Some bearing kits sit too low in the steering well, so the dust cover sitting on top will get squashed onto the bearing and get deformed when tightening the nut on the fork stem. You can correct this by piling washers until they are flush with the lip of the steering well. The washers internal diameter has to be close to that of the fork stem, maybe 0.1 mm. The outer diameter must be smaller than the steering well, it just needs to rest on the inner race of the bearing.
I recently installed a set of "All Balls" tapered bearings in my SR500 Yamaha The previous owner had already replaced the original bearings with tapered bearings and the outer race of the lower tapered bearing that I now needed to remove from the frame had a larger inside diameter than the original bearing would've had and so there was no lip to drift (strike) the bearing out This made it near impossible to remove the lower bearing race, I was going to weld a washer to the bottom of the bearing race but didn't for fear of badly damaging the bearing's seat in the frame I ended up grinding a thin screwdriver's blade to a sharp edge and bent it an inch or so from the tip of it's blade and managed to hammer the sharpened tip of the screwdriver between the bearing's race and it's seat in the frame and moved it enough to allow a washer to fit in between the bearing and seat and I was then able to drift this washer from above and by working the washer around the bearing I managed to remove it This caused slight damage to the seat but I was able to correct it The lower "All Balls" bearing I refitted has the same problem as the bearing I removed, no lip for future removal Another problem is these tapered bearings are apparently eight to ten millimetres taller than the height of the original bearings and this caused other problems with the way the top clamp sits relative to the steering stem After I managed to remove the tapered bearings fitted by the previous owner I should've thrown away both the old set and the new "All Balls" sets of tapered bearings and refitted a set of original races and ball bearings
Nice tooling mark, i used a similar method to drive to outer races into the upper and lower head stock on my CB500, using a flat bar across the diameter and a dowel and nut through it which brought the race in as far as flush with the head then and then used a socket to drive it the rest of the way. Straight forward enough with the use of a freezer. I was unlucky though in removing the old races as they were the same size inner diamater as the tube so no chance pf a simple drift and had no choice but to take a tungsten carbide bit to them, which left a small mark about 5% of the seat in total in one place. Given the total circumference of the head stock was intact and 95% of the seat it hasnt had any effect on the taper bearings in their seated position or steering head operation, and has done well over 3000 miles just fine. I imagine this is what most peolple have to do, no idea how garages deal with it. I imagine when its a bearing doing just about 20 revolutions per day operating under cold temps its not a massive issue. Would be good to see how others resolve this. Why did you oil the top and grease the bottom on installation BTW?
I was looking at my fork puller tool the other day wondering if it could be modified to do bearing races like this. It's the same basic idea, I just need the correct size part to sit on the bearing edge.
+Pony Power I made a smaller version for rear shock bearings a while ago but that stepped top brass piece of yours is a simple but great additional idea.
The ball bearings lasted 20 years so the taper bearing should be for life. If you did have to get that race out you could just run a bead of weld around the race on the inside about 1/3 of the way around. After it cools it should be shrunk enough to lift right out.
Have a question on where you found the BRASS Bearing Race Adapter. I have an Aluminum Bearing Race and Seal Driver Kit that comes with a Driver Handle and 10 various size Adapters but would like to get a brass version so to minimize any damage. I believe you sell the threaded tool configuration on eBay but I don't see link on your RUclips Video.
Hi, do you think that building a press like that but with inox steel washers you could damage the races? Even if pressure is distributed along the circumference? Thank you
Hello mate, I'd just sold the last 1 yesterday but will be making up 10 more will be a week if thats not too long for you? Part 2 will be posted up this weekend as I've finished the painting the front end. Thanks for the comment - matt
I saw a vid where they needed replacing after lack of adjustment. so the notch (or 4) for a drift sounds good planning? what would I search for on ebay for a kit?
How would you go about removing the races if you really had to? Cut a slit maybe? I would most likely buy a kit if you sell them they seem as good as the £100+ presses you can buy for this job.
+Bikers Quest what the tapered races? Probably followed by a massive headache lol I'd probably Tig weld a disc inside the bearing and hammer the race out from underneath.
+Pony Power Yeah from doing a bit of research is seems like that's how most do it, I have nill experience welding though lol are you a motorcycle mechanic btw? Or do you do this as a hobby? Since it seems like you have a lot of experience with all aspects
I'm a mechanical engineer that designs engines, used have my hands in petrol but most of the stuff I do nowadays is diesel. Bigger plant stuff, diggers etc. Used to build drag bike engines back in the day. Just been doing this sort of thing most my life.
That would explain a lot, loving the vids I can imagine it's hard setting up the cameras and editing especially doing it for free but I'm sure your subs will go up!
Hey you wouldn't be able to make me the brass and aluminium plates if I paid you? I already have the threaded rod, but that would make it so much easier!
You say this is the right way - but you replaced a bearing type that could easily be removed and replaced if necessary and installed one in such a way that it can't be replaced easily. How is this right?
+Guy Wren lol good point. I didn't design the bearings, but you have a good point. This is the 'right' or should I say 'correct' way to install tapered bearings. The fact that they're a bitch to remove is a failure in the design and hence why I pointed that out so people understand this before installing them. They're not impossible to get out, just a lot more involved and usually out of the scope of what backyarders can do. Most garages would struggle to remove them. The purpose of the video is to show people how to install them right the first time. If they screw up they're gonna be in a world of pain. Do you mind if I name drop and bring this up in a follow-up video? Cheers for the comment - matt
How come after watching many videos like this, as soon as I hear the english type accent, I am afraid what I am getting ready to see? Particularly if they are working on a Harley. As soon as he picked up that roller bearing race, I said to myself "He is NEVER going to be able to get that back out of there". The next guy that own's this bike after him and tries to service those bearing is going to call him every cuss word imaginable. The only way your getting them out is to weld a washer to the outer bearing race and pound them out... It's my theory that it is the government educations they are getting. Those tapered roller bearings need to be packed with grease, not oil and if you have no seal on that top one,water is going to get in there and destroy it. If you repeat this catastrophe, make sure you use good water proof marine grease.
I recently installed a set of "All Balls" tapered bearings in my SR500 Yamaha The previous owner had already replaced the original bearings with tapered bearings and the outer race of the lower tapered bearing that I needed to remove from the frame had a larger inside diameter than the original bearing would've had and so there was no lip to drift (strike) the bearing out This made it near impossible to remove the lower bearing race, I was going to weld a washer to the bottom of the bearing race but didn't for fear of badly damaging the bearing's seat in the frame I ended up grinding a thin screwdriver's blade to a sharp edge and bent it an inch or so from the tip of it's blade and managed to hammer the sharpened tip of the screwdriver between the bearing's race and it's seat in the frame and managed to move it enough to allow a washer to fit in between the bearing and seat and was then able to drift this washer from above and by working the washer around the bearing I managed to remove it This caused slight damage to the seat but I was able to correct it The lower "All Balls" bearing I refitted has the same problem as the bearing I removed, no lip for future removal Another problem is these tapered bearings are apparently eight to ten millimetres taller than the height of the original bearings and this caused other problems with the way the top clamp sits relative to the steering stem After I managed to remove the tapered bearings fitted by the previous owner I should've thrown away both the old set and the new "All Balls" set of tapered bearings and refitted a set of original races and ball bearings
How long is a piece of string? It's hard to translate over the internet - tighten it down bit by bit until you feel uneven resistance - just feel uneven resistance - like its tightening. The bakc off ever so slightly until it feels like is can just float - if that makes sense?
The Workshop actually, it done with a torque wrench that is set according to manufacturer's torque value...and than backed up a quarter of a turn...so that the bearings will seat properly... Even Delboy knows it...
Lay a nice and hot weld bead on the outer bearing race where the rollers ride. Then as the liquid weld metal cools to a solid, it shrinks and contracts and reduces the OD of the race. On large truck/lorry hubs, the races will just fall out. This technique is used with tapered roller bearings, not ball bearings. You want the weld to cool and pull inwards radially.
ты так мало потратил смазки как будто ты за неё платишь золотом на вес ) посадку внешних обойм подшипника лучше сажать на графитную смазку - даже через 10 лет там всё можно будет снять без нечеловеческих усилий и без плясок с шаманским бубном.
you spent so little lubricant as if you were paying for it in gold by weight) it is better to plant the landing of the outer races of the bearing on graphite grease - even after 10 years everything can be removed there without superhuman efforts and without dancing with a shaman's tambourine.
Some bearing kits sit too low in the steering well, so the dust cover sitting on top will get squashed onto the bearing and get deformed when tightening the nut on the fork stem. You can correct this by piling washers until they are flush with the lip of the steering well. The washers internal diameter has to be close to that of the fork stem, maybe 0.1 mm. The outer diameter must be smaller than the steering well, it just needs to rest on the inner race of the bearing.
I recently installed a set of "All Balls" tapered bearings in my SR500 Yamaha
The previous owner had already replaced the original bearings with tapered bearings and the outer race of the lower tapered bearing that I now needed to remove from the frame had a larger inside diameter than the original bearing would've had and so there was no lip to drift (strike) the bearing out
This made it near impossible to remove the lower bearing race, I was going to weld a washer to the bottom of the bearing race but didn't for fear of badly damaging the bearing's seat in the frame
I ended up grinding a thin screwdriver's blade to a sharp edge and bent it an inch or so from the tip of it's blade and managed to hammer the sharpened tip of the screwdriver between the bearing's race and it's seat in the frame and moved it enough to allow a washer to fit in between the bearing and seat and I was then able to drift this washer from above and by working the washer around the bearing I managed to remove it
This caused slight damage to the seat but I was able to correct it
The lower "All Balls" bearing I refitted has the same problem as the bearing I removed, no lip for future removal
Another problem is these tapered bearings are apparently eight to ten millimetres taller than the height of the original bearings and this caused other problems with the way the top clamp sits relative to the steering stem
After I managed to remove the tapered bearings fitted by the previous owner I should've thrown away both the old set and the new "All Balls" sets of tapered bearings and refitted a set of original races and ball bearings
Nice tooling mark, i used a similar method to drive to outer races into the upper and lower head stock on my CB500, using a flat bar across the diameter and a dowel and nut through it which brought the race in as far as flush with the head then and then used a socket to drive it the rest of the way. Straight forward enough with the use of a freezer. I was unlucky though in removing the old races as they were the same size inner diamater as the tube so no chance pf a simple drift and had no choice but to take a tungsten carbide bit to them, which left a small mark about 5% of the seat in total in one place. Given the total circumference of the head stock was intact and 95% of the seat it hasnt had any effect on the taper bearings in their seated position or steering head operation, and has done well over 3000 miles just fine. I imagine this is what most peolple have to do, no idea how garages deal with it. I imagine when its a bearing doing just about 20 revolutions per day operating under cold temps its not a massive issue. Would be good to see how others resolve this. Why did you oil the top and grease the bottom on installation BTW?
That is a great way to do it. Great piece of kit
+Paul Ford cheers dude
I was looking at my fork puller tool the other day wondering if it could be modified to do bearing races like this. It's the same basic idea, I just need the correct size part to sit on the bearing edge.
An upside down air dusted will shrink that race in place, then it will grow into place👍🏻
Very helpful, thank you.
Perfect ! Thank you very much!
You r right method sir
Great piece of kit!
+Andy Donaldson Thanks dude, not originally my idea, alot of people do it this way, just trying to make people aware - thanks again - matt
+Pony Power I made a smaller version for rear shock bearings a while ago but that stepped top brass piece of yours is a simple but great additional idea.
Cheers mate - matt
Brilliant video thank u ♥️👀👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
The last race you'll ever install on that bike 😂😂😂
i usually put the race in the freezer overnight and heat the frame, so that you just drop it in without hammering the shit out of it.
Video on that tonight dude
Btw love all the vids
Is the purpose for heating to prevent rust that may form due to the frost on the racing?
good idea with the kits mate
+tony gillespie I'll add up the cost of the materials and see what I come up with. Then see what the interest is like. - matt
You selling those kits yet? You’ve got at least one buyer right here
The ball bearings lasted 20 years so the taper bearing should be for life. If you did have to get that race out you could just run a bead of weld around the race on the inside about 1/3 of the way around. After it cools it should be shrunk enough to lift right out.
Last 20 years?
Have a question on where you found the BRASS Bearing Race Adapter.
I have an Aluminum Bearing Race and Seal Driver Kit that comes with a Driver Handle and 10 various size Adapters but would like to get a brass version so to minimize any damage.
I believe you sell the threaded tool configuration on eBay but I don't see link on your RUclips Video.
Hi, do you think that building a press like that but with inox steel washers you could damage the races? Even if pressure is distributed along the circumference? Thank you
gotta do this on the honda cb350 and then to sell it and move on to a Yammy RD 400 ... I so need that ester smell back in my life ;)
Matt - any idea if anyone machines these for sale? I don’t have access to any machining tools
Not offhand I don't
I want to purchase install kit off you on eBay - also where is part 2 mate?? Good vid, thanks!
Hello mate, I'd just sold the last 1 yesterday but will be making up 10 more will be a week if thats not too long for you? Part 2 will be posted up this weekend as I've finished the painting the front end. Thanks for the comment - matt
This video wont play. But other videos on RUclips play just fine.
I saw a vid where they needed replacing after lack of adjustment. so the notch (or 4) for a drift sounds good planning? what would I search for on ebay for a kit?
How would you go about removing the races if you really had to? Cut a slit maybe? I would most likely buy a kit if you sell them they seem as good as the £100+ presses you can buy for this job.
+Bikers Quest what the tapered races? Probably followed by a massive headache lol I'd probably Tig weld a disc inside the bearing and hammer the race out from underneath.
+Pony Power Yeah from doing a bit of research is seems like that's how most do it, I have nill experience welding though lol are you a motorcycle mechanic btw? Or do you do this as a hobby? Since it seems like you have a lot of experience with all aspects
I'm a mechanical engineer that designs engines, used have my hands in petrol but most of the stuff I do nowadays is diesel. Bigger plant stuff, diggers etc. Used to build drag bike engines back in the day. Just been doing this sort of thing most my life.
That would explain a lot, loving the vids I can imagine it's hard setting up the cameras and editing especially doing it for free but I'm sure your subs will go up!
Cheers mate. Nice work. I want to buy this kit...Do you have one to sell it? Can't find on ebay...tnx
Hey you wouldn't be able to make me the brass and aluminium plates if I paid you? I already have the threaded rod, but that would make it so much easier!
Why do I make this mod?
is there any benefit changing from ball bearings to tapered bearings?
1. They're angular contact bearings. 2) no
@@dirtygarageguy thanks for the reply. Interesting as most people seem to refer to it as an upgrade.
That's just good marketing by aftermarket companies.
@@teecee90 tapered bearings handle side loading forces better.
What side loading and better than what?
You say this is the right way - but you replaced a bearing type that could easily be removed and replaced if necessary and installed one in such a way that it can't be replaced easily. How is this right?
+Guy Wren lol good point. I didn't design the bearings, but you have a good point. This is the 'right' or should I say 'correct' way to install tapered bearings. The fact that they're a bitch to remove is a failure in the design and hence why I pointed that out so people understand this before installing them. They're not impossible to get out, just a lot more involved and usually out of the scope of what backyarders can do. Most garages would struggle to remove them.
The purpose of the video is to show people how to install them right the first time. If they screw up they're gonna be in a world of pain. Do you mind if I name drop and bring this up in a follow-up video?
Cheers for the comment - matt
0.56 you said smaller when you meant Larger.
Well there's nothing I can do about it now
Are you selling these kits yet?
You making these kits yet? cheers
I don't suppose you have one of those for sale still do you? In urgent need.
Cheers
I did, nut not anymore - sorry dude
How come after watching many videos like this, as soon as I hear the english type accent, I am afraid what I am getting ready to see? Particularly if they are working on a Harley. As soon as he picked up that roller bearing race, I said to myself "He is NEVER going to be able to get that back out of there". The next guy that own's this bike after him and tries to service those bearing is going to call him every cuss word imaginable. The only way your getting them out is to weld a washer to the outer bearing race and pound them out... It's my theory that it is the government educations they are getting. Those tapered roller bearings need to be packed with grease, not oil and if you have no seal on that top one,water is going to get in there and destroy it. If you repeat this catastrophe, make sure you use good water proof marine grease.
I recently installed a set of "All Balls" tapered bearings in my SR500 Yamaha
The previous owner had already replaced the original bearings with tapered bearings and the outer race of the lower tapered bearing that I needed to remove from the frame had a larger inside diameter than the original bearing would've had and so there was no lip to drift (strike) the bearing out
This made it near impossible to remove the lower bearing race, I was going to weld a washer to the bottom of the bearing race but didn't for fear of badly damaging the bearing's seat in the frame
I ended up grinding a thin screwdriver's blade to a sharp edge and bent it an inch or so from the tip of it's blade and managed to hammer the sharpened tip of the screwdriver between the bearing's race and it's seat in the frame and managed to move it enough to allow a washer to fit in between the bearing and seat and was then able to drift this washer from above and by working the washer around the bearing I managed to remove it
This caused slight damage to the seat but I was able to correct it
The lower "All Balls" bearing I refitted has the same problem as the bearing I removed, no lip for future removal
Another problem is these tapered bearings are apparently eight to ten millimetres taller than the height of the original bearings and this caused other problems with the way the top clamp sits relative to the steering stem
After I managed to remove the tapered bearings fitted by the previous owner I should've thrown away both the old set and the new "All Balls" set of tapered bearings and refitted a set of original races and ball bearings
how much do you tighten the head bearings
How long is a piece of string? It's hard to translate over the internet - tighten it down bit by bit until you feel uneven resistance - just feel uneven resistance - like its tightening. The bakc off ever so slightly until it feels like is can just float - if that makes sense?
I will give that a shot - cheers
The Workshop actually, it done with a torque wrench that is set according to manufacturer's torque value...and than backed up a quarter of a turn...so that the bearings will seat properly...
Even Delboy knows it...
Put the caps in the freezer for 24 hrs it just drops in make life easier for your self.
The freezer is 12 miles away... what now?
Matt Hi mate can I buy a kit please?
I would buy a kit great idea 💡
Amigo, vc se lembra das medidas desses rolamentos??
The question is, what if the bearings is broken. how to remove the outter race??
Like you would if the bearing is intact, unless its shrouded by the stem? Is that what you're asking?
Its very difficult to hit the bearing out, if inner diameter of the outer race is same as steering neck hole.
Lay a nice and hot weld bead on the outer bearing race where the rollers ride. Then as the liquid weld metal cools to a solid, it shrinks and contracts and reduces the OD of the race. On large truck/lorry hubs, the races will just fall out. This technique is used with tapered roller bearings, not ball bearings. You want the weld to cool and pull inwards radially.
ты так мало потратил смазки как будто ты за неё платишь золотом на вес )
посадку внешних обойм подшипника лучше сажать на графитную смазку - даже через 10 лет там всё можно будет снять без нечеловеческих усилий и без плясок с шаманским бубном.
you spent so little lubricant as if you were paying for it in gold by weight)
it is better to plant the landing of the outer races of the bearing on graphite grease - even after 10 years everything can be removed there without superhuman efforts and without dancing with a shaman's tambourine.
where is part 2
:d
Part 2 is coming this weekend - (11/06/2016) - cheers for the interest and the comment - matt
Pony Power cool
ruclips.net/video/Tw-E1kzjJnA/видео.html
Oh no ! Your hand is bleeding. X(