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The torque converter has a variable ratio and the china gear box has a ratio thats quoted somewhere online. I dont know it. I sat there one day and counted how many times i turned the crank (spk plug out) to one tire rotation. With the torque converter belt in its lowest setting (obviously) i was at 52 turns of crank pulley to one tire revolution. Rounded down cause me and my good friend miller did the counting😂😂😂😂

@@scottwiggins2364 i would tend to agree with you except for the fact my gear ratio is purposely around 50:1. Theres no way i could get that if i didnt reduce it on the way in. You are right though if your application doesnt require such a low ratio like mine.

Sorry....you had me for a minute until i looked at it today. Both of my pulleys are tapered!

Im not sure i know what measurements youre looking for?? I will measure whatever u want

@@myskiis2fast4u distance between bolt ,mounting variator

Still dont understand what measurement youre looking for

I had a wheel with a bearing in it already from a kids toy. I drilled the slot out with about 10 holes and then ground out the rest. I wound up aborting that tensioner method and identified why my chain was stretching too much. My gear ratio was just too high. I reduced the gear ratio down.

You'll need heat to remove the bolts with red.

If you blew out your seals then your vent tube wasnt venting! Physics.....i have well over 200hrs on this setup and zero leaks......

Im very impressed with the electric wheel....does 20mph!

@@myskiis2fast4u col. i am not dumping on it. i am just a small engine guy. was this from a kit?

@@AmandaDragmire yea....surrey the bike MFG sells them as an accessory.......

I guess you could but you would need the double roller sprocket

@@myskiis2fast4u there’s enough room between the pulley and back plate? I’m really considering buying this same torque converter so just was curious before I went with it. Thanks for your answer

I want to say my sprocket width is about 15mm.....give me the dimensions of the double roller sprocket and ill do my best to measure it and see if there are enough threads

@@myskiis2fast4u the chain is 1 1/2in the sprocket would be closer to 1 3/4in

Oh man.....its too close if you asked me ... U need a teeny bit of clearance for the chain also. There arent that many threads on the end of the shaft. You would need to get a longer jack shaft for the secondary clutch and your sprocket. I used a #420 o ring chain behind that 13hp without any problems ... Y the double roller???

Just search "heavy weight 40 series primary clutch springs"

I went thru all that trouble and my flock never accepted him after months of trying!!!! Then the racoon got him because he wasnt allowed in the coop that night.............r.i.p.....

@@myskiis2fast4u dam what a way to go

Im glad you studied my video long enough to criticize cutting down a gokart shaft for a sprocket. There's always one.... Thanks for being you!

Duct tape works wonders. ;)

@@MMPhoto Just showed my wife the video, He's doing a good job as \Dad. Mine are batsh#$...but Ima try harder because of this.

Well....hold on a second....the soring color on the secondary clutch defines rotational engagement only for the secondary clutch. What i was referencing were the weights and springs behind the primary clutch that is mounted to your engine output shaft. Changing the weights inside the primary clutch will change the engagement speed rpm the clutch throws out at. Light springs and weights equals lower rpm engagement. Strong springs with heavy weights makes the rom engagment higher. ..... Now lets go back to the secondary clutch spring. In my case with the shitty china torque converter setup....the green spring is wound for counter clockwise rotation....and my red spring i took out is for clockwise rotation. Make sure u know which way your clutch is rotating before making the secondary spring change.

Hey brother.....so i made another video about the primary clutch weights and springs. My ghetto freight predator motor just hates low rpms. I ordered heavy weights and springs for the primary and now i have NO ISSUES at all cause the primary clutch is finally disengaged correctly. What clutch/torque converter are you using?

@@myskiis2fast4u yeah that sounds like my issue because it only clicks with acceleration from a stop but smooths out at around 15km/h im using a 40 series cvt before the reverse box rounded off by a 65 tooth sprocket on the axle which the roads im mostly on the speed limit is 20km/h and the trails im trying to ride is 15 but there is one 50 and one 80. now the fastest ive had it with the stock transaxle was 52km/h and i was floating valves

He's the "send it brother" friend we all have

On the secondary output shaft i have a 10t....that goes to a 20t on the gearbox input shaft....then on the gearbox output shaft i have a 10t....that goes to a 60t on the axle

If you have the extra room to set it up that way i agree....its correct. I will say though my kart gets used almost daily and has about 300+ hours on the same belt with what i have setup. It works either way.

Not only did china give us covid....they also gave us reverse wound springs!! 😂😂😂🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣😂😂😂😂

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@@myskiis2fast4u Thanks ! !

No...unfortunatley not....that is how i started. I had just the 40 series torque converter and then a 10t to a 60t. Geared way too high....... I kept blowing chains apart and i had no real power. I wanted reverse anyway so that is where i made up the gear ratio to make it more trail worthy.... I did waze speed test and my valves float at 15mph downhill! Lolol... But thats my gearing for what i need. I use it more like a tractor than a go kart. If you have super big tires 20"+ you gonna need somewhere around 35:1 or so to do about 20/25mph... Depends on what u want to do. I know opinions are like assholes but if u have any other questions feel free to ask.

@@myskiis2fast4u oh no kidding. this engine has 18hp and 26ftlb torquec i have 25 inch tires. im gonna brace the shaft on the gearbox like @carsandcameras did on their install. My main idea is less stress on gear box and more on anything else. i want to go at least 45 on the trails. my plan was 10 tooth to a 30 tooth to a 10 tooth to a 60 tooth. idk how to figure out the ratio ?:1

@@myskiis2fast4u Currently running that engine 6:1 with just the torque converter and axle it gets me to 40 mph just with 18 inch wheels. heavy duty hubs coming in soon for the Polaris wheels

I was looking for my excel sheet i had two years ago when i did the crazy math...... Ultimately i did buy two gears as a fuck it and try it method. I did start with a 30t on the input shaft to the gear box and that was like 9 or 10mph with i think i have 22" tires. It was like crawl mode.....my while drivetrain for that crawl mode was torque converter....10t to 30t....then china gear box ratio?....the 10t on the output gearbox to 60t on the axle. I think you mentioned the 30t in the middle. Im not super good at math but i think even with maybe better rpms in your motor and bigger tires youre not gonna get into the 40's/mph. Just based on what i have now torque convert....10t to 20t input gear box.....then gear box....then 10t to 60t....that only got me up to 15mph. Again even with your tires and motor i bet you wont get up into the 30's.... I feel like based on what i have and your tire size you should try a 15 tooth on the gear box input shaft. This shits a pain in the ass but seriously i think that 30t on the input at gear box is gonna make u do awesome wheelies but terrible top end. Look through my videos....i have a 15min video thats dated before the heavey weights video and that shows that i had the 30t and it was like a crawler!!!

@@myskiis2fast4u okay that makes I'm curious if I can't gear it to get to those speeds like a 10 to 10 to 10 to 60 or 10 to 10 to 10 to 30 idk whatever crazy shit I gotta do I'll try it all at that point don't have the unit right now but I will then I will upload the content of my yerf buggy.

I think it was around $300....dont remeber exactly

Look up www.blastled.com they have the torque converter with the flat plate. Been a good unit for me!

Im consistently towing with it and doing woods trails almost daily. Im shocked its handled as good as it has. Im running a really low gear ratio though as not to put a whole bunch of torque through the gears. My setup only does like 15mph max before the valve springs float. Its been very good this far.

It would.....im ok with where its at....the kart doubles as a towing device moving around crap....i only have bump tight trails too....doesnt need to be fast for me! But yeah....making that one smaller would b helpful. Better ground clearance too!!!!!

#40 sprockets and a #420 chain. My dirtbikes use the 420 cahin and i had a nice new oring one laying around. Im not super sure of all the pitch measurements but google a #420 and the main difference is the width of the chain. Its considerably larger than a #40 chain. Off memory....i have a 10 tooth on the converter output shaft to a 20 tooth on the input to the gearbox....then i go from another 10tooth output shaft on gearbox to a 60tooth on the axle. With 22" tires...... Way over 50:1 gear reduction. It wasnt built for speed. My max is maybe 15mph. I built it more for working and towing around my property. Lmk if u have any other questions. Will try and help out!

All my sprockets are #40 sprockets with a #420 chain

@@myskiis2fast4u Appreciate the response. Learning more about chains & pitch, #40 gear with 420 chains seems like right the way to go, nice. I'm guessing you changed out that axle sprocket? I believe I have just about the same buggy/kart as you, a Chinese GK-01 150cc originally... I'm gonna swap out that metric 530 31-T axle gear with a #40, realizing I'll have to machine a flat-plate sprocket. I'm basically mimicking you over here haha. Nice project.

I dunno what mine started with. My neighbor gave it to me...and someone gave it to her. It was an abortion of non working parts....had a 30 series converter and like a 12:1 gear ratio. It would shred a belt in about 3 seconds. The ONLY thing i actually kept was the rear axle and sprocket and 420cc motor. The rest was built. So things ive learned....that swing arm is super cheesey. Definitely put atleast a middle cross member in it to keep the swing arm from spreading. My pillow blocks would literally walk out the swing arm inches until i tied it together in the middle. U can buy all these sprockets online. I was looking for email receipts to try and point u but i cant find them!!! The rear sprocket hub is prettty generic. I would start with set screws first but then u will need to weld it in. The 420 has some torque! I made a few other videos too...one showing how to grind down that china gear.box input shaft to .625" and another in the 40 series converter primary clutch springs. The 420 i have hates to idle. I think the flywheel / magneto too light. I had to use the heavey weight red primary springs with the stock weight china rollers. Setup works good for me. My idle is stable and i can shift that gearbox. Lmk if u need any other pics or videos...... It definitley was a project getting the setup reliable......

blastled.com/40-series-driver-driven/predator-420-cc-420cc-go-kart-mini-bike-torque-converter-1-35-40-41-12t-10t

You have to choose your shaft sizes you want.

I wound up buying an MDI 2 GM diag box and software and read the torque sensor was constantly calling for left hand toruqe. I tried calibrating it dozens of times with tie rods off and on and no change. I ultimately had to replace the steering rack to get the torque sensor that is like epoxied in place....you cant just get the steering torque sensor......

Yea that’s GM for you. Buying a steering rack for 300 bucks locally and crossing my fingers that fixes the issue. Got C0176, C0460 and C047A after hitting a pothole. Dealership wants close to $1,500. Really appreciate the help and happy 4th of July.

Yea....do u hear a whurring whizzing noise??? Ive had the belt strip out on another car from hitting a curb....if you hear a loud buzzing noise and the wheel has hit the steering lock end point and you still hear a motor tunning it might just be the belt. The steering rack will have a new belt in it anyway.

Yes...that torque sensor is only serviceable through the steering rack. I wound up buying an MDI2 diag interface and the gm software to see that the torque sensor was request left torqu input 100%. I had to replace the steering rack to get the stupid torque sensor.....i tried to see if the torque sensor could be swapped and it didnt seem possible to do. Make sure u check your wiring to that sensor. There was a recall for complete loss of power steering because that harness gets chafed......good luck!

Border line.....id personally look up a 44 series converter for something that heavy

Needed the extra gear reduction....

Gearing is definitely low!!! Im shocked it doesnt wheelie!... It pull uphill in the woods hard though and is decent for crawling..... I dont have much runway for any real top speed!!!

Thats insane.....man....you prolly need like 100:1 gear reduction..... The gear box is so far holding up to what id consider moderate abuse and usage. I tow around shitty pee filled hay in with the car every weekend and it does it without a problem. I think the weak link in the gear box is that super long input shaft. Theres no way this box will hold up to having a clutch on it. You need that input gear against the housing as far in as u can get it. Good luck

Its been fine for me....i leak a tiny bit of oil out of the vent. Have about 50 hard hours on it and my only complaint is still around the primary clutch....still not enough weight / idle combo for the ghetto freight motor. Good luck with your build!