small block will live as long and trouble free as any LS... that's a fact.. like a lot of modern engines.
If you let everything cool before putting a wrench on that welded nut it will come out easier. Heat expands it to break it loose, then when it cools comes right out
Or spray it with water, I have used that method to get brake bleeders loose. heat and fast cooling works great.
Put a set of coil covers on your ls and it looks like an old school small block also you can drill one hole in the pulley to access the 3 bolts to remove the ps pump and its still usable if you want to put it back on later it doesn't hurt the structure integrity of the pulley
I found a pulley that was a 5 spoke off a truck rather than solid .
Like a few people mentioned, a sheet metal intake and BBC style cool covers are a relatively inexpensive way to make an LS look a lot better when swapping.
But of trimming for the alternator bracket and they fit up nice.
Those sheet metal intakes are terrible, especially if he leaves 317 heads on there with 9.4:1 compression, you'll lose 30lb/ft of TQ because the runner length will be too short and it might even lose 10hp up top. The newer truck intakes are like $100 and they pick up a good 15-20hp and are the best factory Cathedral port intake, he will need a 92mm 4 bolt throttle body but, that's no big deal they cost $90 on ebay. He really needs a set of 862/706 heads to pick up 1.2:1 compression ratio and getting him up to 10.6:1 and while he is doing that he should use a 0.039 or 0.027" head gasket instead of a 0.051" stock to add another 0.4-0.7:1 compression, putting him at 11-11.3:1. That would be perfect for a $120 Elgin 228/230 or better yet a 238/242 cam, then PAC 1218 or Comp 918 springs and 1.75-3" headers, a good 3600 stall and he'll really be cooking. That combo on E85 would get him the most TQ possible with a dished piston 6.0 with factory heads, factory intake manifold, still run on 91-91 Oct, he'll still have well over 500hp, possibly as much as 550hp and on the best budget HP/$. Rectangle port heads make lots of HP but, they are limited by piston to valve clearance and they lose tons of TQ in the mid range, the 706 heads allow a cam with at least 10 degrees more intake duration, have significantly more compression and will get within 10-15 HP at the peak with only 500-800 rpms at the very top where they might make less hp while having 15-25 more lbs/ft of TQ for 1500-1800 rpms in the mid range. The only better way to make HP/$ with an LS is to just turbocharge it out of the gate and start with a cheaper 4.8 or 5.3.
If you ever put PS back in it, put a slotted pulley on it. Don't forget antisieze on everything. Now you've got me wanting to go out and LS swap something else. The aluminum brightener from napa will make the parts look good...it does etch so be ready to wash it off. I know those oil pan gaskets are nice, but where the front and rear covers meet up, i always use a tiny amount of black rtv to catch that seam. For the holley, you need to know your reluctor count...24 or 58. The pickup on the back top of the block that points back, not up. Black is the 24 tooth, Tan/grey is the 58 tooth. Gen 3 are all black, Gen 4 are all tan. Gen 3 don't have VVT and you'll see that you have no sensor in the timing cover plate.
Gen 3 don't have VVT. I know you likely know that but you are trying to educate and put 4 instead lol.
Aluminum brightener works but it's awful to deal with lol. It took like 6 hours of scrubbing, wire wheeling and brightener to make my L33 look nice again lol
@@LSswapGarage1 LOL, Thank you for checking my work! Fixed it.
You may have left it on a little too long; it's aggressive stuff.
@@StevenAndrews No, it just burns the skin nicely. It wouldn't touch the corrosion on the block until I wire wheeled everything first... then it was slow as hell. We have some stuff at the shop that makes aluminum look new again... its aggressive as hell and I wouldn't dare get it on your skin lol. Dunk it forget it for a few hours and wash it off... looks like new
If you're building with power tour in mind you might reconsider that ac compressor, if it'll fit in the car. Options out there for putting air in a tri five.
For your kick down cable go check out what Derek on VGG did on the Hemi Half. Stupid simple! Love watching you guys.
I started my channel doing the most budget swaps on RUclips (to my knowledge) was doing running and driving turbo foxbody for 2k or less and never got the views for me to keep the motivation. Thankfully you're already set and this will be a epic setup!!
YES !! I have the local salvage yard looking for a 6 L for a build
Nothing wrong with 5.7s either.
@@nonyabidness6492350 is a 5.7 ls is a 5.3
I Bought me a little Silverado with an extended cab , it looks to be a cherry one in which the owner was a dear grandpa using it to make his haircut trips in , I hope to keep it simply to follow the legions of old run of the mill good olde maintenanced mechanicals through its next 5 year tour , Then when it’s time, give it all the grand work . Your a good mechanic with patience, watching the head bolt removal was like watching a surgeon in mid operation go into a story of calming Cardom . Learned me something . To let you know what your audience already has gathered , Its a master class when a teacher shows his revealed flaws that you may encounter under the execution of a job , the secret to a good channel , you have that easy neighborly chat quality in similar fashion with Vise Grip Garage and Derek .Ill Keep your channel in tune , the old ways will never ever grow tyresom.
Just got our DD shirts delivered in Australia,gunna wear them in my 4 Door 57.💪,love the videos,great channel
hey dd man good choice with the ls! my 83 chevy k10 is running everything from the factory except the motor the stock ecu from the 02 chevy 1500 worked great the software to flash it was free (pcm hammer) and (tuner pro) pretty easy to use depending on ur pcm but all in i have probably 1800 in my swap and it runs fantastic if you want videos of how i did it all let me know!
Hey send video of your k10
Drill a decent size hole through the pulley and then you can just spin it and take the bolts off as you need to
As for mounts the ICT Billet mounts work great and are adjustable as well and use a regular BBC/SBC mount on a plate that adapts it to the LS block.
The stock 317 heads along with an early truck w/78mm tb or car intake are so bad on a dished piston 6.0 you wouldn't be able to tell a difference between that and a flat top 5.3 with 706s, a TBSS intake w/90-92mm TB. Either engine with a cam, headers, tuned up is going to feel the exact same on the street. The secret is using 706 heads(with thinner head gaskets 0.027"), tbss/NBS intake, 92mm TB on a dished piston 6.0. That would give you 1.9:1 more compression, better ports that make more power, the best factory Cathedral port intake, will make a big cam feel good and when you run a flex fuel sensor you'll make a good 15-20TQ in the middle.
I bought a puller/installer tool for 45$ last summer. Tired of not having the tools to do the job. I am far from Rich that's for sure. Tool does Chevy/ford etc. I went from serpentine belt to the old v-groove belt in truck restoring 88 GMC half ton. Went from 305 fuel injection to 350 carved and kept getting belt squeal and removed that huge plate off of front and decided to go back to old school way with v-groove belts.
So far so good. Everything seems to be correct. I look forward to your next episode.
You should put a tarp over the nomad on your shirt to be authentic
You could run that with a TH400, people do it all the time. If you're not allergic to buying higher octane fuel, I would recommend this. Get a set of 706 heads, especially for a big heavy car that you are going to drive in the street. Those heads will increase the compression ration from 9.4:1 up to 10.6:1 on their own, then I would use a 0.027" head gasket when reassembling it, that will put you at 11.3:1 compression ratio. From there I would used an Elgin 238/242 cam, PAC 1218 or Comp 918 springs, 1.75"-3" long tube headers, a NBS/TBSS intake manifold, maybe use a flex fuel sensor for E85 if it's available and you'll be well over 500hp and you'll have TONS of TQ in the mid range and it will still be safe for 91-93 Oct gas.
Quick note, I don't think that is a Holley 302-# pan (I don't believe Holley comes with a gasket and the Holley pan doesn't indent at the bolts like that). I am speaking from experience because I went with the old PW pan (because it looked close enough) and ended up having to get the proper Holley pan. It may still work for your application but I know my particular setup caused issues. Loving the content BTW.
Getting ready to do my 1st LS swap in a 1953 Ford Mainline coupe. Bought a complete 2001 Suburban for a donor. Wish me luck!
After seeing Dylan McCool's police diplomat I was thinking of doing something like this with a Hemi. Thanks for posting it up!
Dylan is using a 360 Magnum in that not a 5.7.
@@hendo337 Yeah, I'm saying *I* would do a 5.7 and an eight speed. 😄😄
Dan, one of your best videos. A Lot of good info and the prices.
Can't tell you how happy I am that the wagon is getting an LS!!!
Get a bottle of liquid Maalox anti-acid, and before you thread, the steel bolts back into the aluminum heads, coat the threads with Maalox, it will keep the threads from seizing it’s an old airplane mechanic trick
It's not cheap, but they sell kits to make a LS look like 57-65 fuel injected 327 or a 3x2bbl 427. They are on display at Summit Racing Tallmage OH store. Also, my turbo 6.0 4l80e with 3.73s on a 9x28 tire got 23-26mpg at 70mph on gasoline. Depending on air temperature and elevation
LS looks great on the inside. You got the deal Dan. Good Job!
Dan, paint the motor Gold !! It makes the engine look awesome, Bud !!!!
Keep the 2 halves of the power steering pulley, in case you want ps in the future. You have a welder . Craig's List overhaul, Sweet!
Put a little gasket goop on those meeting surfaces under your oil pan to insure that it seals up good, great video.
DD, it's so funny watching you extract a bolt that you heated up to take out. I couldn't believe you were trying to take out the bolt when it was red hot and soft. Of course it broke off because the metal molecules haven't cooled enough for strength yet. I put my hand over my eyes watching you fail with these bolts and doing a poor job extracting them out. You do decent work on the other things but this one, you need patience grasshopper.
pull that oil filler gooseneck then put the cap right on the valve cover where the gooseneck came out of
Never paint an LS, that's a Sloppy Mechanics rule, the second you paint it, the engine will suddenly become junk.
I've always found lack of oil pressure in ls engines is due to broken, plastic oil sender on the back of the block. Change it.
That doesn't make your oil pressure low, that's just the sensor unit. The O ring will let air through and prevent oil from being pumped
@@nonyabidness6492 the plastic of the sensor unit cracks, and oil starts leaking out not to mention erratic oil pressure.
@@stephenh.bunkybyrd2024 yeah you're comparing a leak at an auxiliary point on the top of the engine to a leak at the oil pump.
You might as well compare the rubber gromits on the valve cover leaking to it too 🤣
The last 6.0 I swapped had several broken manifold bolts, I got all ready to do a vide on extracting them, but then they all spun out without even a visegrip. I was miffed at all the others I fought with, and sad I couldn't show how to do all of it on messed up parts.
I do it different, buy the entire truck, pull all the parts I will need to stuff the engine in an older truck, or to put a 6.0 in a 1500 Silverado, then scrap the rest. I also use those trucks as winter beaters, so I need parts for them, so the better ones hang around for parts.
If its completely stock parts, its dirt cheap considering new car parts are more expensive than old car parts. If you want reliable power and you have an sbc, the LS is a good upgrade. It cost me more to put vortec heads on a $500 sbc 400 short block than it does to rebuild a Pontiac with all new stuff. Nickle and dime you to death, and then it is a pooch.
Been watching a few channels that swapped 5.3s into their old cars, like a G body Malibu, and then they take it to the track and it runs 15s to high 14s. I simply can't spend that much money to go that slow. If I spend $3k on an engine, it better run low 12s to high 11s in a stock weight car without a power adder. For daily driver late model stuff, yeah I like em. I do not consider them fast, but you can throw a lot of boost at them for a while.
Thats why I like the LS for trucks, the 6.0 has decent power for a truck. The 07 1500 crew cab got one, the Escalade came with one, the 76 and 80 C10s are getting them, and so is the 88 C1500.
I put the motor sideways on the engine stand and drill a hole in the middle of the stud before I weld the nut to it, it seems to flow the weld down and heat the entire stud frees it up the first shot in my experience
Finally a video that told me everything I need to know about using one of these. Thanks man.
Dan normally that other knob on the throttle is for a Cruise control and you need to get your angel of the dangle right for a 700R4 type TV cable. The travel of that TV cable adapter is not linear to the movement of throttle cable from what I recall. If you are up for a few dollars more check into Bowtie overdrives for the proper adapter that just attaches for that TV cable
A free but small LS clean up I learned from another swap video was to remove the ugly oil fill elbow from the Pass valve cover and then just take the fill cap and screw it back on the valve cover. One little ugly piece gone. OOPS, should have known you already knew that after seeing the end of the video. Well played!
Love what you do. You finish most all your projects. I'm done with Bad at finishing a project Chad.
99-02 dbc, 03-07 dbw. gen 4 07.5+ or 2005 yukon/envoy. usually the stock 99-02 cable works in most gm stuff. holley oil pan is close to the f body ls pan (98+) which i think you can get a little cheaper. MAKE SURE U HAVE THE CORRECT PICKUP TUBE O RING. Big deal if you want oil pressure. Dirty dingo is good for most mounts. Jegs has a flexplate chart per what transmission etc you want. I usually do ebay gaskets + 1 stick of rtv if its a real tight budget. cam retainer plate is a good thing to replace while youre in there. stock oil pumps fine unless youre going boosted youll starve your motor of oil with to big of a pump. double chain is not needed. you can bolt the car water pump if needed depending on your radiator routing. hope some of this info helps someone. Ive done these between $0 and $20k now. 1999 6.0s have a long crank except for manual option trucks, (you wouldnt really want this unless using the auto from the same truck). 4.8s/5.3s usually have dished plates, but i have seen them on 6.0 / vise versa. I dab the corners of the pan with rtv. make sure you align the rear timing cover with oil pan properly or there is a chance it will crack. front and real main covers with new seals can be bought for $40-50each.
your holley should be 24x tooth dbc with multec 2 if stock truck. max is only needed if electric trans
ill add if you have a 4.8/5.3 with 706 heads id recommend getting them tested or swapped if they have a little battery icon, they are prone to cracking around bolt holes. you're also suppose to replace head bolts when changing head gaskets (TTY) and run mls headgaskets and exhaust flange gaskets (i use felpro) if you don't want them to leak. or the cheap gasket you get with your $80 eBay headers with a full sleeve of rtv lol. be careful with knock sensors or replace them bc they'll usually fall apart. its in service index to seal around the grommet due to water getting down in them. I believe they're 15 ftlbs. as far as exhaust bolts i usually run the arp bolts.
by the time you buy a wideband, fuse box, hp tuners tune. youre basically the same cost as a holley
Not even remotely close. Then you can't tune anyway so you run out and pay a tuner for the Holley anyway...because unless its stock that autotune is a joke lol
That extra lever on the throttle body is for the cruise control.
Are LS's ugly? Yes. Are they boring? Also yes. But MAN they are fun to drive lol nothing like a stock motor making 330hp before you do anything to it and still be able to get something resembling mpg lol The 1980 Camaro I swapped a 5.3 in with a mild cam and exhaust was such a blast to drive. Cruised like grandmas bingo bomber, but you give it some beans and it would do hellacious burnouts. With a TH350 and 3.23's it was getting 18-20mpg. Probably could've gotten better than that if the smoke would stay in the damn tires lol
Hi Dan. Man dude, you change engines more than I change my underwear! Thank goodness! And Thank You for all the videos!
I like the power the ls makes but I don’t like their problems. I’m old school I’m a big block Chevy guy
If you need an upper radiator hose get one for a 2012 Chevy/GMC van with an LS (I’m sure there are several years that are the same), but I route’s the water from the upper neck to the drivers side radiator inlet.
I tried the "weld a nut on " approach to removing a broke manifold collector stud. The stud just broke farther in every time I redid it. Maybe this works with aluminum heads but cast iron collector didn't get the job done. Use stainless steel bolts and you won't have this problem again.
stainless bolts are weaker than the common stretch bolts. If you use stainless use a good Quality bolt made for that application and never seize.
PSI make a great stand alone harness that runs everything including the trans , with computer programmed to your specifications for under $700
If your answer is going that route you may as well buy the holley lol
Great video. LOVE how you guys all dish on each other. Mortske just made a little dig on you the other day, and he hits on Puddin all the time.
Can't wait to see this in the FiveSix!
You could have just drilled a hole in the ps pulley to access the pump bolts,which will allow you to reuse the pump....
No Sr Mortski couldn't get er done with puddin holding his tool!!
On the older, cable throttle body, the cruise control cable also attaches to the throttle body.
My next project after the Mustang is done is a 78 Monte Carlo. Currently it has no drivetrain at all so I'm hoping to find an LS to throw in it, even a 4.8 would work for me as I'm not looking for a ton of power.
If only you'd made this video before I did my '59 Corvette / LS3-4L65E swap..oh well, trial and error is a good teacher.
low buck DIY guys get a micro squirt, easy to do and works just to run the engine. yes there are better systems but if you are not going digital dash and all that it works. The holley stuff is great for sure, have a sniper unit on my BBC in my 78 Malibu. For my 1994 camaro and my subaru swapped VW baja I went micro squirt. I have a v6 for now in the 94 but wanted to use it as a test for tuning with the software for the micro squirt. I will go LS later in it once I have the money and find a good LS engine.
Are you familiar with the adapter brackets that allow you to use sbc valve covers as cosmetic coil covers on an LS? Keep the coils in stock LS position, but hide them under your favorite sbc valve covers. Spruce up the motor a bit. I think they are neat. My best friend thinks they are insanely stupid. Not sure which side of the fence you might fall on
Why bother with stuff like that when he's running 317 heads and an early truck intake still...there are lots of thing that would be a better use of his money that would pay off with HP and TQ than cosmetic stuff.
I know that your friend Brent just sorts out a few wires, saves everything he needs from the doner rig and bam, did done. Or your cousin Richard DeBoss spent enough money to take the queen out for dinner to make a LS engine look like a 350 old school engine. My take is if you were to paint a turn to look like a steak, it would still taste like a turd so why blow the money. Its quite overwhelming to sort all the wiring off of the engine on the ls engines but really worth the time because that computer part comes off whole and the part to the gauge section is easy enough when your only using four wires out of it using the pin remover and just remove all, use the wires you will need by the color code and in their respected holes. I know if I can do it Dan that you can... John just brought over the stuff he wanted untangled and thats just what i did. I have used cement stripper to clean up aluminum fairly nice and truck drivers love their aluminum rims..... that said, they only look new for a maybe three months and then covered in brake dust, road grime an other stuff. There is some stuff out in a can that you mix with water, use a bottle brush to just smear it around, and just hose it off. its that easy i swear on my moms grave! I seen with these two old eyes wheels that looked really bad come super clean in say ten minutes with no scrubbing
I TOTALLY AGREE.
my Ls swap engine itself was cheap, only 450 cdn$ for complete running 5.3L Ls that did have double the Hp the stock 305
BUT by time i converted all the different hookups i had spent several thousand that couldve bought a new 300Hp Crate SBC and it wouldve dropped right in over a weekend instead of 2-3 months of fabbing things together.
This is going to be sweet! That piece your looking at for kick down is for cruise control. I love the LS stuff but I am like you I have every shape and sized small block stuff.
Dan, Holley makes some pretty inexpensive LS coil covers that look like big block Chevy valve covers once installed.
My $0.02, while it's out anyway put a better cam in it. I like the BTR Truck Norris cam kit, should have come with these cam specs from the factory. Keep up the good work 👍
Or you know... any other small duration cam that's been made for the last 20 years. All the Truck Norris does better is idle like garbage lol... which appeals to a lot of people lol. Dan would love the truck Norris though... tiny camshaft that thumps and sounds "good" lol. It's a 6 liter.. you can run a bigger cam that actually thumps for a reason and keep your low end decent while making more power everywhere else
Haven't you scene what happened when. Cam swapping a good running engine on the last build
@@matthewbegin3462 LS is roller...not some ancient flat tappet pos
Yep, remain calm Dan.
WORDS OF WISDOM!!!
Don't let emotions take over. Take it from an old hot- head!!!
Be cool!!!!
you can twist that extension oil fill tube out and the cap screws rt in
They are a great platform if you want to actually drive your car.
A lot of mechanics use 4 wheel carts for each job w mag trays for different bolts they have tools for the job side mounted trays for lubes hope it helps you
Looking good. Exhaust manifold bolts can put up a struggle in aluminum heads just as the second gen LT1’s. Can’t remember if you took the spark plugs out. Better do that now while it’s on the stand. Other than that it’s all good.
LQ4's with iron heads have a unique crank flange which accommodates older GM transmissions. ('99's)
Brent does LS swaps and makes it look easy, hopefully you can go to him for ideas and advice.
Well ya goin to have some power under the Hood and they won't Know till ya hit it Ya got this keep it goin Great build
If the motor is broken and the whole swap is cheaper than sourcing a new one id do it. Maybe some kind of nice Pontiac engine or Mopar but I love me a Chevy 350 :)
350s are getting insane these days. I paid 500 for my 6.0 after the only running 350s in my area were 1200-1500
I follow both you guys so I heard what morski said about you this morning
I watch both too I'll have to check Mortskis video I haven't been getting his notifications.
@@jasonhelbig7773 I haven't been getting his notifications until like 5 hrs later for some reason. 😕
Great shows keep up the good work
Great info. I'm also planning a LS swap on my 69 Chevelle.
Acdelco MLS stock exhaust manifold gaskets are the best header gaskets I've found. Cheap at the GM dealer and I have reused them multiple times with headers and exh manifolds on my turbo set up 👍👍lol with Dorman exh manifold bolts with Permatex ceramic extreme brake parts lubricant on the threads. Haven't broken a bolt since.
I'm still old school give me a healthy big block
Yeah for 4x the price
DD Speed shop DD Speed shop DD Speed shop
Looking good, Dan!! The swap into the 58 Wagon is going to be sweet!! Cheers!!
This is awesome brother. 👌 can not wait to see this all coming together.
Hey, he has Duff to open the hoods already..maybe he could do some fabrication to make the wiring easier. Great breakdown!
No AC??? Do you remember Power Tour ??? Dani remembers. Lol 😂
"If there's a mistake, we're all guilty!" LOL
Factory Ferris metal bolts and Aluminum heads mating together cause electrolysis. This is due to the Ferris and Aluminum metals having a different electrical charge. This difference in charge basically welds the different metals together. Stainless Steel bolts have a very, very similar electrical charge to Aluminum. This similar charge limits electrolysis to near zero. Use Stainless Steel bolts on LS exhaust manifolds/headers and breakage will be non-existent.
Is painting it with a brush more effective
LS swapping is easy power but it’s not tunnel ram or blower sticking out the hood cool. Trust me LS motors build some serious power that’s for sure. That LS will make a nice cruiser out of that old ride 👍.
Never worked on a LS before, learning as you go. Thanks.
If u don’t have a bunch of sbc stuff around you can not make more power for cheaper than with an Ls.
dd hello from southeast virginia, love your channel, keep the videos coming,take my friend