When I took junior high shop class, we glued wood onto newspaper which was then glued onto a plywood disc. The disc was attached to a metal faceplate, which was then screwed onto a wood lathe headstock. And that's how I turned my very first wooden bowl. When I was done, I took a chisel and pried the bowl off the plywood, and sanded off the newspaper.
Enjoy your videos, always. Metric wingnuts are readily available online and the evil big box stores. I too prefer to make my own jigs since time is not money in my hobby. Time is just more time in my shop. Other options for the wingnuts include store bought or homemade star wheels. Since these bolts don't after to be very tight, a wooden star wheel should work fine.Or press on a valve stem or epoxy wire nut onto the nut. To cut short pieces on a miter saw clamp a "zero-clearance" style back fence, a long narrow piece of wood. Then press the short piece with a 4" x 12" piece of plywood; pressing against the back fence. The blade wants to twist the piece. So pushing down does not apply in pressure directly in the best direction. If the fence is tall or wide enough, you may be able to avoid cutting all the way through. Even if it is 2 separate pieces, I have that evn two strips 1/2" x 3" x 24" are enough the piece from twisting, binding then launching.This sacrificial fence also indicate the saw cut line and kerf as well as any laser. If you need to cut at a different angle or bevel, cust push the two side of the fence together and make a cut. After the center part gets chewed or shipped, again, slide them together to trim off a fresh clean fence. If you do a lot of this sort of work you can make a mini-cutoff sled/table, much like a shooting board. you can fit it a moveable front fence, or use horizontal toggle clamps to apply pressure against the back fence on the jig. Again mitre saws already apply plenty of pressure downward. The trouble starts when the material binds against the other side of the blade, which binds and lifts, much like a kickback. The only saving grace is that it is a piece hurtling away from you at least until it ricochets. Still wood at high speed can cause you to react, jerking your hands into a balde path, or taking a rap in the teeth. It certainly does not improve the quality of the cut.
Not sure if you knew but I know Lowes has plastic knobs that have brass threaded inserts of random sizes. If I remember right they call them tool knobs or something like that. They are in the pull out boxes of random hardware items. They work better in my opinion than wing nuts as they give you more to grab on to and don't tend to cut into your fingers as easy. Not sure if they have the size metric you have but I know I got a few metric ones to put on the bolts on the seat of a pedal bike so it could be adjusted quicker
Can't find a metric wing nut? Great to see the shoe on the other foot. Having to adapt tools and parts to that antiquated system used in Myanmar and Liberia I know the answer. Buy a metric tap and die set and cut metric threads into those 3rd world wing nuts.
I'm so surprised Colin that you can't get metric wing nuts. In Oz, we are fortunate to have both systems at the big box store. Many moons ago in the time of 'Norm'. He made a panel jig with the fence at the cutting edge to put your boards on. That way no problem with how deep the board is. Of course it needs the runner, but I have had this jig for well over a decade. Thanks as always.
You're awesome I enjoy your videos. I wsnt to get in to woodworking so bad but time and money I don't have. I've done small projects but I want to build bigger. I'm learning alot from your videos the does and don'ts. Make more videos please.
Colin I noticed a 2 1/2 pound extinguisher next to you door first it is too small for the level of flammable material in your work space should be at least a 10 pounder. Second the head of the extinguisher should be at no higher than 5 foot and no lower than 4 1/2" from the floor. If you have a second exit I would place another extinguisher at that door also that way you can go to the best way to exit the space and then decide to fight or leave.
The stick is a finger saver, but just holding down short pieces doesn't guarantee a risk-free cut, despite being careful, I’ve ‘shoot’ small boards so they bounced between walls and floor, I’ve even broken some teeth in the saw’s blades, all it takes is for that small piece to move ever so little. My experience is to always close the gap at the back with a board and not cut all the way through it, never had an accident that way… 🙂
That tip about getting the edge of a sheet straight with that simple jig is really good. If you can think of a way to send me your address without it going into the public domain I will send you some metric wing nuts from across the pond Regards Chris (UK)
The wheel you turn to adjust the bevel, can't you mark the lowest point when it's square? Maybe a second point when it's at your most common bevel adjustment?
@@oneeyedphotographer Good enough if you are satisfied with close enough. Note that miter gauges,miter saws and the like have positive stops at 90, and 45 degrees because they are frequently used and are accurate every time. Try and repeat a 72 degree cut using just the marks and pointer.
No crosscuts with a fence when the end to cut off is between the blade and the fence (kick back danger). But in this case the end to being cut off as at the open side, no problem there.
Awesome tips! thank you so much for this video. I’ve been watching you for years and have learned so much from you. I only hope that I can do the same with my RUclips channel as you have done.
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Excellent as always!!!
Great ideas 💡 👌 👍 👏 😀
When I took junior high shop class, we glued wood onto newspaper which was then glued onto a plywood disc. The disc was attached to a metal faceplate, which was then screwed onto a wood lathe headstock. And that's how I turned my very first wooden bowl.
When I was done, I took a chisel and pried the bowl off the plywood, and sanded off the newspaper.
Colin, this is one of your best posts!
Great tips! Thanks
Enjoy your videos, always.
Metric wingnuts are readily available online and the evil big box stores. I too prefer to make my own jigs since time is not money in my hobby. Time is just more time in my shop.
Other options for the wingnuts include store bought or homemade star wheels. Since these bolts don't after to be very tight, a wooden star wheel should work fine.Or press on a valve stem or epoxy wire nut onto the nut.
To cut short pieces on a miter saw clamp a "zero-clearance" style back fence, a long narrow piece of wood. Then press the short piece with a 4" x 12" piece of plywood; pressing against the back fence. The blade wants to twist the piece. So pushing down does not apply in pressure directly in the best direction.
If the fence is tall or wide enough, you may be able to avoid cutting all the way through. Even if it is 2 separate pieces, I have that evn two strips 1/2" x 3" x 24" are enough the piece from twisting, binding then launching.This sacrificial fence also indicate the saw cut line and kerf as well as any laser. If you need to cut at a different angle or bevel, cust push the two side of the fence together and make a cut. After the center part gets chewed or shipped, again, slide them together to trim off a fresh clean fence.
If you do a lot of this sort of work you can make a mini-cutoff sled/table, much like a shooting board. you can fit it a moveable front fence, or use horizontal toggle clamps to apply pressure against the back fence on the jig.
Again mitre saws already apply plenty of pressure downward. The trouble starts when the material binds against the other side of the blade, which binds and lifts, much like a kickback. The only saving grace is that it is a piece hurtling away from you at least until it ricochets. Still wood at high speed can cause you to react, jerking your hands into a balde path, or taking a rap in the teeth. It certainly does not improve the quality of the cut.
Great tips. Some of them I'll use in the very near future. Thanks for sharing.
Not sure if you knew but I know Lowes has plastic knobs that have brass threaded inserts of random sizes. If I remember right they call them tool knobs or something like that. They are in the pull out boxes of random hardware items. They work better in my opinion than wing nuts as they give you more to grab on to and don't tend to cut into your fingers as easy. Not sure if they have the size metric you have but I know I got a few metric ones to put on the bolts on the seat of a pedal bike so it could be adjusted quicker
Thanks Colin!!!
Can't find a metric wing nut? Great to see the shoe on the other foot. Having to adapt tools and parts to that antiquated system used in Myanmar and Liberia I know the answer. Buy a metric tap and die set and cut metric threads into those 3rd world wing nuts.
Glad to see you are not bitter the US has not imposed the metric system on its citizens. :)
Like the valve stem idea!
Couple of very useful tips
Great tips! The cutoff guide looks a lot like your picture frame squaring jig. You could probably use the same jig for both tasks.
I'm so surprised Colin that you can't get metric wing nuts. In Oz, we are fortunate to have both systems at the big box store. Many moons ago in the time of 'Norm'. He made a panel jig with the fence at the cutting edge to put your boards on. That way no problem with how deep the board is. Of course it needs the runner, but I have had this jig for well over a decade. Thanks as always.
I was shocked to hear that too! Of course I’ve never had to look for wing nuts, but I just figured they’d have it for metric as well as imperial
I was a little surprised they could find metric at all. As for the wingnut, I'd be as happy crafting a knob with an imbedded nut.
I can buy metric wing nuts but but at about 20x the cost of SAE threaded ones so cheaper to replace the whole bolt.
@@PurpleRhymesWithOrange Wow. Only a few cents extra in Oz
As a variant for the wheel stems you can use rubber doorstoppers 😁😁👍👍
Great tips again As a toy maker I really like the hold down tip I will be making one soon Thanks 😃
another great video thanks for sharing
I like #2. Thanks.
3:30 A bump with steel can chip carbide saw teeth. Also most circular saw blades “TCT teeth cuts through embeded nails and screws” (which they do!).
Thanks for the great tips. I like the clamp one especially.
You're awesome I enjoy your videos. I wsnt to get in to woodworking so bad but time and money I don't have. I've done small projects but I want to build bigger. I'm learning alot from your videos the does and don'ts. Make more videos please.
Another great one, thank you so much 🙏
thanks
Colin, I use paper glue joints for my inside-out turnings and it works great!
Great tips as always.
You could use an expansion nut as your little rubber stopper since it's threaded on the interior.
Hmmm. Wonder if you could use (just the base of) a valve stem as the foot on the toggle clamp so it won't mar the piece your holding down.
Steve, yes you can. Or should I say Yes I Have. 👍
(edit) But mine is for a Radial Arm Saw.
Fantastic tips, Colin! Thanks a bunch! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
I use rubber well nuts for toggle clamps, they come in metric and imperial.
Colin I noticed a 2 1/2 pound extinguisher next to you door first it is too small for the level of flammable material in your work space should be at least a 10 pounder. Second the head of the extinguisher should be at no higher than 5 foot and no lower than 4 1/2" from the floor. If you have a second exit I would place another extinguisher at that door also that way you can go to the best way to exit the space and then decide to fight or leave.
Westlake/Ace usually has metric wing nuts... that's where I go for almost ALL of my hardware needs. Fyi
I didn't even know these existed!
The stick is a finger saver, but just holding down short pieces doesn't guarantee a risk-free cut, despite being careful, I’ve ‘shoot’ small boards so they bounced between walls and floor, I’ve even broken some teeth in the saw’s blades, all it takes is for that small piece to move ever so little. My experience is to always close the gap at the back with a board and not cut all the way through it, never had an accident that way… 🙂
Been there. Done that. Expensive lesson having to buy a new blade. Fortunately no injuries.
@@3kainos I probably would have, had the wood piece hit me, and not everything else...
'shot' vs 'shoot'
That tip about getting the edge of a sheet straight with that simple jig is really good. If you can think of a way to send me your address without it going into the public domain I will send you some metric wing nuts from across the pond Regards Chris (UK)
The wheel you turn to adjust the bevel, can't you mark the lowest point when it's square? Maybe a second point when it's at your most common bevel adjustment?
If the cut has to be at 90 degrees the very best way is to check it with a square.
@@dwightl5863 Surely once you make the spot(s), it's equally repeatable.
@@oneeyedphotographer Good enough if you are satisfied with close enough. Note that miter gauges,miter saws and the like have positive stops at 90, and 45 degrees because they are frequently used and are accurate every time. Try and repeat a 72 degree cut using just the marks and pointer.
How ironic, I buy mine on the uk from a big uk comany and they always have a 5/16 thread when I want an 8mm thread !
It's hard here to find non-metric threads here
Put knurled thumb nuts on the toggle clamps….much nicer to use…
I thought we don’t do crosscuts with the fence?
No crosscuts with a fence when the end to cut off is between the blade and the fence (kick back danger). But in this case the end to being cut off as at the open side, no problem there.
😁👍
Awesome tips! thank you so much for this video. I’ve been watching you for years and have learned so much from you. I only hope that I can do the same with my RUclips channel as you have done.
What is this "newspaper" thing that you talk about?
Did you fall asleep during that part?
@@vashon100 It was tongue in cheek, most people don't know what a newspaper is nowadays. It was a joke.
@@danrogers4617 Oh ok, got it. Good one.
How silly is it to use a different measure system than the rest of the world!!
As an American, I enjoy how Europeans make fun of me for knowing only one language and also for knowing two systems of measurement.
TIL: marrette == wire nut
I'm 100% smarter now!
USA go metric!