We actually contacted him years ago when we needed to do our anchor winch shaft. Didn’t ask for any favours, offered to pay full retail and he ghosted us. Haven’t bothered since
@@christopherforsyth5284I’m surprised at that too, especially since other channels generally love to do collaborations with other channels because it normally attracts viewers across.
Jess a huge feeling of sadness over the health of your mum, when her time comes I hope she passes with peace and kindness by her side, all the best Tony from Western Australia 🇦🇺
Pro tip. You need to have a choke hose on your air to the gun. Two meters of 3/4” hose at the gun end will give you short pressure & volume over air. Use short bursts so compressor can build up and you should find that the gun works better.
My most heartfelt condolences, I hope that Jess did manage to make the trip to NZ to see Judy one last time. Without a doubt Judy was immensely proud of both of you, I am sure other supporters of this channel would enjoy one episode honering Judy. As for the alignment, one big job off the list
My thoughts and prayers are with you guys as you say goodbye to your Mom. Thank you Judy for supporting Jess and Dame the past ten years so we can enjoy the weekly videos!
Blessing to you and your families. Having gone through this with both parents, I can understand the situation. Prayers for everyone. As for Brupeg, glad the alignment is fixed. 👍👍
A Resilient Spring Grid Coupling would have been the best quick fix for any alignment issues and flexing. A BIG plus is if anything gets caught in the prop the coupling spring will sheer saving your reduction gears from any damage. Just rewrap a new spring around the coupling. Another TIP use a mechanical lock like wire lock or bend washers on the bolts and flang edge instead of using LockTight.
Gday Crew, Although we haven't heard a lot about your mother , she sounds like a loving & caring person who is intelligent & very supportive towards her family . It speaks volumes for your character & the person you are Jess. To have children who love you & are living successful lives, such as you are is the greatest joy for any parent . Im sure mum was very proud of you & your achievements, drawing much comfort & reassurance from her family . If we can celebrate the successful life of a loving parent who has moved ahead , We are truly blessed . Much Respect to you both .
Another cracking episode, so sorry to hear about Jess's mum, hope her passing is as pain free as possible and that you both have time to grieve. Sending love n hugs to you and your families
Awesome creativity engineering as ever! Much love and respect for Jess and family. I feel a memorial of some sort, something lasting would be appropriate to pay respect such an influential impactful woman. I'm sure the whole community is sending heartfelt good wishes right now. xx💌
So much has transpired over the last ten years. Heart goes out to both of you as Judy's bright light slowly dims. This episode was dedicated to her. Maybe Jess can return from NZ with a special momento that can be secured somewhere on Brupeg in her honor.
Jess my prayers and best wishes are going out to you and your family at this hard time in your lives. I'm 60 now and I lost my mother 16 year's ago now and I miss her as much now as I ever have. For me it helps to think and talk about her alot and I know it's just a matter of time and we'll be back together. 🙏
My biggest condolences to you, Jess and family during this tough time. Having lost both of my parents I can confidently say, that it sucks… and if I’d have known how much having parents sucked, I wouldn’t have had them LOL CHEERS from Ontario Canada
May be opening a can of worms here but we no longer use spring washers on critical rotating assemblies due to there inherent weak design for high torque applications. It is much better to use just a flat washer and rely on the loctite(which has more than enough retention strength as you have seen) other than that, great work!
@@ProjectBrupeg nordlock makes good lock washers for anything super critical that has a lot of vibration. But they’re pricy, really would only consider them for a very specific application, where nothing else seems to work.
My condolences Jess, nothing can prepare anyone for something like that, even for those of us who know it’s coming. I hope those memories lose their sting and you’re able to quickly find joy in them, after years of seeing you and Damian and knowing how outstanding the two of you are, I know she was something special. When we are old and wise we are so, only after the pain of outliving our heroes, Godspeed Judy.
I love what you're doing and have been following along for quite a while. I would respectfully suggest that split-ring lock washers are not appropriate for your use and would encourage you to research and use Nord-Lock washers. I come from the wind turbine industry and we found that split-ring lock washers actually do very little once they're squashed flat...which will happen, of course, when torqued. Wind turbines can be high vibration environments and the Nord-Locks worked very reliably. Then, with those, you could use medium-strength thread locker and eliminate the requirement to use heat for future disassembly. One more suggestion for work in tight spaces, where you may not be able to use a long enough breaker bar, would be a torque multiplier. Again, we used these in the wind turbines and they're fantastic.
Thanks for this info. I actually broke the teeth off our 3/4” ratchet doing this so I will be looking into torque multipliers as a possible replacement. Thanks for saying something about the nord-locks too, I will do some reading up on them
It sounds like Judy was a wonderful mom to Jess and her sibs and you. May her memory be a blessing. Regarding Brupeg's propulsion bits, would you consider adding the side-to-side constraints/adjustment jacks you mentioned? It sounds like a good idea to me. I don't think you determined if there was any movement of the motor/gearbox. I hope Jess is feeling as fantastic as she looks. You guys are amazing.
@@ProjectBrupeg only asked because the last prop shaft I worked on had 4 alignment bolts with centre locking nuts from the flange into the coupler, was a strange set up :) hope it all stays true for you guys 👌🏼
I had the same problem on a 100ft trawl boat. He replaced the intermediate shaft and it did the same thing. I was there working on the brine water freezer and freezer hold so he asked if I would check the alinement. I tried for an hour and I get it .001 all the way around, them roll it 180*degrees and it would be closed on one side and .020 thousand on the other. So I told him he had to pull the shaft and bring it back to the machine shop and he told him he would beat my ass if there was nothing wrong. I said bring it to the shop and he called me 2 days later and said the cupping was out .022 out on the face. I didn’t have to go line the engine to the shaft because he seen me do a hundred times lol. No more shaking boat.
@@ProjectBrupeg Check all the pipes and fittings are actually clear.. Valves that you open can still restrict.. I saw a 1/4 turn that didn't fully open also some aren't full bore. Rubber pipe can have a defective liner that allows a bit to impede the flow.. in a rare case move back to the wall when no air flow.. do the other tools work ok.. is the oil doing its job.
It was good to see you checked with the motor running, i spent most of the video waiting to ask, on occasions you will see run out when the shaft is not being turned continuously due to the hydrodynamic wedge collapsing
I am so sorry to hear about Jess's mother. My condolences to Jess and Damian on this sad news. On the other hand, It's a win on prop shaft and coupling alighment.
Good video today guy's, as usual! Now since Brupeg is in the Australian Navy family are you able to use the Navy shipyard and use the machine shop there for whatever needs you have. Maybe take some time to explain this to us because it sure should be a benefit for Brupeg. 👍
Have you ever had the propshaft coupling off, to check surfaces and key etc.. and the coupling centre bolt (there's a list of possibles) Are the bolts bottoming out on the other flange. I would have liked to see you use Engineers Blue.. Plastercine.. & Dry Wipe pens also work, difficult work I use indelible pens. I did think you could check things when they've been running and warm. Is there a balance issue.. cold and hot. Put a dial gauge on the engine block at various heights and positions.. Engine could need a couple of braces.. and check mounts above chocfast and use big bolts to stop movement.
I was a machinist for over 20 years and I can't imagine it would be difficult to get that part to run true. Especially with it being a rather simple job.
Hey damo ,what about the propshaft key to coupling relationship ,easy check with dti, if the measurement changes in relationship with position of keyway
Yeah we eventually bolted the adapter in the eight different positions available (8 bolts) and picked the lowest offset. Roughly 0.10 difference was found doing that
Emotional times. Spoke at my mother's using a park & was like being there. Alinement takes trial & error. Always handy to have stainless shims (washer) for wear. Eye problem so hope this is spelt right.
Run out should be checked with adapter on the transmission, secondly is the register in the shaft flange concentric with the shaft, thirdly loctite is great stuff to use as a backup for a questionably engineered joint or fastenings are loosening due to another issue, forthly spring washers , a hangover from way back when things did vibrate loose, get some Cat hardened flats. Go to Hastings Deering, they every fastener and fitting you'll ever need, coppercoat or some other never seize is all that should be used unless the is nobility issue.
We did check the prop coupling recess and couldn’t find any measurable run out so we are confident that part was ok. Our ultimate solution is to add a flex coupling and rubber mount the engine but in Aussie that’s 10 grand right there for this boat. We will revisit flex coupling etc when the boat is in Asia as it might be more affordable at that point.
They make wrenches designed to be hit with a short handle sledge of say 4 pounds. That usually will break loose any stubborn fastener in short order. In a pinch, any 6 point box wrench can also do the same thing.
They are called flogging spanners, and get used with large sledge hammers to make up and undo big bolts in places on oil rigs where the pressure needs to stay on the inside.
Sorry to hear about Jess's mom. Regarding the alignment, when you had it perfect, was the boat on the hard or floating? That will change things considerably.
Stick the socket on the bar rest the bar on the floor, bump the boat into and quickly out of gear, done it before in a pinch, bit risky though if you dont take it out of gear quick enough
If your shaft had a wobble in it that would translate into compressing the inner diameter (where it rides against the shaft) of your packing material - creating a larger leak through from the stuffing box and you'd have to keep tightening your packing gland (the part that compresses your packing into the stuffing box). You haven't had that problem that I am aware of, so I think you can assume your line shaft is true. (Ex U.S. Navy Engineer)
No haven’t needed to touch the gland. It’s a grease filled shaft with a bronze sand seal at the prop end, grease in the tube and a packing at the inboard end. We do get grease squeezing through the packing which we wipe off every few hours but we assumed that was normal (love to know if it’s not) and related to excess pressure in the grease needing to find an exit over time. We don’t get water because of the sand seal and full grease tube
@@ProjectBrupeg not sure, they aren't particularly expensive tools to buy per say, but are most commonly used in automotive repair. I think it's pretty common to be able to rent them for a few hours from DIY automotive stores in my country. Perhaps AUS doesn't have automotive tool rentals though.
@@ProjectBrupeg ahh that's too bad, they are not particularly expensive tools here, around $100-200, and are used mostly in automotive and other applications where open flames are not going to end well for you
You got to find best way which isnt always the one that comes to mind in heat of battle....easiest way is remove the propshaft coupling then put the clock on the propshaft and clock the inner spiggot diameter of gearbox flange while turning propshaft then move the engine till close as you can get it.....both spiggots should be tight fit into flanges then all should be spot on when bolted up....this does depend on having straight propshaft and very little play in cutlas bearings......this job we always do on hardstand with prop off.....but after propshaft been out and trued , balanced and cutlas bearing clearences checked....we also do it without the throat packing....but you got it close enough while in the water.😂 prayers for family😔
Very specific type of prop design. It’s good but mostly an outboard thing. It’s designed to reduce tip vortex and and increase thrust etc. this is something our nozzle does very well images.app.goo.gl/MyinqXP71zFdWB5J7
It absolutely would but when we priced this up, it’s around 7-10 grand. (3k for coupling, 3k for a new metric prop coupling (as they can’t use the adapter to join metric gearbox to imperial prop shaft), 1k for new Chockfast as we need to move the engine forward with a new flex coupling, plus a hose of other mods to existing systems to accomodate moving engine).
Is there any taper on the adapter's locating spigots? I don't mean a precision Morse-taper, just a very long male-female chamfer. I was wondering if it might help make things 'self-aligning' as the parts came together. (Apologies if this is a stupid idea.)
I don't know about in marine applications but usually couplings like this are dowelled and the dowels take the load and the bolts clamp the flanges. Perhaps in marine it's different for alignment adjustment but accurately machined spigots would seem to contradict this.
I’ve not done alignment on lots of boats so only have this boat to go off. The two machinists we have worked with over the years are both marine specialists and seem to suggest it’s a normal coupling adapter. I’m sure other types exist but I have only ever worked with this layout before. Dame
Hi Your logic is great, however if the metal machining that is the culprit ,it has been like that since it was installed nothing has changed how come the wobble was not there from the outset?
Didn’t see it right away. Was a fluke chance we were at a specific rpm that made things wobble, steaming along in gear and I noticed the ball valve on the bottom of the gearbox moving slightly. Dual gauged it and knew we had an issue to deal with
This! 👍 Obviously the pressure’s got to be there, but there’s got to be sufficient cfm available AT THE GUN. More cfm, more better. That sounded as limp as wet spaghetti compared to the 3/4” Ingersoll Rand job that I use for tractor work.
So we have a 13mm line on this gun and two 90L tanks with 120psi. A couple of thoughts are the air line is 100ft so that’s a restriction in itself and could be limiting the gun. That said I might try and put a 19mm short hose together as the connector pipes to the tanks are 1.25” stainless so plenty of flow there. Can’t really increase pressure easily without making compressor mods
@@ProjectBrupeg Your hose dia and fittings sound ok but that’s a long old line for sure, mine’s either 20’ or 25’. I think it’s 25’ but can’t remember exactly ‘cause it’s years since I bought it. Basic rule is the shorter the better for high flow gear like bigger ugga-duggas.
Cutting Edge Engineering Brisbane.
Someone beat me too it!
We actually contacted him years ago when we needed to do our anchor winch shaft. Didn’t ask for any favours, offered to pay full retail and he ghosted us. Haven’t bothered since
@@ProjectBrupeg: Humm, I'm surprised at that .
@@christopherforsyth5284I’m surprised at that too, especially since other channels generally love to do collaborations with other channels because it normally attracts viewers across.
@@ProjectBrupegcutting edge engineering dose machinery only nothing marine
So very sorry to hear about Jess's mom, she sounds like a great and wonderful mother.
Our deepest condolences to you both.
Big shout out to Jess’s mommy may her next life be as fruitful, safe and as precious as this one.
Jess a huge feeling of sadness over the health of your mum, when her time comes I hope she passes with peace and kindness by her side, all the best
Tony from Western Australia 🇦🇺
Our warmest thoughts and prayers go out to you, Jess
Pro tip.
You need to have a choke hose on your air to the gun. Two meters of 3/4” hose at the gun end will give you short pressure & volume over air. Use short bursts so compressor can build up and you should find that the gun works better.
Ah... So very sorry Jess and family for your loss... I lost mine 5 years ago and I still miss her....
I own an old Land Rover, life became so much easier after I got an induction heater. Great for freeing up old bolts.
I am so very sorry Jess and your family for your loss. My deepest condolences to the Brupeg family.
your alignment episodes taught me exactly what I needed to know! ty!
Prayers of comfort for Judy, and peace for the rest of the family.
Condolences to you both. The positive is that Judy saw Brupeg launch and fulfill its purpose with the cadets. Much love
So very sorry to hear about Jess’s mom. Condolences from your friend in 🇨🇦
So sorry about your mom. Keep smiling as you guys are famous for
My most heartfelt condolences, I hope that Jess did manage to make the trip to NZ to see Judy one last time.
Without a doubt Judy was immensely proud of both of you,
I am sure other supporters of this channel would enjoy one episode honering Judy.
As for the alignment, one big job off the list
Once upon a time we used to run coolant when grinding and built in a bit of tolerance to avoid bolts bottoming out.
Sorry for the loss of your mum Jess. Only time will heal grief so take care.
I'm sorry to hear about jess's mother and my condolences to you both for the loss love you both ❤️
My thoughts and prayers are with you guys as you say goodbye to your Mom. Thank you Judy for supporting Jess and Dame the past ten years so we can enjoy the weekly videos!
Deepest condolences to you all. ❤ Thoughts and prayers to you.
Thoughts and prayers to your entire family.
Blessing to you and your families. Having gone through this with both parents, I can understand the situation. Prayers for everyone.
As for Brupeg, glad the alignment is fixed. 👍👍
Thanks very much
A Resilient Spring Grid Coupling would have been the best quick fix for any alignment issues and flexing. A BIG plus is if anything gets caught in the prop the coupling spring will sheer saving your reduction gears from any damage. Just rewrap a new spring around the coupling. Another TIP use a mechanical lock like wire lock or bend washers on the bolts and flang edge instead of using LockTight.
Good point! I was thinking U-joint, but there is not enough space between the gearbox and the prop shaft to fit a U-joint.
that bolt grinding jig is amazing. very clever.
So very sorry to hear about Judy. Deepest condolences ❤
Gday Crew,
Although we haven't heard a lot about your mother ,
she sounds like a loving & caring person who is intelligent & very supportive towards her family .
It speaks volumes for your character & the person you are Jess.
To have children who love you & are living successful lives, such as you are is the greatest joy for any parent .
Im sure mum was very proud of you & your achievements,
drawing much comfort & reassurance from her family .
If we can celebrate the successful life of a loving parent who has moved ahead ,
We are truly blessed .
Much Respect to you both .
Another cracking episode, so sorry to hear about Jess's mum, hope her passing is as pain free as possible and that you both have time to grieve.
Sending love n hugs to you and your families
Awesome creativity engineering as ever! Much love and respect for Jess and family. I feel a memorial of some sort, something lasting would be appropriate to pay respect such an influential impactful woman. I'm sure the whole community is sending heartfelt good wishes right now. xx💌
So much has transpired over the last ten years. Heart goes out to both of you as Judy's bright light slowly dims. This episode was dedicated to her. Maybe Jess can return from NZ with a special momento that can be secured somewhere on Brupeg in her honor.
Jess my prayers and best wishes are going out to you and your family at this hard time in your lives. I'm 60 now and I lost my mother 16 year's ago now and I miss her as much now as I ever have. For me it helps to think and talk about her alot and I know it's just a matter of time and we'll be back together. 🙏
Sorry to hear about your mother, Jess. I hope her passing is peaceful.
My biggest condolences to you, Jess and family during this tough time. Having lost both of my parents I can confidently say, that it sucks… and if I’d have known how much having parents sucked, I wouldn’t have had them LOL
CHEERS from Ontario Canada
Sad news at the end,we sympathize and wish you all strength in the coming period to get closure with the loss of
May be opening a can of worms here but we no longer use spring washers on critical rotating assemblies due to there inherent weak design for high torque applications. It is much better to use just a flat washer and rely on the loctite(which has more than enough retention strength as you have seen) other than that, great work!
fine pitch thread helps with avoiding loosening.
Thanks, yeah I’ve always wondered just how good springs are but never knew industry was ditching them.
@@ProjectBrupeg yeah I’ve really only noticed the change in the last 4 years. They still have there place on panel covers etc
@codybailey4823 I hate using them in torque applications cause I’m always shit scared they will splay out and the bolt just goes all limp
@@ProjectBrupeg nordlock makes good lock washers for anything super critical that has a lot of vibration. But they’re pricy, really would only consider them for a very specific application, where nothing else seems to work.
My condolences Jess, nothing can prepare anyone for something like that, even for those of us who know it’s coming. I hope those memories lose their sting and you’re able to quickly find joy in them, after years of seeing you and Damian and knowing how outstanding the two of you are, I know she was something special.
When we are old and wise we are so, only after the pain of outliving our heroes, Godspeed Judy.
I’m so sorry about Judy.
I’ve always enjoyed the part of your outro with the sparks, glove and music. With that, it can help us remember your mom too.
You must have much more air to the impact wrench!
May I offer my sympathy for Mom. With much Aloha...
Thanks Norm
You guys need a torque multiplier, same as truck drivers carry for undoing lug nuts. 👍🏴
Allow for craft weight on the bearing though.
So that’s all measured with the shaft at the bottom of the bearing.
Condolences to you both.
My condolences for Jess
Stark difference in alignment procedure compared to SV Seeker
Loctite will soften at about 120 degs C. But you have to move it while it’s hot.
I love what you're doing and have been following along for quite a while. I would respectfully suggest that split-ring lock washers are not appropriate for your use and would encourage you to research and use Nord-Lock washers. I come from the wind turbine industry and we found that split-ring lock washers actually do very little once they're squashed flat...which will happen, of course, when torqued. Wind turbines can be high vibration environments and the Nord-Locks worked very reliably. Then, with those, you could use medium-strength thread locker and eliminate the requirement to use heat for future disassembly.
One more suggestion for work in tight spaces, where you may not be able to use a long enough breaker bar, would be a torque multiplier. Again, we used these in the wind turbines and they're fantastic.
Thanks for this info. I actually broke the teeth off our 3/4” ratchet doing this so I will be looking into torque multipliers as a possible replacement. Thanks for saying something about the nord-locks too, I will do some reading up on them
Losing a parent sucks no matter how old you are, lost my mum when i was 55 and it hits hard. my condolances to both of you.
My condolences to you and Jess. Time to head for NZ?
It sounds like Judy was a wonderful mom to Jess and her sibs and you. May her memory be a blessing. Regarding Brupeg's propulsion bits, would you consider adding the side-to-side constraints/adjustment jacks you mentioned? It sounds like a good idea to me. I don't think you determined if there was any movement of the motor/gearbox. I hope Jess is feeling as fantastic as she looks. You guys are amazing.
Damo is it possible you cut the bolts a hair to long and they pushed the flange on the prop shaft side out of alignment?
Actually yes. We realised early on however. Shaved a mm off every bolt and that issue went away.
@@ProjectBrupeg only asked because the last prop shaft I worked on had 4 alignment bolts with centre locking nuts from the flange into the coupler, was a strange set up :) hope it all stays true for you guys 👌🏼
I had the same problem on a 100ft trawl boat. He replaced the intermediate shaft and it did the same thing. I was there working on the brine water freezer and freezer hold so he asked if I would check the alinement. I tried for an hour and I get it .001 all the way around, them roll it 180*degrees and it would be closed on one side and .020 thousand on the other. So I told him he had to pull the shaft and bring it back to the machine shop and he told him he would beat my ass if there was nothing wrong. I said bring it to the shop and he called me 2 days later and said the cupping was out .022 out on the face. I didn’t have to go line the engine to the shaft because he seen me do a hundred times lol. No more shaking boat.
Sorry for your guys loss
Rattle gun sounds underpowered, like it's not got the pressure it wants
We think it’s flow restricted. Making plans to increase this
Agreed, she's not sounding happy
@@ProjectBrupeg
Check all the pipes and fittings are actually clear..
Valves that you open can still restrict.. I saw a 1/4 turn that didn't fully open also some aren't full bore.
Rubber pipe can have a defective liner that allows a bit to impede the flow.. in a rare case move back to the wall when no air flow.. do the other tools work ok.. is the oil doing its job.
My thoughts and prayers for Jess’s Mom. I’m lost mine in May…….. All the best
It was good to see you checked with the motor running, i spent most of the video waiting to ask, on occasions you will see run out when the shaft is not being turned continuously due to the hydrodynamic wedge collapsing
I am so sorry to hear about Jess's mother. My condolences to Jess and Damian on this sad news. On the other hand, It's a win on prop shaft and coupling alighment.
Good video today guy's, as usual! Now since Brupeg is in the Australian Navy family are you able to use the Navy shipyard and use the machine shop there for whatever needs you have. Maybe take some time to explain this to us because it sure should be a benefit for Brupeg. 👍
Condolences from a fellow orphan (and last surviving sibling.)
Deepest condolences, stay strong ❤❤❤❤
Very sorry to hear about this 😞
Have you ever had the propshaft coupling off, to check surfaces and key etc..
and the coupling centre bolt (there's a list of possibles)
Are the bolts bottoming out on the other flange.
I would have liked to see you use Engineers Blue..
Plastercine..
&
Dry Wipe pens also work, difficult work I use indelible pens.
I did think you could check things when they've been running and warm.
Is there a balance issue.. cold and hot.
Put a dial gauge on the engine block at various heights and positions..
Engine could need a couple of braces..
and check mounts above chocfast and use big bolts to stop movement.
I was a machinist for over 20 years and I can't imagine it would be difficult to get that part to run true.
Especially with it being a rather simple job.
Yip. Completely agree. Hence we didn’t even check the spigot last time as we made an assumption it would be an easy part to turn.
Sorry for your mum Jess! 😢
RIP Judy xx
All are in my prayers!
Hey damo ,what about the propshaft key to coupling relationship ,easy check with dti, if the measurement changes in relationship with position of keyway
Yeah we eventually bolted the adapter in the eight different positions available (8 bolts) and picked the lowest offset. Roughly 0.10 difference was found doing that
On the shaft the main thing is that the shaft be in the center of the stuffing box when alingment is completed.
Use Cat bolts and hardware when you can mate.
They have a huge list of hardware and hex heads are taller than all others.
With that tiny torch you got no bloody chance
Emotional times. Spoke at my mother's using a park & was like being there.
Alinement takes trial & error. Always handy to have stainless shims (washer) for wear.
Eye problem so hope this is spelt right.
Mark flanges. Dial indicator on flange faces, write down, see flex . Machine spacer to suit.use washer shims.
Run out should be checked with adapter on the transmission, secondly is the register in the shaft flange concentric with the shaft, thirdly loctite is great stuff to use as a backup for a questionably engineered joint or fastenings are loosening due to another issue, forthly spring washers , a hangover from way back when things did vibrate loose, get some Cat hardened flats. Go to Hastings Deering, they every fastener and fitting you'll ever need, coppercoat or some other never seize is all that should be used unless the is nobility issue.
We did check the prop coupling recess and couldn’t find any measurable run out so we are confident that part was ok. Our ultimate solution is to add a flex coupling and rubber mount the engine but in Aussie that’s 10 grand right there for this boat. We will revisit flex coupling etc when the boat is in Asia as it might be more affordable at that point.
Sorry to hear about Jess's mom. Rattle gun, seems like not much rattle left.
Thoughts and prayers
deepest condolences to you both.
What about measuring the glatness of the flanges and 90 deg to shaft?
They make wrenches designed to be hit with a short handle sledge of say 4 pounds. That usually will break loose any stubborn fastener in short order. In a pinch, any 6 point box wrench can also do the same thing.
They are called flogging spanners, and get used with large sledge hammers to make up and undo big bolts in places on oil rigs where the pressure needs to stay on the inside.
Sorry to hear about Jess's mom. Regarding the alignment, when you had it perfect, was the boat on the hard or floating? That will change things considerably.
Floating
Huge love to you, Judy! God will welcome you into his kingdom!
if the spigots are out the pcd on each set holes wont be in line because the spigot would have been used to line up the pcd on each set of holes
Stick the socket on the bar rest the bar on the floor, bump the boat into and quickly out of gear, done it before in a pinch, bit risky though if you dont take it out of gear quick enough
So true your comments on welding gal. 🤣🤣🤣
Flexi Coupling is the way to go!
Would love that but all up to do that on Brupeg is around 10 grand. Many changes need to be made to fit the coupling (itself only $3200)
You need a ratchet style torque multiplier. That would have helped wonders in getting those bolts broke loose.
My sympathy for jess and Mum💔
Induction coil is your friend
If your shaft had a wobble in it that would translate into compressing the inner diameter (where it rides against the shaft) of your packing material - creating a larger leak through from the stuffing box and you'd have to keep tightening your packing gland (the part that compresses your packing into the stuffing box). You haven't had that problem that I am aware of, so I think you can assume your line shaft is true. (Ex U.S. Navy Engineer)
No haven’t needed to touch the gland. It’s a grease filled shaft with a bronze sand seal at the prop end, grease in the tube and a packing at the inboard end. We do get grease squeezing through the packing which we wipe off every few hours but we assumed that was normal (love to know if it’s not) and related to excess pressure in the grease needing to find an exit over time. We don’t get water because of the sand seal and full grease tube
An Induction bolt heater is the proper tool to heat just the bolt and break the locktite
That might be but how many boats have them
@@ProjectBrupeg not sure, they aren't particularly expensive tools to buy per say, but are most commonly used in automotive repair. I think it's pretty common to be able to rent them for a few hours from DIY automotive stores in my country. Perhaps AUS doesn't have automotive tool rentals though.
Nah that’s definitely not a thing here. Maybe a few basic things like compressors and maybe floor sanders but specific tools, not a chance
@@ProjectBrupeg ahh that's too bad, they are not particularly expensive tools here, around $100-200, and are used mostly in automotive and other applications where open flames are not going to end well for you
You got to find best way which isnt always the one that comes to mind in heat of battle....easiest way is remove the propshaft coupling then put the clock on the propshaft and clock the inner spiggot diameter of gearbox flange while turning propshaft then move the engine till close as you can get it.....both spiggots should be tight fit into flanges then all should be spot on when bolted up....this does depend on having straight propshaft and very little play in cutlas bearings......this job we always do on hardstand with prop off.....but after propshaft been out and trued , balanced and cutlas bearing clearences checked....we also do it without the throat packing....but you got it close enough while in the water.😂 prayers for family😔
A Swallow prop would make Brupeg bulletproof.
Whats a Swallow prop ?
@dnomyarnostaw about 60grand in Brupegs case
@@ProjectBrupeg What IS a "Swallow" prop?
Very specific type of prop design. It’s good but mostly an outboard thing. It’s designed to reduce tip vortex and and increase thrust etc. this is something our nozzle does very well
images.app.goo.gl/MyinqXP71zFdWB5J7
@@ProjectBrupeg FFS, are you two guys talking about a SHARROW Prop ????
Once you have finished training the Australia navy cadets maybe you should pop over the pond and see if you can teach the RNZN how to navigate! 😂😂😂
God bless Duncan!
How much does the engine vibrate? Can you balance a coin on it ?
Pretty much. Haven’t tried it but wouldn’t surprise me if it can be done
Flexable disc coupling will fix the problem.
It absolutely would but when we priced this up, it’s around 7-10 grand. (3k for coupling, 3k for a new metric prop coupling (as they can’t use the adapter to join metric gearbox to imperial prop shaft), 1k for new Chockfast as we need to move the engine forward with a new flex coupling, plus a hose of other mods to existing systems to accomodate moving engine).
Is the middle disk slightly off set to allow alignment
it sounds like the air pressure to low. My 3/4" air impact creames at around 150psi.
Is there any taper on the adapter's locating spigots? I don't mean a precision Morse-taper, just a very long male-female chamfer.
I was wondering if it might help make things 'self-aligning' as the parts came together.
(Apologies if this is a stupid idea.)
Yeah small chamfer but no taper as such.
I don't know about in marine applications but usually couplings like this are dowelled and the dowels take the load and the bolts clamp the flanges. Perhaps in marine it's different for alignment adjustment but accurately machined spigots would seem to contradict this.
I’ve not done alignment on lots of boats so only have this boat to go off. The two machinists we have worked with over the years are both marine specialists and seem to suggest it’s a normal coupling adapter. I’m sure other types exist but I have only ever worked with this layout before. Dame
They do make a dressing tool to square up your grinding wheel.
If the readings with feelers is less than .003" inch your golden😢
Hi Your logic is great, however if the metal machining that is the culprit ,it has been like that since it was installed nothing has changed how come the wobble was not there from the outset?
Didn’t see it right away. Was a fluke chance we were at a specific rpm that made things wobble, steaming along in gear and I noticed the ball valve on the bottom of the gearbox moving slightly. Dual gauged it and knew we had an issue to deal with
@@ProjectBrupeg Love your videos always happy and uplifting , your engineering has helped me problem solve on my own plastic boat!
The impact wrench only develops full torque with full air flow. NOT just pressure, FLOW. Hint your coupler and hose are too small.
He needs a half inch or 12 mil air line for that 3/4" impact to get 850 break away torque. Or a 1" cordless impact
This! 👍
Obviously the pressure’s got to be there, but there’s got to be sufficient cfm available AT THE GUN.
More cfm, more better.
That sounded as limp as wet spaghetti compared to the 3/4” Ingersoll Rand job that I use for tractor work.
So we have a 13mm line on this gun and two 90L tanks with 120psi. A couple of thoughts are the air line is 100ft so that’s a restriction in itself and could be limiting the gun. That said I might try and put a 19mm short hose together as the connector pipes to the tanks are 1.25” stainless so plenty of flow there. Can’t really increase pressure easily without making compressor mods
@@ProjectBrupeg Your hose dia and fittings sound ok but that’s a long old line for sure, mine’s either 20’ or 25’. I think it’s 25’ but can’t remember exactly ‘cause it’s years since I bought it.
Basic rule is the shorter the better for high flow gear like bigger ugga-duggas.
yep need big hoses