I stopped using UV because the water has to be filtered first down to 5 micron to keep the tube from clouding over and blocking the UV light. I filter afterwards. also I use a 15 micron spin-down filter from the well as it goes into the IBC Tote. This reduces sediment and helps the ozone work better.
Excellent as usual Eric. Update on the homestead out here: We just finished installing and passed the inspection on the trenching and installing of the conduit for the electric line that will get pulled into the build site, almost 1500'! That was a LOT of work for my husband and me. The pole barn is about 2 - 3 weeks out from being completed. Got all the posts and trusses in, and one side has all the side girts on. Still have the other three walls of girts to install and the purlins, then we can put the insulation wrap on the walls and roof and start installing the metal siding and roofing. We'll start by pulling power into and wiring the barn so it can be our shop and base of operations to build our house from and store all the building supplies locked up under cover over the next couple of years it takes us to build it (mostly DIY). We're pretty excited about our progress on everything this summer and are particularly happy we haven't yet had to take out any loans, paying as we've gone along. We have been having a little trouble this summer with an airlock forming in the pipe that goes from the spring box to the gravity feed storage tank because although the storage tank is lower than the spring, the pipe runs quite a ways uphill before going back down hill again to the tank. So when the flow of the spring goes way down towards the end of the summer, there's not enough water to keep the 1" line filled, so air gets into the line and lets the water run backwards down the pipe and then it just sets there because there's not enough pressure in the line to overcome the gravity as it's lost the siphon. BUT, we found another spring on the property straight up from that very tank! It's flow is pretty slow at this point too, but it's still constant and it's a straight downhill shot from it to the tank! Wo if we tap that spring and run it to the tank to keep it full we shouldn't have that problem anymore. Once that's hooked up, we can then add another tank right there below the original spring and pipe THAT water straight down to our new house site. So that means we'll have TWO gravity feel systems on the land; one that feeds the original pole barn way down on the southern border of the land, AND one that will feed the house and shop that are being build more towards the center of the property about 2000' north of the southern pole barn. It may be a bit of a challenge tapping that second spring but I think we can figure it out, especially since we've learned so much from your channel. 🙏 We're going to love having that redundancy in our water system, particularly because we won't be drilling a well and it gets awful dry here in the summer. We'll catch water off the house and shop too down below and use a solar powered pump to pump that uphill in summer to keep the water aerated and up high in little ponds up there to use for gravity feed irrigation as well as defend against any fires. But in winter, all the springs go way up to hundreds of GPM, so no worries about having plenty of water in winter. Looking forward to installing one of these UV lights in our lines into the house and barn so it's potable water. We'll put in a filtration system too as there's bound to be a bit of clay/silt in the water as well and we don't want to clog up appliances or shower nozzles.
I replaced our 12.5 Gallons Per Minute UV system with a plasma discharge Ozone generator used for Hot Tubs and a Danner Pond master AP-20 Air Pump. Ozone oxidizes better than UV, CL2 or Hydrogen peroxide. Total power used is 22 watts. Not only does it sterilize the water but it oxidizes or converts Iron and Manganese to a size the can be filtered out of the water and eliminates hydrogen sulfide. I fill a 275 gallon IBC Tote from our 60 foot deep well and treat the water with ozone. I then use a 12 volt SeaFlo 55 Series 60 psi @ 5.5 gpm water pump to supply the house. The pump is running from a 12 volt battery that is charged by solar. I filter with a 20, 5 and 1 micron polyester cleanable and reusable filter. I clean them with oxalic acid.
@@basecampwnc1745 for just the parts that replace the UV system. the Danner pump was $115, The two Del Ozone packs were $160, The ozone diffuser was $18, The silicone tubing was about $30. So around $323 My UV system was just a little more than that.
@@basecampwnc1745 I have watched your videos, almost from the start. however, for reference sake I have degrees in water and waste water and two Michigan wastewater licenses. I create things all the time.
👍😎
I stopped using UV because the water has to be filtered first down to 5 micron to keep the tube from clouding over and blocking the UV light. I filter afterwards. also I use a 15 micron spin-down filter from the well as it goes into the IBC Tote. This reduces sediment and helps the ozone work better.
Excellent as usual Eric.
Update on the homestead out here: We just finished installing and passed the inspection on the trenching and installing of the conduit for the electric line that will get pulled into the build site, almost 1500'! That was a LOT of work for my husband and me. The pole barn is about 2 - 3 weeks out from being completed. Got all the posts and trusses in, and one side has all the side girts on. Still have the other three walls of girts to install and the purlins, then we can put the insulation wrap on the walls and roof and start installing the metal siding and roofing. We'll start by pulling power into and wiring the barn so it can be our shop and base of operations to build our house from and store all the building supplies locked up under cover over the next couple of years it takes us to build it (mostly DIY). We're pretty excited about our progress on everything this summer and are particularly happy we haven't yet had to take out any loans, paying as we've gone along.
We have been having a little trouble this summer with an airlock forming in the pipe that goes from the spring box to the gravity feed storage tank because although the storage tank is lower than the spring, the pipe runs quite a ways uphill before going back down hill again to the tank. So when the flow of the spring goes way down towards the end of the summer, there's not enough water to keep the 1" line filled, so air gets into the line and lets the water run backwards down the pipe and then it just sets there because there's not enough pressure in the line to overcome the gravity as it's lost the siphon. BUT, we found another spring on the property straight up from that very tank! It's flow is pretty slow at this point too, but it's still constant and it's a straight downhill shot from it to the tank! Wo if we tap that spring and run it to the tank to keep it full we shouldn't have that problem anymore. Once that's hooked up, we can then add another tank right there below the original spring and pipe THAT water straight down to our new house site. So that means we'll have TWO gravity feel systems on the land; one that feeds the original pole barn way down on the southern border of the land, AND one that will feed the house and shop that are being build more towards the center of the property about 2000' north of the southern pole barn. It may be a bit of a challenge tapping that second spring but I think we can figure it out, especially since we've learned so much from your channel. 🙏
We're going to love having that redundancy in our water system, particularly because we won't be drilling a well and it gets awful dry here in the summer. We'll catch water off the house and shop too down below and use a solar powered pump to pump that uphill in summer to keep the water aerated and up high in little ponds up there to use for gravity feed irrigation as well as defend against any fires. But in winter, all the springs go way up to hundreds of GPM, so no worries about having plenty of water in winter.
Looking forward to installing one of these UV lights in our lines into the house and barn so it's potable water. We'll put in a filtration system too as there's bound to be a bit of clay/silt in the water as well and we don't want to clog up appliances or shower nozzles.
By the way, UV light breaks down pvc and pex pipe. you should never connect directly to the light fixture with anything but metal or copper tubing.
I just bought the same light for our 6000 gallon raincatchment system the light is a good deal for only 97.00... Keep it up brother
I replaced our 12.5 Gallons Per Minute UV system with a plasma discharge Ozone generator used for Hot Tubs and a Danner Pond master AP-20 Air Pump. Ozone oxidizes better than UV, CL2 or Hydrogen peroxide. Total power used is 22 watts. Not only does it sterilize the water but it oxidizes or converts Iron and Manganese to a size the can be filtered out of the water and eliminates hydrogen sulfide. I fill a 275 gallon IBC Tote from our 60 foot deep well and treat the water with ozone. I then use a 12 volt SeaFlo 55 Series 60 psi @ 5.5 gpm water pump to supply the house. The pump is running from a 12 volt battery that is charged by solar. I filter with a 20, 5 and 1 micron polyester cleanable and reusable filter. I clean them with oxalic acid.
All my filtering and spin down is at the cistern tank
From reading your post you must have watched my videos
Total cost of your system installed?
@@basecampwnc1745 for just the parts that replace the UV system. the Danner pump was $115, The two Del Ozone packs were $160, The ozone diffuser was $18, The silicone tubing was about $30. So around $323 My UV system was just a little more than that.
@@basecampwnc1745 I have watched your videos, almost from the start. however, for reference sake I have degrees in water and waste water and two Michigan wastewater licenses. I create things all the time.
Steven do u have any videos or pics of ur set up it seems pretty interesting...
Seems like UV light power should only activate when water flowing? Wasteful if always on.
Turning off and on lights shorten there life. Plus hard to set up. UV on air handlers are always on also.