Thanks for taking the time to make this video, it was a real help. Got an SE Custom a couple a weeks ago (used) from Reverb and have been fighting with this problem ever since. PRS web site wasn’t any help and neither was PRS support who wrote send it in for repair naturally at a premium price. Nowhere in the PRS specs is it stated how much clearance the screws should have. Must be some sort of secret handshake thing I would imagine. Thanks again, you’ve solved my dilemma.
I just bought the Carlos Santana double cut SE, can't wait to get it. I have purchased the PRS screws for a couple Strats/Super Strats (Kramer Baretta Specials) and they work fantastic. ANYONE who has a strat style bridge with 6 screws benefits from these PRS screws. It helps with tuning stability and the feel of the trem, and floatabikity. Huge win.
According to Prs support , Adjust the claw screws about 1/4 turn at a time until the bridge floats parallel to the strings and about 1/16th off the body , that 1,6 mm.
If you need to adjust the screws on your PRS trem this is how you do it.Using a 2 1/2 mm allen wrench as a feeler gauge (the flat side) it should be a slight drag,I've found it's best to tighten down and then loosen, to find the correct height and get the screws exactly even with each other. Don't forget to remove strings(put a piece of cardboard under the rear of the bridge),and trem springs before you adjust and when finished (springs and strings back in place and in tune) the bridge should be about 1 1/2 mm floating off the body front and back.Good job...
But that's not what the PRS tech says, about the distance between the bottom of the bridge and the body. ruclips.net/video/m5rLleUlUHQ/видео.htmlsi=bg3Fq1SyDOYfKtP4
@@enmanuelleonmusicthe tech said about 1/16 off the body which is the same as 1 1/2 mm as long as its the same front and back and level with the strings...
Thanks for this video. I picked up a used custom 24 SE and I couldn't get it to stay in tune. Set it up per your instructions and the trem works great and it stays in tune perfectly!
Great video thanks, just got my first PRS, not a fan of the screws direct into the wood as they and the wood will weaken over time. I guess he did it for sustain but I prefer the modern 2 pin strat into the 2 steel sockets as these can be adjusted metal on metal as opposed to metal on wood, there's only one winner over time and it ain't the wood which being the body is fundamental to the instrument
You can use a Popsicle stick and put it under the back of your tremolo under it and then restring it with the same strings and it should bring you right back to where. Hope this helps.
Hi. Thanks for video. Good in terms of how to adjust those 6 tremolo screws, most people don't relax both string and spring tension. Easy way to ruin the knife edges by not eliminating the tension completely. Relating to the noise you are hearing I think it's mechanical coming from the strings above the nut and from the tremolo. Try placing velco around the strings between the nut and the tuners (or tie a sock around if you want to test it quickly), and place paper, foam, rubber whatever you think is easiest for you inside the tremolo springs, then try again and see if those high frequencies are reduced or eliminated. Regards.
PRS says, from the factory, the Core model bridge height is 2/32" off the body. That's 1.59mm. They mention it in this video: ruclips.net/video/fNElmHAA8kE/видео.htmlsi=fJzizYQkLgESD-hF
Interesting video, this may be a good way of setting up your floating bridge, but this will still not ensure correct action height or cure your "dinks" - which may have been caused by too low an action, not enough relief, poor fret levelling, or even some other cause. Still thank you for submitting a useful video.
ThankYou So Much!!!! I follow your step Solve my 10year problem!!!! No One talk the Floating Bridge height!!!! My PRS SE Singlecut have same Noise Problem .. Only G and B STRING 5-12 fret buzz / machine noise 12Fret height:3/32 NOW!!!! I follow your step and truss rod ... 12Fret: 2/32 and no noise
I'm sorry, I don't know the answer to that. I would try to find out the exact spec of the height that PRS says they should be at and then try to find some type of key or tool that matches that amount, and use it like I used the allen key here.
What if we don't want a floating bridge? I have a Santana SE with a trem but I never use it. If I palm mute it starts warbling sharp, so I tightened the internal springs all the way to keep the bridge tight and level
I haves problem that if I am palm muting and my hand is resting on the trem bridge it’s so sensitive I get unwanted vibrato and it won’t stay in tune no locking tuners it’s a week old swamp ash special but no dinks anywhere , so with checking and if needed screw adjustment will that solve my issues? Thank you
It’s nothing todo with action that’s a personal setting that shouldn’t affect the tremolo it’s just the quality of the SE models that cheap I have core USA models and they are fine I found the tension on the springs are critical the nut has to be changed and locking tuners help or lock string winding
Although I did put an allen of 2.5mm underneath to measure it, after tuning the guitar and adjust the springs for the tremolo to be parallel to the body, the tremolo seats only almost 1 mm above the body..? Any thoughts? It's a CE24 2007.
No, my expertise is minimal at best for this. The manns video that showed me this technique might link you to other helpful ones. See the description for that link.
@@theforgedone nope I left it like that. I guess if you want more backwards move of the tremolo you have to go further more than the 2.5mm but then if you are a low string action type like me, consider that going more high, I mean the tremolo off the body, you are limiting the string height because even if the string saddles are set to all the way down, you re not going to have some low or very low action which I want fot the CE24, because of the more floating tremolo off the body. Cheers.
At some point in the Mann video, he says the bridge should be about 1/16th inch above the body. But, he also says that's ballpark, and if you need to raise or lower the 6 screws to get the bridge to float properly, you can do that. I would try a 3mm allen as a feeler, and see if that half MM makes the bride sit at a better height.
This definitely helped with the action and the playability of my CE24 so thank you very much. The way it's set now really plays fast and i love it! The only thing I'm not happy with yet is that the floating tremolo almost sits on the back of the guitar and not parallel to the body. If that's the price for low action, I'm happy to pay it, but ideally that should be fixable. If anyone got a solution for that, I'd be grateful!
Adjust the claw screws (back side under the plate). Looser let’s it tilt forward, probably what you need, tighter pulls it back. There are many videos.
I appreciate you taking the time to make this. Decided to try my hand at doing my own setup and this specific point was something I couldn't find elsewhere. I'm having an issue though, I can't get the action where I want it with these screws set to this height. What could I be doing wrong?
Gotta set them to that height and not really touch them. It would either be the two hex screws in the saddles individually or your truss rod isn’t set right. If you have trouble with that, take it to a local pro.
Yeah I’m sorry about that. The manns video shows the strip much clearer. Essentially you use the 2.5 Allen hex key as a spacer underneath and tighten the screw down until the Allen stops it, just snug to that point and then do all the others like the first.
Saddles. Don’t mess with the screws once you’ve gotten them to the correct height. That level isn’t subjective, it needs to be precise. Then, the saddle heights are preferential.
There’s nothing to be afraid of if you grasp how it works and have no tension on it when you do so. If one doesn’t understand the mechanism of it, then I agree they should take it to a qualified luthier, however I took mine to a local luthier once who didn’t settle the divots equally and the baseplate jumped off on that screw, so I learned how to do it for myself 🤷♂️
@@vaiisking if they NEED to be aligned then yes that’s how it should be done but those “dinks” are from your neck not having enough relief. Not from the height of the bridge. Two totally different repairs.
@@CapeAlan actually think I also had a little bit of uneven frets happening. However the height consistency by PRS specs standards makes the allen hex tool technique a good thing to do because it sets them to a perfect level for each one without “guessing”
@@vaiisking I would just hate someone to watch this video thinking this is how you adjust the bridge on a PRS. IMO what you’re doing here is a last resort after truss rod, action, intonation, and then a fret level and dress.
@@CapeAlan but the responsibility to know when it is needed falls on each of us. If an actual reason to do this for whatever reason (bridge replacement, pawn shop find, poor local ,etc) then IMO, this is the method to use.
Intente hacerlo por mi mismo, al no lograrlo la lleve a una “lauderia profesional” y tampoco lo consiguieron y solo terminaron arruinando el acabado de mi hermosa guitarra…
@@vaiisking Realmente no había realizado este método con llave Allen, pero ayer justo después de comentar, fui a comprar una llave Allen, y logre ajustar los seis tornillos, quedo fenomenal!! Lastima que el acabado haya sido dañado por terceros…
I would not touch those trem screws either- if you’re at that point, you need a pro to set up your guitar, the trem screws on PRS guitars are extremely fragile. I hope folks do not take the advice of this video.
They are screws. They are meant to be touched. This is a great video if you understand the concept of what's being taught. All six screw need to be exactly the same height. Using the allen wrench as a feeler guage is a great way to do it.
Thanks for taking the time to make this video, it was a real help. Got an SE Custom a couple a weeks ago (used) from Reverb and have been fighting with this problem ever since. PRS web site wasn’t any help and neither was PRS support who wrote send it in for repair naturally at a premium price. Nowhere in the PRS specs is it stated how much clearance the screws should have. Must be some sort of secret handshake thing I would imagine. Thanks again, you’ve solved my dilemma.
I just bought the Carlos Santana double cut SE, can't wait to get it.
I have purchased the PRS screws for a couple Strats/Super Strats (Kramer Baretta Specials) and they work fantastic. ANYONE who has a strat style bridge with 6 screws benefits from these PRS screws. It helps with tuning stability and the feel of the trem, and floatabikity. Huge win.
According to Prs support , Adjust the claw screws about 1/4 turn at a time until the bridge floats parallel to the strings and about 1/16th off the body , that 1,6 mm.
If you need to adjust the screws on your PRS trem this is how you do it.Using a 2 1/2 mm allen wrench as a feeler gauge (the flat side) it should be a slight drag,I've found it's best to tighten down and then loosen, to find the correct height and get the screws exactly even with each other. Don't forget to remove strings(put a piece of cardboard under the rear of the bridge),and trem springs before you adjust and when finished (springs and strings back in place and in tune) the bridge should be about 1 1/2 mm floating off the body front and back.Good job...
But that's not what the PRS tech says, about the distance between the bottom of the bridge and the body. ruclips.net/video/m5rLleUlUHQ/видео.htmlsi=bg3Fq1SyDOYfKtP4
@@enmanuelleonmusicthe tech said about 1/16 off the body which is the same as 1 1/2 mm as long as its the same front and back and level with the strings...
Thanks for this video. I picked up a used custom 24 SE and I couldn't get it to stay in tune. Set it up per your instructions and the trem works great and it stays in tune perfectly!
Glad it helped you :)
Great video thanks, just got my first PRS, not a fan of the screws direct into the wood as they and the wood will weaken over time. I guess he did it for sustain but I prefer the modern 2 pin strat into the 2 steel sockets as these can be adjusted metal on metal as opposed to metal on wood, there's only one winner over time and it ain't the wood which being the body is fundamental to the instrument
You can use a Popsicle stick and put it under the back of your tremolo under it and then restring it with the same strings and it should bring you right back to where. Hope this helps.
much appreciated
That's brilliant :) just got an PRS for the first time and it was bugging me a lot :)
I think that buzz is also from your neck. I think it needs more relief.
It might be but I have a straightedge and some feeler gauges that I had set that with.
awesome. great job. looking forward to trying this
Hi. Thanks for video. Good in terms of how to adjust those 6 tremolo screws, most people don't relax both string and spring tension. Easy way to ruin the knife edges by not eliminating the tension completely.
Relating to the noise you are hearing I think it's mechanical coming from the strings above the nut and from the tremolo. Try placing velco around the strings between the nut and the tuners (or tie a sock around if you want to test it quickly), and place paper, foam, rubber whatever you think is easiest for you inside the tremolo springs, then try again and see if those high frequencies are reduced or eliminated. Regards.
I’ll try those things as soon as my hand heals and I can play again, thank you.
PRS says, from the factory, the Core model bridge height is 2/32" off the body. That's 1.59mm. They mention it in this video:
ruclips.net/video/fNElmHAA8kE/видео.htmlsi=fJzizYQkLgESD-hF
The 2 mm Allen would give it a little extra height in this case.
Interesting video, this may be a good way of setting up your floating bridge, but this will still not ensure correct action height or cure your "dinks" - which may have been caused by too low an action, not enough relief, poor fret levelling, or even some other cause. Still thank you for submitting a useful video.
Thanks a lot for sharing you knowledge!
ThankYou So Much!!!! I follow your step Solve my 10year problem!!!! No One talk the Floating Bridge height!!!!
My PRS SE Singlecut have same Noise Problem .. Only G and B STRING 5-12 fret buzz / machine noise 12Fret height:3/32
NOW!!!! I follow your step and truss rod ... 12Fret: 2/32 and no noise
Is there a version of this method for the gen 3 tremolo? It has different shaped screws that don’t ‘catch’ with an Allen key like the gen 2 screws do
I'm sorry, I don't know the answer to that. I would try to find out the exact spec of the height that PRS says they should be at and then try to find some type of key or tool that matches that amount, and use it like I used the allen key here.
What if we don't want a floating bridge? I have a Santana SE with a trem but I never use it. If I palm mute it starts warbling sharp, so I tightened the internal springs all the way to keep the bridge tight and level
I wouldn’t. I’d try to get a fixed bridge, personally… maybe a McCarty.
I haves problem that if I am palm muting and my hand is resting on the trem bridge it’s so sensitive I get unwanted vibrato and it won’t stay in tune no locking tuners it’s a week old swamp ash special but no dinks anywhere , so with checking and if needed screw adjustment will that solve my issues? Thank you
action will affect it all for sure...neck relief, string height, intonation...all of it. have your local pro check all that.
It’s nothing todo with action that’s a personal setting that shouldn’t affect the tremolo it’s just the quality of the SE models that cheap I have core USA models and they are fine I found the tension on the springs are critical the nut has to be changed and locking tuners help or lock string winding
Thanks friend. I like the Saddle Savers. 😁👍
Although I did put an allen of 2.5mm underneath to measure it, after tuning the guitar and adjust the springs for the tremolo to be parallel to the body, the tremolo seats only almost 1 mm above the body..? Any thoughts? It's a CE24 2007.
No, my expertise is minimal at best for this. The manns video that showed me this technique might link you to other helpful ones. See the description for that link.
Did you find a solution? I also tried Mann's video and ended up with a similar situation
@@theforgedone nope I left it like that. I guess if you want more backwards move of the tremolo you have to go further more than the 2.5mm but then if you are a low string action type like me, consider that going more high, I mean the tremolo off the body, you are limiting the string height because even if the string saddles are set to all the way down, you re not going to have some low or very low action which I want fot the CE24, because of the more floating tremolo off the body. Cheers.
At some point in the Mann video, he says the bridge should be about 1/16th inch above the body. But, he also says that's ballpark, and if you need to raise or lower the 6 screws to get the bridge to float properly, you can do that. I would try a 3mm allen as a feeler, and see if that half MM makes the bride sit at a better height.
This definitely helped with the action and the playability of my CE24 so thank you very much. The way it's set now really plays fast and i love it! The only thing I'm not happy with yet is that the floating tremolo almost sits on the back of the guitar and not parallel to the body. If that's the price for low action, I'm happy to pay it, but ideally that should be fixable. If anyone got a solution for that, I'd be grateful!
Can you post a pic? Mine is parallel
Adjust the claw screws (back side under the plate). Looser let’s it tilt forward, probably what you need, tighter pulls it back. There are many videos.
How low is your action? I have a CE24 with problems.
@@MaxPower-js1sk my CE 24 came with the bridge too high. Even lowering the saddles all the way, action was still ~2mm. Odd slip from PRS.
You could have just adjusted the sting saddles..
I appreciate you taking the time to make this. Decided to try my hand at doing my own setup and this specific point was something I couldn't find elsewhere.
I'm having an issue though, I can't get the action where I want it with these screws set to this height. What could I be doing wrong?
Gotta set them to that height and not really touch them. It would either be the two hex screws in the saddles individually or your truss rod isn’t set right. If you have trouble with that, take it to a local pro.
Thank you for taking the time to reply. Appreciate the response.
Just picked up a CE and I've had strat trems and Floyd's, but wasn't to sure about this, so thanks for the info. Subscribed 👍
I can't see what you're doing. Your fingers are in the way.
Yeah I’m sorry about that. The manns video shows the strip much clearer. Essentially you use the 2.5 Allen hex key as a spacer underneath and tighten the screw down until the Allen stops it, just snug to that point and then do all the others like the first.
If your action was a touch too high, should you lower each of these 6 screws equally or adjust all the saddles one at a time?
Saddles. Don’t mess with the screws once you’ve gotten them to the correct height. That level isn’t subjective, it needs to be precise. Then, the saddle heights are preferential.
Can you do a video for a string hight (action), what strings are best to you for which play-style etc....? 🙏🏻
I’ll consider this for a video idea, thanks for the feedback
Can you post the video link for the mans trem please?
m.ruclips.net/video/cHA_xu844Rs/видео.html
Many thanks for the video!
thanks for the info..but, most of the detail was hidden by the camera angle with your hand in the way.
I’m not the best cinematographer…
Thats a gorgeous PRS. Sorry if youve answered this already, what bridge have you upgraded that to?
Thanks for the compliment! The bridge is stock but the saddles were updated to graphtech (as well as the locking tuners)
how would you adjust the action if it was too high?
Via each saddle, independently. Since there is a definite “height” that gets imposed by the trem screws, that has a little less flexibility
Good on you to make this...the guy who invented this bridge has a video but it's hard to find
Thanks man, gonna try this
Never played it afterward to see if the dinks were gone?
Dinks weren’t completely removed but vastly improved. Those frets are quite low and I may end up getting a new neck or a refret in the future
preety hand !
Are those saddles the String Saver Graphtech saddles?
Yes they are!
Nice! I have those same saddles on my SE. Safe to assume they would also fit my American Custom 24 S2?
Thanks for the reply.
Yep I believe the scale is identical.
What are those black saddles? Where did ypu find those bro?
Graphtech saddles, highly recommend.
Can you tell what saddles model is that ? I gonna buy them Btw what is the difference beside they look super cool ?
Graphtech is made of material that keeps the strings from breaking as much.
You don’t need a notched screw for this vibrato bridge. Paul is a creative designer but not a good engineer.
I’ve heard many say this too
Sounds like you're just picking too hard. You need a truss rod adjustment or have to raise the bridge saddles
I still use this as my backup, great guitars!
You should have card under the back edge of the bridge or you will end up with bridge bite in the body !
Next time
I have to try this... :-) thanks
Thank you so very much
Relieving your truss rod would be a better fix for this. I wouldn’t recommend anyone adjusting those tremolo screws.
There’s nothing to be afraid of if you grasp how it works and have no tension on it when you do so. If one doesn’t understand the mechanism of it, then I agree they should take it to a qualified luthier, however I took mine to a local luthier once who didn’t settle the divots equally and the baseplate jumped off on that screw, so I learned how to do it for myself 🤷♂️
@@vaiisking if they NEED to be aligned then yes that’s how it should be done but those “dinks” are from your neck not having enough relief. Not from the height of the bridge. Two totally different repairs.
@@CapeAlan actually think I also had a little bit of uneven frets happening. However the height consistency by PRS specs standards makes the allen hex tool technique a good thing to do because it sets them to a perfect level for each one without “guessing”
@@vaiisking I would just hate someone to watch this video thinking this is how you adjust the bridge on a PRS. IMO what you’re doing here is a last resort after truss rod, action, intonation, and then a fret level and dress.
@@CapeAlan but the responsibility to know when it is needed falls on each of us. If an actual reason to do this for whatever reason (bridge replacement, pawn shop find, poor local ,etc) then IMO, this is the method to use.
Nice hands, but I guess that's not why you made this video.
The bridge is too high… prs spec is 1/16 and level…… in mm it’s approximately 1.6mm.. i do appreciate the video though.
It’s been working for me!
Intente hacerlo por mi mismo, al no lograrlo la lleve a una “lauderia profesional” y tampoco lo consiguieron y solo terminaron arruinando el acabado de mi hermosa guitarra…
PRS trems are unique for sure and require someone with experience unless you are able to get this video to make sense and do it this way
@@vaiisking Realmente no había realizado este método con llave Allen, pero ayer justo después de comentar, fui a comprar una llave Allen, y logre ajustar los seis tornillos, quedo fenomenal!!
Lastima que el acabado haya sido dañado por terceros…
CANT SEE NOTHING !
I would not touch those trem screws either- if you’re at that point, you need a pro to set up your guitar, the trem screws on PRS guitars are extremely fragile. I hope folks do not take the advice of this video.
A year later and it’s still playing like butter.
They are screws. They are meant to be touched. This is a great video if you understand the concept of what's being taught. All six screw need to be exactly the same height. Using the allen wrench as a feeler guage is a great way to do it.
I screwed my PRS trem flush to the body , so much better imo 👍
Very unprofessional!
I am definitely not a professional, just intelligent and crafty.