Good stuff, Z. Word to those running a Logi GPro wheel, recommend upping the vibration settings to 150, then adjusting on the wheel base as required. The update 1.49 Nerfed the Trueforce and this will help get it back... or at least get closer.
I use 125 in game vibration and 35 tf audio on the wheel base. Anymore than that is ridiculous. How people run 150/100 baffles me. Surely you can't even feel the actual ffb with it vibrating like a sex toy constantly
@@King_Ears Before 1.49 I was running 100 in game and 40 on the base. Post 1.49 I am at 145 in game and 90 on the base and it's about what it was before. Those that were running super high numbers pre 1.49 won't be able to get back there, unfortunately for them.
Oh thanks for the explanation I have the same Logitech wheel and didn't realize where the vibration setting was located now I do so I'll tinker with that as my true Force has pretty much disappeared and I'm at 100 on the wheel so I imagine I'm pretty low on the regular settings
Thank you very much. It helped me a lot. I bought a sim rig 2 months ago and have been playing with the old settings until now. Your settings are compared to the old ones as if I were sitting in a real car. Suddenly I feel that the car is doing something under me.👍Thank you
Really enjoyed the video Z! I have a TGT II. Lot's of us Thrustmaster users still and would love to see a stream where you bust out the ol' TGT, and refine your settings under the new update. Cheers buddy!
Love my T-GT II. So yeah, would also love to hear peoples GT7 settings on their T-GT II. I’m currently running Force: 4 Sensitivity: 10 (force considerably went up for T-GT II after the 1.50 update and noticed a lot of clipping above 4 - open wheel cars however need Force cranked up to 7). Also had to turn Vibration down to 100. I also noticed much better overall force feedback after the update. Much better communication of the road feel. Feels closer to the excellent forced feedback feel in Assetto CC.
That vibration setting has restored the ffb, it was gone completely from my DDpro 5nm just horrible vibration in the corner rattling the omega stand. Thank you
Thank you so much for doing this video. I also run the Podium from Fanatec and everyone else online has the DD Pros, etc. so thank you very much for taking time to show the settings and driving/braking tips.
If I ever get the time, I need to brush up on my wheel, and pedal settings myself. Thanks for the tips! It's good to see you do an instructional / advice video again. You changed your logo too, nice!
@@atrain132 Whoa! I hope the family stuff isn’t too serious. We all go through drama. I’ve been busy this week myself. It also doesn’t help being so tired after work lol.
@@Z28Gaming it's a rough one, but we'll get through it. I'm actually having to quit my job and come back home which would be great for me. I agree, being tired when you come home sucks. Makes me not want to sit up the racing games and play them. However, that doesn't mean I'll still drop kick you all over the place in Tekken...
thanks for this video. I’ll try these tips when I get home tonight. I was on last night on race C and only made it around the track 2 or 3 times in a hour of running. It’s like I was on ice. I’ll try these tips and reload your video this evening. I have a DD pro 8NM.
I use a moza r5 and after trying this settings the wheel feels much better and stronger the only thing is that I would like to have more detail. Thanks man
Wow Z!!! Thanks again! Perfect. Just what I needed. I’m stating a 6 week series this weekend. This will help. There’s definitely a difference between the DD1 and the DD Pro. I’m in between a few settings.
@@Z28Gaming the fanatec dd pro is my first faceted wheel. However, I can definitely tell you that settings from the dd1 don’t translate to the dd pro. PlayStation says that the auto setting is perfect for Gran Turismo seven. They are wrong. The auto setting is horrible. I like taking your settings and then just smoothing them out myself. It work great.
@@riszser I’m not surprised since the wheels are so different. I’m curious if the dd extreme will be similar settings wise. Definitely don’t listen to Sony lol. Manual rotation is always better in my opinion. Otherwise certain cars seem off. It’s weird.
Just came across this video. Excellent information and will try the settings later today, you just got another Sub. Looking forward to watching more of your content. Thank you.
'A' driver. For fun I copied your settings, only thing I changed was FFB to 32 instead of 23 (to compensate for my 8nm compared to yours). And BRF to 55... Within 15mins I bested my PB by .600 seconds. I immediately didn't like the feel, felt like a toy, didn't feel realistic. But I've gotta say, I feel like I have a better control of car. A lot of the useless information is filtered out and isn't blotting out important information. I think I might use these settings as my baseline and tinker with them. Thank you for video.
New to your channel, appreciate the no bs mode! I have dd pro and BMW v2 flat bottom wheel. I was running Sen at 540 and recently moved up to 600 as my 100th attempt at changing something to reduce violent oscillations. Based on another person with your level of experience, he said put FFB at 100 to allow maximum headroom for the base to use, and dial down the game, currently at 6 and 8. I will try the first vibration thing you talked about, I didn’t think that was for the wheel. The oscillations are frightening right now when going straight. I have changed EVERYTHING on the wheel multiple times to no effect.
Update- The vibration setting was on 140, I went to zero, no effect on the wheel at all. I turned my (wheel) Ffb to 50 and the oscillations are better but still there, I like a heavier wheel though 💁🏻♂️
@@jsanders299 It gets confusing when you like the wheel heavier. I really think in game torque at 10 is the best way to go and adjust FFB force on the base to your liking. I’m starting to think different bases feel slightly different from one another. I may try a DD Extreme.
The game will send out less FFB if you reduce the torque in game. So theoretically that means the feedback coming from the base will be artificial. (My opinion) I noticed that the FFB feels incredibly odd when I do it this way. Almost like it’s harder to turn. Like you’re driving without power steering.
Ok so tried these today. Obviously everyone gets used to whatever. But these felt terrible me 😂 same exact setup you have. I’d be curious what you think of mine. I’ve spent the last few days getting them dialed and they’re as good as they’re getting. PD broke the ffb in this update if you’ve tried gr1 or super formula. But we’ll see after they fix that. But for now, these settings feel as close to the real thing as I’ve gotten. SEN 550 is 1:1 in car cockpit to diameter of this f1 wheel (set to your liking) FFB 50 (set to your liking) FFS peak NDP 50 NFR 5 NIN 20 INT 3 FEI 100 FOR 100 SPR 100 DPR 100 SHO on MPS auto BRF 45 (set to your liking) In game Force feedback max torque 9 Force feedback sensitivity 7 Unfortunately ffb is wildly different car to car now so that gets adjusted on a car to car basis now and can range anywhere from 30-75 lol
Right, most of the issue people is having is because they are still driving like the old physics and not taking the time to learn again, thanks Z, using DD Pro I'm using the auto s that PD recommended, and they feel great.
i like your approach to GT7 videos. NO BS, to the point, and you don't sound douchee. Everyone else pretending to be newscasters or QVC salesman raising the volume of the last syllable of each word. i hate that. also not trying to push some garbage VPN or the latest wheel/pedals and socks! yes, there are GT7 RUclipsr's selling fck'ing socks EDIT: the red dot is the G meter
Some great tips on braking, thanks for that although I prefer to use less force in game I think I'm maybe at 6 or 7 at most. Having said that I use some damper as well but I don't like to be wrestling with the wheel especially as real life cars you don't with power steering. You are no doubt a hell of a lot faster than me though so my word on anything 😂 I'm definitely going to be trying the brake tips though. Thank you.✌️😎
I don't have a Thrustmaster, Logitech, or Fanatec wheel. All I have is a PS4 controller. I don't have a direct drive base or a belt driven system. I don't know what force feedback max torque and sensitivity settings I should adjust. Should I set the max torque and sensitivity to 5 or 0? I need help.
@@cheeseburger3209 What do you mean by that? I can adjust them. I use my PS4 Controller to steer the car. What else do you expect me to do since I don't have force feedback?
@@cheeseburger3209 I guess I should set them to 0 then since you told me I don't have force feedback because I don't have a Fanatec or a Thrustmaster steering wheel.
@@speedtracker9556 it literally won't make any difference what ever you do. Force feedback is the force that the wheel pushes back with when you are in the turns. It isn't the vibration from the road surface. If you are using a dual shock controller you will get vibration - Which, again ill stress, is Not force feedback.
Hello from Greece, for dd pro 8nm new update feels weird, at least for me!! Still playing with wheel settings and sometimes with loadcell adjusment for the sweet spot for abs but nothing yet.Usually i was half second of top10 after update add laf more so somethin am missing...
Z you Legend can once again share your DD1 set If I can remember it was Sens 400 to 700,ffb 35 and all the rest off,is that right? Am sure i still got them on my DD1
Iv got thrustmaster tx wheel and the force feedback has horrible vibration when i hit the kerbs even on the lowest force feedback settings.other than that i love the new physics
Yeah, you should 100% be able to play online. I’ve never heard of someone using a ps4 disc on a ps5 for gt7 though. However, it doesn’t matter. If the game boots, you should be able to play online with no issues.
Back in GT Sport I ran 3-2 on my t300rs. It sounds like we have similar taste. Ever since I got a direct drive base I moved to high sensitivity. It made me faster for reasons hard to explain. Different wheels can change the ffb entirely.
@@b4ds33d My Fanatec couldn’t handle it. I actually just broke my current rim after this video. I have to hold it together, but the left side has fallen apart.
I would advise everyone to fiddle with the SEN settings regardless of driver rating. I currently have it on 480. That gave me so much more control of the car. (911).
The first setting does, yes. I also have a TGT and tried it. However, only use it if you want some vibration in your cockpit for immersion. Personally, I don’t think it adds any “necessary” FFB. If you have a TGT, just use it if you like it. I kept this off in GT Sport and know others who did as well in the finals.
@@fantasy1850 It’s a type of wheel base. You have direct drive and belt driven wheels. Basically direct drive bases offer improved power, responsiveness and detail. If you’re looking into getting a wheel for racing, direct drive would be the way to go.
@@fantasy1850 It doesn’t make a difference. Still, a direct drive wheel is the way to go. I Definitely suggest a circular rim instead of an f1 style for drifting. You’ll also want an e-brake. Using a button will be frustrating. Fanatec has some nice accessories for this.
FFB settings should be the complete opposite of what you said mate, if you have a wheel with settings use more of those and turn down in-game ffb settings, the in-game settings are for wheels that don't have separate wheel settings. Obviously it can be subjective to a degree but High ffb on the wheel and low in-game settings is what is recommended by Fanatec themselves, it's so you don't get any unwanted effects that could damage the wheel.
I’ve seen those settings from Fanatec. Personally, I’m about 0.5-1 second slower. I have 5 different profiles and this one is my favorite with 1.49. Keep in mind those Fanatec recommend settings are old and of course FFB is different for everyone. Do what you think is best. 😎
@@Z28Gaming Your videos on this type of thing is interesting and wasn't meant to be a criticism, it's what is written in the instructions of Fanatecs products, its not specific to GT in particular, it applies to all sim games and I'm assuming this guidance is still in each manual for every Fanstec wheel / base and tbh I've never known if the settings I actually use are good I just go with the feel based on the guidance , I think in the Fanstec forum they have recommended settings for each wheel and mine aren't anything like what they recommend for my CSL Elite which is like 6 years old now 🤣
You could get away with that before the update because the brakes would rotate you but that's not how brakes work in reality. If you brake 100% with any kind of brakes you're going to go in a straight line.
Good stuff, Z.
Word to those running a Logi GPro wheel, recommend upping the vibration settings to 150, then adjusting on the wheel base as required. The update 1.49 Nerfed the Trueforce and this will help get it back... or at least get closer.
I use 125 in game vibration and 35 tf audio on the wheel base. Anymore than that is ridiculous. How people run 150/100 baffles me. Surely you can't even feel the actual ffb with it vibrating like a sex toy constantly
@@King_Ears Before 1.49 I was running 100 in game and 40 on the base. Post 1.49 I am at 145 in game and 90 on the base and it's about what it was before. Those that were running super high numbers pre 1.49 won't be able to get back there, unfortunately for them.
That's still crazy high imo but it's down to personal preference @@Talon167
Pre update i was 35/35 and that was enough for me otherwise it drowned out the wheel ffb and felt unnatural
Oh thanks for the explanation I have the same Logitech wheel and didn't realize where the vibration setting was located now I do so I'll tinker with that as my true Force has pretty much disappeared and I'm at 100 on the wheel so I imagine I'm pretty low on the regular settings
Thank you very much. It helped me a lot. I bought a sim rig 2 months ago and have been playing with the old settings until now. Your settings are compared to the old ones as if I were sitting in a real car. Suddenly I feel that the car is doing something under me.👍Thank you
@@emil11223 You’re welcome! I’m glad they helped. 💪🏼🏁
Really enjoyed the video Z! I have a TGT II. Lot's of us Thrustmaster users still and would love to see a stream where you bust out the ol' TGT, and refine your settings under the new update. Cheers buddy!
Agree would be super helpful thanks
Love my T-GT II. So yeah, would also love to hear peoples GT7 settings on their T-GT II. I’m currently running Force: 4 Sensitivity: 10 (force considerably went up for T-GT II after the 1.50 update and noticed a lot of clipping above 4 - open wheel cars however need Force cranked up to 7). Also had to turn Vibration down to 100.
I also noticed much better overall force feedback after the update. Much better communication of the road feel. Feels closer to the excellent forced feedback feel in Assetto CC.
@@loudgtr9711 This is actually a good idea since my Fanatec rim is broken lol.
That vibration setting has restored the ffb, it was gone completely from my DDpro 5nm just horrible vibration in the corner rattling the omega stand. Thank you
Thank you so much for doing this video. I also run the Podium from Fanatec and everyone else online has the DD Pros, etc. so thank you very much for taking time to show the settings and driving/braking tips.
If I ever get the time, I need to brush up on my wheel, and pedal settings myself. Thanks for the tips! It's good to see you do an instructional / advice video again. You changed your logo too, nice!
@@atrain132 Have you played at all since the update? The game feels a lot better now.
@@Z28Gaming not at all my man. I have had zero time between work, and family crap going on. Haven't played since Easter
@@atrain132 Whoa! I hope the family stuff isn’t too serious. We all go through drama. I’ve been busy this week myself. It also doesn’t help being so tired after work lol.
@@Z28Gaming it's a rough one, but we'll get through it. I'm actually having to quit my job and come back home which would be great for me. I agree, being tired when you come home sucks. Makes me not want to sit up the racing games and play them.
However, that doesn't mean I'll still drop kick you all over the place in Tekken...
@@atrain132 Why is it great that you get to come home? Are we seeing some potential racing future for atrain? 😎
thanks for this video. I’ll try these tips when I get home tonight. I was on last night on race C and only made it around the track 2 or 3 times in a hour of running. It’s like I was on ice. I’ll try these tips and reload your video this evening. I have a DD pro 8NM.
Try breaking earlier than you‘re used to until you get comfortable with the update
Z, this community misses you. Great video. One of the goats 100%. Thank you 😊
420th like 😅
@@AutoJoeGT I appreciate it 💪🏼🏁
I use a moza r5 and after trying this settings the wheel feels much better and stronger the only thing is that I would like to have more detail. Thanks man
@@santiagoivanmagana4859 No problem, I’m glad it helped 💪🏼🏁
this was great. no fluff, straight to business. This is going to help me significantly. Thank you, keep them coming.
I appreciate the comment. 💪🏼 No reason to waste anybody’s time 😎🏁
Great video, concise but packed with info, massively appreciated Z. Thanks bud.
I appreciate it Smokey 😎🏁
Wow Z!!! Thanks again! Perfect. Just what I needed. I’m stating a 6 week series this weekend. This will help.
There’s definitely a difference between the DD1 and the DD Pro. I’m in between a few settings.
@@riszser I’m considering how much of a difference the DD1 is vs the DD Extreme. Some people say it’s more responsive.
@@Z28Gaming the fanatec dd pro is my first faceted wheel. However, I can definitely tell you that settings from the dd1 don’t translate to the dd pro. PlayStation says that the auto setting is perfect for Gran Turismo seven. They are wrong. The auto setting is horrible. I like taking your settings and then just smoothing them out myself. It work great.
@@riszser I’m not surprised since the wheels are so different. I’m curious if the dd extreme will be similar settings wise. Definitely don’t listen to Sony lol. Manual rotation is always better in my opinion. Otherwise certain cars seem off. It’s weird.
I already took your advice. For the DD pro. I made everything 10-10 in game. And lowered my force feedback on the wheel.
Thanks for the vibration advice. I never know what to do with those things.
Excellent tips, cheers for that one. Interesting tune, I'll have a go at your settings on the DD Pro.
Let me know! I’ve always been a fan of high in game settings and reduced FFB on the base. I hope you like it 🏆🏁
Thank you for taking time to share these tips!
@@TimDenton You’re welcome 💪🏼😎
Thank you Z.. you explain very clear and easy.. thank you for guide. massive thank you Z my brother.
cheers
@@monkeyming3496 You’re very welcome 😎💪🏼
Outstanding video. straight to the point and very informative.
Thank you! I appreciate the comment 😎🏆
Coach Z back to making coaching vids.....woooohoooo!! Learners gonna love it!!
TH300 GT user here. Im actually digging the new update. Doing 2.03s on this weeks DR3
DR - B SR - A
Just came across this video. Excellent information and will try the settings later today, you just got another Sub. Looking forward to watching more of your content. Thank you.
Enjoying your stuff my friend, great to see you live stream often :D
Needed this! The brake part hit me hard… thank you Z! See u in there💪🏻
Man im a novice using a controller and I have noticed the having to let off the brakes and turn great information!!!
'A' driver. For fun I copied your settings, only thing I changed was FFB to 32 instead of 23 (to compensate for my 8nm compared to yours). And BRF to 55... Within 15mins I bested my PB by .600 seconds.
I immediately didn't like the feel, felt like a toy, didn't feel realistic. But I've gotta say, I feel like I have a better control of car. A lot of the useless information is filtered out and isn't blotting out important information. I think I might use these settings as my baseline and tinker with them.
Thank you for video.
@@BishopRealTalk98 I know it feels weird, but it’s definitely the way to go for speed 😎
Take it from me, a D driver - these tips worked!
@@PhpGtr Glad to hear 🏆😎
Just switching from AUTO Sensitivity to 490 took me from a 151.2 to a 150.9 at Trial Mountain!
That’s great to hear! This is exactly what I want to see!! 🏆🏆🏆
Great video Z! Appreciate the insight!
You’re welcome! Thanks for stopping by, it’s appreciated 🏁
G29 player I was 5/5 before update. I'm now 6/7 for the same feel
New to your channel, appreciate the no bs mode!
I have dd pro and BMW v2 flat bottom wheel.
I was running Sen at 540 and recently moved up to 600 as my 100th attempt at changing something to reduce violent oscillations.
Based on another person with your level of experience, he said put FFB at 100 to allow maximum headroom for the base to use, and dial down the game, currently at 6 and 8.
I will try the first vibration thing you talked about, I didn’t think that was for the wheel.
The oscillations are frightening right now when going straight. I have changed EVERYTHING on the wheel multiple times to no effect.
Update- The vibration setting was on 140, I went to zero, no effect on the wheel at all. I turned my (wheel) Ffb to 50 and the oscillations are better but still there, I like a heavier wheel though 💁🏻♂️
@@jsanders299 It gets confusing when you like the wheel heavier. I really think in game torque at 10 is the best way to go and adjust FFB force on the base to your liking. I’m starting to think different bases feel slightly different from one another. I may try a DD Extreme.
Whats the difference between running in game force feedback at 10 like you do and the wheel lower, or wheel at 100 and in game at 2 or 3?
The game will send out less FFB if you reduce the torque in game. So theoretically that means the feedback coming from the base will be artificial. (My opinion) I noticed that the FFB feels incredibly odd when I do it this way. Almost like it’s harder to turn. Like you’re driving without power steering.
Ok so tried these today. Obviously everyone gets used to whatever. But these felt terrible me 😂 same exact setup you have. I’d be curious what you think of mine. I’ve spent the last few days getting them dialed and they’re as good as they’re getting. PD broke the ffb in this update if you’ve tried gr1 or super formula. But we’ll see after they fix that. But for now, these settings feel as close to the real thing as I’ve gotten.
SEN 550 is 1:1 in car cockpit to diameter of this f1 wheel (set to your liking)
FFB 50 (set to your liking)
FFS peak
NDP 50
NFR 5
NIN 20
INT 3
FEI 100
FOR 100
SPR 100
DPR 100
SHO on
MPS auto
BRF 45 (set to your liking)
In game
Force feedback max torque 9
Force feedback sensitivity 7
Unfortunately ffb is wildly different car to car now so that gets adjusted on a car to car basis now and can range anywhere from 30-75 lol
Very helpful video, thank you for making it!
@@greatappledates2167 You’re welcome 💪🏼😎
Right, most of the issue people is having is because they are still driving like the old physics and not taking the time to learn again, thanks Z, using DD Pro I'm using the auto s that PD recommended, and they feel great.
i like your approach to GT7 videos. NO BS, to the point, and you don't sound douchee. Everyone else pretending to be newscasters or QVC salesman raising the volume of the last syllable of each word. i hate that. also not trying to push some garbage VPN or the latest wheel/pedals and socks! yes, there are GT7 RUclipsr's selling fck'ing socks
EDIT: the red dot is the G meter
@@TecraTube I appreciate the comment 💪🏼 Yeah, that’s the goal. I’m tired of it the same way you are. Being a salesman was never my line of work.
Some great tips on braking, thanks for that although I prefer to use less force in game I think I'm maybe at 6 or 7 at most. Having said that I use some damper as well but I don't like to be wrestling with the wheel especially as real life cars you don't with power steering. You are no doubt a hell of a lot faster than me though so my word on anything 😂 I'm definitely going to be trying the brake tips though. Thank you.✌️😎
Hopefully they worked out for you. Everyone has different taste! I suppose my style could be a bit odd to some, haha! 💪🏼🏆
@@Z28Gaming I have noticed that since the update you have to change the FFB settings a lot more depending on the car.
Im using the Logitech G Pro. I went from 11NM to 8.5 NM. Trueforce at 100%.
thanks bro now i am a monster on gt7!
Thanks for the detailed information Z.
You're a beast. Thanks for the tips.
My G29 wheel feels like every car oversteers and I can’t correct oversteer the car just spins out and it’s even worse in the road cars
Not having a problem on a standard PS5 controller - is it affecting wheel users more do you think?
I turned off all the vibration settings off months ago and wow the difference
@@milsom88ify Yeah, it’s huge. Not really too known, but it changes things. 🏆
I gotta say, I use a G27 and if I use anything below 7 torque/sensitivity, there is genuinely nothing being communicated through the steering.
That’s because there is already barely any strength in your wheel
@esvignettes7592 oh I'm well aware. Just giving advice because he suggested to set cheaper wheels to 5, which I personally think is too low.
I don't have a Thrustmaster, Logitech, or Fanatec wheel. All I have is a PS4 controller. I don't have a direct drive base or a belt driven system. I don't know what force feedback max torque and sensitivity settings I should adjust. Should I set the max torque and sensitivity to 5 or 0? I need help.
You dont have force feedback dude
@@cheeseburger3209
What do you mean by that? I can adjust them. I use my PS4 Controller to steer the car. What else do you expect me to do since I don't have force feedback?
@@speedtracker9556 those things aren't relevant to the controller. You can adjust the settings but it won't do anything to your gaming experience.
@@cheeseburger3209
I guess I should set them to 0 then since you told me I don't have force feedback because I don't have a Fanatec or a Thrustmaster steering wheel.
@@speedtracker9556 it literally won't make any difference what ever you do. Force feedback is the force that the wheel pushes back with when you are in the turns. It isn't the vibration from the road surface. If you are using a dual shock controller you will get vibration - Which, again ill stress, is Not force feedback.
thanks for another great video, Z
@@Sandstorming99 I appreciate the comment and hope that you’re well 😎💪🏼
Awesome video thank you! Now a subscriber👍
Lift, down shift and turn last I'll keep I agree that technique there should be sufficient enough.❤
Hello from Greece, for dd pro 8nm new update feels weird, at least for me!! Still playing with wheel settings and sometimes with loadcell adjusment for the sweet spot for abs but nothing yet.Usually i was half second of top10 after update add laf more so somethin am missing...
Thanks for the tips again Z❤
great tips. Thanks buddy !
The video I needed!!! Thx Z
Any controller settings for duel scese edge or gyro using the controller not a wheel
Z you Legend can once again share your DD1 set
If I can remember it was Sens 400 to 700,ffb 35 and all the rest off,is that right?
Am sure i still got them on my DD1
I did all the things i can do, but after the update force feedback is almost gone. Bumps from other cars its completely gone😡😞
@@marcogi What wheel base do you have?
@@Z28Gaming g29
Iv got thrustmaster tx wheel and the force feedback has horrible vibration when i hit the kerbs even on the lowest force feedback settings.other than that i love the new physics
Thanks a lot for this video appreciate it a lot
Thank You Sir!
You are living proof that Boomers still provide a useful service to the world!
Thanks Z!
He's not a boomer. Boomers are over 60... LOL.
Oh? He's younger than he looks then!
You're an autist@@GoofylookinHippy
hey i have a ps5 with the disc. is it not possible to play online with this? i have the ps4 game with the ps5 if that makes a difference
Yeah, you should 100% be able to play online. I’ve never heard of someone using a ps4 disc on a ps5 for gt7 though. However, it doesn’t matter. If the game boots, you should be able to play online with no issues.
I didnt think you could use a podium on PS5. How do you know if it will work on PS5. I didnt know it was licensed by PS.
T300RS, 4/2. Was 3/2 before 1.49. I feel cranking sensitivity past 2 adds too much artificial centering which dulls the details (clipping).
Back in GT Sport I ran 3-2 on my t300rs. It sounds like we have similar taste. Ever since I got a direct drive base I moved to high sensitivity. It made me faster for reasons hard to explain. Different wheels can change the ffb entirely.
Keep in mind that the 20Nm of the DD1 are peak torque whereas the DD Extreme/DD+ has 15Nm consistent meaning they are really about the same.
Great video Z!
Thanks Z , Ill try abs on weak .
Steering wheel vibrates?
Update for t300 is out
I have a Simagic Ultimate WB. I run all strength settings to max, it increases the challenge.
@@b4ds33d My Fanatec couldn’t handle it. I actually just broke my current rim after this video. I have to hold it together, but the left side has fallen apart.
Does the sensitivity really feel better on 5 now?
@@Trext. 5 or 10 is fine with sensitivity. Personally I think it’s better to use it.
i wish you would get straight to the point mate. 👍😂😂😂
i wish you would fast foward. also, he's just explaining things. if he doesnt explain things, then some people like myself wouldnt understand.
The Blue Angels just "flew" overhead.
@@youtubeisracistx , Obviously you don't understand sarcasm, It was a joke English speaking folk will understand.
Lol so true @theoneandonlygus1
@@LVP444 , 😀
I would advise everyone to fiddle with the SEN settings regardless of driver rating. I currently have it on 480. That gave me so much more control of the car. (911).
But must be changed for every car?
@@MarkNOTW That is totally up to you. I tried the daily race A and for the alpha 480 was too much it was easy to notice and it is a quick fix anyway.
@@tepa307 thanks
But doesn’t that increase the bass transducer on the GT TGT2 base
I crank it up before the update for full cockpit vibration. I will do some tests
The first setting does, yes. I also have a TGT and tried it. However, only use it if you want some vibration in your cockpit for immersion. Personally, I don’t think it adds any “necessary” FFB. If you have a TGT, just use it if you like it. I kept this off in GT Sport and know others who did as well in the finals.
may need more tracks: could go over there
You cant change the wheel rotation on the g923 which hurts lol
Good Stuff, No faffing just get into it and explain!
@@daniekruger5583 I appreciate the comment 💪🏼😎
No power down for updates on ps5
I like the video bro
Thank you! I appreciate that 💪🏼😎🏆
i'm plus 2.33 seconds on AI hard: mercedes clk lm 98 and had one early wipe out 794 pp now
*added to 'watch later'
for when i get my DD wheel! xd
Well done,I just find them now😂
Thank you!!!
There are millions of people who use the pad to play and have done for decades, but they don't matter
Of course they do! Pad players have made the big stage at the world finals multiple times!!
Top tips
the NSX GT 500 2000 ----and move upt to Ford GT race car 18: PP 781
1.9 whatever this is: 3 - 5 years...not sure if i need gummy or not
Gt racing not available in US. Esport title
Sweet as a nut mate, gg's 👌👏.
Like deployed 👍
😎🎙🏎✅️
Good vid 👍🏻
Can u show your e brake please
@@Gt7stiggy What?
@@Z28Gaming it looked like u had a handbrake an gearbox
puts me at: GR3. PP 767.52 - RM High RPM Turbo: Fully CUstomizable Tramsission: AI HARD...moving up
Gt7 skin ps+ only ????
This vid saved me from rippin my hair out ty😂🎉
Thank you
For alternative games to gt7
Brands Hatch: GR3: Maybe so
vs ACC on PS5?????
Thanks
😎🏆
what is direct drive ?
@@fantasy1850 It’s a type of wheel base. You have direct drive and belt driven wheels. Basically direct drive bases offer improved power, responsiveness and detail. If you’re looking into getting a wheel for racing, direct drive would be the way to go.
@@Z28Gaming what about drifting? what should i buy?
@@fantasy1850 It doesn’t make a difference. Still, a direct drive wheel is the way to go. I Definitely suggest a circular rim instead of an f1 style for drifting. You’ll also want an e-brake. Using a button will be frustrating. Fanatec has some nice accessories for this.
FFB settings should be the complete opposite of what you said mate, if you have a wheel with settings use more of those and turn down in-game ffb settings, the in-game settings are for wheels that don't have separate wheel settings.
Obviously it can be subjective to a degree but High ffb on the wheel and low in-game settings is what is recommended by Fanatec themselves, it's so you don't get any unwanted effects that could damage the wheel.
I’ve seen those settings from Fanatec. Personally, I’m about 0.5-1 second slower. I have 5 different profiles and this one is my favorite with 1.49. Keep in mind those Fanatec recommend settings are old and of course FFB is different for everyone. Do what you think is best. 😎
@@Z28Gaming Your videos on this type of thing is interesting and wasn't meant to be a criticism, it's what is written in the instructions of Fanatecs products, its not specific to GT in particular, it applies to all sim games and I'm assuming this guidance is still in each manual for every Fanstec wheel / base and tbh I've never known if the settings I actually use are good I just go with the feel based on the guidance , I think in the Fanstec forum they have recommended settings for each wheel and mine aren't anything like what they recommend for my CSL Elite which is like 6 years old now 🤣
You could get away with that before the update because the brakes would rotate you but that's not how brakes work in reality. If you brake 100% with any kind of brakes you're going to go in a straight line.
i'm moving up in bop: ai easy: 16/16....thats dropping