In Gavin's videos the most important thing for me is that he makes all the errors at the beginning and step by step he explains what to do to get the final effect he wants. Gavin, you rock!!!
Oh wow, so many people don't have the space in what they call STUDIO so this is a fantastic video where it show us how to go about it the best way possible within the constrains of space. Thank you Gavin Hoey for showing us the solution to situations and for loving Photography and share so much through this channel!
Two critical components, it seems. Multiple flashes and an experienced model. I really appreciate how Charlotte poses, seemingly with little direction from Gavin.
Another easy way if you have a large soft box and/or are doing close up portraits, is to just use the soft box of the backlight as the white background. Essentially it will do the same as this. Initially I set up a background in my home studio using a massive painter sheet I found at the dollar store. It was white and diffused the light fairly nicely. I stuck my 48 in octagon soft box behind it, stretched it right across my backdrop frame and had a cheap and simple pure white background. I also found some white sheer curtains to add in front so I could shoot soft window style portraits using this setup.
Even though I don't do this kind of shooting very much, I always enjoy watching Gavin and hearing him explain step by step what he is doing. It takes out all the mystery about lighting that most people have about the subject. Big thumbs up to Gavin.
Knowing why lighting doesn't work is the building blocks of making a repeatable, successful lighting set-ups. In other words... the more you fail, the better you become 😉
I love your videos. You always do simple step by step tutorials. I had a feeling it was gonna be 2 lights on the side when you first started. The flag was the only thing I didn't consider so thank you again
Best advice I've ever found for creating a "255" background without going too bright. Specifically, metering the background from the subject's back to match the chosen f/stop for the main subject. I believe you've mentioned this technique in previous videos also. I also utilize a Sekonic meter in the studio. Also, I believe I've heard Mark Wallace and Daniel Norton give you credit for this technique in their own videos.
brilliant yes great stuff - i do exactly this - much to models annoyance! after using other backgrounds for shots such as black or coloured I go back and forth with the lights power and positioning plus modifiers as i strive for that clean white background!
Hi John. Nailing a clean white background without loosing contrast on your subject is hard enough, but in a small space telling you model they can't step back adds another level to the challenge.
Hi Naveen. For this sort of shot two flashes is the minimum. There are ways of getting a white background with a single flash and lighting your model with bounced light but the results are very odd indeed
I'm going through all your videos and creating assignments for me to practice with Emma, my new mannequin model (your video on using mannequins clinched the decision to buy her, plus two wigs). These videos are so amazing!
Inspite of pandemic you are taking so much effort in creating the great videos.. Lots and lots of thanks and good wishes to you from Chowdry Photography, Bangalore, India.. Stay Safe. God Bless.
Thanx Gavin, good structured stepwise logic towards the shoot goal. One question though:- Please explain how to get a pure white background for a full length shot in the small home studio? Regards. Buks
If they're wearing white, the back of them should be a stop under where you're shooting at. Ie shooting f8 the background reading on back of subject should be f5.6
@@GavinHoey Ah, well, it was good to hear it, nevertheless! I *do* tend to forget that RUclips videos sometimes take time to edit and post. Glad to hear that you and yours are staying safe and healthy! Can't wait for the "true" return!
I've learnt a lot from watching your videos, even though I don't currently own any flash (excluding my cameras built in flash) my main problems with portraits at the moment (using myself as a model) are the fact that I'm a larger model with extremely pale skin (I'm paler than every ginger person I've met) but I am improving, if slowly (still life and photoshop skills are improving quicker though)
oh you sound like a solid black background would be beautiful with your skin and hair. Im not a pro but I always see people talking about CTO filter to warm skin tone. although I dont know how effective that would be with on camera flash. maybe a cheap gold reflector if you want a warm glow? like have directional sun behind u and use the reflected light from the gold as your main light source? also for photoshop I found a great channel. I dont know if I have my video saves public but its PIX something in the name. he is SO detailed and explains it well for beginners
Really a very interesting and Efficient vdo tutorial...indeed Dear Sir!! I hv a question in this regard!! When u do use your Light Meter plz do disclose the Flash Intensity Number, whether its 1/1 or what?? e.g. light meter show required f/5.6, i have come to know that but before using light Meter how much Intensity u kept of those 2 flashes for backdrop illumination i did not come to know!!
Strike or fair ball if its basket ball whats the call ? well where would i use this style ? its not boudior or lovegrove ! but its sportie and i love this style galvin always comes thru for me : So he knocked it out ofthe park thumbs up
incredible videos as always, but I have a question the high light alert does not tell me that the photo lost information and im burn the photo, my hight lights are lost?
Hi Marty. Good question. For Olympus cameras the native ISO is 200. In theory that's the best quality although in reality ISO100 and ISO400 are more or less the same. The bonus for me is, shooting at ISO200 means I use the flashes at half the power needed for 100ISO. So I get faster recycle time, shorter flash duration and as I'm making my battery last twice as long, I'm sort of saving the planet one shot at a time 👍
Another great video from a master. Thank you! I do have a question. Would I get the same result if I put reflector bowls on both the lights that are hitting the background or should I just bare bulb them and use flags?
I vote "try it". But my guess is that you may not have enough room for the light to spread up and down and to the sides. And if you don't want a Flashbender, get some white foam board at the store and flag it that way.
Hi Patty. As is so often the case, the answer is... it depends. A reflector controls the spread of the light, stopping it hitting your subject, bouncing off coloured walls and maximising the flash power. But you need more distance between the flash and background to give the flash room to spread and evenly cover at least half the background. If I was photographing something small like one of Daniel's little friends, a reflector would be perfect but for people sized shots, I don't have the space for reflectors to work.
@@GavinHoey I don't have the space either so I'll try bare bulb with some cardboard or something I can flag with. Thank you very much and I have enjoyed your live sessions!
Between 09-12 & about 09-32, the fun of this "high-techo" shoot becomes visible, Just so many hidden lessons. Such really useful insight :) Gavin, "You're just too useful too often" But already subscribed here, and I did remember to hit that little bell to get emails of new vids... Thanks, Mate :) //// To others, see other really useful/helpful/comments below, goodonya'-all & "B'-Subscribe" John=Australia ;)
Thank you Gavin! Did you eventually end up with the small octagon that appeared at the beginning and the end for the key light? I just did not catch that, the beam of light is rather narrow.
Now, I know it's a small studio. I think you've said approx 30 feet in length before. But, would it work to move the background forward and throw a light behind it? Because it looks like it may be able to be used as a scrim? I could be completely wrong. But if you had something like that, would that work? Thereby eliminating the need for one light? And it should be able to silhouette her if it's pointed at the camera, right? Or would you get a bright circle and inverse square coming into play and giving you a gradient or vignette falling off from the center? Maybe I should just try it myself haha.
Hi Brad. Yes that's perfectly possible but not in the space I have. Dig around on Adorama TV and you'll see me do that on a small scale with my water splash work. Alternatively the Lastolite Hilight does exactly what you suggest but in a much smaller space www.adorama.com/lshb67.html
It's essential to split the background lights and subject light into separate groups. You could also put the two background lights into two groups if they different light types or not evenly spaced.
Hey Gavin, or anyone that is able to reply. I just wanted to confirm, are you exposing the background light so that the histogram is clipped to pure white?
The one in the link isn't the same as mine, it's much better! Mine is old, strained and doesn't have a train... Actually why didn't I just buy that one!
In Gavin's videos the most important thing for me is that he makes all the errors at the beginning and step by step he explains what to do to get the final effect he wants.
Gavin, you rock!!!
Gavin, I love you. You are the best presenter on YT.
Oh wow, so many people don't have the space in what they call STUDIO so this is a fantastic video where it show us how to go about it the best way possible within the constrains of space. Thank you Gavin Hoey for showing us the solution to situations and for loving Photography and share so much through this channel!
Gavin's the most underrated photography guru ever... Learnt a lot of things from his videos... Huge thanks man...
Two critical components, it seems. Multiple flashes and an experienced model. I really appreciate how Charlotte poses, seemingly with little direction from Gavin.
Even as a professional, I love the videos with Gavin. They are relaxing to watch!
Thanks Kenneth 👍
Another easy way if you have a large soft box and/or are doing close up portraits, is to just use the soft box of the backlight as the white background. Essentially it will do the same as this.
Initially I set up a background in my home studio using a massive painter sheet I found at the dollar store. It was white and diffused the light fairly nicely. I stuck my 48 in octagon soft box behind it, stretched it right across my backdrop frame and had a cheap and simple pure white background. I also found some white sheer curtains to add in front so I could shoot soft window style portraits using this setup.
Even though I don't do this kind of shooting very much, I always enjoy watching Gavin and hearing him explain step by step what he is doing. It takes out all the mystery about lighting that most people have about the subject. Big thumbs up to Gavin.
Just wanted to give a shoutout to the guy making these videos. Really helpful
Thank you fashion models. You take us away from our problems and leed us into fantasy
That's great explained. First to determine what goes wrong to achieve what is required.
Knowing why lighting doesn't work is the building blocks of making a repeatable, successful lighting set-ups. In other words... the more you fail, the better you become 😉
I love your videos. You always do simple step by step tutorials. I had a feeling it was gonna be 2 lights on the side when you first started. The flag was the only thing I didn't consider so thank you again
You are so nice, I like your videos, and models are not distracting and humble. thx subscribed
Love this, very educative for even newbies like us
Gav' has done it again. Thanks mate.
Great tips Gavin, as always. Thank you!
9:22 Gorgeous shot, light, shadows/gradient, black and color in the middle. I love it!
Thanks Tom. The Magnum reflector worked wonder here for sure 👍
@@GavinHoey I have to buy one, Daniel Norton recommended it too and it seems to be different do beauty dish.
@@tommino8970 Very different to a beauty dish. It's a tool I use infrequently but when it works it rocks!
OK... here's a comment BLOW. Love your instructional videos. Just amazing what you do in your Small Home Studio... really. Muy bien Gavin
Best advice I've ever found for creating a "255" background without going too bright. Specifically, metering the background from the subject's back to match the chosen f/stop for the main subject. I believe you've mentioned this technique in previous videos also. I also utilize a Sekonic meter in the studio. Also, I believe I've heard Mark Wallace and Daniel Norton give you credit for this technique in their own videos.
"Metering the background from the back of the neck of the subject" Nup I must have missed it, great technique = fantastic :)
brilliant yes great stuff - i do exactly this - much to models annoyance! after using other backgrounds for shots such as black or coloured I go back and forth with the lights power and positioning plus modifiers as i strive for that clean white background!
Hi John. Nailing a clean white background without loosing contrast on your subject is hard enough, but in a small space telling you model they can't step back adds another level to the challenge.
learning so much from you. A guru in true sense 🙏 Thank you
Gavin Hoey is my Favorite
Great video thank you! Also let's talk about how Charlotte was giving the whole time🥰 h2t
I have a single light and was wondering why isn't my white background turning pure white... this explains it. Thanks a lot, Gavin.
Hi Naveen. For this sort of shot two flashes is the minimum. There are ways of getting a white background with a single flash and lighting your model with bounced light but the results are very odd indeed
Beautfiul work again Gavin 😊👍
Great video, Thanks Gavin and Charlotte!
very very informative. my studio is as small as this
Awesome as always 🏆
Yesss Charlotte!!!🥰 Amazing Tutorial
Excellent tutorial ..... thank you Gavin sir
Excellent tutorial & well explained. Gavin always has great videos & seems to have fun while making them. Hats off to you, sir!
Thanks Richard. The day I stop having fun making Adorama TV videos is the day I stop making them 😉
Thank you, Gavin! Very handy tips as always, and your results are excellent.
Thanks Mike 👍
Great lesson Gavin ........Thanks ......
Hi Gavin. As always, a great video!! Congrats!
Thanks AGAIN !!! Always good stuff.
Fun video to watch as always. Keep up the good work.
Some great advice!!! Thanks!
Excellent shoot Mr.Gavin.
Gavin you always are fantastic! :)
I'm going through all your videos and creating assignments for me to practice with Emma, my new mannequin model (your video on using mannequins clinched the decision to buy her, plus two wigs). These videos are so amazing!
Inspite of pandemic you are taking so much effort in creating the great videos.. Lots and lots of thanks and good wishes to you from Chowdry Photography, Bangalore, India.. Stay Safe. God Bless.
Always the best!
Awesome perfection!
Superb .. as always.
As always, you are The Best!
Great one! Thanks Gavin!
Love the video!
very good... thanks for this video.
Again a superb video! Thank you so much
Thanx Gavin, good structured stepwise logic towards the shoot goal.
One question though:- Please explain how to get a pure white background for a full length shot in the small home studio?
Regards.
Buks
I like flashbender idea, use reflector myself. But I may try the flash bender
Great video. Loved the Subscribe banner placement - top marks !
Thanks Alan. Charlotte thought I was mad.. you have to have vision 😉
The silhouette looks so nice, coupled with her pose
Thanks Kevin 👍
Fantastic
Nice one Gavin.
It’s great 👍
Thanks Gavin. That was really engaging.
Always producing entertaining and educational content, keep up the great work 👍
Hi Gavin,
Can you please make one video on Food Photography and with One basic Light setup. (DIY lighting preferred with speedlite) thank you
amazing
If they're wearing white, the back of them should be a stop under where you're shooting at. Ie shooting f8 the background reading on back of subject should be f5.6
YAY! The slogan is back!!!!!
Pre-Lockdown shoot Martin but... plans are being worked on for new location portrait shoots next month 😊
@@GavinHoey Outside would work well. You'll get great pictures and you and model will stay safe. Looking forward to those videos!
@@GavinHoey Ah, well, it was good to hear it, nevertheless! I *do* tend to forget that RUclips videos sometimes take time to edit and post. Glad to hear that you and yours are staying safe and healthy!
Can't wait for the "true" return!
ERES MUY BUEN INSTRUCTOR, ME GUSTAN TODOS LOS VIDEOS QUE HACES PARA INSTRUIRNOS
I've learnt a lot from watching your videos, even though I don't currently own any flash (excluding my cameras built in flash) my main problems with portraits at the moment (using myself as a model) are the fact that I'm a larger model with extremely pale skin (I'm paler than every ginger person I've met) but I am improving, if slowly (still life and photoshop skills are improving quicker though)
oh you sound like a solid black background would be beautiful with your skin and hair. Im not a pro but I always see people talking about CTO filter to warm skin tone. although I dont know how effective that would be with on camera flash. maybe a cheap gold reflector if you want a warm glow? like have directional sun behind u and use the reflected light from the gold as your main light source? also for photoshop I found a great channel. I dont know if I have my video saves public but its PIX something in the name. he is SO detailed and explains it well for beginners
I love your videos. I find them perfectly practical. Why did you dim the ambient lights on the last part of the video?
Your tutorial veri nice
Brilliant! Thank you 👌
Muchas gracias.
i like your job
Saludos desde CdMx
This video taught me so much. But I am wondering how you got the front to meter the same as behind. Was there a main light on this whole time?
Thank You 🙏🏾
Cool video
Really a very interesting and Efficient vdo tutorial...indeed Dear Sir!!
I hv a question in this regard!!
When u do use your Light Meter plz do disclose the Flash Intensity Number, whether its 1/1 or what??
e.g. light meter show required f/5.6, i have come to know that but before using light Meter how much Intensity u kept of those 2 flashes for backdrop illumination i did not come to know!!
Another great video. Would you ever use LED lights for the background with barn doors to control light spillage? Thanks
Hi Mr Gavin, can you give me some tips, how to remove folding reflector wrinkle?
Strike or fair ball if its basket ball whats the call ? well where would i use this style ? its not boudior or lovegrove ! but its sportie and i love this style galvin always comes thru for me : So he knocked it out ofthe park thumbs up
Thanks!
Informative, as always. Fun to see where the subscribe button will show up next!
Well done for making it to the end Ron 😁
incredible videos as always, but I have a question the high light alert does not tell me that the photo lost information and im burn the photo, my hight lights are lost?
Thanks Gavin, very good tutorial. Question: Why are you most of the time shoot portraits in ISO 200 and not lower? Any specific reason for this?
Hi Marty. Good question. For Olympus cameras the native ISO is 200. In theory that's the best quality although in reality ISO100 and ISO400 are more or less the same. The bonus for me is, shooting at ISO200 means I use the flashes at half the power needed for 100ISO. So I get faster recycle time, shorter flash duration and as I'm making my battery last twice as long, I'm sort of saving the planet one shot at a time 👍
What if I don’t have a fabric background?
wow
Great tutorial as normal :-)
Thanks
great video, came here straight from the food lighting one, felt odd without Sam... Great work
Thanks Alix. Sam was there, even if you couldn't hear her 😉
I like to use a clothes steamer to get rid of wrinkles on my cloth popup background.
Another great video from a master. Thank you! I do have a question. Would I get the same result if I put reflector bowls on both the lights that are hitting the background or should I just bare bulb them and use flags?
I vote "try it". But my guess is that you may not have enough room for the light to spread up and down and to the sides. And if you don't want a Flashbender, get some white foam board at the store and flag it that way.
Hi Patty. As is so often the case, the answer is... it depends. A reflector controls the spread of the light, stopping it hitting your subject, bouncing off coloured walls and maximising the flash power. But you need more distance between the flash and background to give the flash room to spread and evenly cover at least half the background.
If I was photographing something small like one of Daniel's little friends, a reflector would be perfect but for people sized shots, I don't have the space for reflectors to work.
@@GavinHoey I don't have the space either so I'll try bare bulb with some cardboard or something I can flag with. Thank you very much and I have enjoyed your live sessions!
Hey Gavin any idea how to achieve white backgrounds with only 1 light.
Between 09-12 & about 09-32, the fun of this "high-techo" shoot becomes visible, Just so many hidden lessons. Such really useful insight :) Gavin, "You're just too useful too often" But already subscribed here, and I did remember to hit that little bell to get emails of new vids... Thanks, Mate :) //// To others, see other really useful/helpful/comments below, goodonya'-all & "B'-Subscribe" John=Australia
;)
Thank you Gavin! Did you eventually end up with the small octagon that appeared at the beginning and the end for the key light? I just did not catch that, the beam of light is rather narrow.
I did eventually use the Octabox. You had to go all the way to at least 7:26 when you'll spot it in the top right corner 👍
@@GavinHoey Thanks a lot! ;)
😍😍😍😍
Now, I know it's a small studio. I think you've said approx 30 feet in length before. But, would it work to move the background forward and throw a light behind it? Because it looks like it may be able to be used as a scrim? I could be completely wrong.
But if you had something like that, would that work? Thereby eliminating the need for one light? And it should be able to silhouette her if it's pointed at the camera, right? Or would you get a bright circle and inverse square coming into play and giving you a gradient or vignette falling off from the center? Maybe I should just try it myself haha.
Hi Brad. Yes that's perfectly possible but not in the space I have. Dig around on Adorama TV and you'll see me do that on a small scale with my water splash work.
Alternatively the Lastolite Hilight does exactly what you suggest but in a much smaller space www.adorama.com/lshb67.html
Thanks for the informative video. Did you put the background lights in a different group and the subject lights?
It's essential to split the background lights and subject light into separate groups. You could also put the two background lights into two groups if they different light types or not evenly spaced.
Hey Gavin, or anyone that is able to reply. I just wanted to confirm, are you exposing the background light so that the histogram is clipped to pure white?
Are you able to use one light to light up the background?
What is the name for the background lights?
what is the backdrop size?
Is this the same background shown in the Adorama link? If it's the same, does that mean the sweep on the one in the link is detachable?
The one in the link isn't the same as mine, it's much better! Mine is old, strained and doesn't have a train... Actually why didn't I just buy that one!
Why not use a background with an included light source like Manfrotto HiLite? The setup seems to be much simpler.