If you still monitor this channel. thank you so much. I honestly decided to just buy a motor from a pump shop for $300. The old motor I had seized and burned up due to water intrusion. I was ready to call a company and I wouldn’t even have considered this option without this video. Thank you!!!
This video helped me throughout each step of the process. I didn't need to read any instructions. I finished installing my motor and it works great. Thank you!
You sir, are one the most helpful individuals on RUclips. Very happy I found you. My wife and I bought a house with a pool about 4 months ago and neither of us knew anything about them. Your videos have been a lifesaver. Thanks so much man!
I can't tell you how much I appreciate you going through different motor models to show what you can expect to see most people don't take the time to go this deep into motor replacement.
YAY I did it!! I replaced the motor. It took me a week because every step that Dave did in a couple minutes took me much longer. I actually had to take the mounting plate with the motor attached to a local mechanic because I could not get the bolts off. He kindly did it for free. I also had trouble getting the wiring back through the hose but finally yesterday I turned the pump back on and to my happy amazement it worked!!!! Thank you so much!
Thank you very much for all detailed information, you were the only who show the correct position on the washer for the propeller, thanks again and blessings…
I am impressed on how detailed you are in explaining the process. I appreciate the way you took your time to edit your videos , and explained every part of your process and what id does. Thank you so much for your work.
5 STAR REVIEW... How to Replace a Pool Pump Motor -The Ultimate Video Guide is as good as it gets. Quick clear video and concise how to walk through includes easy diagrams and reminders to set the proper voltage. I got 5 yrs on original Sta-Rite/Pentair motor, and 5 years on recommended AO Smith/Now Century professionally installed, used this video for motor number three. Do all the detailed steps carefully, I missed some steps on the seal install, only magic lube exactly as detailed. On review of his instructions he mentioned that it would leak at the bottom of the motor if the seal was not properly installed, and it did, went back and did it his way, success. Impressive, highly recommend Swimming Pool Tips, Reviews. Doug AZ
This tutorial really saved me. Swapped in the new pump and go kit and so far it's purring like a kitten. Thanks for a really high quality instruction video.
Oh my goodness. I did it myself, on my birthday no less. Easy to follow. However, yesterday realized I needed to order new guards and impeller. No biggy. Thank you so so much!
Just switched mine out. THX for uploading the video or it woulda been a lot more $$$ outta my already empty pockets. Guys like you ROCK. It was also basic n simple & it didn't take long except for the drive to get the newer motor. THX again!
Awesome! Super helpful as always. With all this available there really is no excuse. Yesterday I changed out a pentair motor and seems that this Hayward motor had a few more steps to it. Glad I started out on the easy one. Thanks again!!
Excellent video, I just swapped out mine and it went easy! I would like to point out that the breaker you displayed in the video was NOT a GFCI breaker, and gfci protection on pool equipment is EXTREMELY important, not to mention it is required by Article 480 in the NEC. And the LFNMC connector on the pump itself was in poor condition. You don't want breaks in the conduit. Thanks!
@13:28 where did you hook up that motor ground wire on top of the motor itself you did not show that??? you know it has been a long time since i talked with you, but you have help me so much on pool service and you are greatly appreciated for step by step instructions, yep i don't know how i would of taken care of this pool without you and that POOL RX is the best thing every learned by you, save me a great amount of time and money going that route yep for sure, i still am learning from you over many years. Thanks again...
I really enjoy your RUclips videos you are very clear and explain very well I also like how you show us other pool pumps examples besides the one your working on just in case we have a certain model the best part of your videos . I always come back to check your videos for help. You do a great job keep up the good work and the RUclips videos.
My old pool motor had a bad bearing, it makes a terrible noise. I am planing to replace the motor. I went to Leslie pool and they told me $270 to replace the motor and assemble it for me including the impeller seal which is $19 value. After I watched your video, I decided to do it myself. Ordered parts and motor online, they are on their way. Your video is very helpful! Thank you Man!
Your video was by far the best out there! Couldn't have done it without your video. Thumbs up and subscribing so that it helps you out, but it's not nearly as much as you helped me. Thanks!
Awesome video! Thanks for the help! I got everything together and then noticed it was leaking out of the bottom. Rewatched the video and noticed the part about the ceramic piece on the impeller seal. The new seal I bought from the pool store was missing the ceramic piece. I went back and they gave me one that had the ceramic on it, put it all back together, and it is running like a champ!
Thank you so much! This video was awesome. I'm glad I watched this one before I started. There were a few crucial steps that were left out in one of the other videos I watched that would have really set me back. Just replaced my pool motor and she's purring like a kitten. :D
I'm about to perform this job in a few days. my 17 year old motor just have up the ghost. thanks for this dope video. I'll be referring to it when I start
Hi, great video. Thank you. I have a maxflo 2800 series and it’s loosing suction, vacuum is not longer moving. Got the pump apart and everything looks fine. Do you suggest me to install the white wear ring you did between the impeler and the diffuser? Mine doesn’t come with it as per original party sp2800b. Thank you
Thanks for a great & informative video! I just installed a new Century 1.5 motor. I installed red & orange wires EXACTLY how they were on my old pump (L1&L2) but the motor only hums when I turn on power. Impeller is spinning easily by hand. Any suggestions???
This video was a big help with all the steps. Thank you. My impeller was quite stuck, bought a strap wrench didn't help. Priced out a new impeller, and housing, decided to use channel locks, and either fix or replace impeller, as it would likely break. At least I could save the housing. Thank goodness it worked as 90 degree weather is here.
Thanks for the demos, made for easier diy repair on my end. Mine is a different motor and pump (square flange) but you were able to make enough references that I felt comfortable to give it a try and I must say it was easier than I thought with your help.
Thanks for your efforts increating the video. Was useful in understanding what components are part of the assembly. Turns out, ours’ middle shaft that runs from each end of the pump was rusted from water damage. End up using bit of wd40 to get it turning again
Not to put down your video in any way but I noticed the pump had solderless crimps on solid (non-stranded) wire. Although I have seen this it is not correct and can lead to a lot of problems and sometimes premature motor failure. Those spade crimps should only be used on stranded wires, what you can do is either put the wires directly under the screws (yes, it's difficult and I've done 100's) or you could make a small pigtail out of stranded wire and then use some wire nuts just making sure nothing touches the spinning bits of the motor. I do realize you're not an electrician and it was that way to begin with but I feel being a teacher and the kind of guy that likes to learn that this is a very bad practice that you'd like to be aware of. Also, to hold the shaft and remove or install a new impeller it's better to slip a 7/16" open ended wrench carefully behind the switch and rotated the shaft until it grabs the flat spot, sometimes a lot of force is required and just jamming a screwdriver against those delicate parts could damage them. Lastly, to get those stubborn motor mounting plate bolts out a longer breaker bar helps but also putting it on the ground and placing your foot atop the motor can make it a lot easier so you have good leverage, trying to hold it between your legs and be really difficult. Here in NJ we change probably 100 motors or more a season, it seems lately they last only a couple seasons these days and often after sitting all winter seize up and may not start, if they do they're often so noisy they still need to be changed. I actually setup a kit with a cordless driver and extensions to make changing out motors a faster process, in addition carrying crimps and proper split bolt connectors to extend bond wires can be a lifesaver. I really wish electricians would stop using solid wire inside the liquidtight to the pumps, it makes everything difficult and oftentimes those solid wires also break from fatigue after a couple motor changes. Happy 2020 and keep making these great videos!
I have a .75hp that’s on its way out... but I have a 1750 canister which I was told is gigantic for that pump and my 12,000gal pool. What do you recommend to do? Replace motor only or do I need to replace motor and the canister (cartridge) to a smaller size?
Good vid. How tight do you have to screw the impeller back in? Before you use the set screw that is. (You're also getting a new set of sockets/wrench for XMas!) 😂👍
How would you test which wire goes were (to ensure there is no motor burnout)? My present issue is I have 3 wires...one is the ground (green)....but the other two are both purple 🙄. So visually I cannot make out which one goes where. Is there a way to use my multimeter to figure this out? Thank you!
Excellent video. Thanks so much. I have a question. The area between my pump and motor on my Hayward is kind of loose and wiggles a little causing a small drip between the pump basket area, and the impeller portion. Will tightening those 6 screws tighten that up, or is a seal or something else causing this issue? Thanks
I misplaced the pool-pump inner parts, and bought SPX2610CKIT, but it looks like that is the wrong kit.. the diffuser neck was about 1/2 inch too long. Any hint what Hayward diffuser part I should use? The Hayward is about 28 years old at least.
Thanks so much for this awesome video. You helped me to replace our motor. I also discovered the impeller ring was broken and the diffuser gasket was worn. Replaced those too. Then, pump was not priming. I got it to prime by dumping water into the pump, but it eventually fails again (check flow error message on pool pilot, and no/low suction from skimmer). Observed discharge pipe on top of pump was leaking, and had a plumber fix that. After that repair, everything seemed fine until we tried to connect the vacuum to the skimmer, then check flow error message came on the nano pool pilot. I've followed all the troubleshooting advice I can find. All gaskets are checked and lubed, all parts checked for debris, sprayed water into skimmer hose. Still getting flow error message and much less suction from skimmer. Any suggestions? Thanks so much.
@@SPL Thanks so much for replying to my comment. I appreciate your time. I think we located the problem. The filter we were using came with the house we purchased five months ago - so there's no telling exactly how old it is. Someone suggested that the filter could be causing the problem. That certainly didn't seem obvious to us. We changed to a new, high quality filter and lo - the system is flowing beautifully now. We had quite a lot of algae growth during the interim when I replaced the motor. Evidently, even though we were cleaning the old filter frequently as it was accumulating algae, it was not up to the task of maintaining the pressure while doing so. I think we're on the right track now. Thanks again for the help changing the motor - you saved us some big bucks!
Thanks great video everything worked like a charm after following every step. The only thing I would of added is when taking off the impeller step off the old motor even though you cover adding it back on the new motor. Great video thanks again.
A local pool store will have all the parts you need. Just let them know what Hayward pump you are wanting the motor and seal for. I think it is the easiest way to get the parts.
Great video and very helpful. Quick question, the motor I replaced looks pretty similar to the old motor you initially showed and the new motor I am installing is the UST1102. It was for a Hayward Super Pump. The huge difference I noticed with the new motor was that it does not have the same power even though they are both 1HP. Is there something I am doing wrong in the install? Also, how would you know to set it to 115v v.s. 230v? Thanks in advance!
To know what voltage to set it at, u could look at the breakers. The video showed that the difference between a 115 volt breaker (in the electrical panel) and a 240 volt breaker.
Great video as always. I have a leaking from the intake at the junction with my booster pump. It also sounds like the bearings are wearing out as it's pretty loud. worth it to try to fix both issues or just get a new pump? Am a newbie with mechanicals, so would need Lego type instructions to repair.
sobewisdom I think it would still be less expensive to replace the motor and repair the leak then installing a new pump. You might just pull the motor and take it to your local pool store and see if they can replace the bearings. After that the motor will get at least a couple of year more use until it starts to wear out again.
I replaced my motor (century) and everything looks identical to this video. Added new seals and even used the same lube as you did and when i turned it on the pump sounded great but the whole thing is leaking like crazy. looks like the shaft seal and where the motor mounts up to the filter housing are shot the best i can tell. All of the seals went in tight and seemed to be the correct sizes so i am at a loss here. I didnt touch the ceramic like you recommended either. This is my first pool pump but i am a handy guy and everything came apart and went back together perfectly. I tightened everything like it was on the old pump which had no leaks but I ordered my seal kit off of amazon...have you had problems with faulty seals and would you recommend a particular brand? Please help me out the wife is driving me crazy to get this pool going lol.
Great video! Looks like the most delicate part is the ceramic seal. If silicon happens to get on that, is it ruined or can it be cleaned? Also, the video does not mention this: there is an O-Ring on the elbow that the power runs through - that should be inspected, replaced if necessary, and a little silicon would help create a water-tight seal.
I ran into the manufacturer of the seal at a trade show last year and they told me not to bother adding silicone to the seal since the motors on the market today will burn out in less than 5 years as opposed to the seal going bad. In the good old days when the motors were made in the US or Mexico they would outlast the seals - I have some still on my route going on 15 to 20 plus years... put you can wipe it off with a rag and it should be fine. Good tip on the Elbow O-ring.
@@SPL I remember those days, I think we have a few anthony pools with original motors going on close to 30 years but today 3-5 years is average. Sad they went to aluminum windings and cheap bearings that make noise in a few years. Hopefully things will change for the better with TEFC and VS pump motors, hoping they have better components and not just more features.
I'm trying to replace a Marathon. Is there a reason why it won't just unbolt from the pool pump housing? I unbolted the 4 bolts but it will not separate. Are they designed differently or is there a trick to getting them off?
Yea I tried turning it, wiggling it, pulling it, prying it. I didn’t know if I should just unbolt it from the motor mounting plate and go from there. It will not come off currently and I didn’t want to break the impeller or anything else. Didn’t know if it was some weird design that was specific to a Marathon.
Hey man great video, I just replaced my pump seal and my capacitor on my dyna glas pump and I went start it all up it'll leak from the seal plate. The oring for the seal plate looks good and im tightening it down fairly well but it just keeps leaking from all sides. Any suggetions?
+jack203Ofor Seal plate sounds like it may be a little warped. I suggest replacing the o-ring in it and lubing it up really good with a good silicone lube like Magic Lube - the red tube.
That was a d^mn good video....thank you very much for taking the time.....I couldn't figure out how to get the impeller off. Learned a lot more in the process! Thx!
I'm trying to reinstall my pool pump back on to my impeller, it's held together with a ring clamp but however it is a pain in the butt to get the screw on to the clamp to close it. Do you have maybe an idea what tool i can use to tighten the clamp so i'm able to push the screw thru and tighten the nut on to the clamp? I have a AO Smith B2852 pump. I notice your video it's held together by screws so i'm guessing mine is a little older. I hope this makes sense!
When I turn unit on the motor starts smoking. I will try to replace the motor but could anything else be causing malfunction? I don't want to buy and replace motor just to find out something else is also wrong. Thanks!
I haven't forgot about speaking to you about your website. As to being on it as the certified Pentair tech/Pentair warranty tech, to help answer some of the questions that come into you. I've been just gearing myself up for a little bit of expansion myself. And trying to work everything a little bit different to be able to free up a day out of the week where I can participate and be able to answer some of the questions that come in an be able to take care of all of my jobs and be able to keep up with any questions that come in and not fall behind on either one.
Not sure how many questions will be generated each month as I have never offered this service before. If you have a website I can also send people your way. I forgot, what area of the country are you in?
I've been doing pools for a while and I got stuck with the propeller being cracked and not wanting to come off. Thanks for the tips to insure I save time and money
Our Variable speed pump went out, due to availability or lack thereof, we had to replace our VSP with a single speed motor. Now, can we rewire our aqualink RS system to "function" with the single speed pump? Possibly with the capacitor somehow? Please help!
plumbing Diagram for installing a Booster pump. I bought a new polaris 280 that requires a booster pump. where do I cut into the skimmer or the main drain return line? Thanks
+M LeBaron It actually needs a dedicated return line. If your pool is already plumbed you may not be able to install the booster pump since all return jets are usually connected together when the pool is built. Why not return it and go with the non-booster pump 360?
Hi, I currently have a Magentek Century Centurion pump, model #: WFE-28 and I was wondering if you could possibly give me motors that are similar to this model. This pump is over 12 years old now and I cannot seem to find a similar pump. Thank you!
+David Kim In your case it is best to take the burned out motor (I assume you are changing the motor) to your local pool store so they can match it for you and give you some options. Matching online can be difficult for a pump that old.
My motor was smoking after the freeze and wasn’t working. I bought the same motor and a pump seal. The system is only a year and a half old. Should I need to replace anything else?
How to Replace a Pool Pump Motor: I created this Ultimate video guide to help walk you through all of the steps in replacing your swimming pool motor. It is not overly complicated but there is a lot of details involved in the process. You can do it yourself if you are handy or hire a pool professional to do it. I cover taking the wires out, removing the old motor, installing the new seal and other pump parts and wiring and installing the new motor.
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
If you still monitor this channel. thank you so much. I honestly decided to just buy a motor from a pump shop for $300. The old motor I had seized and burned up due to water intrusion. I was ready to call a company and I wouldn’t even have considered this option without this video. Thank you!!!
This video helped me throughout each step of the process. I didn't need to read any instructions. I finished installing my motor and it works great. Thank you!
You sir, are one the most helpful individuals on RUclips. Very happy I found you. My wife and I bought a house with a pool about 4 months ago and neither of us knew anything about them. Your videos have been a lifesaver. Thanks so much man!
Thanks!
Tony Bryant I Know Right!
😅😂@@austinm3734m?a❤31t❤😂l🎉❤❤
I can't tell you how much I appreciate you going through different motor models to show what you can expect to see most people don't take the time to go this deep into motor replacement.
YAY I did it!! I replaced the motor. It took me a week because every step that Dave did in a couple minutes took me much longer. I actually had to take the mounting plate with the motor attached to a local mechanic because I could not get the bolts off. He kindly did it for free. I also had trouble getting the wiring back through the hose but finally yesterday I turned the pump back on and to my happy amazement it worked!!!! Thank you so much!
Great job!!
Thank you very much for all detailed information, you were the only who show the correct position on the washer for the propeller, thanks again and blessings…
I am impressed on how detailed you are in explaining the process. I appreciate the way you took your time to edit your videos , and explained every part of your process and what id does. Thank you so much for your work.
5 STAR REVIEW... How to Replace a Pool Pump Motor -The Ultimate Video Guide is as good as it gets. Quick clear video and concise how to walk through includes easy diagrams and reminders to set the proper voltage. I got 5 yrs on original Sta-Rite/Pentair motor, and 5 years on recommended AO Smith/Now Century professionally installed, used this video for motor number three.
Do all the detailed steps carefully, I missed some steps on the seal install, only magic lube exactly as detailed. On review of his instructions he mentioned that it would leak at the bottom of the motor if the seal was not properly installed, and it did, went back and did it his way, success. Impressive, highly recommend Swimming Pool Tips, Reviews. Doug AZ
Thanks for the video. I was able to replace my motor in 4 hours due to your detailed straight to the point informative video. Much appreciated.
This tutorial really saved me. Swapped in the new pump and go kit and so far it's purring like a kitten. Thanks for a really high quality instruction video.
Oh my goodness. I did it myself, on my birthday no less. Easy to follow. However, yesterday realized I needed to order new guards and impeller. No biggy. Thank you so so much!
Nice step by step video by someone who obviously knows what they're doing. Thanks!
Just switched mine out. THX for uploading the video or it woulda been a lot more $$$ outta my already empty pockets. Guys like you ROCK. It was also basic n simple & it didn't take long except for the drive to get the newer motor. THX again!
Awesome! Super helpful as always. With all this available there really is no excuse.
Yesterday I changed out a pentair motor and seems that this Hayward motor had a few more steps to it. Glad I started out on the easy one. Thanks again!!
5 stars and many thanks for that great video. Very good instructional video. Kudos.
Excellent video, I just swapped out mine and it went easy! I would like to point out that the breaker you displayed in the video was NOT a GFCI breaker, and gfci protection on pool equipment is EXTREMELY important, not to mention it is required by Article 480 in the NEC. And the LFNMC connector on the pump itself was in poor condition. You don't want breaks in the conduit. Thanks!
@13:28 where did you hook up that motor ground wire on top of the motor itself you did not show that??? you know it has been a long time since i talked with you, but you have help me so much on pool service and you are greatly appreciated for step by step instructions, yep i don't know how i would of taken care of this pool without you and that POOL RX is the best thing every learned by you, save me a great amount of time and money going that route yep for sure, i still am learning from you over many years. Thanks again...
It's a bonding wire to prevent shocking.
I really enjoy your RUclips videos you are very clear and explain very well I also like how you show us other pool pumps examples besides the one your working on just in case we have a certain model the best part of your videos . I always come back to check your videos for help. You do a great job keep up the good work and the RUclips videos.
great video! Helped my husband change out the pump motor in a few hours on a Sunday!
My old pool motor had a bad bearing, it makes a terrible noise. I am planing to replace the motor. I went to Leslie pool and they told me $270 to replace the motor and assemble it for me including the impeller seal which is $19 value.
After I watched your video, I decided to do it myself. Ordered parts and motor online, they are on their way. Your video is very helpful! Thank you Man!
Zeyi Wang good job, next learn how to replace the bearing so you can save more $$$$$.
You are fantastic! What a professional, so clear and easy to understand. All the important points covered it seems
nice
You sure make it look easy!
Your video was by far the best out there! Couldn't have done it without your video. Thumbs up and subscribing so that it helps you out, but it's not nearly as much as you helped me. Thanks!
Awesome video! Thanks for the help! I got everything together and then noticed it was leaking out of the bottom. Rewatched the video and noticed the part about the ceramic piece on the impeller seal. The new seal I bought from the pool store was missing the ceramic piece. I went back and they gave me one that had the ceramic on it, put it all back together, and it is running like a champ!
Karl Decker Great!
You are the man! Thank you for taking the time out to make this video I will highly recommend you! Thanks again brother!!!!!
Thanks for this. Super easy to follow. Gave me the courage to replace our old howling pump motor.
Thanks - I have the same motor and needed info on how to keep the shaft from turning. Your screwdriver trick worked for me.
Glad it helped
Great video, very easy to follow. I like that you switch between motors and pumps. Pool time!!!
Thank you so much! This video was awesome. I'm glad I watched this one before I started. There were a few crucial steps that were left out in one of the other videos I watched that would have really set me back. Just replaced my pool motor and she's purring like a kitten. :D
Great to hear everything is humming along again! 👊
I'm about to perform this job in a few days. my 17 year old motor just have up the ghost. thanks for this dope video. I'll be referring to it when I start
Great how to video, thank you. Do you know if this Century motor needs oil for the bearings? If so, where is the hole for the oil?
I never add oil.
This was very helpful. I was able to replace my pump motor successfully without any previous experience! Cheers!
Great job! 👍
Hi, great video. Thank you. I have a maxflo 2800 series and it’s loosing suction, vacuum is not longer moving. Got the pump apart and everything looks fine. Do you suggest me to install the white wear ring you did between the impeler and the diffuser? Mine doesn’t come with it as per original party sp2800b. Thank you
The wear ring is not critical.
@@SPL thank you, do you have any advice as to what can cause the low suction? Impeller is in good condition
Thanks for a great & informative video! I just installed a new Century 1.5 motor. I installed red & orange wires EXACTLY how they were on my old pump (L1&L2) but the motor only hums when I turn on power. Impeller is spinning easily by hand. Any suggestions???
It could be the seal plate is warped.
the video was great, lots of detail, lots of great info. Thank you
This video was a big help with all the steps. Thank you. My impeller was quite stuck, bought a strap wrench didn't help. Priced out a new impeller, and housing, decided to use channel locks, and either fix or replace impeller, as it would likely break. At least I could save the housing. Thank goodness it worked as 90 degree weather is here.
👍
Thanks for the demos, made for easier diy repair on my end. Mine is a different motor and pump (square flange) but you were able to make enough references that I felt comfortable to give it a try and I must say it was easier than I thought with your help.
Thanks for your efforts increating the video. Was useful in understanding what components are part of the assembly. Turns out, ours’ middle shaft that runs from each end of the pump was rusted from water damage. End up using bit of wd40 to get it turning again
Great video . I installed our century motor today video was a big help
So detailed!! Thank you!
very detailed step by step instruction. I just replaced my motor yesterday by following it. Big thanks to you man!
Great! 👍
Did the black washer on the actual motor come on the new one?
Brother I have a question ,can you use a sp3021 impeller instead of a sp 3000, will it work?
Do you know of any brands that do in person classes to learn how to do repairs like this? (Pump, heater, lights, etc)
Yes, Jandy, Pentair and Hayward hold clinics but it is not exactly hands on but still very helpful
@@SPL thank you
Question when buy new motor all seal and gasket come with it or will have buy separate.. thanks 😊
Those are sold separately.
Fantastic work 👍👍👍👍👍
Not to put down your video in any way but I noticed the pump had solderless crimps on solid (non-stranded) wire. Although I have seen this it is not correct and can lead to a lot of problems and sometimes premature motor failure. Those spade crimps should only be used on stranded wires, what you can do is either put the wires directly under the screws (yes, it's difficult and I've done 100's) or you could make a small pigtail out of stranded wire and then use some wire nuts just making sure nothing touches the spinning bits of the motor. I do realize you're not an electrician and it was that way to begin with but I feel being a teacher and the kind of guy that likes to learn that this is a very bad practice that you'd like to be aware of. Also, to hold the shaft and remove or install a new impeller it's better to slip a 7/16" open ended wrench carefully behind the switch and rotated the shaft until it grabs the flat spot, sometimes a lot of force is required and just jamming a screwdriver against those delicate parts could damage them. Lastly, to get those stubborn motor mounting plate bolts out a longer breaker bar helps but also putting it on the ground and placing your foot atop the motor can make it a lot easier so you have good leverage, trying to hold it between your legs and be really difficult. Here in NJ we change probably 100 motors or more a season, it seems lately they last only a couple seasons these days and often after sitting all winter seize up and may not start, if they do they're often so noisy they still need to be changed. I actually setup a kit with a cordless driver and extensions to make changing out motors a faster process, in addition carrying crimps and proper split bolt connectors to extend bond wires can be a lifesaver. I really wish electricians would stop using solid wire inside the liquidtight to the pumps, it makes everything difficult and oftentimes those solid wires also break from fatigue after a couple motor changes. Happy 2020 and keep making these great videos!
Do you have a video on how to change out a Jandy Stealth motor please?
I have a .75hp that’s on its way out... but I have a 1750 canister which I was told is gigantic for that pump and my 12,000gal pool. What do you recommend to do? Replace motor only or do I need to replace motor and the canister (cartridge) to a smaller size?
If you mean filter, that won't really matter much. The bigger the better.
Did you set the voltage switch on the Century pool motor at 230V? Shouldn't it be set to 115V given our line voltage in the USA?
Many of our systems run off of 230V here.
Good vid. How tight do you have to screw the impeller back in? Before you use the set screw that is. (You're also getting a new set of sockets/wrench for XMas!) 😂👍
Just hand tight. Those were from the Titanic. 🤣
How would you test which wire goes were (to ensure there is no motor burnout)? My present issue is I have 3 wires...one is the ground (green)....but the other two are both purple 🙄. So visually I cannot make out which one goes where. Is there a way to use my multimeter to figure this out? Thank you!
If it is 230V it wouldn't matter. But if it is 120V then yes, you would want to find the wire giving off about 110V - that is the hot wire.
In the process of swapping out motors and my wiring has 1 green and 2 blacks is the wiring configuration the same for 230v?
Sounds like the installer just used black wires. Should be the same.
You rock. Good explanation, short (relative) and sweet and too the point. Thank you, you saved me a ton of money!
Excellent video. Thanks so much. I have a question. The area between my pump and motor on my Hayward is kind of loose and wiggles a little causing a small drip between the pump basket area, and the impeller portion. Will tightening those 6 screws tighten that up, or is a seal or something else causing this issue? Thanks
It might or the seal might need to be replaced. Can't hurt to try tightening them up.
Thank you
I misplaced the pool-pump inner parts, and bought SPX2610CKIT, but it looks like that is the wrong kit.. the diffuser neck was about 1/2 inch too long. Any hint what Hayward diffuser part I should use? The Hayward is about 28 years old at least.
Take it into a local pool shop and they have old schematic books and likely can match it.
You are awesome, very friendly, straight to the point and easy. Thank you so much!
Thanks so much for this awesome video. You helped me to replace our motor. I also discovered the impeller ring was broken and the diffuser gasket was worn. Replaced those too. Then, pump was not priming. I got it to prime by dumping water into the pump, but it eventually fails again (check flow error message on pool pilot, and no/low suction from skimmer). Observed discharge pipe on top of pump was leaking, and had a plumber fix that. After that repair, everything seemed fine until we tried to connect the vacuum to the skimmer, then check flow error message came on the nano pool pilot. I've followed all the troubleshooting advice I can find. All gaskets are checked and lubed, all parts checked for debris, sprayed water into skimmer hose. Still getting flow error message and much less suction from skimmer. Any suggestions? Thanks so much.
There is air still getting into the system from somewhere. Maybe have the plumber come back out and check the system again.
@@SPL Thanks so much for replying to my comment. I appreciate your time. I think we located the problem. The filter we were using came with the house we purchased five months ago - so there's no telling exactly how old it is. Someone suggested that the filter could be causing the problem. That certainly didn't seem obvious to us. We changed to a new, high quality filter and lo - the system is flowing beautifully now. We had quite a lot of algae growth during the interim when I replaced the motor. Evidently, even though we were cleaning the old filter frequently as it was accumulating algae, it was not up to the task of maintaining the pressure while doing so. I think we're on the right track now. Thanks again for the help changing the motor - you saved us some big bucks!
That was a great video. I'm going to take my pump apart today and try to see what's going on with it.
This video is a great help . Thank you ! I will buy the motor and Do it myself .
Thanks great video everything worked like a charm after following every step. The only thing I would of added is when taking off the impeller step off the old motor even though you cover adding it back on the new motor. Great video thanks again.
Very Good video... As an up and coming business I enjoy your lessons a lot. Thanks!!
You know where i can get the parts for this model reliant model bc2748nc
First, is the Century motor compatible with a Hayward unit?
Second, where did you order/get your motor, seals etc from? And cost?
Thank you.
A local pool store will have all the parts you need. Just let them know what Hayward pump you are wanting the motor and seal for. I think it is the easiest way to get the parts.
Great video and very helpful. Quick question, the motor I replaced looks pretty similar to the old motor you initially showed and the new motor I am installing is the UST1102. It was for a Hayward Super Pump. The huge difference I noticed with the new motor was that it does not have the same power even though they are both 1HP. Is there something I am doing wrong in the install? Also, how would you know to set it to 115v v.s. 230v? Thanks in advance!
The power should be the same. Maybe the Impeller is bad or diffuser?
To know what voltage to set it at, u could look at the breakers. The video showed that the difference between a 115 volt breaker (in the electrical panel) and a 240 volt breaker.
How did he get the thingy with the spring off?
Great video as always. I have a leaking from the intake at the junction with my booster pump. It also sounds like the bearings are wearing out as it's pretty loud. worth it to try to fix both issues or just get a new pump? Am a newbie with mechanicals, so would need Lego type instructions to repair.
sobewisdom I think it would still be less expensive to replace the motor and repair the leak then installing a new pump. You might just pull the motor and take it to your local pool store and see if they can replace the bearings. After that the motor will get at least a couple of year more use until it starts to wear out again.
I replaced my motor (century) and everything looks identical to this video. Added new seals and even used the same lube as you did and when i turned it on the pump sounded great but the whole thing is leaking like crazy. looks like the shaft seal and where the motor mounts up to the filter housing are shot the best i can tell. All of the seals went in tight and seemed to be the correct sizes so i am at a loss here. I didnt touch the ceramic like you recommended either. This is my first pool pump but i am a handy guy and everything came apart and went back together perfectly. I tightened everything like it was on the old pump which had no leaks but I ordered my seal kit off of amazon...have you had problems with faulty seals and would you recommend a particular brand? Please help me out the wife is driving me crazy to get this pool going lol.
It sounds like a faulty seal. Maybe get one at your local pool store.
Do you need to isolate the pump or is there no pressure to worry about??
If it is at the same level as the pool, no. If it is below the pool water level then you will need to turn off the valves.
Great video! Looks like the most delicate part is the ceramic seal. If silicon happens to get on that, is it ruined or can it be cleaned?
Also, the video does not mention this: there is an O-Ring on the elbow that the power runs through - that should be inspected, replaced if necessary, and a little silicon would help create a water-tight seal.
I ran into the manufacturer of the seal at a trade show last year and they told me not to bother adding silicone to the seal since the motors on the market today will burn out in less than 5 years as opposed to the seal going bad. In the good old days when the motors were made in the US or Mexico they would outlast the seals - I have some still on my route going on 15 to 20 plus years... put you can wipe it off with a rag and it should be fine. Good tip on the Elbow O-ring.
@@SPL I remember those days, I think we have a few anthony pools with original motors going on close to 30 years but today 3-5 years is average. Sad they went to aluminum windings and cheap bearings that make noise in a few years. Hopefully things will change for the better with TEFC and VS pump motors, hoping they have better components and not just more features.
What’s a good price to have it professionally done? Great video very detailed.
Depends on the hp. Add $50 for each hp. so a 1 hp motor install is about $450 in CA - including the motor. A 1.5 hp $500 and 2 hp $550
I'm trying to replace a Marathon. Is there a reason why it won't just unbolt from the pool pump housing? I unbolted the 4 bolts but it will not separate. Are they designed differently or is there a trick to getting them off?
If all the bolts are off, it may just be on their tight. Try pulling it off with some force.
Yea I tried turning it, wiggling it, pulling it, prying it. I didn’t know if I should just unbolt it from the motor mounting plate and go from there. It will not come off currently and I didn’t want to break the impeller or anything else. Didn’t know if it was some weird design that was specific to a Marathon.
Hey man great video, I just replaced my pump seal and my capacitor on my dyna glas pump and I went start it all up it'll leak from the seal plate. The oring for the seal plate looks good and im tightening it down fairly well but it just keeps leaking from all sides. Any suggetions?
+jack203Ofor Seal plate sounds like it may be a little warped. I suggest replacing the o-ring in it and lubing it up really good with a good silicone lube like Magic Lube - the red tube.
Swimming Pool Tips, Reviews & How To -MrDgvb1 so how would I know if the seal plate is warped and the red one is better than the blue one?
That was a d^mn good video....thank you very much for taking the time.....I couldn't figure out how to get the impeller off. Learned a lot more in the process! Thx!
Installed new oem impeller and diffuser...when i screw diffuser down it locks up the impeller and will not move...thoughts?
Greatly appreciate your videos... You've saved me a ton of money! :)
Awesome job! This helped so much!
I'm trying to reinstall my pool pump back on to my impeller, it's held together with a ring clamp but however it is a pain in the butt to get the screw on to the clamp to close it. Do you have maybe an idea what tool i can use to tighten the clamp so i'm able to push the screw thru and tighten the nut on to the clamp? I have a AO Smith B2852 pump. I notice your video it's held together by screws so i'm guessing mine is a little older. I hope this makes sense!
Easiest solution is to take it to your local pool store and see if they can do it for you, they have all the tools on hand.
i got it figured out! Thanks for responding!
Swimming Pool Tips, Reviews & How To -MrDgvb
What is the name of machine for swimming pool motor .thank you
Does new motors come with gaskets and new ringsm
No it doesn't come with any parts.
Thank you for your vids. They're a great help!
Thanks dude! Another great help!!
The wife now knows "YOU" trained me to use my shirt to clean things.
😂
May i use a hayward motor in a wisperflow housing???
As long as it is a square flange I don't see why not.
When I turn unit on the motor starts smoking. I will try to replace the motor but could anything else be causing malfunction? I don't want to buy and replace motor just to find out something else is also wrong. Thanks!
Sounds like the a bad motor. They usually don't smoke like that unless the coil/bearings are burning out. I've seen flames shooting out of them too.
I haven't forgot about speaking to you about your website. As to being on it as the certified Pentair tech/Pentair warranty tech, to help answer some of the questions that come into you. I've been just gearing myself up for a little bit of expansion myself. And trying to work everything a little bit different to be able to free up a day out of the week where I can participate and be able to answer some of the questions that come in an be able to take care of all of my jobs and be able to keep up with any questions that come in and not fall behind on either one.
Not sure how many questions will be generated each month as I have never offered this service before. If you have a website I can also send people your way. I forgot, what area of the country are you in?
Maybe this is a silly question but with two red wires how did you know which one is the load?
Both are load wires in a 230v set up - wires to different terminals on the time clock.
Very nice clean install, keep up the good work
Thanks! 👍
....WHAT IS THE PART NAME OF THE V-SHAPED SWITCH THAT PROVIDES POWER TO THE CAPACITOR?
I've been doing pools for a while and I got stuck with the propeller being cracked and not wanting to come off. Thanks for the tips to insure I save time and money
This helped a lot, thx!
Our Variable speed pump went out, due to availability or lack thereof, we had to replace our VSP with a single speed motor. Now, can we rewire our aqualink RS system to "function" with the single speed pump? Possibly with the capacitor somehow? Please help!
It should work with a single speed pump. Maybe in the pump set up you need to change it from VS to single speed.
My existing impeller didn’t have a wear ring when I took the old burnt motor off. How important is that impeller wear ring?
Not important.
Great informative video. I learned a lot. Thanks.
plumbing Diagram for installing a Booster pump.
I bought a new polaris 280 that requires a booster pump. where do I cut into the skimmer or the main drain return line?
Thanks
+M LeBaron It actually needs a dedicated return line. If your pool is already plumbed you may not be able to install the booster pump since all return jets are usually connected together when the pool is built. Why not return it and go with the non-booster pump 360?
Thanks, James. I did exactly what you recommended and the motor is running smoothly now.
Hi, I currently have a Magentek Century Centurion pump, model #: WFE-28 and I was wondering if you could possibly give me motors that are similar to this model. This pump is over 12 years old now and I cannot seem to find a similar pump. Thank you!
+David Kim In your case it is best to take the burned out motor (I assume you are changing the motor) to your local pool store so they can match it for you and give you some options. Matching online can be difficult for a pump that old.
My motor was smoking after the freeze and wasn’t working. I bought the same motor and a pump seal. The system is only a year and a half old. Should I need to replace anything else?
Just the motor usually and seal.
on connecting the 2 red wires does it matter which place you put them?
+PAMAROSHOUSE Doesn't matter.
thank you
Thank you! Very helpful 👍
How to Replace a Pool Pump Motor: I created this Ultimate video guide to help walk you through all of the steps in replacing your swimming pool motor. It is not overly complicated but there is a lot of details involved in the process. You can do it yourself if you are handy or hire a pool professional to do it. I cover taking the wires out, removing the old motor, installing the new seal and other pump parts and wiring and installing the new motor.