Hi Angela, Thanks. Your feedback is greatly appreciated. 😁Being one of my earlier videos, I realized that the background music was louder than I though it would be, but did not know how to turn it down at the time - I have learned a lot more about editing since then and try to make slightly better videos - better on the ears hopefully. Thanks again
Thank you for this video. I know you made this a year ago but I had three back to back (Hatching Eggs) that just didn’t happen since my reader on my incubator must not have been accurate and I don’t know if my chicks drowned or they just weren’t warm enough. But because of this, I’m actually having hatching. Thanks so much for this video you’re the only video out there that details how to dry hatch and why!!!
Hi Shannon. Thank you so much. Although this is not one of the best videos out there, I am always happy to have feedback. I am still dry hatching, but sometimes I do have to add some water, because my fan driven incubator dries it out too much on arid days. Just keeping an eye on the air sac in the egg does a lot more than trying to regulate humidity at times. Wishing you GREAT success and a wonderful experience with dry hatching🙂
I’ve hatched many many BCM you need to weight your eggs prior to placing in incubator. They need to loose 13to 15% of that number before hatch day. Otherwise you will have fully developed chicks that never hatch. I run 35 to 40% humidity until I get a pip then 60-65 while hatching. If I run 50 to 55 % humidity you may get a few to hatch but not any good numbers. Depending on incubator it can spike greatly. I use a styrofoam incubator to hatch in and incubate in a GQF cabinet 1588 or a Brinsea. Little Giants are not recommended!!!! Brinsea has a guide book for incubator and its free to view or download. This is where I solved my problems. Highly recommend reading for serious hatching. I believe large hatcheries have so much airflow in there incubators that they need to run more humidity than a small setup.
I have hatched Emu, duck, geese, guinea, chickens, pheasants, peafowl, and I to this day still hatch my own Cornish Cross. I have 14 incubators, from the table top versions to a cabinet incubator. If I listened to what others recommend, I would not be where I am at today. Some things work for some people and not for others - I am glad you found what worked for you, but this may not be for everyone - There are many different methods out there, I suggest people try different strategies and go with what works for them. I would NEVER weigh my eggs - I don't stick to any stringent methods - look at what happens in nature - animals never read these books but hatch and rear young! People overthink things. Life is only as hard as you make it. Just do what comes naturally and imitate nature the best you can - with a side of learned skills.
Thank you for making this video. It is very helpful. I'm trying the dry hatch method for the first time. My humidity on the first day was around 60 percent. I'm on the second day, and it dropped to 30 percent.
Hi, Ϯιɴɣ Foxɣ. I am glad you found some useful information in this video. I have found however that if you live in a dry area, then you will still need to add some water to the eggs (especially if you have a fan driven incubator)- just be sure to check by candling before lockdown and still keep them hydrated enough to be able to hatch.
With the incubator you have, this is definitely the best method to use since I can never get that thing up to "wet hatch" and keep it there. Even using sponges, it's a pain to keep humidity up in mine. Also, if you move a thermometer around in there, it doesn't seem to circulate air very well. I'm definitely going to try this method now with some spare quail eggs.
Anotherthing, I tried the sponges too. They seem to start smelling weird, so I stopped that. I found that when my hens go broody, they don't add water, they use the ambient humidity too. Only thing to watch though is the incubator fan can dry out the air - so you may still have to add just a tad of water once in a while. We have some humid days here in Indiana, so It works out pretty well with this method. Good luck with your quail. Let me know how that worked for you.
As long as you check the status of your egg whist candling, you'll see if the it is developing properly by checking the air sack space. I have had some that looked to be drying out, but found that the chicks were if a smaller size - same with the opposite - towards the end the air sack is smaller. I usually add water on the day of hatching to ease the pipping through the shell. This also helps them contain the fluids in their bodies if the humidity is higher once they hatch and therefor can stay in the incubator for a while without drinking. (to wait for most of the others to hatch)
@@haireyhomestead3820 I gave up on using this incubator as an incubator. What it does work well for is drying out quail chicks that get wet or are otherwise chilled for whatever reason. I actually had a bunch of young adult quail that decided to bunch up against the hardware cloth on their hutch during a rainstorm, which killed a few but I managed to rehab more than I lost with that incubator. Four died before I found them, and I got seven in that incubator for about an hour and saved them. There wasn't a lot of room for them to move, but they survived.
@@anotherthing I am so sorry you had this devastating experience. I also use a "112-egg-incubator" I only use the top level for incubating and the bottom for a temporary brooder until all chicks are hatched. What kind of incubator have you found that works for you? Are quail harder to hatch than chickens? I have never had quail. I do sincerely hope your next hatch is successful.
@@haireyhomestead3820 Quail are pretty different. The hatch rate doesn't seem as good, and once born, they're very suicidal. They're the dumbest bird I've ever raised. Worse than guinea fowl. Basically, smaller, dumber guinea fowl. You have to fill their waterer with rocks in order to keep them from submerging themselves in the water and either drowning there or getting all their other clutchmates wet so they all chill to death with one another. The quail waterers on Amazon work well - but that's after the first week because even though they're thinner, the quail chicks can still squeeze sideways in to the water and do what I just mentioned. I actually have one of those "112 egg incubators", but I have one tray of quail/chicken cloverleaf style turners that'll hold 156 quail eggs, so I can do 212 quail at once with it. One note about them, at least with mine, the fan was installed upside down on the second floor of that incubator. You unscrew it, flip it, and that incubator works dramatically better. The fan label should be facing upwards. I've also heard that the heating element in it is undersized and you can get replacement, larger ones that improve those things quite a bit.
37.5 is Centigrade - This would be 99.5 Fahrenheit. Usually you can toggle from C to F and back, some manufacturers only have one setting - either Centigrade or Fahrenheit - you will need to convert the temperatures. (formula for converting the Fahrenheit scale to the Celsius scale. Moreover, this formula is below: C = 5/9 x (F-32), Where, C = Celsius measure and F = Fahrenheit measure.) >>> or: For the Fahrenheit to Celsius, just reverse the order and do the opposite function in each steps: _subtract 32. divide by 9. multiply by 5. I hope this helps - I may not have understood your question entirely if this was not what you were looking for🙂
Hi Joyful, It does not mean that they don't hatch, - the diagram is not from me, rather an explanation from the web. If they dry out too much, they can literally dry out the chick and it may not hatch. I have had "dry" eggs hatch. But I have also had more "wet" eggs die too🙂
I can't say that I have seen this in particular - I know they change color (stain) when they are in a wet spot for too long, also the protein in the egg can cause a Maillard reaction if they are exposed to heat.
Im trying the dry hatch method for the first time, i have not added any water at all and my humidity is always around 30%. Gonna lock them down in 2 days !!
Sounds like you are on the right track there! I also tell people that do not "trust" the dry hatch method : If you are worried that your chicks will have a hard time hatching the dry method, then by all means you can add a few drops of water (very sparingly) this will not drown the chicks but can give you the peace of mind. Good luck hatching!!!🙂
Is there any good way to keep humidity high towards the end without adding any water? My eggs are 3 days in and even with water and sponge the humidity only goes up to 33%. Also I have homemade incubator which is made out of a box so I was wondering if it should be tightly sealed so there is no airflow.
Hi Namwoo, You must have airflow - you may reduce it, but without air flow your chicks will not survive. Have you tried filling a vessel? - If you fill a shallow vessel, the water evaporates slower - and on the other side, if you have a wide vessel, the water will evaporate faster - giving you higher humidity. For a lower humidity set a shot-glass full of water, for higher humidity, set a wider glass or dish with water. If you have candles them, and they do not look dried out (large air sac) then you are doing ok and do not need to regulate humidity. So only if you feel they look too dry add humidity. Please let me know how your hatch goes. Best wishes and happy hatching
@@haireyhomestead3820 Hey, thanks so much for your help. Thankfully one of the eggs hatched. I wanted to ask you something because other 4 eggs still haven't hatched and its day 22. I don't think it's a temperature or humidity problem because one of them hatched and I've been candling them every 2 days. I had one unfertilized egg so i had to throw it out but the rest of them were fine. I don't really know what seems to be a problem. I had 45% humidity for 18 days and 65% for the last 3 days. There is no pipping yet so I wanted to ask you if you would know what might be the cause. Thanks
I do believe you want air flow. I have hatched eggs with humidity of 25-30% successfully. Once they pip, you can add extra water to soften the membrane, should it seem dried out. Adding water during hatching also gives them enough humidity to absorb through the air so they will be more comfortable waiting on their hatch-mates. Just be sure not to "drown" them with too much water. The unpipped eggs could absorb too much.
@@user_0721 It is very difficult to have a "diagnosis". A temperature swing 1ºF (0.6ºC) below 99.5ºF (37.5ºC) will cause late hatch. Also Older eggs vs fresher eggs will have different hatch times. I have had chicks hatch on day 25. I could not tell you exactly why, but probably a late developer or started out in a cooler place in the incubator and did not receive the proper higher temperature to start its development in the same time the others did. I do however open all of my unhatched eggs to try and see what the cause could be. I still find some that seem "wet" - As if they drowned. Wondering if it could be certain genetics that are prone to missed hatches (?)
I’m in my first year of having chickens and got my first egg this week. Once the other 3 girls start laying I’d like to try this dry method as I watched a guy do 3 versions: Dry Box Humidity Incubator Dry-last 3 days add water. My question for you is do you rotate your eggs in a dry batch? Thanks for the content.
I am going to try a dry hatch this time around because I had too many losses and I suspect that it was the chicks had drowned in the egg hopefully this time around I have better luck I will add water on day 18 but only a very tiny amount and observed I have put a thermometer and humidity metre inside the incubator so I can have a more accurate idea
Hi Noel, I'm sorry your hatching was not so good. That is the reason why I tried this. Please be aware that you will still need to keep them around 30% humid - even before day 18 - It depends on your region and how dry the air is - does your incubator run a fan that dries the air? If so keep an eye on the humidity - we have had humid conditions when I made this video, this year (so far) it has been dry, and I replenish the water in my incubators almost daily to keep it at 30-35%. I really hope it works for you. Please keep me posted. I'd love to see your chicks, once they have hatched. You can send me pictures on our 'Hairey Homestead" Facebook page: facebook.com/PetraFoxHaire.😃
Hi Noel, and thanks for watching. I added very small humidity gages in my incubators - (I'll link some to choose from). This way I can be sure there is enough water in the incubator - I found with fan driven heat incubators, the humidity drops quite a bit and they can also dry out - depending on your climate. here is a link to some tiny gages: www.bing.com/search?q=Veanic+4-Pack+Mini+Digital+Electronic+Temperature+Humidity+Meters+Gauge+Indoor+Thermometer+Hygrometer+LCD+Display+Fahrenheit+%28%E2%84%89%29+for+Humidors%2C&form=ANNTH1&refig=fbd4cb0e2b024340b66a6b07ea3b80b2
You can candle after 1 day in the incubator and see if they are fertile. A lot harder with darker eggs, but with white eggs it is very easy to see the embryo.
I would try it, but I'm pretty sure that with my eyesight I would not see anything. Lol. I am do used to doing this much later , like towards day 10-12, this way even my eyes can be sure they are developing. Thanks for this information. It will surely encourage others to take advantage of this early detection.
Very unlikely at day 1. I had some eggs were I saw something at day 2. At day 4 I sort out unfertil eggs. YesterdayI saw 2 egs with that blood halo at day 4.
In order to ensure that there is enough humidity and the eggs do not dry out due to the incubator fan and heat (which is not a natural hatch method) I add water. If you have a still incubator with no air movement, you would not need to adjust - this is closest to a natural hatch - I have one such incubator and never need to add water. But I err on the side of caution, as I am using a fan driven incubator here - some people never add water to those as well and have had success. (could be that their environment was humid enough to carry them through to hatch.
Hi, Junior general show. Usually you will be able to see movement in an egg being candled. If you candle before there is any significant movement, you can watch for development - until you see movement. If your eggs become overdue for hatching, or you want to be sure they are alive towards the end of the hatching, you can "float" the egg - be sure the water temperature is a tad warmer than the incubator and the egg still has it's bloom so water does not seep through the pores and drown the chick. here is a video on how you can "float-test" the egg: ruclips.net/video/FY0JDc418Go/видео.html
Hi shenise, If you candle the egg and it does not move - It could be dead - I personally don't sort my eggs like that I let them go until day 24 before I start sorting. Try to water float these, as there is not much room for the chick to move and you would not see this while candling later in the development. To water float, you can watch this video - it is an excellent source of information. : ruclips.net/video/MezVti3hwBE/видео.html
Absolutely! And thank you for your input. If it works for you, please keep doing what gets best results for you and the environment you are in. This alternative method worked wonders for me. Not everything that works for one is good for everyone. But if people want to increase their hatchback by trying different methods, then this one may also work for them.
Hi, Time flies. Sorry for the late response, (winter has it's longer days on the farm). Yes, If the humidity is too low, the egg could dry out making it too difficult for the chick to hatch. It is advantageous to have the humidity raised during the last four days before the hatch, too high humidity could also drown your chick before it has a chance to hatch. You can use a moist sponge (pieces) in the incubator, that way if it is too high, you can remove some or add a few drops of water to the sponges when needed.
So sorry for the late reply. I do add water whenever the humidity gets low (this will happen more so with a fan driven incubator) I do add warm water on hatch day to keep their environment humid enough for them to be without a drink for a couple of days after hatching.
Ok so how is your air sack perfect? You're doing a dry 30% method sooo shouldn't the air sack in the egg be low and dried out? I'm confused!!! Perfect should be when you maintain a humidity of 55% from day 1 to 18 right? Soo confused right now. Lmk thx
Hi AtoZ, I guess that goes to show that the air sack is indeed ok at 30% until day 18. Have you tried taking a humidity reading from under a broody hen? Actually I have not either....Hmmm I think I'll try that and see what the humidity is every day or so until the hatch. I wonder if the hen will add moisture to increase the humidity before hatch somehow. 🤔
@@haireyhomestead3820 interested on knowing that... please tell me you've tested it.. I'm doing my first chicken dry hatch... did a quail one a year ago then stopped hatching..sold machines I was done... then I wasn't.. got new Inc and now about 4 days in... please tell me what the humidity is under a hen lol.
@@haireyhomestead3820 oh also when chicks hatch they are wet so adds humidity so apperenlty due to that no need to add water .. got me wondering about that 1st chick hatching tho lol
To be honest I have problems with this "drowning because of high humiduty". I am living in the tropics and in rainy season its almost always over 80% humidity out here. Everyone owns chickens and many come from natural broods.
Natural is always best - Humidity in the incubator has always been a tricky thing. Too much of it or too little of it can ruin your hatch rate. Humidity starts out at one percentage but then needs to be raised at just the right point in order for a successful hatch. This can leave some people scratching their heads at just how to accomplish this feat. Air can absorb water. This water vapor is a gas. Water vapor in the air can range from none to the full maximum which air can hold. We call this saturation. This full maximum can increase as the temperature rises. When talking about humidity in the incubator we are usually discussing the Relative Humidity. This is expressed as a percentage. It is a measure of the amount of water vapor in the air compared with the maximum that could be absorbed at that temperature. If the Relative Humidity level is 50% that means that the air contains half of its maximum possible water vapor capacity. Most people (unless they practice dry incubation) shoot for 40-50% for the first 18 days of incubation and then raise it to 65-75% for the final three days of hatching. In general, slightly lower humidity is better than too high of humidity during incubation. Start by following the manufacturers recommendations for humidity and temperature for your individual incubator. Then for future hatches you can tweak the numbers and make minor adjustments for what works best for you. Many factors affect humidity such as : Egg size (the smaller the egg, the greater the moisture loss.), Porous shell (which increases with a hen’s age), elevation, egg storage length and conditions, weather, incubation temperature, air speed and shell thickness (which decreases with hen’s age. Thinner shells require higher humidity.) Egg shells are porous and they allow water to pass through. The amount of water that an egg loses during incubation is important and is determined by the humidity levels in the incubator. If you set your eggs with the pointy side down, you will notice an airspace at the top rounded part of the egg when you candle it. Water is lost through the shell gradually and is replaced by air which is also drawn through the shell. This airspace gradually increases in size. The greater the water loss, the larger the airspace. This airspace is critical to the chick. It is the first air that the chick breathes and is needed in order for the chick to move into the correct position for hatching. If the humidity has been too high during incubation, the egg will have lost too little water and the air cell will be small. This will cause the chick to have trouble breathing and will have trouble breaking out of the shell. Often you will see the chick’s beak protruding out of the shell. The bird is stuck and unable to zip around the shell and will not be able to hatch. If the incubation humidity has been too low there will be very large air spaces. The chicks are often small and weak and will have trouble cracking the shell and hatching. Monitoring air cells when you candle will also let you know if your incubator is maintaining the correct humidity. This chart shows you what your air cells should look like as the egg loses water. Use a pencil to draw the outline of the eggs air cell every time you candle.
Thanks Bag Pack, appreciate the contribution. So far however I have not added any water until day 18. and have had great success with the dry hatching. I have done the "regular hatch'' - as you suggested when I first started, but with less than 50% hatch rate. I then switched to the dry hatch - as I have documented and have at least 80% and twice 100% hatch rate. It might also depend on what area you're from and what works best for your environment.
The very basic idea is to hatch as naturally as possible.. Unless you are in a dry arid environment, you do not need to add humidity until lockdown, and that would be no higher than 65%.
I have used google translator to translate some of the video content into Vietnamese. I hope this helps Tôi đã sử dụng google dịch để dịch một số nội dung video sang tiếng Việt. Tôi hi vọng cái này giúp được Chuyển sang phương pháp ấp khô giúp tôi có tỷ lệ nở 100%. Tôi không mong đợi điều đó mọi lúc, nhưng nó đã được chứng minh là phương pháp tốt nhất cho tôi cho đến nay. Tôi không thể không nghĩ về một cửa sập tự nhiên. Gà mái dậy đi kiếm ăn và chủ yếu sử dụng độ ẩm môi trường xung quanh. Cô ấy không thể thêm nước. Và đúng vậy, ngay cả trong tự nhiên, không phải tất cả các quả trứng đều nở - quá ướt, quá khô, quá nóng, quá lạnh. Tuy nhiên, chúng tôi có thể tạo ra một môi trường hoàn hảo để có tỷ lệ nở lớn, vì vậy HÃY HÃY TÌM HIỂU. Xin chào, chào mừng đến với kênh của tôi. Hôm nay chúng ta sẽ tìm hiểu cách làm khô nở. Điều này sẽ mô phỏng quá trình nở tự nhiên. Đặt trứng của bạn vào lồng ấp. Không thêm độ ẩm cho cây thông nước, trừ khi nó rất khô. Ngày 1-18 độ ẩm nên từ 15% đến 30% Ngày 18-21 độ ẩm nên từ 60% đến 65%. Điều này có thể khiến một số trứng nở muộn hơn 21 ngày một chút. Cung cấp cho nó khoảng 24 ngày. Nếu nghi ngờ gà còn sống hay không, bạn có thể sử dụng phương pháp "Phao" để xem gà còn sống hay không. sống bên trong trứng. Bởi vì sau một vài tuần, gà con có rất ít chỗ để di chuyển và nó sẽ khó nhìn thấy trong quá trình thắp nến. Vì vậy, với phương pháp này, bạn đang sử dụng độ ẩm xung quanh, là độ ẩm trong không khí xung quanh bạn. Bạn sẽ thấy rằng máy đo độ ẩm của tôi ghi 30% - đó là độ ẩm môi trường xung quanh. Tuy nhiên, nhiệt độ không chính xác ở đây, vì tôi đã mở lồng ấp và di chuyển mọi thứ xung quanh một chút. Vì vậy, độ ẩm ngày 1-18 nên từ 15% đến 30%. Sau đó vào ngày 18 là khóa. Ngừng đảo trứng và sau đó từ ngày 18-21 độ ẩm phải từ 60% đến 65%. Vui lòng sử dụng hướng dẫn trong hình để xem túi khí của bạn trong quá trình thắp nến. Hình minh họa sẽ cho bạn biết túi khí phải lớn như thế nào để có thể nở thành công. Gà sẽ chui qua màng để hít thở không khí. Túi khí phải có đủ không khí để tồn tại cho đến khi nó xuyên qua vỏ. Sau đó, nó có thể thở và tự hoàn thành cửa sập. Đảm bảo chúng không quá ướt (độ ẩm cao) vì điều này sẽ khiến gà con bị chết đuối trước khi có cơ hội nở. Tôi sẽ đốt chúng ngay bây giờ, vào ngày 12, vì thắp nến quá sớm có thể không cho thấy nhiều chuyển động và bạn có thể ném quả trứng đó ra ngoài vì nghĩ rằng nó đã chết. Nến quá muộn có thể làm co lại lớp bọc của gà con đang phát triển thêm và sẵn sàng nở. Việc đưa gà ra khỏi lồng ấp muộn sẽ làm màng co lại và quấn chặt gà con. Nó sẽ chết và không thể nở được. Trong khi soi trứng, bạn sẽ thấy gà con (vùng tối) Nếu nhìn kỹ, bạn sẽ thấy nó di chuyển. (Xem video từ phút thứ 2:57 đến 3:00). Nhìn từ phút 3:00 - 3:10. Từ trái sang phải, Cao, Chính xác, Bao khí thấp. Ngày 19 - Ai đó đã sẵn sàng phá cửa. Độ ẩm môi trường là 76%. Rất cao, nhưng tôi đã không thêm nước. Đây là một ngày ẩm ướt - miễn là không quá ẩm trong thời gian quá dài, điều này sẽ ổn - hãy quan sát túi khí. Gieo có sự khác biệt giữa độ ẩm bên ngoài máy ấp và bên trong máy ấp. Cả hai đều ở mức cao 70. Đối với một số giống gà con, bạn có thể cho biết giới tính (giới tính) nếu đó là gà trống - chúng sẽ có một chấm trắng trên đầu. Nếu gà mái bị trống (có lông sọc) thì đây thường là cách bạn có thể phân biệt gà trống với gà mái. Đây là Bruce và con gà mái của anh ấy. Bruce, BẠN là cha. Bởi vì gà con cũng có lông chân. Bruce là con gà trống duy nhất có đôi chân đầy lông vũ. Igor, bạn không phải là cha.
I tried to cut the music out or at least turn the volume down, but I'd have to redo the entire video, because the software I used cannot be edited after the video is deleted from the project list. I may just redo it all. But will need to use new clips too. 😊 thanks
The ending is hilarious 😆. Thank you for this video 🐓🐥🐥🐥🐥🐥
Leiza1234, Thank you so very much. Happy hatching🙂
Loved the "You ARE the father/ NOT the father" reference .
Great video.
Subscribed
Hi Angela, Thanks. Your feedback is greatly appreciated. 😁Being one of my earlier videos, I realized that the background music was louder than I though it would be, but did not know how to turn it down at the time - I have learned a lot more about editing since then and try to make slightly better videos - better on the ears hopefully. Thanks again
Thank you for this video. I know you made this a year ago but I had three back to back (Hatching Eggs) that just didn’t happen since my reader on my incubator must not have been accurate and I don’t know if my chicks drowned or they just weren’t warm enough. But because of this, I’m actually having hatching. Thanks so much for this video you’re the only video out there that details how to dry hatch and why!!!
Hi Shannon. Thank you so much. Although this is not one of the best videos out there, I am always happy to have feedback. I am still dry hatching, but sometimes I do have to add some water, because my fan driven incubator dries it out too much on arid days. Just keeping an eye on the air sac in the egg does a lot more than trying to regulate humidity at times. Wishing you GREAT success and a wonderful experience with dry hatching🙂
I’ve hatched many many BCM you need to weight your eggs prior to placing in incubator. They need to loose 13to 15% of that number before hatch day. Otherwise you will have fully developed chicks that never hatch. I run 35 to 40% humidity until I get a pip then 60-65 while hatching. If I run 50 to 55 % humidity you may get a few to hatch but not any good numbers. Depending on incubator it can spike greatly. I use a styrofoam incubator to hatch in and incubate in a GQF cabinet 1588 or a Brinsea. Little Giants are not recommended!!!!
Brinsea has a guide book for incubator and its free to view or download. This is where I solved my problems. Highly recommend reading for serious hatching. I believe large hatcheries have so much airflow in there incubators that they need to run more humidity than a small setup.
I have hatched Emu, duck, geese, guinea, chickens, pheasants, peafowl, and I to this day still hatch my own Cornish Cross. I have 14 incubators, from the table top versions to a cabinet incubator. If I listened to what others recommend, I would not be where I am at today. Some things work for some people and not for others - I am glad you found what worked for you, but this may not be for everyone - There are many different methods out there, I suggest people try different strategies and go with what works for them. I would NEVER weigh my eggs - I don't stick to any stringent methods - look at what happens in nature - animals never read these books but hatch and rear young!
People overthink things. Life is only as hard as you make it. Just do what comes naturally and imitate nature the best you can - with a side of learned skills.
Thank you for making this video. It is very helpful. I'm trying the dry hatch method for the first time. My humidity on the first day was around 60 percent. I'm on the second day, and it dropped to 30 percent.
Hi,
Ϯιɴɣ Foxɣ. I am glad you found some useful information in this video. I have found however that if you live in a dry area, then you will still need to add some water to the eggs (especially if you have a fan driven incubator)- just be sure to check by candling before lockdown and still keep them hydrated enough to be able to hatch.
With the incubator you have, this is definitely the best method to use since I can never get that thing up to "wet hatch" and keep it there. Even using sponges, it's a pain to keep humidity up in mine. Also, if you move a thermometer around in there, it doesn't seem to circulate air very well. I'm definitely going to try this method now with some spare quail eggs.
Anotherthing, I tried the sponges too. They seem to start smelling weird, so I stopped that. I found that when my hens go broody, they don't add water, they use the ambient humidity too. Only thing to watch though is the incubator fan can dry out the air - so you may still have to add just a tad of water once in a while. We have some humid days here in Indiana, so It works out pretty well with this method. Good luck with your quail. Let me know how that worked for you.
As long as you check the status of your egg whist candling, you'll see if the it is developing properly by checking the air sack space. I have had some that looked to be drying out, but found that the chicks were if a smaller size - same with the opposite - towards the end the air sack is smaller. I usually add water on the day of hatching to ease the pipping through the shell. This also helps them contain the fluids in their bodies if the humidity is higher once they hatch and therefor can stay in the incubator for a while without drinking. (to wait for most of the others to hatch)
@@haireyhomestead3820 I gave up on using this incubator as an incubator. What it does work well for is drying out quail chicks that get wet or are otherwise chilled for whatever reason. I actually had a bunch of young adult quail that decided to bunch up against the hardware cloth on their hutch during a rainstorm, which killed a few but I managed to rehab more than I lost with that incubator. Four died before I found them, and I got seven in that incubator for about an hour and saved them. There wasn't a lot of room for them to move, but they survived.
@@anotherthing I am so sorry you had this devastating experience. I also use a "112-egg-incubator" I only use the top level for incubating and the bottom for a temporary brooder until all chicks are hatched. What kind of incubator have you found that works for you? Are quail harder to hatch than chickens? I have never had quail. I do sincerely hope your next hatch is successful.
@@haireyhomestead3820 Quail are pretty different. The hatch rate doesn't seem as good, and once born, they're very suicidal. They're the dumbest bird I've ever raised. Worse than guinea fowl. Basically, smaller, dumber guinea fowl. You have to fill their waterer with rocks in order to keep them from submerging themselves in the water and either drowning there or getting all their other clutchmates wet so they all chill to death with one another. The quail waterers on Amazon work well - but that's after the first week because even though they're thinner, the quail chicks can still squeeze sideways in to the water and do what I just mentioned.
I actually have one of those "112 egg incubators", but I have one tray of quail/chicken cloverleaf style turners that'll hold 156 quail eggs, so I can do 212 quail at once with it. One note about them, at least with mine, the fan was installed upside down on the second floor of that incubator. You unscrew it, flip it, and that incubator works dramatically better. The fan label should be facing upwards. I've also heard that the heating element in it is undersized and you can get replacement, larger ones that improve those things quite a bit.
Music made it difficult to hear you
Pls sir why is it that all the thermometer can't be set the same way, I mean 37.5 temperature.
37.5 is Centigrade - This would be 99.5 Fahrenheit. Usually you can toggle from C to F and back, some manufacturers only have one setting - either Centigrade or Fahrenheit - you will need to convert the temperatures. (formula for converting the Fahrenheit scale to the Celsius scale. Moreover, this formula is below: C = 5/9 x (F-32), Where, C = Celsius measure and F = Fahrenheit measure.) >>> or: For the Fahrenheit to Celsius, just reverse the order and do the opposite function in each steps:
_subtract 32.
divide by 9.
multiply by 5.
I hope this helps - I may not have understood your question entirely if this was not what you were looking for🙂
good
According to this diagram my eggs had low humidity and I still got a 100% hatch rate! 🥰
Hi Joyful, It does not mean that they don't hatch, - the diagram is not from me, rather an explanation from the web. If they dry out too much, they can literally dry out the chick and it may not hatch. I have had "dry" eggs hatch. But I have also had more "wet" eggs die too🙂
I had 3, 2 didn't make it. Currently waiting on the third.
I had two 2 different hatches and both 100%
Watched it twice! Very helpful.
Why does my chicken egg have this , I’ve noticed lately on the rounded end it’s discolored with red or a lighter color
I can't say that I have seen this in particular - I know they change color (stain) when they are in a wet spot for too long, also the protein in the egg can cause a Maillard reaction if they are exposed to heat.
I always practice dry hatch with the 90 to 96% of hatch rate, I recommended.
Im trying the dry hatch method for the first time, i have not added any water at all and my humidity is always around 30%. Gonna lock them down in 2 days !!
Sounds like you are on the right track there! I also tell people that do not "trust" the dry hatch method : If you are worried that your chicks will have a hard time hatching the dry method, then by all means you can add a few drops of water (very sparingly) this will not drown the chicks but can give you the peace of mind. Good luck hatching!!!🙂
That's something to definitely think about
Is there any good way to keep humidity high towards the end without adding any water? My eggs are 3 days in and even with water and sponge the humidity only goes up to 33%. Also I have homemade incubator which is made out of a box so I was wondering if it should be tightly sealed so there is no airflow.
Hi Namwoo, You must have airflow - you may reduce it, but without air flow your chicks will not survive. Have you tried filling a vessel? - If you fill a shallow vessel, the water evaporates slower - and on the other side, if you have a wide vessel, the water will evaporate faster - giving you higher humidity. For a lower humidity set a shot-glass full of water, for higher humidity, set a wider glass or dish with water. If you have candles them, and they do not look dried out (large air sac) then you are doing ok and do not need to regulate humidity. So only if you feel they look too dry add humidity. Please let me know how your hatch goes. Best wishes and happy hatching
@@haireyhomestead3820 Hey, thanks so much for your help. Thankfully one of the eggs hatched. I wanted to ask you something because other 4 eggs still haven't hatched and its day 22. I don't think it's a temperature or humidity problem because one of them hatched and I've been candling them every 2 days. I had one unfertilized egg so i had to throw it out but the rest of them were fine. I don't really know what seems to be a problem. I had 45% humidity for 18 days and 65% for the last 3 days. There is no pipping yet so I wanted to ask you if you would know what might be the cause. Thanks
I do believe you want air flow. I have hatched eggs with humidity of 25-30% successfully. Once they pip, you can add extra water to soften the membrane, should it seem dried out. Adding water during hatching also gives them enough humidity to absorb through the air so they will be more comfortable waiting on their hatch-mates. Just be sure not to "drown" them with too much water. The unpipped eggs could absorb too much.
@@user_0721 It is very difficult to have a "diagnosis". A temperature swing 1ºF (0.6ºC) below 99.5ºF (37.5ºC) will cause late hatch. Also Older eggs vs fresher eggs will have different hatch times. I have had chicks hatch on day 25. I could not tell you exactly why, but probably a late developer or started out in a cooler place in the incubator and did not receive the proper higher temperature to start its development in the same time the others did. I do however open all of my unhatched eggs to try and see what the cause could be. I still find some that seem "wet" - As if they drowned. Wondering if it could be certain genetics that are prone to missed hatches (?)
I’m in my first year of having chickens and got my first egg this week.
Once the other 3 girls start laying I’d like to try this dry method as I watched a guy do 3 versions:
Dry Box
Humidity Incubator
Dry-last 3 days add water.
My question for you is do you rotate your eggs in a dry batch?
Thanks for the content.
Good information, thank you. But why the background music which is disturbing
Because I liked it.....Use the volume button to turn it down.
@@haireyhomestead3820 so we won't hear you
No need to be rude if you don’t like it then get your information elsewhere! She’s trying to help people learn!
I am going to try a dry hatch this time around because I had too many losses and I suspect that it was the chicks had drowned in the egg hopefully this time around I have better luck I will add water on day 18 but only a very tiny amount and observed I have put a thermometer and humidity metre inside the incubator so I can have a more accurate idea
Hi Noel, I'm sorry your hatching was not so good. That is the reason why I tried this. Please be aware that you will still need to keep them around 30% humid - even before day 18 - It depends on your region and how dry the air is - does your incubator run a fan that dries the air? If so keep an eye on the humidity - we have had humid conditions when I made this video, this year (so far) it has been dry, and I replenish the water in my incubators almost daily to keep it at 30-35%. I really hope it works for you. Please keep me posted. I'd love to see your chicks, once they have hatched. You can send me pictures on our 'Hairey Homestead" Facebook page: facebook.com/PetraFoxHaire.😃
Hi Noel, and thanks for watching. I added very small humidity gages in my incubators - (I'll link some to choose from). This way I can be sure there is enough water in the incubator - I found with fan driven heat incubators, the humidity drops quite a bit and they can also dry out - depending on your climate. here is a link to some tiny gages: www.bing.com/search?q=Veanic+4-Pack+Mini+Digital+Electronic+Temperature+Humidity+Meters+Gauge+Indoor+Thermometer+Hygrometer+LCD+Display+Fahrenheit+%28%E2%84%89%29+for+Humidors%2C&form=ANNTH1&refig=fbd4cb0e2b024340b66a6b07ea3b80b2
You can candle after 1 day in the incubator and see if they are fertile. A lot harder with darker eggs, but with white eggs it is very easy to see the embryo.
I would try it, but I'm pretty sure that with my eyesight I would not see anything. Lol. I am do used to doing this much later , like towards day 10-12, this way even my eyes can be sure they are developing. Thanks for this information. It will surely encourage others to take advantage of this early detection.
Very unlikely at day 1. I had some eggs were I saw something at day 2. At day 4 I sort out unfertil eggs. YesterdayI saw 2 egs with that blood halo at day 4.
Thank you I will too try inshallah
I thought the purpose of dry hatching is not to add humidity at the end.
In order to ensure that there is enough humidity and the eggs do not dry out due to the incubator fan and heat (which is not a natural hatch method) I add water. If you have a still incubator with no air movement, you would not need to adjust - this is closest to a natural hatch - I have one such incubator and never need to add water. But I err on the side of caution, as I am using a fan driven incubator here - some people never add water to those as well and have had success. (could be that their environment was humid enough to carry them through to hatch.
How do I now that y egg is alive or not alive
Hi, Junior general show. Usually you will be able to see movement in an egg being candled. If you candle before there is any significant movement, you can watch for development - until you see movement. If your eggs become overdue for hatching, or you want to be sure they are alive towards the end of the hatching, you can "float" the egg - be sure the water temperature is a tad warmer than the incubator and the egg still has it's bloom so water does not seep through the pores and drown the chick. here is a video on how you can "float-test" the egg: ruclips.net/video/FY0JDc418Go/видео.html
That Bruce is a beautiful rooster
He sure is. He is so very sweet to all the hens - even sits with them (for a while) when they lay their eggs
@@haireyhomestead3820,gentle rooster ❤
How to know if its dead?
Hi shenise, If you candle the egg and it does not move - It could be dead - I personally don't sort my eggs like that I let them go until day 24 before I start sorting. Try to water float these, as there is not much room for the chick to move and you would not see this while candling later in the development. To water float, you can watch this video - it is an excellent source of information. : ruclips.net/video/MezVti3hwBE/видео.html
I used to adjust humidity up to 75% 1-18 and upto 85 18-21 days...many use this and get good result
Absolutely! And thank you for your input. If it works for you, please keep doing what gets best results for you and the environment you are in. This alternative method worked wonders for me. Not everything that works for one is good for everyone. But if people want to increase their hatchback by trying different methods, then this one may also work for them.
So do you add water to raise humidity towards the end? Or how do you raise the humidity towards end without adding water to keep it a “dry hatch”?
Hi, Time flies. Sorry for the late response, (winter has it's longer days on the farm). Yes, If the humidity is too low, the egg could dry out making it too difficult for the chick to hatch. It is advantageous to have the humidity raised during the last four days before the hatch, too high humidity could also drown your chick before it has a chance to hatch. You can use a moist sponge (pieces) in the incubator, that way if it is too high, you can remove some or add a few drops of water to the sponges when needed.
So sorry for the late reply. I do add water whenever the humidity gets low (this will happen more so with a fan driven incubator) I do add warm water on hatch day to keep their environment humid enough for them to be without a drink for a couple of days after hatching.
At least 70% correct, awsom keep it 💯 👌
Ok so how is your air sack perfect? You're doing a dry 30% method sooo shouldn't the air sack in the egg be low and dried out? I'm confused!!! Perfect should be when you maintain a humidity of 55% from day 1 to 18 right? Soo confused right now. Lmk thx
Hi AtoZ, I guess that goes to show that the air sack is indeed ok at 30% until day 18. Have you tried taking a humidity reading from under a broody hen? Actually I have not either....Hmmm I think I'll try that and see what the humidity is every day or so until the hatch. I wonder if the hen will add moisture to increase the humidity before hatch somehow. 🤔
@@haireyhomestead3820 interested on knowing that... please tell me you've tested it.. I'm doing my first chicken dry hatch... did a quail one a year ago then stopped hatching..sold machines I was done... then I wasn't.. got new Inc and now about 4 days in... please tell me what the humidity is under a hen lol.
@@haireyhomestead3820 oh also when chicks hatch they are wet so adds humidity so apperenlty due to that no need to add water .. got me wondering about that 1st chick hatching tho lol
To be honest I have problems with this "drowning because of high humiduty". I am living in the tropics and in rainy season its almost always over 80% humidity out here. Everyone owns chickens and many come from natural broods.
Natural is always best - Humidity in the incubator has always been a tricky thing. Too much of it or too little of it can ruin your hatch rate. Humidity starts out at one percentage but then needs to be raised at just the right point in order for a successful hatch. This can leave some people scratching their heads at just how to accomplish this feat.
Air can absorb water. This water vapor is a gas. Water vapor in the air can range from none to the full maximum which air can hold. We call this saturation. This full maximum can increase as the temperature rises.
When talking about humidity in the incubator we are usually discussing the Relative Humidity. This is expressed as a percentage. It is a measure of the amount of water vapor in the air compared with the maximum that could be absorbed at that temperature. If the Relative Humidity level is 50% that means that the air contains half of its maximum possible water vapor capacity.
Most people (unless they practice dry incubation) shoot for 40-50% for the first 18 days of incubation and then raise it to 65-75% for the final three days of hatching. In general, slightly lower humidity is better than too high of humidity during incubation.
Start by following the manufacturers recommendations for humidity and temperature for your individual incubator. Then for future hatches you can tweak the numbers and make minor adjustments for what works best for you.
Many factors affect humidity such as : Egg size (the smaller the egg, the greater the moisture loss.), Porous shell (which increases with a hen’s age), elevation, egg storage length and conditions, weather, incubation temperature, air speed and shell thickness (which decreases with hen’s age. Thinner shells require higher humidity.)
Egg shells are porous and they allow water to pass through. The amount of water that an egg loses during incubation is important and is determined by the humidity levels in the incubator.
If you set your eggs with the pointy side down, you will notice an airspace at the top rounded part of the egg when you candle it. Water is lost through the shell gradually and is replaced by air which is also drawn through the shell. This airspace gradually increases in size. The greater the water loss, the larger the airspace.
This airspace is critical to the chick. It is the first air that the chick breathes and is needed in order for the chick to move into the correct position for hatching.
If the humidity has been too high during incubation, the egg will have lost too little water and the air cell will be small. This will cause the chick to have trouble breathing and will have trouble breaking out of the shell. Often you will see the chick’s beak protruding out of the shell. The bird is stuck and unable to zip around the shell and will not be able to hatch.
If the incubation humidity has been too low there will be very large air spaces. The chicks are often small and weak and will have trouble cracking the shell and hatching.
Monitoring air cells when you candle will also let you know if your incubator is maintaining the correct humidity. This chart shows you what your air cells should look like as the egg loses water. Use a pencil to draw the outline of the eggs air cell every time you candle.
I don’t understand what you said too laud music
I know...Sorry. Back in the day when I made this I did not know much about manipulating the software to do what I wanted it to...
Towards the end I cannot hear you talking because of the music.
Thanks
If you try this, please update me on how it worked out for you!!
Humidity 45% to 55% 18 days
After that from 19day 65% to 75%
This is from expert
Thanks Bag Pack, appreciate the contribution. So far however I have not added any water until day 18. and have had great success with the dry hatching. I have done the "regular hatch'' - as you suggested when I first started, but with less than 50% hatch rate. I then switched to the dry hatch - as I have documented and have at least 80% and twice 100% hatch rate. It might also depend on what area you're from and what works best for your environment.
I have a pigeon egg
I have never tried to hatch pigeon eggs before, how long do you incubate them for? Do you raise special pigeons?
Pigeons are hard to raise. They have to be fed when they hatch unlike chickens who can eat right away.
I don’t understand what you said and did. Sorry
The very basic idea is to hatch as naturally as possible.. Unless you are in a dry arid environment, you do not need to add humidity until lockdown, and that would be no higher than 65%.
@@haireyhomestead3820 thank you!
@@Jndlove Thank you for watching.
Who can help me understand, because English is my second language.
What language is good for you?
I have used google translator to translate some of the video content into Vietnamese.
I hope this helps Tôi đã sử dụng google dịch để dịch một số nội dung video sang tiếng Việt.
Tôi hi vọng cái này giúp được
Chuyển sang phương pháp ấp khô giúp tôi có tỷ lệ nở 100%.
Tôi không mong đợi điều đó mọi lúc, nhưng nó đã được chứng minh là phương pháp tốt nhất cho tôi cho đến nay.
Tôi không thể không nghĩ về một cửa sập tự nhiên. Gà mái dậy đi kiếm ăn và chủ yếu sử dụng độ ẩm môi trường xung quanh.
Cô ấy không thể thêm nước. Và đúng vậy, ngay cả trong tự nhiên, không phải tất cả các quả trứng đều nở - quá ướt, quá khô, quá nóng, quá lạnh.
Tuy nhiên, chúng tôi có thể tạo ra một môi trường hoàn hảo để có tỷ lệ nở lớn, vì vậy HÃY HÃY TÌM HIỂU. Xin chào, chào mừng đến với kênh của tôi. Hôm nay chúng ta sẽ tìm hiểu cách làm khô nở.
Điều này sẽ mô phỏng quá trình nở tự nhiên.
Đặt trứng của bạn vào lồng ấp.
Không thêm độ ẩm cho cây thông nước, trừ khi nó rất khô.
Ngày 1-18 độ ẩm nên từ 15% đến 30%
Ngày 18-21 độ ẩm nên từ 60% đến 65%.
Điều này có thể khiến một số trứng nở muộn hơn 21 ngày một chút.
Cung cấp cho nó khoảng 24 ngày.
Nếu nghi ngờ gà còn sống hay không, bạn có thể sử dụng phương pháp "Phao" để xem gà còn sống hay không.
sống bên trong trứng. Bởi vì sau một vài tuần, gà con có rất ít chỗ để di chuyển và nó sẽ
khó nhìn thấy trong quá trình thắp nến. Vì vậy, với phương pháp này, bạn đang sử dụng độ ẩm xung quanh, là độ ẩm trong không khí xung quanh bạn.
Bạn sẽ thấy rằng máy đo độ ẩm của tôi ghi 30% - đó là độ ẩm môi trường xung quanh.
Tuy nhiên, nhiệt độ không chính xác ở đây, vì tôi đã mở lồng ấp và di chuyển mọi thứ xung quanh một chút.
Vì vậy, độ ẩm ngày 1-18 nên từ 15% đến 30%. Sau đó vào ngày 18 là khóa. Ngừng đảo trứng và sau đó từ ngày 18-21 độ ẩm phải từ 60% đến 65%.
Vui lòng sử dụng hướng dẫn trong hình để xem túi khí của bạn trong quá trình thắp nến. Hình minh họa sẽ cho bạn biết túi khí phải lớn như thế nào để có thể nở thành công.
Gà sẽ chui qua màng để hít thở không khí. Túi khí phải có đủ không khí để tồn tại cho đến khi nó xuyên qua vỏ. Sau đó, nó có thể thở và tự hoàn thành cửa sập.
Đảm bảo chúng không quá ướt (độ ẩm cao) vì điều này sẽ khiến gà con bị chết đuối trước khi có cơ hội nở.
Tôi sẽ đốt chúng ngay bây giờ, vào ngày 12, vì thắp nến quá sớm có thể không cho thấy nhiều chuyển động và bạn có thể ném quả trứng đó ra ngoài vì nghĩ rằng nó đã chết. Nến quá muộn có thể làm co lại lớp bọc của gà con đang phát triển thêm và sẵn sàng nở. Việc đưa gà ra khỏi lồng ấp muộn sẽ làm màng co lại và quấn chặt gà con. Nó sẽ chết và không thể nở được. Trong khi soi trứng, bạn sẽ thấy gà con (vùng tối) Nếu nhìn kỹ, bạn sẽ thấy nó di chuyển. (Xem video từ phút thứ 2:57 đến 3:00).
Nhìn từ phút 3:00 - 3:10.
Từ trái sang phải, Cao, Chính xác, Bao khí thấp.
Ngày 19 - Ai đó đã sẵn sàng phá cửa. Độ ẩm môi trường là 76%. Rất cao, nhưng tôi đã không thêm nước. Đây là một ngày ẩm ướt - miễn là không quá ẩm trong thời gian quá dài, điều này sẽ ổn - hãy quan sát túi khí.
Gieo có sự khác biệt giữa độ ẩm bên ngoài máy ấp và bên trong máy ấp.
Cả hai đều ở mức cao 70.
Đối với một số giống gà con, bạn có thể cho biết giới tính (giới tính) nếu đó là gà trống - chúng sẽ có một chấm trắng trên đầu.
Nếu gà mái bị trống (có lông sọc) thì đây thường là cách bạn có thể phân biệt gà trống với gà mái.
Đây là Bruce và con gà mái của anh ấy.
Bruce, BẠN là cha. Bởi vì gà con cũng có lông chân. Bruce là con gà trống duy nhất có đôi chân đầy lông vũ.
Igor, bạn không phải là cha.
Layik
Teşekkür ederim. Görüyorum ki bir sürü pilicin var. Civcivlerinizi genellikle nasıl yumurtadan çıkarıyorsunuz?
Nice
Thank you - hoping for some funky chickens hatching in spring
Your music is too loud and irritating, can listen to you talking.
We could understand you much better without the music PLEASE!! You sound like your in a tunnel.
I tried to cut the music out or at least turn the volume down, but I'd have to redo the entire video, because the software I used cannot be edited after the video is deleted from the project list. I may just redo it all. But will need to use new clips too. 😊 thanks