Thanks for the tour, Matt. I love seeing professionals do what they do. I Love that you guys take something that would be landfilled or burned and turn it into beautiful furniture and Art. Wood is Wonderful! Your enginuity in building and modifying equipment to save money is most impressive.
"For the next 500 or 600 years." That's the perspective our ancestors had, and the way we should be thinking... Good on you both, blown away by the scale of your operation!
Holy @#$%%#$%, and all I was pining for is a bandsaw. Great video, go Canada !!! All the best to you Paul. Love your enthusiasm and respect for the wood. Thanks to you Matt for introducing Paul and Legacy Lumber.
Thank you Paul and Matt for this informative video...........I enjoy watching these kind of videos on how things are processed and made. I love the passion you both have for what mother nature produces and your creativity to make something so beautiful to cherish.
Awesome video! Great job to both of you. I work as a technician in a modern powerplant. Your vacuum kiln is as cool and sophisticated as anything we have. I will never own a sawmill in my lifetime, but I loved watching this and learning about milling! Thanks. DD
Great video, congratulations on building a great company, your enthusiasm and skill show through as you walk us through the tools, machines and wood that occupies your daily work day, great video guys.
Yes, this video is better, lol! It explains the process at a level I can actually understand it. :-) You guys have great chemistry together - that great Canadian "eh" factor, in spades!! Thanks to both of you for sharing this... Some day, when time and health allows, I will visit this place - it's only a couple hour drive from my place! :-)
You guys are great. Thanks for doing this tour. I LOVE his shop and this sawmill and kiln are amazing - really interesting to get the low-down on the processes. I wish RUclips had a "thumbs up" and a "BIG thumbs up" as well for this one. Paul - check out your local Motion Industries branch (my employer) for information about those pillow blocks and bearings. They should be able to help you with your setup. We have lots of great folks who can help you diagnose what's going on. It could be alignment, sawdust or other contaminants or some other kind of wear or stress. If you bring in your broken parts and some pictures, they'll probably be able to help diagnose what the problem is.
Despite your annoying laugh I subscribed today. Mainly because I loved the other ship video with Paul and this one today. I love seeing the old tools and how they do things and the equip they use
Not bad for a canuck😊. Oh boy Matt, you have gotta have one of those vacuum kilns! Just got back from a road trip tour of the great lakes. Niagara Falls, Sudbury and Sault Ste. Marie. Beautiful country.
Really interesting and as a (UK) woodturner great to learn more about the milling and seasoning of wood. I just love to see the brilliant wood you have and also great to see the reverence which you show it. Keep up the good work. John
From my time in the technical department of a large bearing company I can assure you that any more than two bearings on the one shaft is an absolute NO-NO. It does not matter how careful you are in trying to get them to align the simple fact is that as long as your rear points to the ground you will never do so reliably enough to guarantee good bearing life - particular with these relatively crude Plummer blocks and the mounting of them on mill finish steel weldments. With more than two the bearings will always fight each other and the parasitic loads thus induced will lead to shaft and or bearing failures. The fact that you have already had a shaft failure and then on upgrading the shaft a plumber block failure should be enough to convince you of this. Two bearings will outlast three, but if you feel that just two of the current bearings are insufficient (loads here are actually quite light here if its done properly) then increase the size of bearings (and shaft) but use only two . Personally I would just remove the middle bearing and see how it went - monitor how warm the bearings get. A further point, do NOT lock both bearings to the shaft. The shaft must be free to expand lengthwise in use and slip slightly (longitudinally) in one of the bearings inner rings. If you lock both of them you can get parasitic thrust loads that will destroy the bearings. I would suggest locking the blade end one only and perhaps providing a groove in the shaft for the grubscrew on the other bearings inner ring so the ring can slip but not rotate (fit should still be quite snug). Also do NOT over grease these bearings - filling them with grease as many are wont to do simply causes the churning of the grease within the bearing leading to heat build up and charring of the grease - end of bearing! The grease they come with is sufficient for life - throw away the grease gun, remove the grease nipples and plug the holes - we used to as a routine measure before we sold these bearings. In short, throw away the middle bearing you will not regret it, and Matt you need to do the same on your saw.... Martin
Olfoundryman I had no idea that three bearings was a faux-pas, but it makes complete sense. It’s like expecting a 4 leg stool to never wobble. Fantastic foundry videos, and bearing advice too.
hehe I can hear our old assembly shop leader now. "I will put that together right after i mount a fifth tire on my car. I sure would like something else to keep in alignment. Job security is way more important than sanity"
Great video. I built a chainsaw mill with a 22hp Briggs and Stratton that cuts 39" wide, and there is nothing more fun than cutting slabs. But I also ran into bearing problems. One thing to make sure of, is that you only lock down the set screws on the bearing closest to your drive pulley and leave the other ones out (called floating the bearings). When the shaft is turning it actually builds enough heat to grow in length slightly and if the set screws are tightened on all bearings it will create side load on the bearing and can cause overheating and premature failure. Hope this helps. Happy Sawing!!
Thanks for the logging tour Matt! Paul, May I suggest that you use stickers/wedges between slabs when you cut to reduce the friction on the blade and therefore reduce the axial loading on that spindle. The other thing is to increase the size of the wheels to 30:1 (minimum). The diameter of the wheel to the thickness of the spindle at the bearing. (btw that is elevator safety code, if I recall correctly). You mentioned, ' respect the wood', I am with you, and appreciate your efforts!! Thanks again !
GREAT video! Wow! It's hard to believe 'wood' can be such a science. Looks like you have the entire process down pat. Your ROI for the vacuum kiln is definitely worth the investment - - 3 weeks vs. 3 years. Incredible process. Hope you inspire Matt to duplicate the operation you have there in Toronto to a location near him in St. Paul. THANK YOU!
Wow, my girlfriend wants to go apple picking in the fall, maybe I can talk her into a trip to Canada to go slab picking instead. It's kinda the same thing right?
There is a reason that they make shear pins and shear keys. It’s a lot easier and cheaper to replace the shear key than a shaft or bearings. There is so much equipment and infrastructure involved. That being said I love watching y’alls videos.
Wow 9 minutes in and already I’ve learned a lot of great tips... and now I have a use for old microwaves going to turn my shed into a dryer , a wall of old microwaves and a shop vac stuck threw the wall. boom cost effective 👌
Hi Paul, i work on fans-air handling units when they have problems like you are having with your shafts and barrings. A couple things you can try, when you go to tighten down your bearings snug up one side first and see if the other side lifts off the base, if so then shim it up with ether shims or the black metal strapping works good too, your base is crowned which will cause heat in your bearings and burn them out cause it's distorting there shape when you tighten them down. Another helpful thing to do is while assembling it, keep spinning the shaft by hand between each step, if it stops spinning free when you tighten something that's probably the problem. last is when you've got it back together run it up to speed with out the blade on, check if you've got vibration by putting your hand on the bearings, i've seen and i have balanced band saw wheels for cutting granite before and seen them and pulleys not balanced from the factory. I hope that helps, Joe
The microwave concept in the kiln reminds me how my Dad used to dry bowl blanks and other small pieces of wood in the kitchen microwave, occasionally setting them on fire if they were nuked for too long!
What's your first cut on small logs, do you get a disc or half plank. Something like a 2x3 very first slab or smaller. At time 17:54 that is a brilliant example of what I mean, I'd love to have a few bits, a disc or two would be good, will offer £10-15 apiece
Great video, introduced me to a drying process I had never heard of. You all have a way of making sawmilling interesting! Thank you for such good content. Mark
The 3 bearing set-ups are usually a not so good way, but it happen's. I know you checked alignment, but did you check with a dial indicator? Just from video, looks to me that your mounting plate needs to be at least twice as thick and more guests to stop flexing. In my 35 yrs. working on manufacturing lines, you most likely are getting flex and causing miss-alignment. There for breaking shafts and what's, heating up bearings and causing failures. They do have a lot of awesome bearings out on the market that would probably be better. But a Mag. Base and dial indicator would be where I started. Hope this helps. Love seeing young guys like yourself making a living with what most can't imagine!! Good luck.
Hey matt. I made a desk and for that i used douglass slabs. I got it from a local sawmill company and i needed to dry it myself. It went okay but i had gotten some cracks and a bit of mold. I dryed it inside so should I nexttime do it outside. And could you give me a couple more tips to prevent the mold and the cracks.
When the slab has been vacuumed dried will it re absorb moisture? I am on the Oregon coast and our natural wood moisture content is high. Would I have to keep my dried slabs in say a conex with a dehumidifier or something of that nature to keep them in the same dryness state as if they just came out of the kiln. Great video and Thanks
I would assume that you are getting fatigue failures in you shaft. Reducing the stress in the shaft with higher strength material and or a larger cross-section will help but you may be able to improve it with more bearings positioned to minimize the bending moment or you may have a stress riser resulting from the geometry of the shaft.
For the those pillow block bearings it could be a bunch of different factors that could lead them to fail. saw dust might make its way inside and increase friction, which will cause them to seize. it could also be that the force of thrust on to the bearing which these might not be designed for. id suggest to get some sealed Angular Contact Double Row Bearing, the are made for high radial and thrust. Mcmaster might have them not positive on it, but Bearings Canada will likely.
Re bearings: I agree with Michael, another problem source is the bearing mount. Even though the bearing bores are aligned at no load, they might not be remaining so under dynamic loading. Take a look at the mount for the outside bearing. That light angle will twist and flutter like a leaf in a hurricane under a light load. Re blades: evidently your motor is overloading the blade. The easiest solution is to use an ammeter to monitor the motor load. With a steady feed rate, as the blade wears the motor current draw will increase. Knowing what the motor loading is, "all" you have to do match feed rate to motor load. After determining a maximum (feed rate x current point), use that as your do not exceed point. Either slow down the feed rate or change the blade before it self destructs. Only you can determine that point, however, you will know when you have arrived at that point. Hope I haven't been pontificating and this helps, Rollie
I'm going to remove the front bearing, but I actually disagre then mounts where the bearing mount are very strong. I don't think the issues is coming from there but i'll keep that in mind. We are able to read the load through the VFD, we also are more concerned about a nice flat cut so the feed rate is pretty slow all the time.
Didn't realize you were running through a VFD, that makes it easier. Determine a motor current lower than full load, start out with a new or freshly sharpened blade and saw at your usual rate until you notice an unsatisfactory cut quality, note your current draw. Yes, this point will vary some what depending on the wood specie and green/dry condition. However, it will give you a point of reference for where you are. You should be able to set an alarm in your parameters at this draw. An easily visible strobe or obnoxious sounding horn should do it. Most VFDs have a relay output that will work just fine for this. I know you know this, however, I'm going to say it anyway: Do not have the alarm shut the saw down. Hope this helps.
I love woodworking/sawing videos, but as an electrician, that 20kW microwave drying kiln blew me away. I watched Paul's video on it also. That's a nice bit of machinery.
Great video ! One question about the drying, since he said that you could damage the wood, and my question is: does it concern the structures of the cells in the wood, that also transports the moist in the tree ? In other words, too much and fast transportation of moist could destroy the cells? Anyway,thanks from N.Norway. :-)
Hello Mett. .da this is the drying chamber with a vacuum about the cathoric I wrote to you in which you can quickly dry your cookies. I have to build it now. good luck.
Heat is the killer of bearings. Back track the cause of the heat. Alignment between the belt pulley and shaft, overspeed or wrong parts for the application. The balance of the blade pulley and tension could be suspect too. The fact that you were snapping shafts prior may lead you back. Good luck.
I couldn't see it very well, but I wondered if the surface those bearings are mounted to is stout enough. Maybe it is flexing under load and causing incongruent forces.
When you increase motor power you also increase force on the bearings. Especially the one closer to the blade. The bearing that is in there is probably designed to the old motor. It wears out quickly and breaks. I’d suggest to increase bearing size. As said before, two bearings is the correct way to do it.
On your friends big mill, I have used CNC equipment over the course of about 18 years. You may think 1.5-2" for a shaft and bearing is good but that is nothing. The killer is vibration. The ball screws for crankshaft making equipment are about 3-4" and the bearings are not those Tractor Supply bearings. Everything is twisting, shaking with that setup.
I agree with other comments that the mounts and everything else has to be looked at. Home made for production work is dicey. Buy another production mill that is all ready producing, move it. Sell the one you have. I have been in business before too.
Love to see people like Paul growing a successful company through their passion and knowledge. Thanks for sharing this, Matt. I sure learned a lot.
Thanks for the tour, Matt. I love seeing professionals do what they do. I Love that you guys take something that would be landfilled or burned and turn it into beautiful furniture and Art. Wood is Wonderful!
Your enginuity in building and modifying equipment to save money is most impressive.
Thanks Gregg
So glad you went for a visit Matt.....awesome information. Thanks for sharing. Excellent narration by Paul.
Thanks
"For the next 500 or 600 years." That's the perspective our ancestors had, and the way we should be thinking... Good on you both, blown away by the scale of your operation!
Matt, an impressive operation and an awesome tour of your equipment. Thanks so much for the tour.
Please keep making videos! Love to see the inner-workings of your business, machinery, and what you deal with on a day to day. Very cool!
A field of slabs! Saw it. And they will come! Ha. Great video boys. Thx for taking the time to create this. Very interesting.
Holy @#$%%#$%, and all I was pining for is a bandsaw. Great video, go Canada !!! All the best to you Paul. Love your enthusiasm and respect for the wood. Thanks to you Matt for introducing Paul and Legacy Lumber.
Thanks for watching
Thank you Paul and Matt for this informative video...........I enjoy watching these kind of videos on how things are processed and made. I love the passion you both have for what mother nature produces and your creativity to make something so beautiful to cherish.
Fantastic walk-though by Paul! Thanks Matt! You have cool friends.
Awesome video! Great job to both of you. I work as a technician in a modern powerplant. Your vacuum kiln is as cool and sophisticated as anything we have. I will never own a sawmill in my lifetime, but I loved watching this and learning about milling! Thanks. DD
Great video, congratulations on building a great company, your enthusiasm and skill show through as you walk us through the tools, machines and wood that occupies your daily work day, great video guys.
I am humbled by that gorgeous lumber...
Yes, this video is better, lol! It explains the process at a level I can actually understand it. :-)
You guys have great chemistry together - that great Canadian "eh" factor, in spades!!
Thanks to both of you for sharing this... Some day, when time and health allows, I will visit this place - it's only a couple hour drive from my place! :-)
Now, that was an impressive video! I had no idea how complex drying wood was. Thank you you for sharing your time with us.
Great video Matt! What an awesome day and place to tour! Also what a great tour guide! Thanks so much!
One of the best vids i've seen. Awesome. What a way to craft out a living.
3 years later it's still a great video. Bet Matt was a tad bit envious. I was!
You guys are great. Thanks for doing this tour. I LOVE his shop and this sawmill and kiln are amazing - really interesting to get the low-down on the processes. I wish RUclips had a "thumbs up" and a "BIG thumbs up" as well for this one. Paul - check out your local Motion Industries branch (my employer) for information about those pillow blocks and bearings. They should be able to help you with your setup. We have lots of great folks who can help you diagnose what's going on. It could be alignment, sawdust or other contaminants or some other kind of wear or stress. If you bring in your broken parts and some pictures, they'll probably be able to help diagnose what the problem is.
Thanks
as a disinterested party i'd vouch for motion industries, they're pretty good. used them a work a few years ago with a very large industrial fan
Despite your annoying laugh I subscribed today. Mainly because I loved the other ship video with Paul and this one today. I love seeing the old tools and how they do things and the equip they use
Not bad for a canuck😊.
Oh boy Matt, you have gotta have one of those vacuum kilns!
Just got back from a road trip tour of the great lakes. Niagara Falls, Sudbury and Sault Ste. Marie. Beautiful country.
Really interesting and as a (UK) woodturner great to learn more about the milling and seasoning of wood. I just love to see the brilliant wood you have and also great to see the reverence which you show it. Keep up the good work. John
Awesome video. The vacuum kiln is fascinating.
Thanks, Matt and Paul, I found this to be very interesting! I wish I had gotten into this when I was younger. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for watching
the saws are cool.. that kiln is awesome!
this was a grand tour , love the shows
learned a lot. thanks paul and matt.
Thank you both for all of this information and inspiration.
Men after my own heart.
From my time in the technical department of a large bearing company I can assure you that any more than two bearings on the one shaft is an absolute NO-NO. It does not matter how careful you are in trying to get them to align the simple fact is that as long as your rear points to the ground you will never do so reliably enough to guarantee good bearing life - particular with these relatively crude Plummer blocks and the mounting of them on mill finish steel weldments. With more than two the bearings will always fight each other and the parasitic loads thus induced will lead to shaft and or bearing failures. The fact that you have already had a shaft failure and then on upgrading the shaft a plumber block failure should be enough to convince you of this. Two bearings will outlast three, but if you feel that just two of the current bearings are insufficient (loads here are actually quite light here if its done properly) then increase the size of bearings (and shaft) but use only two . Personally I would just remove the middle bearing and see how it went - monitor how warm the bearings get. A further point, do NOT lock both bearings to the shaft. The shaft must be free to expand lengthwise in use and slip slightly (longitudinally) in one of the bearings inner rings. If you lock both of them you can get parasitic thrust loads that will destroy the bearings. I would suggest locking the blade end one only and perhaps providing a groove in the shaft for the grubscrew on the other bearings inner ring so the ring can slip but not rotate (fit should still be quite snug). Also do NOT over grease these bearings - filling them with grease as many are wont to do simply causes the churning of the grease within the bearing leading to heat build up and charring of the grease - end of bearing! The grease they come with is sufficient for life - throw away the grease gun, remove the grease nipples and plug the holes - we used to as a routine measure before we sold these bearings. In short, throw away the middle bearing you will not regret it, and Matt you need to do the same on your saw.... Martin
Olfoundryman I had no idea that three bearings was a faux-pas, but it makes complete sense. It’s like expecting a 4 leg stool to never wobble. Fantastic foundry videos, and bearing advice too.
hehe I can hear our old assembly shop leader now. "I will put that together right after i mount a fifth tire on my car. I sure would like something else to keep in alignment. Job security is way more important than sanity"
Not to be argumentative, OFM, but there is a long history of more then one bearing on one shaft in automotive engineering for over a century.
@@rickowens4397 please reread we are talking about more than 2 on a 3 foot span.
Great video. I built a chainsaw mill with a 22hp Briggs and Stratton that cuts 39" wide, and there is nothing more fun than cutting slabs. But I also ran into bearing problems. One thing to make sure of, is that you only lock down the set screws on the bearing closest to your drive pulley and leave the other ones out (called floating the bearings). When the shaft is turning it actually builds enough heat to grow in length slightly and if the set screws are tightened on all bearings it will create side load on the bearing and can cause overheating and premature failure. Hope this helps. Happy Sawing!!
Interesting!
One word. Amazing! Also two words. I’m jealous.
Thanks for the logging tour Matt!
Paul,
May I suggest that you use stickers/wedges between slabs when you cut to reduce the friction on the blade and therefore reduce the axial loading on that spindle. The other thing is to increase the size of the wheels to 30:1 (minimum). The diameter of the wheel to the thickness of the spindle at the bearing. (btw that is elevator safety code, if I recall correctly).
You mentioned, ' respect the wood', I am with you, and appreciate your efforts!!
Thanks again !
Thanks for the tips
Thx to both of you...
Would love to spend a day here just wandering around.
So informative fantastic job wish I was 38 years younger Love the information as to how it all works
That was a great video! 👍🏻 a lot of information! You did a awesome job explaining it Paul! Thank you and Matt for sharing! 👏
Hi Matt, Excellent tour round one of my favourite instagrams and youtube's. Makes me very jealous I need a bandsaw!!!
Great job Matt!!!
GREAT video! Wow! It's hard to believe 'wood' can be such a science. Looks like you have the entire process down pat. Your ROI for the vacuum kiln is definitely worth the investment - - 3 weeks vs. 3 years. Incredible process. Hope you inspire Matt to duplicate the operation you have there in Toronto to a location near him in St. Paul. THANK YOU!
I live in his area and have been meaning to visit the retail store. Thanks for the video
Wow, my girlfriend wants to go apple picking in the fall, maybe I can talk her into a trip to Canada to go slab picking instead. It's kinda the same thing right?
The same only better
Except for drinking "slab cider"!
Interesting
Make Brooklyn you could do both while up here
Close enough
You can have automatic lubricaton on the pillow bearings. There are also bearings available with cooling.
There is a reason that they make shear pins and shear keys. It’s a lot easier and cheaper to replace the shear key than a shaft or bearings. There is so much equipment and infrastructure involved. That being said I love watching y’alls videos.
Man. This guy is great!
Man I miss my woodshop teacher from high school.
But this is better actually.
Wow 9 minutes in and already I’ve learned a lot of great tips... and now I have a use for old microwaves going to turn my shed into a dryer , a wall of old microwaves and a shop vac stuck threw the wall. boom cost effective 👌
That’s a great idea on expanding the cut range on the woodmizer. How bout a video on that process? Beats buying a new sawmill.
Check out my channel I do have a video or 2 about it
Hi Paul, i work on fans-air handling units when they have problems like you are having with your shafts and barrings. A couple things you can try, when you go to tighten down your bearings snug up one side first and see if the other side lifts off the base, if so then shim it up with ether shims or the black metal strapping works good too, your base is crowned which will cause heat in your bearings and burn them out cause it's distorting there shape when you tighten them down. Another helpful thing to do is while assembling it, keep spinning the shaft by hand between each step, if it stops spinning free when you tighten something that's probably the problem. last is when you've got it back together run it up to speed with out the blade on, check if you've got vibration by putting your hand on the bearings, i've seen and i have balanced band saw wheels for cutting granite before and seen them and pulleys not balanced from the factory.
I hope that helps,
Joe
Very interesting and very informative. It looks like there is someone with more passion for the wood and woodcraft than Matt. Who'd of thunk?
We are pretty equal
The microwave concept in the kiln reminds me how my Dad used to dry bowl blanks and other small pieces of wood in the kitchen microwave, occasionally setting them on fire if they were nuked for too long!
Similar just missing the vacuum feature
Keep up the gr8 work u know what u r talking about u learnt with experience and r still doing that
Very interesting and well done. Thanks to both for sharing.
Super fascinating that kiln. Fantastic.
This was very interesting Matt. I had just heard about vacuum drying and it was great to see and hear about the process.
Thanks for watching
That was rather interesting. Thanks for the video!
What's your first cut on small logs, do you get a disc or half plank.
Something like a 2x3 very first slab or smaller.
At time 17:54 that is a brilliant example of what I mean, I'd love to have a few bits, a disc or two would be good, will offer £10-15 apiece
10:28 Good on you, Paul! X)
(I know, a year late, but hopefully you'll still see it)
Great tour, Thank's for the share. Brian UK
Thanks for watching
Very cool! Thank you Matt, and thank you Paul! Slaboriffic!
Thanks for watching
Very good talk. You two seem like pretty good chums
Great video, introduced me to a drying process I had never heard of. You all have a way of making sawmilling interesting! Thank you for such good content. Mark
The 3 bearing set-ups are usually a not so good way, but it happen's. I know you checked alignment, but did you check with a dial indicator? Just from video, looks to me that your mounting plate needs to be at least twice as thick and more guests to stop flexing. In my 35 yrs. working on manufacturing lines, you most likely are getting flex and causing miss-alignment. There for breaking shafts and what's, heating up bearings and causing failures. They do have a lot of awesome bearings out on the market that would probably be better. But a Mag. Base and dial indicator would be where I started. Hope this helps. Love seeing young guys like yourself making a living with what most can't imagine!! Good luck.
Hey matt. I made a desk and for that i used douglass slabs. I got it from a local sawmill company and i needed to dry it myself. It went okay but i had gotten some cracks and a bit of mold. I dryed it inside so should I nexttime do it outside. And could you give me a couple more tips to prevent the mold and the cracks.
Boy that vacuum kiln is quite the interesting item.
When the slab has been vacuumed dried will it re absorb moisture? I am on the Oregon coast and our natural wood moisture content is high. Would I have to keep my dried slabs in say a conex with a dehumidifier or something of that nature to keep them in the same dryness state as if they just came out of the kiln. Great video and Thanks
Yes, the kiln does not alter the hygroscopic nature of the wood
I would assume that you are getting fatigue failures in you shaft. Reducing the stress in the shaft with higher strength material and or a larger cross-section will help but you may be able to improve it with more bearings positioned to minimize the bending moment or you may have a stress riser resulting from the geometry of the shaft.
Are bearings set up so that one is fixed and the other floating? These metals would heat up expand and contract at different rates causing stress.
For the those pillow block bearings it could be a bunch of different factors that could lead them to fail. saw dust might make its way inside and increase friction, which will cause them to seize. it could also be that the force of thrust on to the bearing which these might not be designed for. id suggest to get some sealed Angular Contact Double Row Bearing, the are made for high radial and thrust. Mcmaster might have them not positive on it, but Bearings Canada will likely.
Yes i'm now upgrading to heavy duty bearings, these are medium duty.
@@CanadianWoodworks ... Olfoundryman knows his shiznit as well.
Never heard of the term boule and it was interesting to learn how it differs from a flitch.
Re bearings: I agree with Michael, another problem source is the bearing mount. Even though the bearing bores are aligned at no load, they might not be remaining so under dynamic loading.
Take a look at the mount for the outside bearing. That light angle will twist and flutter like a leaf in a hurricane under a light load.
Re blades: evidently your motor is overloading the blade. The easiest solution is to use an ammeter to monitor the motor load. With a steady feed rate, as the blade wears the motor current draw will increase. Knowing what the motor loading is, "all" you have to do match feed rate to motor load. After determining a maximum (feed rate x current point), use that as your do not exceed point. Either slow down the feed rate or change the blade before it self destructs. Only you can determine that point, however, you will know when you have arrived at that point.
Hope I haven't been pontificating and this helps,
Rollie
I'm going to remove the front bearing, but I actually disagre then mounts where the bearing mount are very strong. I don't think the issues is coming from there but i'll keep that in mind. We are able to read the load through the VFD, we also are more concerned about a nice flat cut so the feed rate is pretty slow all the time.
Didn't realize you were running through a VFD, that makes it easier. Determine a motor current lower than full load, start out with a new or freshly sharpened blade and saw at your usual rate until you notice an unsatisfactory cut quality, note your current draw. Yes, this point will vary some what depending on the wood specie and green/dry condition. However, it will give you a point of reference for where you are. You should be able to set an alarm in your parameters at this draw. An easily visible strobe or obnoxious sounding horn should do it. Most VFDs have a relay output that will work just fine for this. I know you know this, however, I'm going to say it anyway: Do not have the alarm shut the saw down.
Hope this helps.
Thanks, suggestions noted!
Thank you Matt for a very informative vid.
What a awesome video really wild information on the vacuum kiln. Take care guys.
Thanks for watching
The part about his kiln was very interesting.
Hello, I was looking at your huge log mill and I think you may a have a cavitation problem that is heating up and warping your pillar blocks.
try putting a shoftstart on your motor. This may reduce stress on your pillow block during startup
So, does he not end seal any of his logs because it would ruin the effect of kiln?
Or does he seal and end cut fresh?
Thanks Matt, Really interesting guy. You should pitch him to speak at Fine Woodworking Live. Maybe Vic Telsolin could endorse the recommendation eh!
Awesome video!
I love woodworking/sawing videos, but as an electrician, that 20kW microwave drying kiln blew me away. I watched Paul's video on it also. That's a nice bit of machinery.
Good stuff gentlemen!
“Out”, “about” love it. 😃
Great video ! One question about the drying, since he said that you could damage the wood, and my question is: does it concern the structures of the cells in the wood, that also transports the moist in the tree ? In other words, too much and fast transportation of moist could destroy the cells? Anyway,thanks from N.Norway. :-)
It is possible to honey comb the wood if you dry thicker wood to fast, by too fast it is all based on the temperature of the wood and vacuum setting
Great video
Hello Mett. .da this is the drying chamber with a vacuum about the cathoric I wrote to you in which you can quickly dry your cookies. I have to build it now. good luck.
Cookies will still split!
Cooks saw makes extra heavy duty drive wheel shafts and bearings for the big saws .
Mine are holding up well .
Awesome stuff! 👍👊
Like that salvage.
i wish everyone was Canadian
Fascinating!
The microwave range are in the GHz range, so it should be 6.87 GHz, not 6.87 MHz (that's HF)
Three bearings in a row is a problem. There is no point to have three bearings and they fatigue faster.
Suggestion noted I'm going back to 2
Heat is the killer of bearings. Back track the cause of the heat. Alignment between the belt pulley and shaft, overspeed or wrong parts for the application. The balance of the blade pulley and tension could be suspect too. The fact that you were snapping shafts prior may lead you back. Good luck.
I couldn't see it very well, but I wondered if the surface those bearings are mounted to is stout enough. Maybe it is flexing under load and causing incongruent forces.
When you increase motor power you also increase force on the bearings. Especially the one closer to the blade. The bearing that is in there is probably designed to the old motor. It wears out quickly and breaks. I’d suggest to increase bearing size. As said before, two bearings is the correct way to do it.
I love his shirt, wish he sold them on his site
They're rich. Is it a listed company?
If I lived close to you I'd be your best customer for top quality lumber.
very informative Matt, cool video
That's and impressive big bandsaw mill he has. Would have been nice to see it in action slicing through a good sized log.
thank you
Just curious Matt, do you know if those bearings are ball or linear type? Linear type can handle greater loads, just an FYI.
They were just ball bearing but something else must have been going on. They really shouldn’t wear out that quickly
@@mcremona Ok, was just wondering why they would have went under load, especially with three of them. Thanks.
On your friends big mill, I have used CNC equipment over the course of about 18 years. You may think 1.5-2" for a shaft and bearing is good but that is nothing. The killer is vibration. The ball screws for crankshaft making equipment are about 3-4" and the bearings are not those Tractor Supply bearings. Everything is twisting, shaking with that setup.
I agree with other comments that the mounts and everything else has to be looked at. Home made for production work is dicey. Buy another production mill that is all ready producing, move it. Sell the one you have. I have been in business before too.
See where you get your inspiration Matt.
You got it!