I also just did the double camber bolt mod and love it. Adding front camber is so cheap but effective with these cars. Love balancing these cars at the limit using throttle and steering inputs. Btw if you want even more, you can get the pedders strut mounts and get another -0.75 degrees. Should put you slightly above -3 degrees with stock suspension.
my cousin threw an sme turbo kit on his giving it 230kw. the thing is an animal and he loves to drift. the clutch just barely handles the power, he'll probably upgrade it. i'll tell him about the camber.
@@jubbalandcars It did great until the end of the 3rd session. Melted the Endless MX72 brake pads and had a little off at Phil Hill. I have my fastest lap posted on my channel
2:21 "Woo!!" love that lil bit of opposite lock - so satisfying being right at the limit. What do you recommended for very first track day for a GR86? Would just brake pads be ok? Thanks and great driving!
I think for a first timer on track that should suffice in addition to brake fluid. You likely won’t push the car hard enough to necessitate most of the other mods. Brakes are super important since failure can be catastrophic
I fully understand that this channel is a passion project/hobby for Kevin but he said in another video that he loses on these videos. To fix this all he needs is more exposure so taking a 10sec clip form a video already posted he should just post a short because RUclips shorts is the new meta.
What 600 dollars are you referring to?😅 The Tires are more than 600 the wheels are more than 600, the jackson oil cooler is more then 600, the camber bolts are 50, Im confused altogether, I have a GR86, I can tell any prospective buyer straight off the rip. You are going to spend about 3-5k altogether track prepping this car. Wheels, tires, suspension depends but figure anywhere from 550 between camber bolts, and springs, stock dampers actually are fine, but Bilstein b14 is another option too. pads, oil cooler, aos, etc. But bottom line is all you need is better tires, camber bolts, pads, racing dot 4 brake fluid and an oil cooler. Intake and Exhaust or not gonna do anything for you really, your biggest gains will be minor brake upgrades, control arms bc track alignment, coilovers will not make a huge difference or much at all, Especially compared to good aftermarket springs on stock dampers, or if youre looking at budget coilovers of BC😅, If KW SPORT is in you budget by all means, but dont waste your money on BC for example if your tracking it, they're good for drifting or just being a low boy, but a worse option than Bilstein B14s for example
I went 17x9 +45 offset and RT660 245/40/17 tires on stock suspension. The fitment was supppper tight no camber adjustments from the knuckle was allowed. Guess after market suspension or camber plates only.
I got exactly the same camber as you 2.4° in front with camber bolts (I got both top and bottom). Rear stock is at 1.6°. I haven't bothered with wheels and tires yet. I am not at all as aggressive as you, so I got ferodo ds2500 pads and SRF fluid. I don't think I will need an oil cooler for the next 2 years at least (I am in a colder climate, WA state, and have a lot to learn).
Do the camber bolts cause extra tire wear? I'm wondering if I should use them for daily driving? I plan to do most/all of my driving on the street. I haven't been to a race track before....only raced RC cars haha
@@jubbalandcars ok gotcha. I picked up a halo 6spd last month. Gonna sign up for the comp NASA track day but I've never done a track day b4 so I'll probably keep it bone stock.
I asked you about this a while ago on an older video (waaay before you added negative camber) so you might have already answered this, but did adding camber have any noticeable affect on the deadspot you'd mentioned in the middle of the steering?
@@jubbalandcars damn, very nice! Thank you. I will be running in March, and will monitor oil temps and see where she sits. Glad to hear you got new rubber! The Primacy HP's broke loose easily for me, so I have been running Conti DWS06. Would love to eventually get dedicated track wheel/tire setup
didnt you just change it to be more like the brz? the differences are limited between the 2 but from my understanding in the difference in suspension design the brz is meant to grip and the 86 is meant to slide.
@@jubbalandcars you mentioned in the video crash bolts and camber bolts so I didn't understand. Do you mean 2 camber bolt (14 & 16 mm) or 1 camber bolt and 1 crash bolt (14 mm from lower clevis in top clevis) at every side?
I’m thinking of buying one, to engine swap it, considering because the gr86 is pretty, really light, and I heard it had so many options to tuning and ect, and it’s respected by tons of JDM members, does anyone know any engine swaps or mods that are worth to making the car faster ? Add more hp
If you are going to just swap it buy an FRS for 1/3 the price. Roughly the same chassis, but with all the extra money you save you could add chassis stiffeners to bring it truly up to the same level. And you'd be able to do brakes, tires, etc to outdo the GR.
Surprising loss of grip when she breaks. Doesn't look too neutral, looks like lots of understeer to me. I'd kill the rear camber and dial back the front a little bit. You're sawing a lot hunting for front grip. What do the laptimes say?
The OEM Torsen LSD completely kills the performance at the limit, he didn't even push hard and the rear end quickly and constantly lost traction, the car is just trash because of it, fortunately aftermarket is here.
I also just did the double camber bolt mod and love it. Adding front camber is so cheap but effective with these cars. Love balancing these cars at the limit using throttle and steering inputs. Btw if you want even more, you can get the pedders strut mounts and get another -0.75 degrees. Should put you slightly above -3 degrees with stock suspension.
great write up. These are all the small things I did to my 86 to get it track worthy.
my cousin threw an sme turbo kit on his giving it 230kw. the thing is an animal and he loves to drift.
the clutch just barely handles the power, he'll probably upgrade it. i'll tell him about the camber.
Car looked good out there 👍
Thanks Leonard and was great seeing you this weekend! How was the IS500?
@@jubbalandcars It did great until the end of the 3rd session. Melted the Endless MX72 brake pads and had a little off at Phil Hill. I have my fastest lap posted on my channel
2:21 "Woo!!" love that lil bit of opposite lock - so satisfying being right at the limit. What do you recommended for very first track day for a GR86? Would just brake pads be ok? Thanks and great driving!
I think for a first timer on track that should suffice in addition to brake fluid. You likely won’t push the car hard enough to necessitate most of the other mods. Brakes are super important since failure can be catastrophic
Thank you for the video! Can't wait to track mines one day
I fully understand that this channel is a passion project/hobby for Kevin but he said in another video that he loses on these videos. To fix this all he needs is more exposure so taking a 10sec clip form a video already posted he should just post a short because RUclips shorts is the new meta.
What 600 dollars are you referring to?😅 The Tires are more than 600 the wheels are more than 600, the jackson oil cooler is more then 600, the camber bolts are 50, Im confused altogether, I have a GR86, I can tell any prospective buyer straight off the rip. You are going to spend about 3-5k altogether track prepping this car. Wheels, tires, suspension depends but figure anywhere from 550 between camber bolts, and springs, stock dampers actually are fine, but Bilstein b14 is another option too. pads, oil cooler, aos, etc. But bottom line is all you need is better tires, camber bolts, pads, racing dot 4 brake fluid and an oil cooler. Intake and Exhaust or not gonna do anything for you really, your biggest gains will be minor brake upgrades, control arms bc track alignment, coilovers will not make a huge difference or much at all, Especially compared to good aftermarket springs on stock dampers, or if youre looking at budget coilovers of BC😅, If KW SPORT is in you budget by all means, but dont waste your money on BC for example if your tracking it, they're good for drifting or just being a low boy, but a worse option than Bilstein B14s for example
How did you decide on wheels and tires? I've been considering 17x8.5 on 245/40r17 Michelin PS4S rather than a dedicated track wheel/tire combo.
1. Aesthetics (gold a bit loud in hindsight but yolo), 2. weight, 3. price
17x8 or 17x8.5 are both good sizes for track
I went 17x9 +45 offset and RT660 245/40/17 tires on stock suspension. The fitment was supppper tight no camber adjustments from the knuckle was allowed. Guess after market suspension or camber plates only.
@@LozanoMotoRacing it didn't rub on stock suspension at all? Even at hard bumps?
I got exactly the same camber as you 2.4° in front with camber bolts (I got both top and bottom). Rear stock is at 1.6°. I haven't bothered with wheels and tires yet. I am not at all as aggressive as you, so I got ferodo ds2500 pads and SRF fluid. I don't think I will need an oil cooler for the next 2 years at least (I am in a colder climate, WA state, and have a lot to learn).
Enjoy!
Wow that was extremely quiet. Shift beep is the only sound I can hear.
Yes I disabled the fake engine noise
@@jubbalandcarsthe fake engine noise is great for track driving though
Excellent review thank you! Did you feel like you didn’t need a front strut brace?
I’d need to drive with and without to compare
Great job man! Do you have tried to film your footwork for this video? :)
Did not film footwork but can consider doing so in future ones!
@@jubbalandcars Great, thank you! ;)
Do the camber bolts cause extra tire wear? I'm wondering if I should use them for daily driving? I plan to do most/all of my driving on the street. I haven't been to a race track before....only raced RC cars haha
It would cause slightly more wear on the inside
Great video. How does front camber and the new tire change the steering response ?
Steering feedback similar. Turn in is sharper
looks like the car drove real nice, title says for $600 but you had to have spent more than that.
$600 referring to the most recent mods of tires and camber bolts. The other mods that came before were additional $
Nice review. Did you record times and get a before and after mods?
Only drove this track with the mods. Last time I drove was with my FRS. Fastest time with GR86 this weekend was 2:06:05 with passenger in car
@@jubbalandcars ok gotcha. I picked up a halo 6spd last month. Gonna sign up for the comp NASA track day but I've never done a track day b4 so I'll probably keep it bone stock.
Hi, may I ask, how tall are you?
6’1”
I asked you about this a while ago on an older video (waaay before you added negative camber) so you might have already answered this, but did adding camber have any noticeable affect on the deadspot you'd mentioned in the middle of the steering?
Good question I’ll have to pay attention to that next time I drive it
Curious how the oil temps were. Did the oil cooler work well? Grip is def key! Good rubber and DOT4 fluid is all you need to get started 👍🏼
Didn’t get past 215. Cold day helps a lot
@@jubbalandcars damn, very nice! Thank you. I will be running in March, and will monitor oil temps and see where she sits. Glad to hear you got new rubber! The Primacy HP's broke loose easily for me, so I have been running Conti DWS06. Would love to eventually get dedicated track wheel/tire setup
@@jubbalandcars Are you using the standalone oil cooler from Jackson or the integrated radiator/oil-cooler combo from Jackson?
What's your clearance to the strut with that much camber? I was only able to get -1.5
didnt you just change it to be more like the brz? the differences are limited between the 2 but from my understanding in the difference in suspension design the brz is meant to grip and the 86 is meant to slide.
Sounds like you just made a BRZ (suspension-wise)?
Would you think a Model 3 is more enjoyable driving on track compared to the GR86?
Definitely not
$600???... Where do you buy your tires and wheels?
seems like stock will do better on drift track
Can you give me a link to Crash & SPC Camber Bolts
Did u use 2 camber bolts at every side to get this camber?
Yes
@@jubbalandcars you mentioned in the video crash bolts and camber bolts so I didn't understand. Do you mean 2 camber bolt (14 & 16 mm) or 1 camber bolt and 1 crash bolt (14 mm from lower clevis in top clevis) at every side?
Does that camber wear out your tires faster?
I’m thinking of buying one, to engine swap it, considering because the gr86 is pretty, really light, and I heard it had so many options to tuning and ect, and it’s respected by tons of JDM members, does anyone know any engine swaps or mods that are worth to making the car faster ? Add more hp
If you are going to just swap it buy an FRS for 1/3 the price. Roughly the same chassis, but with all the extra money you save you could add chassis stiffeners to bring it truly up to the same level. And you'd be able to do brakes, tires, etc to outdo the GR.
@@fastec5 bet! Thanks, finna try some good stuff on it, 💯 get myself a good engine swap to make the FRS go faster thanks
Surprising loss of grip when she breaks. Doesn't look too neutral, looks like lots of understeer to me. I'd kill the rear camber and dial back the front a little bit. You're sawing a lot hunting for front grip. What do the laptimes say?
Not a lot of understeer. I wouldn’t say sawing hunting for grip, rather correction for oversteer. Breaks grip sharply because of tires
@@jubbalandcars Sweet! It's really hard to see on video when the back end is moving around slightly. Maybe I'll consider this too
What brand of tow hooks are you using?
Cusco
@@jubbalandcars thank you!
What mount are you using for your phone?
Ghetto rigged magnet mount plus superglue
Are you running 0w-20?
5w30
The OEM Torsen LSD completely kills the performance at the limit, he didn't even push hard and the rear end quickly and constantly lost traction, the car is just trash because of it, fortunately aftermarket is here.
wouldn't you have just gone faster on the highway?
you regularly drive >100 on the highway?
Straight line = boring