The best way to setup that tav is to flip around the drive clutch so that both sheves move in the same direction therefore the belt stays aligned the entire time and it also eliminates all the spacers on the crankshaft which frees up a lot of end load on the case bearings! That's how I've setup all of mine and that's also the way that comet intended them to be set up. I have also ran them the way that you've got that one as well as hundreds of other people and that's fine it's just personal preference in my opinion!
It's the correct way, rounded side in. Looks backwards but that way the belt stays straight always no matter what rpm. It does require you to shim the driven pulley out further also. But if you watch the belt when you rev the engine, rounded side out, it twists.
I have mine set up the same way you do but it still takes off on me and it burned the belt I'm waiting on a new one now firm amazon I have a Chinese 40 series what advice do you have for me?
I like the chain tensioner, not sure it comes with it. In the process of restoring, modifying a manko go kart, came with Robin OHC 5HP engine. I have a new Predator 420cc I just installed 50lbs valve springs and removed the oil level shut off and governor arm from the inside. I can increase max RPMs rated at 3600 up to around 4500, no I didn't install a billet flywheel, they have none that has a charge output. ! bought a 40 series torque converter but it's not the top of the line, had to retire early from work so It's not the best out there but the drive and driven pulleys look of good quality and I can mod the rest. The karts rear drive shaft is not round, has 5 flat sides entire shaft so finding a new rear sprocket is going to be tough. Your mounting plate is almost twice the thickness of mine but they did install braces but are mainly just spot welded in places so I'll strip the paint and make compete welds on all the bracing. But we just move to NV so I need to set up my work shop first, it's freaking hot.
Flip the driver 180°, the belts will last longer. I've got 2 trailmasters like yours with the 420cc engines with upgrades. They probably put out about 16 to 18 hp depending on ambient temperature. The original chain is a #530 which I kept and works well. Mine takes off kinda slow with original gearing but will get up to 50mph. Probably could get up to 55+ but the front end starts to shimmy way to much for my better judgement. Liked your vid, enjoy your little helper while you can. My little helpers are grown and I hardly hear from them until they need something (money). Happy trails!
so basically what you're telling me is i need to but the green spring rather than the yellow that i already got? no problem ive got a spare set of clutches both primary and secondary so ill just build them with different engagements to play with. the clicking at low rpm had the guy who refabrecated the swing arm chasing a chain chunk for 2 months lol it was this video that got me on replacing the driven spring but i went with yellow
Well....hold on a second....the soring color on the secondary clutch defines rotational engagement only for the secondary clutch. What i was referencing were the weights and springs behind the primary clutch that is mounted to your engine output shaft. Changing the weights inside the primary clutch will change the engagement speed rpm the clutch throws out at. Light springs and weights equals lower rpm engagement. Strong springs with heavy weights makes the rom engagment higher. ..... Now lets go back to the secondary clutch spring. In my case with the shitty china torque converter setup....the green spring is wound for counter clockwise rotation....and my red spring i took out is for clockwise rotation. Make sure u know which way your clutch is rotating before making the secondary spring change.
It would.....im ok with where its at....the kart doubles as a towing device moving around crap....i only have bump tight trails too....doesnt need to be fast for me! But yeah....making that one smaller would b helpful. Better ground clearance too!!!!!
I noticed your driven pulley looks like it has symmetrical and drive pulley has 1 tapered and flat side if so what kind of belt you running I’m doin a build myself
I had a wheel with a bearing in it already from a kids toy. I drilled the slot out with about 10 holes and then ground out the rest. I wound up aborting that tensioner method and identified why my chain was stretching too much. My gear ratio was just too high. I reduced the gear ratio down.
One other thing I found was a good quality belt like OEM comet, something with kevlar! Not only will it last longer but believe it or not the performance will also be better! PS I absolutely loved the (National Lampoon's Christmas Vacation) cousin Eddie impersonation, it was spot on LOL 😂😂🤣😂🤣
Hahaha...ty..... Im on a rev 2 design. The gear ratio was way off! I had to reduce it unknown times! Still in design review! Lol....trying to get down to around a 40:1 ratio........
@@myskiis2fast4u got a brand new 13hp 420cc predator motor just got get a 40 series clutch kit and motor plate having my neighbors mount it and weld and fix it.
@@myskiis2fast4u there’s enough room between the pulley and back plate? I’m really considering buying this same torque converter so just was curious before I went with it. Thanks for your answer
I want to say my sprocket width is about 15mm.....give me the dimensions of the double roller sprocket and ill do my best to measure it and see if there are enough threads
Oh man.....its too close if you asked me ... U need a teeny bit of clearance for the chain also. There arent that many threads on the end of the shaft. You would need to get a longer jack shaft for the secondary clutch and your sprocket. I used a #420 o ring chain behind that 13hp without any problems ... Y the double roller???
Theres actually another dude on youtube that showed the 40series perfectly. Im forced into the space i have so im stuck with it now. Use a good belt and ive got 25hrs on it so far...belt still looks new
If you have the extra room to set it up that way i agree....its correct. I will say though my kart gets used almost daily and has about 300+ hours on the same belt with what i have setup. It works either way.
Good point....if your using a reverse gear box to reverse the direction the chain will be lose on the other side....but youre in reverse! Anyway....after hours of testing ive realized that if you stretch a chain in 20min then your gear ratio is wrong!!!! Look at my latest video with the china gear box....my kart wound need close to a 40:1 final drive ratio
@@myskiis2fast4u hi im building an EV ATV and am in the process of acquiring a 40 series, do you know of a way to make it turn at zero rpm, i mean bypassing the clutch while keeping the infinite ratio
@@vectteur im not sure i understand what you mean...anything brushless dc shouldnt even need the clutch...assuming youre way over 3kw/4kw.....also....the driven clutch will only work in one direction. If your using your electric motor for reverse youre just gonna spring out that driven clutch cause your going opposite of the spring wind direction. Your belt wont bite in the driven clutch if you reverse that 40series system. 40series built for one rotation only...thats y we need a gear box behind it to do reverse....hope that helps!
@@myskiis2fast4u yes it help, its a pmac me1718, i would like to know how to remove or "freez" the clutch, is this something i can just weld to spin at zero or doing so mess with the thing ?
@@vectteur im still not sure which one u want to have in a fixed position. It sounds like u want some sort of a clutch....i would just ditch the driven pulley then and put on a normal fixed size 7.5" pulley... You can weld it to so the driven pulley doesnt change gear ratios.......sorry still a little confused.
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Thank you for this video. No one says you need a reverse wound spring running the 40 series outboard on most other videos.
The best way to setup that tav is to flip around the drive clutch so that both sheves move in the same direction therefore the belt stays aligned the entire time and it also eliminates all the spacers on the crankshaft which frees up a lot of end load on the case bearings! That's how I've setup all of mine and that's also the way that comet intended them to be set up. I have also ran them the way that you've got that one as well as hundreds of other people and that's fine it's just personal preference in my opinion!
It's the correct way, rounded side in. Looks backwards but that way the belt stays straight always no matter what rpm. It does require you to shim the driven pulley out further also. But if you watch the belt when you rev the engine, rounded side out, it twists.
I have mine set up the same way you do but it still takes off on me and it burned the belt I'm waiting on a new one now firm amazon I have a Chinese 40 series what advice do you have for me?
I like the chain tensioner, not sure it comes with it. In the process of restoring, modifying a manko go kart, came with Robin OHC 5HP engine. I have a new Predator 420cc I just installed 50lbs valve springs and removed the oil level shut off and governor arm from the inside. I can increase max RPMs rated at 3600 up to around 4500, no I didn't install a billet flywheel, they have none that has a charge output. ! bought a 40 series torque converter but it's not the top of the line, had to retire early from work so It's not the best out there but the drive and driven pulleys look of good quality and I can mod the rest. The karts rear drive shaft is not round, has 5 flat sides entire shaft so finding a new rear sprocket is going to be tough. Your mounting plate is almost twice the thickness of mine but they did install braces but are mainly just spot welded in places so I'll strip the paint and make compete welds on all the bracing. But we just move to NV so I need to set up my work shop first, it's freaking hot.
Flip the driver 180°, the belts will last longer. I've got 2 trailmasters like yours with the 420cc engines with upgrades. They probably put out about 16 to 18 hp depending on ambient temperature. The original chain is a #530 which I kept and works well. Mine takes off kinda slow with original gearing but will get up to 50mph. Probably could get up to 55+ but the front end starts to shimmy way to much for my better judgement. Liked your vid, enjoy your little helper while you can. My little helpers are grown and I hardly hear from them until they need something (money). Happy trails!
I love that you apologized for the noise instead of quieting the kids. Liked and subbed Dad......You're killing it man!
Duct tape works wonders. ;)
@@MMPhoto Just showed my wife the video, He's doing a good job as \Dad. Mine are batsh#$...but Ima try harder because of this.
Love how your buddy is part of the video
Never apologize for your kids let’s them be kids and I love when my kids help me one day I won’t be there for them
Great video. This is so refreshing compared to most of the garbage on here. Keep it up!
Thats why i did it... Its so difficult to find good info.....
so basically what you're telling me is i need to but the green spring rather than the yellow that i already got? no problem ive got a spare set of clutches both primary and secondary so ill just build them with different engagements to play with. the clicking at low rpm had the guy who refabrecated the swing arm chasing a chain chunk for 2 months lol it was this video that got me on replacing the driven spring but i went with yellow
Well....hold on a second....the soring color on the secondary clutch defines rotational engagement only for the secondary clutch. What i was referencing were the weights and springs behind the primary clutch that is mounted to your engine output shaft. Changing the weights inside the primary clutch will change the engagement speed rpm the clutch throws out at. Light springs and weights equals lower rpm engagement. Strong springs with heavy weights makes the rom engagment higher. ..... Now lets go back to the secondary clutch spring. In my case with the shitty china torque converter setup....the green spring is wound for counter clockwise rotation....and my red spring i took out is for clockwise rotation. Make sure u know which way your clutch is rotating before making the secondary spring change.
Man I like what you just did
Usually you had to purchase a yellow reverse wound spring made by the genuine Comet Company USA .
Not only did china give us covid....they also gave us reverse wound springs!! 😂😂😂🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣😂😂😂😂
Hy👏. Maybe you know the distance between the center, variator plates?
Im not sure i know what measurements youre looking for?? I will measure whatever u want
@@myskiis2fast4u distance between bolt ,mounting variator
Still dont understand what measurement youre looking for
If you put a smaller sprocket on the axle wouldn’t it go faster?
It would.....im ok with where its at....the kart doubles as a towing device moving around crap....i only have bump tight trails too....doesnt need to be fast for me! But yeah....making that one smaller would b helpful. Better ground clearance too!!!!!
I noticed your driven pulley looks like it has symmetrical and drive pulley has 1 tapered and flat side if so what kind of belt you running I’m doin a build myself
Sorry....you had me for a minute until i looked at it today. Both of my pulleys are tapered!
What were the parts you got for the chain tensioner you rigged up? And how did you cut that slot in the plate for the spring to move up and down?
I had a wheel with a bearing in it already from a kids toy. I drilled the slot out with about 10 holes and then ground out the rest. I wound up aborting that tensioner method and identified why my chain was stretching too much. My gear ratio was just too high. I reduced the gear ratio down.
Which torque converter did you order I need the same one with the thin plate
Look up www.blastled.com they have the torque converter with the flat plate. Been a good unit for me!
Lmao bro said gonna brab my snapon guy here (picks up Milwaukee impact 💀)
Nice video
Great video.
Do you know a shop where I can find only the ccw spring?
Best regards from Germany
ebay i guess
Gopowersports has them in stock sometimes.
One other thing I found was a good quality belt like OEM comet, something with kevlar! Not only will it last longer but believe it or not the performance will also be better!
PS
I absolutely loved the (National Lampoon's Christmas Vacation) cousin Eddie impersonation, it was spot on LOL 😂😂🤣😂🤣
Hahaha...ty..... Im on a rev 2 design. The gear ratio was way off! I had to reduce it unknown times! Still in design review! Lol....trying to get down to around a 40:1 ratio........
Is that a yerfdog spiderbox go kart
I believe it's a trailmaster 300?.....one of the Chinese brands.....I didn't get much info from the orig owner.
@@myskiis2fast4u got a brand new 13hp 420cc predator motor just got get a 40 series clutch kit and motor plate having my neighbors mount it and weld and fix it.
@@skulltaz2872 nice good luck!!!!
@@myskiis2fast4u Thanks
You walked it on the litttle guy says so cute
Will that clutch work on a golf cart
Border line.....id personally look up a 44 series converter for something that heavy
Can you run a double roller chain with this?
I guess you could but you would need the double roller sprocket
@@myskiis2fast4u there’s enough room between the pulley and back plate? I’m really considering buying this same torque converter so just was curious before I went with it. Thanks for your answer
I want to say my sprocket width is about 15mm.....give me the dimensions of the double roller sprocket and ill do my best to measure it and see if there are enough threads
@@myskiis2fast4u the chain is 1 1/2in the sprocket would be closer to 1 3/4in
Oh man.....its too close if you asked me ... U need a teeny bit of clearance for the chain also. There arent that many threads on the end of the shaft. You would need to get a longer jack shaft for the secondary clutch and your sprocket. I used a #420 o ring chain behind that 13hp without any problems ... Y the double roller???
The clutches on a 40 series should be centered not like the 30 series which should have the back of the clutches aligned .
Theres actually another dude on youtube that showed the 40series perfectly. Im forced into the space i have so im stuck with it now. Use a good belt and ive got 25hrs on it so far...belt still looks new
Hallo bro I need this how much this one
I think it was around $300....dont remeber exactly
Please see this video for the correct installation and alignment of the 40 series TC:
ruclips.net/video/Bh--LbTIdLI/видео.html
If you have the extra room to set it up that way i agree....its correct. I will say though my kart gets used almost daily and has about 300+ hours on the same belt with what i have setup. It works either way.
Use blue loctite not red.
You are gonna have trouble getting those off.
You'll need heat to remove the bolts with red.
😀😀😀😀👍
What if need to use both direction
Good point....if your using a reverse gear box to reverse the direction the chain will be lose on the other side....but youre in reverse! Anyway....after hours of testing ive realized that if you stretch a chain in 20min then your gear ratio is wrong!!!! Look at my latest video with the china gear box....my kart wound need close to a 40:1 final drive ratio
@@myskiis2fast4u hi im building an EV ATV and am in the process of acquiring a 40 series, do you know of a way to make it turn at zero rpm, i mean bypassing the clutch while keeping the infinite ratio
@@vectteur im not sure i understand what you mean...anything brushless dc shouldnt even need the clutch...assuming youre way over 3kw/4kw.....also....the driven clutch will only work in one direction. If your using your electric motor for reverse youre just gonna spring out that driven clutch cause your going opposite of the spring wind direction. Your belt wont bite in the driven clutch if you reverse that 40series system. 40series built for one rotation only...thats y we need a gear box behind it to do reverse....hope that helps!
@@myskiis2fast4u yes it help, its a pmac me1718, i would like to know how to remove or "freez" the clutch, is this something i can just weld to spin at zero or doing so mess with the thing ?
@@vectteur im still not sure which one u want to have in a fixed position. It sounds like u want some sort of a clutch....i would just ditch the driven pulley then and put on a normal fixed size 7.5" pulley... You can weld it to so the driven pulley doesnt change gear ratios.......sorry still a little confused.