Great video "Very Informative"with clear easy to follow instructions, and of course all the tricks and tips that the instructions usually don't include lol, also one of the things that set your video apart, the little things that matter the most the Lighting👍 the Audio👍 and the Video👍 quality itself was very good" got to ask though how much do you charge for the installation of this kit or what is the average cost of a basic shop to install this just the install🤔
Thanks for the compliments! As far as pricing, call around and you will see that it is all over the place based on the individual shop and state that you are located in.
Thank you so much for this video man. I had a shop quote me $1,900 to install. After already spending $2,800 on the 2.5" Gamechanger kit, that was a tough pill to swallow. You went into a lot of detail and gave me the confidence to do it myself. Saved me some money and now I know more about my Jeep. Keep up the good work
This is the lift I PLAN for my JKU. YOUR VIDEO WAS STR8 FORWARD INFORMATIVE AND NO NONSENSE ABOUT WHAT SOMEONE CAN EXPECT TO DEAL WITH. I LOOK FORWARD TO INSTALLING MY LIFT ON MY OWN WITH SUCH AN EXCELLENT VIDEO TO GUIDE ME. THANKS FOR THIS. TRULY A BOOST IN CONFIDENCE FOR ME IN THIS ENDEAVOR.
Installing my 3.5 GC this weekend. Doing ball joints and driveshafts also. Really appreciate your videos. Sure I'll be going back and forth all weekend lol
Great video, and thank you. One thing about the Metalcloak instructions: NOT ONLY DO THEY LEAVE OUT A LOT OF PERTINENT AND IMPORTANT DETAILS, BUT THE SPECS THEY OFFER ARE INCONSISTENT BETWEEN TWO DIFFERENT VERSIONS OF INSTRUCTIONS AVAILABLE ON THEIR WEBSITE. Also having trouble finding TORQUE SPECS and where to use lok tite. I'm mechanically inclined no problem but newer sheet says the control arm should be at 18 3/8" and the older instruction states 18 3/4", it leaves you in a bind because the newer spec doesn't fit. Do I need to "make if fit?" Due to poor instructions, I'm having delay after delay. So again, there are some good RUclipss out here, but big thanks to BFH Garage. Really well done and appreciated.
One thing people need to realize it's that the control arm length is a byproduct of everything being set up right. You want the arms as long as they can be without interfering with anything.
@@TheBFHGarage and THAT makes sense which is why it puzzled me that on the updated instruction, they shortened the control arm length. Thanks very much!
I've been fighting my track bar trying to move the axle over with a ratchet strap for hours. Glad I found this video or else I'd probably will be sitting there trying to move it over enough to get the bolt in.
If the axle is centered under the frame at ride height, then simply adjust the track bar until the bolt goes through. If the axle isn't centered, then a ratchet strap might be needed to get it centered first. But even then, the ratchet holds it in place so you can slide the bolt right through. Glad the video helped you out!
Thanks for the video and the nuggets of useful experience. I'm going to get the 2.5" game changer lift for my JK. I have one question, why didn't you choose to use the outboard front lower shock mounts with the rocksport shocks? Metalcloak recommended these to me because of the potential of the shock body binding against the frame when one tire is stuffed and the other is drooped. Have you found that this is not true or necessary?
You have to have the correct backspacing on the wheels or the tire will rub. In this case, the owner was still waiting on his new wheels so we put it off until they arrive.
Thanks for the video. It was very informative because it's the suspension upgrade I want to put on my JKU Rubicon. Great tips in watching out for the lines as you drop it down. Also quick question? For 5he bump stop, do you recommend the hydraulic and what size would it be. . Great video 👍
I use regular fixed bump stops, not air or hydraulic. I don't do any high speed stuff so I don't think it would benefit me enough for me to prioritize it over other needs. They are very expensive so I would suggest a lot more research to make sure they fit your true needs.
Great vid! Got a JL Rubicon. Did you need to swap/upgrade drive shaft? Metal cloak recommended to do so. Wondering if you had any issues w/o upgrading yours.
I haven't installed a Metalcloak lift on a JL yet. If MC is the one recommending it, then I would find out why by calling them directly. The main reason for a new driveshaft length is due to a lift changing the angles or length which sometimes can only be corrected with a new shaft.
Question: when installing the trackbar, is there a difference between measuring the original and adjusting the new one to the same length versus adjusting the way you demonstrated?
Yes. If you adjust to the original length, then it doesn't account for the new lift height and will cause the axle to be off center. The correct way to do it is to put the Jeep on the ground with the weight on the springs. You must ensure the axle is centered before proceeding. If not, get a ratchet strap and move it until it is centered. Once centered, you simply adjust the track bar until the bolt will easily slide through the hole. No need to measure anything. The length is a byproduct of the trackbar being installed at ride height with the axle centered.
@@Darkhorse_Actual Take a measurement between the frame rails above the axle and find the center. Then take measurements on the axle to find the center. Line up the frame center with the axle center. It may take some creative thinking/measuring to get there. You can use a plumb bob or even a laser. Think through the process and you'll see what I mean.
Any specific torque spec (ft lbs) when tightening the bolts back on upper, lower control arms, track bar, etc? I’m running Factory wheels/ AT tires 33” on a ‘21 Rubi JLU for now. Will put on 37”s in a month’s time. Would i need to install the shock mount relocation brackets for now for the fronts or rear?
Torque spec should be based on the bolt, not the lift. If you are re-using factory bolts, torque to the FSM spec. If using a larger bolt, torque to the spec for that bolt. As far as shock relocation brackets, it's not so much about tire size as it is the wheel backspacing. Factory wheels have 6" of backspacing which tucks the wheel under the fender. Find a wheel with less backspacing to run the brackets. As with all things, cycle your suspension to make sure there aren't any interference issues.
@@TheBFHGarage I appreciate all your hard work u explain everything that is needed your very. Professional if I was to have work done on my Jeep jk I would bring it to you unfortunately I’m in New York I believe your in Colorado
Some aftermarket companies say to use loctite while others suggest anti seize. I prefer anti seize so corrosion doesn't become an issue. I check my stuff regularly too.
Great video "Very Informative"with clear easy to follow instructions, and of course all the tricks and tips that the instructions usually don't include lol, also one of the things that set your video apart, the little things that matter the most the Lighting👍 the Audio👍 and the Video👍 quality itself was very good" got to ask though how much do you charge for the installation of this kit or what is the average cost of a basic shop to install this just the install🤔
Thanks for the compliments! As far as pricing, call around and you will see that it is all over the place based on the individual shop and state that you are located in.
Thank you so much for this video man. I had a shop quote me $1,900 to install. After already spending $2,800 on the 2.5" Gamechanger kit, that was a tough pill to swallow. You went into a lot of detail and gave me the confidence to do it myself. Saved me some money and now I know more about my Jeep. Keep up the good work
This is the lift I PLAN for my JKU. YOUR VIDEO WAS STR8 FORWARD INFORMATIVE AND NO NONSENSE ABOUT WHAT SOMEONE CAN EXPECT TO DEAL WITH. I LOOK FORWARD TO INSTALLING MY LIFT ON MY OWN WITH SUCH AN EXCELLENT VIDEO TO GUIDE ME. THANKS FOR THIS. TRULY A BOOST IN CONFIDENCE FOR ME IN THIS ENDEAVOR.
Nice thorough video. On the LCAs, the jam nut end should be on the frame side.
Nice catch on that. I know the jam nut goes up... Must've laid them out backwards and not noticed. Thx!
👍🏼liked and sub.
Installing my 3.5 GC this weekend. Doing ball joints and driveshafts also. Really appreciate your videos. Sure I'll be going back and forth all weekend lol
Great video, and thank you. One thing about the Metalcloak instructions: NOT ONLY DO THEY LEAVE OUT A LOT OF PERTINENT AND IMPORTANT DETAILS, BUT THE SPECS THEY OFFER ARE INCONSISTENT BETWEEN TWO DIFFERENT VERSIONS OF INSTRUCTIONS AVAILABLE ON THEIR WEBSITE. Also having trouble finding TORQUE SPECS and where to use lok tite. I'm mechanically inclined no problem but newer sheet says the control arm should be at 18 3/8" and the older instruction states 18 3/4", it leaves you in a bind because the newer spec doesn't fit. Do I need to "make if fit?" Due to poor instructions, I'm having delay after delay. So again, there are some good RUclipss out here, but big thanks to BFH Garage. Really well done and appreciated.
One thing people need to realize it's that the control arm length is a byproduct of everything being set up right. You want the arms as long as they can be without interfering with anything.
@@TheBFHGarage and THAT makes sense which is why it puzzled me that on the updated instruction, they shortened the control arm length. Thanks very much!
I've been fighting my track bar trying to move the axle over with a ratchet strap for hours. Glad I found this video or else I'd probably will be sitting there trying to move it over enough to get the bolt in.
If the axle is centered under the frame at ride height, then simply adjust the track bar until the bolt goes through. If the axle isn't centered, then a ratchet strap might be needed to get it centered first. But even then, the ratchet holds it in place so you can slide the bolt right through. Glad the video helped you out!
Mine was so easy to change.
Thank you for your video,
I used it as the primary source of how to get it installed. Love my new game changer 3.5 install thanks to you
Glad it helped you out!
Thanks for the video and the nuggets of useful experience. I'm going to get the 2.5" game changer lift for my JK. I have one question, why didn't you choose to use the outboard front lower shock mounts with the rocksport shocks? Metalcloak recommended these to me because of the potential of the shock body binding against the frame when one tire is stuffed and the other is drooped. Have you found that this is not true or necessary?
You have to have the correct backspacing on the wheels or the tire will rub. In this case, the owner was still waiting on his new wheels so we put it off until they arrive.
Every time my jeep needs a fixing and I want to sell it, I watch a jeep video and I'm again happy to own one. Guess I'm not selling mine yet.
Thanks for the video. It was very informative because it's the suspension upgrade I want to put on my JKU Rubicon. Great tips in watching out for the lines as you drop it down. Also quick question? For 5he bump stop, do you recommend the hydraulic and what size would it be. . Great video 👍
That would be for thehe 3.5 lift question regarding the hydraulic of air bump stop. Thanks 👍
I use regular fixed bump stops, not air or hydraulic. I don't do any high speed stuff so I don't think it would benefit me enough for me to prioritize it over other needs. They are very expensive so I would suggest a lot more research to make sure they fit your true needs.
Good video. I wish you had a before and after picture.
I actually had before and after pictures....I'm not sure how I missed adding them to the video! I'll be sure to add on the next one.
Great vid! Got a JL Rubicon. Did you need to swap/upgrade drive shaft? Metal cloak recommended to do so. Wondering if you had any issues w/o upgrading yours.
I haven't installed a Metalcloak lift on a JL yet. If MC is the one recommending it, then I would find out why by calling them directly. The main reason for a new driveshaft length is due to a lift changing the angles or length which sometimes can only be corrected with a new shaft.
Great vid , did you have to change out the stock drive shaft like the website recommended?
It isn't necessary ALL of the time. Cycle your suspension to see if it's needed.
Question: when installing the trackbar, is there a difference between measuring the original and adjusting the new one to the same length versus adjusting the way you demonstrated?
Yes. If you adjust to the original length, then it doesn't account for the new lift height and will cause the axle to be off center. The correct way to do it is to put the Jeep on the ground with the weight on the springs. You must ensure the axle is centered before proceeding. If not, get a ratchet strap and move it until it is centered. Once centered, you simply adjust the track bar until the bolt will easily slide through the hole. No need to measure anything. The length is a byproduct of the trackbar being installed at ride height with the axle centered.
@@TheBFHGarage how can you verify the axle is centered?
@@Darkhorse_Actual Take a measurement between the frame rails above the axle and find the center. Then take measurements on the axle to find the center. Line up the frame center with the axle center. It may take some creative thinking/measuring to get there. You can use a plumb bob or even a laser. Think through the process and you'll see what I mean.
Any specific torque spec (ft lbs) when tightening the bolts back on upper, lower control arms, track bar, etc? I’m running Factory wheels/ AT tires 33” on a ‘21 Rubi JLU for now. Will put on 37”s in a month’s time. Would i need to install the shock mount relocation brackets for now for the fronts or rear?
Torque spec should be based on the bolt, not the lift. If you are re-using factory bolts, torque to the FSM spec. If using a larger bolt, torque to the spec for that bolt. As far as shock relocation brackets, it's not so much about tire size as it is the wheel backspacing. Factory wheels have 6" of backspacing which tucks the wheel under the fender. Find a wheel with less backspacing to run the brackets. As with all things, cycle your suspension to make sure there aren't any interference issues.
JAM NUTS ON CONTROL ARMS SHOULD GO ON THE FRAME NOT AXLE SIDE OF THE CONTROL ARM CORRECT?
Correct. It was corrected awhile back when I first made the video.
Question in order to install the kit you have to have your jeep lifted to 2.5+?
That is the purpose of installing a lift kit, to raise the Jeep. You don't raise it and then add the kit. The kit IS the lift. Hope this helps.
Nice job!
Nice video
Are these the regular rocksport shocks or the long(er) versions
Regular
Need the Metalcloak tie rod and drag link too, another $800 though.
Welcome to Jeeps!
How much do you bye 3.5 inch lift ?
Go to Metalcloak website. All prices are there.
Are we going to comment and state the lower control arms on the front were installed wrong.
That was already addressed and they've already been corrected.
Is this long arm or short ?
Short
@@TheBFHGarage I appreciate all your hard work u explain everything that is needed your very. Professional if I was to have work done on my Jeep jk I would bring it to you unfortunately I’m in New York I believe your in Colorado
Thanks for the kind words!
upgrade all the bolts for tighter lift
I'd be curious to hear your explanation of this. 🤔🧐
spacers for back spacing?
On this one, yes.
That’s not rust ! I wish that was rust in NY.
Did you use anti seize for control arm bolts?
Some aftermarket companies say to use loctite while others suggest anti seize. I prefer anti seize so corrosion doesn't become an issue. I check my stuff regularly too.
@@TheBFHGarage I’ve always had that debate of which one is the best one. Thanks for the reply