I did this job on my 2005 Siena with 240000. The oil was a little pink with some black spots. I started reclaiming the situation when I noticed the oil had a burnt smell. I drained it, refilled, drove for 3 months, drained and refilled, and them removed the pan and refilled. The van shifts more smoothly, although it had no problems. There are two nuts which will annoy you to death, but my son got them out, and we cleaned the pan, the magnets, replaced the trans fluid with oem. It is a $500 to $800 job depending on what and how much moonshine your dealership drinks and what the mechanic smokes, so I did it myself, and bought some tools as consolation. I did the same for my 2000 Avalon with 283000 miles, and also changed the valve cover gaskets on the van, sienna, and my 1992 manual trans Camry with 300000 also. Not as hard as people say really. Worth the money and time. Shopping for the tools and knowing you did it right. . . priceless!
For those who want a complete fluid exchange vs an approx 40% pan exchange: 1.) Remove the plastic shield under the front of the vehicle. Note, new assorted plastic push-clips are recommended. 2.) The radiator cooler transmission fluid out-fall is on the drivers side approx 3/4" OD, 3/8" ID rubber hose with spring clasp clamp. 3.) Disconnect the hose and attach an extension line to a translucent 1gal jug in an catch pan (for overflow/spills). 4.) The steel return line may drip into a second catch pan. 5.) Snuggly attach a clear extension line to the dip-stick tube with a funnel. (I inserted a clear plastic kitchen "baster" keeping the refill level from overflowing at top of the "baster"/funnel). 6.) Start the engine and put in gear (automatic) until approx 1/2 gal OLD is collected and turn off engine. 7.) Fill approx 1/2 gal NEW. 8.) Repeat for approx 2 1/2 gals until bright pink is dispensing. 9.) Reattach radiator/trans Return line. 10.) Adjust fluid level to the low side of the "Cold" mark on dip-stick (so you can top-off to the Hot mark). 11.) Drive vehicle until transmission is up to approx 115 deg. F and adjust fluid level to "Hot" mark. 12.) Reattach the plastic shield using new plastic push-pins. 13.) This should replace the trans, torque converter, and radiator cooler with All New fluid. Happy motoring!
I had a 2007 Tundra that had the sealed transmission. I "exchanged" the fluid by draining the pan (4q), refilling it (4q), then I pinned the transmission cooler open, disconnected the return line and put it a bucket. I would then start the truck run it through PND12 and back to park all within 45 seconds. That was the time it took to pump out 4 quarts. I repeated that 3 times to ensure all of the old fluid was removed. I did that every 100k and had absolutely no transmission issues. Overkill? Not for me. Keep up the good work my friend.
@cisa93 No I did not. All my research said that it was a metal screen and did not need to be replaced. That was also the consensus of TundraTalk. So I just exchanged the fluid.
I just did this procedure, plus dropping the pan and replacing the filters on my 2009 Camry (2AZFE) with 90,000 miles and 2007 Highlander (3MZFE) with 214,000 miles. It was an interesting experience. I broke one of the trans pan bolts on the Camry and had to drill it out, and use a helicoil insert to fix it. That was also quite the interesting experience. All in all, I am glad I have taken up fixing/maintaining my cars as a hobby. Thanks for your videos, you have helped me in my learning experience.
@@YodaPala It is possible but you need a special type of wrench to do it. GEARWRENCH 10mm 12 Point XL GearBox Double Box Ratcheting Wrench - 85910. Search up this wrench on Amazon or elsewhere. This wrench will allow you to get between the frame and the pan and it will allow you to access the pan bolt over the stupid lip that is on the pan. The non-ratcheting end sticks up just enough to allow you to reach the bolt. If you have more questions, feel free to ask me. best of luck
Great effort in making this vide and great advice to those who don't know.I changed my ATF on my 2002 Yaris at 70k (70,000 miles) with the proper stuff,Toyota type 4 £36 about from the main dealer itself.It still drives and shifts lovely & smooth today 7 yrs on and i had my vehicle for 12 yrs.Look after the fluids ie check often and change often and your car will it'll look after you and save you money.The AFT should be replaced every 50k (50,000) because most of drivers do it leave it in D (Drive) rather than N (Neutral) in busy traffic when we stop which is a hard habit to change and the AFT will degrade quicker that way.Respect from the UK.
I totally agree with you on the need to replace/flush the trans fluid. My question is on the differential fluid whose drain plug is often behind the trans drain plug. Do we ever need to replace the differential fluid? The newer toyota cars have separate differential and trans drain plugs while sharing the same fill entrance. The older cars have separate drain and fill plugs.
My check engine light came on near 200k on my '06 Corolla and was told the torque converter was stuck and when mechanic looked at tranny fluid suggested I sell the car.( he just happened to sell used cars also and offered me a '94 Honda Civic he'd worked on through the years for only $4500). At 206k, I drained and filled tranny along with a filter change. Check engine light went off by itself in 200m and now at 209k no slippage, no apparent problem. Will drain, fill and again change filter 2nd time soon as it has mixed well with the dirty remainder but the next job will be done after some 30k miles or as late as 60k miles depending on visual from dipstick.
In-line transmission fluid filter by Wix, Magnefine, or Ford's truck parts department would be a great addition to any automatic transmission; as it can be easily installed in the cooler line yourself with basic hand tools.
That is especially good on vehicles, such as Honda, that you cannot access the transmission filter and they say it isn't a serviceable filter (which is really dumb engineering in my opinion). so the inline filter gives me peace of mind on my hondas
@@chrisryan8863 Most Honda’s have an in-line Transmission filter part # 25430-PLR-003 or 25430PLR003, same #. I bought it at a Honda dealer about 3 years ago for about $20 (with a discount). The parts guy told me there wasn’t one, but when I gave him the part #, he had it in stock and checked that it did fit my 2009 Honda CR-V and it did. It’s installed in-line (in trans cooling line going to the radiator) behind the radiator in front of the engine. Jim PS…..I have seen it sold on ebay, but with many Honda knock off parts, I’m not sure I would buy one. The difference in price is not worth taking the chance that this aftermarket unit might not work or harm the trans (by stopping cooling flow). PPS….on the Honda CR-V I did 3 trans oil changes. First one, than drove it 10 miles, than 2nd one, drove 10 miles, than changed filter and added new trans oil……done!
I have a 2008 rav4 limited and I'm getting a flush today. The fluid is solid black it has 220,000 miles on it. I don't give a damn what the dealership and book says I'm flushing this garbage out of my car and giving it some new fresh transmission fluid!!
I'm curious, a year later, if the *flush* of really old fluid had any long-term effects. At that age, I *might* do a cold drain and fill. Still, scary with most transmissions.
We flush though the trans cooler lines (no machine ) just start, stop and watch fluid drain and then keep filling until clean fluid (measuring along the way)
@@markkus1134 6.9 qts toyota ATF WS I would not use anything else. I would buy 10 qts. YOur first time its going to be a slow processs. YOU DONT HAVE TO CHECK THE level if you put in what you take out (have to be accurate) * remember ATF expands as it gets hot!; however toyota dealerships use this ATF Level Gauge Kit = 10002-00101 buy at OTC static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2013/SB-10061231-2273.pdf
@@markkus1134 Lastly check out this process- long winded since its from a teaching university but very accurate on the process- some of the tools utilized can be made. ruclips.net/video/cNcecuGzTDg/видео.html
My 2010 Rav4 I-4 is at 130K miles and I think I am going to change the trans fluid in it soon. Bought used in 2022 and no history of trans fluid change. Been on the fence as I have read so many say don't change it if it didn't get changed at 60K and a lot of people saying it's ok to change it. Mine is starting to TC shudder so I think I will change out the fluid. Great video my friend!
What does it mean if the transmission fluid smells burnt. I had a rav4 and I did drain and fill 3 times b4 I got. Nice red fluid and no burnt smell. I did not drop the pan or change the filter but I was tempted too.
Wish you would do a video on a 2009 RAV4 PCV Valve. I'm having a hard time finding the location or videos and Toyota even agreeing on location and part number. THIS IS FOR THE 2.5l 4 cylinder.
I dropped the pan and on thr pan inside was a grayish film dirt of carbon etc. I cleaned the inside of the pan and put a new filter and new gasket and put the pan back on. After that the fluid was clean. Prior to doing that I drained and refilled it twice and it still had the grayish hue. But after removing pan and cleaning the pan and putting it back to the the the fluid was clean.
I love this channel. I have had Hondas but recently got a used Corolla and I do a lot of work (especially the fluids) myself on my cars. You mentioned that you do the drain and fill 2x. Do you drive the vehicle first before doing the second drain and fill in order to get the fluid in the torque converter moving around? Also, how do you feel about using a flush machine, rather than a drain and fill? Thank you.
chris ryan use the car for a week or 500 miles then change again, doing it 3-4 times is the same as flushing without harming the inner components of the transmission
If this one has a "rock catcher" strainer, rather than a smaller porosity filter, I would only drop the pan if I needed to fix a leaking pan gasket, but that's me. I would do the drain/fill twice (as the video creator did), with a brief drive in between, if the fluid drain/fill hadn't been done in 50k miles (25k if you tow).
I do the same on mine, but I won't use Toyota WS oil. Use a good full synthetic ATF LV. Flush and fill twice. Drop the pan and replace the strainer filter and clean the magnets occasionally. I do mine every 100k km. Probably overkill, but cheaper than replacing a transmission.
There is nothing wrong with using OEM fluid designed to be used in your Toyota car. The synthetic fluids say "recommended" or "suitable" for use by the oil companys who want to make lots of money. Notice they do not say "approved" by Toyota.
The reason I won't use Toyota WS is because here in Australia you can only buy it from Toyota, and its expensive. I have used Penrite full synthetic ATF LV which says suitable for Toyota WS on the packaging. Not had any issues so far and transmission has 180k km on it currently. Still shifts really smoothly.
It's a good idea to do a drain and fill every 30000 miles that's what I do on my RAV4 I have a 2011 with just about 25,000 miles on it now when it hits 30,000 miles I will drain and fill it with world standard fluid
the manual says to flush every five years , the dipstick says you should not have to add any between changes. It also requires the machine to properly flush the torque converter. My rav4 transmission is very temperamental with its oil and will have trouble shifting in -20 unless It has the oil changed every few years
Great video.. lifetime fluid a kapouie manufactures want consumers to buy a new vehicle every 5 to 7 years I never buy new vehicles they depreciate too much. Thanks 🙏 for sharing
Once one develops an interest in servicing his cars, the perspective is changed. When I paid for my car services, I had no clues what was going with the car, e.g. brake pads etc and I would consider buying a new car as they age. But once I started serving my cars, all I have in my mind is to fix whatever is wrong or parts that need service. So it does not even occur to me often to get a new car. As they say, mechanics always drive old cars.
My gut feeling is if one changes the trans fluid often, the trans fluid filter may stay longer (or forever). However, if the car as shown here had first trans drain-and-replace at 210 miles, the trans filter would probably be better off replaced. I have done both flush and filter change on 98 and 99 Camry that had late (170K and 250K miles) trans fluid change. However, on my 2010 Camry that had first trans fluid drain-and-replace at 100K miles and follow up drain-replace, I am hoping I wouldn't have to change the trans fluid filter.
Did the auto transmission make any noises to indicate a need to replace? I have a Japanese auto Celica year 2000 and I think the transmission is making a worn bearing noise... I am finding it hard to pin point the noise tbh (I had thought it was a tensioner bearing in a belt or something) when I check my fluid it is not terrible , still red but by no means new.
Hello, I have a question, I hope you can help me. I just bought a 2010 rav4 AWD and its making a humming noise around 30mph till 40mph if I let off the throttle noise stops. I think its coming from the transmission area. I read that it's normal on toyotas. Any suggestions?
Hey guy. I have a 2013 Toyota RAV4 with 102,600 miles and no problems at all. In your opinion should I do a drain and fill on the transmission or a drain and flush along with the filter change. Dropping the pan and the whole thing.
La vằn Ù But what if I just bought the car used from someone and that someone changed the oil themselves and improperly refilled the transmission oil and it was under filled. If someone does it this way they’re not putting the correct amount of fluid back in if the fluid isn’t at the correct level before they even started.
Not sure why this statement given by Toyota. But with sealed transmission, less moisture getting in and avoiding user to put wrong transmission fluid in it. But good to replace regularly maybe at 60-80k miles interval. Oil is cheaper than transmission.
While regular changing of ATF fluid is a good idea, when the oil is very old and very dirty a clean change of oil can end up with the gears slipping as the grime was what was keeping the bands binding. Also I just saw a parallel video where they flush the entire system which was comparatively simple, but requires more fluid as you are also removing oil from the torque converter..ruclips.net/video/ntFVCVW-lG8/видео.html
That is quite true. When I did the first trans fluid change on 2010 Camry at 100K miles, the color looks darker red, but not bad. That tells me the first trans fluid drain-replace could probably be done at 150K miles. But I changed regardless as I was ready. That adds about 45% new trans fluid. I would not rush for the next drain-replace.
What, no cleaning the magnets inside or checking the condition of the filter ? Even with new fluid this transmission especially since it had been neglected already is doomed for failure very soon.
Oh ffs you can't possibly know that. I know for a fact mine hasn't been changed for the last 7 years and 80, 000KM at least, and it still shifts buttery smooth. Yes I'm looking forward to changing it soon but it is in no way 'doomed for failure very soon'. And neither is this vehicle. Get a grip fella!
I am Not saying the ATF does not need to be changed, it does! But, the way you were doing the comparison was absolutely unscientific. Personally, I replace the ATF every 30,000 miles then the Toyota filter/strainer every 2nd or 3rd ATF drain/refill (all other fluids, I replace them after the initial break-in period or within the first 3000 miles of the car).
Some techs believe that if you flush old, dirty fluid, it will cause the automatic transmission to slip because the trans get used to the dirty fluid and clean one will cause slippage and require a trans overhaul.
it happens if the fluid is really bad and the thing holding the transmission together was the grit in the fluid. what he did is more of a drain ,refill and drain refill. the real "flush" that can cause issues pumps new fluid and exchanges it with fluid hooked to a machine and sometimes can cause issues. doing it this way is probably the better way then doing a flush with a machine but thats just my 2 cents
No,No, do one on YOUR direction for one WITHOUT the dipstick. By the way, “dipstick” is a way to kind way to describe the Toyota folks who decided we DON’T NEED A DIPSTICK!!!
Their logic is that if there is a transmission service they want the customer to take it a shop and have it serviced. How many times does someone take a vehicle into a shop only needed just one thing fixed. Most of the time there will be additional "recommended" services items. And as a matter of convenience you say go ahead a service it. Just a part of life.
Авто/Мото
I did this job on my 2005 Siena with 240000. The oil was a little pink with some black spots. I started reclaiming the situation when I noticed the oil had a burnt smell. I drained it, refilled, drove for 3 months, drained and refilled, and them removed the pan and refilled. The van shifts more smoothly, although it had no problems. There are two nuts which will annoy you to death, but my son got them out, and we cleaned the pan, the magnets, replaced the trans fluid with oem. It is a $500 to $800 job depending on what and how much moonshine your dealership drinks and what the mechanic smokes, so I did it myself, and bought some tools as consolation. I did the same for my 2000 Avalon with 283000 miles, and also changed the valve cover gaskets on the van, sienna, and my 1992 manual trans Camry with 300000 also. Not as hard as people say really. Worth the money and time. Shopping for the tools and knowing you did it right. . . priceless!
For those who want a complete fluid exchange vs an approx 40% pan exchange:
1.) Remove the plastic shield under the front of the vehicle. Note, new assorted plastic push-clips are recommended.
2.) The radiator cooler transmission fluid out-fall is on the drivers side approx 3/4" OD, 3/8" ID rubber hose with spring clasp clamp.
3.) Disconnect the hose and attach an extension line to a translucent 1gal jug in an catch pan (for overflow/spills).
4.) The steel return line may drip into a second catch pan.
5.) Snuggly attach a clear extension line to the dip-stick tube with a funnel. (I inserted a clear plastic kitchen "baster" keeping the refill level from overflowing at top of the "baster"/funnel).
6.) Start the engine and put in gear (automatic) until approx 1/2 gal OLD is collected and turn off engine.
7.) Fill approx 1/2 gal NEW.
8.) Repeat for approx 2 1/2 gals until bright pink is dispensing.
9.) Reattach radiator/trans Return line.
10.) Adjust fluid level to the low side of the "Cold" mark on dip-stick (so you can top-off to the Hot mark).
11.) Drive vehicle until transmission is up to approx 115 deg. F and adjust fluid level to "Hot" mark.
12.) Reattach the plastic shield using new plastic push-pins.
13.) This should replace the trans, torque converter, and radiator cooler with All New fluid.
Happy motoring!
I had a 2007 Tundra that had the sealed transmission. I "exchanged" the fluid by draining the pan (4q), refilling it (4q), then I pinned the transmission cooler open, disconnected the return line and put it a bucket. I would then start the truck run it through PND12 and back to park all within 45 seconds. That was the time it took to pump out 4 quarts. I repeated that 3 times to ensure all of the old fluid was removed. I did that every 100k and had absolutely no transmission issues. Overkill? Not for me.
Keep up the good work my friend.
@cisa93 No I did not. All my research said that it was a metal screen and did not need to be replaced. That was also the consensus of TundraTalk. So I just exchanged the fluid.
I just did this procedure, plus dropping the pan and replacing the filters on my 2009 Camry (2AZFE) with 90,000 miles and 2007 Highlander (3MZFE) with 214,000 miles. It was an interesting experience. I broke one of the trans pan bolts on the Camry and had to drill it out, and use a helicoil insert to fix it. That was also quite the interesting experience. All in all, I am glad I have taken up fixing/maintaining my cars as a hobby. Thanks for your videos, you have helped me in my learning experience.
It is also worth noting that you own cars worth maintaining.
Is you highlander a 4 or 6 cylinder?
@@YodaPala The 3MZFE engine is a 6 cylinder.
David Hahn that’s what I got, looks like I can’t pull off the transmission pan because the frame is in the way
@@YodaPala It is possible but you need a special type of wrench to do it. GEARWRENCH 10mm 12 Point XL GearBox Double Box Ratcheting Wrench - 85910. Search up this wrench on Amazon or elsewhere. This wrench will allow you to get between the frame and the pan and it will allow you to access the pan bolt over the stupid lip that is on the pan. The non-ratcheting end sticks up just enough to allow you to reach the bolt. If you have more questions, feel free to ask me. best of luck
Great effort in making this vide and great advice to those who don't know.I changed my ATF on my 2002 Yaris at 70k (70,000 miles) with the proper stuff,Toyota type 4 £36 about from the main dealer itself.It still drives and shifts lovely & smooth today 7 yrs on and i had my vehicle for 12 yrs.Look after the fluids ie check often and change often and your car will it'll look after you and save you money.The AFT should be replaced every 50k (50,000) because most of drivers do it leave it in D (Drive) rather than N (Neutral) in busy traffic when we stop which is a hard habit to change and the AFT will degrade quicker that way.Respect from the UK.
Thanks for sharing your experience. I think it's better to remove transmission pan, replace the filter, and thoroughly clean the two magnates.
Three magnets
@@machon27 ²
I totally agree with you on the need to replace/flush the trans fluid. My question is on the differential fluid whose drain plug is often behind the trans drain plug. Do we ever need to replace the differential fluid? The newer toyota cars have separate differential and trans drain plugs while sharing the same fill entrance. The older cars have separate drain and fill plugs.
My check engine light came on near 200k on my '06 Corolla and was told the torque converter was stuck and when mechanic looked at tranny fluid suggested I sell the car.( he just happened to sell used cars also and offered me a '94 Honda Civic he'd worked on through the years for only $4500). At 206k, I drained and filled tranny along with a filter change. Check engine light went off by itself in 200m and now at 209k no slippage, no apparent problem. Will drain, fill and again change filter 2nd time soon as it has mixed well with the dirty remainder but the next job will be done after some 30k miles or as late as 60k miles depending on visual from dipstick.
Fortunately it was Toyota cuz they never die 😂
In-line transmission fluid filter by Wix, Magnefine, or Ford's truck parts department would be a great addition to any automatic transmission; as it can be easily installed in the cooler line yourself with basic hand tools.
That is especially good on vehicles, such as Honda, that you cannot access the transmission filter and they say it isn't a serviceable filter (which is really dumb engineering in my opinion). so the inline filter gives me peace of mind on my hondas
@@chrisryan8863 Most Honda’s have an in-line Transmission filter part # 25430-PLR-003 or 25430PLR003, same #. I bought it at a Honda dealer about 3 years ago for about $20 (with a discount). The parts guy told me there wasn’t one, but when I gave him the part #, he had it in stock and checked that it did fit my 2009 Honda CR-V and it did. It’s installed in-line (in trans cooling line going to the radiator) behind the radiator in front of the engine. Jim
PS…..I have seen it sold on ebay, but with many Honda knock off parts, I’m not sure I would buy one. The difference in price is not worth taking the chance that this aftermarket unit might not work or harm the trans (by stopping cooling flow).
PPS….on the Honda CR-V I did 3 trans oil changes. First one, than drove it 10 miles, than 2nd one, drove 10 miles, than changed filter and added new trans oil……done!
I have a 2008 rav4 limited and I'm getting a flush today. The fluid is solid black it has 220,000 miles on it. I don't give a damn what the dealership and book says I'm flushing this garbage out of my car and giving it some new fresh transmission fluid!!
I have same Rav4 type. How did it go? Any improvements/set backs in performance?
Curious to know how your trans panned out ? I’m in the same boat you were with the same vehicle I’m about to do this . I appreciate your wisdom.
"Under normal driving conditions" Of course, if the transmission breaks, the dealer will say you used it under "Extreme condition"
Most under-rated channel on RUclips.
This is not a flush. This is a drain and fill. A flush gets all the old fluid out.
I'm curious, a year later, if the *flush* of really old fluid had any long-term effects.
At that age, I *might* do a cold drain and fill. Still, scary with most transmissions.
We flush though the trans cooler lines (no machine ) just start, stop and watch fluid drain and then keep filling until clean fluid (measuring along the way)
So run in park? Disconnect both lines ? How much fluid does a 2014 rav 4 need? You must have to pull drain plug and check level after?
@@markkus1134 6.9 qts toyota ATF WS I would not use anything else. I would buy 10 qts. YOur first time its going to be a slow processs. YOU DONT HAVE TO CHECK THE level if you put in what you take out (have to be accurate) * remember ATF expands as it gets hot!; however toyota dealerships use this ATF Level Gauge Kit = 10002-00101 buy at OTC static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2013/SB-10061231-2273.pdf
@@markkus1134 Lastly check out this process- long winded since its from a teaching university but very accurate on the process- some of the tools utilized can be made. ruclips.net/video/cNcecuGzTDg/видео.html
any idea how i can find out which one is cooling lines i need to disconnect
@@rodolfoaguirre4103 start the car pull the atf line of.trans fluid comes out.its the line you want. Have a bucket rags ect.
Great video. Can you do a sealed transmission fluid drain and fill?
Thanks for showing us. I learned a lot
Wonderful video as always! I would take my car to you for all my Toyota maintenance.
My 2010 Rav4 I-4 is at 130K miles and I think I am going to change the trans fluid in it soon. Bought used in 2022 and no history of trans fluid change. Been on the fence as I have read so many say don't change it if it didn't get changed at 60K and a lot of people saying it's ok to change it. Mine is starting to TC shudder so I think I will change out the fluid. Great video my friend!
How did it go?
What does it mean if the transmission fluid smells burnt. I had a rav4 and I did drain and fill 3 times b4 I got. Nice red fluid and no burnt smell. I did not drop the pan or change the filter but I was tempted too.
Great vlog!
Thanks for sharing this video, great information provided.
Wish you would do a video on a 2009 RAV4 PCV Valve. I'm having a hard time finding the location or videos and Toyota even agreeing on location and part number. THIS IS FOR THE 2.5l 4 cylinder.
Thanks for the video. Quick question:
After you drain and refill, you drive the vehicle for a while, then drain and refill again?
Oxidation is normal on fluids under hight temps. Regards.
I dropped the pan and on thr pan inside was a grayish film dirt of carbon etc. I cleaned the inside of the pan and put a new filter and new gasket and put the pan back on. After that the fluid was clean. Prior to doing that I drained and refilled it twice and it still had the grayish hue. But after removing pan and cleaning the pan and putting it back to the the the fluid was clean.
I love this channel. I have had Hondas but recently got a used Corolla and I do a lot of work (especially the fluids) myself on my cars. You mentioned that you do the drain and fill 2x. Do you drive the vehicle first before doing the second drain and fill in order to get the fluid in the torque converter moving around? Also, how do you feel about using a flush machine, rather than a drain and fill? Thank you.
chris ryan use the car for a week or 500 miles then change again, doing it 3-4 times is the same as flushing without harming the inner components of the transmission
Any suggestions on when to change CVT fluid? Toyota doesn't recommend until much later. Approaching 30k on 2019 Rav4 hybrid.
I wish you were here in the UK I would take my toyota to you for servicing 🙂
That's better than not changing the fluid at all, but you should drop the pan, clean the magnets and change the strainer, too.
If this one has a "rock catcher" strainer, rather than a smaller porosity filter, I would only drop the pan if I needed to fix a leaking pan gasket, but that's me. I would do the drain/fill twice (as the video creator did), with a brief drive in between, if the fluid drain/fill hadn't been done in 50k miles (25k if you tow).
@@garyallman3039 Sure, that's a very good way of doing it.
Can you put a video to change right passenger mount
My fried has 2010 RAV4 AWD and manual shows 8.6 quarts for ATF change. Do we really need that much or 3 to 4 quarts is all we need?
I do the same on mine, but I won't use Toyota WS oil. Use a good full synthetic ATF LV. Flush and fill twice. Drop the pan and replace the strainer filter and clean the magnets occasionally. I do mine every 100k km. Probably overkill, but cheaper than replacing a transmission.
There is nothing wrong with using OEM fluid designed to be used in your Toyota car. The synthetic fluids say "recommended" or "suitable" for use by the oil companys who want to make lots of money. Notice they do not say "approved" by Toyota.
The reason I won't use Toyota WS is because here in Australia you can only buy it from Toyota, and its expensive. I have used Penrite full synthetic ATF LV which says suitable for Toyota WS on the packaging. Not had any issues so far and transmission has 180k km on it currently. Still shifts really smoothly.
Until where should the oil level be on the dipstick
Great video 👍
It's a good idea to do a drain and fill every 30000 miles that's what I do on my RAV4 I have a 2011 with just about 25,000 miles on it now when it hits 30,000 miles I will drain and fill it with world standard fluid
Hi. Which new Toyota suv or off road would you buy for a family.
How to flush the radiator on a Sienna 2015
It takes 10 minutes to drain and refill the 2 quarts my Toyota 5 speed manual transmission holds. BTW I use Amsoil Full Synthetic lubricant.
On a 2007?? Spend twice as much? Maybe if the car was new! Kinda just a waste. Thing isn't gonna last forever
the manual says to flush every five years , the dipstick says you should not have to add any between changes. It also requires the machine to properly flush the torque converter. My rav4 transmission is very temperamental with its oil and will have trouble shifting in -20 unless It has the oil changed every few years
Seems many Rav4s are susceptible to weather temperature.
Great video.. lifetime fluid a kapouie manufactures want consumers to buy a new vehicle every 5 to 7 years I never buy new vehicles they depreciate too much. Thanks 🙏 for sharing
Every 2 or 3 years I would say.
Once one develops an interest in servicing his cars, the perspective is changed. When I paid for my car services, I had no clues what was going with the car, e.g. brake pads etc and I would consider buying a new car as they age. But once I started serving my cars, all I have in my mind is to fix whatever is wrong or parts that need service. So it does not even occur to me often to get a new car. As they say, mechanics always drive old cars.
learningfromthebest now that’s so true 👍
2018 Rav4 XLE FWD how many miles for replace transmission fluid? Need your expert advice not sticker advice
Need oil pan gasket 2004 sequoia vlog please
Great informative video. I did have one question. After the second drain , did you drop the trans pan and replace the filter ?
It is a good idea to drop the pan and change the filter. Also you can remove debris and clean the whole pan.
My gut feeling is if one changes the trans fluid often, the trans fluid filter may stay longer (or forever). However, if the car as shown here had first trans drain-and-replace at 210 miles, the trans filter would probably be better off replaced. I have done both flush and filter change on 98 and 99 Camry that had late (170K and 250K miles) trans fluid change. However, on my 2010 Camry that had first trans fluid drain-and-replace at 100K miles and follow up drain-replace, I am hoping I wouldn't have to change the trans fluid filter.
How many miles until change it for the 2016 rav4, normal driving conditions?
Did the auto transmission make any noises to indicate a need to replace? I have a Japanese auto Celica year 2000 and I think the transmission is making a worn bearing noise... I am finding it hard to pin point the noise tbh (I had thought it was a tensioner bearing in a belt or something) when I check my fluid it is not terrible , still red but by no means new.
Did you ever figure out the worn bearing sound?
Hello, I have a question, I hope you can help me. I just bought a 2010 rav4 AWD and its making a humming noise around 30mph till 40mph if I let off the throttle noise stops. I think its coming from the transmission area. I read that it's normal on toyotas. Any suggestions?
I have the same sound on a 2009 RAV4 4WD with 90k miles. I bought it last year with 86k miles. By any chance did you find any more info on the noise?
Why you didn't change the oil filter since the il is too dirty !!!!!
Hey guy. I have a 2013 Toyota RAV4 with 102,600 miles and no problems at all. In your opinion should I do a drain and fill on the transmission or a drain and flush along with the filter change. Dropping the pan and the whole thing.
did you find out?
@@root123 No one ever replied back to me.
Do you recommend transmission flush with the machine? Or drain and filled ?
Thanks for sharing your video
No do NOT ever flush AFT with the machine. Instead manually change the fluid til it is near crystal clear like new
Good video, but I was hoping that you were going to show us how to do it on a newer model without a dipstick.
when the car is cold, drain it and make sure measure it. locate the 24 mm screw - that is where you gonna refill.
La vằn Ù
But what if I just bought the car used from someone and that someone changed the oil themselves and improperly refilled the transmission oil and it was under filled.
If someone does it this way they’re not putting the correct amount of fluid back in if the fluid isn’t at the correct level before they even started.
No filter replacement?
Um abraço do Brasil, muito bom.
Did you notice any performance improvement after the flush ?
I think that his objective is to prevent issues
Actually, anywhere where it snows, it would be considered severe driving conditions
What about running the engine for 20 or 30 seconds after the first drain to get another quart or two out on each drain cycle?
What about the transmission filter?
u dont replace the filter
How often do you have to change the fluid in a Toyota RAV4?
Every 30k-60k but some like doing it around 15k
No filter??
On the last trans oil change you forgot to drop pan, change filter, clean magnets, clean pan & replace gasket……Jim
I'm still shocked Toyota doesn't recommend we change our Transmission fluid? That sounds crazy. Is this for all Toyotas?
Not sure why this statement given by Toyota.
But with sealed transmission, less moisture getting in and avoiding user to put wrong transmission fluid in it.
But good to replace regularly maybe at 60-80k miles interval.
Oil is cheaper than transmission.
While regular changing of ATF fluid is a good idea, when the oil is very old and very dirty a clean change of oil can end up with the gears slipping as the grime was what was keeping the bands binding. Also I just saw a parallel video where they flush the entire system which was comparatively simple, but requires more fluid as you are also removing oil from the torque converter..ruclips.net/video/ntFVCVW-lG8/видео.html
Does it use any specific type of transmission fluid?
@victor felix - he used Toyota ATF WS fluid
Synthetic oil looks dirty after only 1000 km but lab tests have shown that synthetic oil will last for over 20,000 km.
At least 80k
That fluid really was not that bad if it was original. It needed changed a long time ago though.
That is quite true. When I did the first trans fluid change on 2010 Camry at 100K miles, the color looks darker red, but not bad. That tells me the first trans fluid drain-replace could probably be done at 150K miles. But I changed regardless as I was ready. That adds about 45% new trans fluid. I would not rush for the next drain-replace.
I thought it was a bad idea to replace transmission fluid in a high mileage vehicle.
Its a gamble.
It's risky to do a power flush with a machine at high mileage especially if didn't replace the filter first.
this is not a transmission flush, it just a oil in the pan replace.
Right!!
He said he would test drive and then drain-replace one more time. That would give 3/4 new trans fluid.
What, no cleaning the magnets inside or checking the condition of the filter ?
Even with new fluid this transmission especially since it had been neglected already is doomed for failure very soon.
Oh ffs you can't possibly know that. I know for a fact mine hasn't been changed for the last 7 years and 80, 000KM at least, and it still shifts buttery smooth. Yes I'm looking forward to changing it soon but it is in no way 'doomed for failure very soon'. And neither is this vehicle. Get a grip fella!
Mechanical friendly cars
I am Not saying the ATF does not need to be changed, it does! But, the way you were doing the comparison was absolutely unscientific. Personally, I replace the ATF every 30,000 miles then the Toyota filter/strainer every 2nd or 3rd ATF drain/refill (all other fluids, I replace them after the initial break-in period or within the first 3000 miles of the car).
Some techs believe that if you flush old, dirty fluid, it will cause the automatic transmission to slip because the trans get used to the dirty fluid and clean one will cause slippage and require a trans overhaul.
it happens if the fluid is really bad and the thing holding the transmission together was the grit in the fluid. what he did is more of a drain ,refill and drain refill. the real "flush" that can cause issues pumps new fluid and exchanges it with fluid hooked to a machine and sometimes can cause issues. doing it this way is probably the better way then doing a flush with a machine but thats just my 2 cents
Not rereally but you can do double drain if you want spend some extra money 😊
thats original fluid?
Yes....WS= World series and Type 4 for older Toyota's usually approx pre 2003.But always read the owners manual for which AFT to use.
No,No, do one on YOUR direction for one WITHOUT the dipstick. By the way, “dipstick” is a way to kind way to describe the Toyota folks who decided we DON’T NEED A DIPSTICK!!!
Sticks and stones may break our Toyota bones, you know the rest.
Their logic is that if there is a transmission service they want the customer to take it a shop and have it serviced. How many times does someone take a vehicle into a shop only needed just one thing fixed. Most of the time there will be additional "recommended" services items. And as a matter of convenience you say go ahead a service it. Just a part of life.
This is a drain and fill not a FLUSH haha.3.5 litres 3.7 quarts. Just put back what came out. 2005+ uses WS, prior 2005 used t-iv
You are changing not flushing
No filter and NOT a flush!
Let's be honest....Toyota WS turns black almost instantly.
Not a flush
Too bad, most new car (even 2016 RAV4) has no ATF dip stick anymore :(... stupid engineering at its best.
Very bad job..