I recently bought a 1990 Vulcan 750 that had been sitting for 10 years. Upon disassembly I found the carbs were just nasty! Like you, I have repaired all kinds of carbs. I actually serviced the carbs to as new as possible condition and reinstalled them on the bike, then ran across this video. Looks like we both have the same technique.👍The bike runs excellent now! It takes patience to do carb work, and I have lots of it. Thanks for the great video.
You didn't clean and check the coast enrichers, those round covers on the sides. If these stick closed you get backfire on decel, stuck open it runs rich. These carbs don't have an overflow, if the float chamber over fills, the gas flows into the cylinder. This can cause hydrolock or fill the crankcase with gas. 25:0825:08
This is very helpful.. I have to pull the carbs on my 95 VN750. The rear carb is leaking and causing some backfire and shooting flames from the exhaust.. I'm hoping it's just a float adjustment. The prior owner claims he installed bigger jets last year...
Thanks for the video. My 95 Vulcan 750 starts and runs ok,Pulls good. , But the front cylinder heats up faster when idling at start up , than the rear cylinder. After driving they are even temp. Any idea? Thanks.
I have a 1992 Kawasaki Vulcan 750 and some of the carbs exterior screws that hold it together are all stripped, does the rebuild kit include those screws?
Hey man great video, extremely helpful and well explained! Got a question for you tho, my chocke linkage arm there (the same one u took out) has a little but of play in it, the screw is bottemed out and i can still take my finger and move the arm which moves both plungers up and down, theres just a little play in that arm, is that ok?
I am going through my carbs right now. Would the air cut off valve cause fuel to fill the cylinder? I have already replaced the needle valve and set the float level. Any tips would be appreciated.
air cut off should being letting fuel through. When your carburetors were off, did you manually shut the valve and see if the new needle/valve actually shut the fuel off? Sometimes you can replace those and there will be a small piece of rubber stuck in between the valve and the seat causing fuel to continue to flow. Let me know what you find.
The needle valve was bad, or the seat was dirty.. The rear cylinder air cut off was filthy and stuck. Almost 24 hours since carb reinstall, still no leak. 👍 I think the float level was a little high I believe.. Manual says hold it sideways and set the float between the marks.
Seems the carbs are solved, now she's loosing power / cutting out at high speed, 55 - 70 mph steady throttle. Putting fresh spark plugs in over the weekend... Hoping it's the plugs, the engine hydrolocked twice from the float issue, the plugs were soaked.
I moved from CT to CO with my 85 Vulcan and I'm having sputtering around 4500-5000rpm. Need to adjust the carbs for altitude as I ride from 5,500-10,000ft. Service manual says to rejet for altitude, but a buddy is saying to adjust the needle slide, what do you guys think? For whichever you think is best, could you recommend a replacement?
I recently bought a 1990 Vulcan 750 that had been sitting for 10 years. Upon disassembly I found the carbs were just nasty! Like you, I have repaired all kinds of carbs. I actually serviced the carbs to as new as possible condition and reinstalled them on the bike, then ran across this video. Looks like we both have the same technique.👍The bike runs excellent now! It takes patience to do carb work, and I have lots of it. Thanks for the great video.
You were a great help to me today, thank you so much for doing this!
I'm going to be doing this job this week on a recently acquired bike. This video is really fantastic.
Happy to help Chris. Thanks for watching. Let us know if there is anything else you need! www.midnebraskamotorsports.com/
You didn't clean and check the coast enrichers, those round covers on the sides. If these stick closed you get backfire on decel, stuck open it runs rich.
These carbs don't have an overflow, if the float chamber over fills, the gas flows into the cylinder. This can cause hydrolock or fill the crankcase with gas. 25:08 25:08
This is very helpful.. I have to pull the carbs on my 95 VN750. The rear carb is leaking and causing some backfire and shooting flames from the exhaust.. I'm hoping it's just a float adjustment. The prior owner claims he installed bigger jets last year...
Looking forward to hearing how the project is coming!
What to do what not to do. St8 to the point no B.S. . Finally this is what I'm talking about. Why can't every "how to video" i look for be like this
Nice video. Would be good to see video fuel level inspection on motorcycle and set up if it is not correct
Great video idea. Thanks for watching. Have you subscribed to our channel?
@@MidNebraskaMotorsports yes subscribe. i did lever inspection and try adjust, but can't reach rezult how it showed in manual level metter
Great job! Thanks a lot.
Happy to help. Let us know if you need anything. ebay.com/str/midnebraskamotorsports
Qual o nível correto da boia da Vulcan 750?
Thanks for the video. My 95 Vulcan 750 starts and runs ok,Pulls good. , But the front cylinder heats up faster when idling at start up , than the rear cylinder. After driving they are even temp. Any idea? Thanks.
I have a 1992 Kawasaki Vulcan 750 and some of the carbs exterior screws that hold it together are all stripped, does the rebuild kit include those screws?
Yes, all carb kits will have replacement screws because of the potential damage to the original screws when removing them
Where can I find a fuel inlet for the Kawasaki vulcan 88 1500 1994
Hey man great video, extremely helpful and well explained! Got a question for you tho, my chocke linkage arm there (the same one u took out) has a little but of play in it, the screw is bottemed out and i can still take my finger and move the arm which moves both plungers up and down, theres just a little play in that arm, is that ok?
Do you know how to connect the petcock? For a 1989 Kawasaki vulcan 750, and the gas tank? As well as the tube on the top of the carb, it's a long tube
My elbow joint is cracked that flows the gas into the float and I can't seem to get it out. Any info?
I am going through my carbs right now. Would the air cut off valve cause fuel to fill the cylinder? I have already replaced the needle valve and set the float level. Any tips would be appreciated.
1 of the air cut off valves was in pretty bad shape, and have replaced both of them and cleaned everything with 1000 grit sand paper.
air cut off should being letting fuel through. When your carburetors were off, did you manually shut the valve and see if the new needle/valve actually shut the fuel off? Sometimes you can replace those and there will be a small piece of rubber stuck in between the valve and the seat causing fuel to continue to flow. Let me know what you find.
The needle valve was bad, or the seat was dirty.. The rear cylinder air cut off was filthy and stuck. Almost 24 hours since carb reinstall, still no leak. 👍 I think the float level was a little high I believe.. Manual says hold it sideways and set the float between the marks.
Seems the carbs are solved, now she's loosing power / cutting out at high speed, 55 - 70 mph steady throttle. Putting fresh spark plugs in over the weekend... Hoping it's the plugs, the engine hydrolocked twice from the float issue, the plugs were soaked.
I moved from CT to CO with my 85 Vulcan and I'm having sputtering around 4500-5000rpm. Need to adjust the carbs for altitude as I ride from 5,500-10,000ft. Service manual says to rejet for altitude, but a buddy is saying to adjust the needle slide, what do you guys think? For whichever you think is best, could you recommend a replacement?
Jets
@@18rabbit74 I downsized the main jet and its better, but not 100%. I can remove them without pulling the carbs, so I'm happy about that