Thanks for your video. I should have read all the comments because I would have seen the idea of using a blob of grease to catch the shavings. That was a good tip. Some shavings definitely got in my engine, but very few. I tried to get as many out as I could. One thing I did was drill the 17/64 hole by hand. That gave me more control and I was able to go slow to reduce the shavings that ended up inside.
I use playdoh pressed in to the back side to catch shavings then after the hole is tapped, push the playdoh through the new tapped hole to clean up the hole.
Cool vid. I'm a machinist- the way we normally keep chips out is to cover the drill with anti seize and clean the drill after small progress. Works wonders
Guys, these videos are simply wonderful and I want to thank you for them. Not only does it show potential customers how to fix their own problems, it shows that the company knows what they are talking about with their products. I'm new to VW restoration even though I've been around them a lot of my life. I've learned my lesson on who to buy from - I really like your company. There are a few others that are good as well but I have Airheads in the top 5.
Great job! I have a 74' Porsche Magnesium motor. The threads are stripped like yours were , should I do the same procedure as you, or should I use a cert of some kind? Thanks Russ
A glob of grease over the stud hole on the inside of the case will prevent stray chips. Drill and tap. Install the replacement stud just until it's level with the inside of the case, then draw the grease back toward the center hole with a paper-towel-wrapped or rag-wrapped popsicle stick.
thank you so mush for the help and all your time ! could i just thread the hole and put a regular bolt in.?, or will it just strip out soon because the magnesium is too soft.?.
careful guys - this isn't as easy as it looks. My screen and sump plate didn't fit over the studs anymore afterwards - the new bolt wasn't aligned properly.
Thanks for the video! Unfortunately I had to look this problem up because another Gremlin visited us today while trying to change the oil in our 1968 Beetle for the first time. She is a new addition. We were able to get 5 of the 6 nuts off the drain plate, but on one, the whole stud came out with the nut stuck on the end. Someone recommended just leaving it stuck on there and putting red threadlocker on it and putting back in after cleaning everting. But would it be best to somehow get the nut off the stud and THEN using the threadlocker to put the stud back on? I am thinking then next time we change the oil we don't have to take out the whole stud with the nut stuck on it and having to remember which one has the threadlocker on it. Making it harder to take out anyway? Right? LoL Trying to do it the smart way to make things easier down the road. I am looking up how to do it so that I don't damage the thread by using something like pliers. Like two other nuts on the other end? Sorry so long winded here.
I didnt make the video, but if its not smooth with the block file it down until it is. Then centerer punch the stud stuck and drill it out and oversize it like the video did to fix a stripped one.
Hi , could you please tell me ,the hole depth in the case ,where the studs are located ,that hold the cylinders in place? I'm asking this because Time-Sert ,needs this info in order to make me a special kit to put inserts on my car. Thank you.
Thank you! I tried it out a few weeks back and it worked out well. I put the new studs in as well and it wasn't as hard as I thought it would be. Now all I need is a new starter to test out the motor.
THANK U AIRHEAD! !! second time you've come through for el carito!!! Hugs and..... well, hugs :)
Thanks for your video. I should have read all the comments because I would have seen the idea of using a blob of grease to catch the shavings. That was a good tip. Some shavings definitely got in my engine, but very few. I tried to get as many out as I could. One thing I did was drill the 17/64 hole by hand. That gave me more control and I was able to go slow to reduce the shavings that ended up inside.
I use playdoh pressed in to the back side to catch shavings then after the hole is tapped, push the playdoh through the new tapped hole to clean up the hole.
"it's easier to do than you may think"
You`ve saved my ass.
Good bye oil leaks.
Cool vid. I'm a machinist- the way we normally keep chips out is to cover the drill with anti seize and clean the drill after small progress. Works wonders
Guys, these videos are simply wonderful and I want to thank you for them. Not only does it show potential customers how to fix their own problems, it shows that the company knows what they are talking about with their products.
I'm new to VW restoration even though I've been around them a lot of my life. I've learned my lesson on who to buy from - I really like your company. There are a few others that are good as well but I have Airheads in the top 5.
Excellent how-to video. Did the job yesterday and it was way easier than I imagined Thanks for posting
Yeh, just did this to my beetle.... (screw torque wrenchs)
Glad you made a video about this.
Great job! I have a 74' Porsche Magnesium motor. The threads are stripped like yours were , should I do the same procedure as you, or should I use a cert of some kind? Thanks Russ
Hi--
oil strainer 1200-1600 single relief case- 311-115-175 A
oil strainer 1600 dual relief case- 111-115-175 B
gasket set- 113-198-031 (includes crush washer for drain plug)
--Andre T.
Hi, nice! If the screws broke inside, can I also drill it?
When he drilled using the drill bit, did he drill all the way until he made a whole tunnel where the new stud would go?
A glob of grease over the stud hole on the inside of the case will prevent stray chips. Drill and tap. Install the replacement stud just until it's level with the inside of the case, then draw the grease back toward the center hole with a paper-towel-wrapped or rag-wrapped popsicle stick.
thank you so mush for the help and all your time !
could i just thread the hole and put a regular bolt in.?, or will it just strip out soon because the magnesium is too soft.?.
careful guys - this isn't as easy as it looks. My screen and sump plate didn't fit over the studs anymore afterwards - the new bolt wasn't aligned properly.
Thanks for the video! Unfortunately I had to look this problem up because another Gremlin visited us today while trying to change the oil in our 1968 Beetle for the first time. She is a new addition. We were able to get 5 of the 6 nuts off the drain plate, but on one, the whole stud came out with the nut stuck on the end. Someone recommended just leaving it stuck on there and putting red threadlocker on it and putting back in after cleaning everting. But would it be best to somehow get the nut off the stud and THEN using the threadlocker to put the stud back on? I am thinking then next time we change the oil we don't have to take out the whole stud with the nut stuck on it and having to remember which one has the threadlocker on it. Making it harder to take out anyway? Right? LoL Trying to do it the smart way to make things easier down the road. I am looking up how to do it so that I don't damage the thread by using something like pliers. Like two other nuts on the other end? Sorry so long winded here.
Let's say a stud broke in half... From loosening a previously overtightened nut... How do I get it out?
What do you do if the original stud just snapped off while tightening the cap screw?
I didnt make the video, but if its not smooth with the block file it down until it is. Then centerer punch the stud stuck and drill it out and oversize it like the video did to fix a stripped one.
Hi , could you please tell me ,the hole depth in the case ,where the studs are located ,that hold the cylinders in place? I'm asking this because Time-Sert ,needs this info in order to make me a special kit to put inserts on my car. Thank you.
Thank you. I had to make my step stud but cool fix.
What about the stud that's holding the oil bowl?
How far in do you drill,all the way, or do you back off at a certain point?
Great but how do you take the studs out
I see a few options on the website, Is the 6x8x23mm stud the double sided one used in the video? PN : N114521 ?
Here you go:
stud: N144512
oversized (fatter on the case side) stud: N144521
Nice job.
How can I clea the oil compartment? I'm spanis and I don't understand the video very well
HI, How can I clean the oil compartment (carter)?
is that part# for the stud kit
Does anyone know how to take out the original stud for the replacement?
vise grips and spin that sicker out of there
Thank you! I tried it out a few weeks back and it worked out well. I put the new studs in as well and it wasn't as hard as I thought it would be. Now all I need is a new starter to test out the motor.
Jeff Guerrero glad it worked out fine!
clean
i should do this,... stop my baja from leaking everywhere
what is the part # for that kit ?