Thanks.... a mechanic here in Illinois wants to charge me an estimate of 700$ in parts and labor. God bless RUclips and of course the guys making this video. 700 is just a starting price.
Highly, highly suggest switching that style of sway bar out for something like the Moog K750159. The combination of rust, red thread lock, and hex socket leads to stripping of the hex very often. I had to cut off my sway bars because the hex sockets stripped out. Not a problem with the Moogs (has a square on the sway bar shaft that a wrench easily fits onto). Otherwise great quick video.
Short, sweet and concise... With torque specs. Love it dude. My stabilizer links I had to grind out due to corrosion. Replaced the driver side outter your rod too. Thanks a bunch. If you're reading this, do you use never-seez on these bolts too?
So basically I can't do this in my parking lot with a jack and jack stands 😩😭. Mechanic: "yeaaaah youre gonna need a whole new everything. I can do it for you march 20th for $1350"
So here’s a good question. At 2:50. What happens when the weld breaks on that nut inside the sub assembly? I’m currently stuck with what to do on mine. Everything came apart great, but now going back together is damn near impossible.
I just had the same thing happen .. This is probably late for you, but if someone else runs into this. I had to cut the frame to open a "window", was not the hard. I cut thru the steel front to back and then went side to side only cutting half way thru. was able to bend down the "flap". Inside the nut is a 21mm. A box end wrench fit nicely. Then was able to unscrew the bolt.
Make sure to get an even coat of penetrating fluid on the brake rotor!.... good vid though, needed to know what bolts to buy, my moog control arms didn't come with any
Hey! Great video. I have a question. I cannot find any videos of replacing ONLY the lower ball joint on 2010 Ford Edge. I’ve done ball joints on other Ford vehicles but not this one so I’m not sure if I have to replace the whole control arm or if I can replace just the lower ball joint. I don’t want to have to remove the whole LCA to change the ball joint. Any help would be appreciated!!!
The lower ball joint is pressed into the control arm and retained with a snap ring. They can be replaced independently of the lower control arm, but you'll likely need to remove the control arm from the vehicle to remove the old and install the new ball joint.
Yup tie rod castle nut is way over torqued and 2 back end bolts for the control arm are over torqued also. He also shouldn't have tightened the stabilizer links by turning the on the bolt, he was suppose to turn the nut only.
@@oleksandrmulyar2350 especially the stabilizer link nuts which have a major tendency of being frozen on. If you use the Allen key to turn it you strip it. It's only used to hold it from spinning. Plus that over torqued rear bolts smh can cause issues later on. Not even going to mention the tie rod castle nut. Pet peeve of mine. Worked on aircraft for to many years and know what over torqued nuts/bolts can do under pressure. I've change my control arms on my 07 Edge 3 times and I've just changed them recently. Last thing you never put Red thread lock on those threads. Red thread lock is for permanent placement not for parts that are to be removed from time to time. He did that on the passenger side video for the lower control arms. Smh
Why is there literally no video's on 2015 and up Ford edge? It's like the 2015 and up don't exist, even the auto part store's struggle to find parts. 🤷
tie rod end nut is 85 pounds in this video but on the other video with the inner tie rod ends he says 35 pound for the tir rod end nut. im 35 is the correct spec
Pretty good videos but the torque specs are off. The castle but for the tire rod is not 85ft pounds it’s 35ft pounds. The two smaller 15mm bolts for the control arm are not 111ft pounds they are actually 58ft pounds. Just as a heads up.
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Thanks.... a mechanic here in Illinois wants to charge me an estimate of 700$ in parts and labor. God bless RUclips and of course the guys making this video. 700 is just a starting price.
Gotta torque those bushing bolts loaded bro or you twist the bushing.
Highly, highly suggest switching that style of sway bar out for something like the Moog K750159. The combination of rust, red thread lock, and hex socket leads to stripping of the hex very often. I had to cut off my sway bars because the hex sockets stripped out. Not a problem with the Moogs (has a square on the sway bar shaft that a wrench easily fits onto).
Otherwise great quick video.
By any chance, what issues lead to the diagnosis of replacement lower control arm
That lower control arm assembly is not under tension from the strut spring?
Short, sweet and concise... With torque specs. Love it dude. My stabilizer links I had to grind out due to corrosion. Replaced the driver side outter your rod too. Thanks a bunch.
If you're reading this, do you use never-seez on these bolts too?
So basically I can't do this in my parking lot with a jack and jack stands 😩😭.
Mechanic: "yeaaaah youre gonna need a whole new everything. I can do it for you march 20th for $1350"
Thank you! that is an excellent video and very helpful.
Thank you so much, It was just what I needed.
perfection,love it
Hi there, why did u torque the control arm bolt with wheel on and weight on it? They say that how it suppose to be done...
what about upper arm?
I'm pretty sure the only upper is a rear... different video
There is no upper control arm on the front because the steering knuckle connects directly to the strut
You are professional man thanks for video
So here’s a good question. At 2:50. What happens when the weld breaks on that nut inside the sub assembly? I’m currently stuck with what to do on mine. Everything came apart great, but now going back together is damn near impossible.
I just had the same thing happen .. This is probably late for you, but if someone else runs into this. I had to cut the frame to open a "window", was not the hard. I cut thru the steel front to back and then went side to side only cutting half way thru. was able to bend down the "flap". Inside the nut is a 21mm. A box end wrench fit nicely. Then was able to unscrew the bolt.
@@por356s thanks. Thats pretty much what i suspected but you confirmed it. Stupid ass design
Make sure to get an even coat of penetrating fluid on the brake rotor!.... good vid though, needed to know what bolts to buy, my moog control arms didn't come with any
So what do I do when the bolt on the back of the sub frame just free spins
The upper nut is tack-welded on. You can take the wheel well skirt off to gain access, so you can hold that nut if the tac-weld fails.
Where are u located at sir
I can not get those 2 bolts to lineup! And yours slid in way easier! Had to force mine in wait a hammer
2013 Ford EXPLOYER limited 3.5l replace CV joint boot I have a 1/16 whole or can I repair
Great Video!! Thank You
Hey! Great video. I have a question. I cannot find any videos of replacing ONLY the lower ball joint on 2010 Ford Edge. I’ve done ball joints on other Ford vehicles but not this one so I’m not sure if I have to replace the whole control arm or if I can replace just the lower ball joint. I don’t want to have to remove the whole LCA to change the ball joint. Any help would be appreciated!!!
The lower ball joint is pressed into the control arm and retained with a snap ring. They can be replaced independently of the lower control arm, but you'll likely need to remove the control arm from the vehicle to remove the old and install the new ball joint.
Is an alignment required after this repair?
YES!
Why does tie rod have to come out if U got control arm out without disconnecting it?
+FU420B Thanks for watching! We went a bit out of order in this video, but yes you will want to disconnect the outer tie rod.
do you have to the tie rod off?
Yup should of got end links. To the store again
You said tie rod nut is torqued to 85ft lbs in this video.
Then you said 35ft lbs in your tie rod installation video.
The torque spects are different. For tie-rod end only 35 instead of 85, and 2 vertical bolts 59 instead of 111.
Yup tie rod castle nut is way over torqued and 2 back end bolts for the control arm are over torqued also. He also shouldn't have tightened the stabilizer links by turning the on the bolt, he was suppose to turn the nut only.
BIG DAWG exactly.
@@oleksandrmulyar2350 especially the stabilizer link nuts which have a major tendency of being frozen on. If you use the Allen key to turn it you strip it. It's only used to hold it from spinning. Plus that over torqued rear bolts smh can cause issues later on. Not even going to mention the tie rod castle nut. Pet peeve of mine. Worked on aircraft for to many years and know what over torqued nuts/bolts can do under pressure. I've change my control arms on my 07 Edge 3 times and I've just changed them recently. Last thing you never put Red thread lock on those threads. Red thread lock is for permanent placement not for parts that are to be removed from time to time. He did that on the passenger side video for the lower control arms. Smh
Why is there literally no video's on 2015 and up Ford edge? It's like the 2015 and up don't exist, even the auto part store's struggle to find parts. 🤷
tie rod end nut is 85 pounds in this video but on the other video with the inner tie rod ends he says 35 pound for the tir rod end nut. im 35 is the correct spec
Several comments here and 0 replies...you have to torque all 3 bolts ln lca under load.
Pretty good videos but the torque specs are off. The castle but for the tire rod is not 85ft pounds it’s 35ft pounds. The two smaller 15mm bolts for the control arm are not 111ft pounds they are actually 58ft pounds. Just as a heads up.
I got the long one fine
Viewed 5-31-2021