🤔 wait a minute you mean you some Ingenuity and thought and elbow grease? What are you crazy buddy? 😂 we can't have people thinking for themselves we have to be told what to buy what to do what to think what to feel what invisible Boogeyman to be scared of...🤣 I mean come on it's not like we were born individuals, with the DNA to hunt, gather, build and defend ourselves! What's wrong with you? Haven't you been listening to the fem Nazis and woke culture? I mean come on let's get with the program I mean deprogram-ing 😂😂😂
I fitted organic pads once. They lasted 4 rides in the british winter, i was stunned when i saw they was done. Never looked back from sintered again, more performance last 10 times longer no brainer for me.
@@gethappycyclingcampingoutdoors the problem are the rotors, calipers aren’t gonna cause anything. I always used semi metallic, i’m going to try resin/organic soon, but check first the rotors (usually only shimano rotors have resin pads only)
Glazing can also be the result of not enough hard use,to much covering of the brakes causing drag so you may need to once in awhile really pull up hard at a low speed to rid the disc of crud this also gives good indication how well your kit is ,was leavers firm weeping fluids etched.
Always run sintered as organic are crap on my Code brakes and the avid sintered have always been great on my magura 220mm semi floating dics but now trying CL pads and these are proving very good as I used to use these years ago in motocross.
Semi metallic on my m7000s, have been toying with putting some sintered on the back soon though. Usually go with Uber bikes (with fins) but needed a pair promptly recently so my LBS hooked me up with their own ones 👍🏻
@@bmw540ise Didn't think of this either, a buddy convinced of this after i complained about overheating my resin pads in the Alps and it worked a charm ! As i like riding steep stuff, the back brake gives me the power to bang on if needed and i still can modulate my front brake in tight turns - so it's a win-win !
Thank you very much for making this video! I had made a suggestion for this a while back and I'm sure I'm not the only one that had questions. All questions answered now. Thanks!
@@mrvwbug4423 maybe depends on your winter? For me, winter = Fat Bike, and definitely resin is good. It's rarely wet when it's that frozen. In contrast, Sintered 100% for cyclocross. I've worn resin pads in a weekend of muddy races.
Shimano resin pads lasts me aprox. 1000 Km/ pair. I never had fading power issues. I always alternate front/rear usage so that I can give them time to cool down. And I try to brake in short bursts rather a prolonged soft usage that builds up heat and smooth the pads.
That doesn't apply on all trails. Sometimes it's just gnarly and steep for 5+ minutes straight and if you're not a world cup downhill racer you might need to have both your brakes applied more than you can let off to cool them down.
@@mallias2683 I just brake almost equally front and rear together, which puts less heat into them than using only one or the other, and also do as you said, and basically attack the brakes in a good traction area and then let go for (tire) grip and brake cooling. Never had overheating on my resin pads, however I haven't done a lot of downhill, and I'll be riding Monarch and Whole Enchilada in 2 months and 7000' of descent, I don't think my 2yr old resin pads are gonna appreciate that. Lol. So I'm looking at ceramic pads
@@owenbrown2817 You’re braking wrong lol, the front brake gets used way heavier in mtb, over use of rear brake causes fish tailing. I’ve torn my rear brake line in the past and continued without a problem, sticky tires help a great deal but mtb is front brake biased for sure
@@serge805 Yeahh that’s very true. Definitely something I need to learn and utilise especially on speed sections. End of the day it’s personal preference but your point is 100% valid 👍
Oh wow, it IS more complicated than I thought, I suspect that my 3 year old factory pads are some kind of semimetallic Tektro, I reckon the local bike shop has what I need, I'll resist the urge to buy online for now.
What kind of noise? I had 3 guys come at me downhill while I was climbing. (Not a DH park- rolling singletrack.) The last guy pulled his brakes as he got close to me - I heard a horrible "angry goose" sqealing noise. By his kit and focus, I assume he was a sponsored pro- was that the noise metallic pads make? My pads make a low grinding noise but not a honk/squeal like that was.
Taken me ages to find some N03C replacements. Didn’t actually realise that majority of Shimano 4pots where the same. Doh. Was hunting a like for like in my XTRs. Serves me right for moving away from Hope. Ha.
not the same ballgame at all :) i'd rather service shimanos over hopes any day of the week. hope 4 pots are bubble traps like no other, and DOT is a pain... they ARE fantastic to use, however, and nobody can claim otherwise.
@@comethiburs2326 I find it totally the other way. Got two bikes on Hope Tech3 E4, one on XTR and one on Deore, and I much prefer the Hope for everything except the outright power that the XTR have.
I ride an ebike and after 1000 miles my rear brake was squeaking a lot... I watched a video by Park Tool and they put up a comparison regarding multiple materials. I live in a really dry climate (Arizona, US) so I picked organic. Not gonna lie, I've never swapped pads before in a bike, but I'm curious to see what happens. From what the Park Tool video was saying, organic is the most silent, but apparently offers the least wear resistance.
Why doesn’t people talk about Kevlar and Ceramic pads? Are they not worth it? I plan to buy Kevlar pads for my Magura MT5 on my downhill bike. I live in Scotland where most of the time rainy, muddy conditions. Any recommendation?
Question could you buy two pairs of pads which have different characteristics and then combine the pads to have one of each on each break to maximise the advantages of each. would this cause uneaven wear or is it worth a try.
Most pro riders use a mix. They done a video on differences on pro bikes and that was one of them. They use different pads each side of the same brake though
Any comment about mixing pad types front/rear? Was thinking semi or even resin on the front for better control and modulation and then full metallic on the rear since they get used the most and probably get (and stay) hotter during a long downhill at the bike park.
You'd actually want that the other way around. Since the front does more of your stopping and takes more heat, you'd want the metallic up front and resin rear. Also, think: modulation for controlling speed when doing manuals/wheelies downhill....
@@JoeIsCrazyWillman By far my rear brakes get used more than the front, probably three to one or more. I ride an ebike up hill then do a half to one mile down hill single track, so I'm braking and sliding the rears quite a bit. They get far hotter than the front.
i once used resin pads because the lbs don't have a metallic pads at that time and I need it for big epic ride 2 days full of riding. got brake fade at the end of the ride I had to cool it with my drink. never use resin pads anymore since that, that was 7 years ago
soo many factors to consider: bed in properly? pads centered properly? your weight / weight of your bike temperature braking habits speed original pads? steepness of terrain & conditions bleeding quality 2 pods/4 pods etc. So you had a bad experience, but it does not say too much of the property of the pad itself ;)
Easy answer, if you want to have usable braking once your brakes are either hot or wet run sintered. Resin fade rapidly on any even moderate downhill, and they are useless when wet.
Other than letting more heat get to the calliper there’s absolutely no reason to not run sintered pads. I’m currently running trickstuff power pads which are definitely the best resin pads I’ve ever used. You can smell them when they get hot but they don’t seem to fade.
I've had resin pads that were seemingly immune to fade, even when I was deliberately trying to punish them. Well... they would fade just a hint upon first getting warm, but after that friction was steady. They had loads of performance, but off course they also wore out annoyingly quickly.
I just got a Juiced Rip Racer bikes. I have put on 100 miles on it in the past few days. My brakes are squealing really loud. I have Shimano B01S brake pads on them which are organic/resin. Should I have Semi Metallics or Sintered pads instead to last longer and to be quieter or should I get another set of organics and break them in better? What should I do? Thanks 🙏👍 Jeff - Sunny Central Florida
thanks for the info, thats really help me understand what its all about! However I have a dilemma, if resin is better for warmer climes but shorter runs - how does that work abroad (alps in particular) where it is definitely warmer but very much longer runs...? maybe one of each haha?
@@mrrdhh I don't know where you got that resin is better for warm climates but it's not what the video said. Ambient temperature doesn't matter as much as how hard and long you are braking. Mixing different compounds sounds like a terrible idea for every day use. Only some of the professional racers do it and only some of the time they ride because they prefer the very slight difference in how it feels. It's quite a hassle for that little reward. Remember, they usually have a dedicated mechanic and a sponsor supplying the parts so they can swap in whatever they want several times a day every day. The different wear rates and uneven rotor wear would be a concern for prolonged use.
@@frankthetankricard thanks for your input, my son seems happy with metal shimanos but he rides (dh) a lot of the time in a wet an cold uk . Btw he mentions it at about 5:30 at the end of his summary on resin pads ..
I’ve read in many places that if you have been using one type of pad e.g. metallic then you must stick with that type or change the rotor. Did you mention that ? … or is it a myth ?
Probably myth. Just clean your rotors with alcohol and then bed your new pads properly. Now some rotors, like the Shimano type that came on my Polygon bikes, say "resin pads only", so if you go to metallic or semi metallic, you need to change the rotor model entirely. So just be mindful to anything labeled on your rotors. If you don't see anything about specific pads, use any you like.
Every bike shop I visit always want to offer me Aztec replacement brake pads not Shimano original equipment replacement pads? I can't find out anything about Aztec. They don't appear to have a website. I can't even find the UK distributor to ask. Please help.
I have a question, i recently change my pads with j02a but it seems that it doesnt compatible with my rotors. Its just they only covered the 50% of rotor disc i dont know if its normal. My rotor is RT56. Do i need to change my rotors? Thank you
Limit screw should not have moved if the front derailleur used to work. Check the cable tension. If the cable has stretched you won't be pulling the derailleur far enough to change to the big gear.
Yes you need to remove the thin layer of compound you are running on the rotor take some Scotch-Brite with either alcohol or brake cleaner so you can bed in the new pads with that particular material
So to in the #GMBN guy. Rich What is to brake pads for to chould i get for mys disc and #Moutainbiking in the so #GMBNTech good to explained guy Saluds of chile 🇨🇱 🤘😀🚴🚵💯 thanks
@@martincantwell2557I think you're confusing bedding with preheating. Bedding is done when the brakes are brand new and is a short process and then you're good to go. Preheating is for more heat resistant, more race oriented pad types. Much like race car tires, you need to preheat them and that's when they come alive with grip/power, but when cold, they suffer for those things.
Question: What about responsible disposal of used brake pads? Are there any schemes like supermarkets do with used batteries? Most are metal so should we just save them up till its worth making a trip to local council waste disposal facility?
Cycling to local waste disposal is a good excuse to ride more. I'm sure car breakers treat car pads as steel waste and recycle them just as most of the car parts so I'm confident you can treat pads as steel waste. Unless you get fancy aluminum backing plate pads or integrated radiator, then off course you have $$$cash$$$ in your hands :-)
Oh yeah they definitely listen. I was thinking out loud last week and said.....” I need to order more D3 with K2. Within less than 1 hour I’m seeing Amazon ads for D3 with K2 and I never did a search just spoke out loud.
Hi please help me out, my levo men NB 29"MY 19 is in the workshop getting serviced etc but they don't have the brake pads I need and but I can come with parts the problem is that I don't remember which brake pads I need and can't check because they have my bike. It has level t lever but I remember last time having this problem the level t pads did not fit the caliper but I don't remember which did fit if it was code guide etc can someone please help me out? So I can order them online
You really covered as good dude I'm glad you did this I think that you could wear a baseball cap that would look good on you and you would look more American with a cool accent
why do they cost so much... for the size and the amount of material they should only cost a pittance.. I say this as when you like at vehicle/bike pads they are much bigger and frankly only cost about twice as much in some cases for something much bigger, stronger and thicker
Everything functions properly ruclips.net/user/postUgkxHL1v1R3NE5x4KiYfyt8dnQmyNYz7qi5L Nothing was damaged in the box aside from a decal on the fork. The decal was missing a piece of a corner but I ended up peeling them off anyways. Assembly is easy BUT make sure you tune up the derailleurs. Both the front and rear need adjusting. I'd advise going to a bike shop but I opted out and put in 10+ hours with the help of RUclips. Ended up fraying a shifter cable but all in all I learned from the experience. The Brakes work well but the front caliper needs adjusting or at least mine did because the rotor was rubbing against the pads. Make sure you swap out the seat, grips, and pedals. For the short run you'll be fine though. I've read that this bike isn't built yet for hard trails but I just need it for the city. PA has some of the worst roads and being in a mountain this was a great choice. Worth the investment!
I just set up my bike with disc brakes for the first time in my life and I get a lot of shuddering along with mediocre brake power compared to my trusty rim brakes. And yes, I bedded them in. I'm running alligator windcutters with TRP spyre mechanicals which came with semi metallic pads. I agonisingly tinkered with every aspect I could think of to get the breaking power up and to reduce the shuddering as much as possible. while I've made some improvements, I still have barely adequate braking power and unbearable shuddering. I had to retighten my headset as a result. I'm scratching my head on this one. Do I need to switch to resin pads? Are wind cutters not compatible with the TRP spyres? Is this just something I should expect with disc brakes in general?
@2:37 heat fins are meant to "draw in cool air"??? What an embarrassingly dumb thing to say. With such a gap in basic knowledge, should this guy be giving advice?
I don't go as hard for as long as to warrant metallic pads, and they (both sintered and semi metallic) wear rotors faster. I just get the cheapest possible organic pads in packs of 5/10 pairs (comes out to only a couple $ a pair) and swap them when needed. Think I'm on the 5th or 6th set on my current front rotor, and the rotor's like new still.. only reason I swap rotors really is if they're bent out of shape or I've run my pads down to the steel..
Metallic and semi-metallic brakes suck. Metallic disc pads suck horribly on cars. When cold, you basically have little stopping power. Asbestos pads are superior, but I don't think you can get them anymore.
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
If you have a grinding wheel any shape pad will work. Shimano does fit hope pads now lol
🤔 wait a minute you mean you some Ingenuity and thought and elbow grease? What are you crazy buddy? 😂 we can't have people thinking for themselves we have to be told what to buy what to do what to think what to feel what invisible Boogeyman to be scared of...🤣
I mean come on it's not like we were born individuals, with the DNA to hunt, gather, build and defend ourselves! What's wrong with you? Haven't you been listening to the fem Nazis and woke culture? I mean come on let's get with the program I mean deprogram-ing 😂😂😂
@@archetypex65 what the hell are you going on about?
@Kian Reign is your car warranty expired?
I fitted organic pads once. They lasted 4 rides in the british winter, i was stunned when i saw they was done. Never looked back from sintered again, more performance last 10 times longer no brainer for me.
I just purchased sintered pads to replace my shimano resin pads. Then I read in the manual afterwards only use resin pads, will it damage my brakes?
@@gethappycyclingcampingoutdoors what bike do you have
@@cantthinkofowt7794 Vitus Sentier VRS
@@gethappycyclingcampingoutdoors the problem are the rotors, calipers aren’t gonna cause anything. I always used semi metallic, i’m going to try resin/organic soon, but check first the rotors (usually only shimano rotors have resin pads only)
buy anything you can, in this market you probably don't have a lot of choices. Sintered are best for me when available.
Semi metallic is Exactly meant as 'do it all'!
Totally the best for mixed conditions and temp riding...
Glazing can also be the result of not enough hard use,to much covering of the brakes causing drag so you may need to once in awhile really pull up hard at a low speed to rid the disc of crud this also gives good indication how well your kit is ,was leavers firm weeping fluids etched.
Also if the pads aren’t worn in properly they will glaze, that’s why I can’t get along with Kevlar ones.?
This video is perfect, I've got 4pairs of spare, four pot brake pads and I ride mostly flat ground, so you know how long they'll last me 😅
I love that old GT you have behind you... I use to have one. I gave it to an old friend. I wonder if he still has it.
Thank you for that! I will keep my metallic pads on!
Always run sintered as organic are crap on my Code brakes and the avid sintered have always been great on my magura 220mm semi floating dics but now trying CL pads and these are proving very good as I used to use these years ago in motocross.
Semi metallic on my m7000s, have been toying with putting some sintered on the back soon though. Usually go with Uber bikes (with fins) but needed a pair promptly recently so my LBS hooked me up with their own ones 👍🏻
sir asking what best brake pads for m7000 you recommended
Intro calmed all my nerves as I was just searching for pads, thank you great vid!
Uberbike race matrix compound front and rear all year around best pads iv had for power feel and durability
I used to use that in some xt m785 but now I just use organic all year around in hopes ive had for a while
My new 3 series Shimano resin pads are awesome. Easy bed in and silent with enough power for me.
Resin in the front for modulation and sintered in the back for power down the hills, got convinced by a mate !
Great idea why didn’t I think of this
@@bmw540ise Didn't think of this either, a buddy convinced of this after i complained about overheating my resin pads in the Alps and it worked a charm ! As i like riding steep stuff, the back brake gives me the power to bang on if needed and i still can modulate my front brake in tight turns - so it's a win-win !
Weird.
I buy whatever is available. These days its a crap shoot
Thank you very much for making this video! I had made a suggestion for this a while back and I'm sure I'm not the only one that had questions. All questions answered now. Thanks!
Resin in Winter and on the rear brake year round, in summer Metal on the Front Brake for Power.
Not a bad idea!
Resin in winter ... are you serious? sintered is MUCH better in wet conditions.
@@mrvwbug4423 Well you don't really need all the power for the rear though
@@mrvwbug4423 maybe depends on your winter? For me, winter = Fat Bike, and definitely resin is good. It's rarely wet when it's that frozen. In contrast, Sintered 100% for cyclocross. I've worn resin pads in a weekend of muddy races.
Just changed from sintred to resin. Just loves the silence
Try ceramic pads very quiet with better bite than pure organic
until they got hot or wet and you have no braking
@@archetypex65 Ceramics ARE sintered pads!
I changed over my pads today, cznt wait to test them out ☺
Shimano resin pads lasts me aprox. 1000 Km/ pair. I never had fading power issues. I always alternate front/rear usage so that I can give them time to cool down. And I try to brake in short bursts rather a prolonged soft usage that builds up heat and smooth the pads.
That doesn't apply on all trails. Sometimes it's just gnarly and steep for 5+ minutes straight and if you're not a world cup downhill racer you might need to have both your brakes applied more than you can let off to cool them down.
@@frankthetankricard agreed. Allowing cooling is on my mind but I also value not going faster than my ability and crashing.
@@mallias2683 I just brake almost equally front and rear together, which puts less heat into them than using only one or the other, and also do as you said, and basically attack the brakes in a good traction area and then let go for (tire) grip and brake cooling. Never had overheating on my resin pads, however I haven't done a lot of downhill, and I'll be riding Monarch and Whole Enchilada in 2 months and 7000' of descent, I don't think my 2yr old resin pads are gonna appreciate that. Lol. So I'm looking at ceramic pads
You guys should do an off brand vs oem brake pads. The cheap ones are tempting at less than half the price but I'm sure they are terrible
I wish Ford or GM or Toyota made some.
Thank you for the information brother, it was very helpful 👍
I would like you to compare ceramics too
Ceramics are sintered pads, sintered pads are a metallic ceramic compound
I have Shimano SLX metal sintered on my full suspension and Shimano SLX resin on my hardtail.
Very informative, just what I need to know! Thank you man.
green (resin, organic, semi-metallic) for front, gold (metallic, sintered) for rear /thread
The other way around 👍🏼
@@serge805 well it makes sense having the harder wearing ones on the back as that’s the brake that gets used the most 👍
@@owenbrown2817
You’re braking wrong lol, the front brake gets used way heavier in mtb, over use of rear brake causes fish tailing. I’ve torn my rear brake line in the past and continued without a problem, sticky tires help a great deal but mtb is front brake biased for sure
@@serge805 Yeahh that’s very true. Definitely something I need to learn and utilise especially on speed sections. End of the day it’s personal preference but your point is 100% valid 👍
@@serge805 weird.. every time I use the front hard I go over the bars…
Oh wow, it IS more complicated than I thought, I suspect that my 3 year old factory pads are some kind of semimetallic Tektro, I reckon the local bike shop has what I need, I'll resist the urge to buy online for now.
7:30 doddy is having a heart attack
Literally what i thought when i saw
Metallic for DH and Enduro and Semi for anything else.
So what gives the best power for the least lever force from cold / ambient?
What kind of noise? I had 3 guys come at me downhill while I was climbing. (Not a DH park- rolling singletrack.) The last guy pulled his brakes as he got close to me - I heard a horrible "angry goose" sqealing noise. By his kit and focus, I assume he was a sponsored pro- was that the noise metallic pads make? My pads make a low grinding noise but not a honk/squeal like that was.
Please make such video regarding rim brakes also
CL Brakes brake pads, best by far.
E-bike : Galfer G1652 !
Taken me ages to find some N03C replacements. Didn’t actually realise that majority of Shimano 4pots where the same. Doh. Was hunting a like for like in my XTRs.
Serves me right for moving away from Hope. Ha.
not the same ballgame at all :) i'd rather service shimanos over hopes any day of the week. hope 4 pots are bubble traps like no other, and DOT is a pain... they ARE fantastic to use, however, and nobody can claim otherwise.
@@comethiburs2326 I find it totally the other way. Got two bikes on Hope Tech3 E4, one on XTR and one on Deore, and I much prefer the Hope for everything except the outright power that the XTR have.
I ride an ebike and after 1000 miles my rear brake was squeaking a lot... I watched a video by Park Tool and they put up a comparison regarding multiple materials. I live in a really dry climate (Arizona, US) so I picked organic. Not gonna lie, I've never swapped pads before in a bike, but I'm curious to see what happens. From what the Park Tool video was saying, organic is the most silent, but apparently offers the least wear resistance.
Why doesn’t people talk about Kevlar and Ceramic pads? Are they not worth it? I plan to buy Kevlar pads for my Magura MT5 on my downhill bike. I live in Scotland where most of the time rainy, muddy conditions. Any recommendation?
I'm curious about ceramic too.
@@strout2944 I found the answer here
ruclips.net/video/JLsz0arAumI/видео.html
Look at the numbers on the old break pads, buy new with the same numbers. Done.
BRAKE
*BRAKE*
What if you want cintered or organic
Question
could you buy two pairs of pads which have different characteristics and then combine the pads to have one of each on each break to maximise the advantages of each. would this cause uneaven wear or is it worth a try.
Hmmm
woah, you might be on to something here
did you ever give this a shot?
I like the idea. I would probably use organics in the front (I use back brakes mostly) and sintered on the back🤔
Most pro riders use a mix. They done a video on differences on pro bikes and that was one of them. They use different pads each side of the same brake though
Any comment about mixing pad types front/rear? Was thinking semi or even resin on the front for better control and modulation and then full metallic on the rear since they get used the most and probably get (and stay) hotter during a long downhill at the bike park.
You'd actually want that the other way around. Since the front does more of your stopping and takes more heat, you'd want the metallic up front and resin rear. Also, think: modulation for controlling speed when doing manuals/wheelies downhill....
@@JoeIsCrazyWillman By far my rear brakes get used more than the front, probably three to one or more. I ride an ebike up hill then do a half to one mile down hill single track, so I'm braking and sliding the rears quite a bit. They get far hotter than the front.
gmbn and gmbn tech releasing vids within 3 mins of each other
Appreciate you bud🙏
i once used resin pads because the lbs don't have a metallic pads at that time and I need it for big epic ride 2 days full of riding. got brake fade at the end of the ride I had to cool it with my drink. never use resin pads anymore since that, that was 7 years ago
soo many factors to consider:
bed in properly?
pads centered properly?
your weight / weight of your bike
temperature
braking habits
speed
original pads?
steepness of terrain & conditions
bleeding quality
2 pods/4 pods
etc.
So you had a bad experience, but it does not say too much of the property of the pad itself ;)
@@gogomtb1 i'm not saying resins are shit per-se... it's just not for me, just saying
@@TheKoosterify okay ✌🏽
what do you think of ceramic brake pads?
Uberbike semi metallic for all round all year use imo
Easy answer, if you want to have usable braking once your brakes are either hot or wet run sintered. Resin fade rapidly on any even moderate downhill, and they are useless when wet.
Resin pads work fine for me. Especially the newest Shimano series.
Other than letting more heat get to the calliper there’s absolutely no reason to not run sintered pads. I’m currently running trickstuff power pads which are definitely the best resin pads I’ve ever used. You can smell them when they get hot but they don’t seem to fade.
I've had resin pads that were seemingly immune to fade, even when I was deliberately trying to punish them. Well... they would fade just a hint upon first getting warm, but after that friction was steady. They had loads of performance, but off course they also wore out annoyingly quickly.
I just got a Juiced Rip Racer bikes. I have put on 100 miles on it in the past few days. My brakes are squealing really loud. I have Shimano B01S brake pads on them which are organic/resin. Should I have Semi Metallics or Sintered pads instead to last longer and to be quieter or should I get another set of organics and break them in better? What should I do? Thanks 🙏👍
Jeff - Sunny Central Florida
thanks for the info, thats really help me understand what its all about! However I have a dilemma, if resin is better for warmer climes but shorter runs - how does that work abroad (alps in particular) where it is definitely warmer but very much longer runs...? maybe one of each haha?
If you do any sort of downhill beyond very mild downhill run sintered. Or just run sintered period, there is no reason not to
I’d be running the organic ebike pads in that situation as the resin can deal with higher temperatures. Heard good reports of the uberbike ones
@@mrvwbug4423 have you ever tried a combination? i heard on some pros do that
@@mrrdhh I don't know where you got that resin is better for warm climates but it's not what the video said. Ambient temperature doesn't matter as much as how hard and long you are braking. Mixing different compounds sounds like a terrible idea for every day use. Only some of the professional racers do it and only some of the time they ride because they prefer the very slight difference in how it feels. It's quite a hassle for that little reward. Remember, they usually have a dedicated mechanic and a sponsor supplying the parts so they can swap in whatever they want several times a day every day. The different wear rates and uneven rotor wear would be a concern for prolonged use.
@@frankthetankricard thanks for your input, my son seems happy with metal shimanos but he rides (dh) a lot of the time in a wet an cold uk . Btw he mentions it at about 5:30 at the end of his summary on resin pads ..
Zaskar frame☺️
Thank you for the info good sir :)
i do a lot of wheelies and combos what type of pads would u recommend ?
Just bought an Ebike running shimano x3 brakes! I’m used to hope E4’s with racing green.! Any pads out there with similar quality?
I'm in the UK and use CL pads in my mountain bikes.They have incredible feel and stopping power.
My hope e4 need new pads what would u recommend
What about some of the new ceramic pads?
I’ve read in many places that if you have been using one type of pad e.g. metallic then you must stick with that type or change the rotor. Did you mention that ? … or is it a myth ?
Probably myth. Just clean your rotors with alcohol and then bed your new pads properly.
Now some rotors, like the Shimano type that came on my Polygon bikes, say "resin pads only", so if you go to metallic or semi metallic, you need to change the rotor model entirely. So just be mindful to anything labeled on your rotors. If you don't see anything about specific pads, use any you like.
Thanks! GT4LIFE!
There's a reason Magura recommends sintered for their brakes only. It's the only pad that really works.
And they don't "grind your rotors."
I think you mean organic only mate
Magura doesnt even make sintered pads. All their pads are resin, with up to 30% metal content.
You just say what temp they can handle !
That way you know the best compound
Trickstuff pads better?
Every bike shop I visit always want to offer me Aztec replacement brake pads not Shimano original equipment replacement pads? I can't find out anything about Aztec. They don't appear to have a website. I can't even find the UK distributor to ask. Please help.
Based on this video, it seems Resin or Semi-metalic are easier on your rotors?
Correct.
So metallic is kinda like carbon ceramics for cars, so its the best
What thickness brake pads does voodoo bizango have?
Ceramic brakes?
This video is perfect I need new pads
Sadly my local bike shops couldn’t help me find a particular pad type.
I have a question, i recently change my pads with j02a but it seems that it doesnt compatible with my rotors. Its just they only covered the 50% of rotor disc i dont know if its normal. My rotor is RT56. Do i need to change my rotors? Thank you
My front Derailer doesn’t shift to the highest gear do y’all have a video about that and thx y’all really helpful keep it up be safe🖤
Adjust your limit screw a couple of turns
Limit screw should not have moved if the front derailleur used to work. Check the cable tension. If the cable has stretched you won't be pulling the derailleur far enough to change to the big gear.
@@SuperNeilB I agree, if it worked before but doesn't now, the cable stretched. Limit screws really don't move on their own
what size is it 18'' ?
The sound of the metallic pads is perhaps something I could get used to, but I don't want to. Resin pads for me thanks. Anyone else feel the same way?
Do you need to clean rotors when changing pad compound??
Yes you need to remove the thin layer of compound you are running on the rotor take some Scotch-Brite with either alcohol or brake cleaner so you can bed in the new pads with that particular material
So to in the #GMBN guy. Rich What is to brake pads for to chould i get for mys disc and #Moutainbiking in the so #GMBNTech good to explained guy Saluds of chile 🇨🇱 🤘😀🚴🚵💯 thanks
Why is nobody, never talk about ceramic pads?
That's what I use and I find them to be the best compound I've tried..tons of power and quite
Ceramics ARE sintered pads!
@@martincantwell2557 do u still have to bed the ceramic pads in bud?
@@mikeep4283 I find they bed in very quick. Unlike some pads that don't come to life until after a few runs.
@@martincantwell2557I think you're confusing bedding with preheating. Bedding is done when the brakes are brand new and is a short process and then you're good to go.
Preheating is for more heat resistant, more race oriented pad types. Much like race car tires, you need to preheat them and that's when they come alive with grip/power, but when cold, they suffer for those things.
Question: What about responsible disposal of used brake pads? Are there any schemes like supermarkets do with used batteries? Most are metal so should we just save them up till its worth making a trip to local council waste disposal facility?
Cycling to local waste disposal is a good excuse to ride more. I'm sure car breakers treat car pads as steel waste and recycle them just as most of the car parts so I'm confident you can treat pads as steel waste. Unless you get fancy aluminum backing plate pads or integrated radiator, then off course you have $$$cash$$$ in your hands :-)
Almost certain at this point they are listening to my thoughts
same here ^^ We had a talk about different pad properties like 14hrs ago :)
Me too
Oh yeah they definitely listen. I was thinking out loud last week and said.....” I need to order more D3 with K2. Within less than 1 hour I’m seeing Amazon ads for D3 with K2 and I never did a search just spoke out loud.
Can someone PLEASE help I’ve been trying to find a brake disc I can use my sintered pads on but all I can find is mesh only discs I have a cube analog
Hi please help me out, my levo men NB 29"MY 19 is in the workshop getting serviced etc but they don't have the brake pads I need and but I can come with parts the problem is that I don't remember which brake pads I need and can't check because they have my bike. It has level t lever but I remember last time having this problem the level t pads did not fit the caliper but I don't remember which did fit if it was code guide etc can someone please help me out? So I can order them online
Homegrown is best
The best brake pads for me are which ever ones are on sale. LOL
You really covered as good dude I'm glad you did this I think that you could wear a baseball cap that would look good on you and you would look more American with a cool accent
When the fellow says "1.5mil" does he mean "1.5mm?" Big difference. (1mil = 0.0254mm)
why do they cost so much... for the size and the amount of material they should only cost a pittance.. I say this as when you like at vehicle/bike pads they are much bigger and frankly only cost about twice as much in some cases for something much bigger, stronger and thicker
Trickstuff it is
Uber bike race matrix all year round
Yea totally the other uber compounds are not as good the race matrix ones last longer and have great breaking power
Everything functions properly ruclips.net/user/postUgkxHL1v1R3NE5x4KiYfyt8dnQmyNYz7qi5L Nothing was damaged in the box aside from a decal on the fork. The decal was missing a piece of a corner but I ended up peeling them off anyways. Assembly is easy BUT make sure you tune up the derailleurs. Both the front and rear need adjusting. I'd advise going to a bike shop but I opted out and put in 10+ hours with the help of RUclips. Ended up fraying a shifter cable but all in all I learned from the experience. The Brakes work well but the front caliper needs adjusting or at least mine did because the rotor was rubbing against the pads. Make sure you swap out the seat, grips, and pedals. For the short run you'll be fine though. I've read that this bike isn't built yet for hard trails but I just need it for the city. PA has some of the worst roads and being in a mountain this was a great choice. Worth the investment!
What difference between flat Mont and 2 piston caliper ( The piston are same on both caliper )
I just set up my bike with disc brakes for the first time in my life and I get a lot of shuddering along with mediocre brake power compared to my trusty rim brakes. And yes, I bedded them in.
I'm running alligator windcutters with TRP spyre mechanicals which came with semi metallic pads.
I agonisingly tinkered with every aspect I could think of to get the breaking power up and to reduce the shuddering as much as possible. while I've made some improvements, I still have barely adequate braking power and unbearable shuddering. I had to retighten my headset as a result.
I'm scratching my head on this one. Do I need to switch to resin pads? Are wind cutters not compatible with the TRP spyres? Is this just something I should expect with disc brakes in general?
Ahh smells like a hidden product placement to me..
Nor sure if this video explained the topic all too well :(
No mention of bedding in brakes.
@@dystopiaisutopia The video is not about how to bed in brake pads. it is about CHOOSING brake pads:)
For what brand? Didnt see any
@@rupedog 7:04 Trickstuff
@@andreybatashov2183 and Shimano. and SRAM. I'd say none of these product placement "clients" got their money's worth.
Rich with hair =o
@2:37 heat fins are meant to "draw in cool air"??? What an embarrassingly dumb thing to say. With such a gap in basic knowledge, should this guy be giving advice?
@@user-cx2bk6pm2f clearly he misunderstands the principle of the fins. Lol.
@@KONAMAN100well what are they meant to do then?
Why it's the camera shaking so much?
Maybe they had a cameraman/woman instead of a tripod
@@makncheese6836 They'd still be using a tripod.
I don't go as hard for as long as to warrant metallic pads, and they (both sintered and semi metallic) wear rotors faster. I just get the cheapest possible organic pads in packs of 5/10 pairs (comes out to only a couple $ a pair) and swap them when needed. Think I'm on the 5th or 6th set on my current front rotor, and the rotor's like new still.. only reason I swap rotors really is if they're bent out of shape or I've run my pads down to the steel..
Metallic pads are really not a good choice for most riding. Sintered, Kevlar/ Ceramic or semi-metallic are better choices
This doesn't show v brakes!
Metallic and semi-metallic brakes suck. Metallic disc pads suck horribly on cars. When cold, you basically have little stopping power. Asbestos pads are superior, but I don't think you can get them anymore.
Wow, and we slate rob Warner for his hair line...😂
I just buy the cheapest ones
Stock tektros lol
ok so which one do you recommend ? lol
My guess is 0.01 percent of cyclists have boiled break fluid.