Testing to a motor's limits is very helpful to the ebike community, thanks! “One test result is the worth one-thousand expert opinions.” ― Werner Von Braun
It's hard to keep up with you as saw you with the Flipsky contoller & phone holder. Then saw another channel rating controllers. Then you again with a phase runner from Grin Tech & BBSHD mid motor. Now you're back with the flipsky phone holder which must be your trademark symbol now. 😂 Found the Flipsky 75100 from Flipsky direct for less than Amazon with a help line I will probably need. A Heybike Mars 2.0 controller has power in but none out so I think it's shot & Heybike can't or won't say. Theirs with shipping & tax is more than a Flipsky so Ima taking the plunge into the unknown like Capt Kirk. Seems to be a far superior controller if I can figure out how to use it.
Flip sky works great, I was kinda messing around and damaged the nylon gear with too many phase amps, 60 to 75 is more conservative. But I had been running 96 for years, so idk 🤷. I am working on some proper settings for the g62 hub with flip sky where it won’t break anything 😂stay tuned! It’s not too bad to figure out, lmk if you have any questions! Your controller might be shot I agree, if the battery has voltage and your controller has voltage in, then something must be messed up inside. Thankfully controllers like the flip sky are affordable and becoming more widely available !
@@EBikeBuilder_ Flipsky is said to have slightly worse PCB current path topology than a stock BBSHD controller according to De-Bodgery channel. Not sure about v2 version yet.
Hard to tell from your inset photos what happened with the broken teeth. (I blame Minnesota by the way). Did you find the broken teeth in the grease when you opened it up? I would have thought nylon teeth deform or wear down sort of evenly, but surprising to see them fail at a specific point like that.
I havnt had any trouble with my UPP triangle battery to be honest. It doesnt like regen though gets a bit warm and one of my phase wires gets hot too. Only 30amp bms in my one and it still gets me over 40mph though. Charges to the exact same voltage every time and gets me about 25-45 miles range depending on my riding style. Cant wait for the vesc to be delivered
ya dude careful with Regen on a UPP triangle... they use battery cells that can't handle the full amps of regen. They can discharge 30 amps to move your bike, But you cant charge those batteries at 30 amps. U can set it over the edge with that heat. and it will pop off like a pack of firecrackers. They dont have working temperature sensors in the UPP batteries
@@EBikeBuilder_ yeah exactly that. Tbh I didn't like the feel of the regen anyway.. hitting a corner at 40mph and just slightly tapping the brake to lose some speed and then regen kicks in like a parachute and you end up losing too much speed. This is one of many reasons I'd like to run the vesc. The regen can be capped at 3-4amps and the braking force will be gentle 🤞🏻 I can usually feel when it starts to get a bit warm and I keep a check on the wires and plugs too. To be fair I don't actually know if I bought a 30a BMS pack or not. I'm just assuming as thats what it happily puts out without heat issues. My current controller reckons it's rated for 50a max and 25a continuous which if true at 54v fully charged and 40a would be just over 2kw if I'm correct. It says it hits 2kw on the LCD. But I've always been skeptical as it is only a cheap 48v pack with a cheap kit on the bike. 1000 miles ridden so far 🤷🏻♂️ Enjoying your videos feel free to check a few of mine some time 👌🏻👌🏻
I've seen steel faced nylon gears used to beef them up. It might have been E-Cells doing that but not sure where I saw it. Will the Flipsky 75100 Pro work without a desktop refered to & just with a smart phone as that's all I have right now?
You can do it just with your phone yeah, there are a few features like the Realtime Data Logs that you can only process on the desktop app. But TBH i havent evenused the desktop app yet. As for the gears, I guess the nylon gears can handle 75 phase amps / motor current max without issue. However I had mine on 96 phase amps for like 3 years before this happened. So who knows if the nylon gear was wearing out, or if the 105 phase amps is what did it. But yeah I'd run like 60 to 75 phase amps and 2000W max if you dont want to break anything. HOWEVER i ran mine at 96 phase amps and 3500W for like 3 years. SO ifyou have spare nylon gears or dont mind fixing things you can run them a bit harder. Ive also seen those hybrid steel - nylon gears, i guess those can allow you to run higher phase amps, but then other things in the motor start to break instead, Like the parallel / clutch key. I'm still trying to get the clutch assembly off the axle of my other G62 its stuck on after this mishap Lol
oh, thousands of miles, probably 5k to 10k or more, i rode that motor for years under normal circumstances and the nyloon gears never showed any signs of wear. and Yes you can turn the phase amps down, 65 is a very safe amount, 75 probably safe, going 80 to 90 is possible if you ride it respectfully i did it for a year or longer without any issues. But when i did above 90 phase amps the nylon gears started breaking. i changed it from 90 to 105 fairly quick in that video so im not sure the exact amount. BUt i would say 80+ is danger zone for a bafang g62 1000w
@@derivas007i have a video thats processing right now and will come out within an hour or so , where i wire a flipsky 75100 pro v2 to a bafang hub again, i go through all the wiring, its basically the 3 phase wires and then 6 motor signal wires that go through the motor cable to the motor. And the throttle goes to 5v, gnd, adc1, its fairly straightforward but kind of intimidating at first. Check for my latest Flipsky wiring video coming very soon today within an hour or so
@@derivas007 to answer your question flipsky has a wiring diagram that’s available on the website and comes with the controller. But yeah some wires go to the motor , and a few to the throttle
So what are the differences between this battery pack and the derelict-my-balls pack? Is there something significantly better on paper between the cell packs etc or just like a nicer brand? The performance difference is pretty impressive
Upp triangle battery is crappy cells that can only discharge 7 amps, that battery is 4parallel, so it can only do 7*4 = 28amps nominal. And the voltage sags a ton under load. So if I’m doing 2000w with that battery the voltage will drop like 10V. But on my samsung battery its 40T3 cells that can do 35amps discharge each. And in 5p so this Samsung battery can do 175 amps max discharge. They are better cells, more parallel groups, and it goes faster because the higher voltage directly increases motor rpm. The motor is 8rpm /v - so a 10v sag would be 80rpm less. My battery is also made with nickel and not nickel plated steel
Just from a simple physics point of view, a geared motor (the actual motor) is tiny compared to a direct drive motor. You then have a 1" gear driving 3 2" gears, meaning that tiny motor has to spin twice as fast as a direct drive motor. My AWD bikes are quit and only use 45amps max rear and 20amps max front. Im sorry to say, I think my bikes are much torquier and run 42mph on 60v all day long... Don't shoot the messenger. I appreciate your work 👍
20a + 45a = 65a 65a * 60v = 3900watts That's enough for steep Pennsylvania hills. With 30ah battery, it seems to be the best setup I can come up with. Perfect all around ebikes that never leaves you wanting for anything. Just my opinion...
2 of my bikes have 60a controllers rear which bring 4800watts total, but all my rear wheels are 1500 to 2000w so I don't think they can use more than 3000watts.
One hundred percentages Correct Bro Battery makes a Huge Difference, If your got a good Quality one, Heaps better than them cheap hunks of Junk😮 Prolly one of the most Important yet over looked part of a E bike 🚳
I think it must be the Croc's you are wearing not being able to ground themselves to the rest of the world like humans and then it must think you are an ALIEN ! ! !
this motor and nylon gears are 2 or 3 years old, and i had the phase amps set too high. But its a fun motor at 75 phase amps even playing it safe. I haven’t tried a direct drive hub motor yet but they look cool i see how that could be advantageous
Testing to a motor's limits is very helpful to the ebike community, thanks!
“One test result is the worth one-thousand expert opinions.”
― Werner Von Braun
Yes keep it up with the G062 videos. We need my info and your doing great.
It's hard to keep up with you as saw you with the Flipsky contoller & phone holder. Then saw another channel rating controllers. Then you again with a phase runner from Grin Tech & BBSHD mid motor. Now you're back with the flipsky phone holder which must be your trademark symbol now. 😂 Found the Flipsky 75100 from Flipsky direct for less than Amazon with a help line I will probably need. A Heybike Mars 2.0 controller has power in but none out so I think it's shot & Heybike can't or won't say. Theirs with shipping & tax is more than a Flipsky so Ima taking the plunge into the unknown like Capt Kirk. Seems to be a far superior controller if I can figure out how to use it.
Flip sky works great, I was kinda messing around and damaged the nylon gear with too many phase amps, 60 to 75 is more conservative. But I had been running 96 for years, so idk 🤷. I am working on some proper settings for the g62 hub with flip sky where it won’t break anything 😂stay tuned! It’s not too bad to figure out, lmk if you have any questions! Your controller might be shot I agree, if the battery has voltage and your controller has voltage in, then something must be messed up inside. Thankfully controllers like the flip sky are affordable and becoming more widely available !
@@EBikeBuilder_ Flipsky is said to have slightly worse PCB current path topology than a stock BBSHD controller according to De-Bodgery channel. Not sure about v2 version yet.
Nylon Gear starts having audible problems after 1:18:13 - But I think it may have been causing problems the entire ride
Hard to tell from your inset photos what happened with the broken teeth. (I blame Minnesota by the way). Did you find the broken teeth in the grease when you opened it up? I would have thought nylon teeth deform or wear down sort of evenly, but surprising to see them fail at a specific point like that.
I havnt had any trouble with my UPP triangle battery to be honest. It doesnt like regen though gets a bit warm and one of my phase wires gets hot too. Only 30amp bms in my one and it still gets me over 40mph though. Charges to the exact same voltage every time and gets me about 25-45 miles range depending on my riding style. Cant wait for the vesc to be delivered
ya dude careful with Regen on a UPP triangle... they use battery cells that can't handle the full amps of regen. They can discharge 30 amps to move your bike, But you cant charge those batteries at 30 amps. U can set it over the edge with that heat. and it will pop off like a pack of firecrackers. They dont have working temperature sensors in the UPP batteries
@@EBikeBuilder_ yeah exactly that. Tbh I didn't like the feel of the regen anyway.. hitting a corner at 40mph and just slightly tapping the brake to lose some speed and then regen kicks in like a parachute and you end up losing too much speed.
This is one of many reasons I'd like to run the vesc. The regen can be capped at 3-4amps and the braking force will be gentle 🤞🏻
I can usually feel when it starts to get a bit warm and I keep a check on the wires and plugs too.
To be fair I don't actually know if I bought a 30a BMS pack or not. I'm just assuming as thats what it happily puts out without heat issues.
My current controller reckons it's rated for 50a max and 25a continuous which if true at 54v fully charged and 40a would be just over 2kw if I'm correct. It says it hits 2kw on the LCD. But I've always been skeptical as it is only a cheap 48v pack with a cheap kit on the bike.
1000 miles ridden so far 🤷🏻♂️
Enjoying your videos feel free to check a few of mine some time 👌🏻👌🏻
Had the same problem with the flipsky, damaged the gears so much that the wheel don’t even spin anymore
I've seen steel faced nylon gears used to beef them up. It might have been E-Cells doing that but not sure where I saw it. Will the Flipsky 75100 Pro work without a desktop refered to & just with a smart phone as that's all I have right now?
You can do it just with your phone yeah, there are a few features like the Realtime Data Logs that you can only process on the desktop app. But TBH i havent evenused the desktop app yet. As for the gears, I guess the nylon gears can handle 75 phase amps / motor current max without issue. However I had mine on 96 phase amps for like 3 years before this happened. So who knows if the nylon gear was wearing out, or if the 105 phase amps is what did it. But yeah I'd run like 60 to 75 phase amps and 2000W max if you dont want to break anything. HOWEVER i ran mine at 96 phase amps and 3500W for like 3 years. SO ifyou have spare nylon gears or dont mind fixing things you can run them a bit harder. Ive also seen those hybrid steel - nylon gears, i guess those can allow you to run higher phase amps, but then other things in the motor start to break instead, Like the parallel / clutch key. I'm still trying to get the clutch assembly off the axle of my other G62 its stuck on after this mishap Lol
I believe steel gears would have wrecked the center shaft gear and the sun gear, nylon is the way to go if you do experiment
How many miles did you put on the hub before the gears went out, and can you turn down the phase amps?
oh, thousands of miles, probably 5k to 10k or more, i rode that motor for years under normal circumstances and the nyloon gears never showed any signs of wear. and Yes you can turn the phase amps down, 65 is a very safe amount, 75 probably safe, going 80 to 90 is possible if you ride it respectfully i did it for a year or longer without any issues. But when i did above 90 phase amps the nylon gears started breaking. i changed it from 90 to 105 fairly quick in that video so im not sure the exact amount. BUt i would say 80+ is danger zone for a bafang g62 1000w
great video! do you have a schematic pdf to know how to connect hub motor to this controller?i have found nothing
@@derivas007i have a video thats processing right now and will come out within an hour or so , where i wire a flipsky 75100 pro v2 to a bafang hub again, i go through all the wiring, its basically the 3 phase wires and then 6 motor signal wires that go through the motor cable to the motor. And the throttle goes to 5v, gnd, adc1, its fairly straightforward but kind of intimidating at first. Check for my latest Flipsky wiring video coming very soon today within an hour or so
@@derivas007 to answer your question flipsky has a wiring diagram that’s available on the website and comes with the controller. But yeah some wires go to the motor , and a few to the throttle
heres the new video i just released : ruclips.net/video/sIupK6esNFc/видео.html
@@EBikeBuilder_ you are the best!!sorry for my english i am french ! really like you video
So what are the differences between this battery pack and the derelict-my-balls pack? Is there something significantly better on paper between the cell packs etc or just like a nicer brand? The performance difference is pretty impressive
Upp triangle battery is crappy cells that can only discharge 7 amps, that battery is 4parallel, so it can only do 7*4 = 28amps nominal. And the voltage sags a ton under load. So if I’m doing 2000w with that battery the voltage will drop like 10V. But on my samsung battery its 40T3 cells that can do 35amps discharge each. And in 5p so this Samsung battery can do 175 amps max discharge. They are better cells, more parallel groups, and it goes faster because the higher voltage directly increases motor rpm. The motor is 8rpm /v - so a 10v sag would be 80rpm less. My battery is also made with nickel and not nickel plated steel
Where did you get that bottle holder from
Walmart "Blackburn Handlebar Carry-All Bag" 12 usd Lol !! www.walmart.com/ip/Blackburn-Handlebar-Carry-All-Bag/379651827?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&adid=22222222227379651827_14069003552_202077872&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=42423897272&wl4=pla-295289030566&wl5=9019031&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=online&wl12=379651827&veh=sem&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwsuSzBhCLARIsAIcdLm4L5Ib8uZiK1hZAk3WbWU7GvDOEI2ECsv-FStYdeNqyEwH2Z_YdpAoaAgE2EALw_wcB
What kind of screen do you have on the bike and is it functional?
Just from a simple physics point of view, a geared motor (the actual motor) is tiny compared to a direct drive motor. You then have a 1" gear driving 3 2" gears, meaning that tiny motor has to spin twice as fast as a direct drive motor.
My AWD bikes are quit and only use 45amps max rear and 20amps max front. Im sorry to say, I think my bikes are much torquier and run 42mph on 60v all day long... Don't shoot the messenger. I appreciate your work 👍
20a + 45a = 65a
65a * 60v = 3900watts
That's enough for steep Pennsylvania hills. With 30ah battery, it seems to be the best setup I can come up with. Perfect all around ebikes that never leaves you wanting for anything. Just my opinion...
2 of my bikes have 60a controllers rear which bring 4800watts total, but all my rear wheels are 1500 to 2000w so I don't think they can use more than 3000watts.
Ripping!
One hundred percentages Correct Bro
Battery makes a Huge Difference, If your got a good Quality one, Heaps better than them cheap hunks of Junk😮
Prolly one of the most Important yet over looked part of a E bike 🚳
I think it must be the Croc's you are wearing not being able to ground themselves to the rest of the world like humans and then it must think you are an ALIEN ! ! !
I have learned that geared hub motors are absolute trash compared to a gearless hub motor when it comes to puting more power to them!
this motor and nylon gears are 2 or 3 years old, and i had the phase amps set too high. But its a fun motor at 75 phase amps even playing it safe. I haven’t tried a direct drive hub motor yet but they look cool i see how that could be advantageous