He/You will get there. Producing short and sweet, informative videos. Filling in blanks left by other content creators. This video is a good example. Keep up the great work. The last month you created a lot of positive buzz. Where applicable, I try to give this channel a mention every chance I get. Others are doin the same.
I always tell people that it's a terrible idea to have corrosive ammo for your SHTF stash because cleaning supplies are bulky and in finite supply. If you're going to stockpile ammo, choose something that won't wreck your gun if you can't clean it both quickly and thoroughly.
What a delight to watch your videos. High humidity, in my experience, when combined with a corrosive salt residue creates the highest concentrated solution and does the most damage. If only someone told us to rinse our cap pistols with water when we were kids.
I am absolutely blown away by your channel! You are doing amazing work on some VERY fascinating topics. I love the 2nd ammendment, I am a firearms owner and somewhat of a collector as well, and it just pleases me to my core to see someone supporting our rights in these fascinating ways. Thank you, and hello from Northern California!
@@andreahighsides7756 Unfortunately I am not Joe Rogan, but I do listen to him quite a lot. I would love to be a person like him one day, respectful, wise, eclectic, and awash in friends.
LSD-25AyahuascaDMT Definitely a very respectable man! I was mostly making a joke about your username :) 15 minutes ago I harvested the last of the wild psilocybe cyanescens. Its the first frost tonight in WA so the end of mushroom season
thecsslife The best place to look is human placed woodchips 3+ years old. Even in the city those small woodchip islands outside fast food restaurants may grow them. Its a numbers game, and all about spending more time looking. Keep at it and good luck! And always take spore prints :)
How it came to be in the primer is an interesting factoid. The earliest primers used mercury fulminate to fire their charges of black powder, and the black powder fouling diluted and trapped much of the mercury that was evolved when the mercury fulminate exploded. Since the black powder fouling had to be washed from the case before the cartridge could be reloaded, the effect of the mercury on the brass was minimal. That changed with the advent of smokeless powder, which left much less residue. The problem with mercury and brass is the mercury forms an amalgam with the copper. That left the brass cases weakened and prone to breakage when they were next fired, as the zinc was brittle without the copper to strengthen it and the copper amalgam was weaker than the copper. Once the US Army found the cause of the embrittlement, they reformulated primers to use a non-mercuric priming mix. The reasoning was the Potassium chloride left in the bore by firing the primers was less troublesome to deal with than the metallic mercury the mercuric primers left.
I really appreciate your ability to impart useful information to others with such clarity and depth of knowledge. I wish this demonstration was presented to me 60+ years ago when I first became interested in firearms. Thank you
I shoot a lot of corrosive ammo out of my Ak74&47, and my Mausers and Nagants. Also out of my Nagant pistol as well, I never have a problem with corrosion because the first thing I do when I get back from the range (corrosive ammo or not) is clean my weapons. And for corrosive ammo, what I use, and I got this from my USMC vet and gunsmith father, hot soapy water. I've never had any corrosion issues and all my firing pins and internals look great. Just make sure you dry it out well, wipe it down, and then oil or put your white lithium grease (what I use) as you normally would after it's been wiped dry. All the firearms I use corrosive ammo out of have been fine, you just gotta clean them a little more if that's what you want to do or you'll regret it.
Back in the day, I only shot surplus corrosive ammo out of my 8mm Yugo Mauser. When we got home from the range, I removed the bolt, inverted the gun in a bucket of hot, soapy water and brushed thoroughly. Followed by a clean water rinse and regular cleaning and oiling. Man those days were good.
Very informative, thanks a lot. Great video. I always clean my guns after shooting corrosive ammo but I have often wondered how fast the corrosion would set in if I didn't.
Well done video I have never seen such amazing scientific testing on firearms and ballistics with great attention to detail. It would be cool to show two identical firearms using corossive ammo types and non corrosive types. Or in future videos demonstrate your expiremental results using firearms.
I live in a country where gun possession is controlled to a point where only the relatively wealthy can afford it. Almost all of my firearms knowledge comes from RUclips. While I learned a whole lot about the way firearms function on other channels, it is yours which gives me the actual scientific knowledge of how ammunition works. You have opened my eyes and cleared so many misconceptions other sources have imprinted on me. For that, I am eternally grateful.
Well done 👍🏻 From personal experience with surplus Russian ammunition from the 60’s that used the mercuric primers, the corrosion will start much faster than sample #2. The simple way to stop the corrosion is to wipe the bore and bolt with a patch soaked in glass cleaner and then clean the gun as normal with the bore cleaner of your choice.
I see that being very effective, since glass cleaner is water based, and the corrosive reidues are water soluble. The surfactants probably help as well. Thabks for sharing
What a goober. No Soviet mil-surp ammo came with mercuric primers. As late as the 90's former Warsaw Pact countries were still using potassium chlorate primers for military ammo.
dbmail545 since I don’t have a bunch of stupid letters after my name like PhD or anything, took shop class in high school instead of chemistry, and am totally unfamiliar as to what the Russians used for priming compound, I guess I’ll have to defer to the biggest asshole in the room. I only know how to keep the barrels from rusting by using the same information my grandfather, who was in Korea, taught me to use. So thanks for the information dickhead!
Great information! I was surprised the black powder had no signs of corrosion. When I shoot old surplus ammo that's corrosive I just run some water down the barrel and action of the firearm I used, I previously used Windex as I heard you need the ammonia inside the Windex to neutralize the corrosive salts. I now only use water, Windex is unnecessary.
Mercury fulminate also has the downside of decaying into mercury cyanate over time. Chemical composition remains the same, it's the molecular structure that changes over time, rendering such primers unusable.
In my case, shooting corrosive STV ammo through AKM, all it took was 4 hours of condensation to make visible, permanent black marks on my gas piston. No other part has corroded that way.
A nice scientific experiment without and testosterone induced rants. Pure firearms facts. Very nice BB! This is exactly why I always use a gallon of hot water to clean my Mosin barrel after using surplus ammo. After the water run a dry rag a few times through and then one with oil. Nice and clean. It's how I've kept my Mosin in such good condition for so long.
I use mostly corrosive ammo in my 8mm Mauser. To clean it I give the inside of the barrel a swab with a strong dish soap solution. Then pull the bolt, turn it so the muzzle is pointing down, and blast it was the steamer on my coffee maker. Wait until I see clean water coming out, then clean like normal. Be warned, the barrel gets very hot using this technique.
The primers in old black power rounds had mercury in them. That caused the brass cases to be weakened in the case of reloading. This also causes corrosion in the barrels and other parts of the gun.
Black powder fowling is hydroscopic which is why it has the reputation it does for needing to be cleaned. in a high humidity environment it will hold the moisture against the metal. it does very little in dry environments when non corrosive primers are used. if you want to see why it had the terrible reputation that it does set a sample with the black powder and corrosive priming compound. the fowling will hold the moisture and contain the salts.
Is cleaning the bore of my rifle with just really hot water adequate for dissolving the corrosive salts? I heard people say to use windex because it has ammonia. But really windex works because it is largely water based. I typically put a spray bottle with really hot water down into the chamber and spray the barrel. Then blow the gun and barrel with an air compressor to speed drying and get out excess fouling. Then I clean the bore with solvent and patches. Is that overkill? I could probably go without the air compressor part. I have heard in the past people just used really hot water because that is all they had.
This is why I sold (what was left of) my SKS and TT-33. They were important steps in my "gun career" but cleaning a gun for an hour after shooting it is a big pain. Also, I forgot to clean my SKS once and it never worked the same again. In the unlikely event I buy another Russian gun, it will never have corrosive ammo through it.
Matthew Millar Cleaning for an hour? Dude you swab the bore, gastube and wipe off the bolt with some oil. It’s not rocket science and if a peasant farmer from the Ukraine can somehow keep his rifle clean and in working order you definitely can. To add to this, most SKSs have chrome lined barrels which makes them even easier to clean.
The literature says that corrosion will start at around 50% humidity in a fired rifle using corrosive ammo it would be interesting to set up another experiment to see how fast corrosion occurs at different levels of humidity
I find Pyrodex black powder substitute to be considerably more corrosive than black powder. The manufacturer advertises that it is cleaner than black powder, in a sense that is correct because Pyrodex is considerably more energetic than black powder by weight, it is also less dense, so an equal volume charge can be expected to produce less residue than black powder since less weight is being burned. However, I find the Pyrodex residue is more difficult to clean and more corrosive. The formula for Pyrodex is essentially the same as black powder, however in addition to the standard ingredients it contains potassium perchlorate, which I believe is the source of the extra energy as well as the source of Pyrodex's extra corrosive effect. Note that Pyrodex is easily available, works well in percussion weapons, and is inexpensive compared to black powder, and the additional source of corrosion is of no consequence if the weapon is cleaned promptly after use. I sometimes do not promptly clean after use, and find myself much better off using real black powder. Triple Seven powder is based on sugar rather than charcoal, lacks sulfer, and also contans perchlorate. It is rather expensive, but I find thie cost is offset by the fact that it is higher energy than both standard black powder or pyrodex, thus less is required to achieve a given bullet velocity, so a pound of Triple Seven will last longer than Pyrodex or standard black powder when you reduce charges as recommended by the maufacturer. I find use of Triple seven reduces fouling compared to other options, yet still tends to be corrossive compared to black powder thus prompt cleaning is recommnded. I would enjoy a video comparing both the volume of fouling and the corrosive effect of the various black powder substitutes with black powder itself. My favourite choice of propellant is Olde Eynsford black powder. It is comparable to Swiss but costs less. It is approximately as energetic as Triple Seven and burns cleaner than standard black powder. I also find the fouling to be less corrosive than other choices. I have neglected cleaning at times with Olde Eynsford, at times for weeks, and gotten away with it and escaped serious corrosion. Not recommended though. I also find the cleaning easier. Another subject for a video - the ease of solubility of the fouling various propellant choices, or more simply put, the ease of cleaning. There should be a scientific way to measure that. Cheers, and thanks for the video.
I used some adverts when I first created the channel. I mainly put them on the Forgotten weapons channel, so that I could somehow contribute to their amazing channel
Florida has humidity that never goes below 40% relative and is frequently higher. I shot 7n6 through my gun, cleaned and oiled it thoroughly but saw corrosion within 48 hours. Water is your friend.
Excellent work! I forgot to sub after stumbling across one of your previous videos. Luckily I stumbled across another, and again your work is terrific. Keep it up! And thanks.
It was surface rust, but there are places where corrosion is faster, so those parts will tend over time to sink more than the rest, creating pits, but not as well defined as proper pitting
Remember, there was no such things a 'Corrosive' primers before Remington invented their non-corrosive "Kleanbore' primers. Only after this do we start referring to primers as corrosive or non-corrosive, mostly following WWII. Why? Because the military were reluctant to jump on a bandwagon that had no track record of how long these new primers last in storage. The first US use of non-corrosive primers came about with the adoption of the US M1 Carbine. The Ordnance folks recognized that the carbine's short piston action would be very vulnerable if not kept clean, a difficult thing under combat conditions. This is why you seldom encounter a M1 Carbine with a bad bore. I've been firing both types for over fifty-years. I never experienced bore rust problems except for the one instance when I deliberately did not proper clean a rifle bore after firing corrosive ammo. I was planning on replacing the rifle's barrel, and wanted to see the result. The best way to properly clean 'Corrosive' primers is to use hot water or WWII era US Bore Cleaner. This type of primer residue requires a water based solution that will dissolve the salt like crystals in the bore, oil does not do it. :)
With the black powder you need to use some primer compound in the burn as it takes a primer to ignite in a rifle. The compound afterburn will be way worse as to corrosion speed.
Modern percussion caps for black powder arms are no different than the non-corrosive primer compound used in smokeless cartridges. And flintlocks don't use impact-sensitive primer compounds at all.
I have shot tons of corrosive ammo with absolutely no problems. After shooting just rinse with soapy water, then clean and relube as usual. The salts absorb moisture, causing corrosion. During dry weather I've gone days before cleaning without without any rust.
Hope you can do more vids like this comparing different finishes as well. Ex. Cold bluing vs different powders, then hot blued, blued + oil. Etc Though obviously if you dont take care of your tools and keep them clean theyll weather lol.
Sorry for the month's-long response.....on their box, it will state "Non-Corrosive". if they are. All my Wolf and Tula ammo in different grains and types (fmj, HP etc) I've bought since 1992 have said 'non-corrosive'.
I don’t know what black powder is used, but real deal black powder is often not sold on store shelves due to being really dirty and corrosive, and often times are instead BP substitutes which are non-corrosive and cleaner burning while still having the same pressures of real BP so that you don’t blow up your gun. Anyways, neat video.
Hey there, you made a clever observation. The black powder used in the video is the traditional one. The substitutes are more popular in the USA because they are considered less dangerous in storage and transport, but here in Italy this distinction does not exist, so the traditional formulation is actually much more common than substitutes. Thanks for suggesting though
@@Backyard.Ballistics Ok, good to see you have you know your stuff. Since this is real deal BP, I am surprised that the metal fared a lot better than I was expecting. Anyways, thanks for the reply and good luck on future endeavors.
@@Prowbar Nonsense. It has potassium & sulfide ions in the fouling residue, so it is corrosive, just not as bad as something w/ the combo of potassium & chloride ions [like Pyrodex leaves behind.]
Mercury is also a bad primer compound while it ruins the brass. "When fired, the mercury would amalgamate with the copper or brass making it extremely brittle." ABCs of reloading. Greetings, Jeff
Great vid bro /we get a ton of corrsive ammo in canada in 7.62x39mm /54r /and some other cals to /fun to shoot /cheap /you just got to clean after your done shooting /if you do no problems at all !!
It's the same here in italy, the Russian federation kept using corrosive primers until the 80's, and there are massive amounts coming to the civilian market. I still use some of them, I just clean the gun the same day that i shoot. Thanks for sharing 😉
Hmm I have a lot of mosin corrosive ammo. Now what is a good thing to clean corrosive residue? Some people say that it's windex.. but a video on the best way to clean corrosive would be neat
As he says in the video, potassium chloride is water soluble, like table salt. Running some water down your barrel after shooting should do a decent job. Follow it up with a good cleaning and you should be golden.
Hello Carlos I hav a weird question😂 if you shoot corrosive ammunition though a gun, and put it in a gun safe could the corrosive salts evaporate and corrode other guns and the gun safe? Or is it impossible?
That's why I try not to use Berdan primers on my milsurps. Although I *do* have a box of Mauser ammo that I need to double-check. Or at least make sure I clean the rifle right after I shoot it...
It was a simple mild steel (less than 0.2% carbon), but the low alloy steels commonly used in gun industry have very similar corrosive properties. High alloy steels tend to corrode slower, and stainless only start corroding after a certain threshold of aggresive substances is exceeded. After that though, they typically corrode very fast, with localized and deep pits.
In the 80s and 90s we had Chinese 7.62x39 ammo here with corrosive primers. Very inexpensive and we shot lots of rounds. It trashed a few firearms that weren't cleaned after use. I thought it was because the primers used a mercury basesd compound. Or was potassium chlorate used in conjunction with mercury? Whatever the case we blamed "mercuric primers"
Was the black power stuff like pyrodex etc? As it is not quite black powder. As in how it used to be made when black powder was all the rage. So result may vary from black power substitute variants. However good test, keep it up!
the powder used was traditional black powder, made by Explosia of Czech Republic under the commercial name "Vesuvit". Here our law doesn't differ between traditional black powder and sustitutes, so the latter are very uncommon (I personally have never seen one single tub of them)
@@Backyard.Ballistics OK, if not substitute it should be ok. However no mix rate was given on their pages. However to be honest, I am not trying to make a big deal about this :) I was just pointing out that real black powder vs substitutes ones, can produce different results when it comes to corrosion and heat/burn time effect.
@@xz569 don't worry, I always try to reply to all of the questions I get in the comments, I like sharing info with people living all over the world! 😉👍
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
Not sure how this channel doesn’t have a million subscribers yet.
I really appreciate your compliments, one million seems too much though😜
@@Backyard.Ballistics No such thing on you tube. Once you get to one million it becomes a full time job.
@B We'll it did till Them tube started demonetising everyone who produced anything more controversial than cat videos.
He/You will get there. Producing short and sweet, informative videos. Filling in blanks left by other content creators. This video is a good example. Keep up the great work. The last month you created a lot of positive buzz. Where applicable, I try to give this channel a mention every chance I get. Others are doin the same.
It’s awesome to understand how the rust happens and see how much there is with the example, great video as always
I always tell people that it's a terrible idea to have corrosive ammo for your SHTF stash because cleaning supplies are bulky and in finite supply. If you're going to stockpile ammo, choose something that won't wreck your gun if you can't clean it both quickly and thoroughly.
Science and guns, my two favorite things. Please don't stop my guy.
What a delight to watch your videos. High humidity, in my experience, when combined with a corrosive salt residue creates the
highest concentrated solution and does the most damage. If only someone told us to rinse our cap pistols with water when we were kids.
Fortunately pot-metal corrodes less than steel.
I am absolutely blown away by your channel! You are doing amazing work on some VERY fascinating topics. I love the 2nd ammendment, I am a firearms owner and somewhat of a collector as well, and it just pleases me to my core to see someone supporting our rights in these fascinating ways. Thank you, and hello from Northern California!
LSD-25AyahuascaDMT Is this joe rogan lmao
@@andreahighsides7756 Unfortunately I am not Joe Rogan, but I do listen to him quite a lot. I would love to be a person like him one day, respectful, wise, eclectic, and awash in friends.
LSD-25AyahuascaDMT Definitely a very respectable man! I was mostly making a joke about your username :) 15 minutes ago I harvested the last of the wild psilocybe cyanescens. Its the first frost tonight in WA so the end of mushroom season
@@andreahighsides7756 Been looking for P.cyans myself, haven't found any yet.
thecsslife The best place to look is human placed woodchips 3+ years old. Even in the city those small woodchip islands outside fast food restaurants may grow them. Its a numbers game, and all about spending more time looking. Keep at it and good luck! And always take spore prints :)
Excellent video! I didn't realize that potassium chlorate was the reason for old primers being so corrosive. Beautifully done experiment!
How it came to be in the primer is an interesting factoid.
The earliest primers used mercury fulminate to fire their charges of black powder, and the black powder fouling diluted and trapped much of the mercury that was evolved when the mercury fulminate exploded. Since the black powder fouling had to be washed from the case before the cartridge could be reloaded, the effect of the mercury on the brass was minimal. That changed with the advent of smokeless powder, which left much less residue.
The problem with mercury and brass is the mercury forms an amalgam with the copper. That left the brass cases weakened and prone to breakage when they were next fired, as the zinc was brittle without the copper to strengthen it and the copper amalgam was weaker than the copper. Once the US Army found the cause of the embrittlement, they reformulated primers to use a non-mercuric priming mix. The reasoning was the Potassium chloride left in the bore by firing the primers was less troublesome to deal with than the metallic mercury the mercuric primers left.
I really appreciate your ability to impart useful information to others with such clarity and depth of knowledge. I wish this demonstration was presented to me 60+ years ago when I first became interested in firearms.
Thank you
This is extremely interesting and informative.
Good show, sir! Please keep up the good work.
I shoot a lot of corrosive ammo out of my Ak74&47, and my Mausers and Nagants. Also out of my Nagant pistol as well, I never have a problem with corrosion because the first thing I do when I get back from the range (corrosive ammo or not) is clean my weapons. And for corrosive ammo, what I use, and I got this from my USMC vet and gunsmith father, hot soapy water. I've never had any corrosion issues and all my firing pins and internals look great. Just make sure you dry it out well, wipe it down, and then oil or put your white lithium grease (what I use) as you normally would after it's been wiped dry. All the firearms I use corrosive ammo out of have been fine, you just gotta clean them a little more if that's what you want to do or you'll regret it.
I love the simple and informative videos on this channel.
Wow, thanks! 😉
Back in the day, I only shot surplus corrosive ammo out of my 8mm Yugo Mauser. When we got home from the range, I removed the bolt, inverted the gun in a bucket of hot, soapy water and brushed thoroughly. Followed by a clean water rinse and regular cleaning and oiling. Man those days were good.
Very informative, thanks a lot. Great video. I always clean my guns after shooting corrosive ammo but I have often wondered how fast the corrosion would set in if I didn't.
Well done video I have never seen such amazing scientific testing on firearms and ballistics with great attention to detail. It would be cool to show two identical firearms using corossive ammo types and non corrosive types. Or in future videos demonstrate your expiremental results using firearms.
How would that be any different that this other than he would be rusting a gun?
I've heard about this but never understood the WHY. Thank you for this video!
Thanks for this, seeing it compared to non-corrosive ammunition really shows how damaging it is to not clean a gun after using corrosive ammo.
If i'm not mistaken, this is more common among military surplus ammunition...
correct
Yes, Correct.
Damn that's why it's so cheap
@@SDPTheGhost that's right
@@SDPTheGhost get you some windex
I live in a country where gun possession is controlled to a point where only the relatively wealthy can afford it. Almost all of my firearms knowledge comes from RUclips. While I learned a whole lot about the way firearms function on other channels, it is yours which gives me the actual scientific knowledge of how ammunition works. You have opened my eyes and cleared so many misconceptions other sources have imprinted on me. For that, I am eternally grateful.
Well done 👍🏻 From personal experience with surplus Russian ammunition from the 60’s that used the mercuric primers, the corrosion will start much faster than sample #2.
The simple way to stop the corrosion is to wipe the bore and bolt with a patch soaked in glass cleaner and then clean the gun as normal with the bore cleaner of your choice.
I see that being very effective, since glass cleaner is water based, and the corrosive reidues are water soluble. The surfactants probably help as well. Thabks for sharing
I usually just pore boiling water down the barrel and go at it with Dawn dishsoap. Then I clean it as normal.
What a goober. No Soviet mil-surp ammo came with mercuric primers. As late as the 90's former Warsaw Pact countries were still using potassium chlorate primers for military ammo.
dbmail545 since I don’t have a bunch of stupid letters after my name like PhD or anything, took shop class in high school instead of chemistry, and am totally unfamiliar as to what the Russians used for priming compound, I guess I’ll have to defer to the biggest asshole in the room. I only know how to keep the barrels from rusting by using the same information my grandfather, who was in Korea, taught me to use. So thanks for the information dickhead!
I was wondering about Mercury fulminates as well
I was under the impression that only black powder made with salt peter was corrosive. This is very informative. Great video.
Great information! I was surprised the black powder had no signs of corrosion. When I shoot old surplus ammo that's corrosive I just run some water down the barrel and action of the firearm I used, I previously used Windex as I heard you need the ammonia inside the Windex to neutralize the corrosive salts. I now only use water, Windex is unnecessary.
Hey there! You must have quite an experience in shooting old ammo😝
Maybe a little lol
It's going to be a great weekend we got a video from BB! Thanks...:)
To my knowledge I've never had any corrosive ammo, that said great video explanation...
So happy I discovered your channel today. Fantastic content, thank you!!!
this is really cool man! thank you for the info
Great test my dude. You clearly show the science easily and explain it layman terms (a must for the yt community).
There should have also been one with blackpowder and cursive primer, sine for a large period of time the two were used together.
Mercury fulinate was also used in primers and is highly corrosive.
I think it's "fulminate"...
@@lordofthewoods Yes. Exactly. Sometimes my fingers work faster than my brain... Thanks for catching that!
Mercury fulminate also has the downside of decaying into mercury cyanate over time. Chemical composition remains the same, it's the molecular structure that changes over time, rendering such primers unusable.
This is really awesome content.
Your video is so professional and I really enjoyed it, good job man
In my case, shooting corrosive STV ammo through AKM, all it took was 4 hours of condensation to make visible, permanent black marks on my gas piston.
No other part has corroded that way.
A nice scientific experiment without and testosterone induced rants. Pure firearms facts. Very nice BB!
This is exactly why I always use a gallon of hot water to clean my Mosin barrel after using surplus ammo. After the water run a dry rag a few times through and then one with oil. Nice and clean. It's how I've kept my Mosin in such good condition for so long.
Thank you for the science sir! I appreciated learning everything discussed and demonstrated
Incredibly interesting to see deeper elaborations on topics that are mentioned so often but never really explained.Great video !
Glad you enjoyed it!
I use mostly corrosive ammo in my 8mm Mauser. To clean it I give the inside of the barrel a swab with a strong dish soap solution. Then pull the bolt, turn it so the muzzle is pointing down, and blast it was the steamer on my coffee maker. Wait until I see clean water coming out, then clean like normal.
Be warned, the barrel gets very hot using this technique.
Thank you for sharing 🙏
Dude, this is such a great video... Very cool to see it progress and just how fast it begins on sample 2. I also expected more corrosion on sample 3.
I already kew it, yet I watched your video. Did not regret it and subscribed.
Thank you, good Sir!
The primers in old black power rounds had mercury in them. That caused the brass cases to be weakened in the case of reloading. This also causes corrosion in the barrels and other parts of the gun.
Black powder fowling is hydroscopic which is why it has the reputation it does for needing to be cleaned. in a high humidity environment it will hold the moisture against the metal. it does very little in dry environments when non corrosive primers are used. if you want to see why it had the terrible reputation that it does set a sample with the black powder and corrosive priming compound. the fowling will hold the moisture and contain the salts.
Highly underrated channel
Awesome Video for sure, keep it up :)
Thanks 😊
I didn't know that the phosphorus mixture was corrosive, thanks.
Is cleaning the bore of my rifle with just really hot water adequate for dissolving the corrosive salts? I heard people say to use windex because it has ammonia. But really windex works because it is largely water based.
I typically put a spray bottle with really hot water down into the chamber and spray the barrel. Then blow the gun and barrel with an air compressor to speed drying and get out excess fouling. Then I clean the bore with solvent and patches.
Is that overkill? I could probably go without the air compressor part. I have heard in the past people just used really hot water because that is all they had.
This is why I sold (what was left of) my SKS and TT-33. They were important steps in my "gun career" but cleaning a gun for an hour after shooting it is a big pain. Also, I forgot to clean my SKS once and it never worked the same again. In the unlikely event I buy another Russian gun, it will never have corrosive ammo through it.
That's understandable! Thanks for sharing your experience😉
Matthew Millar Cleaning for an hour? Dude you swab the bore, gastube and wipe off the bolt with some oil. It’s not rocket science and if a peasant farmer from the Ukraine can somehow keep his rifle clean and in working order you definitely can.
To add to this, most SKSs have chrome lined barrels which makes them even easier to clean.
my buddy you got the shakes something fierce
Wow! Very educational video. Thanks for posting!
Thanks for the video. A very thorough experiment
So... how do I tell Ammunition with corrosive primers appart from ammunition with non-corrosive primers?
Are there any signs I can look out for?
How do I tell which of my ammo uses corrosive primers? Is there any name brand store bought ammo on the shelves today using corrosive primers?
The literature says that corrosion will start at around 50% humidity in a fired rifle using corrosive ammo it would be interesting to set up another experiment to see how fast corrosion occurs at different levels of humidity
Cool and informative.
I find Pyrodex black powder substitute to be considerably more corrosive than black powder. The manufacturer advertises that it is cleaner than black powder, in a sense that is correct because Pyrodex is considerably more energetic than black powder by weight, it is also less dense, so an equal volume charge can be expected to produce less residue than black powder since less weight is being burned. However, I find the Pyrodex residue is more difficult to clean and more corrosive. The formula for Pyrodex is essentially the same as black powder, however in addition to the standard ingredients it contains potassium perchlorate, which I believe is the source of the extra energy as well as the source of Pyrodex's extra corrosive effect. Note that Pyrodex is easily available, works well in percussion weapons, and is inexpensive compared to black powder, and the additional source of corrosion is of no consequence if the weapon is cleaned promptly after use. I sometimes do not promptly clean after use, and find myself much better off using real black powder.
Triple Seven powder is based on sugar rather than charcoal, lacks sulfer, and also contans perchlorate. It is rather expensive, but I find thie cost is offset by the fact that it is higher energy than both standard black powder or pyrodex, thus less is required to achieve a given bullet velocity, so a pound of Triple Seven will last longer than Pyrodex or standard black powder when you reduce charges as recommended by the maufacturer.
I find use of Triple seven reduces fouling compared to other options, yet still tends to be corrossive compared to black powder thus prompt cleaning is recommnded.
I would enjoy a video comparing both the volume of fouling and the corrosive effect of the various black powder substitutes with black powder itself.
My favourite choice of propellant is Olde Eynsford black powder. It is comparable to Swiss but costs less. It is approximately as energetic as Triple Seven and burns cleaner than standard black powder. I also find the fouling to be less corrosive than other choices. I have neglected cleaning at times with Olde Eynsford, at times for weeks, and gotten away with it and escaped serious corrosion. Not recommended though. I also find the cleaning easier. Another subject for a video - the ease of solubility of the fouling various propellant choices, or more simply put, the ease of cleaning. There should be a scientific way to measure that.
Cheers, and thanks for the video.
This was awesome! Great demonstration!!
Awesome video! I’m pretty sure I heard about your video from a RUclips advertisement, I might be wrong
I used some adverts when I first created the channel. I mainly put them on the Forgotten weapons channel, so that I could somehow contribute to their amazing channel
This was Very Useful Information.
Thank you.
Great explanation, thanks!
What's with the massive whiteboard with some kind of differential equation on it?
ALTON PLAYS aesthetics.
Excellent content as usual.
Thanks and this is straight forward information. Great content sir.
Florida has humidity that never goes below 40% relative and is frequently higher. I shot 7n6 through my gun, cleaned and oiled it thoroughly but saw corrosion within 48 hours. Water is your friend.
If I use some suspect ammo or ammo known to be corrosive I will clean the gun after use. I never have had a problem with rust.
Excellent video, very informative!
That was a great, informative, video. Thanks
Excellent work! I forgot to sub after stumbling across one of your previous videos. Luckily I stumbled across another, and again your work is terrific. Keep it up! And thanks.
Excellent video!
How severe was the corrosion on sample 2? What it actually pitted, or just surface rust? If it's surface rust, I wouldn't call that "ruined"
Did sample 2 start to create pitting or was it just surface rust?
It was surface rust, but there are places where corrosion is faster, so those parts will tend over time to sink more than the rest, creating pits, but not as well defined as proper pitting
Remember, there was no such things a 'Corrosive' primers before Remington invented their non-corrosive "Kleanbore' primers. Only after this do we start referring to primers as corrosive or non-corrosive, mostly following WWII. Why? Because the military were reluctant to jump on a bandwagon that had no track record of how long these new primers last in storage. The first US use of non-corrosive primers came about with the adoption of the US M1 Carbine. The Ordnance folks recognized that the carbine's short piston action would be very vulnerable if not kept clean, a difficult thing under combat conditions. This is why you seldom encounter a M1 Carbine with a bad bore. I've been firing both types for over fifty-years. I never experienced bore rust problems except for the one instance when I deliberately did not proper clean a rifle bore after firing corrosive ammo. I was planning on replacing the rifle's barrel, and wanted to see the result. The best way to properly clean 'Corrosive' primers is to use hot water or WWII era US Bore Cleaner. This type of primer residue requires a water based solution that will dissolve the salt like crystals in the bore, oil does not do it. :)
With the black powder you need to use some primer compound in the burn as it takes a primer to ignite in a rifle. The compound afterburn will be way worse as to corrosion speed.
Modern percussion caps for black powder arms are no different than the non-corrosive primer compound used in smokeless cartridges. And flintlocks don't use impact-sensitive primer compounds at all.
Very good videos! I am subscribed
I am using matches as I don’t want lead on me when I use a primer so good to know. I guess to clean as soon as possible is vital. Or stainless steel?
Awesome video, absolutely love the content.
But if cleaned after each use does it really matter?
I have shot tons of corrosive ammo with absolutely no problems.
After shooting just rinse with soapy water, then clean and relube as usual.
The salts absorb moisture, causing corrosion. During dry weather I've gone days before cleaning without without any rust.
@@900stx7 100% agree
Hope you can do more vids like this comparing different finishes as well. Ex. Cold bluing vs different powders, then hot blued, blued + oil. Etc
Though obviously if you dont take care of your tools and keep them clean theyll weather lol.
What an excellent channel/video! Subbed!
What primers do Wolf and Tula use?
Sorry for the month's-long response.....on their box, it will state "Non-Corrosive". if they are. All my Wolf and Tula ammo in different grains and types (fmj, HP etc) I've bought since 1992 have said 'non-corrosive'.
Great video man👍 i learned!!!
Great presentation! Thanks.
I don’t know what black powder is used, but real deal black powder is often not sold on store shelves due to being really dirty and corrosive, and often times are instead BP substitutes which are non-corrosive and cleaner burning while still having the same pressures of real BP so that you don’t blow up your gun. Anyways, neat video.
Hey there, you made a clever observation. The black powder used in the video is the traditional one. The substitutes are more popular in the USA because they are considered less dangerous in storage and transport, but here in Italy this distinction does not exist, so the traditional formulation is actually much more common than substitutes.
Thanks for suggesting though
@@Backyard.Ballistics Ok, good to see you have you know your stuff. Since this is real deal BP, I am surprised that the metal fared a lot better than I was expecting. Anyways, thanks for the reply and good luck on future endeavors.
Luis Maiocchi not true. BP is not really corrosive.
@@Prowbar Nonsense. It has potassium & sulfide ions in the fouling residue, so it is corrosive, just not as bad as something w/ the combo of potassium & chloride ions [like Pyrodex leaves behind.]
I instantly subscribed I love your content
you know you are watching a serious ballistician when he uses cordite for a fuse haha
Haha I noticed that too!
Mercury is also a bad primer compound while it ruins the brass. "When
fired, the mercury would amalgamate with the copper or brass making it extremely brittle." ABCs of reloading.
Greetings,
Jeff
The real deal-killer with mercury fulminate primers are that they have a shelf-life.
Great vid bro /we get a ton of corrsive ammo in canada in 7.62x39mm /54r /and some other cals to /fun to shoot /cheap /you just got to clean after your done shooting /if you do no problems at all !!
It's the same here in italy, the Russian federation kept using corrosive primers until the 80's, and there are massive amounts coming to the civilian market. I still use some of them, I just clean the gun the same day that i shoot. Thanks for sharing 😉
outstanding work
Any data as to whether or not Berdan primed ammo has a higher corrosive rating than ammo with the standard primer configuration?.
I wouldn't expect it to make any difference, but I don't know for sure
Thank you! great info.
Great channel!
Hmm I have a lot of mosin corrosive ammo. Now what is a good thing to clean corrosive residue? Some people say that it's windex.. but a video on the best way to clean corrosive would be neat
As he says in the video, potassium chloride is water soluble, like table salt. Running some water down your barrel after shooting should do a decent job. Follow it up with a good cleaning and you should be golden.
Very educational! Good work!
so if you have a old gunpowder gun clean or never clean
Hello Carlos I hav a weird question😂 if you shoot corrosive ammunition though a gun, and put it in a gun safe could the corrosive salts evaporate and corrode other guns and the gun safe? Or is it impossible?
@Backyard Ballistics
Can you do a video on different primers?
Thanks for suggesting, I'll see if I can make it into a video
@@Backyard.Ballistics
Afaik, there is also no video out there about making some.
I once left my sks for a month after firing a few corrosive rounds and the bolt had to be opened with a hammer haha. It was also heavily pitted.
Smart guy. This is what will happen to the inside of your barrel when using corrosive ammunition
That's why I try not to use Berdan primers on my milsurps. Although I *do* have a box of Mauser ammo that I need to double-check. Or at least make sure I clean the rifle right after I shoot it...
Great Video. This Channel is a clear 10/10.
I wonder what your background is though. Engineer? Chemist?
Mechanical engineer 😉
@@Backyard.Ballistics Very nice. That would have been my guess. Also the greatest profession to have, if you ask me ;)
Interesting video. Thank you Sir for your time. Thumbs up ~John
Interesting what type of steel did you use for these tests? I would be interested in seeing how other steel types resisted or fell prey to this test.
It was a simple mild steel (less than 0.2% carbon), but the low alloy steels commonly used in gun industry have very similar corrosive properties. High alloy steels tend to corrode slower, and stainless only start corroding after a certain threshold of aggresive substances is exceeded. After that though, they typically corrode very fast, with localized and deep pits.
Fascinating. Thanks!
Fulminated mercury is/was also used as a priming compound for old ammunution. Russian as well as other types of (old) military ammo
In the 80s and 90s we had Chinese 7.62x39 ammo here with corrosive primers. Very inexpensive and we shot lots of rounds. It trashed a few firearms that weren't cleaned after use. I thought it was because the primers used a mercury basesd compound. Or was potassium chlorate used in conjunction with mercury? Whatever the case we blamed "mercuric primers"
Mercury fulminate was discontinued in primers in the late 1800s for the most part. Berdan primers in surplus ammo use potassium chlorate.
Was the black power stuff like pyrodex etc? As it is not quite black powder. As in how it used to be made when black powder was all the rage. So result may vary from black power substitute variants.
However good test, keep it up!
the powder used was traditional black powder, made by Explosia of Czech Republic under the commercial name "Vesuvit". Here our law doesn't differ between traditional black powder and sustitutes, so the latter are very uncommon (I personally have never seen one single tub of them)
@@Backyard.Ballistics OK, if not substitute it should be ok. However no mix rate was given on their pages. However to be honest, I am not trying to make a big deal about this :) I was just pointing out that real black powder vs substitutes ones, can produce different results when it comes to corrosion and heat/burn time effect.
@@xz569 don't worry, I always try to reply to all of the questions I get in the comments, I like sharing info with people living all over the world! 😉👍