Interesting. At first, I thought that all you needed was a vee groove for the cylindrical rod to sit in, but then it became clear why that would be a nuisance. Regards, Mark
Clever ideas all around! Reupload or no, I've never seen this, and may just have to adapt a similar tool to my machines. The only issue I see between the Screwyballs vs the rotating bar, is contact area. The Screwyballs are point contact, which can leave an indent in the part. For squaring up a rough-sawn block, that's no problem... But I'd be hesitant to put a finished surface against the ball, if a particular setup needs it. Or, if there's not much stock to remove, and the indent is deeper than the material I have left to remove. The rotating bar, on the other hand, is a large contact area, which would mitigate this issue. Granted, one could put a dowel pin behind, as you demonstrated... But that takes up precious vise space, for those of us with small machines.
Hi Chuck, how are you? I hope fine. Thank you for mentioning me at the beginning of the video, happy you remember me. I think this is another proove how good, fair and frendly is the yt machinist community. I wish all the best for you and your family. Big hugs from Italy.
It must be Tuesday! Interesting tool, at first it looks like a very simple job. However upon closer inspection it seems a bit more complicated. Like you said probably won't see much use, but then you never know. I was wondering if a spherical shape might be more useful than a rod? I'm thinking a rod only works in flat plane "X,Y". Whereas a sphere, I think, might work in the "X,Y,Z" plane. Then again I could be completely wrong. BTW, Chui is missed. I would liked to have gotten to know him better. KOKO!
I initially thought spherical would be good too. But does result in a potential dent in the part. Joe Pie often uses a large ball bearing with a flat on one side to do this job. Great for parts you don’t need to hold really tight but this is much better when you need to grunt on it in the vice.
Hi Chuck! I remember this and recall it seemed over complicated for what it does - mainly allow for uneven clamping by presenting a single point load on the vice to allow tilting AND redirect that point load to the vice and tool rather than the part to prevent dimpling and damage. However, one of it's flaws (besides taking up a lot of vice space) it's using a hard rod against the part. Who knows where the high spots on the part may be? Maybe near the center and one end which would lead to uneven clamping, anyway. A dished rod would help to give 2 points of contact out at the edges. I would think turning a jaw sized block of stock into a very shallow truncated lens - convex for the jaw side and concave for the part side would be an alternate Screwyball® and just as simple to use. Maybe bond a aluminum or other material on the part side to allow deformation and better part contact. Thinking inside the box! (with no food and little air). Oh well. All that just to HI! and I hope you are doing well.
Sorry but I don't understand the point of this. I've always just used a hardened and ground dowel pin. That placed on the movable jaw will guarantee the block sits flat on the fixed or solid jaw. Repeat for the side 180 degrees from the one just machined gives you 2 parallel sides. Always keep the first side against that fixed jaw. Once you have two sides done you can use same procedure to get your other sides exactly at 90. What doies this do that the aforementioned not do ? What am I missing ?
thanks for viewing and I totally agree with you, when I produced the video it is fine, but for some reason YT makes it choppy, this is the second video that has done this....I will resolve..
Please refer to the chuck jaws as fixed and moveable or dynamic. Hard to know what you’re talking saying front and back jaws only to realize you’re not talking about them correctly.
If you can’t figure out what he’s saying and what he’s trying to get across to the viewer you need to pass over his videos and start with videos that are much more basic. This little seemingly insignificant tool he makes, although his method is not what I would have done, is an amazingly handy tool. And I think that is the point of the video. His logic from deciding not to put chamfers on the block onwards is something novice machinists must learn to advance in the trade. If you insist on picking apart nomenclature on someone’s video where the vast majority of information is valuable, maybe you should start a channel and make your own videos and subject yourself to the scrutiny of others. Good video and great information that is valuable to machinists of all levels.
@ been machining for 25yrs and his terminology is what screws the video up. I was bored so I watched it. It was very basic yet confusing based on his terminology. 😉
@@outsidescrewball youtube re-encodes what you upload, and it didn't like the video that came out of your editor software. See if you can change the encoding settings in your editor, re-export the video there, and re-upload. Usually when it freezes like that periodically, it's too many "reference frames", or in other words the keyframes are too far apart. Not sure what editor you use, or how detailed it lets you set the output encoding settings. But it's weird because it progressively gets worse the further in the video it goes
Always good. Thanks Chuck.
Interesting. At first, I thought that all you needed was a vee groove for the cylindrical rod to sit in, but then it became clear why that would be a nuisance.
Regards, Mark
Hello Mark...thank for viewing and your comments....best, Chuck
Chuck, this is one of those that will be used seldom, but it's the only thing that does what it does.
Good one.
Jere
Hello Jere, thanks for viewing and your supportive comments
Clever ideas all around! Reupload or no, I've never seen this, and may just have to adapt a similar tool to my machines.
The only issue I see between the Screwyballs vs the rotating bar, is contact area. The Screwyballs are point contact, which can leave an indent in the part. For squaring up a rough-sawn block, that's no problem... But I'd be hesitant to put a finished surface against the ball, if a particular setup needs it. Or, if there's not much stock to remove, and the indent is deeper than the material I have left to remove.
The rotating bar, on the other hand, is a large contact area, which would mitigate this issue. Granted, one could put a dowel pin behind, as you demonstrated... But that takes up precious vise space, for those of us with small machines.
thanks for viewing and your supportive comments.....
Hi Chuck, how are you? I hope fine. Thank you for mentioning me at the beginning of the video, happy you remember me. I think this is another proove how good, fair and frendly is the yt machinist community. I wish all the best for you and your family. Big hugs from Italy.
Hello Cosmo....it was nice to hear from you and I enjoyed remembering your contact back then when I originally posted the build....best regards...
It must be Tuesday! Interesting tool, at first it looks like a very simple job. However upon closer inspection it seems a bit more complicated. Like you said probably won't see much use, but then you never know. I was wondering if a spherical shape might be more useful than a rod? I'm thinking a rod only works in flat plane "X,Y". Whereas a sphere, I think, might work in the "X,Y,Z" plane. Then again I could be completely wrong. BTW, Chui is missed. I would liked to have gotten to know him better. KOKO!
Thanks for viewing and the kind words about Chui...I surely miss him and talk to him when I am in my shop...I know he is looking over me....thanks Jim
I initially thought spherical would be good too. But does result in a potential dent in the part. Joe Pie often uses a large ball bearing with a flat on one side to do this job. Great for parts you don’t need to hold really tight but this is much better when you need to grunt on it in the vice.
Hi Chuck!
I remember this and recall it seemed over complicated for what it does - mainly allow for uneven clamping by presenting a single point load on the vice to allow tilting AND redirect that point load to the vice and tool rather than the part to prevent dimpling and damage. However, one of it's flaws (besides taking up a lot of vice space) it's using a hard rod against the part. Who knows where the high spots on the part may be? Maybe near the center and one end which would lead to uneven clamping, anyway. A dished rod would help to give 2 points of contact out at the edges.
I would think turning a jaw sized block of stock into a very shallow truncated lens - convex for the jaw side and concave for the part side would be an alternate Screwyball® and just as simple to use. Maybe bond a aluminum or other material on the part side to allow deformation and better part contact. Thinking inside the box! (with no food and little air).
Oh well. All that just to HI! and I hope you are doing well.
Hello Eddie....nice to hear from you and alway enjoy your insights to machining...life is good here and I hope all is well with you
Was this video shot a while back? Regardless beautiful work!
Thanks for viewing and yes it was a remix from my archives of videos and thought it would be good to share....thank you for your supportive comment
Sorry but I don't understand the point of this. I've always just used a hardened and ground dowel pin. That placed on the movable jaw will guarantee the block sits flat on the fixed or solid jaw. Repeat for the side 180 degrees from the one just machined gives you 2 parallel sides. Always keep the first side against that fixed jaw. Once you have two sides done you can use same procedure to get your other sides exactly at 90. What doies this do that the aforementioned not do ? What am I missing ?
Stop motion videos on machining is somewhat disconcerting.
thanks for viewing and I totally agree with you, when I produced the video it is fine, but for some reason YT makes it choppy, this is the second video that has done this....I will resolve..
Please refer to the chuck jaws as fixed and moveable or dynamic. Hard to know what you’re talking saying front and back jaws only to realize you’re not talking about them correctly.
Thanks for viewing and your comments (agreed).....
If you can’t figure out what he’s saying and what he’s trying to get across to the viewer you need to pass over his videos and start with videos that are much more basic.
This little seemingly insignificant tool he makes, although his method is not what I would have done, is an amazingly handy tool. And I think that is the point of the video.
His logic from deciding not to put chamfers on the block onwards is something novice machinists must learn to advance in the trade.
If you insist on picking apart nomenclature on someone’s video where the vast majority of information is valuable, maybe you should start a channel and make your own videos and subject yourself to the scrutiny of others.
Good video and great information that is valuable to machinists of all levels.
@ been machining for 25yrs and his terminology is what screws the video up. I was bored so I watched it. It was very basic yet confusing based on his terminology. 😉
The Russians are very good engineers and machines I what a few of there channels. That bloke metrology is a worry !
Kit from down under
thanks for viewing and your comments....
Choppy video
thanks for viewing, YT had a issue with the video, it was perfect upon production...
@@outsidescrewball youtube re-encodes what you upload, and it didn't like the video that came out of your editor software. See if you can change the encoding settings in your editor, re-export the video there, and re-upload. Usually when it freezes like that periodically, it's too many "reference frames", or in other words the keyframes are too far apart. Not sure what editor you use, or how detailed it lets you set the output encoding settings. But it's weird because it progressively gets worse the further in the video it goes
Wow, I thought you did that on purpose. It was driving me crazy. I really wanted to see this but…