Auto Body Solder: Tinning and Leading Repair | TIG Time
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- Опубликовано: 28 апр 2016
- Leading is quickly becoming a lost art with more and more people opting to use bondo and other synthetics in auto body restoration. In this episode of TIG Time we show you how to use the tinning and leading process to repair thin spot in your auto body work.
Step one: Sand the area you are going to be working on
It is important to get the area you will be working on down to bare metal. Be sure that you sand down an area about 6 inches around your designated work area.
Step 2: Prep the area with tinning butter
The area that was just sanded now needs to be prepped with tinning butter. The 70 / 30 lead sticks that you will be using will only stick to areas that are prepped with the tinning butter, so it is important to apply it liberally to all areas to be "leaded".
Step 3: Pre-heat the area
After you've applies the tinning butter, heat it up to a temperature where it begins to bubble.
Step 4: Apply lead
Apply the lead and melt it into the low areas. Flatten and spread out the lead while it is still hot with your wooden paddle, applying more if needed.
Step 5: File and finish
Once you are done spreading the elad, let it cool and file it to a flat surface. Once you have filed it down, you can take a 50-grit grinder and clean it up a bit. After you clean it up with the 50-grit, you can take a finer grit dual action sander to it and feather the edges in preparation for primer.
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Fascinating. Father was a sheet metal worker who was an apprentice around the time the Ford was made. I still have many of his tools and didn't know how things like the rasp you showed were used. The video was a nice informer on the kinds of jobs he used the tools for and some of the work he would have done. Thank you
When the brown forms on top of the tinning butter it is supposed to be wiped away. This keeps the burnt up flux from getting trapped in the lead and creating porosity. Not the worst video on leading but certainly not the most detailed.
Yeh a bit of a mess
Tinning butter is zink cloride aka. ZnCl. You can usually get it as plumbers solder.
Thank you for showing this technique. i have never leaded! but i did try it on my car that i am restoring. the car had two small scratches and dents that we did hammer out but thier was an area that we did our best on hammerring out. we cleaned the area, sanding it out and we then leaded the area and grinded it and sanded it to a perfect straight condition. all i did was take my time and worked it and it looks great. NO BONDO!!! Very happy with the results and after we painted the car with the factory color and with single stage acrylic enamel, just like it was sprayed originally it came out straight!!. you can not see the repair, just a straight area!!! again thanks for the education of an art that would have died if not for folks like you putting it up on utube to educate guys like me who still believe in the original ways. sometimes i do believe that corporations have done an extremely fine job in marketing and convincing people that the more product you buy to make the repair is the right way!, amd the only way!!! I disagree with that. I will from now on lead all repairs that i feel need to be leaded!!! thanks again!!
Always wished I could do body work - the right way with lead. - Never knew it was this easy!
I'm not an arm chair critic, etc. But seriously this video should be taken down. This wasn't tinned properly as others have said. The worst thing about this demo is he made no attempt or mention of neutralizing the acid. I hope other people haven't used the techniques in this video, without neutralizing the acid you are almost guaranteed to have paint failures and premature rust issues! I am an excavating contractor, but I also grew up in a family owned body shop and own it myself now. I'm saying this, because when I was a kid, I remember seeing this done on a regular basis. I will admit I am no expert at leading but I know for a fact the techniques shown here are more than wrong!
Remove this video!!! the tinning process is incorrect you left all the acid to mix with the lead! WIPE it with dry rag and heat again wipe with wet rag to keep out contamination. :(
Im not sure if your making more content or its just showing up more in my feed but love the videos keep them coming.
I love seeing how to do things like this
Another great leading video to add to this content is made by SAR from Oregon. With some acid and lead bars, no need for the butter mess. I do like the leading process, overall it takes less time.
There is a 1940's US army film showing leading dents on battered Jeeps, they were using damp sacking for wiping the solder, some of which looked an inch deep. The old boys used to use a mole skin for wiping solder.
I'd like to see another leading video, but on an A-Pillar. I remember my dad and I having a heck of a time when we leaded the A-Pillars of my mom's '37 Terraplane Coupe during its first restoration about 12 or so years ago after it was media blasted.We got it done, no bondo needed afterwards, all metal finished and high build primer. But you can'y go all the way to liquid on a vertical surface. We wasted a lot of lead on the shop floor getting the lead to the consistency of wet clay for it to stay stuck long enough to cool and be worked.
Wow I didn't know that process .....Thanks Don M
But you never cleaned off the metal after you melted the butter on it??
Most useful to see this technique.
U gotta wash the tinning butter with water mix with baking soda. Gotta keep it clean!!!!
What about filling two 1/4 inch holes in cab roof from light bar do I still need to butter holes 🤔
Old school techniques like this are still good! You don't breathe any significant amount of lead vapour because you don't heat the job that hot- it's not like burning paint off!!! Plus if you use bondo what about he solvent fumes/vapours? A good worker will recover the shavings, remelt them and use it again-try doing that with bondo dust-which isn't good for the lungs anyway.
This is like soldering electronics, can use solder paste (although it is surely way too expensive to waste on cars). Obviously the flux must be washed off before paining, and before adding the 70/30 lead/tin. What was done in the video should be removed with heat (fluxed copper braid works well) and reapplied.
You have some interesting video subjects,ye---t I always feel like I missed something or that something was left out. A vague empty ,undefined feeling. Probably lack of observation/listening on my part.
when you tin the area it needs to be clean of the residue and bright shinny so that any acid residue can be neutralized but not a bad video and it is a lost art not to many try it .
Typically, the problem with 'Bondo' is that it's made of polyester resin and Talc as the filler or binder. Talc absorbs water or moisture like crazy. If you ever wet sanded a bondo repair you can see this. This is usually why these kinds of filler repair will bubble a few years after the bodywork, even if it's a 'show' car you keep inside out of the elements. I would prefer a 'lead' repair which even the factories were using in the '70's or a product called 'All Metal' which uses aluminum powder instead of talc and is way more moisture resistant.
What is your welding table made of, I like the layout of all the holes? I presume you made it yourself ?
+Rprecision It is a Tab and SLot welding table. They make all different sizes and the price is right. You can check them out at weldtables.com/
tinning butter needs to be cleaned and neutralised after application, if left like this, expect to see the acid affect the paint layers on top. Stick to welding bud as this process is far from correct!
pretty cool but why not fill it in with a weld like mig then grind it down thank you please keep the videos coming
that much welding would warp the panel
Instead of using the metal file, couldn't you used a small grinder to shape it faster? I'm just curious, never seen this done before.
The problem using an abrasive on soft metals is that they tend to gum up the grinding wheel.
shoulda clean off the area after the butter was out on with a copper pad
I imagine if one had to do it vertically it would be much harder. Not ever sure how?
control your heat input, don't let the lead go liquid and just keep it in the past transition zone to paddle it. Yeas, definitely harder on vertical surfaces!
Thanks, I do understand what you are saying. :-)
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Best leading demo by a welder I think I've ever seen! Now to find a paint and body man! ;-)
This leading demonstration makes me cringe. When did you actually "TIN" the metal??
how much of the video did you actually watch?
And lead in over all of the contaminants the tinning flux leached out...
Not to much TIG time in this video !
There's plenty of car repair / hot rod channels on RUclips ........but very few good TIG welding channels.
Let me know if I need to unsubscribe ?
Stick to welding
Whoa what a mess..
better watch some other videos before you attempt this.. missing a bunch of steps.. nice guy though..